Buzz Builds Around Acre Pizza in Sebastopol Following Dave Portnoy Review

Sailor, left, and Lila Burt of Sebastopol check out the pizza varieties while their parent order at Acre Pizza in Sebastopol’s Barlow district. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

A visit by Dave Portnoy, the social media personality and founder of Barstool Sports, has left the workers at Acre Pizza in Sebastopol answering a lot of phone calls about its award-winning cheese pizza slice Portnoy reviewed in a June 6 social media post.

Portnoy was in Wine Country because he was “doing the wine thing” and in the Russian River Valley because he’s a Pinot Noir fan, according to the post.

Acre was recommended to him by Paul and Kathryn Sloan, owners of Sebastopol’s Small Vines, which Portnoy visited and called “the hidden secret of the century” and the “best Pinot Noir in the world.”

Portnoy’s One-Bite Pizza Review YouTube channel has 1.46 million subscribers and the Acre Pizza review has over 111,000 views. Portnoy also has more than 5.6 million followers on Instagram and 4.4 million followers on TikTok.

 

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A post shared by Dave Portnoy (@stoolpresidente)

After his signature single bite, Portnoy called the pizza “a little floppy” and despite having what he described as “9,000 bottles or glasses of red wine,” he called the pizza “pretty good.” He gave the pizza a 7.7/10, taking into account he’s had “eight bottles of wine.”

Acre owner and founder Steve DeCosse said in a Monday interview with The Press Democrat that he’s been following Portnoy for years on social media and called him “the number one pizza reviewer in the world.”

A surprise Portnoy visit

“It was Memorial Day when he showed up, so I was all panicked, sick to my stomach, I had no idea of the quality of the pizza he had,” DeCosse said. “When he did 7.7 I was so relieved. I was so concerned about a low score.”

Portnoy began his review with confusion surrounding the type of pizza that Acre serves (and confusion surrounding the pronunciation of “Sebastopol”), so DeCosse set the record straight. In addition to several Detroit-style offerings, Acre, which also has locations in Cotati and Petaluma, makes a “neo-New York”-style pizza with a signature fermented dough. Their pizza is not Neapolitan.

Specialty pizza at Acre Pizza
Specialty pizza at with broccoli raab, whole milk mozzarella and WM Cofield blue cheese. (Heather Irwin)
Detroit-style pizza at Acre Pizza in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin)
Detroit-style pizza at Acre Pizza in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin)

The Portnoy effect has been tangible, with DeCosse saying the local pizza chain has seen 87,000 views to its Instagram page and that he has reconnected with people he hasn’t spoken to in decades as a result of the review. Also, a lot of people want to know about that cheese pizza Portnoy raved about. “We’ve had a lot of phone calls asking when we open. A lot of people asking, ‘do you have the cheese slice?’” he said.

The pizzeria is a labor of love for DeCosse, who opened the restaurant in February 2020. DeCosse collaborated with consultant Alastair “The Pizza Buddha” Hannmann to source the freshest ingredients for the restaurant.

DeCosse got his start in pizza when he was 14 years old, living in the Ozarks where he worked at a pizza parlor. He became manager of that place at 16, according to a 2020 interview with The Press Democrat.

As for the famed cheese pizza, “We’ve been working on it for years,” he said. The hard work has paid off, with Acre winning first place in 2023 for the Southwest Region at the International Pizza Expo in Las Vegas.

Inside the Small Vines winery tasting room in Sebastopol. (Sonoma County Tourism)
Inside the Small Vines winery tasting room in Sebastopol. (Sonoma County Tourism)

Pinot and pizza perfect Portnoy pairing

The pizza spot is also a favorite of the Sloans of Small Vines. “We’re organic farmers and try to only eat pizza with really good ingredients,” Kathryn Sloan said.

Sloan, who started Small Vines along with her husband in 2005, said Portnoy’s visit was, “Exciting and surprising. A big win for all of us [in Sonoma County].”

Since Portnoy’s rave review, Sloan said the winery has seen a “major spike” in website traffic and wine sales.

Portnoy mentioned several Sonoma County wineries in his post, including Kistler Vineyards in Forestville, Merry Edwards Winery and Kosta Browne Winery in Sebastopol, and DuMOL Winery in Windsor.

“He [Portnoy] was a really nice human, and he cares about people and small businesses … I think that’s why he did what he did,” said Sloan.

Sebastopol Acre Pizza, 6761 McKinley St Suite 150, Sebastopol, 707-827-3455, acrepizza.com

You can reach intern Rosemary Cromwell at 707-521-5220 or rosemary.cromwell@pressdemocrat.com.  On Instagram @rjc.img.

Sonoma County Celebrates Pride with Local Flavor

In June, rainbow flags ripple across the vineyards and towns of Sonoma County, a region that is known not just for its food and wine but also for its embrace of LGBTQ+ culture.

Pride Month festivities are underway, and across the county, chefs, winemakers and community groups are hosting dinners, wine tastings and other culinary extravaganzas to celebrate and advocate for the LGBTQ+ community.

Looking to join the party and show your support? Here are some standout events to check out this month.

A toast to inclusivity, visibility

In 2008, Gary Saperstein founded Out in the Vineyard, a Sonoma-based event company aimed at cultivating inclusive experiences in Wine Country. At the time, few in the local wine industry considered the LGBTQ+ community a key demographic. That has changed significantly.

According to Professionals With Pride, Sonoma County’s LGBTQIA+ Chamber of Commerce, the region is home to the second-largest population of LGBTQIA+ households in the United States.

