Boeuf Bourguignon at Walter Hansel Wine Bistro in Santa Rosa. (Chris Hardy/For Sonoma Magazine)
Despite ongoing challenges for the restaurant industry — rising food costs, staffing shortages, slower foot traffic and diners pushing back on creeping prices — many restaurateurs are still hanging on.
While Sonoma County saw a significant number of closures this year, more than in 2024, there was also encouraging movement in the other direction. Several restaurants reopened under new ownership, and others quickly found new tenants poised to take their place in 2026.
Restaurant ownership remains a tough game, even for the hardiest souls, but in 2025 openings ultimately outpaced closures. Rosso returned just months after closing, as did Bazaar Sonoma and Downtown BBQ. There were also big, successful swings, including Charlie Palmer’s Folia at Appellation Healdsburg and Waterhawk Lake Club in Rohnert Park, alongside smaller wins from pop-up standouts like Bob Costarella of Red Eye Barbecue.
Still, the losses sting. It’s heartbreaking to see longtime favorites disappear and just as painful to watch promising newcomers that never quite found their footing. Behind every closure are restaurateurs who poured blood, sweat and savings into a dream that didn’t survive.
Here are the Sonoma County restaurants we lost in 2025.
Ken’s Roll at Hana Japanese Restaurant in Rohnert Park Sept. 21, 2022. Hana closed in January of 2025. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)Sukiyaki at Hana Japanese Restaurant in Rohnert Park Sept. 21, 2022. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Hana Japanese (January): Known for its affable founding chef Ken Tominaga and authentic cuisine, the Japanese restaurant unofficially closed in January. It wasn’t until August that Tominaga’s widow, Emiko, announced the official closure, saying the family worked for three years to keep the restaurant open following Ken’s death before making the difficult decision to close. The Hana legacy carried on with a ramen pop-up with Bazaar Sonoma in August and promises of future collaborations. 101 Golf Course Drive, Rohnert Park
Tipsy Taco (March): The former Acapulco Restaurant & Cantina has seen a handful of restaurant concepts come and go at its downtown Santa Rosa location with the taqueria being its latest tenant. No replacement has been announced. 505 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa
Basu Slade slides a pizza onto a plate at Rosso Pizzeria & Wine Bar in Santa Rosa on Tuesday, Sept. 30, 2025. Rosso closed in March and reopened in September. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)Fungi limone pizza at Rosso Pizzeria & Wine Bar in Santa Rosa on Tuesday, Sept. 30, 2025. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
Rosso (March, reopened September): When Santa Rosa’s Rosso Pizzeria and Wine Bar closed its doors in March, it felt like the end of an era. Opened in 2009 by chef John Franchetti, formerly of Tra Vigne, and Kevin Cronin, the wood-fired pizza shop had built a loyal following with its focus on simple Italian cooking and seasonal, local ingredients. Franchetti insisted that everything — from dough to burrata — be made in-house. But Rosso was too inimitable to go gently into that good night.
Less than seven months later, the restaurant reopened under the ownership of John and Linda Ahmadi, a husband-and-wife team who previously ran Sandy’s Take and Bake Pizza (which they sold to Kristen and Kenny Bringhurst in 2023). The space and menu remain mostly unchanged, many staff members have returned, and the food, for the most part, is just as good as you remember. 53 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-615-7893, rossopizzeria.com
Trattoria Cattaneo (April): The Bennett Valley trattoria closed after 22 years, citing rising costs for ingredients, labor and utilities, along with a post-COVID slowdown. The family-run restaurant, known for classic comfort dishes like chicken cannelloni, ravioli and gnocchi, had been on the market for three years without a viable buyer. 2700 Yulupa Ave., Santa Rosa
Kapu (April): The rum-forward, tiki-themed bar in Petaluma closed in late April due to ongoing financial challenges, according to owner David Ducommun. The bar opened in early 2023 with immersive design by tiki bar specialist Ben Bassham. 132 Keller St., Petaluma
Tropical cocktails at Kapu Bar, a tiki bar and restaurant in the heart of downtown Petaluma on Keller Street. Photo taken Feb. 1, 2023. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)Mississippi Mud Pie (Kinda’) with cocoa pavlova, milk chocolate pudding and vanilla cream from Blue Ridge Kitchen in Sebastopol. Photo taken Thursday, Sept. 24, 2020. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Blue Ridge Kitchen (May): The Southern-inspired anchor restaurant at The Barlow was one of several closures and transitions at the Sebastopol market in 2025. Chef Matt D’Ambrosi, formerly of Spoonbar, Harmon Guest House and Pizzando, opened Blue Ridge Kitchen in 2020. No replacement has been announced. 6770 McKinley St., Sebastopol
Other Barlow transitions include:
• Farmer’s Wife, which closed in October, will be replaced by Genero’s Deli in early 2026.
• Salt & Sea, from Sushi Kosho owner Jake Rand, replaced the former Purple Acai juice and smoothie bar in August, serving Hawaiian-style poke bowls with seasoned rice and marinated raw fish.
Mtsvadi, grilled pork belly tossed with cilantro, red onion and chile flake from Piala Restaurant and Wine Bar in Sebastopol. Photo taken Thursday, March 2, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Piala (August): Despite glowing reviews, the Georgian-style restaurant cited the “economic climate” for its closure. But even before its 2022 opening, the Sebastopol restaurant faced challenges after city leaders barred co-owner Lowell Sheldon from working at or entering the kitchen as a condition of its alcohol permit. The restriction followed public outcry after Sheldon was accused of sexual harassment. He denies the allegations, and no criminal charges were filed. 7233 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol
Walter Hansel Wine & Bistro (August): The rural bistro affiliated with Walter Hansel Winery served its last meal in mid-August after 12 years in business. Owner Stephen Hansel cited rising food costs and declining foot traffic. 3535 Guerneville Road, Santa Rosa
Road Trip Kitchen (September): Restaurateur Crista Luedtke sold her eclectic Guerneville cafe to chefs Carlos Mendez and Rosy Ortega, who had worked for her at Boon Cafe for more than a decade. The duo reopened it as Three Cultures Kitchen, serving American dishes infused with flavors from Ortega’s Salvadoran roots and Mendez’s Mexican heritage. 16218 Main St., Guerneville
The Mac Daddy burger with secret sauce from Road Trip Monday, May 20, 2024, in Guerneville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Maya Restaurant (September): The longtime Mexican favorite on Sonoma’s plaza closed after the owners announced their retirement. The Girl & The Fig team plans to take over the space for a new restaurant opening in 2026. 101 E. Napa St., Sonoma
Forestville’s new restaurant Bazaar Sonoma on Oct. 17, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Bazaar Sonoma restaurant owners Jenny Phan and Sean Quan are grateful for the community support Thursday, Oct. 16, 2025, after a fire closed their Forestville restaurant. BaSo now operates in a temporary location offered by friend Gerard Nebesky of Gerard’s Paella Catering. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Bazaar Sonoma (September, reopened October): After an early morning fire destroyed Bazaar Sonoma’s Forestville location in September, owners Sean Quan and Jenny Phan didn’t miss a beat. Just weeks later, they were back in cooking action at nearby BaSo Annex at 6536 Front St., offering a streamlined menu of fan favorites, including Zhong dumplings, Taiwanese beef noodle soup and tofu pudding with five-spice caramel. The Annex is open from 5-8 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday. They’ve also added Sunday lunch service from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. for clay pot rice, dumplings and congee. In December, the couple had a preview of a new project, Anju Club, featuring Korean drinking food at Acre Pasta in Sebastopol.
