Catelli’s in Geyserville Serves Up a New Kind of Burger

For the Blended Burger Project, Catelli’s Chef/Owner Domenica Catelli came up with a burger patty that is a 50-50 mix of house-ground beef and a blend of shiitake, cremini and dried porcini mushrooms, served with her Easy Kale Salad.

This year, Catelli’s is celebrating its 80th anniversary. Founded by Santi and Virginia Catelli in 1936, the restaurant is now run by third-generation, sister and brother team Dominica and Nicholas Catelli. Catelli’s offers a flavorful mix of unpretentious family favorites and modern twists on classic dishes – including Dominica’s “Blended Burger.”

For the Blended Burger Project, Catelli's Chef/Owner Domenica Catelli came up with a burger patty that is a 50-50 mix of house-ground beef and a blend of shiitake, cremini and dried porcini mushrooms, served with her Easy Kale Salad.
Catelli’s Chef/Owner Domenica Catelli’s “Blended Burger:” a 50-50 mix of house-ground beef and a blend of shiitake, cremini and dried porcini mushrooms, served with her Easy Kale Salad.

The Chef

Dominica Catelli has always been passionate about healthy, nutritious food, and she’s got the resume to prove it.

Her food gigs have ranged from opening chef at the The Ravens vegetarian restaurant in Mendocino to food stylist and personal chef for Oprah Winfrey. She even wrote a family-friendly cookbook, “Mom-a-licious,” aimed at feeding kids easy, healthy fare like lentil soup and butternut squash penne.

“Eight years ago, when I wrote the cookbook, it was hard to get ingredients like quinoa and kale,” she said. “But now they are trendy. You can get all those things at Target and Wal-Mart.”

Catelli's restaurant co-owners and siblings Nicholas and Domenica Catelli, on the back patio of their restaurant in Geyserville.
Catelli’s restaurant co-owners and siblings Nicholas and Domenica Catelli, on the back patio of their restaurant in Geyserville.

When she and her brother, Nicholas, reopened the landmark Catelli’s restaurant in Geyserville six years ago, Catelli made sure to add lots of tasty, vegetarian food to the menu. When she was asked to join the James Beard Foundation’s initiative last year to blend mushrooms into burgers, Catelli met the challenge — and went above and beyond — with real relish.

“We got the call to come up with a 25 percent mushroom burger, and I came up with a 50/50 blend,” she said. “I already had a mushroom melt on the menu that was 100 percent mushrooms.”

As part of the project, about 250 chefs across the country came up with a blended burger, then served it at their restaurants so diners could cast their votes for their favorites. Catelli called hers “The Ultimate Burger 2.0” and made it from a combination of shiitake, cremini and dried porcini mushrooms.

Staircase to the outside patio at Catelli's restaurant in Geyserville.
Staircase to the outside patio at Catelli’s restaurant in Geyserville.

This year, Catelli is among more than 400 restaurant chefs taking part in the growing competition, and she’s come up with a new and improved version. “The Kings Burger” offers the same, tasty patty as last year, gilded with arugula and Spicy House-Pickled Enoki and Maitake mushrooms.

“I love the tang of the pickled mushrooms and the pepper of the arugula,” she said. “We do a quick pickle with Sparrow Lane Golden Balsamic and Apple Cider vinegars, plus dill.”

The Blended Burger Project, a brainchild of the Culinary Institute of America’s Healthy Menus R&D Collaborative, aims to help Americans embrace burgers that are more sustainable for the planet (it takes much less water to grow mushrooms than to raise beef) but also more nutritious and delicious.

“From a health standpoint, it’s better for you,” Catelli said of her blended burger. “Even people who are not crazy about mushrooms still love it because it makes a nice, juicy burger.”

Catelli's Beef Meatball Sliders.
Catelli’s Beef Meatball Sliders.

The Burger

To make the burger, Catelli roasts the mushrooms in a 450-degree oven, stems and all, for 5 to 6 minutes, turning them once. Then she throws them in a food processor with garlic, fresh herbs and Parmesan cheese, and lets the mixture cool before massaging it into her house-ground meat.

To form the burgers, she lines a baking ramekin with a plastic bag and presses the mixture into the ramekin, then puts the patties on a sheet pan so they are ready to go. Because they are delicate, it’s best to leave them on the sheet pan when they cook, even on the grill.

“It’s so much more forgiving than a regular burger to cook,” she said. “If you want to do them (directly) on the grill, you could reduce the mixture to a third mushrooms.”

To lighten up the patty, you also could replace the beef with chicken, turkey or lean or grass-fed beef. Adventurous cooks may also want to play around with the flavors, using jalapeños and cilantro rather than parsley and thyme.

Cheese lovers could also top the burgers with a slice of sharp cheddar, cambozola or goat cheese after they are cooked. In the summer, Catelli suggests adding a simple slice of ripe tomato.

Also, it’s important to source a soft bun as the vehicle for the tender patties.

“You don’t want to bite into it and have the burger squish out,” she said. “I use the soft bun from Costeaux Bakery.”

Catelli's local heirloom caprese with buratta, arugula and baby tomatoes.
Catelli’s local heirloom caprese with buratta, arugula and baby tomatoes.

As an appetizer, Catelli suggests a simple salumi and cheese platter, along with some sliced peaches and balsamic vinegar drizzled on top. You could also serve peach slices with burrata cheese, crispy prosciutto and a balsamic reduction.

As a side dish, you can’t go wrong with Catelli’s Easy Kale Salad, made with thinly sliced kale, oranges, Parmesan, crushed croutons, nuts and a dressing of fresh lemon juice and extra-virgin olive oil.

“The day before, get everything ready for the salad,” she said. “Then put it all together about an hour before serving.”

And for a sweet finale, pick up some fresh strawberries from a roadside farmstand and slice them on top of her savory and sweet Strawberry and Thyme Shortcake, with a dollop of whipped cream.

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Dominica Catelli’s savory and sweet Strawberry and Thyme Shortcake, with a dollop of whipped cream.

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The Restaurant

This year, Catelli’s is celebrating its 80th anniversary. Domenica’s grandparents, Santi and Virginia Catelli, opened the restaurant back in 1936, in what is now the middle of three rooms. It was originally called The Rex, then became Catelli’s The Rex.

The restaurant boasts lots of historic decor and photos, plus an expansive back patio for al fresco dining. Catelli’s brother and business partner, Nicholas, and his wife, Anna, both work there; her husband, Michael Yosowitz, does the books; her dad, Richard, helps pick up supplies as needed, and her mom, Antoinette, creates the flower arrangements.

“It’s a blessing being back here,” said Catelli, who has worked all over, from Italy to Chicago and Texas. “The people I knew growing up now come here with their kids.”

Catelli's patio.
Catelli’s expansive back patio.

To learn more about the Blended Burger project and to cast your vote through July 31, go to jamesbeard.org/blendedburgerproject. The five chefs with the most votes will win a chance to prepare their burger at the James Beard House in New York City as part of the welcome reception for the foundation’s annual food conference in October.


