Page 383 – Sonoma Magazine

The 6 Sweetest Pastry Chefs in Sonoma County

October 2016

By Heather Irwin

Did you know one of the Top 10 Pastry Chefs in America lives and works right here in Sonoma County? And that his nickname is “Buttercup”? Meet Robert Nieto and 5 other amazing local pastry chefs we love…

Somewhere between the heat of the sun and molten lava is the perfect temperature for pulling melted sugar into lovely candy ribbons. Robert Nieto has the scars to prove it.

Working under a glowing red heat lamp in the Santa Rosa kitchen of Jackson Family Wines, he gingerly tugs at a 200-plus-degree blob of boiled sugar with gentle flicks of his wrist, creating thin wisps of candy that harden almost immediately into curls. In mere minutes, the blob can become a rock, so Nieto works with the intensity of a surgeon, despite the constant pain of his burning fingers.

PASTRYCHEFS113_779123-2 — One of Robert Nieto’s creations: Bittersweet chocolate mousse with chocolate soil, chocolate crémeux, raspberries, milk chocolate cream, and dehydrated dulce-caramel corn mousse.

The life of a pastry chef isn’t always so sweet.

Nieto is one of several highly trained Sonoma pastry chefs whose media are chocotemptations late, sugar, flour, cream and butter. More than bakers, these oft-overlooked artisans are equal parts scientist and artist, working with a precision and intensity demonstrated by the dreamy confections that make a great meal extraordinary.

Unlike a savory pan sauce or piece of meat that might benefit from an added pinch of salt at the end, baking is unforgiving. Pastry and confections are about exact measurements and processes so the soufflé doesn’t fall and the custard doesn’t break into an oily mess. It takes expertise to create a dessert so intriguing that it can stand up to every other course of the meal.

Here are six Sonoma masters of the craft.

ROBERT NIETO
Jackson Family Wines, Santa Rosa

PASTRY SUPERPOWER: Chocolate.

CAN’T TAKE OFF THE MENU: Mama Frischkorn’s Caramel Corn (a Jackson Family specialty).

As part of the Jackson Family Wines culinary team, Nieto produces a vast lineup of desserts — from perfect cylinders of chocolate ganache with gold-covered chocolate or butterscotch panna cotta with candy cap mushroom meringue and sweet potato ice cream, to sculptural creations of tuile, mango cream and rhubarb sauce — as well as all manner of breads and pastries featured on menus at the various Jackson Family wineries and tasting rooms.

“I’m always looking for the wow factor,” he said. Using geometric shapes, molds and unexpected twists, such as candy ribbons, his plates engage all the senses.

Robert Nieto’s flourless chocolate cake with cherries, pistachio cream, Earl Grey gel and cherry tuile.

In just about every spare moment (and with the blessings of his bosses), he trains in Chicago for a spot on Pastry Team USA, which will compete in the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie competition in Lyon, France, in January 2017. Nieto was also chosen one of the top 10 pastry chefs in the country this year by Dessert Professional magazine.

As for the nickname he’s learned to love? “Buttercup” was foisted on him by Jackson Family executive chef Justin Wangler after a particularly ungraceful game of volleyball, where Nieto became “Butterfingers.” Over time, it morphed into Buttercup. With a portfolio of work that includes tiny pink macarons filled with cream, statues of chocolate and spun sugar, and pastry so delicate it nearly evaporates to the touch, his nickname suits him.

Taste Nieto’s creations at Kendall-Jackson’s north Santa Rosa tasting room, 5007 Fulton Road, Fulton, 707-576-3810, kj.com/wine-andchocolate- pairing. A wine and chocolate pairing is offered, by appointment, for $25.

DAVID BLOM
Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn, Sonoma

PASTRY SUPERPOWER: Jack of all desserts.

CAN’T TAKE OFF THE MENU: Wild strawberries, when in season.

With the competing demands of special-event cakes, dining-room desserts and the Fairmont’s luxe holiday buffet spreads (usually with more than a dozen desserts), Blom is a pastry master by necessity. Named one of the best pastry chefs in America by Chocolatier magazine, he’s been the executive pastry chef at Sonoma Mission Inn for 12 years. His favorite dishes include green tea crème brûlée cake with vanilla-poached rhubarb, and a salted caramel mousse Napoleon.

Having grown up in a family of bakers, frosting is in his blood, yet he continues to push the boundaries of pastry-making, whether by ingredient or technique.

“Buffet desserts, plated desserts, wedding cakes, special-occasion cakes, bread baking, chocolate work, sugar work, molecular gastronomy, confectionery … you need to be adept at all aspects of the pastry profession in a resort setting,” Blom said.

100 Boyes Blvd., Sonoma, 707-9389000, fairmont.com/sonoma

EMMANUEL “MANNY” FIMBREZ
Madrona Manor, Healdsburg

PASTRY SUPERPOWER: Molecular gastronomy.

CAN’T TAKE OFF THE MENU: Liquid nitrogen tableside ice cream.

Fimbrez is a confectionery wunderkind. Like the manor’s top toque, Jesse Mallgren, he loves deconstructed dishes that mix whimsy, texture, temperature and flavors in surprising ways.

Unfettered by creating a full dessert menu (his sweets are showcased in the tasting menu), Fimbrez isn’t shackled to brownie sundaes and lava cakes. Instead, his signature is “Peas and a Pod,” a strawberry tart with a pulled-sugar pea pod filled with lemon ganache “peas” rolled in pea powder.

Manny Fimbrez’s “Peas and a Pod”: a strawberry tart with a pulled-sugar pea pod filled with lemon ganache “peas” rolled in pea powder.

This kind of science-based culinary play also includes his take on the traditional sour cream cheesecake, with his own version of Dippin’ Dots (tiny beads of ice cream frozen with liquid nitrogen). The hardest thing about being a pastry chef, Fimbrez said, is trying to do justice to the amazing farming community.

“Everyone knows the Lao (Saetern) strawberry stand in Sebastopol has the best strawberries and knows what they taste like, so you always want to showcase his product,” he said.

1001 Westside Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-4231, madronamanor.com

CASEY STONE
John Ash & Co., Santa Rosa

PASTRY SUPERPOWER: Kneading dough.

CAN’T TAKE OFF THE MENU: Cheesecake.

With more than a decade on the job at one of Santa Rosa’s favorite dining destinations, Stone knows the four things people really want to see on a dessert menu: something chocolate, something lemon, something comforting and something with ice cream or custard. It’s a pretty simple formula, but Stone has fairy-godmother talent for turning a dish such as chocolate mousse into a fantastical dome of devil’s food cake with vanilla bean-infused syrup, chocolate pearls, bittersweet chocolate mousse and a chocolate glaze.