Downtown BBQ (November, reopened late November): After a brief closure, restaurateur Lowell Sheldon announced that the sprawling downtown Santa Rosa restaurant would reopen under new ownership with some menu changes. Sheldon declined to identify the group replacing him, but said a new chef and new menu items were included with the change. 610 Third St., Santa Rosa
Stonework Pizza (November): The Petaluma pizzeria closed in late November. Pig in a Pickle plans to open at the site in 2026. 615 E. Washington St., Petaluma
Uni chawanmushi (egg custard with Hokkaido uni and roe) at Sushi Kosho’s nine-piece nigiri tasting. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
Watching sushi chef Ben Gerelkhuu form shari in his palm is a thing of wonder. With a few impossibly quick wrist flicks and delicate squeezes, the vinegared sushi rice becomes a neat oblong pillow in his palm. Deft fingers flutter over the rice like a sleight-of-hand magic act, a thin slice of fish set gently on top — and voilà, nigiri appears before your eyes.
Gerelkhuu has recently joined the Sushi Kosho team at the Sebastopol restaurant, rolling out a progressive nine-piece omakase nigiri experience he created with Kosho owner Jake Rand. It’s a two-whiskey adventure at the sushi bar, where you can get up close and personal with your food.
I’ve long been a fan of Sushi Kosho, especially after losing the iconic Hana Japanese Restaurant earlier this year. It’s one of the only spots left with high-end fish, properly seasoned rice and well-trained chefs (Gerelkhuu recently worked at the Michelin-rated Sushi by Scratch) behind the counter.
After experiencing a preview version of the $89 experience, I’m impressed. It has all the quality of Sushi by Scratch (which I was ambivalent about) without the theatrics.
Here’s why I’m sold
Salmon with plum and shiso at Sushi Kosho’s nine-piece nigiri tasting. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
The omakase experience has an easy, intentional rhythm rather than a pile of sushi landing on your plate at once. Each piece of nigiri is presented like a work of art — which it is. Gerelkhuu places tiny dots of kosho (an aromatic fermented chile paste) with needle-like chopsticks or sprays a pearl of blue cheese foam atop the fish with a flourish.
The nigiri are more than just fish and rice, but they aren’t ridiculous. I’m a purist, and I like the fish and rice to do the talking. Though Gerelkhuu and Rand aren’t afraid of a little embellishment, there’s nothing silly about the experience (OK, the blue cheese foam was a little silly, but entertaining).
The fish is pristine. And cut properly. I hate thick slabs of cheap fish that lesser sushi shops pass off as “generous.” Kosho has always impressed me with intentionally cut nigiri and sashimi.
Uni chawanmushi (egg custard with Hokkaido uni and roe) at Sushi Kosho’s nine-piece nigiri tasting. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
The chef’s choice intermezzos are outstanding. My experience included uni chawanmushi, a steamed bowl of egg custard with strips of creamy Hokkaido uni, and Wagyu beef chazuke, a bowl of rice with barbecued beef and tea-infused broth.
Clam, Prawn & Sausage Sauté served with grilled sourdough from Catelli’s Restaurant Sunday, Dec. 21, 2025 in Geyserville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Everything about Catelli’s, from the exposed brick walls and timeworn wood floors to the smooth stone hearth, feels lived in. Walking through the door is like a hug from a favorite great-aunt: warm, familiar and faintly perfumed with garlic and red wine.
The homey Geyserville restaurant leans into Italian-American classics like 10-layer lasagna, spaghetti with marinara, chicken Parmesan, minestrone and garlic bread. But its soul is pure Sonoma County.
Nearly 90 years have passed since Santi and Virginia Catelli opened their first restaurant in town. They called it the Rex, after a free sign bearing a mysterious name whose origins remain unclear. The Rex endured for more than half a century, later becoming Catelli’s The Rex, before closing in 1991. It was revived in 2010 by the Catellis’ grandchildren, Domenica and Nick.
Domenica Catelli, chef and owner of Catelli’s in Geyserville, continues serving great Italian food started by her grandfather in 1936 when he opened “The Rex” with a used sign from another business. Photo taken Sunday, Dec. 21, 2025. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Chef Domenica Catelli, owner of Catelli’s restaurant, harvests fresh produce from her Geyserville restaurant garden. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat, file)
Chef Domenica Catelli is the restaurant’s public face, and her recipes anchor much of the menu. A private chef to several celebrities, she has appeared on numerous television cooking shows and is a frequent guest on programs hosted by Guy Fieri.
Catelli’s has reasserted itself as a cornerstone of rural Geyserville, a town without a stoplight and with only a handful of shops and restaurants. It is an irresistible draw for out-of-towners seeking an authentic Sonoma County experience.
Behind her broad smile and signature chestnut braid, Catelli is as comfortable working the line as she is in front of the camera. She is often found in the kitchen or out forging relationships with local farmers and producers.
Food, however, is only part of the equation. Family togetherness is baked into Catelli’s, with big booths and long tables that make it a natural gathering place for groups, whether bound by blood or affection.
“We want it to have a familial vibe — warm, comforting and fun,” Catelli said.
Ten-layer lasagna at Catelli’s in Geyserville. (Chris Hardy/for Sonoma Magazine, file)Zinfandel-braised lamb shank with polenta and greens and a Wintergreen Margarita from Catelli’s Restaurant Sunday, Dec. 21, 2025, in Geyserville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Fun fact
Catelli cooked for Oprah Winfrey for nearly a decade as a private chef and food stylist. She is the author of “Mom-a-Licious” and has appeared on Food Network as both a competitor and a judge.
Go-to spot
Catelli is a regular at Lo & Behold in Healdsburg. “It’s this warm, welcoming place that feels like home,” she said. “It’s my ‘Cheers.'” Catelli, who grew up in her family’s restaurant, spent many hours in a bouncy swing behind the bar — it was a different time.
The star factor
A-list diners have included Justin and Hailey Bieber, Lady Gaga and “Saturday Night Live” alumni Maya Rudolph, Ana Gasteyer and Amy Poehler.
The vibe
Food, family and fun — with family defined broadly and generously.
Catelli’s homemade meat ravioli with a mushroom cream sauce, cremini and porcini mushrooms, and finished with crispy prosciutto and Parmesan with a side of garlic bread and a Chai Mule cocktail from Catelli’s Restaurant Sunday, Dec. 21, 2025, in Geyserville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
What to eat
Portions are generous, often large enough for leftovers, particularly pastas and main courses.
Most popular dish – Garlic bread ($11.50): “Every table has it,” Catelli said. Also popular: chicken Parmesan ($29) and spaghetti with Richard’s meat sauce ($25), made with beef, chicken, wine and vegetables.
Burrata and prosciutto ($22): Creamy burrata, ribbons of aged prosciutto, grilled bread and a heap of peppery arugula. Required.
Beef carpaccio ($16): Paper-thin raw beef with shaved Parmesan and fried capers.