DOMINICA CATELLI’S RECIPES


Kings Burger

Makes 4 to 6 burgers

1 pound ground, grass-fed beef

1/2 pound cremini mushrooms

1/2 pound shiitake mushrooms

1/3 cup Bragg Liquid Aminos

1/4 ounce dry, porcini mushrooms, rehydrated in hot water, water discarded

2 tablespoons fresh garlic, finely minced

2 tablespoons fresh parsley, minced

2 teaspoons fresh rosemary, minced

2 teaspoons fresh thyme, minced

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon nutritional yeast

1/4 cup grated Parmesan

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

Salt to taste

Preheat oven to 450 degrees (400 in a convection oven.) Place whole mushrooms (stems included) in a large bowl. Pour in the Bragg Liquid Aminos and 1/8 cup of extra virgin olive oil. Coat the mushrooms and lay out on two, large sheet pans lined with parchment paper. Roast in the oven for 3 to 5 minutes. Remove mushrooms and pulse in batches in a food processor with the rehydrated porcinis. Put the batches into a large mixing bowl.

Add the garlic, herbs and remaining ingredients to the mushrooms. Mix together well with ground beef and form into 8-ounce patties.

Place on a sheet pan and cook in a 400-degree oven or grill for five minutes, flipping once. Serve with your favorite condiments, such as garlic aioli, sliced tomato and lettuce.

(This recipe has been adapted for home cooks. You can substitute soy sauce if you don’t have Braggs Liquid Aminos).


Easy Kale Salad

Serves 10 to 12 as a side dish

2 bunches dinosaur kale, rinsed, dried, de-stemmed and cut into 1/4-inch strips

2-3 lemons, juiced

1/2 cup chopped walnuts (or pecans or almonds)

3/4 cup orange segments

1/2 cup grated Parmesan

3/4 cup crushed croutons (smashed in a plastic bag to bits, not crumbs)

1/4 cup good quality cold pressed virgin olive oil (preferably Dry Creek Olive Oil)

Salt and pepper

Parmesan and crushed croutons, for garnish

Put the prepped kale in a bowl. Squeeze two of the lemons into the bowl with the kale. Add the walnuts, oranges, cheese, crouton bits and olive oil. Toss. Taste for salt and pepper and add the juice of 1/2 to 1 lemon. (Kale that is denser and not as fresh will require more lemon juice.) Top with extra Parmesan and crouton bits and serve.


Strawberry and Thyme Shortcake

Makes 8 to 15 servings

1 quart strawberries, halved or quartered (4 cups)

1/4 cup local honey (or agave nectar)

3 cups all-purpose organic flour

1/4 cup sugar

2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme (optional)

1 tablespoons baking powder

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup cold, unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

1 3/4 cups heavy cream

1 egg white, lightly beaten

2 tablespoons sugar

Sweetened whipped cream

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a large bowl combine strawberries and honey. Let stand, stirring occasionally, while preparing shortcake.

For shortcake: In a food processor, combine flour, 1/4 cup sugar, thyme (if using), baking powder and salt; pulse to mix. (Or whisk together in large bowl.) Add butter to flour mixture and pulse several times. (or cut in butter with a pastry blender or two knives). While pulsing, add cream, pulsing just until dough begins to come together. (Or make a well in the center of flour mixture. Pour cream into well, mix with fork just until dough is evenly moistened.)Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface. Knead quickly. Roll dough to 1/2-inch thickness and cut with a round pastry cutter or a floured water glass. Transfer dough to a large baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Brush dough with egg white; sprinkle with the 2 tablespoons sugar. Bake 10 to 12 minutes or until light golden.Transfer shortcakes to a wooden board or platter. Cut open and spoon strawberries onto shortcake. Drizzle with juices and top with whipped cream.

20 Things We Can’t Wait to See at the Sonoma County Fair

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The Sonoma County Fair is back again, running July 22 through Aug. 7 (closed Mondays) at the fairgrounds in Santa Rosa. This year, there are many things to look forward to. First, general admission is free to all concerts with your fair ticket. Second, there are three full weekends of horse racing. Third, Saralee & Richard’s Barn will be open and full of cool interactive exhibits about agriculture. And more!

Click through the gallery below for 20 things we are looking forward to at this year’s Sonoma County Fair.

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1. Fair Food: We’re pretty sure calories don’t count as long as you eat them at the fair. New this year is Berry’s on the Go, a food booth that opens early with an assortment of breakfast goodies, as well as hamburgers, veggie burgers, pulled pork sandwiches and other All-American goodies. Other favorites include Rocket Dog, Ricardo’s Hawaiian Feast, Sliders Gastro Pub, Willie Birds and more. Be sure to check out which foods top our list with Bite Club’s Fair Food Scramble. (Photo by Kent Porter)

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2. Livestock, Fur & Feathers, Oh My!: The Livestock Area of the fair is filled with cattle, goats, sheep, rabbits, chickens, swine and more, cared for by young farmers around the county. This year’s agricultural side of the fair schedule includes Farmers Day on Sunday, July 24, as well as auctions, exhibitions and showmanship, petting zoos and more. (Photo by John Burgess)

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3. Free Things Around the Fair: Each day, the fair is filled with plenty of free things to enjoy. A cake cart will offer free cake. Enjoy free ice cream from the Clover Stornetta Booth. Learn to save a life with CPR at the First Aid Booth. Be a part of the parade every day by showing up at the Milk Barn at 4:45 p.m. Tour the fair on a horse-pulled wagon. Enjoy live music at any one of the fair’s stages. Watch a showmanship exhibit in the Livestock Area. Cheer on babies in the Diaper Derby. The opportunities are endless! (Photo by Kent Porter)

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4. Kids’ Area: This special portion of the fair is dedicated to the little guys, and parents who want a place to sit and rest for awhile. Young fairgoers can enjoy a play area, live shows, non-scary rides and more.  (Photo by Kent Porter)

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5. Destruction Derby: If the smell of gas and the sound of crunching metal excites you, this is an event you won’t want to miss. On Saturday, July 30, cars aim to be the last one standing through hard hitting action and demolition fun. Tickets are $10-$15 in addition to fair admission. (Photo by Jeremy Portje)

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6. Fair Concerts: The fair is brimming with music this year. Best of all, each performance is free with fair admission! Headliners include ARRIVAL from Sweden’s Music of Abba, Ozomatli, Cassadee Pope and Aaron Tippin. Stages around the fair will also feature other musical acts to enjoy, such as Wonderbread 5, the Unauthorized Rolling Stones and more. (Photo by Conner Jay)

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7. Carnival Rides: This year, the fair is making it even easier to enjoy the rides with reduced-price ride tickets, and pay-one-price carnival days. This year, rides will include the pirate-themed Big Splash, Wacky Worm Family Coaster, the Olympic Bobsled Coaster and more. Prices on Carnival Discount Days are $23 Tuesday through Thursday, and $35 Friday through Sunday.

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8. Wine Country Horse Racing: Horse racing occurs every Thursday through Sunday at the Sonoma County Fair, plus a bonus week Aug. 12-14. Cheer on the racers and bet on your favorite in this time-honored tradition. Seating is $3-$5, or reserve special dining spots for $150-$300. (Photo by Kent Porter)

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9. Carnival Games: If you’ve been practicing your free throws or dime tosses, here’s your chance to show off your skills. There are numerous games around the carnival that will test your skills in exchange for a variety of prizes. May the odds be ever in your favor!

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10. Hall of Flowers: This year’s flower exhibit in the Hall of Flowers will be blooming with cinematic displays. Expect to see gardens based on movies like “The Birds,” “Bottle Shock,” “The Goonies” and more. (Photo by Crista Jeremiason)

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11. Wine Country Rodeo: Cheer on professional cowboys on Saturday, July 23 as they compete in saddle bronc riding, steer wrestling, team roping, bareback riding, calf roping, barrel racing, bull riding and more. Tickets are $10-$15 in addition to fair admission.

