The North Sonoma Mountain Trail winds through North Sonoma Mountain Regional Park and Open Space Preserve, with a view of Bennett Valley, in Santa Rosa on Tuesday, April 25, 2017. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
Sonoma County is a hiker’s paradise. With its numerous public parks, there are seemingly infinite trails to explore in every part of the region. There are trails that ascend mountains and meander up hills and down valleys, trails that overlook oceans and wind their way alongside streams and rivers. And then there are paths that pass by vineyards, weave around oak groves and under the shade of giant redwoods. With so many options, how do you choose where to begin?
We asked our friends at AllTrails, an outdoor recreational activities app with crowdsourced reviews, to share the top-rated trails in different parts of Sonoma County. First up, the 10 best hikes near the town of Sonoma. Click through the above gallery for details.
Sarah and Anna Dozor operate Winter Sister Farm in Sebastopol, focusing specifically on providing vegetables in the off-season when other farms shut down production. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
At a plot of land just east of Sebastopol, Sarah Dozor dodges fat raindrops, flashing silver as a brilliant sun breaks through roiling gray clouds.
Nearby, two women wrestle plastic for a tall hoop house to fill with plantings of arugula and other delicate greens. With steel ribs and a plastic skin that allows the inside to warm like a greenhouse, the hoop house can fit farm equipment inside and move around to different areas of the farm as needed. The downside: powerful winter storms can shred the plastic skins, and sometimes even send the entire contraption sailing through the air.
But such is the life of a farmer— and perhaps even more so for farmers like the Dozor sisters, Sarah and Anna, who specialize in winter vegetables at their 9-acre Winter Sister Farm. For most Sonoma County growers, December through March are sleepy seasons, dominated by citrus and squash. But the sisters purchased their land, located on the edge of the Laguna de Santa Rosa, specifically to take advantage of the area’s relatively mild winter climate.
The sisters grow plenty of standards—kale, spinach, potatoes, carrots—but also buttery Nadmorska rutabagas, earthy kohlrabi, salsify, nutty-toned Romanesco, Crunchy King radishes, and Mediterranean scorzonera, with its intriguing flavor reminiscent of asparagus or, some say, oysters.
Chilis dry at Winter Sister Farm in Sebastopol. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)Varieties of squash left to dry at Winter Sister Farm in Sebastopol. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
“This season usually means a lot of root vegetables and braising greens, and you think you can’t avoid a certain redundancy,” says Sarah. “But I’m just amazed at how our locals are. When we were doing our crop plan, I said ‘Nobody wants rutabagas.’ But Anna said that they would. And it’s true—the people who sign up for our kind of CSA are wonderfully weird and snatch up all the turnips.”
Winter Sister’s has an unusual CSA subscription from November through May, complementing other local farms’ summer offerings. Most local CSAs sell prepackaged, monthly boxes, meaning that people who hate kale can end up getting a lot of it, and even the kale-lovers can end up with so much they can’t use it all. Instead, Winter Sister Farm offers free-choice selections on a flexible basis, meaning members can visit the farm twice a week and choose exactly what, and how much, they want.
So the sisters stock their 100-year-old tractor barn with tables laden with fresh Cleo dandelion greens, colorful Swiss chard, peppery mustard greens, red butterhead lettuce, and beets that boast tall, glossy leaves to use like greens. And because the sisters work year-round, they have other storage crops that can be turned into winter sustenance, like onions, squash, dried peppers, cornmeal, and gold tepary beans.
The farm is far from bare in the winter, as the sisters farm several types of greens in tall hoop houses, plus staple crops like squash and peppers. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)The sisters have a small flock of Jacob sheep for meat and wool. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
The farmwork, which Sarah admits can sometimes seem dreary when the sun sets at 5 p.m., does help fill a gap in the local food system. And it elevates ingredients for winter’s slow-braising soups, stews, and casseroles. “We have broccoli that we planted in summer, and really talks to us now,” she said. “It’s a magic plant that just hangs out, and then gives us food when almost nothing else is ready.”
After just three years working their land, the sisters have developed a rhythm, of seed-to-dirt, harvest to storage, or near daily fresh-pick. “We work closely to mirror our seasons,” says Sarah. “It’s been a lot of figuring out the scale and size of what we can do, and a lot of it is the timing. Because you don’t have as much wiggle room as summer, where you can grow another crop if one doesn’t work.”
There are also the challenges of winter weather, like last year’s massive rain and wind storms. That’s when the Dozor sisters are grateful to the model of the CSA. In 2023, the sisters had their high tunnels blow down twice, and a lot of their salad greens were lost. But their customers stood by them. Some brought the women wine and home-baked bread; others lent equipment or pitched in to erect new hoop houses.
