Delicious Dish Restaurant in Sonoma to Close

Nashville Fried Chicken at Delicious Dish in Sonoma (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

The doors are closing at Delicious Dish in Sonoma, one of my favorite roadhouse pitstops for burgers, milkshakes and epic salads. Chef/owners Lauren and Charles Cotner have announced that their quirky Arnold Drive restaurant will host its last meal Thursday.

“It’s been a rough 2022 for us. This year has been slower than last, with too many disruptions, including a huge jump in the cost of food and doing business. For the foreseeable future, we’re looking at half the business at twice the price,” said Lauren Cotner.

The four-year-old cafe and catering company began with a selection of sandwiches, salads and prepared meals for pickup and then transitioned to a full-service restaurant for lunch and dinner several nights a week.

Chef Lauren Cotner at Delicious Dish in Sonoma (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Chef Lauren Cotner at Delicious Dish in Sonoma (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

Replacing the Cotners in the new year is the team of Valley Bar & Bottle, who will transform the location into a lunchtime destination with seasonal American food.

“We are taking over the Delicious Dish space in the new year. We all live right in that neighborhood, so we are excited to be in our hood,” said Emma Lipp, Chef/owner of Valley.

Valley’s existing location on the Sonoma Plaza (487 First St. West) will continue with its breakfast, lunch, brunch and dinner offerings. The restaurant is a collaboration between Lipp, Lauren Feldman, Tanner Walle and Stephanie Reagor.

Valley Bar + Bottle in Sonoma. (Emma K Creative)
Valley Bar + Bottle in Sonoma. (Emma K. Morris)

According to Cotner, the staff of Delicious Dish has been offered an opportunity to continue with the new owners.

“We have been well-served, uplifted and supported by this community since opening out-the-door dinners four years ago and our restaurant three years ago. It isn’t from lack of love. It’s just a bad time for our little restaurant,” Cotner said.

“We can’t wait to see what the new owners (the team from Valley Bar + Bottle) have in store for this place. They have great intentions and have been supportive and respectful of our process, our space and the team the entire time. Please welcome them with open hearts,” she added.

The ‘New’ Mendocino Is the Perfect Winter Getaway

Panorama of the town Mendocino. An historic town on the northern California coast popular with tourists.

With so much to see and do in Mendocino County, from touring remote vineyards to hiking through redwood forests, visitors sometimes overlook the simple joy of slowing down and hanging out. Why spend hours driving around the county when you can leave the car at the hotel and find everything you could want within strolling distance? Finding that bliss is easy in the idyllic coastal town of Mendocino.

If you haven’t visited recently, you’re in for a refreshing surprise. Not to worry—Mendocino’s vibe is as laidback as ever and old-favorite shops and restaurants remain, but there’s something different in the air. New shops, cafés, and inns have opened during the last few years and the town is now attracting a younger—dare we say hipper?—demographic. The result is a more vibrant Mendocino with something for everyone. To help you plan the perfect winter getaway, here are our picks for the best “next-generation” places to stay, eat, drink and shop.

Nicholson House

Newly opened Nicholson House combines French Victorian and Art Deco design with clean lines and sleek, contemporary touches. Peter and Melissa Lopez, the owners of Café Beaujolais next door, purchased the 1880s family home in 2020 and transformed it into a stylish inn that includes four rooms in the main house and three luxurious stand-alone suites. To help guests truly relax and enjoy the Mendo vibe, turntables and groovy jazz records replace in-room TVs. If you’re up for a bit of a splurge, opt for a suite; each includes an outdoor sitting area, propane fireplace, and a gorgeous spa bathroom with heated floors. Details: 951 Ukiah Street, 707-937-0312, nicholsonhouse.com

Nicholson House in Mendocino. (Nicholson House)
Nicholson House in Mendocino. (Nicholson House)
Guest bath at Nicholson House in Mendocino. (Nicholson House)
Guest bath at Nicholson House in Mendocino. (Nicholson House)
Artwork in the foyer at Nicholson House in Mendocino. (Nicolson House)
Artwork in the foyer at Nicholson House in Mendocino. (Nicholson House)
Turntables and groovy jazz records replace in-room TVs at Nicholson House. (Nicholson House)

