two glasses of white wine on table overlooking California wine country on sunny, cloudless day (Shutterstock)
After 12+ months of pandemic living, we could all use a fresh start right about now. How about relocating to Healdsburg for a $10,000-per-month job, rent-free living and a 12-month supply of free wine?
Sonoma County winery Murphy-Goode has launched a four-month-long nationwide search for one person to “live out their ultimate dream job” in Wine Country. There are no required qualifications for “A Really Goode Job,” as the winery calls the new position. Instead, Murphy-Goode wants applicants to create a short video resume in which they explain their ideal role in the wine industry and what they would bring to the winery. The video should be uploaded to the application page by June 30, 2021.
While people from all over the U.S. can apply for the position, the winery is welcoming local applicants, too.
“Wine Country locals are the heartbeat of our community; an eclectic, diverse group with a variety of skills,” said Rick Tigner, CEO of Jackson Family Wines, the family-owned wine company that includes Murphy-Goode Winery. “Tell us about your favorite places and activities as a local; I’m sure we will be able to relate,” he said.
The Murphy-Goode gig starts this August and runs through July 2022. But, if everything works out well, the lucky employee might be able to continue working for the winery.
The new hire will spend the first 90 days on the job shadowing winemaker Dave Ready Jr. and will then be tasked with a variety of assignments depending on their interests, including “developing working relationships across functions of the winery” and “effectively promoting Murphy-Goode wines through various channels and events.”
During their employment, the winery will work with the new employee to help them pivot their career and choose their path in the wine industry.
“Our job is to help guide their path in the wine business, support their passions and provide a platform to achieve their dream job,” said Tigner. “The job could include anything from winemaking to viticulture, hospitality, culinary, digital marketing, and beyond. The sky’s the limit!”
Murphy-Goode ran a similar campaign in 2009. The winner that year, Hardy Wallace, landed the job by creating a viral marketing campaign and became a winemaker in Napa after his time at Murphy-Goode. He now operates Dirty and Rowdy Family Winery with his wife, Kate, and their friends Matt and Amy Richardson.
If you’re looking for a new career, love wine and like to live life “one sip at a time,” apply here. Job applicants must be 21 years of age or older and must be authorized to work in the U.S. For more information and tips on how to make your application stand out, click through the gallery above.
Prosciutto di Parma and housemade mozzarella on housemade focaccia served alongside Caesar salad at Citti Cafe in Kenwood. (Chris Hardy / Sonoma Magazine)
We’ve heard some super-sad news from Sebastopol: Food Mechanic is closing. The cafe, owned by Shane Dykhuis and Anne Zuelke, served healthy soups and salads, along with some darn good cookies and collagen “jigglers,” made with juice and beef gelatin. To say that their smoked chicken salad was my very, very favorite in the whole wide world is not an exaggeration. On one of my hard days as I worked to get food to first responders and evacuees during the Kincade fire, that salad pretty much saved my bacon and my sanity.
“We’ve muscled through major challenges like wildfires and the ongoing pandemic, but these slowed down our momentum during critical growth periods and we’ve simply run out of time and resources to continue on in this capacity,” the couple said on Facebook in an announcement about the closure.
I’m heartbroken that they’ll be moving on, but we hope they’ll pop up soon in another spot. Open until March 26, 980 Gravenstein Hwy., Sebastopol, foodmechanic.com.
Madrona Manor makeover
The historic Healdsburg mansion and its restaurant will be closed for several months for a remodel after being acquired by an investment group headed by designer Jay Jeffers of St. Helena, Kyle Jeffers and Cory Schisler (see renderings of the remodel in the above gallery). What we’re interested in is the Michelin-starred restaurant run by Chef Jesse Mallgren, who will stay on when the property reopens under a new name, The Madrona. The restaurant will be a more casual spot than its former white-tablecloth incarnation, Jay Jeffers said.
Cafe Citti update
After months of waiting, Cafe Citti has received its much-anticipated building permit and hopes to open soon in its new location at 2792 Fourth St. in Santa Rosa. Luca and Linda Citti, owners of the popular Italian eatery, said last fall they planned to move for several reasons, including the need for renovations at the Kenwood building, power outages and the Glass fire that burned through parts of Kenwood.
Finally open
Of course, the biggest news is that Sonoma County has reached the much-anticipated red tier, which means restaurants can have indoor dining at 25% of their capacity. While we’re still quite happy outdoors in this lovely weather, it’s nice to know that we’ll be able to head inside — especially after getting our second vaccine dose!
Prescribed fire is used to thin the forest floor in the hills above West Dry Creek Nov. 29, 2020. The Walbridge fire burned very close to the area of the prescribed fire. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
After a more than a century of no-fire-shall-pass land management, the movement to reintroduce small-scale controlled burns has taken a promising hold in Sonoma County. More landowners than ever are teaming up with ‘burn bosses,’ scientists, and a growing corps of enthusiastic volunteers to restore ‘good fire’ to the landscape — and make us safer and more resilient for the wildfires to come.
Che Casul, a seventh-generation Sonoma County rancher, badly wanted to see his woods on fire. With three others, he walked along the edge of a 33-acre patch of oak woodlands on his family’s Bodega Highway ranch. They carried drip torches filled with diesel fuel and gasoline. As they paced their way through the forest, they released small flaming droplets meant to coalesce into a wider curtain of flames creeping along the earthen floor — a prescribed fire.
But it was a damp December day, with light rain falling by afternoon across this corner of southwestern Sonoma County, so the flames that did spread were subdued, producing a blue smoke that hovered just above the ground, swirling around the two dozen men and women clad in yellow firefighter gear and spread throughout the woodland.