“I didn’t hear a word of grumpiness around it, which would have been their right, because they didn’t have arugula for a month,” says Sarah. “We lost a lot of food. It was dramatic, and we lost hours putting hoops back up—but we didn’t actually lose income.”
“And there’s no way our business would be here this year if we hadn’t had that amazing, sweet, community support.”
The Dozor sisters’ Winter Sister Farm CSA is limited to about 150 members, who visit the farm once a week to select veggies and pick flowers and herbs. Shares start at $830 for a 24-week season that runs November to May. For nonmembers, there is also a farmstand, open to the public on Tuesdays from 2-6 p.m. and Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Winter Sister Farm, 1670 Cooper Road., Sebastopol. wintersisterfarm.com
Sarah and Anna Dozor walk towards the fields at Winter Sister Farm in Sebastopol. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
More Sonoma County Farms for Winter Veggies
Longer Table Farm: A 10-acre Santa Rosa farm growing organic vegetables and flowers year-round for farmers markets and local grocery stores. Try the Rosalba radicchio, which looks a bit like prosciutto and tastes like bitter chicory. 707-758-2021, longertablefarm.com
Red H Farm: This boutique 1.2-acre Sebastopol farm has a monthly Winter Nourishment CSA, for December through February box pickups of storage crops and an array of produce and herbs. redhfarm.com
Open Field Farm: The biodynamic Petaluma farm offers a year-round CSA with a model like Winter Sister Farm, in which members are free to choose their own veggies. 707-775-4644, openfieldfarm.com
Radical Family Farms: Look for the farm’s specialty Asian heritage vegetables and herbs, including fragrant Holy basil and gorgeous cabbages and greens, year-round at the Sunday morning Sebastopol Farmers Market. 707-210-2773, radicalfamilyfarms.com
Vegetable soup ingredients at Winter Sister Farm in Sebastopol. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
Red Borscht
Winter Sister Farm, Sebastopol
Farmer Sarah Dozor stitched together this warming vegetarian recipe from a few different cookbook and online sources. “Borscht is one of my favorite winter recipes,” she says. “It is warming, hearty, and very simple—just what I needed for a frosty evening meal.”
• 3 tsp. extra virgin olive oil or other vegetable oil
• 1 large onion, chopped (about 1 ½ cups)
• 8 cups vegetable broth
• 4 large beets, peeled and chopped
• 4 carrots, peeled and chopped
• 1 potato or rutabaga, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
• 2 cups thinly sliced cabbage
• 3 tbsp. red wine vinegar
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 1 cup sour cream or yogurt, for topping (Sarah uses a homemade yogurt made with raw milk from Sebastopol’s Bramble Tail Homestead)
• Chopped herbs such as parsley, dill, or scallions, for garnish
Heat the oil in a large pot. Add the chopped onion and cook until softened, about five minutes.
Add the beets, carrots, and potato or rutabaga. Mix with the cooked onion and allow to partially soften in the pot, about five minutes.
Add the broth. Cover the pot and bring the mixture to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer until the vegetables are soft, about 30 minutes. Add about half the cabbage and cook through.
After all the vegetables have softened, remove the pot from heat. Using an immersion blender, blend until the soup is mostly smooth, leaving some chunks for texture. (If you don’t have an immersion blender, you can blend the soup in batches in a regular blender.)
Return the pot to the stove. Add the red wine vinegar and the remainder of the shredded cabbage, and heat through. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Serve with a dollop of yogurt or sour cream and chopped herbs on top.
The Stewarts Point Ranch bordered by the Pacific Ocean to the west and the Gualala River to the east. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)
This article was originally published in the January/February 2022 issue of Sonoma Magazine. It was updated on Jan. 17, 2024.
Lace up your boots—here are our standout picks for each month of 2024. Click through the above gallery to take in some of the scenery.
January — Armstrong Redwoods
Armstrong Redwoods is a great place to relax and recharge after the bustle of the holiday season. Here, magnificent, 1,200-year-old Sequoia sempervirens, commonly known as coastal redwoods, tower in a way that makes humans feel very small and very serene. 17000 Armstrong Woods Road, Guerneville. 17000 Armstrong Woods Road, Guerneville.
February — Bald Mountain
A steep, exposed trail leads to the summit of 2,729-foot Bald Mountain in Sugarloaf Ridge State Park. From there, forested ridgelines roll in every direction, Mount Diablo and San Francisco rise in the distance, and bright-yellow mustard glows between vineyard rows far below. 2605 Adobe Canyon Road, Kenwood.
March — Gualala Point
There’s no bad time to walk the Bluff Top Trail from Gualala Point Regional Park, whether through fog or heat (such as it is) or ocean breeze. But best may be on a clear March day, with the northward grey whale migration nearing its peak and mother-calf pairs hugging close to shore. 42401 Highway 1, Gualala.