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12. Contests and Competitions: Show off what you’re capable of at one of the fair’s many contests, some offering serious cash prizes. This year’s competitions include the Elvis Impersonation Contest, Movie Musical Contest, an Egg Hunt, Milk Moustache Contest, Animal Imitation Contest and more.  (Photo by Christopher Chung)

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13. Monster Trucks: Watch as 10,000 pound giant trucks make pancakes out of cars as they compete in numerous contests amongst each other. It all goes down Aug. 5-7 in the Chris Beck Arena. Tickets are $10-$15 in addition to fair admission. (Photo by Beth Schlanker)

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14. Butterfly Adventures:
Located in the Greenhouse, a new area just outside the Hall of Flowers, get an up close and personal look at butterflies in an interactive exhibit.

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15. Shopping at the Fair: Need a new hot tub? How about a kitchen gadget to replace every gadget you own? Or maybe you’re interested in a personalized wood sign or an old-fashioned photo of your family. The Sonoma County Fair offers plenty of ways to feed your shopping bug. The largest area is the Grace Pavilion, filled with a wide array of vendors offering many unique and interesting items. Then there are the street vendors around the fair, with plenty of fun souvenirs. Finally, head over to the Mexican Village to shop for cultural items to bring home with you.

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16. Inspiration Stations: A feature at this year’s fair is an area that inspires Do-It-Yourself activities. At the Inspiration Stations, learn about letterpress printing, rug hooking, fused glass, fly tying and more.

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17. Saralee & Richard’s Barn: Learn about life on the farm in this special area of the fair, passing on the agricultural legacy of Richard and the late Saralee Kunde. The area includes Sweet Lil’s (named after Saralee’s mother), complete with faux cow “milking,” baby chicks, tractor driving, a hay maze, beekeeping and more.

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18. Fair Exhibits: Peruse the exhibit buildings to see what our talented locals are creating around Sonoma County. From baked goods to art to quilts and more, there’s so many handcrafted creations that are sure to inspire your own creative endeavors. (Photo by Crissi Langwell)

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19. Derby Dog Dash: Have a fast pooch? Enter your furry friend into this adorable race at the horse track, taking place on Sundays July 31, Aug. 7 and Aug. 14. If your dog tends to lean toward the pokey side, you can still stand on the sidelines and cheer on the more nimble canines.

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20. Hat Day at the Races: On Saturday, July 30 starting at 1 p.m., don your best topper and head over to the horse races for their annual Hat Day. This special event includes fair admission, a live auction, trackside hors d’oeuvres and wine, a hat competition and more. Tickets are $65 per person or $600 for a table for 8.

To learn more about what to expect at this year’s fair or to purchase tickets, visit sonomacountyfair.com.

Dynamic Duo: Les Claypool & Sean Lennon Play Outside Lands

Les Claypool & Sean Lennon get psychedelic.

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Always looking to bend music lovers’ minds, west county resident Les Claypool is at it again. This time the trip is steam-punk, funk-infused, old-school psychedelia, and his cohort is Sean Lennon.

Yes, that Sean Lennon. The two met last summer as Claypool’s band, Primus, and Lennon’s The Ghost of a Saber Tooth Tiger toured together. They combined as The Claypool Lennon Delirium and recorded an album, “Monolith of Phobos,” released this spring. “The title sums up the record’s space motif vibe,” Claypool said.

They recorded at his home studio over the course of six weeks. “It was very fun,” the bassist said. “We’ve become good friends. We had an especially good time hunting for mushrooms one day — porcinis, not psilocybin. Sean was fascinated; he was like a kid.”

The Claypool Lennon Delirium – Bubbles Burst (Official Video)

The album’s songs are dreamy and hypnotic at times, infused with dark humor, taboo subjects, delicious harmonies and Claypool’s signature rhythmic bass. Indulge more senses by enjoying Claypool Cellars’ Pachyderm Pinot Noir ($48) as you listen. “It’s my favorite Sonoma Coast Pinot,” he said. “I can brag because I don’t make it. Winemakers Ross Cobb and Katy Wilson do. They boss me around when I go to the winery.”

Never idle, Claypool also produces high-end basses and a natural soda for motion sickness, SeaPop, “To tame the rough seas within,” he explained. “It tastes like a ginger snap dipped in vanilla ice cream.”

The Claypool-Lennon Delirium tours the country this summer, including a stop at Outside Lands in San Francisco on Aug. 5.

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Fabricating Fantasy: Local Artist Wields Powerful Burning Man Sculptures

As the sun drops toward the dusty horizon on a sweltering August evening in Nevada’s Black Rock Desert, it catches the eye of the coyote.

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The modern bacchanal of Burning Man is in full swing, and many of its revelers have congregated around a 26-foot-high steel coyote crafted by Glen Ellen artist Bryan Tedrick. The moment when the sun shines directly through the space that defines the coyote’s eye has the feeling of an eclipse: it lasts for just a few moments and seems to cast an otherworldly spell over those who observe it.

The Burners — some climbing on the coyote, one in its upraised jaws — howl. A photographer looking west takes a photo — featured prominently in the pictorial book “Burning Man: Art on Fire” — that becomes one of the defining images of the 2013 festival.

The coyote, forged from seven tons of steel, is just one of Tedrick’s works to grace Burning Man’s desert plateau in northwest Nevada. The weeklong festival, a celebration of alternative art and culture, is the ideal exhibition space for Tedrick’s art, which is far too large to fit in most galleries.

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Bryan Tedrick with the head of a sculpture for this year’s Burning Man: a gargantuan, diabolical-looking wild boar he calls “Lord Snort.”

Tedrick, 60, first attended Burning Man in 2005. His initial reaction: “Whoa, there really is a lot going on,” but he wasn’t impressed with much of the art.

“It’s essentially an unjuried show, so anybody can bring anything out there,” he said. “But there were a few pieces that were monumental in scale and really well-done, so I thought, ‘Oh, there are some people out here who are doing good work, and they’re the ones getting grants.’” Submitting a drawing of a pair of wings with a 6-foot-diameter ring in the center,

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Tedrick applied for a 2008 Burning Man grant. He was the last artist funded that year, he said, receiving $10,000. The sculpture, previously installed next to The Kenwood Restaurant, is now located at the Wine Country Garden Design Center, just south of the Sonoma plaza on Highway 12.

According to Tedrick, grants vary, but $25,000 and under is typical, with the expectation that artists will do additional funding on their own. The 2016 budget for funding art is approximately $1.2 million. If a work is sold, Burning Man collects 10 percent of the sale price, not to exceed the original grant amount.

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Bryan Tedrick’s “Spread Eagle” sculpture.

Tedrick said when he delivered “Spread Eagle” to the playa, festival administrators “looked at me sideways and said, ‘You need to apply every year because we love your work.’” He enjoys fabricating immense works that Burning Man attendees can climb, constructing them in ways that encourage people to become part of the art. With “Spread Eagle,” the ring was just the right size for an adult to stand in, arms outstretched like Leonardo da Vinci’s “Vitruvian Man.”

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For this year’s desert gathering, Aug. 28 to Sept. 5, Tedrick fashioned a gargantuan, diabolical-looking wild boar he calls “Lord Snort.” It’s approximately 20 feet tall and 30 feet wide.

A professor once encouraged him to make larger-than- life art, which inspires a sense of physical danger. “If a piece is shorter than me, it doesn’t have enough power to command my attention,” said the 6-foot-4 Tedrick. “But if it’s bigger than me, then I have to pay attention to it.”

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Photos of completed sculptures, their plans, and inspirations are stuck on a wall of Bryan Tedrick’s workshop, near Glen Ellen.