Casey Stone is known for his gorgeous cheesecakes, including this raspberry version.

“There are a lot of components to it that you have to have ready before you can assemble them, but it’s super rich and I love it,” said Stone, who is responsible not only for desserts for the restaurant, but also the hotel, event center and catering.

His signature cheesecake gets its golden slippers from Meyer lemons, huckleberries and tangerine sorbet.

He gets his inspiration from local ingredients and produce grown on the property. As for his talent for kneading bread dough? “I like the feel of it and I do it pretty well,” he said.

4350 Barnes Road, Santa Rosa, 707-527-7687, vintnersinn.com

LISA KAUFMAN
Dry Creek Kitchen, Healdsburg

PASTRY SUPERPOWER: Lemon tarts.

CAN’T TAKE OFF THE MENU: Chocolate peanut butter bar.

The new kid on the block, Kaufman claims she got the job at Charlie Palmer’s Healdsburg restaurant because the other candidate didn’t show up. That, and the fact that the restaurant’s longtime pastry chef, Andrew Di Clementi, was willing to give the recent Santa Rosa Junior College culinary graduate a shot.

Lisa Kaufman's Strawberry Pain Perdu. — Lisa Kaufman’s Strawberry Pain Perdu.

“He saw something in me,” Kaufman said. She was also eager to learn from Di Clementi (now at Palmer’s Harvest Table in St. Helena), Palmer and pastry mentors at his Aureole restaurants in New York and Las Vegas.

Lisa Kaufman’s crème brûlée cheesecake with compressed kiwi and oranges.

Her favorite dessert on the Dry Creek Kitchen menu: crème brûlée cheesecake with compressed kiwi and oranges. The dessert that still eludes her: baked Alaska, a show-stopping dome of cake and ice cream topped with meringue and briefly cooked in an oven.

317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-431-0330, drycreekkitchen.com

SCOTT NOLL
Barndiva, Healdsburg

PASTRY SUPERPOWER: Insatiable curiosity.

CAN’T TAKE OFF THE MENU: Milk & Honey.

Noll’s pre-chef experiences in mechanical engineering and art gave him a foundation for precision baking and creating beautiful dishes.

The owner of a vintage Porsche 912 with the license plate PASTREE, he’s a kitchen veteran with old-school mentors including Joyce Goldstein and John Ash, and current Barndiva chef Ryan Fancher. His personal style is mixing familiar flavors with modern presentations, such as with his butterscotch pudding with a piping of Scotch whisky.

Scott Noll’s “Milk & Honey”: honey-pickled poached pear against honey tea cake near dehydrated “crunchy” milk with honey ice cream sitting on bee pollen.

One of Noll’s favorites is Milk & Honey, which he calls a “multicomponent surprise package” of dehydrated “crunchy” milk with honey ice cream and honey tea cake, along with a honey-pickled poached pear. A bit of bee pollen under the ice cream completes the concept.

231 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-431-0100, barndiva.com

Photography by Chris Hardy.

Made in Sonoma: World-Class Whiskey

October 2016

By Virginie Boone

It used to be that if you wanted a wee dram of whiskey in Sonoma, you’d drink one from a far-flung, romantically removed place such as Scotland or Ireland, or a domestic Kentucky bourbon or Tennessee sippin’ whiskey. But, as a new generation of spirited folks has met the challenge, you can now add Sonoma to the list of world-class distillers of whiskey.

“Sonoma is a perfect spot for making whiskey,” said Adam Spiegel of Sonoma County Distilling in Rohnert Park. “We are in an area known for great food, wine and beer. We are also coastal and that allows for a damn-near-perfect barrel-aging environment, as it’s hot during the day, drops to a nice cool temperature at night, and with very low humidity. It helps produce great wine and also helps us make great whiskey.

“We have access to Lake Sonoma water and Cobb Mountain spring water,” he added. “Nowadays, we are using many California-grown, organic grains and the sky’s the limit on the effect they will have on our already-top-tier product. We get a sense of place from where the barrels live, where the mashes are made, and the water we use.”

In its simplest form, whiskey involves mashing (steeping) some type of grain and fermenting it into beer, according to Dave Broom, author of “The World Atlas of Whisky.” The beer is distilled and then aged in barrels.

Broom adds, however, that the variations on these simple principles of whiskey-making have never been greater, with distillers around the globe questioning why they should conform to what has been handed down.

This means a world of experimentation is going on right now, with whiskeys being made not only from rye, corn, barley or wheat, but also oats, spelt and quinoa. Barleys are being toasted at different levels to produce different flavors. Malts are being smoked not only over peat, but perhaps also nettles or sheep manure. In the process of fermentation, ale and wine yeasts might be in play.

Fred and Amy Groth at Prohibition Spirits distillery in Sonoma, which is also home to HelloCello Limoncello di Sonoma. (Photo / Alvin Jornada) — Fred and Amy Groth at Prohibition Spirits distillery in Sonoma, which is also home to HelloCello Limoncello di Sonoma. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)

Though Scotland dominates the whiskey world with its single malts, rye whiskey was once America’s favorite. But Prohibition changed its fortunes as people discovered bourbon, which, sweeter and stronger, gave them more illicit bang for their buck. Today, we like it all and the distilleries we highlight here are, in many instances, making a range of whiskeys.

Alley 6 Craft Distillery

A husband-and-wife-run outfit opened in 2012 in Healdsburg, Alley 6 is devoted to making rye whiskey in small batches from an alembic copper pot. They mill the grain, mash, distill, barrel and bottle, all on-site. A visit to the distillery is worth it to see the distillery mural alone, and tastings and tours are also possible ($10).

1401 Grove St., Healdsburg, 707-484-3593, alley6.com

Prohibition Spirits

Amy and Fred Groth, the same folks who make HelloCello Limoncello, focus on bourbon, rye and sour mash whiskey at Prohibition Spirits, as well as a house whiskey made from 100 percent corn and bottled unaged. They incorporate their location in Wine Country by finishing their Hooker’s House Rye in Zinfandel barrels and Hooker’s House Bourbon in Pinot Noir barrels. Visits to the distillery and tasting bar can be booked online.

21877 Eighth St. E., Sonoma, 707-721-6390, prohibition-spirits.com

Sonoma Brothers Distilling

Twins and Sonoma County natives Brandon and Chris Matthies — policeman and firefighter, respectively — make small batches of bourbon (plus gin and vodka) from GMO-free corn, wheat and malted barley, aging the spirit in new American oak barrels. The taste of their bourbon is pure cherry-vanilla, ideal for sipping and also popular with local bartenders for cocktails.