April — Cloverdale River Park
Seven regional parks offer public access along the Russian River’s 64-mile course through Sonoma, this one being the farthest north. In April, as heady spring flows rush past, watch for wildlife among restored riparian habitat from the paved 1.1-mile trail. 31820 McCray Road, Cloverdale.
May — Red Hill
Southeast of Goat Rock and the Russian River mouth, on Pomo land and the site of a former ranch, lies 1,062foot Red Hill. On the hike up from Shell Beach, watch for sea pink, a native coastal wildflower that produces ball-shaped clusters of bright-pink blooms on long stalks every May and June. Highway 1 and Shell Beach Road, Jenner.
June — SDC’s Orchard
By the time the former Sonoma Development Center orchard was added to Jack London State Historic Park in 2001, it was nearly a century old. Today the revitalized plot still produces apples, pears, apricots, and plums. Walk the trails of the 40-acre orchard to marvel at this year’s budding crop. 2400 London Ranch Road, Glen Ellen.
The sun shines through the canopy at the Grove of Old Trees in Occidental. (Alvin Jornada/The Press Democrat)An inviting trailside bench allows visitors to take a rest in the Grove of Old Trees. (Alvin Jornada/The Press Democrat)
July — The Grove of Old Trees
Easygoing trails weave through and around this small, secluded preserve, which includes 1,000-yearold coast redwoods saved from the logger’s saw in the 1990s. The grove’s restorative properties are enhanced on a hot summer’s day by the shade and stillness of these ancient beings. 17599 Fitzpatrick Lane, Occidental.
August — Santa Rosa Creek Trail
Urban and rural, pavement and gravel, creeks and ponds: this cherished (and mostly shaded) Santa Rosa greenbelt offers a bit of everything. That can also include river otters, hawks, and a rare opportunity to stroll just feet away from historic vineyards, now on the verge of harvest. 782 Willowside Road, Santa Rosa.
September — Jenner Headlands
Hiking to the 2,204-foot summit of Pole Mountain, the highest point on the Sonoma Coast, offering unobstructed views in every direction, is a true peak experience — but it’s also a challenging, 15-mile affair. Luckily, on a shining latesummer day, the bright-blue sea dazzles from the first step. 12001 Highway 1, Jenner.
October — Taylor Mountain
Don’t miss fall colors on this beloved peak, where the palette is even richer from the top. Hike the serpentine trail to the summit amid vivid big-leaf maple, bay laurel, and arroyo willow, then peer down the southwestern flank onto golden vineyards. 3820 Petaluma Hill Road, Santa Rosa.
November — Crane Creek
Those glossy, caramel-colored, nut-like things lying everywhere along the trail from the parking lot to the creek are one of the marvels of early winter: California buckeyes, free of their velvety shell after dropping from their namesake tree. 5000 Pressley Road, Rohnert Park.
December — Tolay Lake Regional Park
As rains arrive, the lake starts to fill, and resident and migratory raptors become more active. From the ridgetops or the more intimate, lake-level Causeway Trail, look for white-chested ferruginous hawks soaring, agile American kestrels hunting, and broad-winged northern harriers floating low over the grass. 5869 Cannon Lane, Petaluma.
Spirit Works Distillery owners Timo and Ashby Marshall are celebrating their 10-year anniversary making gins, whiskeys and vodka in Sebastopol’s Barlow September 30, 2022. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
You know you’ve made it in the artisan food world when you win a Good Food Award.
For the past 14 years, San Francisco nonprofit the Good Food Foundation has sifted through thousands of entries — from honey and snacks to charcuterie and beer — to find the small, up-and-coming producers to watch each year. A Good Food Award can give these small, usually family-owned businesses a wider audience and the attention of foodies.
The award categories include beer, charcuterie, cheese, chocolate, cider, coffee, confections, drinks, elixirs, fish, grains, honey, oils, pantry items, pickles, preserves, snacks and spirits. Each submission is blind-tasted by a panel of professional food and beverage judges, who are looking for sustainably made and socially conscious products that are an “honest reflection of the best food and drink in America,” according to the Good Food Foundation.
From thousands of entries, the professional judges narrow the playing field to 428 products in the finals. This year, the winners will be announced in April. Here are the North Bay finalists in 2024. Click through the above gallery to meet some of these artisan producers.
Sonoma County
Canteen Meats, Beef Cecina (Petaluma): This “dry cured and cold smoked beef round,” popular in northern Spain, contains beef from Silver Sky Ranch and Beffa Springs in Petaluma. Enjoy it with olives, almonds and a glass of wine or sherry, recommends Canteen Meats. Find it at the West Marin Culture Shop in Point Reyes or online at canteenmeats.com.
