Secret Pop Ups at Bowman Cellars in Graton

Asparagus soup at Bowman Cellars pop up dinners in Graton. Heather Irwin/PD

Bowman Cellars’ pop-up dinners are one of Wine Country’s best-kept secrets.

In fact, it’s among those rare unspoiled frivolities that I really wish I could keep to myself. Each month, Alex and Katie Bowman invite cool-kid chefs to run a one-night restaurant from their Graton winery.

No, you don’t have to sit with a bunch of people you don’t know and attempt small talk. Just grab a table (preferably outside) and order from the menu. Obviously, they’ll be pouring their own wines, but that’s a plus because they’re tres food-friendly.

Napa Chef Samuel Kaminsky of Privi Napa catering is a young gun we’re especially fond of. At his last dinner, pastrami-cured egg yolks atop lamb tartare stole the show. For the less meaty, Chef Matteo Silverman of Chalk Hill Cookery creates excellent plant-based dinners, along with various surprise guests like Goat Catering from Goatlandia (don’t worry, they rescue goats not eat them). 

The dinners usually sell out, so make reservations online to secure a spot. You can also visit the winery for snacks and wine on the patio just about any time. 9010 Graton Rd., Graton, 707-827-3391.

The Story Behind Sophie James’ Exclusive Wine Brand and Club

The drive up to Sophie and James Gray’s 2,300-foot-elevation vineyard property is a surreal trip through the best and worst of what Wine Country has to offer.

From the east side of Petaluma, hang a right onto Sonoma Mountain Road— voted the worst of Sonoma County’s pothole-ridden drives in a 2015 Press Democrat online poll— and keep going. Up, up, up along the narrow two-way road: sheer drops with jaw-dropping 180-degree vistas, over cattle grates and under low-hanging branches of 100-year-old oaks.

The top of Sonoma Mountain is not a place a lot of people get to visit. Many of the properties have been owned by the same families for generations, and gate after gate separates them from the crumbling road below, popular with cyclists and those seeking a view that stretches across Petaluma west to the coast. But through the Grays’ burgeoning wine label, Sophie James, the husband-and-wife pair have opened up the experience to their wine club members— and more broadly, to their social media followers through the brand’s increasingly popular Instagram account.

Both Sophie and James Gray attended the same high school in Marin County, graduating in 2002 and 1999, respectively.

James went off to San Diego State University, while Sophie went to the University of Colorado at Boulder. The two wouldn’t reconnect again until 2008, after James had moved back to the U.S. from London, where he built a successful online ticket resale business post-graduation that was eventually acquired by Ticketmaster. On their first date, James told Sophie (née Boddington) he wanted to trade in that life for one as a rancher. Sophie, then a UCSF stem cell researcher working 80 hours a week and on the edge of burn-out, was intrigued.

Primed with cash from his company’s acquisition and with real estate prices down because of the Great Recession, when the couple discovered the two-story glass and corrugated metal home, its 5-acre Pinot Noir vineyard, and the surrounding land, they were able to afford it.

In May 2010, they went into escrow on the sprawling, 130-acre mountaintop property.

In 2012, Sophie and James got married on the mountain, the ceremony held looking east over Jack London State Historic Park. Five years and two children later, the Grays realized the only way they could afford to keep their retreat was if they made the land work. It was time, they decided, to turn their small-scale Pinot Noir and rosé wine production into a commercial enterprise.

Sophie took her innate understanding of design and visuals and paired it with a work ethic honed over years in the medical research field to build a highly engaged social media following for their small wine brand.

“I realized, ‘Oh my gosh, they love our story. They love watching us live our life up here. They are interested in the wine, and Instagram is helping us,’” Sophie says. “… What’s interesting is that when you’re allowed to get creative, you figure it out.”

Through videos and photos, Sophie shares her young family’s experiences at their mountaintop country home. Views from sunrise walks, hilltops peeking out from a sea of low-lying clouds, the Grays’ daughters playing in the pool on a summer afternoon, and decadent tablescapes from luxe wine club events pepper the winery’s Instagram account (@sophiejameswine). It’s a vision so appealing that it allows them to skirt the need for a traditional tasting room setting, instead relying on word of mouth, private wine club experiences on the mountain, and intimate tastings at hip Bay Area venues to draw new members to their entirely direct-to-consumer business.