Beef Carpaccio with a house spice blend, sliced paper-thin and finished with arugula, Parmesan and fried capers from Catelli’s Restaurant Sunday, Dec. 21, 2025, in Geyserville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Basil Caesar ($10/$17): A classic interpretation with torn basil, Parmesan and lemony dressing.
Domenica’s sauce and spaghetti ($22): A deceptively simple tomato, garlic and olive oil sauce (plus a few secret ingredients), equally good with ravioli or the airy 10-layer lasagna made with ricotta, goat cheese and herbs. The mushroom cream sauce ($26) is rich and indulgent, with lemon zest, three kinds of mushrooms and prosciutto.
Chicken Parmesan ($29): I’m a chicken Parm enthusiast, and I’ve tried the gamut — from Michael Angelo’s frozen entrees to Mary’s Pizza Shack (both solid). This is the ultimate Chicken Parm: Juicy chicken, crisp breading, a pool of sassy tomato sauce, burrata and a bed of smoky, buttery polenta. I may have wept a little.
Chicken Parmesan at Catelli’s Restaurant in Geyserville. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
The rest
A full bar offers specialty cocktails, including the spicy Garden Jalapeño Margarita ($15) with pepper-infused tequila and a chile-salted rim. Gluten-free pasta and several gluten-free dishes are available.
The price
Starters $8-$22; salads $10-$18; pasta $22-$28; mains $29-$34.
A modern home on 10 secluded acres in Guerneville is currently listed for sale. The two-bedroom, two-bathroom dwelling set among redwoods is seeking$1,295,000.
The interior of the 1,700-square-foot home, built in 1992, reiterates the woodsy surround through stained-wood millwork. Generous windows — including bifold patio doors — provide lots of light and allow forest views to take center stage.
The wraparound deck is a spacious perch among the trees. Seating, dining and a spa offer a pleasing means of soaking it all in.
Great room. (Open Homes Photography)Seating area of deck. (Open Homes Photography)Outdoor sauna and seating area. (Open Homes Photography)
Sunny grounds include raised vegetable beds, fruit trees, a small barn, chicken coop and dry sauna. The garage is outfitted with Wi-Fi, and the property has an EV charging station and RV hookup. A metal roof offers fire mitigation.
For more information on the property at 17970 Duncan Road in Guerneville, contact listing agent Pat Patricelli, 415-516-0875, Vanguard Properties,redwoodescape.com
This two-bedroom, three-bathroom Petaluma home with access to a community garden and shared outdoor spaces is currently listed for $1,275,000. (Digital Twinners)
A contemporary home in Petaluma with clean lines and rich detail is on the market. The two-bedroom, three-bathroom dwelling with access to a community garden and shared outdoor spaces is currently listed for $1,275,000.
The work of Petaluma-based MAD Architecture, the circa-2018 home is situated for convenience and community. It’s part of the Keller Court Commons with shared green spaces, and it’s a walkable distance to Petaluma’s quaint and happening downtown. Recreation in and along the Petaluma River is nearby, too — from restaurants and paddleboarding to river walks dotted with art installations.
The home is cleanly modern with pleasing design details. Rugged-wood vertical siding provides a rustic and homey contrast to metal siding. High ceilings and repeating windows allow plenty of light, while patches of wood-cladding and inspired use of colorblocking warms the space. Accented areas with pink, plum and more enliven the dwelling. These tints are pulled from the mosaic backsplash in the kitchen, which anchors the great room.
Great room. (Digital Twinners)Kitchen. (Digital Twinners)Bathroom. (Digital Twinners)
The color patchwork is repeated, more subtly so, in the bathroom with alternating dark and light wood cabinetry and on the radiant-heat floors with varying tones of tile. A built-in bench at the stairway landingwith a bright red wall adds visual interest and a cozy resting spot. The dwelling is an impossibly successful mix of lively and tranquil.
Susan Preston in her studio near her home of 50 years in the Dry Creek Valley. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The woman signing books at Barndiva in Healdsburg seemed genteel and refined as she smiled and chatted with a long line of friends and admirers.
Susan Preston had, for the time being, set her spikes aside.
That is, she’d chosen to conceal certain of her wild and sharp-edged aspects — the “spikiness,” as she recently described it to her daughter Francesca — that emerge in her art.
Since the mid-1970s, Susan and her husband, Lou Preston, have run a farm and winery in Dry Creek Valley widely beloved for its Old World feel and relaxed family vibe. Preston Farm and Winery sells superb wine, olive oil, organic produce, and artisanal food products like sourdough bread.
Less well known, but no less remarkable, are the talents and oeuvre of Susan Preston, who for decades “kind of split three ways,” in her words, dividing her energies “between children, business, and the art.”
Copies of the book “In Ghost Time: The Art and Stories of Susan Preston” are available for purchase and signing during Preston’s book launch party at Barndiva in Healdsburg Sunday, Sept. 14, 2025. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
With the September release of “In Ghost Time: The Art and Stories of Susan Preston,” her profile as a creative is on the rise. While helping grow the family business and raising daughters Maggie and Francesca — both now established artists in their own right — Susan was devouring courses at Santa Rosa Junior College, then Sonoma State University, then Mills College in Oakland, where she earned her Master of Fine Arts degree in 1996.
During that time she was honing the distinctive style on display in her new monograph.
“All the teachers told me I had my own way,” Preston recalls with a smile. “They said, ‘You’re an original.’”
“She’s always been very much her own person,” said Maggie, a photo-based artist who lives and works in Berkeley, “a little unusual, a little eccentric, and not necessarily following the traditional path.”
Artwork by Susan Preston is on display during a launch party for her book “In Ghost Time: The Art and Stories of Susan Preston” at Barndiva in Healdsburg Sunday, Sept. 14, 2025. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
The less traveled, often fantastical path trod by Susan Preston resulted in paintings with whimsical and occasionally sinister titles, such as “Make Noise Silently,” “Oh Noodles Please Don’t Leave Me,” “A Pimp’s Tattoo,” and “We Killed the Wrong Twin.” Preston’s collage-style works feature “mysterious and idiosyncratic images” that are “a form of visual poetry and storytelling,” wrote Stephanie Hanor, Art Museum director at Mills College.
As unconventional as Preston’s art are the materials from which it’s made: brown paper bags — the kind you get in a grocery store — bees wax, black tea, rabbit skin glue, chewing gum, olive oil, and foil.
That alchemy takes place in her stand-alone, 20-by-30-foot studio just beyond the farmhouse on their verdant 125-acre spread between Dry Creek and Pena Creek. Covering the studio’s walls are drawings cut from her notebooks. No longer strong enough to push tacks into the walls to hang those sketches, she keeps a small hammer at the ready, for that purpose.
The studio is a place of “creative chaos,” says Lou, who speaks with wonderment of his wife’s process, and “all these wild and weird things in her work.”
Susan Preston in her studio near her home of 50 years in the Dry Creek Valley. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
While she used to bury larger pieces of that brown paper in the river, Susan now covers smaller squares with earth she’s loosened in front of her studio. She checks them every so often “like you would stirring a good soup,” she explains. “When the pieces are ready, I take them inside and wash them off. Subtlety is what I’m looking for. Sometimes, I pour small streams of olive oil or tea on them.”