Beef Cecina from Canteen Meats in Petaluma. (Canteen Meats)
Gold Ridge Organic Farms, Mandarin-Kumquat Shrub (Sebastopol): Gold Ridge Organic Farms’ Mandarin-Kumquat Shrub features organic mandarin-kumquat and citrus grown on the Gold Ridge estate, as well as a touch of sugar and small batch, barrel-aged apple cider vinegar and bay leaves. Available at goldridgeorganicfarms.com.
Spirit Works Distillery, Barrel Gin (Sebastopol): Spirit Works’ Barrel Gin is made from the same botanical distillation as their gin, but is aged for several months in new American White Oak barrel. The result: “a complex balance between the botanicals and the oak.” Available at spiritworksdistillery.com.
Spirit Works Distillery, Four Grain Straight Bourbon (Sebastopol): Spirit Works’ Four Grain Straight Bourbon Whiskey is “the proprietary master blend” of two of the distillery’s Bourbon formulas and features 60% corn with wheat, rye and barley in “the mash bills.” It is “especially delicious sipped neat,” according to the company. Available at spiritworksdistillery.com.
Tobias Glen Vineyard/California Wineries & Vineyards, Russian River Bee Raw Honey (Sonoma): Honeybees at these Sonoma vineyards produce “complex raw honey” with “floral notes from trees and perennials in bloom” in spring and “hints of apple, pear, and wild berries” later in the year. Available at tobiasglen.com/store.
Napa County
Clif Family Napa Valley, Organic Meyer Lemon Marmalade (St. Helena): Clif Family Napa Valley uses organic farming practice to grow their Meyer lemons. They are handpicked “at the perfect moment of ripeness” and turned into marmalade using a small batch process. With its balance of tartness and sweetness, it “makes the perfect addition to any breakfast spread or dessert topping,” according to the company. Available at cliffamily.com.
Marin County
Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company, Bay Blue (Point Reyes): The Bay Blue, “a rustic-style blue cheese with a natural rind, known for its mellow flavor and sweet, salted caramel finish” is “inspired by the sheer natural beauty of our coastal climate and locale,” writes Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company. Available from pointreyescheese.com.
Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company, Tomarishi (Point Reyes): The key to the “heat, umami and nutty flavors” of the TomaRishi is Shichimi Togarashi, “a Japanese spice blend containing chili flakes, nigella, chili powder, orange peel, ginger powder and nori,” according to Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company. Available from pointreyescheese.com.
Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company, Tomatruffle (Point Reyes): The TomaTruffle combines the cheesemaker’s classic Toma with black truffles from Umbria, Italy. “Reminiscent of undergrowth, fresh strawberries, dried fruit and a hint of cocoa, the earthy flavor marries beautifully with the buttery richness of Toma,” says Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company. Available from pointreyescheese.com.
Toluma Farms & Tomales Farmstead Creamery, Buona Fortuna (Tomales): A seasonal aged sheep’s milk cheese from animals on Toluma Farms, a 160-acre goat and sheep dairy and educational farm in Marin County, located on the ancestral homeland of the Coast Miwoks, according to the company. Available at tolumafarms.com.
Toluma Farms & Tomales Farmstead Creamery, Liwa (Tomales): Tomales Farmstead Creamery named this soft, Chèvre-style goat cheese and American Cheese Society award winner “Liwa,” the Coast Miwok word for “water,” out of “immense respect for the previous inhabitants and stewards of the land” on which Toluma Farms is located. Available at tolumafarms.com.
Fish, McFarland Springs Trout Dog (Sausalito): This McFarland Springs Trout hot dog served at Fish restaurant in Sausalito is dressed with housemade uni mustard and gypsy pepper relish. Available at Fish restaurant, 350 Harbor Dr., Sausalito. 331fish.com
Patagonia Provisions, Rosemary Garlic Organic Crackers (Sausalito): These crisp, herby crackers are made with organic and regeneratively grown and milled wheat from Washington State and pair well with cheese, tinned fish, smoked salmon and chicken salad, according to Patagonia Provisions. Available at patagoniaprovisions.com
Patagonia Provisions, Sourdough Sea Salt Organic Crackers (Sausalito): These crackers are also made with organic and regeneratively grown and milled wheat from Washington State. They pair well with cheese or tinned fish, as well as nut butters and jam, according to the company. Available at patagoniaprovisions.com
Mill Valley Pasta Co., Duck Egg Noodles (San Rafael): These egg noodles, made from local organic duck eggs, are like eating “the sensation of being draped in a blanket made out of the softest silk velvet while in a hot tub that is the perfect temperature … with your favorite slow jam playing softly in the background,” according to Mill Valley Pasta Co. Available at millvalleypasta.com.
Mill Valley Pasta Co., Porcini Radiatore (San Rafael): Radiatore means little radiators, and these little flanged pastas are perfect for pasta salads, pasta bakes and any pasta that has “a thicker sugo, thinner brodo, or a pasty condimento.” Available at millvalleypasta.com.