Kelsey Sheofsky, an early member of Sophie James’ “Tribe,” as the wine club is known, owns a pop-up luxury tent company that has partnered with the wine brand in the past. And while she loves the wines, Sheofsky joined the club to be part of the community more than anything, she says.

“I think it’s more about the people and the other members and getting to go,” Sheofsky says. “I think the people that are part of the club are not so much caring about getting their wine delivery — it’s more like they’re caring about what am I getting invited to do to pick up my wine, what experiences am I going to be introduced to.”

Sheofksy’s Shelter Co. works with the winery to create mountaintop glamping experiences, providing luxury tents for wine club members to stay the night in — an idea Sophie dreamed up so her wine club members could witness the dramatic sunrise views she posts so regularly on Instagram.

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I didn't have have a background in wine. I didn't have a background in marketing or sales. I had a background in understanding the power of hard work and not being afraid of dreaming big and taking a chance in life – even if it meant having to completely reinvent myself and go through a very long period of time where I really struggled. I am proud of myself for not only being brave enough to launch a company that I previously had no experience in but that I did it after having babies and didn't fall into the trap of feeling cornered in my career when I was in my 20's – a career that didn't bring the best out in me. I’m proud that I was brave enough to take that leap of faith and listen to the universe calling me. Thank you all for helping me live my dream ?? @jamie_diger

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The picturesque landscape, the high-end chef dinners Sophie organizes for club members, the emphasis on interesting brand partnerships, and the fact that the business is run by a young, working mother all combine for an intoxicating brand story and marketing approach grasped by few other Wine Country labels. It’s one Sophie saw, most notably, being used by Sonoma Valley’s Scribe, which grew its own direct-to-consumer fanbase through a similar strategy revolving around members-only events and limited distribution.

“A lot of people in the city who are in the grind, basically, they’re dreaming about the future,” James says. “And they’re dreaming about a better life for themselves. … People come up and say, ‘Your story is inspiring us because we’re thinking of getting a place in the country and escaping this, and seeing you guys do this gives us confidence.’” When they took ownership, the property was run down — a metal box of a compound once owned by an adult film producer (a deep, green Jacuzzi bath in the master bedroom remains a lasting tribute the property’s previous owner).

The remodel was slow and methodical, with an attention to detail reflected in the way Sophie now runs her wine club. The paint on the building’s exterior was chosen based on a sample of the volcanic soil she brought to Benjamin Moore paints, because she wanted the home to blend in with the land. The now-mature landscaping they designed and planted themselves, purchased from the Sonoma County Jail’s plant nursery. And much of the home’s furniture was bought on a trip the couple took to Bali in July 2010 — the size, warmth, and colors of which blend well with the home’s vaulted ceilings and original brass and Lucite details.

Sophie was raised by parents who purchased and restored Bay Area Victorian homes, and that upbringing prepared her well for the project of renovating their mountaintop home. Over the course of the next two years, getting the property into a suitable living condition would become her full-time job.

With the retirement of Sophie James’ first winemaker, Jeff Baker, and with the wine brand’s expanding waitlist, in 2018 the Grays brought on winemaker Scott Schultz to help guide the business’ future. Whenever Sophie brings up the idea of getting their wine into local restaurants, Schultz — who owns his own Sonoma County label, Jolie-Laide, and has been in the industry since 2007— walks her back.

“You already have this club that people are, like, seething to be part of,” Schultz says. “It’s more like a lifestyle brand. People don’t see the wine on Instagram and say, ‘Oh, I have to have that wine.’ They see the house and the vineyard and the views and the top of the mountain. That’s what she’s creating so well. So it’s much more of a love of the story and the brand. But yes, of course, the wines can’t suck either.”

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Let the light in ✨??