7759 Bell Road, Windsor, 707-888-2120, sonomabrothersdistilling.com

Sonoma County Distilling

Adam Spiegel is the one-man show behind Sonoma County Distilling, founded in 2010, where he makes a range of popular products. The first is Sonoma Rye Whiskey, which he produces from 100 percent rye mash, distilling in direct-fire alembic stills. The rye is then aged in charred new American oak and finished in wood to bring out flavors of vanilla and white pepper. Spiegel’s 2nd Chance Wheat Whiskey is a blend of unmalted California wheat and malted rye, twice directfire distilled, with the aim of producing a smoothly textured taste experience. Lastly, he makes a limited amount every year of West of Kentucky Bourbon. The tasting room is open for walk-ins Wednesday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., and by appointment Saturday and Sunday.

5625 State Farm Drive, No. 18, Rohnert Park, 707-583-7753, sonomacountydistilling.com

Spirit Works Distillery

A grain-to-glass operation within Sebastopol’s The Barlow, run by husband-and-wife team Timo and Ashby Marshall, Spirit Works does everything in-house, from milling the grain to creating the mash to distilling its gin, vodka and sloe gin on-site and aging some of the gin in barrels. It began releasing the first of its whiskeys this year, a Straight Rye Whiskey and

Straight Wheat Whiskey. The wheat is grown in the Sacramento Valley and the whiskey given two years in charred, new American white oak barrels, while the rye is similarly aged. The tasting room is open Thursday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., with a charge of $18 for six tastes. Or book online for a distillery tour, Friday through Sunday, at 4 p.m., concluding with a tasting ($20).

6709 McKinley St., No. 100, Sebastopol, 707-634-4793, spiritworksdistillery.com

Stillwater Spirits

Moylan’s Brewing in Novato is behind Stillwater Spirits in Petaluma and produces an American Rye Whisky aged four years in new American white oak barrels. The majority of the blend is rye, with a bit of barley. Stillwater also offers a Bourbon Cask Strength Whisky, an 86-proof Single-Malt Whisky made from 100 percent malt and aged in bourbon and beer barrels, and a Cask Strength Single-Malt Whisky from 100 percent malt that lands at 117 proof. As if that weren’t enough, Moylan’s also makes a Double-Barrel Cask Strength Single-Malt Whisky by distilling cherry wood-smoked barley and wheat, then aging it for eight years in oak bourbon and beer barrels.

611 Second St., Petaluma, 707-778-6041, stillwaterspirits.squarespace.com

Best Batches

Alley 6 Craft Distillery Rye Whiskey, $55

At 86 proof, this is a nice sipping rye with elements of honey, oak, vanilla and spicy caramel. But it also works in cocktails. Owner Krystle Jorgensen recommends it in an Alley 6 Old Fashioned. Muddle orange zest, 1 teaspoon of sugar in the raw, and three splashes of Angostura Bitters. Add 2 ounces of Alley 6 Rye, add ice and stir. Finish with a burnt orange peel and zest of lemon.

Prohibition Spirits Hooker’s House Bourbon, $45

Finished in barrels previously used to age Pinot Noir, this bourbon was made in a small batch at 100 proof. It’s smooth and velvety, with a smoky vanillin note in the aroma and finish.

Sonoma County Distilling Sonoma Rye Whiskey, $65

Distilled with Lake Sonoma water and aged in new charred American oak barrels, this rye is a mix of allspice and white pepper wrapped in sweeter, smoother layers of maple and vanilla. It’ll make a great Manhattan.

Spirits Works Straight Wheat Whiskey, $70

Notable characteristics of this whiskey include tobacco and butterscotch, with softer nuances of walnut, stone fruit, tea and caramelized sugar. This is one to enjoy in cocktails such as the distillery’s Nutty Professor, a mix of the whiskey, lemon juice, walnut liqueur, simple syrup and an optional whisk of egg white.

Stillwater Spirits Moylan’s Double-Barrel Cask Strength Single-Malt Whisky, $95

At 116.2 proof, this is a sipping spirit for certain, with sweet, smoky, spicy richness that purrs on the palate. Wilibees Wine & Spirits in Petaluma and Santa Rosa can barely keep this in stock. If you can’t find it, try Moylan’s American Single-Malt Whisky ($50), at 86 proof and more widely available.

Five Budget Wines for Exotic Tastes

October 2016

By Peg Melnik

Sometimes you want to uncork a left-of-center wine, something a bit obscure. When you’re in an exotic frame of mind, mainstream varietals just won’t do.

Here are five intriguing wines that are decidedly left of center, most under $20:

Mathis, 2012 Sonoma Valley Grenache, 14.6%, $27. This grenache is weighted to blackberry and plum. Notes of strawberry, black cherry and black pepper spice. Bright acidity. Crisp finish.

McManis, 2015 River Junction California Viognier, 13.5%, $13. This is a tasty viognier with some gorgeous fruit behind it — apricot, peach and nectarine. It all rides on bright acidity. Lingering finish. Lovely.

Enotria, 2012 Mendocino County Barbera, 14.8%, $19. This tasty barbera is weighted to black fruit, although it has a streak of red currant running through it. The red wine, with jammy fruit, has notes of smoke and toasty oak. But the barbera is kept in check with its crisp acidity. It’s a knockout, Graziano at his best.

Cycles Gladiator, 2014 Central Coast Petite Sirah, 15%, $11. A hefty petite sirah with boisterous fruit and spice. Aromas and flavors of blueberry, plum, toasty oak and cracked black pepper. This is a feisty petite sirah, with plenty of pepper to give it kick.

Kaiken, 2015 Salta Argentina Torrontes, 13.5%, $12. This lovely white has notes of tropical fruit, mineral and a hint of peach. A steal for the price.

Things To Do This Week in Sonoma County, Oct. 28 to Nov. 6

October 2016

By Crissi Langwell

Looking for a spooky good time this week? We’ve scared up some fun events for you to enjoy. This weekend, take the family to the Bay Area Science Festival’s North Bay Discovery Day at the fairgrounds, watch a procession of giant puppets in the Day of the Dead Parade, enjoy some 21-plus fun at the Halloween LGBTQI dance – and more!