Mendocino County
Pennyroyal Farm, Boont Corners Vintage Tomme (Boonville): This cheese, made from fresh, raw milk, was named after the “Boontling” name for the site of the original Boonville, “Boont Corners” (The Corners), just a stone’s throw away from the location of Pennyroyal Farm. Available at pennyroyalfarm.com.
Gowan’s Cider, 1876 Heirloom Cider (Philo): Gowan’s 1876 Heirloom Cider is made from heirloom apples from the Gowan family’s heritage orchards. With notes of “caramel, stone fruit and rose,” it pairs well with many foods, including pancakes, pasta, cheese, chicken mole and barbecue, according to Gowan’s. Available at gowansheirloomcider.com.
Gowan’s Cider, Sierra Beauty Cider (Philo): The Gowan family planted rare Sierra Beauty apples in their orchards in 1906. This still applewine cider (no bubbles) has “aromas of shade flowers and notes of orange, apricot and spice,” according to the company. Available at gowansheirloomcider.com.
At Inman Family Wines in Santa Rosa. (Inman Family Wines)
When a power outage left Kathleen Inman with unfermented wine, the Sonoma County winemaker had an unconventional idea
While Kathleen Inman’s reputation was built on her crushable rosés, sparkling wines and nuanced pinot noirs, the Sonoma County winemaker has always had a soft spot for cocktails — especially the Negroni.
So, when a power outage during the 2017 Tubbs Fire left her with three barrels of mildly sweet pinot noir that hadn’t finished fermentation, she had an interesting idea.
“I’d been keeping the juice warm with aquarium heaters to encourage fermentation, but with no electricity, the wine became ice cold and fermentation stopped,” said Inman, founder of Inman Family Wines in Santa Rosa. “I thought, well, I have sweet red wine and I love a Negroni — why not make vermouth?”
Cocktail enthusiast Gabe Monheimer recently featured Inman Family’s vermouth in a recent Instagram post. (Credit: @BarMonheimer / Instagram)
What is vermouth?
Imbued with aromatic botanicals like herbs, spices and roots, vermouth is a fortified wine made with white or red grapes. It can be sweet or dry and is nearly always distinctly bitter.
While archaeological evidence in China suggests aromatized wines have been around at least as early as the Shang and Western Zhou dynasties (1250-2000 BC), modern vermouth was developed in 18th century Italy, where it was often used as a health tonic.
But it wasn’t until the late 1880s that vermouth became a popular ingredient in cocktails, eventually making its way into classics like the martini, Negroni, Manhattan, boulevardier and Americano.
In the Negroni — one of Inman’s favorite tipples — red vermouth is combined with equal parts gin and Campari (a bitter liqueur), then served on the rocks with an orange twist for the perfect aperitif.
Tiny-batch vermouth
After researching some of her favorite vermouths, Inman sourced a variety of organic seeds, herbs and other aromatics from Rosemary’s Garden, a popular herb shop in Sebastopol.
Experimenting with various botanical combinations, Inman presented some test samples to her friends Laura Sanfilippo and Tara Heffernon, owners of Lo & Behold cocktail bar and restaurant in Healdsburg.
“I brought them the samples and said, ‘you ladies need to tell me what you think about each one of these,’” Inman said. “After they gave some critiques, I went away and combined all their feedback to make the ultimate vermouth.”
In the end, 12 botanicals made the final cut for Inman’s vermouth, including star anise, cinnamon, Seville orange peels, coriander seeds, turkey rhubarb root, rose petals, gentian and artemisia absinthium (wormwood), among others.
After adding the aromatics to the pinot noir, she allowed the wine to macerate for three months before straining out the solids, then fortifying the resulting wine with eau de vie (colorless brandy) from Griffo Distillery in Petaluma.
After five years of aging in stainless steel, the vermouth was bottled last October. Released in December, the fortified wine already has proven popular with customers who are eager to get their hands on one of the 675 bottles and one of Sonoma County’s only homegrown vermouths.
“You never know what people are going to like, so the positive feedback has been great,” Inman said. “For me, the flavors and aromas of the rose petals, cloves and cinnamon mirror those in the pinot noir base wine. Then you have the boldness of the spice and bitterness of the absinthe, gentian and Seville orange peel. Those really perk up your palate and whet your appetite.”
Fortunately for vermouth fans, Inman has two additional batches undergoing aging, including a white vermouth made with the excess juice from the winery’s sparkling wine program.
“Besides the Negroni, my other favorite cocktail is the Corpse Reviver II, which uses white vermouth,” Inman said. “So I thought, why not give that a go?”
As for whether Inman plans to trade in wine for cocktails, that’s a definite no.
“To be honest, I’m just an equal opportunity imbiber,” she said.