Thus does she summon “characters and anthropomorphic animals that challenge our perceptions about what it really means to be alive,” writes Jil Hales in an essay that appears in the book.
Hales, a close friend of Preston’s, is the founder and co-owner of Barndiva, a Michelin-recommended restaurant that doubles, by day, as an art gallery and played a prominent role in the genesis of the women’s friendship.
On the day it opened in 2004, a crowd gathered outside Barndiva for an exhibit Hales had painstakingly planned. A select group of makers had been invited to showcase their wares: wine, chocolate, cured meats, and other delectables — each complemented by a piece of art that “interpreted” the edible art.
Artist Susan Preston, joined by her husband Lou, signs a copy of her book “In Ghost Time: The Art and Stories of Susan Preston” during a launch party for her book “In Ghost Time: The Art and Stories of Susan Preston” at Barndiva in Healdsburg Sunday, Sept. 14, 2025. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Each, that is, except the wood-fired, heritage grain loaf baked by Lou Preston, which, 10 minutes before Barndiva’s grand opening, still had no art to accompany it.
That’s when an attractive woman with “an off-kilter swagger strode in through the main door,” Hales recalls in the Barndiva blog, “carrying a full bag of flour on her shoulder.”
Susan “proceeded to bend, slash, and pour the entire sack onto the new stone floor, just below the plinth where Lou’s ‘art’ sat beneath a spotlight.”
The flour dust had yet to settle before she left, then returned with a faded blue, spindle-backed chair she placed into the flour. It was a performance piece, Hales writes, that “fully caught the zeitgeist of the exhibit and spoke eloquently of the direction we hoped to take Barndiva.” It was also a moment that left Hales convinced: “I needed to know this woman.”
Artist Susan Preston speaks before a crowd during a launch party for her book “In Ghost Time: The Art and Stories of Susan Preston” at Barndiva in Healdsburg Sunday, Sept. 14, 2025. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
The friendship that blossomed, says Hales, has “intensified the last few years.” Preston Farm works closely with Barndiva. Susan has shown her work in its studio. In addition to being wonderful and kind, Hales notes, Preston is “forthright,” and “has an honesty about her that’s rare these days.”
It was at Hales’ urging, and with her considerable help, that Preston produced “In Ghost Time,” a collection of her paintings and sketches, along with a handful of indelible stories that shed light on her artistic process and recall her free-range, almost feral upbringing in Calaveritas, California, an abandoned Gold Rush town, which gives the book its title.
I grew up in a ghost town
And played in the remains of an old Fandango house.
Two large junk heaps and a forgotten blacksmith shop.
Sections of the town were separated by barbed wire fences.
The lines in my paintings and drawings remind me of that ragged fence.
I crave a strange and crooked simplicity.
That’s an excerpt from the prologue introducing the book’s “Stories,” which recount in Preston’s spare, evocative prose what it was like to grow up in Calaveritas without her father, who moved away when she was 3, but with an extended family that provided “both freedom and protection.”
Copies of the book “In Ghost Time: The Art and Stories of Susan Preston” are available for purchase and signing during Preston’s book launch party at Barndiva in Healdsburg Sunday, Sept. 14, 2025. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
You can take the girl out of the ghost town, but as Preston recounts in the book, the characters, shapes, and materials from Calaveritas, including “an old squeaky chair, a gold mining pan, iron trivets,” and the coiled baskets of the Miwok tribe just up the road, have long insinuated themselves into her artwork, embedded themselves in her being.
From the first day they met, said Lou Preston, whose upbringing on a dairy farm outside Healdsburg was more conventional, “I’ve been envious of her growing up with this incredible, magical independence.”
Artist Susan Preston draws birds for her latest piece while sitting in her studio sketching chair a quick walk from her home of 50 years in the Dry Creek Valley. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
“In Ghost Time” was conceived and set in motion during the Covid-19 pandemic, a frightening, uncertain period of Preston’s life.
In chronic pain while recovering from a difficult surgery, “and with the added dimensions of Covid, the political environment, and the general unknowing,” she recalled, “something disoriented me severely.”
“I became unmoored, half in this world, half in another. No one knew quite what to do about it.”
This “time of madness,” she said, was worse for her loved ones than herself.
Hales, who described Preston’s condition as “a perfect physical and psychological storm that jumbled her signposts and signals,” came up with the idea that helped Preston find her way back to lucidity.
She encouraged her friend to assemble a monograph of her art and stories. “And for some reason,” Preston recounted, “that was the first idea that stuck, and gave me purpose.”
It took two years, but she regained her health and started painting again.
Susan Cuneo and Lou Preston went on their first date in 1973, having been introduced by Barden Stevenot, a visionary grapegrower who would later be credited with bringing the wine industry to Calaveras County. On this day, he was showing Lou a piece of land in Dry Creek Valley that held promise as a vineyard.
Stevenot brought along his friend from the Gold Rush region, Susan, who at the time was teaching at a tiny Graton elementary school.
Susan Preston and her husband Lou have spent 50 years together in their Dry Creek Valley home. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Lou remembers Stevenot showing up “with this gorgeous and smart lady who arrived to walk around the property in the shortest skirt I’d seen in a long time.” She was also barefoot.
He was also taken with Susan’s intellectual range. “She was very literate in a way that I wasn’t.”
And so she remains, says Lou, who now finds himself wondering, “If we live long enough, can I catch up? And I’ve kind of decided I probably won’t.”
Not long after that first date, Susan brought her new beau to Calaveritas, about 5 miles east of San Andreas, “to stomp grapes in the stonewalled winery under my family home.”
On long walks to the barn late at night, she recounts in the book, “I turned cartwheels for him in the moonlight.”
A year after that first date, they were married in Calaveritas. Stevenot was Lou’s best man.
After the couple launched their business, Susan would make frequent trips to the vest-pocket post office in Geyserville, where there was always a line, she remembers.
The book “In Ghost Time: The Art and Stories of Susan Preston” sits on display during Preston’s book launch party at Barndiva in Healdsburg Sunday, Sept. 14, 2025. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
While waiting, she would turn her attention to the posters of the FBI’s “Most Wanted” fugitives. “They were a marvel,” she says. Studying their photos, admiring the cleverness of their aliases — she was especially taken with one Dwight Orlando Birdsong — Susan conjured fictitious backstories for them. Before long, she recalls, she was writing “poems and tiny stories” about them.
“In a sense some of these outlaws became my people.”
The tales of those outlaws, accompanied by her sketches, grew into a series of pieces she showed at the Southern Exposure Art Gallery in San Francisco in the early 2000s.
They also comprise “Part Three” of “In Ghost Time,” titled “The Criminal in Each of Us,” which begins with a kind of free-verse statement of her purpose:
I want to make real things, primitive, direct and concrete — like statues
Who live outside the Law.
I want to make a roomful of anarchists, who live below the earth, with
No remorse.
Artist Susan Preston speaks before a crowd during a launch party for her book “In Ghost Time: The Art and Stories of Susan Preston” at Barndiva in Healdsburg Sunday, Sept. 14, 2025. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
While raising her daughters, Preston put her life as an artist on hold. She waited until Maggie, her youngest, was in kindergarten before enrolling in art classes at the junior college.