FRIDAY, Oct. 28

Petaluma International Film Festival: In its 8th year, this annual festival will feature 40 films from 18 countries, shown over 3 days at the Petaluma Boulevard Cinemas. Tickets are $12 for individual films, $60 for a day pass and $180 for a festival pass to see all screenings. Find out all the details at www.petalumafilmfestival.org. (Oct. 28-30)

Lyla Runkel, 7, carves a pumpkin during the Pumpkins on Pikes event at Tara Firma Farms in Petaluma, California on Saturday, October 22, 2011. (BETH SCHLANKER/ The Press Democrat) Beth Schlanker — Lyla Runkel, 7, carves a pumpkin during the Pumpkins on Pikes event at Tara Firma Farms in Petaluma. (Photo by Beth Schlanker)

SATURDAY, Oct. 29

Green is Easy Expo: This Saturday and Sunday, learn new ways to be kind to environment with this planet-friendly expo at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. The event will feature vendors and activities that encourage practices that benefit the earth. Admission is free from 10 a.m. to noon each day, and $10 after. Find out more at www.thenewworldexpo.com. (Oct. 29-30)

Sonoma County Farm Trails: Fall Feast Fundraiser, Dinner and Auction, featuring the 4-H Heritage Turkey Auction
Tresch Barn at Olympia’s Valley Estate in Petaluma. The event takes place this Saturday, 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Tickets start at $150. www.farmtrails.org

North Bay Discovery Day: This Saturday, take part in the annual festival of science and technology at the Bay Area Science Festival taking place at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. The event takes place 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., and will feature 90 hands-on science exhibits, games, experiments and shows. Admission is free. Find out more at www.bayareascience.org.

Halloween LGBTQI & Friends Dance: Scare up some fun for an evening of dancing, costume contests, appetizers and wine at the Sebastopol Senior Center. Come in costume. Admission is $10 at the door for 21-plus. Find our more at sebastopolseniorcenter.org.

Sebastopol Halloween Party: Starting at 7:30 p.m., dance the night away to Frobeck and Mr. Music & Love Choir at the Sebastopol Community Cultural Center. Come in costume. Admission is $12-$15. Purchase tickets at seb.org.

Midnight of the Day Mad Monster Party: Kids 5 and older are invited to Sebastopol Regional Library for pumpkin decorating, costume fun and more, noon to 2 p.m. Find out more at sonomalibrary.org.

Dressed as a witch for a Halloween bash at Howarth Park in Santa Rosa on Saturday, 3-year-old Bella Pena enjoys her ride on a Pony Express horse. In addition to pony rides, the fifth annual party offered ice cream, candy and plenty of fun. — Dressed as a witch for a Halloween bash at Howarth Park in Santa Rosa, 3-year-old Bella Pena enjoys her ride on a Pony Express horse. (Photo by Kent Porter)

Halloween at Howarth Park: Come in costume for an afternoon of trick-or-treating around the park. Families are invited to register for a time slot, and then travel through the park to treat stations hosted by local businesses and organizations. Admission is $5 for a basic pass, and $12 to include additional park fun. Register at pd2go.net/HalloweenAtHowarth.

Pumpkins on Pikes: This annual event at Tara Firma Farms has become a beloved tradition for Sonoma County families. Carve a pumpkin, then display it on a pike in the corn field. When the sun goes down, watch the magical glow while enjoying delicious food, music and more. Admission is $15-$20, and kids 6 and under are free. Purchase tickets at tarafirmafarms.com.

Dogtoberfest: Why should humans have all the fun? Dogs and their people are invited to Topel Winery in Healdsburg for a day all about them, with a costume contest, a pet psychic, pet portraits and more. Information at facebook.com/topelwinery.

Candlelight Procession with Giant Puppets: Watch as giant puppets make their way through Petaluma, starting at the Water Street Bistro and ending at the Petaluma Museum. Along with the parade, the event will include Aztec dancers, live music, food and art vendors, altars and more. More information at petalumamuseum.com.

Apple Blossom Halloween Carnival: Wear your costume to Apple Blossom Elementary School’s Halloween Carnvial for an afternoon of carnival games, face painting, a pumpkin carving contest and more, plus the 5th grade hosted haunted house. This free event is 12 p.m. to 4 p.m. at Apple Blossom Elementary School, 700 Watertrough Rd. Sebastopol. Proceeds benefit the Twin Hills Apple Blossom Education Foundation.

Francis Ford Coppola Winery in Geyserville opened it's doors for a halloween carnival, Saturday Oct. 30. 2010, party goers dined at Rustic, located inside the revamped winery. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat) 2010 Kent Porter — Francis Ford Coppola Winery in Geyserville opens its doors for a halloween carnival, Sunday Oct. 30. (Photo by Kent Porter)

SUNDAY, Oct. 30

Halloween Carnival at Coppola: From 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., enjoy a day of games, crafts and costume fun at Francis Ford Coppola Winery. Tickets are available for purchase until Oct. 17. Admission is $12 per child, 14 and under. Purchase tickets at francisfordcoppolawinery.com.

Through Nov. 13
Live performance of Rocky Horror Picture Show: The 6th Street players present a live-action performance of the Rocky Horror Picture Show. Every line and song is true to the original for this Santa Rosa tradition. Performances are Thursdays through Sunday. Admission is $10-$26. Purchase tickets at 6thstreetplayhouse.com.

More Upcoming Events…

Friday, Oct. 28

Ice-T: ‘Overcoming the Impossible’ lecture with the gangster rapper, 7:30 p.m., Weill Hall, Green Music Center, Rohnert Park. $40. (866) 955-6040, gmc.sonoma.edu.

HopMonk Cirque du Sebastopol: Vintage circus acts, live music and entertainment, 8:45 tonight and 9 p.m. Saturday, HopMonk Tavern, Sebastopol. $15-$35. 829-7300, hopmonk-sebastopol.ticketfly.com.

Supernatural Soiree: Sea-bound voyage theme, live music, 9:30 tonight, Bergamot Alley, Healdsburg. $50. 433-8720, bergamotalley.com.

‘Zombie Town’: Mockumentary play presented by YAS Teen Ensemble, 7 tonight, 1 and 7 p.m. Saturday, Raven Performing Arts Theater, Healdsburg. $10-$15. 433-6335, raventheater.org.

Saturday, Oct. 29

‘Bouquets to the Dead’: Artistic displays honoring late ancestors, dawn to dusk, Saturday and Sunday, Sonoma Mountain Cemetery. Free. facebook.com/bouquetstothedead.

Sunday, Oct. 30

Zak Hussein Niladri Kuma: World musicians on the tabla and sitar, 3 p.m. Sunday, Weill Hall, Green Music Center, Rohnert Park. $35-$85. (866) 955-6040, gmc.sonoma.edu.