The rustic sign marking the location of Barndiva in Healdsburg.
Longtime Healdsburg restaurant and three-time Michelin star awardee Barndiva has ended its upscale multicourse experience to return to its roots as a community hub and group dining space, according to co-owner Lukka Feldman.
Beginning Jan. 21, the restaurant and adjacent gallery will pivot to more casual suppers and private events curated by chef Erik Anderson.
“We’ve been proud of everything we’ve done over the 20 years we’ve been here, but we’re trying to get back to what makes us happy. We have always put an emphasis on sourcing locally; by expanding our menus in new directions this will allow us to reach even more local farmers growing unusual things,” Feldman said.
In response to the changes, 20 employees were laid off this week.
The move may seem counterintuitive for a restaurant noted as outstanding by the French guide to select eateries for three consecutive years. But Michelin stars can sometimes be a curse, creating crippling pressure on chefs and owners to constantly live up to soaring expectations or lose the interest of diners and Michelin inspectors.
The former K & L Bistro in Sebastopol and Mirepoix in Windsor both struggled to meet the exacting demands of customers after receiving a Michelin star. Mirepoix closed just a year after winning a Michelin star in 2012.
Barndiva’s owners — Feldman, Jil Hales and Geoff Hales — will host public suppers Sunday and Monday at the more informal Studio B gallery, at 237 Center St. Barndiva will offer reserved group space Thursday through Saturday at the restaurant and Studio B throughout the winter.
“It’s an exciting opportunity for a reset. I’m mindful that our colleagues are not here at the moment, but the whole industry is in flux,” Feldman said.
The ownership team describes the change as “a shift in the allocation of our time and how our rooms and gardens are enjoyed.”
Barndiva has always worn two hats — as a restaurant and a community hub for art, conversation, parties and weddings. Feldman said the change will allow for larger gatherings and a more casual feel.
“ … we have always believed that the reason people go out to dine is not a fixed star, Michelin or otherwise. We all long to return to tastes that trigger happiness and memory, to be excited by new food experiences, step into a room filled with music and engaging conversation. On the simplest and most profound level the sound of other humans having vibrant food and drink experiences gives us agency to enjoy ourselves more fully in the world,” read a blog on Barndiva’s website.
Nationwide, restaurateurs are looking for new ways to attract diners in the face of ongoing food cost increases and labor shortages. Winter is traditionally a lean season for Sonoma County hospitality as tourism traffic slows and local diners avoid winter weather.
“I think how people are eating is changing. We are sourcing locally and trying our best to move more toward zero waste, and (the new format) lends itself to that kind of dining. We’re just more ourselves,” Feldman said.
In addition to the menu changes, an ongoing discussion series about food waste will be held Feb. 16, and house mixologist Scott Beattie will offer private cocktail classes for groups.
Grilled Cheese with Hwy 1 Fontina, rosemary ham and kimchi with a side of garden pickles from the Valley Ford Cheese and Creamery in Valley Ford. (John Burgess/Sonoma Magazine)
Karen Bianchi-Moreda’s family-run Valley Ford Cheese and Creamery is an udder-to-table experience that’s uniquely Sonoma County. Last week, “Check, Please!” roving food reporter Cecilia Phillips got the scoop on the popular cheese factory and general store for the KQED program.
Meeting up with Bianchi-Moreda and her sons, Joe Jr. and Jim, at the dairy, Phillips tromped among the grass-fed cows that make Estero Gold, Valley Ford Cheese and Creamery’s flagship cheese (as well as others sold by the creamery).
Phillips also visited the creamery’s cheese shop where she tasted melty raclette-style Highway One cheese and some of the cafe’s fresh-baked pastries and sandwiches.
The family has been making cheese for over 100 years in Sonoma County. Bianchi-Moreda is a fourth-generation dairywoman who makes more than 8,000 wheels of cheese annually with her son Joe. Jr. Moreda’s son Jim manages the herd of more than 80 cows that wander the 640-acre ranch in Sonoma’s west county.
See the segment on Valley Ford Cheese and Creamery on “Check, Please!” in the gallery above.
Valley Ford Cheese and Creamery, 14390 Valley Ford Road, Valley Ford. 707-293-5636, valleyfordcheese.com
Pork Rillette eclair with pickled mustard seed and pinot noir grape jam at La Crema Winery in Windsor (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
An increasing number of Sonoma County wineries are saying goodbye to cheap chocolates and Cheeto pairings with their tasting flights. Instead, they’re upping the game with executive chefs creating elevated food and wine-tasting experiences that inform and entertain consumers.
At La Crema Winery in Windsor, Executive Chef Tracey Shepos Cenami has created a four-course pairing that includes deviled eggs with tobiko caviar, éclairs with pinot noir grape jam, pork rillette éclairs, Mycopia mushroom and squash tostadas with homemade mole sauce, and finishing with macarons ($85 per person).