Master of Ceremonies Gary Saperstein welcomes guests to the 15th annual Trashion Fashion Runway Show on Saturday, April 19, 2025, in Sonoma. (Nicholas Vides / For The Press Democrat)
Master of Ceremonies Gary Saperstein welcomes guests to the 15th annual Trashion Fashion Runway Show in Sonoma. Photo taken on Saturday, April 19, 2025. (Nicholas Vides / For The Press Democrat)

Saperstein, a longtime hospitality professional, now organizes year-round events that raise funds and foster a greater sense of community. This year’s lineup of events has included “Martini Madness” at the Lodge at Sonoma and the 15th annual “Trashion Fashion Runway Show” at the Sonoma Community Center, where participants model garments made from recycled materials.

In May, the Out in the Vineyard Pink Sonoma Rosé Wine Fest at Viansa Winery in Sonoma combined food, wine and drag performances. Earlier this month, the organization helped organize the Sonoma Valley Pride Festival at Sonoma City Hall and the Plaza.

Sister Bertha Sinn of the Dallas-Fort Worth Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence attends the Pink Sonoma Rose Wine Fest at Viansa Winery in Sonoma Sunday, May 4, 2025. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Sister Bertha Sinn of the Dallas-Fort Worth Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence attends the Pink Sonoma Rose Wine Fest at Viansa Winery in Sonoma. Photo taken Sunday, May 4, 2025. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Upcoming events

Next, Out in the Vineyard heads to San Francisco on June 14 for the 5th Annual Pride Wine Fest at The Academy, an LGBTQ+ social club in the Castro District. Participating wineries include Healdsburg’s MacRostie Winery and Geyserville’s Mercury Wine. Chef Chad Carlstedt of Classic Culinaire will provide hors d’oeuvres.

“This year — maybe more than ever — Pride means something deeper,” said Saperstein. “We’re living through a time when our rights, our identities — especially those of our trans friends — and even our existence are being challenged.

“Coming together as a community is where we find our joy, it is where we regain our power and resilience,” he added.

Details: Fifth Annual Pride Wine Fest, The Academy, 2166 Market St., San Francisco, academy-sf.com. Tickets are $87.13, including service fees. More Out in the Vineyard events here: outinthevineyard.com.

Cloverdale’s first Pride week

In northern Sonoma County, the charming small town of Cloverdale will host its first official Pride Week with three days of programming on June 12, 13 and 15.

The celebration begins with a “Pride Happy Hour” from 3-6 p.m. June 12 at The Beet Restaurant and Wine Bar, where owners Andrew Radabaugh, Alessandra Ziviani and Kristi Shehan will offer discounts on the global wine and food menu.

Butternut Squash and Swiss Chard Frittata with Little Gem Salad and a Mimosa for brunch at the Beet Restaurant and Wine Shop Friday, September 13, 2024 in Cloverdale. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
A frittata with little gem salad and a mimosa for brunch at The Beet Restaurant in Cloverdale. The Beet will host a “Pride Happy Hour” on June 12. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Guests will then head over to the Cloverdale Performing Arts Center for a 6 p.m. reception and a screening of the 1994 cult drag film “The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert.” Tickets are $25, including wine, light bites and the film.

“Pride means honoring the strength, joy, and resilience of our queer team members who help make this place so vibrant,” said Radabaugh of The Beet. “We’re proud to be a space where everyone is welcome, supported and celebrated — especially on our Friday night dance floors where the beats are loud and the love is louder.”

On June 13, the town’s regular “Friday Night Live” street fair and summer concert series at the downtown plaza will feature a live performance by Banda Pacifica from 7 p.m., followed by one of the epic dance parties at The Beet, with drinks and DJ hits. Admission is free, and the kitchen stays open until midnight (or later).

The retail wine section focuses on eclectic local choices as well as international labels at the Beet Restaurant and Wine Shop Friday, September 13, 2024 in Cloverdale. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The retail wine section at The Beet in Cloverdale focuses on eclectic local choices as well as international labels. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

The week concludes on June 15 with a “Drag Bingo Brunch” from 1 to 4 p.m. at La Tequila Restaurant. Tickets are $40 and include two bingo cards. Foods and drinks will be sold separately, with proceeds supporting the renovation of the The Cloverdale Arts Alliance Art Gallery.

Details: The Beet, 116 E. First St., cloverdalebeet.com. Cloverdale Performing Arts Center, 209 N. Cloverdale Blvd., cloverdaleperformingarts.com. Friday Night Live on the Downtown Plaza, 112 Broad St., cloverdaleartsalliance.org/fnlmusic. La Tequila Restaurant, 134 N. Cloverdale Blvd., mexicanrestaurantcloverdale.com

Soup as solidarity

One of the month’s most heartfelt gatherings may be the Queer Soup Night from 3-6 p.m. June 22, to be held The Punchdown Bottle Shop + Wine Bar in Sebastopol.

Launched in 2017 by Brooklyn chef and cookbook author Liz Alpern in response to Donald Trump’s 2016 election, Queer Soup Night has grown into a nationwide grassroots network centered on community care, solidarity and support — especially at a time when the LGBTQ+ community and other marginalized groups face increasing threats.

Sonoma County’s first Queer Soup Night is being organized by chef Preeti Mistry, a James Beard Award nominee and former “Top Chef” contestant, and award-winning chef Leah Scurto of PizzaLeah in Windsor. Bay Area-based photographer Sarah Deragon and trans activist E. Samuell MacLaughlin also helped to organize the event.

