Bianca Nicastro serves as an associate judge during the North Coast Wine Challenge in Santa Rosa on Tuesday, April 2, 2024. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
The Press Democrat’s annual North Coast Wine Challenge, a regional competition exclusively focused on wines produced and bottled in select Northern California AVAs, is calling on local producers to enter by March 21.
Eligible North Coast AVAs include those in Sonoma, Napa, Marin, Mendocino, Lake and Solano counties. Top-tier wine professionals — including noted sommeliers, winemakers, restaurateurs, wine writers and more — will judge the wines. Gold-winning wines will be publicly announced in The Press Democrat and winners will be invited to pour at its North Coast Wine & Food Festival, June 14, where over 1,200 people attend every year.
Michael Beaulac, director of winemaking at Foley Family Wines, tastes wine during the second day of judging at the North Coast Wine Challenge in Santa Rosa, Wednesday, April 3, 2024. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
How to enter
To enter, log into EnofileOnline or register for an account and enter wines in the competition online. Entry fee is $85 per wine. Deadline to enter is March 21 and wine shipments (addressed to Press Democrat North Coast Wine Challenge) must arrive at Express Wine Delivery (7970 Cameron Drive, Windsor) by 5 p.m., March 24.
Official entries should include four 750-ml bottles per wine entry or equivalent, such as eight bottles/cans of 375 ml each. For containers larger than 1 liter in volume, send two units. Boxes should be marked “2025 PDNCWC” on all sides. Mark boxes “1 of 2,” “2 of 2,” etc. to ensure entire shipment is received. Download shipping labels here.
Valette in Healdsburg was the only North Bay restaurant to make OpenTable’s 2015 list of 100 Best Restaurants for Foodies in America. (JOHN BURGESS/The Press Democrat)
When chef Dustin Valette opened his namesake restaurant just off the Healdsburg Plaza in 2015, the luxe food scene of the northern Sonoma County town was still in its infancy.
Michelin had all but forsaken Healdsburg after the 2012 closure of Cyrus. SingleThread hadn’t officially opened, and wine magnate Bill Foley’s ventures, including Brass Rabbit and Goodnight’s Steakhouse, weren’t yet on the horizon. Zin Restaurant, owned by Jeff and Susan Mall and one of the early adopters of farm-to-table cuisine, had closed the previous year, leaving a gaping hole in the fledgling foodie town.
Valette saw an opening — literal and figurative — in the former Zin space and an opportunity to carry on the Malls’ ingredient-driven ethos. It didn’t hurt that his grandfather owned a bakery at the location 75 years ago.
Chef Dustin Valette in the kitchen at his restaurant, Valette, in Healdsburg. (Chris Hardy)At Valette restaurant in Healdsburg. (Chris Hardy)
In late 2014, the Healdsburg native left his position as chef de cuisine of Charlie Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen and dove headlong into restaurant ownership with his brother Aaron Garzini. The dream was to create a casual yet elegant space where diners could sit at the bar with a glass of wine and an appetizer or take an hourslong journey into the “trust me” tasting menu.
In March, Valette marks its 10th anniversary as a Wine Country dining staple that has weathered fires, floods and COVID-19. To celebrate, the restaurant will host a series of wine dinners March 10-16, with favorite dishes from the last decade.
I sat down with chef Valette (who also owns The Matheson and Roof 106 in Healdsburg) to discuss his decade in Healdsburg’s food scene.
How would you describe Valette?
Valette was born from two brothers’ lifelong dream of creating a unique dining experience in our hometown Healdsburg. Our goal is to provide a canvas for local farmers, winemakers and artisans to showcase their crafts.
What would you tell yourself 10 years ago about owning a restaurant?
You’re gonna get gray hair and it’s going to be the most stressful and most fulfilling thing in your life besides your children.
Scallops en croute is a puffed pastry topped with squid ink, hiding a giant scallop in creamy Champagne beurre blanc at Valette restaurant in Healdsburg. (Steven Freeman / Sonoma County Tourism)
What dish did you know you had to have on the opening menu?
Scallops en croute. It’s a dish I created at Dry Creek Kitchen. Everyone would come from all around for it. I just served it on Saturday to Guy Fieri. The scallop is steamed and it really shows its beautiful simplicity. It’s got sweet, sour, salty and acidic flavors — it’s fricking terrific. That, and the charcuterie we make in-house, we can’t take off the menu, they’re such staples of the restaurant.
What were the highest and lowest points over the last 10 years?
The lowest point was on Jan. 16, 2022. We had weathered the COVID storm and kept all our employees, but we ran out of money. I sold my car, took out a loan and mortgaged everything we had. I told myself we had until Feb. 1 for things to level out or we would have to close. We reopened for regular dining service on Jan. 17 of that year.
The highest point was when we got a Wine Enthusiast Top 100 nod the year we opened. It showed me very quickly that this crazy idea of two brothers bucking all the trends would work.
What celebrity would you love to have at the restaurant?
Chef Thomas Keller from The French Laundry.
Peppercorn crusted New York steak with wild mushroom fondue and roasted bone marrow, served with potato and pepper hash by chef Dustin Valette at Valette restaurant in Healdsburg. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
What food trend from 10 years ago would you love never to see again?
Inedible garnishes on the plate.
If you weren’t a chef, what would you be?
A winemaker. I would love to tell the story of an entire year through a glass of wine. I love making garage wine and started a commercial wine brand. (Valette works with star winemakers David Ramey, Tom Rochioli, Bob Cabral and Jesse Katz to produce limited-edition Valette wines.)
What are your hopes for the next 10 years?
I would love to celebrate 20 years in this location. I hope we can continue on our path, telling the story of Healdsburg, Sonoma County and its artisans and makers who love their jobs. I want to continue that passion and sense of place.
How has Healdsburg changed in the last 10 years?