Will Durst: ‘Elect to Laugh’ standup comedy and theater show poking fun at the presidential election, 7:30 p.m. Sunday, Cinnabar Theater, Petaluma. $25-$30. 763-8920, cinnabartheater.org.

Monday, Oct. 31

Trick-or-Treat Trail: Goodies for costumed kids under 12 from 60 downtown Petaluma merchants, 3-5:30 p.m. Monday. Free. 762-9348, petalumadowntown.com.

‘Phantoms and Fugues’: ‘It’s the Great Pumpkin, Charlie Brown’ movie, organ music, treats. Costumes encouraged. 6:30 p.m. Monday, Schroeder Hall, Green Music Center, Rohnert Park. $8. (866) 955-6040, gmc.sonoma.edu.

Tuesday, Nov. 1

Dia de los Muertos: Decorative altar honoring late Sonoma Valley citizens, reception 6-8 p.m. Tuesday, Sonoma Community Center. Costumes encouraged. Free. 938-4626, ext. 1, sonomacommunitycenter.org.

Wednesday, Nov. 2

Tony Bennett: Beloved longtime recording artist, now 90, with daughter Antonia Bennett opening the show, 8 p.m. Wednesday, Luther Burbank Center, Santa Rosa. $89-$149. 546-3600, lutherburbankcenter.org.

Thursday, Nov. 3

Fall Dance Show: Original Sonoma State University student performances, ‘Heart’ and ‘Soul,’ alternating times, opens 7:30 p.m. Thursday, through Nov. 6, SSU, Rohnert Park. $5-$17. 664-4246, sonoma.edu.

‘Frankenstein’: National Theatre Live’s screened stage production of the classic gothic tale, 1 and 7 p.m. Thursday, Rialto Cinemas, Sebastopol. $18-$25. 829-3456, rialtocinemas.com.

Jack London Classic Film Fest: Three-day festival opens with ‘The Call of the Wild,’ 5 p.m. Thursday, Sonoma Community Center. $25. 938-4626, ext. 1, sonomacommunitycenter.org.

Friday, Nov. 4

The Sam Chase plus The Crux: Rock and folk, New Orleans brass to jazz, 9 p.m. Nov. 4, Mystic Theatre, Petaluma. $17. 765-2121, mystictheatre.com.

Sonoma State High School Choral Festival: Angel Vázquez-Ramos, adjudicator, 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Nov. 4, Schroeder Hall, Green Music Center, Rohnert Park. Free, $5 parking. 664-2324, sonoma.edu.

Fly by Train: Rocking folk Americana band, two sets, 8 p.m. Nov. 4, Twin Oaks Roadhouse, Penngrove. Free. 795-5118, twinoaksroadhouse.com.

One Grass Two Grass: California string band music, 9 p.m. Nov. 4, HopMonk Tavern, Sebastopol. $13. 829-7300, hopmonk-sebastopol.ticketfly.com.

Saturday, Nov. 5

Wine & Food Affair: Wine tasting and food pairing, 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Nov. 5-6 at various wineries along northern Sonoma County Wine Road. $30-$80. wineroad.com.

Botanical artist demonstrations: Artists of various mediums demonstrate their work, 1-4 p.m. Nov. 5, Petaluma Arts Center. Free. 762-5600, petalumaartscenter.org.

‘Whose Live Anyway?’: Improv comedy scenes and songs with Ryan Stiles and crew, 8 p.m. Nov. 5, Luther Burbank Center, Santa Rosa. $39-$59. 546-3600, lutherburbankcenter.org.

Noche de los Muertos: Windsor Bloco dancers and drummers, food, music, Calavera-style face painting, costumes encouraged, 5:30-8:30 p.m. Nov. 5, Wndsor Town Green. Free. windsor-bloco.org.

Sunday, Nov. 6

The Ocean: Heavy metal show with synchronized lights, 7 p.m. Nov. 6, Phoenix Theater, Petluma. $14-$16. 762-3565, thephoenixtheater.com.

Agent Orange: Punk rock band, first one mixing punk with surf music, 8:30 p.m. Nov. 6, Mystic Theatre, Petaluma. $17. 765-2121, mystictheatre.com.

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20 Dog Friendly Places In Sonoma County

October 2016

By Jenna Fischer

Taylor Mountain Regional Park in Santa Rosa. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)

Love to explore and travel, but don’t know if the pup can go, too? Browse the gallery below for different dog-friendly spots in Sonoma County. Did we miss a pet-friendly place? Let us know in the comments.

Portuguese Beach

Sonoma County Regional Parks Bodega Bay (leashed, six feet or less, and licensed dogs allowed at all parks)

Kunde Vineyards in Kenwood

dog 3 — (Courtesy of Kunde Estate Winery and Vineyards)

The Sea Ranch (all trails)

Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa in Sonoma

Mutt Lynch Winery in Windsor

Helen Putnam Park in Petaluma

Doran Regional Park on the Sonoma Coast (leashed, six feet or less, and licensed dogs)

Hood Mountain Trail in Hood Mountain Regional Park in Santa Rosa

dog 9 — (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)

Wright’s Beach Campground on the Sonoma Coast

Dawn Ranch Lodge in Guerneville

The Barlow in Sebastopol

The Jack London State Historic Park (allows leashed and licensed dogs on the Wolf Trail and the 1-mile Beauty Ranch circuit).

Larson Family Winery in Sonoma

Sea Ranch Lodge

Flamingo Conference Resort & Spa in Santa Rosa

Monte Rio Community Beach on the Russian River

The Olea Hotel in Glen Ellen

The Hotel Petaluma on Washington St. in Petaluma

Swede’s Feeds in Kenwood

Looking for more things to do in Sonoma County? Click here.

Sonoma Cider Taproom and Restaurant

October 2016

By biteclub

Bananaweizen wasn’t exactly what I was expecting at the newly-opened Sonoma Cider Taproom, but that’s what co-founder and chief tinkerer Robert Cordtz is planning to put in one of the 23 taps at the Healdsburg taproom.

“It doesn’t taste like banana, it tastes like pineapple,” he tells me. This is also the man responsible for their limited run “Jax” breakfast-cereal inspired cider, about-to-release gingerbread cider (The Cutter), and habanero lime cider (The Crowbar).

Sonoma Cider Taproom and Restaurant in Healdsburg. Photo: Gretchen Gause

Cordtz and his dad, David, have a thing for cider, having grown their Healdsburg-based cider company to more than 100,000 cases in just three years. The opening of the taproom and restaurant will allow them to feature even more of their limited run, reserve, and micro-releases along with their core line of ciders: Apple (The Hatchet), pear (The Pitchfork), bourbon (The Anvil) and sarsaparilla vanilla (The Washboard).