The Waiting Room

True to its name, this is the waiting lounge for the adjacent and perpetually popular Café Beaujolais. Open from 7 a.m., The Waiting Room is also a cozy spot to enjoy morning coffee and delicious housemade pastries—we especially love the savory options—before heading off for the day’s adventures. In the afternoon or evening, grab a seat in a comfy armchair near the fireplace and play board games while sipping a local craft beer on draft or a glass of Mendocino County wine. Happy hour happens daily from 3 to 5 p.m. Details: 961 Ukiah Street, 707.937.5614, cafebeaujolais.com/waiting-room

Fog Eater Café and Fog Bottle Shop

This colorful women-owned café serves vegetarian California cuisine with a southern accent. On the plate, that translates to lip-smacking housemade pimento cheese, biscuit sliders stuffed with fried green tomatoes, pickled vegetables, hushpuppies, and wild chanterelle mushroom risotto—all vibrant and full of flavor. Fittingly, the Fog Eater drinks list is anything but typical, focusing on natural wines and low-alcohol cocktails. You’ll find many of the restaurant’s wine selections for sale at the Fog Bottle Shop retail annex, along with housemade snacks and picnic supplies. Details: 45104 Main Street, 707-397-1806, fogeatercafe.com

Hushpuppies at Fog Eater Cafe in Mendocino. (Fog Eater Cafe)
Let the staff help you pick the wine from the bottle shop at Fog Eater Cafe in Mendocino. (Fog Eater Cafe)

Loot & Lore

Everyone can use a little more magic in their lives, and Loot & Lore is just the place to get it. The shop, owned and run by jewelry designer and self-described witch Cyn Levesque, is set inside a picturesque water tower overlooking the ocean. Loot & Lore specializes in occult items such as “enchanted” jewelry, books, candles, tarot supplies and anything else the modern witch could want. For a peek into the future, book a tarot, oracle, or astrology reading. Details: 611 Albion Street, 707-397-1899, lootandlore.love

The Study Club

Globe-trotting boutique owner Erin Keller has a keen eye for beautiful things, so you’re sure to find something gorgeous at The Study Club. The upscale corner shop offers an aspirational selection of contemporary women’s clothing in soft, neutral tones and luxe fabrics, as well as artisan housewares, jewelry and accessories. Details: 10470 Lansing Street, 707-937-1777, thestudyclubmendocino.com

Meyer Family Cellars

Matt Meyer, the son of legendary Silver Oak winery founder Justin Meyer, is the winemaker and owner behind Meyer Family Cellars. The winery’s Mendocino tasting room is an offshoot of the main winery in nearby Yorkville Highlands. In downtown Mendocino, you’ll find a sleek, modern space and wine garden, offering tastes of Meyer’s Mendocino County and Napa Valley wines, including Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah and a port-style dessert wine. Details: 45156 Main Street, 707-397-1406, meyerfamilycellars.com

Nahara Healing Arts

A visit to Mendocino should always include a little self care. After hiking around Mendocino Headlands State Park, beachcombing or just tooling around town, some spa love is definitely in order. Head to Nahara Healing Arts for organic spa treatments, massage, facials, body scrubs, wraps and all-around bliss. The spa also hosts weekday yoga and mat pilates classes in its onsite wellness studio. Details: 10481 Lansing Street, 707-357-6879, naharahealingarts.com

A Russian River Vacation Home Gets a Glowing Makeover

A few carefully considered architectural changes and bright and elegant finishes can make a home feel more expansive and sophisticated in an instance. This is the case with a 1950s Forestville vacation home that was recently renovated by Sonoma-based design firm Studio Plow so that it could be used as a permanent residence. 

Studio Plow design principal Brit Epperson took inspiration from the sunlight filtering through the canopy of  the surrounding redwoods to create a home that is light and airy. She vaulted the home’s low ceilings and added strategically placed skylights to create an expanded space with light filling the combined living and dining area in different spots throughout the day. 

Epperson added built-in cabinets to the 1500-square-foot home for additional, unobtrusive storage options. By installing glass-paneled steel doors (by Pinky’s of LA), she connected the great room area with the deck, which has magnificent views of the redwoods.

The home’s look is enhanced by exquisite finishes — quartz and marble and a Christopher Boots brass and crystal chandelier — as well as decorative details, like a casually strewn floor-length linen tablecloth, naturally-dyed silk pillow cases in the bedroom, and a vintage chair in the great room. The result is a luxuriously casual dwelling with an “up in the trees” feeling that evokes a treehouse. Click through the above gallery for a peek inside. 