Healdsburg has changed for the better. People come from all over to visit and get a sense of our lives here, be part of our community and live the dream we have every day we wake up. But how it’s changed for the worse is the same reason. We have to share our heaven with everyone else. It’s the same answer. If you have a cake, the best part is to share it with everyone.
Dustin Valette and his father, Bob, at the Vallete restaurant in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Your dad, Bob, is a regular fixture at the restaurant, visiting with diners and sharing stories of his life as a former Cal Fire pilot. Why is that?
One of my favorite parts of the restaurant is that my dad spends nights talking to guests, enjoying himself and making people happy. My dad was focused on protecting our community as a firefighter but never got to reap the rewards. I watch my dad with a glass of wine at the restaurant, and it’s nice to see him sit back and enjoy people.
What keeps you in this business?
For 10 years, we have created a place to come and relax and forget about the worries of life — the crazy world outside our doors. You can sit here and have a bourbon at the bar; it feels like coming home. I want to create a place that gives people warmth in their souls. What we do puts such a big smile on my face. I can’t shake how lucky I am.
St. Clair Brown Winery & Brewery in Napa. (St. Clair Brown Winery & Brewery)
There’s long been an inside joke among winery folks that their favorite beverage is beer.
Every year during harvest, when I stop by local hot spots like El Dorado Kitchen in Sonoma or the Restaurant at North Block in Yountville, I can count on finding groups of winemakers hanging out at the bars, holding craft brew mugs in their grape-stained hands.
They love wine but they’ve had enough, they’ll admit. And so, perhaps, have younger drinkers, according to recent statistics.
It’s no secret that the wine industry is facing challenging times, as Gen Z and millennial consumers are exploring alternatives to wine, like cocktails, hard seltzers and beer — or nonalcoholic drinks. Many traditional wine tasting destinations are feeling the pain, with visits declining.
To meet new demands, the industry is pivoting. Winery behemoth Constellation Brands Inc., for example, just reported that beer now represents nearly 82% of its sales, according to the company’s annual earnings report. Last week, Constellation even entered negotiations to sell its entire wine portfolio to two other top producers.
So it won’t surprise me to see more wine tasting rooms entering into partnerships, offering beer and other drinks in their expensive-to-operate spaces. Here are some of my current local favorites pouring wine and beer.
Mad Fritz Brewing Co. and Jessup Wine Cellars
The “Local Origins, Farmer’s Ale” at Mad Fritz Brewing Company in St. Helena, Monday, Nov. 13, 2023. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
The Mad Fritz taproom opened last spring in Yountville, sharing a charming stone and clapboard cottage with Jessup Wine Cellars on Washington Street. The tiny-batch, high-end beers have been a cult favorite around Napa Valley for more than a decade, poured at The French Laundry and Solage Calistoga among other upscale joints and so coveted that there is a waiting list for the members club.
Husband-and-wife owners Nile Zacherle and Whitney Fisher (both longtime winemakers, by the way) use craft-malted single-variety barley and French oak barrels to age the double or triple fermented beers for up to 12 months.
Flavors change seasonally and the beers usually have delightful names referencing Grimms’ Fairy Tales, such as The Goose that Laid the Golden Egg, a funky, dry saison with a hint of pineapple. My favorite is the mildly bitter and spicy Peach Project, made with organic peaches from Cervantes Family Vineyard in St. Helena and Triumph hops from the Alexander Valley Hops farm in Sonoma County.
The beer bar is tiny — it used to be the Yountville town jail long ago — but hip with its record player and vinyl collection. A sign encourages you to “Yo! Be your own DJ!” and select records (but please heed a newly taped-up sign that says, “Now! Don’t steal them!”).
Dried hops at Mad Fritz Brewing Company in St. Helena, Monday, Nov. 13, 2023. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)Mad Fritz Brewing Company cofounder Nile Zacherle pours a beer on tap at the brewery in St. Helena, Monday, Nov. 13, 2023. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Step into the adjacent lounge and you’ll find the Jessup Wine Cellars wine bar, a comfy spot to sip standouts like the 2019 Juel blend of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Sirah, Malbec and Petite Verdot.
“We definitely get couples where one wants wine and the other wants beer,” Zacherle said. “I think, as a collective property, we offer a lot of variety.”
Technically, that couple would not sit together, given licensing differences between a beer and a wine business. But with the shared footprint and open wall between the two rooms, the happy pair can toast each other mere feet apart.
6720 Washington St., Yountville, 707-968-5058, madfritz.com
Wine from Coyote Sonoma in Healdsburg. (Coyote Sonoma)
Ken and Diane Wilson own 11 wine businesses across Sonoma and Mendocino counties, including Coyote Sonoma in Healdsburg. The Coyote space used to be the Sonoma Cider taproom, so it made sense for the Wilsons to fill it with local craft beers, alongside their own wine selections.
Beer lovers will find 18 craft brews on tap, from local producers like Parliament Brewing, HenHouse Brewing, Cooperage Brewing and Russian River Brewing.
Wine lovers have two options. There’s a full tasting room with wine and optional food pairings, open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. There’s also a wine list in the taproom, which is open 4 p.m. until the bar closes Wednesday through Saturday.
Niclole Marden performs with her band as they open for the second annual Fall Show Benefit Concert featuring Dustin Saylor Band for TLC Child and Family Services at Coyote Sonoma in Healdsburg, Saturday, Nov. 18, 2023. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)
Coyote Sonoma hosts live music almost every Friday and Saturday night and has launched a Coyote Sonoma Locals Club that offers complimentary or discounted tickets to most live music events. For $25 per month, club members get one bottle of wine that can be enjoyed on site during a show with free corkage.