What’s got Biteclub so stoked is the addition of a restaurant inside the 5,500 square foot taproom. The idea started as nibbles to be paired with their ciders — food and beverage combination they say is a real nature with the delicate apple flavors.

Banh mi sandwich at Sonoma Cider Taproom and Restaurant in Healdsburg. Heather Irwin/PD

That turned into a fully-formed, and ambitious menu with the addition of Executive Chef Matthew Hodson. Though menus will be limited during the soft launch, staples include one of the best Crab Mac and Cheese ($10) we’ve ever had (easy for two to share); mixed charcuterie or pate Banh Mi ($15); smoked, raw and baked oysters; a Nicoise salad ($16) and luxurious French Onion Soup ($6) with Sonoma Cider Apple Brandy and melted Gruyere.

Crab mac and cheese at Sonoma Cider Taproom and Restaurant in Healdsburg. Heather Irwin/PD

A more extensive dinner menu includes risotto, Deviled Duck Eggs ($6), sweet and savory crepes; smoked baby back ribs and Chicken Normandy ($20) with roasted apples, Apple Brandy, chive mashed potatoes and green beans.

“If we can put cider in it, we do,” said Hodson, who modeled the menu on the food of famous French and Basque cider regions.

French onion soup at Sonoma Cider Taproom and Restaurant in Healdsburg. Heather Irwin/PD

But here’s where the food really gets impressive. Hodson is doing all of this food out of a kitchen that has three induction burners, a minuscule convection oven, an outdoor grill and a smoker — an almost laughable set-up for a professional chef. Strict permitting issues didn’t allow for gas burners or other amenities, so Hodson makes due with remarkable finesse. Rather than a walk-in, he uses a single freezer and fridge space specially built behind the taps.

In addition to the cider and food, the taproom will feature several local wines, Taylor Maid nitro coffee, juices and sodas. With about 60 seats inside and out, with roll-up doors, it’s a lovely spot to relax. The taproom also features a large entertainment area where they’ll host music and comedy shows, along with wedding and special events for up to 175. The 1,800 square foot patio is dog-friendly.

Sonoma Cider Taproom and Restaurant in Healdsburg. Heather Irwin/PD

Reservations are highly recommended.

44 Mill Street., Healdsburg, behind Mill Street Antiques and the Parish Cafe). Open daily for lunch from 11a.m. to 3p.m. and dinner from 5p.m. to 9p.m.. Happy hour from 3-5p.m.. Tours available Friday and Saturday from 11a.m. to 2p.m. (707) 723-7018, or sonomacider.com.

Smoked Oysters at Sonoma Cider Taproom and Restaurant in Healdsburg. Heather Irwin/PD

Few surprises in 2017 Bay Area Michelin Stars

October 2016

By biteclub

The longtime grudge match for restaurant superiority between NYC and the Bay Area just got settled. At least for now.

The announcement of the 2017 Michelin stars for San Francisco brought with it the fist-pumping news that we finally have six three-star restaurants, an equal number as NYC. On that rarified list is newcomer Quince, which was bumped up from two stars, along with SF’s Benu and Saison; Napa Valley’s Restaurant at Meadowood and French Laundry; and Manresa in the South Bay. The grand total of Bay Area Michelin stars is now at 54, up four from last year.

Quince is run by Lindsay and Michael Tusk, serving “inspired cuisine that pays homage to classic Italian flavors with a refined contemporary flair,” according to a prepared release from Michelin. The couple got props from fellow three-star restaurant owner Thomas Keller of The French Laundry.

Well-deserved @MichaelTusk and @quincesf! https://t.co/J8u6U61bYz

— Thomas Keller (@Chef_Keller) October 25, 2016

“We have closely watched Chef Michael Tusk for several years now. In his cuisine, every dish, even the simplest, is exceptional,” comments Michael Ellis, International Director of the Michelin Guide. “It is his fine, precise techniques, that now makes Quince a unique experience for the customer: an experience that is worth the trip.” The “famously anonymous” inspectors for the restaurant guide seem to have been on cruise control, however, when it came to the rest of the list. There were few changes from the 2016 list of two and three-star honorees. SF’s Lazy Bear was bumped up to two stars from its single star last year and seven restaurants were tapped for a first star, though none were north of San Francisco. Wine Country kept its eight one-star ratings: Auberge du Soleil (Rutherford), Farmhouse Inn and Restaurant (Forestville), La Toque (Napa), Solbar (Calistoga), Terra (St. Helena) and Terrapin Creek (Bodega Bay). Solbar chef Brandon Sharp left in October for a job in North Carolina after nine consecutive one-star wins for the restaurant. This is Healdsburg’s Farmhouse Inn’s eleventh consecutive Michelin one-star rating.

I am always nervous waiting for the call from @MichelinGuideSF we have once again received one ⭐️ — Jesse Mallgren (@madronachef) October 25, 2016

Restaurants chosen for the annual Michelin guide are judged on five criteria defined by Michelin: product quality; preparation and flavors; the chef’s personality as revealed through his or her cuisine; value for money; and consistency over time and across the entire menu. The official 2017 San Francisco Michelin Guide will be released on Oct. 25, 2016, and will include the Bib Gourmand restaurants awarded last week.

Here’s the full list of Bay Area Michelin-star restaurants…

Three Stars

Benu, San Francisco
The French Laundry, Yountville
Manresa, Los Gatos
Quince, San Francisco (NEW, up from 2 stars)
The Restaurant at Meadowood, Wine Country
Saison, San Francisco

Two Stars

Acquerello, San Francisco
Atelier Crenn, San Francisco
Baumé, South Bay
Campton Place, San Francisco
Coi, San Francisco
Commis, Oakland
Lazy Bear, San Francisco (NEW, up from one star)

One Star

Adega, San Jose (NEW)
Al’s Place, San Francisco
Aster, San Francisco
Auberge du Soleil, Rutherford
Aziza, San Francisco
Bouchon, Yountville
Californios, San Francisco
Chez TJ, South Bay
Commonwealth, San Francisco
Farmhouse Inn & Restaurant, Forestville
Gary Danko, San Francisco
Hashiri, San Francisco (NEW)
Ju-ni, San Francisco (NEW)
Keiko à Nob Hill, San Francisco
Kin Khao, San Francisco
La Toque, Napa
Lord Stanley, San Francisco
Luce, San Francisco
Madera, Peninsula (NEW)
Madrona Manor, Wine Country
Michael Mina, San Francisco
Mister Jiu’s, San Francisco (NEW)
Mosu, San Francisco (NEW)
Mourad, San Francisco
Nico, San Francisco
Octavia, San Francisco
Omakase, San Francisco
Plumed Horse, South Bay
The Progress, San Francisco (NEW)
Rasa, Peninsula
Solbar, Calistoga
Sons & Daughters, San Francisco
SPQR, San Francisco
Spruce, San Francisco
State Bird Provisions, San Francisco
Sushi Yoshizumi, Peninsula
Terra, St. Helena
Terrapin Creek, Bodega Bay
The Village Pub, Peninsula
Wako, San Francisco
Wakuriya, Peninsula