Interiors and architecture by Studio Plow, studioplow.com 

The Best Things We Ate in Sonoma County in 2022

Almost Famous Chicken Tenders at Lo & Behold in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

Sometimes you know, in the seconds after a first bite, that a dish won’t be merely memorable. It’s going to be one of the best bites of the year.

A sip of oyster soup called Billi Bi at the recently opened, high-end Cyrus restaurant in Geyserville had exactly that quality.

Other tastes grow on you, becoming more magical in hindsight. A simple salad at Delicious Dish in Sonoma, made with black rice, ahi tuna and a creamy peanut sauce, is a craving that hits me at least once a week.

There’s no real science to selecting this list of the best things I’ve eaten all year. I’ve been to more than 100 restaurants in 2022, and I might sour on a dish I once loved. Maybe the kitchen staff is having a bad day. Maybe I’m not hungry for what’s on the menu. On the other hand, a mundane meal can become extraordinary with good friends at the table, laughter and sunshine.

What makes being a food writer so much fun are those rare moments when the stars align and a plate of food becomes an unforgettable sensory experience.

Many, but not all, of these dishes are from new restaurants, as revisits can be few and far between. Stay tuned in the coming weeks as I write about the biggest openings of the year and go even deeper into 2022 as one of the most exciting years in recent memory for the local restaurant scene.

Geyserville

Billi Bi, Cyrus (part of the $295 tasting menu): Billi Bi has been called the most luxurious dish in the world. The velvety mussel soup is one of the most delicious things on the nearly 20-course tasting menu ($295 per person) at the new Cyrus restaurant. Chef Douglas Keane’s deceptively simple Billi Bi uses the broth of steamed mussels and a heavy dose of cream, butter and white wine to create a deep, satisfying soup that’s far more than the sum of its parts. 275 Highway 128, Geyserville; 707-723-5999, cyrusrestaurant.com

Billi Bi Soup with fennel on the opening menu at Cyrus restaurant in Geyserville. (Heather Irwin / Sonoma Magazine)
Billi Bi Soup with Fennel on the opening menu at Cyrus restaurant in Geyserville. (Heather Irwin / Sonoma Magazine)

Healdsburg

Tortilla Espanola, Bravas ($9): Thin layers of potatoes, onions and Manchego cheese are delicately held together with egg. Served cold with smoky red pepper Romesco aioli (olive oil-based mayonnaise), this surprisingly light dish became a tapas favorite for the table. 420 Center St., Healdsburg; 707-576-9610, starkrestaurants.com

Almost Famous Chicken Tenders, Lo & Behold ($15): These are no children’s-menu frozen-mystery-meat sticks. Chef Sean Raymond Kelley’s Almost Famous tenders are the juiciest strips of crunchy, salty, fried chicken I’ve ever had. Dipped in homemade ranch sauce with a side of pickles, they’re worthy of a standing ovation. Pair with the World’s Best Vodka Soda ($12), made with unicorn tears and Young & Yonder vodka. 214 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg; 707-756-5021, loandbeholdca.com

Petite Escargot, Troubadour Bread and Bistro (part of the tasting menu, $125): By day, Troubadour is a sandwich shop, but by night it becomes a funky French bistro featuring a five-course tasting menu by Chef Sean McGaughey (who has worked at Single Thread and Quail & Condor). Served in a Limoges tea cup with creamy garlic velouté, the Petite Escargot is a single perfect bite. 381 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg; 707-756-3972, troubadourhbg.com

Le Diner at Troubadour Bread and Bistro n Healdsburg. (Emma K Creative)
At Troubadour Bread and Bistro n Healdsburg. (Emma K. Morris)

Petaluma

Trout Salad, Lunchette: A smoked trout salad makes my list every year because … yum. Grab-and-go salads from chef and owner Naomi Crawford’s tiny cafe are a takeout staple when I’m working in Petaluma. House-smoked trout, local lettuces, roasted beets, pickled raisins and other goodies get a nice drizzle of preserved lemon dressing for an unforgettable salad. 25 Fourth St., Petaluma; 707-241-7443, lunchettepetaluma.com