Chef Preeti Mistry in the Bubble Room of J Vineyards & Winery in Healdsburg, Wednesday, Sept. 13, 2023. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Chef Preeti Mistry in the Bubble Room of J Vineyards & Winery in Healdsburg, Wednesday, Sept. 13, 2023. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Leah Scurto, co-owner and executive pizza maker, at PizzaLeah in Windsor, on Wednesday, May 27, 2020. (Beth Schlanker)
Leah Scurto, co-owner and executive pizza maker at PizzaLeah in Windsor, on Wednesday, May 27, 2020. (Beth Schlanker)

The concept is brilliant in its simplicity: The chefs serve as hosts for the evening, serving comforting soups to anyone craving a “culinary hug.” Money raised from “suggested donations” benefits Positive Images, a Sonoma County LGBTQ+ youth nonprofit . (Donations will be accepted at the door on a sliding scale, but no one will be turned away for lack of funds.)

There is no RSVP required for this event, but guests are encouraged to bring their own spoon (or BYOS).

Details: The Punchdown, 6770 McKinley St., Suite 130 (in The Barlow), Sebastopol, 707-827-3483, pdne.ws/4jHXtqe

At Martin Ray, a flag raised high

Every June for the past 16 years, a rainbow flag has flown from the tall water tower at Martin Ray Vineyards & Winery in northwest Santa Rosa. It has become such a powerful presence and a tradition so central to the winery’s identity that it inspired Leslie Mead Renaud, director of winemaking, to join the team “six harvests ago.” She was drawn not only to the winery’s beautiful property and elegant wines, but, perhaps most importantly, to its inclusive ethics, she explained.

Every June for the past 16 years, a rainbow flag has flown from the tall water tower at Martin Ray Vineyards & Winery in northwest Santa Rosa. The winery celebrates Pride Month with a series of Pride & Pizza events. (Martin Ray Vineyards & Winery)
Every June, a rainbow flag flies from the water tower at Martin Ray Vineyards & Winery in northwest Santa Rosa. The winery celebrates Pride Month with a series of Pride & Pizza events. (Martin Ray Vineyards & Winery)

“I’d driven past the place for years, and always thought that it is so cool that they actually do that (raise the rainbow flag high each year),” she said. “Someone has to climb all the way up the water tower.”

The winery is owned by Courtney Benham, who also leads the CMB Family of Wines. Each year, a member of the Benham family raises the rainbow flag.

“It’s a symbol of who we are as a winery and as members of the Sonoma County community,” said Benham. “(It is) a sign of inclusion, respect and allyship with the LGBTQ+ community … We’re proud to continue creating a space where everyone feels seen, supported and celebrated.”

Upcoming events
Every June for the past 16 years, a rainbow flag has flown from the tall water tower at Martin Ray Vineyards & Winery in northwest Santa Rosa. The winery celebrates Pride Month with a series of Pizza & Pride events. (Martin Ray Vineyards & Winery)
Martin Ray Vineyards & Winery in northwest Santa Rosa celebrates Pride Month with a series of Pizza & Pride events. (Martin Ray Vineyards & Winery)

Through Aug. 2, Martin Ray will host its “Pizza at the Winebar” series every Saturday, offering Neapolitan-style wood-fired pizza, wine and salad in the garden courtyard. Tickets are $18 (plus a $1 Tock fee) and include a splash of wine and a salad, with pizzas and additional wine available for purchase à la carte. It can be family-friendly, too, with custom tickets for guests under 21 years old. Reserve a time at 11:30 a.m., noon., 1:30 p.m., or 2 p.m.

On June 28, the winery will host its “Pride & Pizza” party, with $10 from each $30 ticket benefiting Positive Images.

Details: Martin Ray Vineyards & Winery, 2191 Laguna Road, Santa Rosa, 707-908- 8993, martinraywinery.com

Healdsburg’s Jimtown Store Reopens with a Fresh Flavor and Familiar Charm

The Jimtown Store in Healdsburg on Saturday, Dec. 21, 2019. The landmark Jimtown Store closed Dec. 30, 2019, and reopened under new management in 2025. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

After closing in late 2019, the historic Jimtown Store is set to reopen June 10 with a new name and under new ownership. Michelle Wood, owner of the catering company Dim Sum and Then Sum, purchased the property nearly 18 months ago and formally took over from longtime owner Carrie Brown in late 2023.

Wood, who previously worked as a lab manager before shifting to full-time catering in 2021, began using the space for pop-ups and as a home base for her company, which is known for handmade Chinese dishes like dumplings, steamed buns and spring rolls inspired by her family recipes.

But it wasn’t her interest in cooking that first brought Wood to Jimtown. Instead, she said she fell in love with the historic Highway 128 outpost as a cyclist. With few food options in the immediate area, Jimtown had long been a popular mid-ride rest stop for riders who sipped and snacked while taking in Alexander Valley view.

A classic menu with a twist

The forthcoming menu at Wood’s Jimtown and Then Sum will include breakfast pastries, classic sandwiches and salads along with a selection of dim sum.

Jimtown and Then Sum
Shrimp and pork shumai in a bamboo steamer from Michelle Wood, the new owner of Jimtown Store, at her home in Santa Rosa, Friday, Jan. 24, 2025. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

The Highway 128 store first opened in 1893 as a post office, general store and gathering place for residents of the Alexander Valley.

Jimtown’s modern era began in 1991, when Carrie Brown and her late husband, John Werner, took over the space. It became an offbeat destination for visitors who enjoyed Brown’s eclectic collection of toys, candies and housewares. Locals came for sandwiches, Brown’s famous Chain Gang Chili and neighborhood gossip.

More details coming soon.