6 Sonoma County Restaurants to Try This Fall

October 2016

By Heather Irwin

Hassle-free Thanksgiving dinner includes turkey breasts, stuffing, gravy and squash. Photo taken at Shed in Healdsburg, on Thursday, November 5, 2015. (BETH SCHLANKER/ The Press Democrat) Thanksgiving at Shed

From Michelin nods to what locals are embracing, here are 6 Sonoma restaurants you’ll want to try this fall.

KINSmoke

Look for lines out the door waiting for St. Louis-style ribs, brisket, smoked chicken, cornbread and pulled pork at this modern Texas roadhouse. You’ll be asked if you want fatty or lean brisket (a true sign of a great barbecue spot), sides aren’t an afterthought and the beer and wine list are exemplary. One other thing: Get there early, because when it runs out of ’cue, that’s it for the day. There’s a roll of paper towels on each table and five regional sauces from which to choose, from Alabama white to Carolina mustard, plus a Kansas City-style that’s been a secret of co-owner Brad Barmore’s wife’s family for generations. Contact: 304 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-473-8440, kinsmoke.com

Diavola Pizzeria & Salumeria

Enjoy devilishly great pizzas, homemade salumi and authentic Italian entrees from one of Wine Country’s most talented young chefs, Dino Bugica. After spending 10 years in Italy studying butchering and family-style cooking, Bugica has made his osteria/pizzeria a trek-worthy destination. Contact: 21021 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-814-0111, diavolapizzeria.com

JB0611_RAMEN_009_783809 — Spicy Tan Tan Ramen with Sapporo noodles, sesame, scallion, pork belly chashu, spicy ground pork, charred cabbage, woodier and a 6 minute egg from Ramen Gaijin in Sebastopol. (Photo by John Burgess)

Ramen Gaijin

Two white guys making Japanese ramen? That’s the deal with this buzzy noodle and yakitori spot. Owners Matthew Williams and Moishe Hahn-Schuman are passionate about ramen, painstakingly making their own noodles, dashi and pork stock, and using the best local ingredients. They’ve also added a small yakitori grill featuring everything from chicken skin to pork belly. Ramen Gaijin offers disciplined and beautiful adherence to Japanese tradition with a California twist. Contact: 6948 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol, 707-827-3609, ramengaijin.com

Shiso Modern Asian Kitchen

There have been nothing but raves for this Asianfusion sushi bar and restaurant just off the Sonoma Plaza. Ramen and yakisoba noodles meet Japanese deviled eggs and miso-garlic-grilled corn, martini scallops and superfresh sushi. Contact: 19161 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma, 707-933-9331, shisorestaurant.com

Savvy on First

Far-flung Cloverdale is quietly becoming an impressive food destination, led by Savvy on First. This combination cafe and catering business has some of the best pastries, breakfasts and lunches for miles (and miles), and opens for dinner Thursday through Saturday with small plates like truffled lobster mac and cheese, and larger plates of buttermilk fried chicken and steak frites. A dedication to using local ingredients from farmers and other purveyors puts this restaurant high on the list of go-to places. Contact: 116 E. First St., Cloverdale, 707- 894-3200, savvyonfirst.net

Healdsburg Shed

Michelin-starred chef Perry Hoffman continues to lift the menu of this “Modern Grange” downtown. Dinner service now includes dishes such as slow roasted lamb shoulder with sunflower seed molé, radishes, pomegranate and papalo, and Channel Island halibut with mussels, spinach, walla walla onions and smoked tomato broth. There’s also a Fall Pepper Pizza and bumped-up wine pairings. Contact: 25 North St., Healdsburg, 707-431-7433, healdsburgshed.com

Coppola Announces New Geyserville Restaurant

October 2016

By biteclub

Frances Ford Coppola has announced the opening of a new Geyserville restaurant at the Virginia Dare Winery. Just don’t try to pronounce it.

Christened Werowocomoco (pronounced: Wero-wo-como-ko), the restaurant pays tribute to the first capital of Virginia and home to Powhatan, chief of regional native tribes when English colonists arrived in 1607.

The food will follow suit, with a focus on American native dishes including bison ribs with berry barbecue sauce, river-harvested wild rice with cranberries, and fry bread tacos. The restaurant will have 66 interior seats and extended al fresco patio dining.

Charred corn and lime at Virginia Dare Winery's Werowocomoco. Courtesy photo — Charred corn and lime at Virginia Dare Winery’s Werowocomoco. Courtesy photo

“Virginia Dare Winery highlights the genesis of American winemaking, so it makes sense that our new restaurant would celebrate our country’s indigenous foods,” said Coppola in a prepared statement. “With Werowocomoco, my goal is to present a menu inspired by the culinary traditions of the earliest inhabitants of North America.”

Coppola hinted at the restaurant’s opening last month, though BiteClubbers quickly solved the mystery of the location at the Virginia Dare Winery, which Coppola opened in 2015. Dare was the first child born to English settlers in Roanoake, Virginia territory in 1587. The entire settlement vanished without a trace, and mystery and myth have surrounded the story of Dare and the encampment ever since.

Chicken and wild rice at Virginia Dare Winery's Werowocomoco. Courtesy photo — Chicken and wild rice at Virginia Dare Winery’s Werowocomoco. Courtesy photo

The Pamunkey Indian Tribe, which continues to have a presence in the historic Richmond, Virginia region gave Coppola it’s blessing to borrow the name and honor the heritage of their history.

This is Coppola’s fourth restaurant, following Rustic and the Pool Cafe at his Geyserville namesake winery and Cafe Zoetrope in San Francisco.

The restaurant is slated to open to the public in mid-November after a private opening for the residents of Geyserville on Nov. 4.

Meaty Marvels at Stormy’s in Bloomfield

October 2016

By Carey Sweet

It seems that Stormy’s owner Roger Cramer is proud of his signature prime rib. As a rapt audience watched him march around his restaurant with a giant roasting pan on a recent evening, he paused at each table to show off the huge chunk of meat’s crunchy, seasoned crust and golden-red juices.