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Membership to the Sophie James Tribe starts at $135 for a three-bottle quarterly release of Pinot Noir and a rosé of the same grape, and includes perks like invitations to mountaintop dinners and exclusive parties around the Bay Area. But with such limited production, access to the wine club is difficult, with demand outpacing current supply and Sophie dreaming of planting an additional 20 acres of vineyard on the property.

From 2012 until harvest 2017, Sophie James sold a portion of their grapes to Flowers Winery. But with production limited to their 5 planted acres, those sales meant their supply couldn’t keep up with the demand of those on the Sophie James waitlist. For harvest 2018, the Grays decided to keep the entire crop for their own label. That means that with the bottling of their 2018 Pinot Noir, they’ll finally have enough product to add new members.

For members of Sophie James’ Tribe, who range in age from their 20s to their 70s and live all over California, the exclusivity adds to the allure of the brand.

“Everyone wants an Instagrammable moment— not just necessarily a photo op, but something to do that’s cool and fun and exclusive, you know,” Sheofsky says. “How do you get to be part of that club? It’s definitely the future of that world. I think it makes so much sense.”

Sonoma County Winery Stars in ‘Wine Country’ and Popular TV Shows

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Between snarf-inducing laughs, it’s hard to dispute that actors Maya Rudolph, Amy Poehler, and Rachael Dratch steal the show in the new Netflix movie, “Wine Country.”

Another star shines brightly too: Healdsburg’s Jordan Winery.

No, the winery itself isn’t in the film—just about all the on-location filming took place in Napa (insert sad trombones here). But a bottle of Jordan’s Chardonnay is front and center in one of the most memorable scenes in the movie.

The scene happens early in the film. The group of six post-college friends meet up in Napa, check into a vacation rental for a long weekend, and immediately get their drink on. Fast-forward to that same evening and the women are out to dinner at a swanky Napa restaurant. They’re reminiscing. They’re cracking jokes. And they’re drinking bottles of Jordan Chardonnay.

The Poehler flick certainly isn’t Jordan’s debut on the silver screen—over the last few years, the winery has become a fixture in movies and on television. In 2019 alone, Jordan wines have been spotted on shows such as “Barry” and “Dead to Me.”

Back up to 2018 and the list includes movies such as “Gloria Bell” and “Book Club,” as well as a host of other television shows. (There’s even a crate of Jordan wine that makes an appearance in “Ironman 3.”)

Many brands pay tens of thousands of dollars per placement for this kind of exposure. Jordan, however, does not. According to spokeswoman Lisa Mattson, the winery doesn’t budget for that kind of marketing but instead gets the exposure from powerful fans in all the right places.

“We’re an established brand with a reputation that everyone knows,” she says. “We make two wines, we make them really well, and we’ve been around for more than 40 years.”

Still, Jordan knows how to work a room. (We’ve already told you about how the winery throws a mean Halloween party.)

This April, Jordan celebrated April Fool’s Day and the release of the 2015 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon with a clever high-end sneaker composed of cork, barrel parts, and other wine packaging materials. The wine represents the first vintage in Jordan history aged entirely in French oak barrels. In other words, it was a pretty big deal.

The footwear, dubbed the Air Jordan XV Retro 2015 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon Limited Edition, was created by Troy Cole, a Los Angeles-based artist, who is known as the “Picasso of Custom Cleats” and affiliated with of Kickasso Kustoms, a brand beloved by celebrities and NFL players alike.

Cole made six pairs of the shoe, with features such as wine cork midsoles, a detachable corkscrew with a Jordan French oak barrel stave handle, and a 2015 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon wine cork lace lock.

The shoes were packaged in small French oak barrels for the ultimate unboxing presentation.

(In a nod to the gag aspect of the sneaks, fictitious “features” also included egg-white fined lining for extra comfort and inserts marinated in coq au vin for 12 months to ensure the shoes always smell like a French restaurant.)

To maximize media buzz, Jordan published a video on April Fool’s Day, then held a release party for the wine in Los Angeles. At the party, Mattson and owner John Jordan gifted shoes to Los Angeles Lakers forward Kyle Kuzma, NFL defensive end Cam Jordan (who already has quite a history with the wine brand), and other celebrities. Tabloid darling Alexis Bellino, of “Real Housewives of Orange County,” made an appearance with her new boyfriend and the paparazzi went nuts.