Casul, 34, had invited the firefighters onto the property, part of a controlled deployment of fire that had been in the works many months earlier — as catastrophic wildfires once again overtook California, burning a record 4.2 million acres, including more than 290,000 acres of Sonoma and Napa counties.
For Casul and the team of firefighters and volunteers assembled on his 213-acre spread just inland from the Sonoma Coast, conditions were less combustible, partly by design.
Rancher Che Casul. (Kent Porter)
Casul employs a variety of tools to reduce wildfire risk on his ranch. Prescribed burning is just one of them. The weather has its say, too.
“Honestly, for me it didn’t burn as hot as I wanted it to,” he later said.
Yet, after a full survey of the treated acreage, Casul professed to being amazed by the skillful approach with which the crews had targeted the most obvious hazard fuels: dead trees, towering stick dens for wood rats, and the limbs hanging down from oak and bay trees — dangerous for their ability to draw flames up into the canopy and cast embers that spark more wildfire.
“Even in the most challenging conditions to do a burn, they were able to burn epic amounts of these big trees and big rats’ nests and big jackpots,” says Casul, who carries his cheery demeanor above a set of broad shoulders on a stocky frame — one rooted in a family that has raised cattle and other livestock in this part of the county since 1851. Across Bodega Highway from the family ranch stands the historic one-room Watson School, built by Casul’s great-great-great-great-grandfather.
In a sense, the prescribed fire lit on the ranch that winter day—one of four controlled burns happening simultaneously across the county on Dec. 11 — is part of another tradition that landowners, fire officials, local tribes and ecologists are reviving to blunt the rising risk of rampant wildfires in a warming climate and provide other landscape and cultural benefits.
Cal Fire Division Chief Ben Nicholls, who oversees Sonoma County, says it’s a must-have campaign — a way to create defensive buffers around and between developed areas and establish strategic fire breaks in increasingly fire-prone regions like the Mark West Creek corridor north of Santa Rosa.
That’s where the wind-whipped Tubbs fire raced out of the canyon in October 2017 and into flatland neighborhoods, leveling thousands of homes on both sides of Highway 101. Some of the same ridges dividing Napa and
Sonoma counties proved vulnerable again last summer, when in a matter of hours, the Glass fire sped west over the hills and into Santa Rosa, wreaking more destruction.
“When millions of acres burn and the skies turn orange for days on end, clearly we need to do something different,” Nicholls says.
A growing movement
Harnessing wildfire for human use is nothing new. Across California and much of the western United States, native people have used flames to clear out cluttered forests, promote plant growth and flush game.
But after more than a century of fire suppression on public and private lands, with sometimes disastrous consequences, the push for greater use of “good fire” has grown stronger in recent decades, especially in the face of a new, more explosive era of mega fires.
Civilian volunteers are enlisting in large numbers for prescribed fire training, seeking a proactive alternative to waiting in dread for the next major blowup.
And Cal Fire, the state’s forestry and firefighting agency, has committed to putting more controlled fire on the landscape, and making it easier for landowners and community organizations to do so, as well.
The movement may not stop the next Tubbs fire — or the sequels of last summer, the Glass and LNU Complex fires that rampaged across Wine Country. But it might at least reduce the intensity of the flames hurtling helter skelter toward communities in their path.
The movement also offers a choice, given changing conditions in the western United States that experts say mean fuel-loaded areas are going to burn eventually, one way or another.
Cal Fire Battalion Chief Marshall Turbeville. (Kent Porter)
“Do we want to burn it on our terms, where we can?” says Cal Fire Battalion Chief Marshall Turbeville, who also heads the Northern Sonoma County Fire Protection District. “Or do we want it to burn during a wildfire?”
It’s taken generations to reach this point, with stiff political and institutional resistance at nearly every step. And the campaign still faces a wide set of obstacles, among them the calculated risks taken when employing a force this powerful across a wide swath of the nation’s most populated state.
Cost is another. Gov. Gavin Newsom’s 2021-22 budget proposal includes an additional $1 billion toward wildfire resilience and forest health programs. Among them are efforts to widen the network of fire and fuel breaks, where vegetation is strategically thinned or eliminated to help slow a wildfire’s advance.
To treat that acreage, manual and mechanical work can run up to $4,000 per acre, meaning it would cost up to $2 billion — twice Newsom’s entire fire prevention budget for the state — to address all of the more than 500,000 acres of coniferous forest and oak woodlands covering Sonoma County.
“The scale of what we need to do is not going to happen overnight. It’s going to take years, even generations. This is the biggest issue facing our generation.”
~ Cal Fire Battalion Chief Marshall Turbeville
Prescribed burning is cheaper, and though nothing on the order of a countywide plan is in the works, Sonoma is emerging as a hot spot for the revival of the smaller-scale prescribed burns that together aim to reduce a century of accumulated fuels. Fire agencies gearing up to put more flames on the land and new cooperative efforts are gaining steam, drawing volunteers eager to help.
“We’re lucky in Sonoma County that we have a lot of talented, creative people that are interested in this,” said ranch manager David Katz, who is working to plan some burning for the 1,600-acre ranch he runs near Stewarts Point on the Sonoma coast.
Katz, a former executive director of the Sonoma Land Trust, says he’s particularly taken with the ability of grassroots organizations and local leaders to engage “a wide cross section of people — everybody from Cal Fire to the livestock industry, to forest owners, to ecological and conservation activists, on down. And there’s a bunch of forums and lots of positive intervention among these parties who, in the past, were at loggerheads in dealing with some of this stuff.”
Not a ‘one and done’ solution
For landowners, hosting a beneficial burn is not nearly so easy as calling up firefighters and lighting a match. While private landowners have wide latitude to conduct beneficial burns on their own property between the declared end of wildfire season and May 1 of a given year, they still must obtain an air quality permit and bear responsibility on rare occasions when a problem might occur.