Jimtown and Then Sum, 6706 Highway 128, Healdsburg, jimtown.com

Geometric House With Unique Modern Design Offers Dramatic Views in Santa Rosa

This modern three-bedroom, one-bathroom home on 3.36 acres in Santa Rosa is currently listed for $1,999,000. (Open Homes Photography)
This modern three-bedroom, one-bathroom home on 3.36 acres in Santa Rosa is currently listed for $1,999,000. (Open Homes Photography)

On 3.36 acres of oak tree-studded land in Santa Rosa is a unique modern home listed for $1,999,000. The three-bedroom and one-bathroom dwelling is unusually shaped and aptly known as the “geometric house” or the “house of angles.”

Designed by Ken O’Connor, the dwelling has walls of glass windows providing dramatic two-story views of property, which includes a half-acre vineyard of Chardonnay grapes.

Dining room in the geometric house. (Open Homes Photography)
Dining room in the geometric house. (Open Homes Photography)
Kitchen in geometric house
Kitchen with eye-catching angles in the geometric house. (Open Homes Photography)

The home has a separate dining room, a lofted primary bedroom and multiple alcove decks with views — one of which includes a spa. The home also has access to the hiking and equestrian trails that are part of neighboring Safari West — a 400-acre wildlife preserve often referred to as the “Sonoma Serengeti.”

For more information on 10045 Loch Haven Drive, Santa Rosa, contact listing agent Rachel Swann, 415-225-7743, Coldwell Banker Realty, swanngroupsf.com/properties/10045-loch-haven-drive-santa-rosa-ca-us-95404-325020147

Following a String of Lukewarm Reviews, French Laundry Named Top ‘Cult-Favorite Restaurant’

The French Laundry in Yountville Monday, April 21, 2025. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

Chef Thomas Keller’s renowned Yountville restaurant, The French Laundry, has been named California’s ‘best cult-favorite restaurant’ by food review site LoveFood.com — a nod to the enduring appeal of the three Michelin-starred establishment despite its famously steep prices and a recent string of lukewarm reviews for The French Laundry and Keller’s Per Se restaurant in New York City.

According to the U.K.-based food review and recipe website, The French Laundry “changed the game of modern American fine dining back in the 1990s — and people still talk about (it) in admiring tones.”

The LoveFood list was compiled based on a combination of user reviews, industry awards, accolades and firsthand experiences by the site’s editorial team. California landed two additional entries on the list: Chez Panisse in Berkeley and The Ranch House in Ojai.

From glowing reviews to recent criticism

Operating under Keller since 1994, The French Laundry has long been considered a pinnacle of American fine dining. The Michelin Guide — which awards the restaurant its highest three-star rating — defines such establishments as offering “exceptional cuisine worth a special journey.”

The restaurant, originally opened in 1978 by Don and Sally Schmidt, features a daily-changing tasting menu, often updated twice a day based on what’s freshly harvested from its culinary garden.

Following decades of mostly glowing reviews, The French Laundry and Keller’s Per Se restaurant have received some biting criticism over the past few years.

In 2016, The New York Times critic Pete Wells described a mushroom soup at Keller’s New York restaurant Per Se “as murky and unappealing as bong water.”

A recent follow-up review by Times food columnist Melissa Clark, published Nov. 26, 2024, echoed Wells’ concerns, calling both Per Se and The French Laundry overpriced and past their prime.

Clark’s critique gained particular notoriety after she confirmed to multiple outlets, including the San Francisco Chronicle, that she had been served mushroom soup from a bong during her visit to The French Laundry — a wink to Wells’ earlier comment.

Then, in a May 19 San Francisco Chronicle article, food critic Mackenzie Chung Fegan recounted a recent visit to The French Laundry, during which Chef Thomas Keller initially asked her to leave — apparently unsettled by recent negative reviews, including a 2022 critique by her predecessor Soleil Ho, who wrote the restaurant was “no longer worth the splurge.”

After a 30-minute conversation, Keller invited Chung Fegan back, and she rejoined her party for the full tasting menu. Keller later attempted to comp the meal — an offer critics are prohibited from accepting. “It’s the ultimate display of power,” Chung Fegan wrote of the chef’s gesture; in the end, her party paid the full bill.

In a statement nearly a month after Chung Fegan’s visit, Keller said, “Ultimately, it was my responsibility to feed and nurture them. I think we did that, and they had a wonderful time from what we could tell.”

See the full list of restaurants at lovefood.com.

You can reach intern Rosemary Cromwell at rosemary.cromwell@pressdemocrat.com. On Instagram @rjc.img.

Solar Punk Farms Provides a Vision for a More Joyful, Sustainable Future

The space-age greenhouse, built by the couple with help from family, has become a local landmark in Guerneville. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

Nick Schwanz and Spencer Scott are living a vision for a more joyful and sustainable future. On their experimental land project in rural Guerneville, the couple demonstrates how a life that centers caring for the earth can be forward-thinking, delicious — and serve the wider community.

In early 2020, Nick and Spencer were living in San Francisco but dreamed of moving to a place where they could build a more thoughtful relationship to the natural world. They began to draw up a list of what that different life could look like, centering the importance of community and resilience. “We made this impossible list so that we wouldn’t do it,” jokes Spencer. “But then when we found this place, it definitely felt like, ‘OK, we’re in.’”

The place that captured their imagination was a 10-acre horse ranch that admittedly was in somewhat rough shape for a future regenerative farm — much of the front acreage was buried under a foot of compacted sand where a riding arena used to be. But it was right in Guerneville, with that town’s strongly rooted queer community, and the couple knew that with effort, the land could be remediated for vegetable beds and orchards. The property also boasted a small redwood grove, a house with enough space to host friends and family, and plenty of access to nearby wild spaces.