Rohnert Park

Sukiyaki, Hana Japanese ($38): Unlike its stylish cousins, ramen and shabu-shabu, sukiyaki isn’t exactly a cultural zeitgeist, but this showstopper should be. A skillet-size Japanese hot pot (donabe) comes to the table trailing fragrant steam from onions, tofu, mushrooms, green onion and thin strips of rib-eye steak swimming in a sweet, salty, umami-packed broth. Served with rice and a raw egg to dip into. 101 Golf Course Drive, Rohnert Park; 707-586-0270, hanajapanese.com

Sukiyaki at Hanna Japanese Restaurant in Rohnert Park September 21, 2022. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Sukiyaki at Hanna Japanese Restaurant in Rohnert Park September 21, 2022. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

Santa Rosa

Cocktails and Churros, Mitote Food Park: Roseland’s food truck park has upped its game by adding a mezcal-forward bar. Spend the afternoon noshing on tacos and sipping cocktails like La Coqueta (The Flirt), with tequila-hibiscus-strawberry syrup and blood orange liqueur. Don’t miss La Churroteka’s churro, a crispy cinnamon-sugar stick filled with chocolate, condensed milk or caramel. 635 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa; mitotefoodpark.com

Sebastopol

Spanish Octopus a la Plancha, Oyster ($26): Tender bites of octopus are perched atop smashed fingerling potatoes. The pool of earthy black garlic aioli is the real surprise, hidden beneath the crisp spuds. Just as I thought the dish needed a little extra flavor boost, voilà, the black gold appeared. 6770 McKinley St., Suite 130, Sebastopol; oystersebastopol.com

Mushroom Pizza, Psychic Pie ($5.50): This irreverent little pizzeria has Roman pizza down. Mushroom is my favorite because the mix of earthy mushrooms and tart chevre is just so right, with bright citrus accents. Cut-to-order rectangular slices are hot-honey- and ranch-sauce-friendly. 980 Gravenstein Highway S., Sebastopol; 707-827-6032, psychicpie.com

Octopus with smashed fingerling potatoes at Oyster. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Octopus with smashed fingerling potatoes at Oyster. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

Sonoma

Boquerones Toast, Animo ($14): You’re here for the turbot or aged pork, a seemingly simple appetizer that sums up chef and owner Joshua Smookler’s approach to cooking. Tiny grape tomatoes are peeled before roasting for the sweetest flavor, and the anchovies on top are creamy and light. It’s a must try. Esquire magazine recently named Animo one of the best new restaurants in America. 18976 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma; Instagram: @animo_restaurant

Banh Mi Poke Bowl Salad, Delicious Dish ($18): It’s no exaggeration to say I could eat this rainbow of black rice, pickled daikon, cucumber, watermelon radish, cilantro, mint and ruby red chunks of tuna every day. Each bite reveals something new — sweet, crunchy, sour, bitter, herby, umami — presented in a giant bowl that’s heartbreakingly beautiful. 18709 Arnold Drive, Sonoma; 707-721-4231, delicious-dish.square.site

Bahn Mi Ahi Poke Bowl Salad at Delicious Dish in Sonoma (Heather Irwin / Sonoma Magazine)
Bahn Mi Ahi Poke Bowl Salad at Delicious Dish in Sonoma (Heather Irwin / Sonoma Magazine)

Elote, Kivelstadt Cellars and Winegarten ($14): Chef Jennifer McMurry knows how to coax incredible flavor out of produce, and this seasonal dish is only on the summer menu. Her summery smoked corn, punctuated by tart lime vinaigrette and mildly spicy jalapeño aioli, was one of the best versions of this street food I’ve ever had. You can still get her Mushroom Cubano, a melted mess of cheese and fresh mushrooms on fresh focaccia. 22900 Broadway, Sonoma; 707-938-7001, kivelstadtcellars.com

Chicken Mole Enchiladas, Sonoma Eats ($16): Mole can be divisive, with its intense flavors — chocolate, roasted chiles, nuts and potent herbs — mixed into an almost-black sauce and sometimes coming from a can rather than slowly cooked over several days. Done right, however, there’s no denying the magic of mole’s ancient roots. Here, humble chicken or mushroom enchiladas are transformed into something outstanding. 18133 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma (at Barking Dog Roasters); 707-939-1905, sonomaeatsmex.com