Burns conducted by Cal Fire, with a Cal Fire permit, or by public agencies, also require time-consuming biological and archaeological reviews of the area before they are authorized.
There are bird nesting seasons, weather variations and shortened winter days to consider when planning burns, as well.
Some areas, particularly where wooded or forested landscapes are concerned, may require substantial pre-fire thinning and pruning work before any flames are ignited.
It’s also not a “one and done” solution, either. Plants regrow.
“It’s an easy idea—not an easy fix,” said Tony Nelson, the Sonoma Valley program manager for the Sonoma Land Trust.
Prescribed burning has a long history in Sonoma County, where tribes have long used flames to manage and maintain diverse landscapes for food production and other beneficial uses — until European settlers quashed those traditions.
Father Jose Altimira, who founded the California mission in Sonoma in 1823, wrote in his diary of seeing burned and blackened hillsides on his passage through the North Bay and Sonoma Valley.
The practice continued in places with ranchers, who used flames to clear brush and improve rangeland.
Bob Cooley, whose 19,000-acre family ranch straddles the Sonoma-Mendocino county line, hosted some of the earliest, large-scale Cal Fire burns in the region a few decades back. He figures he was probably 5 years old when his dad, Crawford, had him running up and down the canyons all day long with a drip cannon, lighting small burns.
“It was one of our summer activities,” just as it had been for his father, Bob Cooley said. The family and a few friends would burn as much as 4,000 acres before they were done.
But prescribed fire still remained largely unfamiliar to the masses for most of the 20th century, even anathema to generations raised under the tutelage of Smokey Bear and policies that called for putting out flames as quickly as possible wherever they appeared.
Even amid mounting evidence of fire’s sometimes beneficial role, it took decades for government agencies and fire professionals – what the Nature Conservancy’s fire training coordinator Jeremy Bailey calls the “fire industrial complex” — to get on board, and then only in a limited way.
When prescribed fire did occur in California, for many years it tended to be federal agencies doing specific projects focused primarily on ecological benefits in a very narrow, siloed fashion, says Lenya Quinn-Davidson, Eureka area fire advisor for the UC Cooperative Extension.
As a result, mass accumulations of ready forest fuel have become both a practical and political problem in the age of extreme fire behavior and increasingly frequent and destructive firestorms across the west. Recall former President Donald Trump slamming California for poor forest management as wildfire raged last year across the state. A counter chorus was quick to note that nearly half of the state, and much of the land then ablaze, is under federal ownership.
A new alliance, a shift in attitudes
As Quinn-Davidson recalls, however, it took inspiration in the form of regular people in “blue jeans and cowboy hats” conducting huge burns in Nebraska to kickstart the first of a growing network of grassroots organizations that are now driving the return of fire to a wider span of the state, Sonoma County among them.
She co-founded that pioneering group, Humboldt County Prescribed Burn Association, three years ago, paving the way for a dozen others. They include the Sonoma-based Good Fire Alliance, one of several robust collaborations built around the North Bay’s surplus of homegrown and university-trained experts, ecological stewards, nonprofit land managers, and fire service partners.
The loosely organized Good Fire Alliance provides opportunities for landowners to learn how to manage vegetation and to get help conducting prescribed burns — from both volunteer crews and one another, says Jared Childress, a Sonoma County prescribed burns specialist who was instrumental in its creation.
Landowners who want to host a broadcast burn in their pasture or on a brush-covered hillside, or even incinerate piles of old wood and branches collected from a wooded area or shaded fuel break, can put out the word to folks willing to come help out on a given day.
The alliance allows volunteers to gain field experience, many of them through the Fire Forward program operated by Audubon Canyon Ranch, a 60-year-old environmental conservation and education nonprofit that owns land preserves in Sonoma and Marin counties. ACR also is a founding member of the Bay Area Prescribed Fire Council, an umbrella group for organizations collaborating on controlled burns.
“If we’re actually going to see a real mindset change, we need to be doing this where people are, and have it be front and center where people are aware and learning about it and experiencing it.”
~ Fire ecologist Sasha Berleman
Firefighter and fire ecologist Sasha Berleman. (Kent Porter)
One of the hardest-charging leaders in the local movement is Sasha Berleman, a 31-year-old wildland firefighter with a doctorate in wildfire science from UC Berkeley. She leads ACR’s Fire Forward, which is spreading the gospel and capacity for prescribed burns among landowners and everyday recruits alike.
In a short span of time, Berleman’s program has helped Sonoma County become a leader in community-based fire — a not altogether predictable role, given the area’s large suburban population and mixed pattern of land ownership. Many others in her field flock to wilder locales in the west.
“For many years there was a very strong statement being made that you cannot do prescribed burning in places that have people, and you can only do prescribed burning way out in the wilderness where no one can smell it or see it,” Berleman says. “That doesn’t seem like a real solution. If we’re actually going to see a real mindset change, we need to be doing this where people are and have it be front and center where people are aware and learning about it and experiencing it.”
Berleman has taken the lead on proactive burns around the region and, in a big step, last year worked with Turbeville and fellow Cal Fire officials to arrange for more than three dozen trained volunteers to rotate through mop-up duty on the 55,209-acre Walbridge fire in west Sonoma County while attached to the Northern Sonoma County Fire Protection District’s rare fuels reduction crew, a model many hope can be replicated elsewhere.
Berleman says the shift in societal attitudes toward prescribed fire has been “really drastic” over the past several years, but “exponential” in the past 12 months.