Solar Punk Farms
Nick and Spencer were married on the farm two summers ago. Their front porch is a gathering space for friends and family. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

“You have to fall in love with land to do a land project,” says Nick. “And there’s nowhere easier to fall in love with land in Northern California. We have the most diverse, the biggest, the most grand, the most sweeping natural ecosystems of anywhere in America. It’s just crazy how magical this place is.”

The couple moved to the farm in 2020. The first order of business? Tearing out the riding arena and building up soil and infrastructure to grow food. “The beginning was actually the easiest part,” says Spencer. “There was so much excitement, and we didn’t know how far we had to go.”

“We had that sprinter energy, like the beginning of a race where you come out of the gate fast,” laughs Nick.

Five years down the road, Solar Punk Farms is an ever-evolving demonstration of a vibrant, positive, inclusive, climate-first existence. With the help of Nick’s father, a master carpenter, they’ve refurbished the house and built a large chicken coop — and a magnificent, spiral, solarpunk-style greenhouse, which has become a local landmark.

Solar Punk Farms
The space-age greenhouse, built by the couple with help from family, has become a local landmark in Guerneville. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

Nick and Spencer are also selling produce to local restaurants, teaching schoolkids how to grow food, and giving away 40 cubic yards of compost a month in partnership with Zero Waste Sonoma. Support from Fulcrum Arts, which works with emerging organizations at the intersection of art and science, allowed the couple to hire their first full-time employee to assist with farming outreach and education. They’ve also hosted work parties, climate education talks, homemade brunches for local seniors, wine festivals and even a wedding — their own, on a hand-built stage in the redwood grove out back in the summer of 2023.

Spencer is currently finishing a book about living a climate-forward life, even as the couple continue to shape the vision for the project and work day jobs to keep afloat. “It’s always, ‘What’s the next thing?’ And I think that’s in our blood,” Spencer says. “Nick and I are always doing three jobs and working on three projects all at once.”

Sharing their work

Nick: People are sometimes surprised that this is our home. People will drive into our driveway sometimes, and we’ll just stop and give that random stranger a tour. What helps is that we’re both very passionate about sustainability and this project we’re working on. So it’s a joy to bring people along and make community around the thing we’re really passionate about.

Solar Punk Farms
Education outreach manager Hayley Dougan waters crops at Solar Punk Farms in Guerneville. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

Self-reliance vs. community reliance

Nick: A lot of people, when they think about homesteading, it’s often framed around self-reliance. That’s not what Solar Punk is all about. This is not self-reliance; this is community reliance. One of the chapters of Spencer’s book is called the myth of self-reliance. The idea is that it’s not about being isolationist and showing all the things that we can do on our own. It’s about showing that a project like this requires a ton of community.

The role of a farmer

Spencer: I think we’ve romanticized farming in a certain way that doesn’t give enough respect for how difficult it is. I want to say that in a very positive way. I mean that it’s important to respect how difficult it is to farm — and at the same time, it’s also great to have an herb garden on your windowsill. There are different levels of what farming and growing food means. You don’t need to be a farmer to be a voice within this larger climate and sustainability movement. It’s fun to grow food and eat your own food, but it’s also fun to support your local farmers who are already doing it well. That’s ultimately part of doing a project like this.

Nick and Spencer see their project as an important step in helping others engage with climate advocacy. That’s why outreach is such an important part of their work, including community work parties and demonstration gardens. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)
Nick and Spencer see their project as an important step in helping others engage with climate advocacy. That’s why outreach is such an important part of their work, including community work parties and demonstration gardens. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)
Solar Punk Farms
Solar Punk Farms’ Nick Schwanz, left, and Spencer Scott with new farming and education outreach manager Hayley Dougan, center. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

Part of something bigger

Nick: From a strategic lens, we’re these millennial, goofy, queer, dorky people, right? Which is behind many of the things we want to do here. So many on-ramps to the bigger climate movement have been depressing for way too long. Everything’s burning, you have to run away from this, etc. The wider solarpunk movement that we named the farm for was founded on the idea that the on-ramps need to be fun and beautiful and optimistic and inclusive and all of these things, because that’s what will get people to join.

On not always knowing what they’re doing

Nick: We’ve talked a lot about how we were just run-of-the-mill, everyday city people and now we are doing this project. And the learning is the point — we’re not doing it because we’re good at farming. We’re doing it because we want to learn how to do it. So expertise isn’t a barrier — that’s one of the messages we’re trying to get at. Not everybody is going to do a land project, not everybody lives in the country, a lot of people live in cities. Everybody’s got different backgrounds. But the climate movement desperately needs everybody involved in some capacity, and being good at something shouldn’t be the limiting factor. Learning how to be good at it should be part of what makes it enjoyable.

Nick Schwanz and Spencer Scott see their project as an important step in helping others engage with climate advocacy. That’s why outreach is such an important part of their work, including community work parties and demonstration gardens. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)
Nick and Spencer see their project as an important step in helping others engage with climate advocacy. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

Working at the speed of the land

Nick: My biggest awakening and shock with this project was needing to work on a different timeline than I was used to. We took a permaculture design class with Occidental Arts and Ecology Center, and on the last day, we were talking with the teacher, and I told him I’d learned that I really need to slow down. And the teacher said, ‘I’m glad that you called that out. I can tell you want stuff to move faster and be more in your control. And I can tell you, that’s not how a big land project is going to work.’ So it was a really big, energetic shift to a place where you are working at the speed of the land, and that’s fixed. You do as much as you can and then get excited for the next season.