Windsor

Croque Monsieur, Maison Porcella ($15): Chef Marc-Henri Jean-Baptiste’s luxurious pates, sausages and Parisian-style ham are the draws of this cozy cafe and wine bar, but if you’re willing to wait a minute, you can get a piping-hot Croque Monsieur that makes all other Croques seem pitiful. This grand ham and cheese sandwich includes creamy bechamel sauce, Gruyere cheese, homemade pain de mie (a slightly sweet French bread loaf) and thin slices of Jean-Baptiste’s award-winning ham. 8499 Old Redwood Highway, Suite 114, Windsor, 707-955-5611, maisonporcella.com

Mobile

Carne Asada Fries, Galvan’s Eatery ($14): Mexican-inspired food with a beer garden sensibility makes this one of the best food trucks in Sonoma County. Seasoned fries are the base for Carne Asada Fries, a mountain of crispy, gooey deliciousness. Topped with bits of marinated steak (carne asada), mozzarella cheese, crema, pico de gallo and jalapeños, one serving is enough for a crowd. Find Galvan’s Eatery on Instagram @Galvanseatery or call 707-836-5087.

2 New Restaurants and a Food Truck Pop-Up Coming to Sonoma This Month

A rendering of the new Luma restaurant in Petaluma, from the owners of The Shuckery. (Luma)

Luma Bar & Eatery, a new restaurant in Petaluma from the owners of The Shuckery, is hoping to open this month in the former Dempsey’s brewpub on the Petaluma River. The plant-forward opening menu will feature Sonoma County produce in dishes such as mushroom escabeche, crudite with seaweed hummus, gnocchi with sunchokes and chanterelles, pasta with fennel and carrot ragout and protein side dishes: 4-ounce skewers of pork shank, duck confit or brisket. The restaurant will have a full bar.

“Luma Bar & Eatery is committed to prioritizing sustainability through our food and beverage program, which is thoughtfully designed to combat the climate crisis one conscious meal at a time,” according to the restaurant’s website. 50 E. Washington St., Petaluma, 707-772-5037, lumaeatery.com

 

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Tiki-style experience: The much-anticipated Kapu, a tiki-style bar and restaurant, should be open before the new year, according to general manager and beverage director Michael Richardson. If you’ve been following their Instagram (@kapu.bar), you’ve seen that Richardson has been hard at work painting and decorating every surface. “No white walls” is his motto. Chef Mike Lutz, the former executive chef of Sonoma State’s Prelude restaurant at the Green Music Center, will head the kitchen. 132 Keller St., Petaluma.

Food truck pop-up series: The SOMO Village in Rohnert Park has launched a food truck pop-up series from 11:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. Tuesday and Thursday. The changing lineup of food sellers recently included Lila’s Streetside Eats and Jam’s Joy Bangalow. Find the food park on the west sidewalk near the “Upside-Down Man” statue and SOMO Cowork. Details on Instagram at @somovillage.

2 Local Restaurants Named Among ‘Most Beloved in America’ by OpenTable

Steak-frites at Bistro Jeanty in Yountville. (Courtesy of Bistro Jeanty)

Restaurant reservation service OpenTable has announced its annual list of “Top 100 Most Beloved Restaurants in America,” featuring 47 cities across 21 states. No Sonoma County restaurants made the cut this year, but two of the 100 are in Napa Valley.

French restaurant Bistro Jeanty in Yountville and Italian Bistro Don Giovanni in Napa are among the top picks of OpenTable diners. Three San Francisco restaurants also made the list: House of Prime Rib, Greek restaurant Kokkari Estiatorio and Peruvian seafood eatery La Mar Cebicheria Peruana.

To generate the list, OpenTable analyzed 13 million reviews on its site between Oct. 1, 2021, and Sept. 30, 2022. (The reviews can only be submitted by diners who have made a reservation via OpenTable.) A restaurant’s overall score was determined based on “unique data points,” including “diner rating, user klout, total number of reviews, and regional overall rating,” according to a press release from OpenTable, Inc.

Croque Madame at Bistro Jeanty in Yountville. (Bistro Jeanty)
Croque Madame at Bistro Jeanty in Yountville. (Bistro Jeanty)
Pollo alls Diabola made at Bistro Don Giovanni restaurant in Napa, Friday, July 18, 2014. (Crista Jeremiason / The Press Democrat)
Pollo alls Diabola at Bistro Don Giovanni restaurant in Napa. (Crista Jeremiason/The Press Democrat)

California dominated this year’s list with 21 restaurants, followed by Illinois, which had 17 restaurants on the list, all of them in Chicago. Florida and Nevada tied at 10 restaurants each.