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Steel is his main medium. “It’s easy to work with, there’s lots of it around, it’s relatively cheap, very durable, and it lends itself to a spontaneous method of fabrication,” Tedrick explained. He uses a plasma cutter and then welds the pieces together.

He hopes the boar ends up with the coyote’s owner, Ken Wilson of Wilson Artisan Wineries. Wilson bought the coyote after the 2013 Burning Man and installed it at Wilson Winery, on Dry Creek Road in Healdsburg.

“He wants the boar to look super-aggressive and ready to leap onto Highway 12 and wreak havoc,” Tedrick said of “Lord Snout.” If Wilson follows through with the purchase, the boar will be installed at his St. Anne’s Crossing Winery in Kenwood.

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In his late teens, Tedrick worked as a rigger at Kaiser Shipyards in Richmond, but said he always wanted to make art. He attended the San Francisco Art Institute in the early 1980s, where he learned to weld and immersed himself in sculpture. With money saved while working at the shipyard, he purchased land on the coast.

“I had a little cabin in Gualala, so I really didn’t have any responsibilities,” Tedrick recalled. “I had a place to live, so I could afford to live the life of an artist.”

His wife, Terry Roberts, wanted to raise their kids in a less remote area, so they got a place in Glen Ellen, where they remain today. His rented studio is not far from his home, where he imagines and assembles his whimsical creations.

“It does help to have a place where I can be undistracted, so I can focus,” he said. “And it really helps to have a routine.” Tedrick’s credo: Whether you feel inspired or not, show up.

Artwork nearBryan Tedrick's front gate made of steel, bronze, rocks and wood. (Photo by Christopher Chung)
Horse sculpture near Bryan Tedrick’s front gate made of steel, bronze, rocks and wood.

Near the front gate is a horse he made years ago of steel, bronze, rocks and wood. An old facing from a vacuum cleaner is the horse’s rear end, and dark stones form the eyes. The lifelike animal appears to be lunging forward with every muscle.

“The main thing is to avoid straight lines,” Tedrick said. “Straight lines are static and kill the piece. They look really stiff. So everything should have just a slight curve to it. It’s just a matter of being sensitive enough … to adjust those lines until it feels real. Every line has an emotion. There are sad lines and uplifting lines. If you slow way down, you can feel those lines.”

Although he hires a crew to help install his mammoth works at Burning Man, the easygoing Tedrick usually works alone.

“I like the privacy, being able to focus and concentrate,” he said. “I’m definitely into the low-stress life. In Glen Ellen, I feel like I’m in heaven.

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Johnny Depp Coming to Rohnert Park

Hollywood Vampires – Joe Perry, Johnny Depp, Alice Cooper – are set to rock the Green Music Center in Rohnert Park Friday July 22. 

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For Joe Perry, longtime lead guitarist with Aerosmith, everything just seemed to fall together and, before long, he was touring as a member of the new supergroup Hollywood Vampires, with vintage shock rocker Al Cooper and film star Johnny Depp.

“I was staying at Johnny’s house in LA, writing my book and working on my solo record,” Perry said by phone en route from Chicago to Milwaukee as part of the current Hollywood Vampires tour that will bring them to the Green Music Center next week.

(Perry was unable to finish a Hollywood Vampires performance last Sunday after becoming ill at the Ford Amphitheater in Brooklyn’s Coney Island, but reportedly was recovering quickly and expected to rejoin the tour.)

Perry has long been a friend and sometimes house guest of both of his new bandmates, Cooper for 30 years and Depp for the past six.

“It’s a whole different scene in LA from Boston,” said Perry, referring to his hometown. “There are so many great musicians around all the time, and Johnny asked me to play lead guitar on a track.”

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Johnny Depp performs rock-legend supergroup Hollywood Vampires. (Photo courtesy of vanityfair.com)

Switching Roles

The world knows Depp as an screen actor, but he also is a serious guitarist and guitar collector and a masterful player, Perry said.

“Johnny calls acting his day job,” Perry said. “In the years that I’ve been hanging around with him, I’ve never met an actor at his house, but a few musicians show up. He’s a musician through and through.”

During a recording session for the first Hollywood Vampires album, which came out last year, one of the musicians who showed up at Depp’s home studio was Paul McCartney, who recorded “Come and Get It” with the group. Perry, a rather famous man himself, was nonetheless thrilled to meet a boyhood hero.

“Are you kidding? It was stunning. We cut the track the way Sir Paul cuts tracks, with everybody in one room playing together, and we were looking at each other like, ‘Holy —-!’ It was one of the high points of my career,” said Perry, 65.

(Photo courtesy of people.com)
(Photo courtesy of people.com)

Started by Cooper

The Hollywood Vampires band was originally Cooper’s brainchild, a nostalgic nod to West Coast rock and roll history.

“Hollywood Vampire was the name of the drinking club Alice belonged to back in the ’70s, at the Rainbow Bar and Grill in LA,” Perry said.

One of the most infamous members of that drinking circle was Keith Moon, the original drummer for The Who, who liked to show up costumed as the Queen of England or Adolph Hitler. John Lennon sometimes stopped by the Rainbow Room when he was in town. Regulars included Ringo Starr, Harry Nilsson and Micky Dolenz of the Monkees.

Cooper has adapted the Hollywood Vampires concept to fit his own eerie stage persona, making the show a tribute to dead musicians and their hits.

The album even features the late English horror film actor Christopher Lee reading a passage from “Dracula,” a favor Lee was glad to grant his friend Depp. The two met while making “The Legend of Sleepy Hollow.”

In 2014, Perry’s book came out, “Rocks: My Life in and out of Aerosmith,” co-written with David Ritz, and the guitarist decided to stretch himself professionally by recording the audio book version himself.

“It was the biggest pain. My jaw got sore. But that’s me talkin’ on the audio book, Boston accent and all,” Perry said.His newest solo album is still in the works. “I’m just gonna keep writing music. I’ll write, then take a vacation and then start again,” he said. Perry said he can’t predict how long the Hollywood Vampires will stick together, but he knows they’ll try, because they’ve enjoyed their stint as a band so much.

“Every night’s a party,” he said. “I’d like to record with the Hollywood Vampires some more. It’s just a matter of when we can all get together. Alice tours a lot. Johnny will go off to make a movie somewhere and come back.”

Final tour?

And then there’s Perry regular job with Aerosmith. That group’s lead singer Steven Tyler has talked about a final tour in 2017, but while Perry’s all for a tour, he’s not so sure it will be the band’s farewell.

“It’s easy to say it’s a final tour, but it’s hard to imagine as a last gig,” Perry said. “Musicians just keep playing. There have been so many. B.B. King and Etta James just kept playing. Buddy Guy just keeps playing.”

Of the Green Music Center show set for July 22, he said, “It’s gonna be a great rock and roll show. I’m looking forward to this gig myself. You might not get a chance to see a lineup like this again, so get it while you can.”

Things to Do in Sonoma County this Weekend

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These events will give you plenty of reasons to leave your house this weekend. Coming up is opening weekend of the Sonoma County Fair, the star power of Johnny Depp and friends with Hollywood Vampires, free pet adoptions at Petaluma Animal Services and more! 


FRIDAY, July 22

Sonoma County Fair: This year’s fair opens on Friday under the theme of “Lights, Camera, Fair!” Check out the Sonoma Cinema Hall of Flowers, the horse races, live music, carnival rides, games and more. Closed Mondays. Admission is $6-$12. Kids 6 and under are free. Find out all the details at sonomacountyfair.com.