Spencer: It’s been a battle to find a balance between staying motivated and not forgetting to be happy with where this place is at every stage along the way. It helps when people visit and they say, ‘You guys have done so much.’ Because there’s still so much more to do.

Nick and Spencer see their project as an important step in helping others engage with climate advocacy. That’s why outreach is such an important part of their work, including community work parties and demonstration gardens. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)
Outreach is an important part of Nick and Spencer’s work, including community work parties and demonstration gardens. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)
Solar Punk Farms
Nick and Spencer recently set up the farm as a community compost distribution site for Zero Waste Sonoma. Neighbors can visit and take home free compost to nurture their own gardens. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

Summer on the horizon

Nick: I know everybody says summers on the farm are when it’s really crazy. But for us, spring is super intense, when we’re cleaning and planning and planting and getting all this stuff done. And then June is when all of the investment of spring comes alive and we start to realize the fruits of that labor. The big kickoff to summer is now Big West Wine Fest, and that’s also when we start to do our fun little pool parties. And this year, the garden is going to be producing a ton.

Spencer: There are all these intentionally planted things, and you start getting the fun flowers that come up in the beds after the spring wildflowers finish. So it’s about helping out in the garden, making jam, making big meals with the vegetables. It’s so fun.

Nick: We’ve never had a June like this. There’s going to be so much bounty. This is the first time when I feel like we have enough people here to do it all and do it well, so we’re really excited about it. This is going to be like the unveiling year.

To learn more about regenerative farming, LGBTQ+-friendly work parties and local outreach programs, including free compost distribution, visit solarpunkfarms.com.

Solar Punk Farms hosts the third annual Big West Wine Fest natural wine gathering June 14 and 15. bigwestwinefest.com

Home of Late Williams-Sonoma CEO Hits the Market in Glen Ellen

This Glen Ellen-based home known as the “Williams Sonoma house”—which was owned by W. Howard Lester, the late president and CEO of the kitchenware brand—is currently listed for $9,250,000. (Zillow Media Experts / Sotheby’s International Realty)
This Glen Ellen home, known as the “Williams-Sonoma house” — which was owned by W. Howard Lester, the late president and CEO of the kitchenware brand — is currently listed for $9,250,000. (Zillow Media Experts / Sotheby’s International Realty)

The so-called “Williams-Sonoma House” — once owned by W. Howard Lester, the late president and CEO of the kitchenware brand — has recently hit the market. The three-bedroom, four-bathroom residence with a pool, spa and guest cabin on nearly 9 acres adjacent to Jack London State Historic Park in Glen Ellen is listed for $9,250,000. 

The updated circa-1975 home has an exciting take on modern farmhouse style beginning at the exterior. The board-and-batten cladding is painted a wonderfully farm barn-red. In the 6,018-square-feet of living space are grandly sized French doors, wood floors and vaulted ceilings.

Natural light and white walls give an airiness to the open floor plan, but the look is accented with a whimsical, if not gutsy, use of color. Accents in plum, red, forest, teal and sunshine yellow provide pleasing visual surprises throughout the space. The decor maintains all the tranquility of the typical neutral-palette farmhouse, but without the predictability. 

Enclosed patio off of great room. (Zillow Media Experts / Sotheby’s International Realty)
Enclosed patio off of great room. (Zillow Media Experts / Sotheby’s International Realty)
Lounging area. (Zillow Media Experts / Sotheby’s International Realty)
Lounging area. (Zillow Media Experts / Sotheby’s International Realty)

The great room is divided by a plum-hued raised panel wall with a fireplace. Dual red credenzas give a bold balance to the look. A hint of red is pulled into the adjacent dining area via a geometric glass pendant.

The kitchen has classic styling with marbles, tin tile ceilings and an ornamented hood. A lemony yellow on the cabinets gives the space an impossibly sweet vibrance.

More sunshiny yellow extends into the trim work of the main bedroom — an inspired choice given the use of brick around the fireplace and stained-wood slatted walls, which are typically paired with neutral colors.

Main bedroom. (Zillow Media Experts / Sotheby’s International Realty)
Main bedroom. (Zillow Media Experts / Sotheby’s International Realty)
Pool and spa. (Zillow Media Experts / Sotheby’s International Realty)
Pool and spa. (Zillow Media Experts / Sotheby’s International Realty)

Bathrooms each have their bold accents — brick-red cabinets in one, deep green and sage in others — that enliven the classic marbles and traditional fixtures with shaded sconces.

The park-like grounds include a pool and spa and several spots for al fresco dining, including one under an ancient oak tree. Hiking trails provide an opportunity to explore the lush acreage. The property’s pond can be enjoyed from the home’s deck and crossed via a footbridge. A modern and rustic creekside cabin can provide accommodations for some very lucky guests. 

For more information about this home at 1500 Morningside Mountain Road, contact listing agents Daniel Casabonne, 707-494-3130, 707-939-2222, or Gina Clyde, 707-529-8504, 707-935-2288, Sotheby’s International Realty – Wine Country – Sonoma Brokerage, sothebysrealty.com/eng/sales/detail/180-l-1188-q9kd7b/1500-morningside-mtn-road-glen-ellen-ca-95442

Where to Get the Best Doughnuts in Sonoma County

Doughnuts from Johnny Doughnuts, which will replace City Garden Doughnuts in Santa Rosa. Courtesy photo.

Whether you call ‘em doughnuts or donuts, like them jelly-filled or straight up glazed, it’s always time for these fried bits of heaven. But wasting calories on a day-old mess just isn’t worth it. Here are some of our favorite doughnuts in Sonoma County for National Doughnut Day (June 6) or any day of the year.