“I would take one or two courses each semester,” recalls Susan, who was constantly checking art history books out of various libraries. Strewn about the house, those tomes were picked up and perused by Maggie and Francesca, who themselves gravitated, not surprisingly, to the arts.
So obsessed was Susan with painting, she says, that she had occasional pangs of guilt “that I wasn’t giving them enough attention” — a notion Maggie dismissed by telling her mother, “If you’d given us too much attention, we wouldn’t have been able to find our own way.”
Francesca, a poet, essayist, artist, and editor based in Petaluma, contributed “Lean In Closer,” an essay accompanying the fourth and final section of “In Ghost Time,” a crazy quilt of drawings and musings collected and curated from the dozens of journals her mother kept over nearly 40 years.
Artwork by Susan Preston hangs on the wall during a launch party for her book “In Ghost Time: The Art and Stories of Susan Preston” at Barndiva in Healdsburg Sunday, Sept. 14, 2025. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Those journals and notebooks contained “words, patterns, unanswerable questions, cross-outs, lines from poems — all dancing around and within those fabulous faces,” Francesca recalls in her essay.
The notebooks could be found throughout the Preston household, “all over the place, like turkey feathers after a dust-up. Sometimes they were left open. If I came across one, I would gaze at it like a lost sibling.”
The drawings in those notebooks, which evoke the illustrations of New Yorker cartoonist Maira Kalman, were often rough drafts, precursors of the mature works that came later. Susan’s hope is that other artists might look at the sketches “and understand how my mind works when I’m figuring out what art to do.”
To look carefully at some of those drawings, she said, is to see “exactly where my thinking was.”
Artwork by Susan Preston is on display during a launch party for her book “In Ghost Time: The Art and Stories of Susan Preston” at Barndiva in Healdsburg Sunday, Sept. 14, 2025. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
In a Q&A with her mother that appeared on the website Fuji Hub in February 2025, Francesca wrote that although Susan “did normal things like pack lunches and look for ticks in our hair, she was also growing into her real life as an artist, a painter, an inward-outward thinker. By the time I was 20 she had made her way to the prestigious MFA program in painting at Mills College, under the mentorship of master Hung Liu.”
Liu, one of the first Chinese artists to establish a successful career in the United States, died in 2021 of pancreatic cancer, two months before the opening of a major exhibition of her work at the National Portrait Gallery in Washington, D.C.
A few months before her death, Liu had been planning an exhibit honoring women artists she’d mentored during her two decades at Mills. Thirteen of those former students were chosen to have their work showcased at the exhibit, Susan Preston among them.
One of the questions Francesca posed to her mother concerned a sketch gleaned from one of those journals. Beside a drawing of a gazing woman is the sentence “Put a little anger in your sugar bowl.”
Artist Susan Preston attends a launch party for her book “In Ghost Time: The Art and Stories of Susan Preston” at Barndiva in Healdsburg Sunday, Sept. 14, 2025. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Asked to explain, Susan replied, “Well, I think that as a woman I don’t want to be walked over. One of the ways we can keep that from happening is to be a little spiky. Pretend you’ve got spikes all over you. I mean, you don’t have to be that way all of the time. But like how animals can change form when they need to? Like that.”
Or like the spiked plant she mentions early in her book:
I live in a place called dry creek
Where stinging nettle grows unbidden
Along the ruffian water
Before a rain I might bury a drawing down
Under the black dirt
Near my studio door or take a painting to the river
To bury it by placing rocks on its face
When I return to collect the pieces I feel like a mother rescuing her child.
Sommeliers taste wines in a blind tasting competition during the Blind Bottle Bash at Flambeaux Wine in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of TOWN)
With fire dancers, a gospel choir and a drone light show, the TOWN dinner series — short for Traveling Off-Season For Wine Night — has, in just two years, turned the traditional wine dinner model upside down.
Now, its co-founders, Arthur Murray, co-owner of Flambeaux Wine, and Alexander Harris (who goes by A3l3xzand3r), co-owner of The Harris Gallery Art & Wine Collection, are using their creative approach to foster relationships among small, family-owned wineries in Sonoma County.
On Dec. 4, the inaugural Blind Bottle Bash took place at Flambeaux Wine in Healdsburg. Wax-sealed invitations were hand-delivered to nearly 30 family-owned wineries and sommeliers. Unlike TOWN dinners, no tickets were sold and the public wasn’t invited. But don’t mistake this for a typical industry party.
Nearly 30 wineries and sommeliers received wax-sealed invitations for TOWN’s Blind Bottle Bash at Flambeaux Wine in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of TOWN)
“It’s supposed to be a community and this is how they used to do it, I’m told,” said Murray, who estimated he had never met about half of the Blind Bottle Bash attendees. “I want us all to get to know each other. There’s a synergy here. I think if we stand together as small, really good wineries, we can succeed. No one comes to Wine Country to taste at one place.”
In true TOWN fashion, the evening had a lively theme. A life-size animated Darth Vader, Stormtrooper and Chewbacca greeted guests; the TOWN duo has a soft spot for Star Wars. Each of the 20 wineries was asked to bring a red and a white wine of any vintage or varietal for a friendly blind tasting competition. That’s where an A-list of sommeliers dressed in Jedi robes came into play.
Sommeliers gather for the Blind Bottle Bash at Flambeaux Wine in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of TOWN)
Sommeliers in attendance included Ryan Knowles and Adrienne Harkey (Maison Healdsburg); Jon Macklem (Dry Creek Kitchen); Jared Hooper (Mayacama); James Spain (Beckon and Major Tom restaurants in Denver, formerly SingleThread); Laurel Livezey (Little Saint); Shelley Lindgren (San Francisco’s A16); as well as radio and television personality Ziggy Eschliman.
As the sommeliers sipped and swirled, they enjoyed a rare chance to relax, chat, and in some cases, meet for the first time.
“Events like this remind me of why I love being part of the Sonoma winemaking community. Even though people often assume that winery owners all know each other, the truth is that we’re usually so focused on harvest, hospitality and our own vineyards that we don’t get many chances to just connect,” said Justin Plott, direct-to-consumer manager at Thomas George Estates. “I definitely met several winemakers/owners I hadn’t crossed paths with before and it was refreshing to talk shop in a relaxed setting rather than during the chaos of the season.”
Sommeliers gather around a fire pit during the Blind Bottle Bash at Flambeaux Wine in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of TOWN)
Shelly Rafanelli of A. Rafanelli Winery said she enjoyed catching up with other vintners so much that by the end of the night, she realized she’d only taken one picture. “It was just a really fun night. To get out and talk to other vintners and other winery people; the camaraderie is really nice.”
Narrowing the winery invite list was no easy task. TOWN’s general guidelines followed a rule of 10: wineries within 10 miles of Healdsburg city limits, in business for 10 years and producing 10 thousand cases or less. Participating wineries included Aldina Vineyards, Anthill Farms, Aperture Cellars, A. Rafanelli, Bacigalupi, Bella Vineyards + Wine Caves, Croix Estate Winery, Flambeaux Wine, Gros Ventre Cellars, Lambert Bridge, Leo Steen Wines, Limerick Lane, Papapietro Perry, Porter Creek Vineyards, Quivira Vineyards, Robert Young, Smith Story Wine Cellars, The Harris Gallery Art & Wine Collection, Thomas George Estates and Unti Vineyards.