“Just in 2015, if I told someone I was a fire ecologist, they thought I was an arsonist or a pyromaniac,” she says. “But now when I tell someone what I do, they can’t help but lecture me on the value of prescribed burning in California.”
200,000 of 1 million acres burned
Berleman’s colleague, Brian Peterson, a fire ecologist with Fire Forward, says he likes to bring observers to prescribed fires so they can see how organized and safe it is when conducted properly. He calls it the “aha moment.”
“Quite often, a prescribed burn is boring,” he says.
Participants using fuel torches paint flames in a band or “black line” around the edges of the area to be burned, or use fire roads or other wide areas as borders, walking in staggered lines as they drag flames into the wind to slow the spread. Sometimes they paint circles of flames on the ground around a tree to keep encroaching fire away and, on a slope, burn downhill so the flames burn at low intensity.
Berleman likens fire on a hillside to a flaming match, burning slowly down when held upright, but exploding in a fiery flash when inverted.
“We manage a fire for short flame lengths by starting at the top and moving down,” she said. “We’re not letting that fire build energy. We’re forcing that fire to move the direction we want it to burn.”
The program she and Peterson lead provides blended online and in-person training that offers participants federal certification in basic wildland firefighting, qualifying them to participate in prescribed burns.
To date, 180 people have completed the program through Fire Forward, with 90 more scheduled to finish in March, and another 85 on a waiting list, as more and more people learn of the training and sign up. Since last fall, all of the two-day training sessions have sold out.
The program draws people who work in land management, conservation, environmental stewardship and fire science – as well as people with desk jobs seeking a way to make a difference and assume shared responsibility for the future.
“If we want California to be a habitable place for human beings, we need to engage with the environment around us in a more active way,” says one alum, Santa Rosa resident Peter Nelson, a professor of ethnic studies and environmental science at UC Berkeley. Nelson is also a tribal member of the Federated Indians of Graton Rancheria, and notes that California tribes have worked to varying degrees to hang onto their traditional use of fire.
The Central Coast Amah Mutsun formed a nonprofit land trust and job corps focused on indigenous land management and cultural burning. The Kashia Band of Pomo Indians in Sonoma County is similarly working to reintroduce fire on its tribal lands, including a nearly 700-acre coastal property acquired with the help of conservation groups in 2015.
Nina Hapner, the tribe’s director of environmental planning, says there remain among Kashia elders memories of cultural burning but that there is still some fear associated with fire among newer generations, though that is changing in the wake of recent disasters.
She notes that the Meyers fire near Fort Ross slowed last year when it encountered an area that had been burned proactively.
“When you haven’t really been able to utilize [fire] as a tool, people dismiss it. You kind of just file it away,” Hapner says. “But now the opportunity is there.”
More burning also is coming through the Sonoma Valley Wildlands Collaborative, a group of six conservation and land management organizations that oversee 18,000 acres of open space.
The organization includes Audubon Canyon Ranch, California State Parks, Sonoma County Agricultural Preservation and Open Space District, Sonoma County Regional Parks, the Sonoma Land Trust, and the Sonoma Mountain Ranch Preservation Foundation, which combined manage 11 sites in the region. The group came together after many of those properties were charred by the Nuns fire, one of the series of historic and deadly 2017 wildfires, including the Tubbs, that erupted around the North Bay amid hurricane force winds, killing 24 people and destroying 5,300 homes in Sonoma County.
The firestorm served as a tragic pivot point in the public and policymakers’ understanding of the nature of wildfire in the modern west. The years since have only driven that point home.
Wildfires have now charred about 200,000 acres of Sonoma County’s roughly 1 million acres just since 2017, Cal Fire’s Nicholls said. In Napa and Lake counties, the share of recently burned ground is even higher.
“We’ve had at least three years now where we’ve had wildfires that have touched everybody that lives in Sonoma County,” Turbeville said. “I would assume almost everybody knows somebody who lost a house or was affected.”
Creating defensive barriers
The most coordinated effort to reintroduce fire in Sonoma County is taking place in Sonoma Valley, where the Glass fire besieged rural neighborhoods in late September 2020, burning more than 330 homes, including 34 inside Santa Rosa city limits.
Already, a $1 million Cal Fire grant is helping to fund fire breaks and fuel reduction work on sites governed by the wildland collaborative, much of it quite costly hand work, says Nelson, with the Sonoma Land Trust.
The collaborative is working with Cal Fire on a 10-year vegetation management plan that will include about 200 acres of prescribed burning a year across the agency sites involved. Outside of that arrangement, Audubon Canyon Ranch’s Bouverie Preserve off Highway 12 has hosted prescribed fires in different areas three times since 2017, spanning more than 60 acres. Across the highway, Sonoma Valley Regional Park has hosted at least two burns, spanning 50 acres.
Nicholls says the idea is to create a crescent-shaped buffer from about Hood Mountain to Sonoma Mountain that would help stall a wildfire trying to cross Highway 12, shielding a critical travel route, while also giving firefighting crews a place to operate from, should wildfire arrive.
Further north, up to 400 acres of the 3,200-acre Pepperwood Preserve northeast of Santa Rosa is slated for controlled burns over the next year or two, as is 265 acres of the 5,600-acre Jenner Headlands Preserve on the Sonoma Coast.
In an ideal world, Nicholls and Turbeville say they wish they could substantially scale up burning, ringing communities on the edge of wildlands with fire-treated landscape and creating broad barriers across windy ridgetops north of Santa Rosa, Sonoma Valley, and Cazadero, for instance, or tying together large, undeveloped properties that could slow or curb flames before they reach homes.
“I don’t know if Santa Rosa agrees with me,” Turbeville says, “but, like areas near Fountaingrove or Montecito or Wikiup, managing the wildlands that abut residences in the urban development, to basically create a buffer.”