Extra: 20 things we love about the Sonoma County Fair

Hollywood Vampires: Kick back at the Green Music Center this Friday for guaranteed entertainment and rock ’n’ roll classics with Johnny Depp, Alice Cooper and Joe Perry. We’re sure they’ll put on an amazing show. But it’s what happens between the music we’ll be leaning in for. The show starts at 7:30 p.m., and tickets start at $40. More information at gmc.sonoma.edu.

Grace Potter: The powerhouse singer is bringing her alternative music to SOMO Village in Rohnert Park this Friday. The lead singer of Grace Potter and the Nocturnals, Grace Potter will share songs from her first solo album, “Midnight.” Doors open at 7 p.m., and the show starts at 8 p.m. Tickets are $42.50. Find out more at somoconcerts.com.


SATURDAY, July 23

Smokey Robinson: This Saturday, go “Cruisin’” when Smokey Robinson performs his iconic R&B music in Healdsburg as part of the Rodney Strong Summer Concert Series. Gates open at 4 p.m. and the concert starts at 5 p.m. Tickets start at $89. Find out all the details at rodneystrongconcertseries.com.

Farmster Festival: This Saturday, enjoy a fun event that supports your local neighborhood. Farmster is holding their first annual festival at SOMO Village, complete with a film trailer, BBQ chicken dinner, live music and more. The event is 4-9 p.m., and tickets are $25. Find out all the details at farmsterhub.org.

Valley of the Moon Music Festival: This year’s annual festival at the Hanna Boys Center will feature vocalists Nikki Einfeld and Kyle Stegall performing works from Mozart, Rossini and more. Come early to enjoy a pre-concert picnic on the patio. Tickets are $20-$40. All details are at valleyofthemoonmusicfestival.org.

Clear the Shelter Adoption Drive: Swing by Petaluma Animal Shelter this Saturday for no-cost adoptions to those who can offer a loving and responsible home. The event is from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., and is part of the Clear the Shelters initiative that seeks to find new homes for homeless pets. Lunch will be provided by Rooster Run Golf Center, and there will be face painting, Subzero ice cream, Acre coffee and more. 840 Hopper St., Petaluma. More information at www.petalumaanimalshelter.org.


SUNDAY, July 24

A Mid Summer Trip: Enjoy an evening of Bob Dylan and Neil Young songs performed acoustic and electric by Shakey Zimmerman with the Lauren Murphy Band. Tickets to the all-ages show is $18, and the show starts at 8 p.m. at the Sweetwater Music Hall in Mill Valley. Find out more at sweetwatermusichall.com.

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More Events this Weekend

Friday, July 22

Chuck Prophet & The Mission Express: Folk rock band, ‘Friday Night Live’ outdoor concert series, 7 tonight, Cloverdale Plaza. Free. 707-894-4410, cloverdaleartsalliance.org.

George Lopez: ‘#Thats True Comedy Tour,’ 8 tonight, Luther Burbank Center, Santa Rosa. $55-$250. 707-546-3600, lutherburbankcenter.org.

The BluesBurners: Funk, rock, electric blues and rhythm and blues band, ‘Funky Fridays’ outdoor concert series, 7 tonight, Hood Mansion, Santa Rosa. $10. 707-833-6288, funkyfridays.info.


Saturday, July 23

‘Forty Years of Cheers!’: Wine Road festival with live music, food, wine, kids’ activities, art and crafts, 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturday, outside Healdsburg City Hall. Free. wineroad.com.

Smokey Robinson: Acclaimed Motown singer-songwriter in concert, 5 p.m. Saturday, Rodney Strong Vineyards, Healdsburg. $80-$129. 707-431-1533, rodneystrong.com.

‘Blues at the Green’: Taj Mahal, Hot Tuna and Marcia Ball, 7:30 p.m. Saturday, Weill Hall and Lawn, Green Music Center, Rohnert Park. $25-$65. 866-955-6040, gmc.sonoma.edu.

‘White Hot Summer Night’: Jazz greats Euge Groove and Peter White, 8 p.m. Saturday, House of Rock, Santa Rosa. $60-$75. 707-791-3482, rockstaruniversity.com.

Dej Loaf: Hip hop lyricist and rapper, 8 p.m. Saturday, Phoenix Theater, Petaluma. $39, $139 VIP. 707-762-3565, thephoenixtheater.com.

PRCA Rodeo: Competition for professional cowboys, 7 p.m. Saturday, Sonoma County Fairgrounds, Santa Rosa. $10-$15, plus $6-$12 Sonoma County Fair admission. 707-545-4200, sonomacountyfair.com.


Sunday, July 24 

Hot Rods: Classic oldies tribute band, 1-4 p.m. Sunday, Village Court, Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa. Free. 707-545-3844, mvshops.com.

Reckless Kelly: Austin-based alternative country and rock ’n’ roll band, 8:30 p.m. Sunday, Mystic Theatre, Petaluma. $22. 707-765-2121, mystictheatre.com.

Mindi Abair & The Boneshakers: Pop vocalist and saxophonist, 7:30 p.m. Sunday, House of Rock, Santa Rosa. $50-$65. 707-791-3482, rockstaruniversity.com.

Marcia Ball: Texas boogie-woogie, ‘Sundays in the Park’ concert series, 6-8 p.m. Sunday, Todd Grove Park, Ukiah. Free. 707-463-6231, cityofukiah.com.

Drifting South: Classic country and western swing, ‘Live at Juilliard’ summer concert series, 5-7 p.m. Sunday, Juilliard Park, Santa Rosa. Free. 707-543-4512, srcity.org/liveatjuilliard.

‘Town & Country Cook-off’: Course-by-course face-off among top Napa Valley and Oakland chefs, 1 p.m. Sunday, Culinary Institute of America at Greystone, St. Helena. $99. 707-346-5052, festivalnapavalley.org.


 

 

Trail of the Week: Mount Saint Helena

Mount Saint Helena is the tallest peak in Sonoma County at 4,339 feet. It is located in Robert Louis Stevenson State Park north of Calistoga, at the intersection of Sonoma, Napa and Lake counties.

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A 5.3-mile trail winds through the undeveloped park to the volcanic mountain’s North Peak. The route utilizes a long and sinuous fire road on a south-facing slope, exposed to sun and wind.

The popular hiking and biking route steadily climbs but is never steep. The long distance and substantial elevation gain, however, make it a strenuous hike.

Throughout the hike, the views are spectacular. From the summit are 360-degree vistas that extend across Napa Valley to Mount Tamalpais, to San Francisco and the twin peaks of Mount Diablo in the south, Mount Lassen and Snow Mountain in the north, the Vaca Mountains in the east and the coastal ranges and the ocean in the west.

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To the Trailhead

4625 Lake County Hwy., Calistoga

Robert Louis Stevenson State Park is located in Napa Valley, northeast of Calistoga on Highway 29. Three main routes access Napa Valley from Sonoma County.

From the north, access is via Highway 128 out of Geyserville and Healdsburg. From Santa Rosa, access is via Calistoga Road off of Highway 12 (15 miles). From the south, access is via Highway 12, south of the town of Sonoma.

From Highway 29 and Lincoln Avenue in Calistoga, drive 8.5 miles northeast on Lincoln Avenue (Highway 29), through town and up the winding mountain road. Park in the parking area on the left at the road’s summit.

Additional parking is in a larger parking area directly across the road.