“It’s really affordable and particularly attractive at a time where people seem to be more conscious of expenses,” said Wilson marketing specialist Katie Ambrosi. “Even if someone isn’t much of a wine lover, they enjoy the club because it brings such great access to music at a venue with a healthy beer selection.”
St. Clair Brown opened on the edge of downtown Napa in 2013 as a Wine Country wonderland featuring an industrial-chic facility making handcrafted small-lot wines and microbrew beers surrounded by lavish culinary gardens with a café in an English-style greenhouse.
Owners Elaine St. Clair (winemaker and brewmaster) and Laina Brown (winery executive) pulled out all the stops and paid attention to details, like the retro typewritten labels that are tied to the bottles with twine.
St. Clair Brown Winery & Brewery in Napa. (St. Clair Brown Winery & Brewery)
I remember the first time I visited back then and how delighted I was when the Napa Valley Wine Train chugged by on the tracks mere feet from that greenhouse. The conductor honked the locomotive’s horn in a long, soulful hello and all of us café guests shared friendly waves with the train riders.
The experience is just as magical now as we can taste flights of wine, beer or even housemade nonalcoholic garden cocktails, with optional food pairings.
You’ll definitely want to try the food, which is presented in jewel box nibbles that highlight produce from the garden, which was planted by organic culinary gardener Peter Jacobsen (he is the owner of Jacobsen Orchards in Yountville and grows specialty fruits, herbs, vegetables and edible flowers for several Michelin-starred restaurants, including The French Laundry).
St. Clair Brown Winery & Brewery in Napa. (Emma K Creative)St. Clair Brown Winery & Brewery in Napa. (St. Clair Brown Winery & Brewery)
I still dream of my last visit, when I savored pork rillettes tucked into a glass jar with fig-apricot-lemon compote, and a pretty salad of farro and Rancho Gordo quinoa dotted with pickled radishes, Pinot Grigio-soaked golden raisins, sweet pea sprouts and blossoms.
Check the website calendar, too, for pop-ups in the cellar that turns into a sophisticated speakeasy. To get in, look for the neon peace sign, knock twice and share the password (that changes weekly). Then slip inside for DJ-spun music, wine and beer by candlelight and dancing amid the fuchsia-strobe-lit stainless steel tanks.
The Petaluma River. (M. Woolsey / Sonoma County Tourism)
A blend of historic charm and modern creativity, this riverside town invites exploration at every turn. Its walkable downtown is packed with eclectic boutiques, vintage treasures, and a thriving food scene that highlights local and global flavors. Whether you’re savoring fresh pastries, wandering through indie record stores or hiking rolling green hills, Petaluma offers a perfect balance of easygoing charm and unexpected delights.
Where to go
With eclectic small boutiques, antique shops and tons of great restaurants, Petaluma’s downtown is charismatic and intimate. Jumpstart the day at the grab-and-go counter at legendary bakeryDella Fattoria (143 Petaluma Blvd. N.). The cinnamon twist is a harmony of savory and sweet — odds are you’ll be covered in some highly coveted crumbs before you make it out the door.
Paris Brest at Della Fattoria in Petaluma. (Alvin Jornada/The Press Democrat)Paradise Found Records in downtown Petaluma. (Crissy Pascual / Petaluma Argus-Courier)
Browse sustainable clothes and apothecary goods at Estuary (120 Petaluma Blvd. N.); get lost among stacks of vinyl atParadise Found Records & Music (316 B St.); stock up on heirloom seeds atPetaluma Seed Bank (110 Petaluma Blvd. N.); or lose an hour or two atCopperfield’s Underground (140 Kentucky St.), a treasure trove of rare and used books.
A short walk away, everyone loves the Swedish meatballs (with extra lingonberries, please) and falafel kebabs at family-ownedStockhome restaurant (220 Western Ave.). Don’t leave without a bag of colorful candies from the glass jars that line the counter for your own version of the Swedish custom oflördagsgodis, or Saturday morning sweets. From there, a quick stop atCottage Gardens of Petaluma (3995 Emerald Drive) provides inspiration for future flowery goodness, with paths lined with roses, succulents and bubbling fountains.
Airy Swedish understatement at Stockhome in downtown Petaluma. (Emma K Creative/Stockhome)A lake at Helen Putnam Regional Park in Petaluma. (Crissy Pascual / Petaluma Argus-Courier)
Lush and green, the hillsides atHelen Putnam Regional Park (411 Chileno Valley Road), a short drive from town, shine this time of year. If it’s been a rainy week, the paved Ridge Trail is a go-to. When the ground is firm, the park’s 6-mile looped trail system weaves together quiet spaces for reflection with panoramic views of the city and rolling pasturelands.
Back in town, celebrate all those steps from a comfy seat near the window atBarber Lee Spirits (120 Washington St.). Whiskey drinkers will certainly feel at home here, but the family-owned distillery is also well-known for crafting spirits that aren’t widely produced in the United States, including anise-flavored absinthe andlambanog, a traditional 100-proof liquor from the Philippines with an alluring slight sweetness.
A whiskey sour cocktail from Barber Lee Spirits in Petaluma. (Barber Lee Spirits)Table Culture Provisions chef Stéphane Saint Louis serves a collage of late spring bites for two. Dishes include squid-ink madeleines, asparagus cappuccino and golden orbs of Indian pani puri filled with Dungeness crab salad. (Kim Carroll)
From the tasting room at Barber Lee, it’s less than a 15-minute walk to a memorable dinner atTable Culture Provisions (312 Petaluma Blvd. S.). What started as a fried chicken pop-up during the pandemic has blossomed into an ambitious, multicourse tasting menu that reminds us of the bounty in our backyard.
Apple Crumb pie with ice cream at Hazel Restaurant in Occidental, Friday, January 24, 2025. Pies at Hazel are baked once a week every Friday. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)
Boasting dozens of historic restaurants and iconic vineyards throughout the land, Sonoma County harbors many classic gems we couldn’t fathom living without. From favorite watering holes only locals know about to legendary experiences you have to try at least once, here is just a handful of our favorite Sonoma classics.