The two officials highlight strategic ridgetops around the county, including Mt. Barham at the top of the Calistoga Grade, above St. Helena Road, which could be part of a defensive barrier if another fire were to come across Mark West Canyon.
Turbeville also talks of extending existing fire roads, ridgetop burns and bulldozer lines in wildfire scars, to take advantage of what’s already available.
Nicholls cited regional parks and other protected spaces as natural starting points, saying a burn is slated for Shiloh Ranch Regional Park east of Windsor as the beginning of an effort to “connect the dots between large landholdings” from there to Pepperwood to Calistoga Road.
“The scale of what we need to do is not going to happen overnight. It’s going to take years, even generations,” said Turbeville. “This is the biggest issue facing our generation.”
And that issue is not reserved for firefighters or volunteers alone.
Tom Knecht, the “prefire” division chief for Cal Fire’s six-county Sonoma-Lake-Napa Unit, says even with his agency’s pledge to increase the scale and pace of its landscape work, there’s a role for everyone – whether it’s ensuring defensible space around their own homes and working out ways to harden their home construction, or collaborating with a prescribed fire association to reduce fuel around their community.
“What I see in my career is no one wants to do anything until a fire runs through their neighborhood, and then all of a sudden, people say, ‘Oh my God, Cal Fire, what are you going to do for me next time?’ “Cal Fire can’t do it all, even with all of our stakeholders. We can’t do it all,” Knecht says.
A sense of purpose and hope
Since taking over the family ranch in west county after college, Che Casul has looked for every opportunity to mitigate fire risks. He grazes shaggy Angus and Scottish Highland cattle because one breed keeps down the grass, the other, the brush.
He also has 100 head of free-range goats whose appetite for anything under five feet high may be one reason it was so difficult to get a fire going in the oak woodlands last winter. Still, those woods remain too densely packed with bay trees and Douglas firs to walk through freely, the way he did as a child.
From that same era, he remembers wandering along beside his grandfather, who used a match and a shovel to set fire to his pastures, regenerating them for the following year.
It took until this past year for Casul to host his first prescribed fire.
Several initial attempts were called off because it was too hot or dry or windy. When December 11 came, it was a bit too wet, but the results were still gratifying.
“If we want California to be a habitable place for human beings, we need to engage with the environment around us in a more active way.”
~ Environmental science professor Peter Nelson
So Casul is now one of Berleman’s adherents, planning with his wife, Angela, to take the basic wildfire training through Fire Forward this year.
As chief executive of newly renamed nonprofit Circuit Riders — formerly the Center for Social and Environmental Stewardship — he’s also been keen to promote fuels management through the organization’s vocational training and work programs.
Casul says there are no fire fuels contractors in the county right now, and he imagines young people developing expertise and finding rewarding careers that satisfy an urgent community need.
“A lot of these pieces can fit hand in glove,” he says. “It creates a healthier ecology and it makes our community safer, and it puts money in the pockets of at-risk youth who are learning new skills.”
Turbeville makes a similar point, noting that it may take generations to catch up after allowing so many years of fuel to accumulate.
In northern Sonoma County, he oversaw five burns spanning about 170 acres last fall, until his crew just ran out of days. They were at it again come January.
“I still tell people that my dream job is to go to work and stop a fire. Or go to work and start a fire,” he said.
Berleman says that her line of work runs the risk of bearing a message to people who do not want to hear it.
But in Sonoma County, she’s found a ready audience, one in which a growing number of people understand that a landscape under threat requires the stewardship of those who evolved with it.
“There are so many problems in the world that feel unsolvable, and this one feels like there’s such a great solution right there if we just seize it,” Berleman says. “In a world full of problems, it gives me a sense of purpose and a hope for a better future in this one sliver, and I think we’re seeing a lot of the community feel the same way.”
Flames chew through thick forest floor duff during a prescribed burn in the hills above West Dry Creek. (Kent Porter)
Barriers to Broader Burning
How to scale up to put more prescribed fire on the ground?
That’s the dilemma facing experts and volunteers, as the state pushes to employ more controlled burns to combat increasingly extreme fire danger.
Such burns are an efficient, inexpensive option in many cases, compared to labor-intensive manual thinning and mechanical treatments, which can cost $2,500 to $4,000 an acre and up, depending if equipment like a wood chipper or pile burning is needed.
An equivalent per-acre cost for prescribed fire is hard to come by as weather, topography, fuel type, and a variety of other factors enter in. Manual work may be required in advance of some while other fires may be accomplished with a $250 air district permit and lunch for a crew of hearty volunteers.
But where larger obstacles exist — say liability or insurance, or even available workforce — Cal Fire, California’s chief firefighting agency, has pledged to work to reduce barriers.
That includes streamlined permitting for public agencies or other qualifying entities, increased training opportunities, and new certification standards for “burn bosses” — the individuals who take command of prescribed fires.
Lenya Quinn-Davidson of the UC Cooperative Extension and Jeremy Bailey, director of fire training for the Nature Conservancy’s North American Fire Team, say a critical hurdle would be eliminated if California adopted a gross negligence standard for prescribed burning liability, like some other states have.
There’s also need for providers to develop insurance options for certified burn bosses — a kind of insurance for which, so far, there’s just not been much demand, says Quinn-Davidson.
“We need all hands on deck,” says Quinn-Davidson. “If we’re really going to scale up this work, we need to be lifting up and funding and supporting anyone who wants to be involved in this work. We need to really be thinking about, ‘How can we get the most people trained and involved and feeling supported?’”
Tour Sonoma County with dining editor Heather Irwin in honor of the richly filmed and mouthwateringly inspiring Netflix show, Taco Chronicles.