You can also dial things back with a la carte small snacks like charred eggplant dip and toast ($8), fennel pollen and olive oil popcorn ($6), or lemon Parmesan potato chips ($8) with suggested pairings ($40 per person, complimentary for wine club members). Wine and caviar ($150) or a pairing of sparkling wine with a dozen oysters ($80) are also options if you’re looking to impress someone.
Inside La Crema Estate at Saralee’s Vineyard in Windsor. (La Crema)
The cozy downstairs tasting room at the Estate at Saralee’s Vineyard lets guests sit at tables overlooking the vineyards with knowledgeable hosts who walk you through La Crema’s limited-release wines — these aren’t the everyday grocery store wines most of us are familiar with — highly recommended for out-of-town visitors who want an authentic wine country experience.
Reservations are required for the experience, and the multicourse tasting, oyster pairing, and wine and caviar pairings are only available on weekends.
The Martin Luther King Jr Memorial located on the National Mall on the Tidal Basin in Washington DC. (Joseph Sohm/Shutterstock)
The upcoming federal holiday recognizing the life and work of the Rev. Martin Luther King Jr. falls on the third Monday each January. This year it lands on Jan. 15 — King’s birthday.
King was a nonviolent activist and the leader of the American Civil Rights Movement, which began in the 1950s and sought to end Jim Crow laws at the state and local levels that had enforced racial segregation meant to marginalize Black people.
Considered a controversial figure, he was the object of numerous incidents that were meant to hinder or stop the progress of the movement. Ultimately, King was assassinated April 4, 1968, in Memphis, Tennessee.
Despite this, the Civil Rights Movement sparked numerous advancements, such as the desegregation of interstate travel, and the passages of the Civil Rights Act of 1964, the Voting Rights Act of 1965 and the Fair Housing Act of 1968.
MLK Jr. Day is one of only two holidays in the U.S. that are also designated Days of Service (the other being Sept. 11). As a result, people across the country are encouraged to spend the day doing something to uplift their communities.
In the spirit of King’s mission and ideals, various community events are being held across Sonoma and Napa counties during the long weekend. Here are a few ways to get involved:
Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. acknowledges the crowd at the Lincoln Memorial for his “I Have a Dream” speech during the March on Washington, D.C. Aug. 28, 1963. (AP Photo/File)
Calistoga
MLK Day Mount St. Helena Hike: The Mendocino County Outdoor Recreation Group is hosting its annual MLK Day hike of Mount St. Helena. This 10-mile hike is rated as hard, and hiking boots and poles are recommended for the first 1.5 miles. Bring lunch and water and dress in layers. The event will be canceled if it rains. Meet at 9 a.m. Monday at 4625 Lake County Highway. The hike will end at about 3:30 p.m. For more information, go to pdne.ws/47wTtTp.
Jenner
MLK National Day of Service: Lend a hand at Jenner Headlands Preserve in the spirit of Martin Luther King Jr. Participants will plant native trees and help restore the Russian Gulch Food Plain. Bring plenty of water and snacks. Space for this free volunteer event is limited to 15 people. Meet at the Gateway to Jenner Headlands parking lot, 12001 Highway 1, beginning at 10 a.m. Jan. 15. Work ends at 1 p.m. For more information, and to reserve a spot, go to pdne.ws/48qG93Z.
Napa
Learn about California Reparations: The Napa Valley Unitarian Universalists will offer a slideshow depicting the harm of slavery, the terror amid the Jim Crow era and how discrimination has continued today. A review and discussion of the policy recommendations of the California Reparations Task Force will follow. The event runs from 1 to 3 p.m. in the sanctuary at the church, 1625 Salvador Ave. For more information, go to pdne.ws/47tpdIT.
MLK Day Bike Trail Cleanup: The Napa County Bicycle Coalition is inviting volunteers to participate in its annual Martin Luther King Jr. Day of Service, a cleanup of the Vine Trail, an important shared-use path. Volunteers will meet at 9 a.m. Monday at The Hub bike shop, 2500 Jefferson St., and clean until 11:30 a.m. Coffee and doughnuts will be available. For more information, and to sign up, go to pdne.ws/3vybbbJ.
MLK Day of Service Weed Removal: Join the city of Napa and the Napa County Weed Management Area folks to identify and pull the invasive French broom plant during a day of service. All the necessary tools will be provided, but those interested should bring work gloves, sturdy shoes, clothes suitable for gardening, and water and snacks. Meet at 9 a.m. Monday at the parking lot of Westwood Hills Park, 3107 Browns Valley Road. Work ends at noon. For more information, and to register, go to naparcd.org/events/mlk2024.