Sunset and Moonrise over Mount St. Helena. (Photo by Chad Surmick)
Sunset and Moonrise over Mount St. Helena. (Photo by Chad Surmick)

The Hike

Walk up the steps to a flat, grassy picnic area and posted trailhead. Head up the forested hillside on the rock-embedded path. Six switchbacks zigzag up the forested mountain. In a shady flat at 0.7 miles is the Stevenson Memorial, a stone monument by a mossy rock formation. Climb two more switchbacks to the Mount Saint Helena Trail, a T-junction with a service road at 0.85 miles. The right fork loops down the hillside back to Highway 29 (Hike 50).

Go to the left on the Mount Saint Helena Trail. The trail/fire road climbs 1,600 feet over the next 4.5 miles. As the trail climbs up the hillside, the views open to Napa Valley and the surrounding mountains. Pass above Silverado Mine on the left, which is no longer visible.

mapAt 1.6 miles, on a horseshoe right bend, is weather-chiseled Bubble Rock, a pock-marked igneous formation that is popular with rock climbers.

Continue up the well-graded road cut into the chaparral-covered slope, with views across Napa County and Sonoma County. The exposed terrain is dotted with manzanita, small oaks, knobcone pines, bay laurel and greasewood.

Make a sweeping left bend at 2.25 miles, passing fractured rock columns. Cross under power lines and continue a half mile to a road junction on a saddle at 3.6 miles. The left branch leads 0.5 miles to 4,003-foot South Peak, the lower summit.

Continue north (straight ahead) between North and South Peaks, with a view of Lake Berryessa on the right. Continue to a ridge at 4.5 miles. Veer left, entering Sonoma County, and head west toward the peak. Pass through groves of sugar pines and Douglas firs, then leave the forest for the final ascent.

At the summit, pass a group of communication structures to the rocky north face above Rattlesnake and Bradford canyons. After resting and savoring the views, return along the same route.


Sonoma Welcomes Two New Craft Spirit Tasting Rooms

Amy and Fred Groth plan to offer their limoncello as well as an assortment of Sonoma-made brandies at the Prohibition Spirits tasting room at Cornerstone Sonoma.

Wine is fine, but liquor may be a quicker way to profits – at least that’s what a growing number of local spirits companies are hoping. Two Sonoma Valley companies, operating at either end of the craft-spirits market, are both opening tasting rooms in Sonoma Valley this summer.

Amy and Fred Groth plan to offer their limoncello as well as an assortment of Sonoma-made brandies at the Prohibition Spirits tasting room at Cornerstone Sonoma.
Amy and Fred Groth plan to offer their limoncello as well as an assortment of Sonoma-made brandies at the Prohibition Spirits tasting room at Cornerstone Sonoma.

Owners of Sonoma’s first modern-day operating distillery, Fred and Amy Groth have officially opened the doors on their new Prohibition Spirits tasting room at Cornerstone Sonoma. Their permit enables them to pour more than a dozen of their locally inspired craft spirits, with more to come in the months ahead.

The full line from Prohibition spirits as of today. But tomorrow there will likely be more.
The full line from Prohibition spirits as of today. But tomorrow there will likely be more.

Just two miles east on Burndale Road, Hanson Organic Vodka of Sonoma has opened a tasting room in the Carneros Brewing complex.

Chris Hanson opens the door to on the vodka "bubble top" at the Hanson Distillery in Sonoma.
Chris Hanson opens the door to on the vodka “bubble top” at the Hanson Distillery in Sonoma.

Also making waves in the spirits category are a handful of Sonoma companies which have or plan to introduce new spirits brands this year, including August Sebastiani’s 3 Badge Mixology and Donny Sebastiani’s Don & Sons. A handful of local importers, including Sal Chavez’s Licores Latinos portfolio of Mexican spirits, have also thrown their hats in the liquor ring.

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The product line now available through Sonoma’s 3 Badge Spirits.

The craft spirits market echoes the boom in craft beers back in the 1980s, says Cris Steller, executive director of the California Artisanal Distillers Guild. His phone has been ringing off the hook with calls from Northern California companies interested in launching spirits brands.

There are three components to launching a spirits brand in the United States: making it, distributing it and selling it directly to consumers. The catch, according to rules established by the Department of Alcohol Beverage Control (ABC), is that no company can do all three, only two of the three. To complicate matters further, there are different rules for spirits made from grain versus those made from fruit.

Two tequilas being offered by Donny Sebastiani.
Two tequilas being offered by Donny Sebastiani.

The advent of tasting rooms is thanks in part to a new state law that allows small distilleries to apply to legally provide tastings of distilled spirits to consumers.

“The laws are confusing and constantly changing,” said Groth, “but basically everyone seems to have found a way to do what they want to do.”

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Hanson’s award-winning lineup of spirits in the new tasting room in Sonoma, June 9, 2016. (Photo by Julie Vader)

The biggest “Sonoma” spirits brand today is certainly Hanson Organic Vodka. The company has enjoyed meteoric growth since its first splashy end-cap displays showed up at area supermarkets in 2013.

The company makes its organic vodka from locally sourced Sonoma grapes with flavor infusions like cucumber, espresso and ginger. While its sales may soon exceed the “craft” category limit of 52,000 cases, as of right now, each Hanson bottle is distilled and bottled on site and hand-stamped, numbered and signed by a family member.

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Scott Hanson works alongside his four grown children. They branched out this spring to offer distillery tours and the new public tasting room. “We’re excited to get the community involved with our brand,” said Hanson.

With his brand an early success in the craft market, Hanson has already been approached to sell the company. But he said, “We loved the idea of a family business so that we could work alongside our grown kids.”

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Fred and Amy Groth in the Prohibition Spirits tasting room at Cornerstone Sonoma Monday, June 13, 2016. The elk on the wall is known as “Heinrich.” (Photo by Julie Vader)

Fred and Amy Groth still have little kids, and their company is the definition of a “small batch” producer. Since launching their Limoncello line in 2009, their distillery on Eighth Street East has produced and hand-bottled small quantities of a dazzling array of Sonoma-themed brands – more than two dozen at latest count, including a rum, rye whiskey, a clear corn whiskey, bourbon, brandy and vodka, all made with local ingredients. A new line of ready-to-go bottled cocktails will be available this month.

Visitors to the Groth’s new tasting salon two miles from town at Cornerstone Sonoma can try the company’s extensive line of more than a dozen brandies as well as their soon-to-be-introduced lines of gin.“We’re working hard but we’re having so much fun” said Amy. “Everything we do is very hands-on.” The pair hired their first real employee this spring, Sonoma Valley High School graduate Juliette Witous.

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Having revived the old firehouse near the Plaza on Patten Street, Sonoma’s 3 Badge Mixology is not a distillery – but owner August Sebastiani has been in the spirits distribution business since 2012 and his company has launched a broad array of brands including Masterson’s Whiskey, Uncle Val’s Botanical Gin, Kirk and Sweeney’s Dominican Rum and Bib & Tucker Small Batch Bourbon.

This winter, August also launched Pasote, a line of Mexican tequilas made from pure blue agave. “The spirits market is just exploding,” he said. “We’re working on striking a balance between where the market is going and where opportunities exist on the supply side.”

August’s younger brother, Donny Sebastiani, is a newer entrant into the spirits business. His company, Don & Sons, is also bringing to market a limited production blue agave tequila line which he’ll launch this summer in select markets nationally.

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Local businessman – and current president of the Sonoma Valley Unified School District Board – Sal Chavez has also dipped his toe into the wholesale spirits distribution business with his company, Puente- Internacional, which sources and markets food, wine and spirits. His inaugural product launch is the Licores Latinos Portfolio of Mexican spirits.