Special Doughnut Day Deals

Krispy Kreme, Rohnert Park: To celebrate National Doughnut Day, Krispy Kreme is offering a free doughnut — no purchase necessary. Guests will also get a dozen glazed doughnuts for just $2 with the purchase of any dozen at regular price. Look for the “Hot Light” neon sign from 7-10 a.m. and 6-11 p.m. every day to find out when doughnuts are at their freshest and get them delivered from 7:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. every day. 5090 Redwood Drive, Rohnert Park, 707-521-9154.

Dunkin’, Petaluma, Santa Rosa, Windsor: Customers can get a free doughnut with a purchase of a beverage on Friday. The first Sonoma County outpost of this East Coast and Midwest doughnut favorite arrived in Petaluma to the delight of transplants — it now also has locations in Santa Rosa and Windsor. In addition to their legendary coffee, they have doughnuts in every flavor of the rainbow. Because that’s what doughnuts are made of: rainbows and love. 435 N. McDowell Blvd. Suite 50, Petaluma; 138-A Calistoga Road, Santa Rosa; 2739 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa; 6650 Hembree Lane, Windsor.

Dunkin’s is also teaming up with luxury lifestyle brand Stoney Clover Lane for a “limited-edition, coffee-and-donuts — inspired collection,” available on National Doughnut Day.

A display case filled with doughnuts at Krispy Kreme in Rohnert Park, Tuesday, Nov. 6, 2018. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
A display case filled with doughnuts at Krispy Kreme in Rohnert Park, Tuesday, Nov. 6, 2018. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Johnny Doughnuts
A variety of doughnuts from Johnny Doughnuts in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy of Johnny Doughnuts)

More Doughnuts

Johnny Doughnuts, Santa Rosa: The brilliant successor to the much-loved City Garden Doughnuts is killing it with Crodoughs (a take on Cronuts, or croissant doughnuts), Bismarks (aka jelly doughnuts), cinnamon rolls, wheat-free doughnuts, vegan doughnuts and all the sprinkles you care to eat. 1200 Fourth Street, johnnydoughnuts.com.

Donuts & Bagel Cafe, Santa Rosa: Food-choosy friends swear this is the best doughnut café in town. Always packed. Jelly are a favorite. Doughnut holes are also awesome. Takeout only. 750 Stony Point Road, Santa Rosa, 707-284-1012. 

Tan’s Donut, Santa Rosa: A go-to for straight up office-worthy doughnuts. Don’t miss the buttermilk doughnut, a denser version of the glazed. The Guerneville Road location also serves up Cambodian cuisine. 1074 Fourth St. and 2550 Guerneville Road, Suite E, Santa Rosa.

Jelly Donut, Santa Rosa: Our favorite raspberry jelly doughnut. Open 24 hours. Plus cake doughnuts and a dozen doughnut holes for only $1.75. Enough said. Takeout only. 443 Dutton Ave., Suite 10, Santa Rosa, 707-544-8494. 

Andy’s Donuts & Bagels, Santa Rosa: The kind of doughnuts that can turn a rough morning around. “This has been my favorite donut store for years. I lived in that neighborhood over 10 years ago and still come here,” wrote Shannen R. on Yelp. “Staff are always friendly, donuts are always tasty, can’t go wrong,” added Nick. O, whose Yelp profile photo is, fittingly, Homer Simpson. 1784 Piner Road, Santa Rosa, 707-541-0877

Danish & Donuts, Sonoma: Crullers are a specialty at Sonoma’s Danish & Donuts, along with yeasty doughnuts with sprinkles and maybe a danish or two if you get there early. Takeout and delivery. Boston cremes get top billing. 18580 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma, 707-938-1333.

Keny’s Donuts, Petaluma: This doughnut shop has been around since 1984 and has been a favorite among Petaluma high-schoolers for decades and, more recently, doughnut-lovers on the Save Sonoma County Restaurants page. “This is not the hipster, organic doughnuts place … this is Sunday morning I want a good donut!” said Dara Krahne Peloquin. 202 Douglas St., Petaluma, Facebook.

Sunrise Donuts, Petaluma: Chocolate cake and blueberry doughnuts are special favorites at this neighborhood spot. “Boy, it’s safe to say it would take a lot to make me get emotional about donuts, but Sunrise Donuts made it happen!” said one enthusiastic reviewer. Takeout. 68 E. Washington St., Petaluma, 707-762-6601.

BurtoNZ Bakery, Windsor: You can thank the Kiwis for coming up with a cream and raspberry-filled doughnut that’s about the best thing since sliced bread. This New Zealand specialty is a not-too-sweet fried torpedo rolled in sugar, split down the middle and stuffed with whipped cream and a schmear of seedless raspberry jam. Oh so good with morning coffee or an evening dessert, or any time in between. 9076 Brooks Road S, Windsor, 707-687-5455. 

Flakey Cream Do-Nuts & Coffee Shop, Healdsburg: A favorite coffee shop since the 1960s, this classic has full breakfast and lunch. But it’s the doughnuts in the window every morning that have been drawing kids and hungry grown-ups to this spot for more than 50 years. They even have a “buy five, get one free” deal for their doughnuts. Amazing glazed doughnuts. 441 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-433-3895, flakycream.com 

Happy Donuts, Cloverdale: This new addition to Cloverdale is the second outpost for this delish doughnut shop. Also in Windsor. 1117, Suite C, S. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale, 707-669-0326; 8962 Brooks Road S., Windsor.