After the party, Jordan sent another pair of the shoes to LeBron James (yes, that LeBron James) and Troy Aikman, former quarterback for the Dallas Cowboys. Josh Hart, a guard for the Lakers, requested a pair and Cole was expected to deliver it later this spring.

The takeaway from this recent buzz: Jordan slays at marketing. To follow the brand’s exploits, follow them on Twitter. Also, be sure to keep your eyes peeled for the Jordan name in the movies and on your TV/computer screen.

Want to take your marketing game to the next level? Check out these great ideas for increasing media coverage of your winery or hospitality brand.

The Best Old-School Bars in Petaluma

penngrove pub
A shot-and-beer kind of place, the friendly Penngrove Pub on Main Street has been slakeing the thirst of south county locals since 1907. It opens good and early: at 10 a.m., which is a pretty solid indicator of a very good bar, and it’s cash only — another marker. (They have an ATM for those short on bills.) When paired with an amicable bartender and good conversation, like the ones you have here, it’s a knockout combination. 10005 Main St., Penngrove.

From roadhouses to good old-fashioned neighborhood dives, these are the best Petaluma bars of a certain vintage. Perfect for when an ice-cold Coors is calling your name at 3 p.m. on a Tuesday. Click through the gallery for details.

 

An In-Depth Look at the Jenner Beach Slayings

Fish Head Beach, north of Jenner on Tuesday, May 20, 2014. Lindsay Cutshall and Jason Allen were shot to death in their sleeping bags on the beach in August, 2004. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)

Editor’s Note: Shaun Michael Gallon, a Forestville man and ex-felon, admitted in a Sonoma County courtroom Thursday to the 2004 murders of Lindsay Cutshall, 22, and Jason Allen, 26, bringing an end to the county’s most unsettling cold case in a generation. Here is an in-depth look at how this tragedy affected the family, locals and investigators, published in Sonoma Magazine in 2014 on the 10-year anniversary of the murders. 


The Pacific Ocean, silver-flecked by the sun, pulls at the slight curve of Fish Head Beach. It’s been a decade since a devout young couple from the Midwest were murdered on the gray sand just north of Jenner. Most days, a salted wind bites at the steep bluffs they would have had to descend to reach the shore.

Except for the startling beauty, there is no visible memorial to Jason Allen and Lindsay Cutshall, shot dead there in 2004 as they slept on the beach, their Bible nearby.

The crime stunned the region and captured national attention. It remains unsolved, the killer or killers still unknown.

“The ugly outside world visited us that night,” said Thomas Yeates, a 30-year resident of Jenner. He spoke this spring in the village of some 140 people, with seaside inns and vacation cottages, a state parks visitor center, a post office, and a gas station-deli.

Yeates, 59, had strolled Fish Head Beach recently with his girlfriend, who is new to the area and unaware of what happened there. While he cannot forget the crime, he did not want murder to cloud their day.

“I didn’t want to bring it up,” he said. “And I didn’t.”

Praying for the ‘enemy’

Lindsay Cutshall grew up in Fresno, Ohio, some 2,500 miles east of Jenner. It has a small post office and a few dozen homes scattered at a distance around some railroad tracks on the edge of Ohio’s Amish Country, where narrow roads carry horse-drawn carriages and wind past red barns and fields of hay and corn.

A “broken” man who would have it no other way lives there: Pastor Chris Cutshall, Lindsay’s father. God can use him fully now, the pastor says.

On the first Sunday in May, Cutshall, 59 and still wiry like the wrestler he was in high school, stood before 217 Fresno Bible Church worshippers — almost the entire congregation — from babes in arms to slow-moving seniors.

He no longer carries his slain daughter’s well-marked Bible when he preaches, as he did for several years; not every sermon can spring from the passages she highlighted. But Lindsay’s name and death — and Jason’s, too — now inhabit the vernacular of the evangelical Fresno Bible Church.