Ernie’s Tin Bar, Petaluma
Since 1923, this watering hole on Lakeville Highway has offered respite from the bustling world outside its door. Snack on all the shelled peanuts you want, but keep your cellphone tucked away — their use is frowned upon. Instead, strike up a chat with your neighbor. “If you sit down, you’re going to end up in a conversation with somebody,” says third-generation proprietor Ernie Altenreuther. 5100 Lakeville Highway, Petaluma, 707-762-2075, facebook.com/erniestinbar
Ernie’s Tin Bar on Lakeville Highway in Petaluma, Nov. 22, 2019. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)Apple Crumb pie with ice cream at Hazel Restaurant in Occidental, Friday, Jan. 24, 2025. Pies at Hazel are baked once a week every Friday. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)
Friday Pie Day at Hazel, Occidental
Michele Wimborough’s Friday pie day is legendary, with picks ranging from peanut butter and blackberry to Dutch apple and lemon meringue. You never know what she’ll be making, which is half the fun of your pie adventure. 3782 Bohemian Hwy., Occidental,707-874-6003, restauranthazel.com
Pliny the Younger, Santa Rosa and Windsor
Why is there a long line of folks standing out in the cold — even sometimes in the spring rain — along Fourth Street in Santa Rosa? It’s a rite of passage that goes back over two decades: the annual release of the Pliny the Younger beer. The triple IPA packs a punch at over 10% alcohol and is available at Russian River Brewing Co.’s pubs in Santa Rosa and Windsor for only two weeks, starting in late March. Waiting in line for a pint of Pliny is a classic, only-in-Sonoma experience that you’ve got to try at least once. 725 Fourth St., Santa Rosa; 700 Mitchell Lane, Windsor, 707-545-2337, russianriverbrewing.com
Server Cerra Modar carries a tray of Russian River Brewing Co. 20th anniversary Pliny the Younger triple IPA for guest on the first day of the limited release at the brewpub in Santa Rosa, Friday, March 22, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)People mill around the bar at the Geyserville Gun Club and Lounge in the Odd Fellows Building in Geyserville. (The Press Democrat)
Geyserville Gun Club, Geyserville
This former Masonic lodge masquerades as the most next-level bar in the county. Though their craft cocktails would spit in your eye if you called them that, selections like the She Devil, with mezcal, cherry liqueur, a squeeze of citrus and a dusting of ghost pepper are certainly creative. The bar menu is a munchie fantasy: fat Korean tacos with Kewpie mayo and bonito flakes, for example, and some of the tastiest burgers around. 21025 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-814-0036, geyservillegunclub.com
The Swiss Hotel, Sonoma
There’s no better place to take in the scene on the Sonoma Plaza than from one of these outdoor tables, a well-mixed Negroni in your hand. This historic hotel and restaurant has been around for well over a century, and the sense of history shows. A collection of beer steins hang above the bar, black-and-white photos of sportsmen and Hollywood actors cover the walls, and the menu is filled with classic Italian, family-style favorites like pastas and chops. There’s an epic wall of wine bottles, many rare and historic, in the main dining room. 18 W. Spain St., Sonoma, 707-938-2884, swisshotelsonoma.com
Historic photos fill the walls in the bar of the Swiss Hotel on West Spain Street in Sonoma. (Robbi Pengelly/Index-Tribune)People dine on fresh seafood at Fishetarian in Bodega Bay. (Kim Carroll)
Fishetarian, Bodega Bay
This easy-going seafood shack right on the Bodega Harbor boasts fresh-caught fish daily and picnic table seating just steps from the water. You can’t go wrong with the menu here, with picks like platters of fat oysters served raw or barbecue-style, Boston-style clam chowder, fish tacos and crab cakes. Stock up for the fridge back at home at the fresh seafood counter. 599 Highway 1, Bodega Bay, 707-875-9092,fishetarianfishmarket.com
The Casino Bar & Grill, Bodega
Oh, Casino, how we love you — and we hope you never change. This classic waystation in the town of Bodega was overseen by the legendary Evelyn Casini for 75 years. Evelyn passed away last September at age 97, but Casino keeps going, fueling ranchers, fishermen and lucky visitors to this tight-knit town of 200. The Casino hosts rotating popups from various local chefs. 17000 Bodega Hwy, Bodega, 707-876-3185, facebook.com/thecasinobarandgrill
The town of Bodega turned out to celebrate 75 years of Casini ownership of the Casino Bar & Grill in Bodega, Monday, July 1, 2024. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)Jack’s Filling Station on Broadway in Sonoma not only sells gas, beer and wine, but you can pick up a vintage vinyl record, a canned candle, and any number of sundries and unique items. The retro vibe is prominent throughout the building, and there are many small vintage still life paintings scattered around the store. (Robbi Pengelly)
Jack’s Filling Station, Sonoma
It’s the only place we know where you can both fill up your gas tank and walk away with a vintage vinyl record and a six-pack of craft beer or a bottle of natural wine from an up-and-coming producer. The Little Lou’s food truck is parked at the side most mornings, with gigantic breakfast burritos and some of the best burgers in town. 899 Broadway, Sonoma, 707-343-7203,jacksfillingstation.com
Washoe House, Petaluma
This fun roadhouse on the rural outskirts of Petaluma and Cotati is one of the oldest buildings in the county, dating back to 1859. Over the decades, it’s been a stagecoach station, a dance hall and a locals’ watering hole, with pinned-up dollar bills and handwritten messages absolutely plastering the ceiling. The food is good, from barbecue oysters and steaks to Henhouse fried chicken and fried cheese curds. 2840 Roblar Road, Petaluma,707-795-4544, washoehouse.feastbuffet.site
Patrons sit at the bar at Washoe House in Petaluma on Wednesday, Nov. 21, 2018. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)A pit stop at Dry Creek General Store in Healdsburg. (Kim Carroll)
Dry Creek General Store, Healdsburg
This distinctive green-and-white clapboard 1881 general store and restaurant is the place to stop on a wine-tasting tour through rural Dry Creek Valley west of Healdsburg, near the Lambert Bridge. It’s the heart of this small rural crossroads, with cellar staff stopping in for takeout deli sandwiches during harvest and mixing it up with dressed-up visitors having a glass of wine on the porch. The adjoining bar is back with its distinctive saddle barstools, and everyone’s having a good time. 3495 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-4171,drycreekgeneralstore1881.com
Yuri Hauswald, who has won the overall men’s race at the Dirty Kanza 200, rides along Chileno Valley Road in Petaluma, on Tuesday, June 30, 2015. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
These are the essential places and experiences that define living in Sonoma County — comfort food for the soul, as we like to say. Think Dungeness crab sandwiches wolfed down just steps from the water, a quiet walk under a thick canopy of redwoods, a barstool calling your name at a decades-old watering hole where the owner insists you put away your phone. Settle down, take a deep breath and ease into the new year right.