Most people find it hard to imagine that I didn’t try my first taco until the age of about 30 — and even then with much trepidation and disbelief. Those tiny corn tortillas had no business being unfried and doubled up like that, I thought. It didn’t contain cumin-overloaded seasoning from a packet. It didn’t even have hamburger or sour cream. One bite, however, of a simple carnitas soft taco with onions and fresh cilantro, a little dab of hot sauce and — hold-the-guacamole, this is a taco?!
Even years later, after eating thousands of tasty tacos from throughout California, I still don’t fully understood the subtleties of this ancient, beloved street food of Mexico. But I’ve made progress after devouring two seasons of Netflix’s series The Taco Chronicles, which schooled me in the culture and history of al pastor and lesser-known local taco fillers like suadero (fatty beef) and cabrito (goat), buche (pork stomach) and cabeza (head).
So whether you end up going on a Taco Chronicles adventure of your own, exploring out-of-the-way taquerias specializing in barbacoa, or you just want to challenge yourself to get out of a burrito rut, there’s a lifetime of tacos out there just waiting to be discovered. And you don’t even have to wait until #tacotuesday. Click through the above gallery for details.
Bear Republic: Two locations for great burgers and brews, but we’re especially fond of the lakeside tables in Rohnert Park. Cheesy poutine and the signature Black and Blue Burger slathered with blue cheese and bacon remoulade. 5000 Roberts Lake Road, Rohnert Park or 345 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, bearrepublic.com. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Pubs aren’t usually known for their world-class cuisine, but we’ve found 15 Sonoma County pubs (along with bars and beer gardens) that go way beyond microwaved chicken fingers and chili. Serving everything from fish and chips to Brie and pear crostini, there’s plenty of great food that will also lay a solid base for a night of revelry.
This may be Wine Country but the green beer will be flowing on March 17. Click through the above gallery to find out where to party like the Irish this St. Patrick’s Day.
Stunning vineyard views and sweeping coastal vistas aren’t difficult to find in Sonoma County, but dining much above ground level is a rarity due in large part to building height restrictions in our bucolic retreat.
But there are two places you can savor a meal while aloft — at the new Montage Resort’s Olive Terrace and at the Rooftop Bar at Harmon Guest House.
Ultra luxe
Stepping onto the Montage Resort’s sweeping patio perched high above the Alexander Valley is a jaw-dropping, showstopping adventure that requires at least one oooh and ahhhh no matter how fancy you are.
Overlooking hundreds of acres of undeveloped land, the ultra-luxury resort’s Olive Terrace is every bit the ultimate Wine Country destination, with fire pits and cozy rocking chairs and high-topped bar tables, but also with a multimillion-dollar treetop view. You’re in rarefied air here.
Hazel Hill, which remains closed to indoor diners, also has a cantilevered dining room to enjoy later. But for now, you can experience the high-end restaurant for breakfast, lunch and dinner or the more casual Scout Field Bar for cocktails from mixologist Scott Beattie and a quick bite.
Lunch or evening cocktails are best bets for a meetup with friends you’ve only seen Zoom for the past year.
Meyer lemon tart at Scout Field Bar at the Montage in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)Madrone Mule cocktail at Scout Field Bar at the Montage in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin / Sonoma Magazine)
Don’t Miss
French Onion En Croute, $18: Sherry (along with beef broth) is the magic ingredient so often missing in ho-hum onion soup. Plenty of caramelized onions, not so much Gruyere as to become a choke-hazard and a lovely raft of a crouton.
Journeyman Charcuterie, $20: Healdsburg’s own aged meats with pickled olives and mustard. The bonus add-on is warm bread.
Heirloom Carrots, $16: Sturdy but not crunchy is the true measure of good carrots. Dressed with horseradish, mâche, buckwheat and coconut yogurt, they’re close-up ready.
Wagyu Beef Tartare, $22 (Hazel Hill): The best dish we tried. Beautiful bits of raw Wagyu beef with garlic chips and bone marrow toast.
Fern Canyon, $18: If you’re a whiskey fan, don’t miss this very grown-up cocktail with Suntory Toki Japanese Whiskey, Campari, Vya Sweet Vermouth, Tiki Bitters — and if you’re lucky — a twist of fresh yuzu from Scott Beattie’s yard.
Miss
Fusilli “Bolognese,” $24: The menu includes plenty of vegan and gluten-free dishes. But this vegetarian version of a a much-loved meat dish is infused with too much basil and nutritional yeast.
Hazel Hill and Scout Field Bar are open to the public, but reservations are highly suggested. And I’m suggesting you not arrive looking shlumpy. Also clean out your car because some poor valet is going to have to park it. 100 Montage Way, Healdsburg, 707-979-9000, montagehotels.com/healdsburg
The Rooftop Bar at Harmon Guest House in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Harmon Guest House)
Moving On Up
Four stories above downtown Healdsburg, the Rooftop Bar is one of those perfect spots with just a handful of tables, ridiculously good cocktails and a curated list of dishes overseen by Thomas Mulligan and Francisco “Poncho” Alverez, both alums of sister restaurants Spoonbar and Barndiva.
Housed in the newish Harmon Guest House, it’s an intimate space with a view of Fitch Mountain and the goings-on below. A warm fire pit and table-side heaters keep things cozy as the sun sets. The rooftop is open 3 – 8 p.m. Monday through Friday and 1 – 8 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. It’s first come, first served and no reservations are taken. Insider tip: Monday night is $1 oyster night.
Blue Rose, with gin, blueberries, a tart shrub and rose water at Harmon Guest House’s Rooftop. (Heather Irwin / Sonoma Magazine)
Best Bets
Shishito Peppers, $12: Enough for a crowd, these charred, finger-length peppers are rarely hot. Lemon aioli and smoked dashi ponzu add bright flavor, accented by brine-y wisps of bonito flakes.