His sermon that day was titled, “The priority of love.” Near its conclusion, Cutshall said to his rapt parishioners: “Did you know that Kathy and I, we pray for the man who killed our kids?… He’s our enemy, but he’s a person in need.”

Faith in God is virtually inseparable from the lives and deaths of Lindsay Cutshall and Jason Allen, 22 and 26, respectively, when they were killed.

It is inseparable from how memories of them are held by their parents, whose deep religiosity promises them a reunion with their children and embraces even their killer. In some cases, it is inseparable from those who track the killers: law enforcement officers who hew to a strong Christianity or, in the murders’ wake, adopted a fervent new faith.

For all that, for how they have forged on, for the way the Fresno Bible Church that Lindsay grew up in has thrived since her death, for how, subsequently, disparate people found the same Christ they worship, the Cutshalls and Allens are grateful and awed.

“Yes, it was a horrible tragedy, an evil thing, but God can still take that and use that for good and for his glory,” said Delores Allen, 62, Jason’s mother, seated with her husband, Bob, in the sunroom of their home in Zeeland, Mich.

Outside the house, the lawns are wide and, for the most part, no fences separate them. The town is a flat landscape; the welcome sign at its border celebrates the championships brought home by the high school sports teams.

Jason grew up there, ensconced in the Baptist faith that has sustained his parents.

“We have the assurance that we know where they are and we know we will see them again,” Delores added. “I know that not all parents have that, and that would be unbearable. If I didn’t have that assurance that they are alive, I don’t know if I could deal with that.”

Driftwood that Jason collected, and also some retrieved from the beach where he was killed, accents the room. It comforts him, said Bob, 67. It reminds him both of Jason and of God’s will, of which he was informed soon after his son’s death.

Days after Jason was killed, Bob learned that not long before, Jason had fallen while rappelling from a 30-foot cliff and narrowly missed a formation of boulders. He went to the spot after his son’s death. Standing there, he said, he heard God’s voice:

“The Lord spoke to me really plainly and he said: ‘Yes, I saved Jason from dying on these rocks. And yes, I could have saved him from dying on that beach. But this is for my glory.’ ”

‘An uphill battle’

It was one of the North Coast’s most notorious slayings, garnering coast-to-coast media coverage, and it remains so 10 years later: the murder of a fresh-faced, young couple in love.

Lindsay and Jason, who met at a Bible college and planned to spend their lives ministering to Christian youth, were to marry Sept. 11, 2004. But they failed to show up Monday, Aug. 16, at their summer jobs as counselors at Rock-N-Water, a Christian youth adventure camp in California’s El Dorado County.

The couple had departed Friday night for a weekend trip; it is believed they planned it at the last minute after a full day of whitewater rafting with their youthful charges.

“I had just sent out the wedding invitations and I came back that (Monday) morning and got the call from camp: ‘Jason and Lindsay are missing,’ ” said Lindsay’s mother, Kathy Cutshall, 57, speaking after a hearty lunch of pulled pork in May in the Cutshalls’ cozy mobile home on the church grounds. “My heart dropped. I knew something was wrong.”

The Cutshalls flew out on Tuesday, the Allens on Wednesday. Both couples landed in Reno and drove to Placerville, where they would stay at the home of Craig Lomax, the camp’s owner and director.

Kathy called a friend of Lindsay’s who worked in the Ohio bank that had issued Lindsay’s credit card, and asked if he could help. Was it ethical? she asked.

“He said, ‘It doesn’t matter,’ ” she recalled.

The couple were traced through credit card receipts to San Francisco, where Lindsay had bought a miniature bottle of Tabasco sauce at Fisherman’s Wharf on Saturday. Late Wednesday, their bodies were found on Fish Head Beach, a mile north of Jenner. It was later concluded that they were killed between Saturday night and Sunday morning.

At some point, they had made entries in a sort of visitors’ journal that was kept in a small wooden hutch on the beach.

“The sun is going down in the horizon,” Lindsay wrote. “All I see is the beams shining on the cliff face. And I know that God is awsome (sic). I look around and I see his creation all around me.”