Winding Weekend Drives
Head northeast from Healdsburg on Highway 128 past the wineries ofAlexander Valley to rural Knights Valley, where you’ll take in views of a historic 1,200-acre cattle ranch (that donates some of its beef to people in need), a trout farm, and distant hills layered upon mountains. Time seems to stop in this hidden corner of the county.
Medio riders climb Coleman Valley Road during the King Ridge GranFondo. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)A bucolic scene along Chileno Valley Road. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)Yuri Hauswald, who has won the overall men’s race at the Dirty Kanza 200, rides along Chileno Valley Road in Petaluma, on Tuesday, June 30, 2015. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
CurvyColeman Valley Road begins in Occidental and leads west, emerging from a series of redwood groves onto a hilltop plateau of prairie-like pasturelands. From the very top, before the road takes a curvy, jaw-dropping descent to join Highway 1, you can often watch the sun sink into banks of pillowy fog.
Ramble westward through the agricultural valleys outside Petaluma, starting on Western Avenue toChileno Valley Road for the seasonal spectacle at Helen Putnam Regional Park. From there, take Chileno Valley Road west and then north, before looping back to town via Tomales Road and Bodega Avenue. Especially stunning when the skies clear just after a storm.
Live Music
Little Saint, Healdsburg
Every show feels like an intimate house concert at this music club and gathering space on the second floor of a well-known plant-based restaurant. The owners and concert programmer are well plugged into the folk/Americana scene, and free concerts happen most Thursday nights, along with occasional ticketed shows. Superstar trio boygenius played a surprise under-the-radar show here in 2023. 25 North St., littlesainthealdsburg.com/liveatlittlesaint
Boygenius fans line up before a sold-out show at Little Saint in Healdsburg. (Emma K Creative)Boygenius plays Little Saint in Healdsburg. (Emma K Creative)
The Mystic Theatre, Petaluma
A 1911 vaudeville theater-turned-club with a landmark marquee anchors the North Bay music scene, booking national touring acts, tribute bands, comedy shows, and more. Seeing a show here is a true step back in time, the intimate kind of venue that real music fans love. 23 Petaluma Blvd. N.,mystictheatre.com
The 222, Healdsburg
Jazz trios, choral music and opera are just some of what’s heard at this community-minded art gallery and performance space just off the Healdsburg Plaza. Also poetry readings and film nights. Always thoughtful, always welcoming. 222 Healdsburg Ave.,the222.org
Wander the Redwoods
Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve, Guerneville
The classic 805-acre reserve has both strenuous hikes and paved, accessible strolls along gorgeous Fife Creek. The Colonel Armstrong Tree, the oldest in the grove at an estimated 1,400 years, honors the Civil War Union officer who first preserved this special place. 17000 Armstrong Woods Road,parks.ca.gov
Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve in Guerneville. (Mariah Harkey/Sonoma County Tourism)The lake at Riverfront Regional Park in Healdsburg. (Sonoma County Tourism)
Riverfront Regional Park, Healdsburg
Along the banks of the Russian River just steps from vineyards, this pretty grove connects to easy riverside trails and access to the water for kayakers and paddleboarders. 7821 Eastside Road, parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov
Red Hill, Near Jenner
In Sonoma Coast State Park, the Red Hill and Pomo Canyon trails loop through coastal grasslands and very pretty stands of coast redwoods fed by nearby springs. 8901 Highway 1,parks.ca.gov
Neighborhood Crossroads
The Starling, Sonoma
In Sonoma, this locals bar has quite the scene, with live music as a mainstay two to three nights a week, plus plenty of cold beers and interesting craft cocktails. They’ve recently added comedy nights and line dancing, plus meatball sandwiches (YES!) and hot pizza from an oven out back. Feeling brave? The open mic night is one of the best around. 19380 Highway 12, 707-938-7442, starlingsonoma.com
Underwood Bar and Bistro, Graton
In rural Graton, take a seat at the big, loud, nickel-topped bar to rub shoulders with west county winemakers, farmers and other cool kids. All around, folks indulge in French onion soup laden with molten Gruyère, duck confit with lentils, flatiron steaks and, interestingly, some mighty fine Thai dishes. 9113 Graton Road, 707-823-7023, underwoodgraton.com
Flat Iron Steak Frites at Underwood Bar and Bistro, in Graton. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)Guinness Braised Beef Pie with mushrooms and toasted carrots and a side of greens from The Goose & Fern, Wednesday, March 6, 2024, in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The Goose & Fern, Santa Rosa
This British-style pub in Railroad Square has deep green walls covered in horseracing prints and a big TV tuned to Premier League soccer (football!). The menu has hearty pub favorites like Guinness pie, bangers and mash, and local rock cod fish and chips — they’ll even give you the crispy bits from the deep fryer to nibble on for free. Such a chill addition to the nightlife scene in Santa Rosa. 116 Fifth St., 707-843-4235, thegooseandfern.com
Public Gardens
Glen Ellen’s Sonoma Botanical Garden has a focus on library specimens of rare Asian trees and ornamental plants, including Japanese maples, obscure magnolias and dogwoods, and lilies. A section of the garden focused on California native plants offers inspiration for their use in local landscapes, helping visitors become smarter, more water-wise gardeners. 12841 Highway 12, Glen Ellen, 707-996-3166, sonomabg.org