Warm Crab Roll, $28: Stuffed with Dungeness crab and hugged by a soft brioche roll, this is an excellent (if slightly petite) must-have before the season ends. Light basil pesto adds to, rather than overpowers, the sweet fresh crab meat. Served with shoestring fries.
Lobster Arancini, $18: Fried balls of generous chunks of lobster and creamy risotto.
Rooftop Taco, $8: A little steep for a taco, but the beer-battered sole is light and flaky, and creamy chipotle cabbage brings it all together.
Cocktails range simple to over-the-top, but we were most impressed by the Herbal ($14) with Sonoma Brothers rye, genmaicha tea, mint, lime and rosemary thyme syrup. A total summer sipper. Also try the Blue Rose, with gin, blueberries, a tart shrub and rose water. Aromatic and lovely. General Manager Ryan Birrer has selected a fascinating list of small-production wines.
Chicken Parm Vodka Bomb at the Subhuman Sandwich Shop pop-up in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat
When Dungeness crab season rolls around, we’re game for every kind we can get our hands on. Most recently we found the Crabby Boi ($21) at the Subhuman Sandwich Shop pop-up at Jam’s Joy Bungalow in Sebastopol. It’s a mess of sweet picked crab with just a hint of sesame oil (who knew that was such a great match?), earthy pea shoots and a light grapefruit turmeric vinaigrette on a toasted potato roll.
Expensive? Yes. But worth it. Like August tomatoes or June strawberries, it’s a once-a-year treat worth seeking out.
Our other favorite at Subhuman is the slightly intimidating missile of a sub, the Chicken Parm Vodka Bomb ($16), with a crisp breaded cutlet, creamy vodka sauce, creamy burrata oozing from the bun and spicy arugula.
This week’s inaugural event sold out quickly, but watch for more sightings on Instagram at @subhumansandwichshop or Jams Joy Bungalow on Facebook.
More dining news
Congrats to Chef Liza Hinman of Spinster Sisters for inclusion in “A Place At The Table,” a stunning (and free) virtual cookbook from fellows of the James Beard Foundation’s Women’s Entrepreneurial Leadership Program. Download it at jamesbeard.org/blog/a-place-at-the-table. Hinman’s recipe for asparagus salad with whipped ricotta and pistachio vinaigrette had us drooling for this lovely seasonal salad. Hopefully when the restaurant reopens we’ll be able to taste it in person.
Flavortown Kitchen is a delivery-only comfort food concept operating out of existing restaurants. Featuring a lineup of fried, cheesy and saucy dishes like Jalapeno Pig Poppers, Cheesesteak Egg Rolls, Buffalo Wings, burgers (with Donkey sauce, natch), his Chicken Guy! fried chicken sandwiches (oh yeah, that’s another business), chicken Alfredo, mac and cheese, fried pickles and cheesecake topped with potato chips, pretzels, and fudge sauce, it’s heartburn-inducing just thinking about it.
The ghost kitchen concept — running a virtual restaurant that’s delivery-only — has been a popular pandemic business concept that eschews the brick and mortar for a shared commercial kitchen that can do any type of cuisine.
Here’s the catch: No news of a Flavortown Kitchen in Sonoma County at this point. Many of the “borrowed” kitchens are at chains like Bucco di Beppo. But hey, Guy, we hear Tex Wasabi’s is still available…
Many wineries release new vintages in spring, so it’s a great time to visit one of these local spots. Given current public health considerations, you should always call ahead to make tasting reservations, but don’t let that slow you down, as same-day appointments are often available.
Featured: Benziger Family Winery
The Benziger family migrated from New York state more than 40 years ago, focused on growing and producing premium wines in a prime spot on the shoulder of Sonoma Mountain in Glen Ellen, near Jack London State Historic Park. The Benzigers began farming with conventional techniques but by 1995 had switched over entirely to biodynamic practices.
The Benzigers use creative crop rotation and composting, along with natural minerals and herbs, to maintain vineyards that are healthy and chemical free. The estate was officially certified as a biodynamic farm 20 years ago.
Outdoor seated tastings ($30) last about 45 minutes and draw selections from across the winery’s portfolio. A 90-minute private estate tour and tasting ($60) includes an in-depth exploration of the biodynamic farm practices. The family is known for its Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and a large selection of red blends. A new release, the 2020 North Coast Rosé, will likely be on the tasting menu this month, or might be offered as a special splash, says senior marketing manager Carley Burns. “This wine is crisp and well balanced, bursting with fragrant citrus blossom aromas and delicate strawberry essence, reminiscent of warm summer days.”
Benziger Family Winery picked up gold medals for three different Pinot Noir selections at the Press Democrat’s 2020 North Coast Wine Challenge, together with a gold for the Joaquin’s Inferno red blend.
1883 London Ranch Rd., Glen Ellen, 707-935-3000, benziger.com By appointment only; reservations available online.
Outdoor tasting area at Benziger Family Winery in Glen Ellen. (Courtesy photo)
A. Rafanelli Winery
The Rafanelli family, with a rich history in winemaking that goes back four generations, bottle Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. This has always been a by-appointment-only destination, primarily because their sought-after wines are produced in limited quantities. Here you’ll have the full attention of the host: just one seated tasting is offered at a time in a stunning garden setting with views, and costs $75 for a table of up to six guests (waived with purchase). Two to four people is prime for a more intimate experience, says winemaker Rashell (Shelly) Rafanelli. “Most of the time your one-on-one host will be a member of our family, and you can ask for as much or as little wine education as you like during your visit. This method of welcoming our tasting guests one party at a time was so popular in 2020 that we plan to continue it this year.”