A table holding wine bottles and glasses at TOWN’s Blind Bottle Bash at Flambeaux Wine in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of TOWN)Sommeliers participated in a blind tasting competition at the Blind Bottle Bash at Flambeaux Wine in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of TOWN)
“Familiar faces, long-overdue introductions and conversations we’ve all been too busy to have in-person,” said Alison Smith Story, co-founder of Smith Story Wine Cellars, summing up the event. “Hearing how everyone is navigating this year and tasting each other’s wines was the highlight.”
Thomas George Estates won top honors in both the red and white wine categories. Gros Ventre Cellars took second in the white category after a tiebreaking vote and A. Rafanelli placed second in the red category. Papapietro Perry took third in both categories. Along with a pair of lightsabers to be returned next year when Thomas George defends its titles, the winery has been invited to be a 2026 TOWN dinner series partner.
Harris and Murray promised more theatrics and unexpected guest appearances for the upcoming TOWN dinner series, and next year’s Blind Bottle Bash is already the talk of the town. Some members of the Jedi Sommelier Council have even requested Sith robes. From the silver screen to Wine Country, the sky’s the limit with the TOWN duo.
Rancher William Densberger feeds his herd of 100% Japanese Wagyu cattle Wednesday, Oct. 6, 2025, on a ranch owned by Adam Gordon at the base of Mount St. Helena in the Alexander Valley. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Not long after Adam Gordon opens the gate to his cow pasture, a bow-legged calf trots toward him, pausing to cock its head, ear tag wagging, before awkwardly circling back to its mother.
All around, Knights Valley resonates like a quiet spell. Aside from towering ridgetop oaks and vast farmlands and vineyards, the first thing you notice is a lingering silence.
“You can hear yourself think out here,” says Gordon, surrounded by a docile herd of 100% champion Wagyu cattle near a cluster of oak trees. “You can breathe again.”
With no shops or restaurants or hotels, the tiny valley is known more as a passage between Healdsburg and Calistoga than a destination. It’s where the road finally straightens after winding through sharp turns from either direction.
Rancher William Densberger walks among his herd of 100% Japanese Wagyu cattle Wednesday, Oct. 6, 2025, on a ranch owned by Adam Gordon at the base of Mount St. Helena in the Alexander Valley. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
In the distance, wildfire smoke rings Mount St. Helena, a reminder of the flames that raced through Knights Valley back in 2019. It’s also a lesson in how cattle grazing can create essential fire breaks. “Grazing reduces the fuel load,” he says. “Our cows mimic what bison once did, keeping grasslands in balance.”
An Ohio native who made his mark in the New York City real estate market, Gordon likes to say, “I’m the least likely rancher you know.”
Instead of boots and Wranglers, he’s wearing Hokas with purple socks and running shorts after a long Sunday morning walk.
Together with his wife, Kristina O’Neal, who designs the interiors of world-class restaurants, they found Shangri-La in one of the last remote corners of Sonoma County. Knights Valley is where they escape the fast-paced hustle of Manhattan, if only for a few months of the year.
Fifteen years ago, when they bought the 227-acre spread, they christened it Ghost Donkey Ranch after seeing “spectral and elusive” wild donkeys wander onto the ranch and then disappear, apparently refugees from an old rescue farm.
They set out to design and build their own house, and in keeping with the ranch theme, they adopted a pair of pet donkeys, Sugimoto and Jinx, who occasionally hang out in their living room and live year-round on the property.
It’s a familiar story — wealthy outsiders discover Sonoma County and put down roots — or at least buy a second or third home. But what sets Gordon and O’Neal apart is how they connected with the land and the local culinary scene.
“I knew we didn’t want to plant a vineyard,” says Gordon, wary of contributing to the glut and monoculture of grapes in Northern California.
Rancher William Densberger feeds the herd of 100% Japanese Wagyu cattle as the sun rises on the Knights Valley ranch east of Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
A well-studied environmentalist who dreamed of being a marine biologist as a kid — breeding fish in seven aquariums in his bedroom and later serving on the director’s council of the Scripps Institution of Oceanography — Gordon is a strong believer that cattle play an important role in the greater ecosystem around them. “They aerate soil with their hooves, fertilize with manure, stimulate plant growth by grazing. Managed right, cattle restore more than they take. They’re not an imposition; they’re continuity.”
He was inspired by a conversation with SingleThread chef Kyle Connaughton, a family friend ever since O’Neal’s firm AvroKO designed the interior of the three-star Michelin restaurant in Healdsburg. Connaughton described how nearly every ingredient he brings into his kitchen is harvested within a roughly 40-mile radius — except some fish and prized A5 (the highest grade) Wagyu beef flown in at least every other week from Japan. Connaughton had sampled American Wagyu beef, but it wasn’t up to his standards. He also couldn’t trust that it was always 100% Wagyu.
“I was struck when Kyle told me (American) Wagyu felt inconsistent, too rich and fatty, more lardo than beef, and that what he wanted was something leaner, something you could serve as a main portion instead of a tiny sashimi-sized bite,” remembers Gordon, who doesn’t consider himself a big beef eater.
A herd of 100% Japanese Wagyu cattle Wednesday, Oct. 6, 2025, on a ranch owned by Adam Gordon at the base of Mount St. Helena in the Alexander Valley. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
“That challenge stayed with me. I began researching, and over time grew convinced that with the right land, genetics, and care — and by letting our cattle roam freely — we could create a happier herd and a more consistent, flavorful product.”
Gordon approached local fourth-generation rancher, Will Densberger, who had been leasing property at Ghost Donkey Ranch to raise Black Angus, and together they founded Knights Valley Wagyu in 2018, starting with 100% full-blood champion genetics.
“The vision was simple,” Gordon says. “Raise the very best Wagyu we could, and share it only with chefs we admired, within bicycling distance of the ranch.”
Alex Fuentes, Head Chef of Special Projects, uses Knights Valley Wagyu beef three ways at SingleThread in Healdsburg, Sept. 19, 2025. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Starting with Connaughton, they assembled an all-star coterie of local chefs, including Matthew Kammerer at Harbor House Inn in Elk, Sean and Melissa McGaughey at Troubadour Bread and Bistro in Healdsburg, Elliot Bell at Charlie’s in St. Helena, and David Hopps at Izakaya Gama in Point Arena. Instead of working with celebrity chefs who lend their names to countless franchise operations, he says, “I wanted to work with chefs who still work in their own kitchens. These are chefs who have devoted their lives to their craft, and we want to help them. We want to restore that relationship with the local food community.”
The exclusive invitation to experiment with local Wagyu was irresistible. Wagyu has always carried a certain mystique, an edible status symbol with A5 Wagyu on the same level as caviar and truffles, selling for as high as several hundred dollars for a 6-ounce cut. The first taste is often a near-religious experience. Sean McGaughey’s initiation was a slice of Miyazaki A5 at a Charlie Trotter restaurant in Las Vegas.
“I remember how two or three bites in, it gets your cheeks watering and endorphins going, and your smile happens just because of the caveman in you,” says the Troubadour chef.
Then there’s the buttery, textural mouth feel that comes from super-rich intramuscular fat that marbles like no other beef in the world.”