Dutch Door Donuts
Mixed doughnuts from Carmel-based Dutch Door Donuts. The cooked-to-order doughnuts will be coming to Healdsburg in summer 2025. (Patrick Tregenza)

More doughnuts to look forward to:

Dutch Door Donuts — Opening Summer 2025

Since February, locals have been drooling as they walk by the bright orange door at 109A Plaza St., eagerly awaiting chef Tucker Bunch’s Healdsburg outpost of his Carmel-by-the-Sea doughnut shop. Expect made-to-order artisan doughnuts in seasonal flavors like passionfruit-hibiscus, miso-caramel, salted brown butter, and almond sesame cinnamon. Still no official opening date but we heard this week that it’s “getting close.” Instagram.com/dutchdoordonuts

Cloverdale’s Historic Pick’s Drive-In Gets New Owner and Makeover

A guest at Pick’s Drive-In carries his meal and drinks back to his truck in downtown Cloverdale Tuesday June 14, 2022 (Chad Surmick / Press Democrat)

Anidel Hospitality — the company that recently acquired the Sonoma Cheese Factory and Sonoma’s Best Modern Mercantile from embattled developer Ken Mattson — has announced plans to take over a beloved piece of Cloverdale history.

Pick’s Drive-In, a nearly century-old hamburger stand, will become Pick’s Roadside later this summer, according to Amber Lanier, a Cloverdale resident working with Anidel to renovate the iconic eatery.

“Pick’s has always been more than just a restaurant,” said Lanier. “It’s a gathering spot, a piece of history and a place that has shaped the memories of so many in Cloverdale.”

A fifth-generation Cloverdale resident, Lanier told The Press Democrat that her grandmother used to go to the drive-in as a little girl in 1923, when it opened as Reed and Bell’s Root Beer Stand — an offshoot restaurant chain of the A&W Root Beer franchise founded by Lewis Reed and H.C. Bell.

Over the years, Pick’s Drive-In has seen several changes in ownership. Claudia Clow purchased the iconic drive-in in June of 1990 and operated it for nearly three decades. In 2016, she sold the business to David Alioto, owner of Healdsburger restaurant.

According to Alioto, the sale was “a very friendly transaction.” At the time, he expressed a commitment to preserving “the charm of the 1923 restaurant,” including its secret red relish recipe, while incorporating Healdsburger’s menu and quality standards. (Although Clow sold the business in 2016, she said in a June 9 email to The Press Democrat that she retained ownership of the property and leased it to the new operators.)

In August 2021, Alioto sold Pick’s to Mark and Angela Garcia. Their daughter, Nicole Hinchliffe — a U.S. Air Force veteran and former employee of the renowned SingleThread restaurant — stepped into the kitchen and introduced handmade potpies as a way to help sustain operations during the slower winter months.

By August 2024, Hinchliffe announced on Facebook that Pick’s Drive-In was up for sale. She noted the restaurant would remain open until the family found a suitable new owner.

According to Amber Lanier, Anidel Hospitality — led by San Francisco-based software developer and venture capitalist Chris Fanini, founder of Weebly — plans to preserve the restaurant’s vintage charm while introducing thoughtful, modern updates.

“We’re putting a lot of love and care into the space and making sure that the heart and soul of Pick’s remains at the core of everything we do,” Lanier said.

This is a developing story.

The World’s 50 Best Restaurants Recognizes Healdsburg’s SingleThread

The Forbes Travel Guide has honored SingleThread Farms and Restaurant in Healdsburg with its top five-star luxury rating in 2025. (Garrett Rowland/Sonoma County Tourism)

The international culinary spotlight has once again turned to SingleThread, which has secured the No. 80 spot on the extended list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, announced today.

The three Michelin-starred Healdsburg restaurant joined San Francisco’s Atelier Creen (No. 96) on the ranking of restaurants No. 51 — 100. Consider it an amuse bouche to the much-anticipated Top 50 awards, which will be announced June 19 in Turin, Italy.

Since 2002, “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants” has served as a snapshot of some of the best destinations for unique culinary experiences while highlighting emerging gastronomic trends, according William Reed, a business-to-business media company behind the annual list. A panel of more than 1,000 international experts — including food critics, chefs, restaurateurs and seasoned gourmets — selects the restaurants for each year’s ranking.

At Single Thread restaurant in Healdsburg. (Garrett Rowland/Sonoma County Tourism)
At Single Thread restaurant in Healdsburg. (Garrett Rowland/Sonoma County Tourism)
At Single Thread restaurant in Healdsburg. (Eric Wolfinger/Sonoma County Tourism)
At Single Thread restaurant in Healdsburg. (Eric Wolfinger/Sonoma County Tourism)

SingleThread, which opened in 2016, first earned a spot on the extended World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2019, debuting at No. 71. It broke into the coveted top 50 twice — soaring to No. 37 in 2021 and narrowly holding on at No. 50 in 2022. After slipping to No. 68 in 2023, it rebounded to No. 46 last year. This year, the acclaimed restaurant faced stiff global competition from top establishments across 37 cities, including Copenhagen, Tokyo, Istanbul, Singapore and Guadalajara.

Kyle and Katina Connaughton of SingleThread in Healdsburg. (Eva Kolenko / Courtesy of SingleThread)
Kyle and Katina Connaughton of SingleThread in Healdsburg. (Eva Kolenko / SingleThread)

SingleThread chef Kyle Connaughton, who co-owns the restaurant with his wife, Katina, said they were honored to yet again be named on the World’s Best Restaurants list.

“(It) has always come as a testament to the passion and commitment of our team and the inspiration we draw daily from our farm and community,” he said. “In our small town of Healdsburg, it’s always an honor to be recognized among the great food cities of the world.”

New York’s Le Bernardin (No. 90) was the third American restaurant on the extended list.