Bistro Jeanty, an institution for French cuisine in Napa Valley, has served classic dishes like onion soup, escargots and cassoulet for more than 20 years. The restaurant is owned by Chef Philippe Jeanty, from the Champagne region in France, who came to Yountville in 1977 to open the Chandon Restaurant.

“Consistently wonderful. Some of the best food in Napa Valley. Wonderful French atmosphere. Great service,” wrote OpenTable reviewer Donna about Bistro Jeanty.

Bistro Don Giovanni, another longtime Napa favorite, is owned by Giovanni Scala, whose mamma inspired the Neapolitan menu at his restaurant. Chef and business partner Scott Warner prepares dishes like carpaccio, gnocchetti with lamb ragu and pecorino toscano and veal parmigiana.

Click through the above gallery for a peek at the Napa Valley restaurants. See the full list here.

The Most Festive Hotels in Sonoma for the Holiday Season

Sonoma County is busy getting ready for the holidays. Trees are being trimmed, garland is being hung, and thousands of twinkling lights are brightening the December nights. If you need a little nudge to get your festive juices flowing, hotels throughout Wine Country are decking their halls with sparkling décor. Click through the gallery above for a look at some of our favorite hotels to visit during the holiday season.

Did we miss one of your must-see properties? Let us know in the comments below.

Best Sonoma County Restaurants Under $40, According to Michelin Guide 2022

Meatballs and mashed potatoes at Stockhome restaurant. (Courtesy of newrevmedia.com)

Sonoma County’s Bib Gourmands have been announced for 2022. While there aren’t any newcomers, it’s a high honor given to eight of the county’s restaurants considered by the California Michelin Guide to be restaurants with “good food at a moderate price.”

Receiving the awards on Dec. 5 were Healdsburg’s Chalkboard; El Molino Central, Valley Bar & Bottle and FolkTable in Sonoma; Khom Loi and Ramen Gaijin in Sebastopol, Stockhome in Petaluma and Glen Ellen Star in Glen Ellen.

While most people are familiar with the Michelin stars, the Bib Gourmand award is lesser known. The Michelin guide, launched by French tire company Michelin in 1900, began awarding stars to fine dining establishments in 1926. In 1955, it introduced a second designation for restaurants deemed a good value by Michelin inspectors. It became known as Bib Gourmand in 1997 and was indicated in the guidebook with an image of the tire company’s mascot “Bibendum,” also known as the Michelin Man.

Today, the Michelin Guide comprises a series of guidebooks and announces awards annually across countries, regions and cities — there’s a Michelin Guide for France, but also one for Paris; in the United States, awards are announced in cities like New York or Washington, D.C. and statewide, in the case of California. Restaurants now need to serve two courses, a glass of wine or dessert for around $40 or less to be considered for the Bib Gourmand category.

While the stars remain the restaurant world’s most coveted awards, being selected a Bib Gourmand by Michelin inspectors is also an honor and can put a restaurant on the map of foodie destinations. This year, the California Michelin Guide lists 141 Bib Gourmand restaurants in the state. A great meal under $40 isn’t easily found in California — click through the above gallery for some excellent deals courtesy of Michelin.

Explore Hidden Gem Restaurants in This Eclectic Sonoma Town

Burger at Boon Eat + Drink in Guerneville. (Chris Hardy/Sonoma Magazine)

For decades, Guerneville was a sleepy hideaway best known for its Russian River resorts and gay-friendly community. Flash forward to today, and the proudly self-proclaimed “gayberhood” is now a fashionable dining destination and a burgeoning resort retreat for straight folks, too.

Guerneville has retained its laidback charm, so don’t expect fancy. But the eclectic riverfront town is worth the drive for farm-to-table meals and sips and snacks at bars, and for admiring gorgeous drag queens strutting down the sidewalks.

A bit of trivia: The former logging town was once nicknamed “Big Bottom” for the alluvial flood plain that Guerneville sits upon. The town’s modern general store, Big Bottom Market, has kept the name.