Alex Fuentes, Head Chef of Special Projects, sears the Knights Valley Wagyu over coals at SingleThread in Healdsburg, Sept. 19, 2025. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Alex Fuentes, Head Chef of Special Projects, uses Knights Valley Wagyu beef three ways at SingleThread in Healdsburg, Sept. 19, 2025. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
“I feel like the term ‘melt in your mouth’ gets thrown around a lot in the culinary scene, and it’s very rare that it actually melts in your mouth,” says Hopps, who found it to be accurate when he first tasted Wagyu at a sushi restaurant in Salt Lake City. “It’s just so tender because the way the beef is marbled. It’s like chewing on butter almost.”
Part of the exclusivity is by design. The history of Wagyu beef runs deep in Japan, going back thousands of years to original bloodlines. The word “Wagyu” literally means “Japanese cow.”
By 1910, the country’s government had banned cross-breeding with Wagyu. Since 1966, the “Wagyu Olympics” has been held every five years to decide champion cattle based on genetics and meat quality. In 1997, Japan finally banned the export of Wagyu cattle, declaring it a national treasure. Since then, there have been cautionary tales about Wagyu semen smugglers, black-market egg and embryo sales, and knockoff crossbred beef trying to pass as 100% Wagyu. In America, Australia, and New Zealand, Wagyu has been raised with varying success.
A herd of 100% Japanese Wagyu cattle Wednesday, Oct. 6, 2025, on a ranch owned by Adam Gordon at the base of Mount St. Helena in the Alexander Valley. The herd are grass-fed but get supplemental feed during the dry summer months. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
At Knights Valley, Gordon consulted a Wagyu nutritionist from Texas, who helped them start with 10 full-blood heifers, 10 full-blood yearling steers, and a young bull. For Densberger, who had never raised Wagyu cattle, the holistic approach was an extension of what he learned from his grandfather, who ran cattle on the St. Helena’s Connolly Polled Hereford Ranch, where Will was born.
“My grandfather didn’t own a horse and didn’t throw a rope. Everything was done super-stress-free,” says Densberger, who also works in real estate, selling larger ranches, vineyards, and farms.
With the Knights Valley Wagyu, Densberger applies the same methods. “I don’t throw a rope either. I don’t own a hot shot. I don’t ever try to introduce stress to the cattle because they’re much more difficult to handle, and the adrenaline runs through their system. I don’t think it is particularly healthy, especially for cattle that we’re going to be consuming at some point.”
In Japan, where land is limited, Wagyu are more likely to be penned or restricted in tight spaces for most of their lives, rather than roaming wide-open spaces. They’re often fed a heavy grain diet to boost fat content. In Knights Valley, Wagyu cows are grass-fed, with a small herd of around 80 roaming freely across more than 200 acres.
Wagyu cattle arrive for their morning feeding at a ranch in Knights Valley between Healdsburg and Calistoga. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Five years ago, after the first of the Knights Valley herd was harvested, SingleThread held a blind Wagyu beef tasting for a handful of chefs. Connaughton fired up the whole hearth on a Saturday morning as the rest of the staff prepped for dinner that night. The contenders included Wagyu beef raised in Japan, Australia, New Zealand, and two American offerings — Knights Valley Wagyu and Snake River Farms Wagyu from Idaho. They sampled all rib-eyes, looking closely at different slices, the various marbling, and talking about texture and mouth feel.
By the end, the decision was unanimous, Gordon says. “All the chefs preferred all of our cuts.”
It might not go down as the Judgment of Healdsburg, but it was definitely a sign they were on to something. For Connaughton, Knights Valley Wagyu cuts were leaner, less fatty, and more distinctive. “The flavor is so much higher, the beautiful beef flavor that really comes with the grass feeding,” he says. “I think that is the true flavor of the animal. And then you obviously notice that it’s still quite rich and marbled.”
SingleThread in Healdsburg uses Knights Valley Wagyu beef in a skewer, broth and main dish Sept. 19, 2025. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
For guests accustomed to the super-rich, “melt in your mouth” experience of A5 Wagyu, the locally raised version is a different experience and requires some education. “If you tell someone this is 100% Wagyu and you stop there, and they have experiences with it, they’ll say, ‘But this is not very good beef. This is not rich, melt-in-my-mouth, fatty A5 goodness.’ So, it’s our job to tell the story properly and accurately,” says Connaughton. “And I find when I talk to guests and I say, ‘This is what we do, and this is what the result is,’ and then they have it in a dish, they’re like, ‘Oh, I love that. That was really delicious, but it wasn’t so greasy and rich.’”
Seven years after launching, Gordon and Densberger aren’t looking to scale much further beyond 20 mother cows. One-to-two animals are harvested each month and are shared among the chefs who each receive designated cuts. At SingleThread, Connaughton often grills rib cuts simply in the hearth, sometimes braising short ribs and roasting the marrow as part of a rice porridge. Other times, he’ll use the tenderloin for a Wagyu shabu-shabu hot pot, the thin slices of beef cooked in boiling broth at the table. At Troubadour, McGaughey gets three cases a month of mostly top, bottom, and eye rounds from the legs, roasting the meat for two days to make roast beef sandwiches, sometimes topped off with a banh mi garnish, other times serving it Chicago Italian beef-style. At Izakaya Gama, Hopps gets mostly organs, like hearts and tongues, that he grills on bamboo skewers over a high heat Kushiyaki-style, serving them with Karashi mustard. Leaving nothing to waste, he uses the bones to make a gyukotsu ramen broth.
Adam Gordon walks the pasture on his ranch at the base of Mount St. Helena in Knights Valley. (John Troxell)
Near the end of his walk around the ranch, Gordon points out recent owl and otter sightings, and where his pet donkeys live year-round, then starts to think about what awaits him when he returns to New York. His business partner, Robert De Niro, is currently filming “Meet the Fockers 4” at Wildflower Studios. The state-of-the-art film complex in Queens is a project Gordon collaborated on from concept to completion as managing partner at Wildflower Ltd. The company, which also creates e-commerce logistics centers and EV charging stations, has a solar footprint generating 1.2 million kilowatt-hours of power annually.
For a kid who grew up in Dayton, Ohio, interning at the Audubon Center in middle school, and later working at a museum of natural history — it’s been quite a journey.
When people find out “the least likely rancher” they know is raising American Wagyu, they often ask to try a cut. “One of my oldest friends just texted me. He’s like, ‘I’m in the Hamptons, would you send me some Wagyu?’ I said, no, you have to come out and visit.”
Gordon points out it’s not a mail-order company and was never intended to be. “Every day we have to support our local chefs,” he says.
So when De Niro asked for a taste not long ago, he didn’t consider making an exception?
“No. Because if you open the door a crack, then everybody wants in.”
Pick’s Roadside, the iconic Cloverdale burger spot, reopens in January 2026. (Pick’s Roadside)
The century-old Pick’s Drive-In, a Cloverdale landmark for generations, will reopen in mid-January after months of renovation by Anidel Hospitality, the Sonoma-based company founded by entrepreneur Chris Fanini. The group specializes in breathing new life into historic properties, including the Sonoma Cheese Factory and Lake Tahoe’s Chambers Landing.