The rose garden at Luther Burbank Home and Gardens in Santa Rosa. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)Spring colors envelop John Leipsic of Larkspur and Wendy Robbins of Massachusetts as they tour the Western Hills Garden in Occidental, Tuesday, May 14, 2019. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat)
Self-taught horticulturalist Luther Burbank laid down roots in Sonoma County in 1875 and called our landscape “the chosen spot” in all the world. He bred and propagated more than 800 varieties of plants, including plums, potatoes, lilies and spineless cactus. Learn about his legacy on a self-guided visit to his home and gardens in Santa Rosa or tour the remaining 3 acres of his experimental farm in Sebastopol. 204 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-524-5445, lutherburbank.org
Western Hills Garden outside Occidental was bought by a new generation of owners in 2021 and has been relaunched as a nonprofit for the community. New seasonal collaborations and public events include concerts, botanical craft workshops, and, recently, a reading from artist and author Obi Kaufmann of “The California Field Atlas.” The gardens encompass three lushly planted acres with five ponds and 34 bridges — and while it remains rather under the radar, it’s a must-see. 16250 Coleman Valley Road, Occidental, 707-872-5463, westernhillsgarden.com
Wild Flour Bread in Freestone bakes about 1,000 loaves, scones and sticky buns each day. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
With its rugged coastline, historic charm and some of the freshest seafood on the West Coast, Bodega Bay is a must-visit for anyone craving a classic Northern California escape. Whether you’re savoring a warm bowl of chowder with harbor views, exploring scenic coastal trails, or indulging in fresh-baked treats along the way, a day here is as breathtaking as it is delicious.
Where to go
There will be a line. There is always a line. But it moves fast, and after your first bite of a scone laced with Meyer lemon and blackberry or butternut squash, Gouda and onions, you’ll vow to return to Freestone’sWild Flour Bread (140 Bohemian Highway). The landmark bakery is just off the winding highway that many travel to reach the two sister communities, Bodega and Bodega Bay, that are such a draw in winter seafood season.
Krikit Morris has been making sticky buns and bread for over 17 years at Wild Flour Bread in Freestone. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
There’s something about that first glimpse of the white steeple ofSt. Teresa of Avila Church (17242 Bodega Highway) in the distance that captures the spirit of Bodega’s serene surroundings. The simple façade was made famous by two great artists, photographer Ansel Adams and film director Alfred Hitchcock, and its beauty still resonates today. You don’t want to just blow through the small town that surrounds the church — after all, the ocean isn’t going anywhere.
If you’re questioning whether you should have brought that extra hoodie, now’s your chance to pick one up at neighboringNorthern Light Surf Shop (17191 Bodega Highway). Also in the town of Bodega, theDodrill Gallery(17175 Bodega Highway), located in a former butcher shop, showcases the work of adventure photographer Jerry Dodrill, who shoots climbers and adventurers around the world. His rich photographs of Sonoma County landscapes remind us to seek out special experiences close to home.
Northern Lights Surf Shop in Bodega. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)Patrick’s Salt Water Taffy in Bodega Bay, Wednesday, May 17, 2023. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
The drive from Bodega out to Bodega Head adds to the magic of the day’s journey. Take the time to notice the windswept hues and fluttering kites of the shops along the coastal highway, and stop in atPatrick’s of Bodega Bay (915 Highway 1), a sweets shop with a sweet, pink-and-white striped paint job. Later in the week, when you’re wishing you were at the coast, a stash of saltwater taffy can ease the sting.
Continue around the small bay toSpud Point Crab Co. (1910 Westshore Road), where you can take in views of a resilient fleet of fishing boats harbored in Spud Point Marina and warm up with a cup of clam chowder. Nearby,Bodega Head promises striking views with little effort. It may be a bit early for migrating whales, but there are crashing waves and many other types of coastal life, including seals and birds. If the tide is cooperating, save a few moments to pull into Campbell Cove, the too-often overlooked stretch of sand at the base of Bodega Head. At low tide, the tidepools here sparkle with sea stars and anemones.
Head to Spud Point Crab Company and pick up delicious clam chowder, then eat it on a picnic blanket overlooking the ocean at Bodega Head. (John Burgess / Press Democrat)A cold beer with the Captain’s Platter served with Dungeness crab, fried calamari, beer battered shrimp and rock cod with a side of Dipper fries at Rocker Oysterfeller’s at Lucas Wharf in Bodega Bay on Friday, Aug. 23, 2024. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)
A swell way to cap a day on the coast is from a table by the window at the new Southern-style fish house,Rocker Oysterfeller’s at Lucas Wharf (595 Highway 1), which has brought even more fun to the waterfront scene here, already a standout with fresh fish from the counter next door at Fishetarian. As the sun sets, watch for harbor seals at play from a table topped with local barbecue oysters and the giant Captain’s Platter, with seafood and hand-cut fries.
Find more of the best places to eat, drink and stay on the Sonoma Coast here.