“I want an end cut!” one guest suddenly shouted from a corner of the dining room.

“I want the other one!” shouted another guest. And so the dibs were done, since the dish is there only until it’s gone, and it’s first come, first served. There’s quite a bit of meat in between those two end cuts, but still, the prime rib is snatched up quickly.

steak 1 — Prime rib dinner with mashed potatoes and vegetables at Stormy’s Spirits and Supper, in Bloomfield, California.

I’ve been having a good time lately, mentioning Stormy’s to folks and awaiting the reaction. Most people have never heard of the place, but after I’ve finished my tale, everyone wants to go.

Sure, the spirits and supper house has been around since 1854, originally as a hotel, and it’s continued as a rural institution since Cramer’s grandmother, Ellen “Stormy” Cramer took it over in 1961. These days, it’s hard to find a better American comfort food meal for the price.

steak 6 — Bar decor at Stormy’s Spirits and Supper, in Bloomfield, California.

Yet tucked away in Bloomfield, a rural dairy community on the edge of Petaluma/Two Rock and Valley Ford, it’s not a stumble-in kind of spot. Besides the weathered redwood and stone-clad roadhouse eatery, there’s a Masonic lodge in this tiny burg, plus a town hall, a few homes and a whole lot of cows.

On the other hand, if people have been to Stormy’s but not in the past year, I sometimes get a wrinkled nose. For much of its history since Cramer expanded it from a bar to a restaurant in the early 1970s, the place has been notable more for nostalgia than dining, and meals ranged from fine to disappointing. But I would swear flavors are much better now, from the soup to the seafood, like prawns drenched in garlic butter ($35).

Not so, insists Cramer’s daughter, Taylor Marie Cramer. She, along with her dad, her mom, Carolyn Cramer, and her boyfriend, sous chef Fabio Herrera, have always stayed true to the family recipes, she explains. I’m not one to argue with owners, certainly, but my dining companions, who have been coming here for decades for cocktails and steaks, agree with me.

steak 10 — Guests seated for dinner at Stormy’s Spirits and Supper, in Bloomfield, California.

This is a stumble-out place, yes. After a couple of stiff cocktails and a monster-size meal, the next destination is home, happy to bed. All entrees include clam chowder, salad, potato, vegetable and French bread. That prime rib comes in a sidekick cut (16 ounce, $28), and a regular cut (22 ounce, $34), and the sidekick size gave me enough leftovers for three more meals.

The dining room is cozy, but regulars always converge in the lounge, drawn in by the intimate space, the dark, old-time bar and the fireplace that cranks flames even in the summer, given the coastal area’s nearly year-round fog and chill.

steak2 — Roadhouse prawns with mashed potatoes and vegetables at Stormy’s Spirits and Supper, in Bloomfield, California.

Food arrives quickly, starting with hot clam chowder that’s made fresh daily and stocked with lots of seafood and vegetables in tomato-kissed broth. Dipped with butter-spread bread, it’s a very nice start. Salads are perfunctory but fresh, a toss of greens with tomatoes, cucumbers, croutons, julienned carrot and onion in house-made creamy Italian dressing. Creamy potatoes are fluffier and more tangy than in years’ past, and one evening’s seasonal veggies included al dente green beans, carrot coins and broccoli.

But really, we’re in cow country, and it’s all about the meat. Prime rib end cuts are for folks who like drier meat, but my medium rare was perfectly warm, pink and juicy inside, lined with a medium cooked exterior and lots of good, savory fat. A little cup of creamed horseradish was fine, but the off-menu Beaver brand horseradish is the bomb.

I’ve never tried heroin or kissed a live battery, but I imagine it might be like this condiment that was so insanely fiery that a tiny bit on the tip of my tongue shot an electric jolt up my nose into my skull and made my ears tingle. Surprisingly, a second after the shock came, it disappeared, leaving my brain clean and bright with no pain whatsoever. I couldn’t stop trying it again and again, and even begged for a to-go cup from my amused server.

steak 4 — Stormys Spirits and Supper, in Bloomfield, California.

Stormy’s is a good destination for its other beefy staples — New York steak with onion rings ($29/$37), or bone-in rib-eye ($1 per ounce plus $13 for chowder and salad) — that can be upgraded with sautéed mushrooms and/or grilled onions or blue cheese ($6).

I like the fried chicken, too, though it’s hard to wait the 45 minutes it takes to cook the crispy bird to order.

Some plates are even better bargains on Thursdays and Sundays, when fried prawns (regularly $28), chicken sauté ($28) or New York scallopini ($29) are discounted to $22.50 each with all the fixings, and a New York steak comes for $25.50 with mushrooms or onions for $3.

I also suppose if you wanted to fill yourself with appetizers while sipping a cold beer, cocktail or glass of wine, you’d be pleased enough with the decent steamed clams ($19), or deep-fried prawns ($9/$15) with a heavy, breadcrumb coating.

steak 7 — Carolyn Cramer, left, pours drinks while talk with longtime customers Kathy and Jon Little, at Stormy’s Spirits and Supper, in Bloomfield, California.

Just note that wines by the glass are house brand (all $9), meaning whatever is available, and listed simply as chardonnay, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, etc. Bottled choices focus on Sonoma County, like the Cramer Ranch cab from Sebastopol ($45), but I bring my own wine, happy to pay a $14 corkage to drink what I really want.

Still, it’s the prime rib, combined with the historic, casual/fun setting, that’s the star. It feels like a step back in time here, with a mix of saloon and good, old-fashioned steakhouse elevated by that superb beef.

steak 22 — Chef/owner Roger Cramer prepares deep fried calamari at Stormy’s Spirits and Supper, in Bloomfield, California.

Tip: Call, or check Facebook before heading out to Stormy’s. In the winter, coastal torrential weather closes roads, power outages happen now and then year-round, and if the family has an emergency or goes on vacation, they shut the doors.

Too, if you’ve got your heart set on that prime rib, show up by 5:30 p.m. or so to guarantee you score some of that slab. You know, that big, pretty piece of beef is being paraded around the dining room.

Carey Sweet is a Santa Rosa-based food and restaurant writer. Read her restaurant reviews every other week in Sonoma Life. Contact her at carey@careysweet.com.

steak 5 — Chef/owner Roger Cramer, left, works in the kitchen with cook Fabio Herrera and his daughter Taylor Cramer, one of the servers, at Stormy’s Spirits and Supper, in Bloomfield, California.

Photography by Alvin Jornada.

Looking for more things to do in Sonoma County? Click here