4685 W. Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-1385, arafanelliwinery.com.
BloodRoot Wines
Noah and Kelly Dorrance, the team behind Reeve Wines, launched this new label to spotlight high-quality Sonoma-grown-only Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. According to owner Kelly, there’s one flight currently on the tasting menu at $25, featuring Blanc de Gris, Rosé of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Carignan, and Cabernet Sauvignon.
“We are planning to revamp our food program,” she says, “but for now we’re offering spiced nuts with this flight that are made by SingleThread Restaurant, across the street.”
118 North St., Healdsburg, 707-387-7058, bloodrootwines. com.
B.R. Cohn Winery
Outdoor spaces at this winery are some of the most scenic in Sonoma Valley, showcasing rolling vineyards and more than 400 heritage olive trees. A tasting for two ($35 per pair) features a flight of wines served by carafe; wines by the glass are also offered (starting at $10). B.R. Cohn produces an extensive collection of whites and reds, including award-winning Russian River Valley Chardonnay, together with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and a Malbec — all created from grapes grown in the winery’s Olive Hill Estate vineyards.
15000 Sonoma Highway, Glen Ellen, 707-938-4064, brcohn.com.
Breathless Wines
The focus is on sparkling wine, a passion shared by the three sisters who founded the label. They offer three different tastings, all $20: a flight of four sparklers, a mixed flight of sparkling and still wines, and a flight of the stills, and if you choose, caviar to accompany your wines for an additional cost.
New releases this month include the winery’s still wines –– Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and rosé. “The rosé is very Provence in style, and all the wines are done in the French style,” says tasting room manager Christine Cureton. “But the rosé really exudes ‘French’ to me.” Breathless won many gold medals in 2020 in competitions including the Sunset International Wine Competition, the North Coast Wine Challenge, and the Sonoma County Harvest Fair.
499 Moore Lane, Healdsburg, 707-395-7300, breathlesswines.com.
Jordan Vineyard & Winery
Jordan embraces the warm spring weather when it reopens to guests for the first time since November with a series of vineyard hikes during Earth Week ($110, April 22 to 25). Tickets go on sale April 7. A four-mile trek winds through the 1,200-acre estate that encompasses woods, meadows, olive orchards, new pollinator sanctuaries and vineyards. The hikes conclude with a lunch on the terrace, featuring greens, vegetables and foraged flowers from the estate, along with tastings of the winery’s cuvée sparkler, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon. “While new vintages won’t be released until August, we are still pouring our 40th-anniversary vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon [2016], our 2018 Chardonnay, and the Jordan Cuvée Champagne by AR Lenoble,” says communications director Lisa Mattson. Spring vineyard hikes will also be hosted on May 7 and 8.
1474 Alexander Valley Road, Healdsburg, 800-654-1213, jordanwinery.com.
Keller Estate Winery
A 90-minute private walking tour and seated tasting called the Alfresco Estate Visit ($40) is offered on weekends at this winery in the heart of the Petaluma Gap AVA, known for cool climate vineyards that produce exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Syrah. “Our lineup of wines rotates, as our production is small,” explains hospitality manager Steven Harlor. “Our Pinot Gris should grace the tasting menu this month — until we release our rosé in late spring. We’ll also pour some of our flagship Chardonnays and Pinots, for which we are best known.”
Several roomy outdoor spaces on this property make tasting a special occasion. At one time, the restored main barn was the home of renowned grapegrowers, the late Richard and Saralee Kunde.
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are the stars at La Crema, with fruit sourced locally and from Monterey County. La Crema offers seated tastings ($30 for five wines), along with a guided walking tour and tasting ($75). Or, buy a bottle of wine from the tasting room and reserve one of the outdoor picnic tables ($50 per table); a formal tasting will not be conducted, but you’re welcome to bring your own food.
Landmark is popular for its spacious courtyard area, which offers lovely views of the surrounding hills. It’s the ideal setting to enjoy single-vineyard Chardonnays
and Pinot Noirs. (signature tasting, $35). The reserve tasting ($70) is offered three times daily, with selections from the single-vineyard Chardonnays and Pinots, along with a Bordeaux blend made by Landmark’s sister winery, Justin Vineyards & Winery in Paso Robles. “That extra taste of the Justin is something to draw visitors in to our special reserve tasting,” explains hospitality and tasting room manager Donna Carroll. “It’s the last pour of that flight, which also includes a cheese plate.”
With a tasting room overlooking Dry Creek Valley, Papapietro Perry was created by Ben and Yolanda Papapietro and Bruce and Renae Perry. Zinfandel and Chardonnay are on the menu (and possibly a limited amount of Rosé of Pinot), but the winery is best known for its Pinot Noir. Papapietro Perry received the Best of Show Red Wine award in the Press Democrat’s 2020 North Coast Wine Challenge for its 777 Clones Pinot Noir from 2017. A 60-minute patio tasting of five wines is $25; add a charcuterie board for $20.
4791 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-0422, papapietro-perry.com.
Three Sticks Wines
This is one of the more interesting tasting experiences on the Sonoma Plaza. Tasting are held in the the historic Vallejo-Casteñada Adobe, which is well worth a visit. The basic tasting is a flight of Chardonnay and Pinot Noirs ($50), but guests can also choose a food-and-wine pairing ($85). Three Sticks will release seven new wines this month, including a Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Blanc. The winery received two gold medals in the Press Democrat’s 2020 North Coast Wine Challenge, one for its 2018 Gap’s Crown Chardonnay and one for the 2018 Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir.
143 W. Spain St., Sonoma, 707-996-3328, threestickswines. com.