Raspberry Lemon Tart with pomegranate jam, and lemon cream from Table Culture Provisions in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
I’m always amazed at the number of brave souls daring enough to open a restaurant. Despite grueling hours, minimal profit margins and increasing challenges — like the cost of eggs quadrupling — there are still determined Sonoma County restaurateurs opening their doors every week. Here are some of the most recent entrants and those we’re anticipating later this year.
January
Mr. Stroopwafel: The Dutch teatime cookie gets an American twist at this Petaluma sweet shop. The thin wafers are filled with caramel, but at Mr. Stroopwafel, you can get them dipped in chocolate and covered with fresh strawberries, mini marshmallows, Biscoff cookies and other nuts and candies. 441 N. McDowell Blvd., Suite 24, Petaluma, mrstroopwafelusa.com
Lacquered Duck with fresh and preserved berries, persimmon, burnt orange with a broth of grilled duck bones, douglas fir and meyer lemon from the multicourse tasting menu at Enclos in Sonoma, Thursday, Jan. 16, 2025. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)Chef Brian Limoges is creating a buzz in the culinary world with his unique, terroir-driven multicourse tasting menu at Enclos in Sonoma, Thursday, Jan. 16, 2025. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Enclos: All eyes are on this Michelin contender in Sonoma. The intimate, 30-seat fine dining experience is headed by chef Brian Limoges, an alum of Atelier Crenn, Quince and Birdsong restaurants in San Francisco. Enclos sources produce from Stone Edge Farm’s 16-acre organic gardens just north of downtown Sonoma. The multicourse menu focuses on seasonally-aligned dishes that pair well with Stone Edge Farm’s Bordeaux-style wines. 139 E. Napa St., Sonoma, 707-387-1724, enclos-sonoma.com
February
Darbar: Casual Indian cuisine with an extensive lunch buffet in downtown Santa Rosa. 615 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-919-3095, darbarkitchensr.com
L’Oro di Napoli, Petaluma: The second location for the owners of downtown Santa Rosa’s favorite Neapolitan pizzeria. The 8,000-square-foot Petaluma restaurant offers wood-fired pizza and an expanded menu of pasta and appetizers. 208 Petaluma Blvd. N, Petaluma, 707-981-7175, lorodinapolisantarosa.com
March
Bavette steak from Stella in Kenwood. (Courtesy of Stella)Zeppole donuts with mascarpone and candied fruit from Stella in Kenwood. (Courtesy of Stella)
Stella: The Cal-meets-Ital restaurant from the owners of Glen Ellen Star opened on March 1 at the former Cafe Citti. The menu leans heavily on housemade pasta, woodfired meats and sides. Unlike Glen Ellen Star, there is no pizza — but there is a mozzarella bar. The restaurant is the newest venture for chef Ari Weiswasser, his wife Erin and managing partners Spencer and Ashley Waite. Glen Ellen Star’s chef de cuisine, Bryant Minuche, leads the Stella kitchen. 9049 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-801-8043, stellakenwood.com
April
El Roy’s Santa Rosa: El Roy’s Express Mex, popular for its bright orange fleet of taco trucks, will open a brick-and-mortar restaurant in south Santa Rosa less than a half mile from its 2728 Santa Rosa Ave. food truck location. La Plaza and Los Dos Gallos previously occupied the space. The new restaurant will include indoor and outdoor seating and a drive-through window. 602 Elsa Drive, Santa Rosa, elroys.com
April/May
Mixed doughnuts from Carmel-based Dutch Door Donuts. The cooked-to-order doughnuts will be coming to Healdsburg in spring 2025. (Patrick Tregenza)
Dutch Door Donuts: The former Burdock space has gotten a bright orange paint makeover in preparation for the arrival of this Carmel-based doughnut shop. The menu features made-to-order masterpieces of fried dough that come in seasonal flavors like passion fruit and hibiscus, miso caramel, salted brown butter and almond sesame cinnamon. For purists, there’s also vanilla, chocolate and cinnamon. 109A Plaza St., Healdsburg, dutchdoordonuts.com
Acre Pasta:Acre Pizza owner Steve DeCosse has taken over the 850-square-foot oyster and Champagne bar formerly owned by Sushi Kosho’s Jake Rand. DeCosse founded Acre Coffee (now Avid Coffee) and plans to open an affordable pasta restaurant at 6770 McKinley St., Sebastopol.
Late May
In Napa — Carabao: French Laundry alums Mathew and Jade Cunningham are set to open a brick-and-mortar Filipino restaurant in Napa this May. Carabao takes its name from the national animal of the Philippines — a hardy species of water buffalo that symbolizes resilience and a deep connection to the land. 145 Gasser Drive, Suite C, Napa
Jade and Mathew Cunningham will open Carabao in Napa this spring. (Carabao)Bijou will serve desserts from Table Culture Provisions pastry chef Sylvain Parsy. (Kim Carroll)
Bijou: The owners of Table Culture Provisions (TCP) will open a new French-inspired restaurant, Bijou, at the former Easy Rider in downtown Petaluma after plans to take over the former Quinua Cocina Peruana (500 Petaluma Blvd. S.) stalled. “It’s our little jewel,” said Table Culture Provisions executive chef and co-owner Stéphane Saint Louis of the contemporary California-French restaurant. Saint Louis will head the kitchen while business partners Marta Saint Louis and chef de cuisine Steven Vargas remain at Table Culture Provisions. 190 Kentucky St., Petaluma
Jimtown and then Sum: The famous Jimtown Store will hopefully reopen this year under Michelle Wood, the owner of Dim Sum and Then Sum. Watch for pop-ups and opening announcements at jimtown.com. 6706 CA-128, Healdsburg
New owner of Jimtown Store, Michelle Wood, plans to remodel and reopen the iconic Alexander Valley destination, renaming it Jimtown and Then Sum. Wood also owns the catering company Dim Sum and Then Sum. Sunday, April 7, 2024. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)A dish from SingleThread alum David Sisler and Portland chef Jacob Harth’s forthcoming restaurant, Winnie’s, previewed at a pop-up at Healdsburg’s Maison Wine Bar in August 2024. (Courtesy of Jacob Harth)
P.F. Chang’s: The Chinese food chain known for its lettuce wraps and 11-foot horse statues has pushed back its opening date at the Santa Rosa Plaza until late 2025. Menus at pfchangs.com.