Boon Eat + Drink

Chef-restaurateur-entrepreneur Crista Luedtke is the unofficial mayor of Guerneville. She owns and operates Boon restaurant, Brot modern German restaurant (closed for winter) and Boon Hotel + Spa. Boon (named for her late, beloved rescue dog) is a hip bistro brimming with all kinds of goodness in the form of organic, seasonal Californian cuisine, plus local microbrews and wines.

Explore mouthwatering plates like housemade burrata with currant glaze, toasted pine nuts, mushroom duxelles and grilled hearth bread; gently spiced chile braised pork shoulder atop creamy polenta and wilted greens with a dollop of homemade ricotta salata; and a vegan bowl that’s rich with sautéed greens, creamy beans, crisp seasonal veggies, and a spicy herbed broth.

16248 Main St., Guerneville, 707-869-0780, eatatboon.com.

At Boon Eat + Drink in Guerneville. (Boon Eat + Drink)
At Boon Eat + Drink in Guerneville. (Boon Eat + Drink)
Flash-fried Brussels sprouts at Boon Eat + Drink in Guerneville. (Courtesy Boon Eat + Drink)
At Boon Eat + Drink in Guerneville. (Boon Eat + Drink)

The Oxbow

It’s easy to overlook this small, nondescript, green-painted restaurant that looks like a cheerful shack on the side of the road. But the dinner and brunch menus tempt with tasty surprises, and it’s lovely to dine outside on the peaceful garden decks beneath the redwoods.

Mosey in for belly fillers such as a chile relleno fancied up with mushrooms, corn and squash; tender barbecue ribs partnered with spicy curdito, potato salad and beans or fries; big burgers of all kinds; and a terrific tri-tip cheesesteak topped with caramelized onions, beer cheese, peppers and aioli on a toasted soft roll. Lots of gluten free and vegan options, too.

17132 Highway 116, Guerneville, 707-869-3922, theoxbowrestaurant.com.

Agriculture Public House

After a three-year hiatus, the historic Russian River resort Dawn Ranch has reopened its luxe, cedar-topped cabins, along with its Cal-fresh restaurant, Agriculture Public House. Take in views of the towering redwoods (borrow some of the resort’s Swarovski Optics binoculars for bird watching, if you like), then dig into seasonal dishes and classic cocktails.

A few standout bites include mushroom enchiladas with braised cabbage and ancho chile sauce; grilled Mary’s organic chicken with yam medallions; cider roasted Brussels sprouts with pepita seeds; or a weekend-brunch-staple Monte Cristo with ham, turkey and Swiss cheese tucked in egg-dipped french toast and served with waffle fries.

16467 Hwy. 116, Guerneville, 707-869-0656, dawnranch.com

Main Street Bistro

This longtime jewel embraces Guerneville’s quirky vibe and fun, friendly community as a combined cocktail lounge, Italian restaurant, pizzeria and nightclub with a cabaret stage and piano bar. Live acoustic jazz, blues, folk and indie music is presented almost every night, too.

Start the party with oysters Rockefeller baked hot with spinach, garlic butter and Parmigiana, then move on to a smoked applewood wedge salad showered in blue cheese crumbles, slivered toasted almonds, sweet red onion and blue cheese dressing. Entrees are comfort food heaven; go for panko chicken parmesan over polenta; weekend special herb-crusted prime rib; a mountain of sausage-beef lasagna bubbling with cheese; or glorious spaghetti and meatballs crowned in Italian meat sauce.

16280 Main St., Guerneville, 707-869-0501, mainststation.com.

The Guerneville Taco Truck. (Russian River Visitor Center)
The Guerneville Taco Truck. (Russian River Visitor Center)

Guerneville Taco Truck

A truck makes our “best” list. Really. It’s one that sends out such tasty food that you’ll wish you lived near its parking spot on downtown’s Main Street just above Johnson’s Beach.

This mobile kitchen has been a community favorite for three decades, and the Vazquez brothers continue to keep everyone well-fed with basic but well-crafted staples like carne asada tacos, lengua burritos gussied up with French fries, overstuffed quesadillas, and tortas plump with spiced, slow simmered chicken.

Challenge yourself: Do you want a large (regular and already hefty) burrito, or can you tackle the extra-large (gargantuan) burrito? Do note: prices on the website are not current and the truck is cash only.

16632 Main St., Guerneville, guernevilletacotruck.com.