Napa Valley’s Celebration of Compassion & Action: Head to Justin-Siena High School to celebrate the legacy of Martin Luther King Jr. in a multi-day event that honors his vision of a beloved community. The Commemoration Ceremony takes place Sunday, while the day of Community Service takes place Monday. The entire celebration runs from 9 a.m. Saturday to 5 p.m. Monday at the high school, 4026 Maher St. For more information, and to sign up for volunteer opportunities, go to pdne.ws/3Hf24PN.
Petaluma
MLK Day of Service: Head to the Petaluma Bounty Community Farm for a Day of Service in honor of Martin Luther King Jr. Volunteers will work on the farm while reflecting on MLK Jr.’s legacy and service. Participants can choose to stay for the entire time, or can choose to leave early. Meet from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday at the farm, 55 Shasta Ave. For more information, go to pdne.ws/4aLEPub.
Santa Rosa
“King, The Radical!”: Join the Sonoma County Martin Luther King Jr. Birthday Celebration Committee for a celebration of King’s legacy. This year’s celebration will feature performances from the Sonoma County MLK Community Choir and MLK Praise Dancers, as well as speakers, community recognition and student awards, local artists and more. The event is from 6:30 to 8 p.m. Sunday at Montgomery High School, 1250 Hahman Drive. The event is also hosted on Zoom and Facebook Live. For more information, visit the committee’s Facebook page at pdne.ws/3SbpdrB.
MLK Day of Service: The Community Baptist Church is hosting a cleanup at Martin Luther King Jr. Park. Volunteer activities include picking up litter, spreading mulch, weeding, building community and more. Tools and light refreshment will be provided. Volunteers are encouraged to bring their friends and family. Meet from 9 a.m. to noon Monday at 1208 Hendley St. For more information on this free event, and to register, go to pdne.ws/3tBVWy1.
MLK Jr. Workday: Sonoma County Regional Parks encourages members of the community to embrace the spirit of community and service for a workday at Andy’s Unity Park. Volunteers will work to improve the park by spreading mulch, improving paths and pulling weeds. Tools and supplies are provided, along with snacks and drinks. Afterward, lunch will be served. Meet in the parking lot at 3399 Moorland Ave. beginning at 9 a.m. Monday. Work runs until 12:30 p.m. Registration for this free event is required. For more information, and to register, go to pdne.ws/48NpWG6.
The bar and main dining room at Luma Bar and Eatery in Petaluma Thursday, February 16, 2023. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
I wasn’t overwhelmed when I first visited Petaluma’s Luma restaurant in late 2022. The restaurant from Shuckery co-owner Jazmine Lalicker was brilliant in concept — primarily meatless, focused on sustainability — if not in execution.
Small slices of beef were served on small plates, a la carte, without context. Duck wing rillette was fine, but again, it wasn’t exactly clear how to consume a ramekin of duck without crackers or other accoutrements. The flatbread was a flop.
But with a substantial menu overhaul, time and maturity, Luma has become luminous. It still keeps its focus on mindful eating and locally sourced ingredients.
The menu still focuses on plant-based dishes. But it now includes a wider variety of meat, including stand-up-and-take-notice lamb meatballs in piquant harissa marinara ($16), McFarland Springs trout with bell peppers and gigante beans ($38), roasted chicken with Brussels sprouts ($32), or Greek flatbread with ground lamb, herbed goat cheese and roasted peppers ($24).
Now, meat has meaning on the menu rather than being a confusing side dish.
The Changeling cocktail with Aquavit and gin from Luma Bar and Eatery in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Best bets include fat steak fries ($10) with a trio of dipping sauces (the chimichurri is the winner).
The kitchen understands precisely how to do beans, cooking them to a toothy outside and creamy inside. The plump gigantes in the Bean Gratin appetizer ($16) is served with caramelized onions, breadcrumbs, chimichurri, and herbed goat cheese for a satisfying winter warmer.
Fancy Toasts (three for $22) are a great share plate, covered with toppers like ricotta, pears and hot honey; Brie and pistachios; or bacon jam and herbed goat cheese.
The biggest winner of the evening, however, was the Winter Polenta ($24) with roasted seasonal vegetables (in this case, several types of root vegetables) and creamy polenta with cheese and breadcrumbs.
The portions aren’t exactly small, but they’re not heaping helpings, and added to some appetizers and flatbread, more than substantial. Do not miss the Tau Fu Fa ($12) for dessert, a spiced coconut pot de crème with fresh citrus.
Cocktails are still a focus, with plenty of creative twists, and the restaurant has added a happy hour with $10 drink specials and a Stemple Creek burger for $20.
A small brunch menu is available 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sundays. Located at 50 East Washington St., Petaluma, it is also open for lunch and dinner from 11:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., happy hour daily from 3 to 5 p.m. Closed Mondays — more details at lumaeatery.com.