Photos with Pegasus at the “Banquet of the Gods” TOWN dinner at Montage Healdsburg on Feb. 6, 2025. (Courtesy of Dana Rebmann)
Got plans Friday night? The people behind the TOWN dinner series — short for Traveling Off-Season For Wine Night — are taking their dinner theatrics to new heights and the community is invited.
You don’t need a ticket. Just be in downtown Healdsburg around 9:15 p.m., March 7. Exactly what’s planned is on a need-to-know basis. But anyone who’s been to a TOWN dinner will likely tell you the sky’s the limit for what co-founders Arthur Murray, of Flambeaux Wine, and Alexander Harris (who goes by A3l3xzand3r), of The Harris Gallery Art & Wine Collection, can dream up and turn into reality.
“Always be on the lookout when we’re planning an event,” said Harris. “We like the show to go above and beyond.”
A fire dancer at the “Seven Deadly Sins” TOWN dinner on March 28, 2024, at Montage Healdsburg. (Kim Carroll)Jesse Katz, Alexander Harris and Arthur Murray at the “Banquet of the Gods” TOWN dinner at Montage Healdsburg on Feb. 6, 2025. (Courtesy of Dana Rebmann)
The TOWN dinner series kicked off its 2025 season at Montage Healdsburg’s Hazel Hill in early February, and as promised, the “Banquet of the Gods”-themed affair was the antithesis to a stuffy wine dinner. Murray, Harris and guest winemaker Jesse Katz, owner of Aperture Cellars, donned their finest togas for the evening.
“I probably have done more wine dinners here [Montage Healdsburg] than anyone in this room I can imagine, and I am going to move to togas from here on out. This is a comfortable outfit and I am loving this,” Katz joked before going on to describe Aperture’s Sauvignon Blanc.
Even Pegasus, the mythical winged horse featured in countless Greek legends, dropped by. OK, Pegasus was, in fact, a white horse from Sonoma County wearing a pair of wispy wings, but you get the idea.
A sloth made a guest appearance at the “Seven Deadly Sins” TOWN dinner at Montage Healdsburg on March 28, 2024. (Kim Carroll)
When Harris and Murray created TOWN, the goal was to attract out-of-town visitors during the off-season. That’s still a priority, but the unconventional dinner series has earned a dedicated local following and the duo said this Friday’s secret show will allow more of the community in on the spectacle.
Details on the event are very hush-hush, but we’re told it will take place as TOWN’s “Revolutions” dinner at Hotel Healdsburg’s Dry Creek Kitchen winds down and guests head outside to prepare to depart. The theme “Revolutions” is said to pay tribute to both the French Revolution and the Bohemian Revolution.
Muay Thai fighters at “Thai-ing a Bow on the Holidays” TOWN dinner at Khom Loi in Sebastopol on Dec. 14, 2023. (Courtesy of TOWN)
At some point, an arguably wild idea took hold to have an elephant on the guest list.
Why an elephant? It’s an important symbol with historical ties, particularly in Paris. The site of the Bastille and the Moulin Rouge both featured elephant shaped structures in the 1800s. Though you may not remember mentions from school, Hollywood embraced the history and symbolism in the movies “Moulin Rouge!” and “Les Misérables.”
Ultimately, the elephant in the room idea was nixed for not only a more elevated experience, but a choreographed opportunity to invite the community in on some fun.
“Let’s just say it is something that has never happened in downtown Healdsburg,” said Murray.
Visit the TOWN website and @towndinners on Instagram for the latest updates. Heavy rain would cancel the show.
A Camp Meeker church and parsonage, converted into a home and cottage, are currently listed for $1,295,000. (Darren Loveland)
An early 1900s-era church and parsonage in west Sonoma County that was converted into a home and cottage are currently listed for sale. The modernized dwellings are on half an acre in Camp Meeker, once a logging community that later transformed into a summer retreat. Today it’s a small community of full-time residents, plus vacationers and weekenders. The asking price for this wooded property is $1,295,000.
The former church at 100 Railroad Ave. is a two-bedroom, three-bathroom home with cathedral ceilings and a grid of floor-to-ceiling windows that provide a showstopping view of redwoods. The original pine floors and siding remain.
The kitchen has been renovated with a dramatic Calacatta marble. Cabinets are painted deep blue that lands on the sophisticated side of playful. A floating bar of old redwood growth adds a warm reference to the surroundings and town’s history.
Kitchen in Camp Meeker home. (Darren Loveland)Deck at Camp Meeker bungalow. (Darren Loveland)
Other upgrades include fiberglass windows, copper plumbing, heated bathroom floors and a tankless water heater.
The former parsonage next door at 97 Railroad Ave. is a stylish one-bedroom, one-bathroom bungalow on 618 square feet with vaulted ceilings. Updates include soapstone kitchen counters, adding modern sleekness to warm wood finishes.
The home epitomizes serenity with maples among the redwoods, dramatically sized boulders and a koi pond.
This compound is just a short distance to Occidental and the Sonoma Coast.
For more information on these homes at 97 and 100 Railroad Ave. in Camp Meeker, contact listing agent Ross Bostock,415-592-4420, or Greggory Onzo-Tasher, 415-609-5451, Vanguard Properties, vanguardproperties.com