Chavez aims to provide “Latin-sourced spirits for those who embrace the Latino culture,” he said. He currently offers three craft spirits from Mexico – a mescal, a tequila and a rum.

What lies ahead? Local bars are getting in on the action, as evidenced by the craft cocktail menu at the Starling on the former site of Blue Moon Saloon, and Murphy’s Irish Pub’s new craft-cocktail bar opening soon. Much of the trend is fueled by the tastes of trendy millennials who drink a wider variety of spirits than any previous generation, according to Beverage Daily.

Fred Groth has been attending the American Distillers Institute annual meeting since 2000.

“The first year I went, there were 45 people there,” said Fred. “This year, there were 2,000.”

The Craft and Culture of Surfboards on Display in Sonoma

surfboard

To the casual observer, the surfboard may seem like a simple object. You put it in the water, climb on and ride the waves. Shouting “Cowabunga!” is rather out of date, and therefore optional.

Of course, surfing isn’t that easy, and neither is making a great surfboard. Richard Kenvin, curator of the “Surf Craft” exhibit at the Sonoma Valley Museum of Art, maintains that creating surfboards is an art in itself.

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The downtown Sonoma exhibit features more than 60 colorful surfboards, from handmade Hawaiian boards from the early 19th century to the sophisticated hydrodynamic designs of today. But these objects are not just pretty artifacts.

“This is not art for art’s sake,” Kenvin said. “Surfboards are beautiful, but they are put to use. Then when you pull them out of that context and put them in an exhibit, they take on another life as well. These stand up as well-designed objects.”

"Weird Board", a single fin stinger shaped by Hans Newman, 1972. Made of Polyurethane foam, fiberglass, and resin. Hand painted. 5’2” x 19.25: x 2.75”. Collection of Hans Newman.
“Weird Board”, a single fin stinger shaped by Hans Newman, 1972. Made of Polyurethane foam, fiberglass, and resin. Hand painted. 5’2” x 19.25: x 2.75”. Collection of Hans Newman.

Kenvin bears the unique, self-invented title of Surf Historian. He originally put together the exhibit two years ago for the Mingei International Museum in San Diego and wrote the book “Surf Craft” to accompany it.

“There’s no formal curriculum for that, is there?” Kenvin conceded. “But I’ve been surfing all my life, and I dabble in making my own boards.”

6’9” x 21.25” x 2.50”. A longfish collaboration between Skip Frye(board), Stanley Pleskunas(fins), and Larry Gephardt(side-bites), 2004. Made of polyurethane foam, fiberglass, pvc foam, and pvc. Collection of Skip Frye.
A longfish collaboration between Skip Frye (board), Stanley Pleskunas (fins), and Larry Gephardt (side-bites), 2004. Made of polyurethane foam, fiberglass, pvc foam, and pvc. Collection of Skip Frye.

Now 55, Kenvin has lived in the San Diego area since boyhood, writes for The Surfer’s Journal and has made an extensive study of surfing’s most influential board designers.

“I’ve been researching these boards, and in particular a surfer named Bob Simmons, who was active in the late ’40s and early ’50s, and died in a surfing accident in 1954 at Windandsea here in San Diego, which is where I surf,” Kenvin said.

“Simmons is prominently featured in the exhibit and the book because his work was ahead of its time, but maybe too ahead of its time, so it never really caught on then. About 10 or 12 years ago, I started researching that and finding his old boards. He was one of the first surfboard makers to use Fiberglas and resin.”

5’ x 17.25” x 2.5”. Surf bathing board from the early 1900's made of balsa, and painted canvas. Unknown craftsman. Collection of Richard Kenvin.
Surf bathing board from the early 1900’s made of balsa, and painted canvas. Unknown craftsman. Collection of Richard Kenvin.

Schooled in engineering and math at Caltech, Simmons was disabled in a cycling accident when he was hit by a car.

“Simmons almost lost his left arm, and there was an old paddleboard surfer in the bed next to him at the hospital, who told him to try surfing to rehabilitate that arm,” Kenvin said.

“What was available then were these solid planks that weighed a hundred pounds, and right away Simmons started applying his knowledge to making a better vehicle for riding waves. He basically laid the foundation of what is now the modern surfboard.”

Classified as disabled and exempt from active military service during World War II, Simmons worked as a machinist on aircraft manufactured in the Los Angeles area, “so he had access to all these new materials that were coming out of the aerospace industry,” Kenvin said.

“So now surfboard design is in a really big renaissance as far as surfboard performance and what surfers are doing. It’s just exploding in a way that it never has before. There are more craftsmen making their own boards, while at the same time there’s more and more sophisticated mass production, with much better product.”

Simmons had a lot to do with that, Kenvin said, and people are going back to paying more attention to what he was doing.

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“Weird Board”, a single fin stinger shaped by Hans Newman, 1972. Made of Polyurethane foam, fiberglass, and resin. Hand painted. Collection of Hans Newman.

Could Cloverdale Be the Next Healdsburg?

Kristine Bodily-Gallagher, chef and owner of Savvy on First, has brightened Cloverdale’s culinary scene with her farm-fresh dishes served in a casual, welcoming atmosphere. (Photo / Christopher Chung)

Thirty years ago, they whispered this about Healdsburg: “It’s the next St. Helena.” Could Cloverdale be the next Healdsburg? Some Cloverdalians think so. 

Kristine Bodily-Gallagher, chef and owner of Savvy on First, has brightened Cloverdale’s culinary scene with her farm-fresh dishes served in a casual, welcoming atmosphere. (Photo by Christopher Chung)
Kristine Bodily-Gallagher, chef and owner of Savvy on First, has brightened Cloverdale’s culinary scene with her farm-fresh dishes served in a casual, welcoming atmosphere. (Photo by Christopher Chung)

Despite its could-be-anywhere name, location in the northernmost edge of Sonoma County and reputation for lacking amenities and Wine Country culture, Cloverdale is coming on. New restaurants and boutiques. A coffeehouse that’s a community gathering place. A burgeoning arts scene. Fresh ownership of tired businesses. Summer concerts on the plaza that draw 2,000 adults and kids. City slickers, drawn by the rustic beauty and calm, are relocating to Cloverdale — some bringing high-end businesses with them.

More evidence: The city, chosen by Budget Travel magazine in 2010 as one of “America’s Coolest Small Towns,” co-hosted, with Geyserville, the inaugural Alexander Valley Film Festival last October. On the same weekend, the Red Bull Aces skydiving competition was held at Cloverdale Muncipal Airport, with 40 competitors jumping out of helicopters and “flying” through an aerial course in winged suits. Motels, bed-and-breakfasts, restaurants, bars and shops were packed.

Savvy on First has brightened Cloverdale’s culinary scene with farm-fresh dishes served in a casual, welcoming atmosphere. (Photo / Christopher Chung)
Savvy on First has brightened Cloverdale’s culinary scene with farm-fresh dishes served in a casual, welcoming atmosphere. (Photo by  Christopher Chung)

Kristine Bodily-Gallagher is but one example of how the town is changing. The Healdsburg resident ran her catering business, Savvy, in a rented kitchen at St. John’s Catholic Church in the ’Burg. She outgrew the space and ended up on First Street in Cloverdale, in December 2013. Catering morphed into a restaurant, Savvy on First. Of the first four Cloverdalians asked on the street where to eat, all said Savvy.

“Everyone in Cloverdale seemed happy for me to be there,” Bodily-Gallagher said, “and it snowballed from there. I listened to what the locals wanted, and the menu is based on that.”