Often cited as the oldest drive-in in California, Pick’s — soon to be renamed Pick’s Roadside — traces its roots to the early 1920s. It originally opened in 1923 as Reed and Bell’s Root Beer Stand, a regional franchisee of A&W Root Beer, founded by Lewis Reed and H.C. Bell. In the early 1950s, Mayo and Johnie Mae Pickard purchased the roadside stand and renamed it Pick’s Drive-In.
While the paper trail gets a little fuzzy when it comes to Pick’s claim as the “oldest,” there’s no doubt about its century-long evolution from roadside pit stop to full-fledged drive-in, serving burgers, fries and frosty mugs to generations of farmers, families and travelers.
Burgers, shakes and Cokes are the staples at Pick’s Drive-in, downtown Cloverdale Tuesday, June 14, 2022. The Cloverdale landmark will reopen in January 2026 as Pick’s Roadside. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
The new menu will stick closely to the classics — burgers, milkshakes, root beer floats and fries. But this being Sonoma County, burgers will be made with premium Wagyu beef and optional ingredient upgrades will be available. The drink list will include a curated selection of wine and beer. Maybe most importantly, Pick’s much-loved red relish is making a return.
“Our goal was to create the best burger in Sonoma County,” said Anidel managing director John Wittig.
When the business was put up for sale in 2024, its future was uncertain. Anidel Hospitality saw an opportunity to revive, rather than raze, a piece of Cloverdale’s history.
“Pick’s has always been more than just a restaurant,” said Amber Lanier, a fifth-generation Cloverdale resident and general manager of Pick’s Roadside, in a June interview. “It’s a gathering spot, a piece of history and a place that has shaped the memories of so many in Cloverdale.”
Amber Lanier, a fifth-generation Cloverdale resident and general manager of Pick’s Roadside. The iconic Cloverdale burger spot reopens in January 2026. (Pick’s Roadside)
This may be just the beginning of Anidel Hospitality’s focus on historic Cloverdale projects, according to Wittig.
“We want an active role in the revitalization of Cloverdale. We have a couple of businesses in mind,” he said. The company has already revived Sonoma’s historic Cheese Factory and purchased Sonoma’s Best Modern Mercantile from embattled developer Ken Mattson.
“The majority of investors don’t want the complexity of these historical buildings — and we have experience handling them. We see so much opportunity here,” said Wittig.
Cloverdale, a town of nearly 9,000, has shared the fate of many highway bypass communities, slipping off the radar after Highway 101 was rerouted in the 1990s. The old Redwood Highway once ran through the heart of downtown, delivering a steady stream of travelers to local shops and restaurants before traffic sped past instead.
More details on Pick’s planned Jan. 10 opening are expected soon.
The Failla Wines tasting room in a cottage on 11 acres Thursday, Dec. 4, 2025 along the Silverado Trail north of St. Helena. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
What’s a Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir and Chardonnay specialist doing holed up in an old hunting cabin along Napa Valley’s Silverado Trail? Is it infiltration into enemy territory? An effort to provide visitors with palate cleansers between big Napa Cabs? There’s no need to question Failla’s motivation — just sit back and enjoy their beautifully made, cool-climate wines.
The story
Founder and winemaker Ehren Jordan, a Pittsburgh native, didn’t grow up in a wine-drinking family. His vinous path began unexpectedly during his college years at George Washington University in D.C., where he studied art history and took a job stocking shelves at a wine-and-spirits shop — mainly for the beer discounts. That gig led to a post-graduation role with a Denver wine distributor, and later to Il Poggio restaurant in Aspen. His enthusiasm for wine quickly propelled him to the position of restaurant manager and wine buyer.
A nudge from an Aspen friend steered Jordan toward a summer job as a tour guide at Joseph Phelps Vineyards, where he soon worked his way into the cellar. Looking to deepen his production skills, he then headed to France’s Rhône Valley to work with renowned winemaker Jean-Luc Columbo.
The Failla Wines tasting room has a cozy feeling with isolated tasting rooms Thursday, Dec. 4, 2025, along the Silverado Trail north of St. Helena. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
When Jordan returned to California in 1994, his former Phelps boss, Bruce Neyers, tapped him to be the founding winemaker at Neyers Vineyards. Though Jordan worked for free, he received a stake in the business. He also did side work for Helen Turley and bonded with her brother, Larry, who recruited Jordan to lead winemaking at Turley Wine Cellars in 1996. Around the same time, Jordan purchased a Sonoma Coast property near Cazadero and planted it to Syrah, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
In 1998, Jordan and his wife Anne-Marie Failla (pronounced FAY-lah) launched their own label — initially called Failla-Jordan — focused on cool-climate wines. Jordan sold his stake in Neyers in 2003 to build a winery in St. Helena, just a five-minute drive from Turley, where he originally made the Failla wines, and near his home in Calistoga. The tasting room opened in 2010.
The Failla Wines tasting room has a cozy feeling with isolated tasting rooms Thursday, Dec. 4, 2025, along the Silverado Trail north of St. Helena. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)The Failla Wines tasting room has a cozy feeling with isolated tasting rooms Thursday, Dec. 4, 2025, along the Silverado Trail north of St. Helena. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The vibe
The Failla tasting room is set inside a cozy cabin built in 1920, previously owned by Napa Valley chef Cindy Pawlcyn, of Mustard’s fame. The place is cozy and homey, with knotted-wood walls and ceilings, and a stone hearth decorated with antlers. Tastings take place in a couple of living room seating areas (if you’d like a pretty view of a Zinfandel vineyard, request a spot near the front window). There’s also casual outdoor seating on the front porch and in Adirondack chairs under some redwoods on the front lawn.
On the palate
Though Jordan tends to stick with a handful of grape varieties, he loves to experiment with different site expressions based on climates and soil types. His winemaking vessels of choice tend to be egg-shaped concrete fermenters and neutral oak, so fruit and place take the lead.
The 2023 Jurassic Park Chenin Blanc from Santa Ynez Valley ($45), fermented in concrete, is a crisp and lovely wine with lively acidity and notes of green apple and citrus. The 2023 Olivia Sonoma Coast Chardonnay ($48) has fresh, lemony aromas and tropical fruit flavors. With bright aromas of red fruits — think raspberries — the 2023 Lola Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($48) is a juicy wine with a medium body and pencil shaving notes.
The Failla Wines tasting room features small batch Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah Thursday, Dec. 4, 2025, along the Silverado Trail north of St. Helena. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)For a unique experience Failla Wines offers tastings in the cave Thursday, Dec. 4, 2025, along the Silverado Trail north of St. Helena. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Tastings range from $65 for a seated tasting in the lodge to $90 for a cave tasting to $150 for a library tasting of selections from the winery’s private cellar, with vintages dating back to 1998.
Beyond the bottle
If you haven’t yet made it to the Julia Child exhibit at the Napa Valley Museum of Arts & Culture — also known as “The MAC” — you still have until March 2026 to check it out. The playful, interactive showing even includes faux simmering pots that exude simulated aromas from Julia’s signature recipes when you lift the lids.
Failla Wines is open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily by appointment. 3530 Silverado Trail N., St. Helena, 707-963-0530, faillawines.com
Tina Caputo is a wine, food, and travel journalist who contributes to Sonoma magazine, SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, Northern California Public Media, KQED, and more. Follow her on Bluesky at @winebroad.bsky.social, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.