“That” includes all-day breakfasts, brunch, sophisticated yet comforting salads and sandwiches for lunch, and dinners whose menus vary by what’s fresh and seasonal: steak frites, roast chicken and a glorious burger are among the offerings, and as good as anything served in Healdsburg. Residents are eagerly waiting for The Trading Post Market & Bakery to open this spring. Matt Semmelhack, owner of the AQ and Bon Marché restaurants in San Francisco, and his Smuin Ballet-dancing wife, Robin Cornwell, already sell artisan breads baked on-site, while renovations are completed on the restaurant and beer-and-wine bar.

An Aztec hot chocolate at Plank Coffee in Cloverdale, California on Monday, May 20, 2013. (BETH SCHLANKER/ The Press Democrat) Cloverdale Beth Schlanker
An Aztec hot chocolate at Plank Coffee in Cloverdale. (Photo by Beth Schlanker)

Marne Dupere left her Los Angeles furniture and design store, Orange, and eventually found her way to Healdsburg. She and Mike Morisette opened 14feet, selling vintage furniture and eclectic home decor. But they wanted to buy a home, and the price was right in Cloverdale. Once there and craving great java, they opened Plank Coffee in 2012. It became an instant magnet for locals to hang out. Eventually they relocated 14feet next door to Plank.

Nearly 9,000 folks live in Cloverdale, a mix of old-timers and newcomers lured by attractive real estate prices when compared with Healdsburg, Sonoma and Sebastopol. The slower, agrarian pace of life is a draw. The city got a boost in 1997, when Del Webb Corp.’s Clover Springs housing development made Cloverdale a haven for seniors, and word began to spread that the town had its charms.

Mary O’Gorman left San Francisco for Cloverdale in 1999, building a successful real estate business. She tipped off her son and daughter-in-law, Christopher and Alexandra O’Gorman, to the availability of an 1870 Victorian home on north Cloverdale Boulevard. They bought it in 2000 and moved from Berkeley.

 A work called “Purple Shades of Summer” by artist Tyson Barbera is part of the Sculpture Trail in Cloverdale. (Photo / Christopher Chung)
A work called “Purple Shades of Summer” by artist Tyson Barbera is part of the Sculpture Trail in Cloverdale. (Photo by Christopher Chung)

“We weren’t looking for it, but Cloverdale was such a small town and we knew we wanted that,” Alexandra said. “We didn’t have kids then, but we thought it would be a great place to raise them.”

Liam and Sophia O’Gorman are now 12 and 10, and their parents have communications jobs in the wine industry. They are deeply involved in Cloverdale’s arts community and praise Mark Tharrington, executive director of the Cloverdale Arts Alliance and longtime member of its board, for getting folks excited about their city.

In 2013, the alliance joined Geyserville’s Sculpture Trail, with rotating works installed in the towns and along the 101 corridor between them. The Cloverdale Performing Arts Center, opened in 2007, offers theatrical, dance, music and other arts opportunities. The alliance’s headquarters includes an art gallery and event space, where jazz and Americana music concerts are held.

New Clover Theater owners Kathryn and Ryan Hecht, former New York actors, spiffed up the place and show first-run, independent and children’s films. The gourmet ice cream counter in the lobby is open even when the theater is not. The Hechts founded the Alexander Valley Film Festival in 2015; Bodily-Gallagher made caramel popcorn for screenings.

Yet it’s Friday Night Live, the O’Gormans said, that has provided the most energy to Cloverdale. Tharrington books a wide range of live music acts, including local harmonica virtuoso Charlie Musselwhite, for the free concerts, held every Friday evening on the plaza in summer and joined by a farmers market and food trucks. Seemingly, the whole town shows up.

“Friday Night Live,” Alexandra O’Gorman said, “has given everyone a reason to stay home in the summer.”

Roberto Perdomo rolls out dough to make fruit-filled empanadas at his Cloverdale bakery, Panaderia El Palomo, which he and his wife, Adriana Lara, opened in 2005. (Photo / Alvin Jornada)
Roberto Perdomo rolls out dough to make fruit-filled empanadas at his Cloverdale bakery, Panaderia El Palomo, which he and his wife, Adriana Lara, opened in 2005. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)

In the 1990s, what could have spelled death to Cloverdale’s downtown turned out to have a silver lining. Highway 101, which cut through the center of town and forced drivers to make stops at some intersections, became a proper freeway in 1994, rerouted east of town. Many businesses suffered or closed after the diversion, so city officials launched a $4 million redesign of downtown (arts alliance founder Joyce Mann led the efforts) to include a plaza, upgraded storefronts and walkways. Like Healdsburg’s plaza, Cloverdale’s provides a place for residents to meld into a singular community.

It’s all a far cry from Cloverdale’s early days, when sawmills, manufacturing and citrus groves dominated the landscape.

“Cloverdale used to be a logging town,” explained Rich Blasi, a Cloverdale auto serviceman, as he watched a construction crew add the finishing touches to Papa’s Pizza, which owner Mike Nixon expanded and relocated from First Street to Cloverdale Boulevard. “Until 1960 or so, there were 13 sawmills and 13 bars. It’s all changed so much.”

Roberto Perdomo rolls out dough to make fruit-filled empanadas at his Cloverdale bakery, Panaderia El Palomo, which he and his wife, Adriana Lara, opened in 2005. (Photo / Alvin Jornada)
Roberto Perdomo rolls out dough to make fruit-filled empanadas at his Cloverdale bakery, Panaderia El Palomo, which he and his wife, Adriana Lara, opened in 2005. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)

In the 1890s, acres upon acres of oranges and lemons were planted, and the area became known as the “Orange Belt” (Healdsburg was the “Buckle of the Prune Belt”). But killing frosts and competition from Southern California groves forced ranchers to turn to peaches and apricots. After Prohibition, it was wine grapes, and today there are seven winery tasting rooms and an American Viticultural Area, Pine Mountain-Cloverdale Peak, in the region. Yet the Citrus Fair remains, having marked its 124th birthday in February.

Cloverdale isn’t teeming (yet) with tourists, but the trickle has increased to a babbling brook, generating welcome tax revenue. A train station was built in 1998, though service was never established. However, SMART plans to extend its rail line from Santa Rosa to Cloverdale in the future, likely bringing more visitors.

Even as the town changes, longtime traditions like the Cloverdale Citrus Fair remain a big draw for the community. (Photo / Crista Jeremiason)
Even as the town changes, longtime traditions like the Cloverdale Citrus Fair remain a big draw for the community. (Photo by Crista Jeremiason)

Vestiges of old Cloverdale remain. The Dante, which began life in 1888 as the New Toscano Hotel, continues to draw a colorful mix of those who drink by day and those who drink by night. Pick’s Drive-In has served ice cream, burgers and hot dogs since 1923. The Cloverdale Historical Society resides in the 1880s-built Gould-Shaw house. Stately Victorians still line Cloverdale Boulevard. One lumber mill remains, Redwood Empire Sawmill.

Healdsburg was once called “Hicksburg,” and look at it now. “Clovertucky” is still heard occasionally to describe Cloverdale, though the joke has worn thin. Some residents are concerned that the city will become too much like Healdsburg, where parking has become difficult and downtown winery tasting rooms have replaced shops that once catered to locals.

“Cloverdale is developing exactly as it should, with its own personality separate from Healdsburg, yet distinctly Sonoma County,” Christopher O’Gorman said. “It’s a perfect blend of rural authenticity and Wine Country. It’s a great family town, a great place to invest, and we can’t wait to see what’s next.”