Jason wrote: “As I stir this Mac & Cheese I think to myself what a wonderful life. I’ve just spent two awsome (sic) days with my fiance Lindsay. Can life ever be so perfect. Only with a person who is so great. God gives me this privilege in life and He has given me a wonderful woman to enjoy it.”

They were found in sleeping clothes and separate sleeping bags. Each had been shot once in the head at close range with an uncommon rifle: a Marlin .45-caliber that uses ammunition also suited to handguns.

The crime was confounding, as was the scene.

Nothing, including their camping gear, appeared to have been stolen. Their car, a battered red Ford Tempo parked in a pullout spot on the side of Highway 1 in Jenner, was untouched. The couple had been in Sonoma County for a matter of hours — a photograph in a camera found with them showed they had been at the Golden Gate Bridge earlier Saturday — and knew nobody here. There was no sign of sexual assault. Lindsay was still wearing jewelry including a diamond cross necklace. The couple’s positions in death led investigators to conclude they had been asleep when shot. And the crime scene, in a remote location, had been exposed to the elements for four days.

“We were behind the eight-ball from the start. We had an uphill battle to fight,” Dave Thompson, a Sonoma County Sheriff’s detective who worked the investigation for two years, from its start, said in an interview in May.

Investigators plunged in, positive nonetheless. The five-person Violent Crimes Investigation (VCI) unit was among 25 detectives on the case.

“We had just come off a couple of other cases that were solved, the unit was clicking, and we were going to attack this one and hopefully come to the same conclusion,” said Thompson, now 44. “That was our mind frame: ‘We’ve been handed this thing. Let’s get going.’ Everyone was on their game.”

The vow

On Thursday, Aug. 19, at 6:30 a.m., a group of men approached Lomax’s house at the camp with terrible news.

Now, the recollections of precisely who was there vary. In Thompson’s memory, it was him, Lomax, an El Dorado Sheriff’s Department chaplain and Sonoma County Sheriff’s Sgt. Steve Freitas, then head of VCI. Freitas, now Sonoma County Sheriff, wanted Thompson there because of the detective’s deep Christian faith.

“I brought him basically to interpret the Christians for me,” said Freitas. He had no idea of how the murder case, merely one of 60 or more he has worked on, would change his life.

Chris Cutshall and Bob Allen, sensing what was to come, met them outside.

“It was like, ‘We’re the men of the family. We’re here to take the bad news first,’ ” Thompson said. “We gave it to them. It just confirmed what they had already suspected.”

Then the fathers told the mothers.

“It was almost unreal. They didn’t know anybody. How could they have gotten shot?” Delores said. “And on a beach. Who would have done that?”

“I said to Chris, ‘I can’t do this,’ ” Kathy recalled. “He said, ‘We might not have a choice.’ ”

Detectives began interviewing camp employees, in rooms at opposite ends of the house. The Cutshalls and Allens sat together at the dining table.

They prayed. They wept. They promised they would withstand the devil.

“The four of us made a vow,” Chris said. “That we weren’t going to let Satan have any victories in our lives. That was the vow, that we weren’t going to fall into sin and lose to the devil. He didn’t deserve it and we weren’t going to let it happen.”

A fruitless search

Hundreds of tips poured into the sheriff’s office in the first few days of the hunt for the killer. Detectives quickly broadened their search to outside Sonoma County, looking at similarities in unsolved murder cases in Humboldt County and Arizona to see if there were links.

A drifter — a Wisconsin native still on the road 10 years later — was named a person of interest. He took a polygraph exam and was cleared of involvement.

Coastal residents were shaken.

“Living out on the coast, away from big cities, it’s not something we’re used to,” said Nick Marlow, then a Duncans Mills resident. He purchased a gun soon after, he said, partly in response to the events.

“It was a shock … and resonated throughout the community,” said Marlow, 38, now of Occidental.

Tipsters in the coastal region reported an unfamiliar car with a distinctive decal on its window in the area at the time of the murders; detectives circulated hundreds of fliers.

The rare Marlin rifle was publicly identified as the murder weapon. Detectives went door to door in the county and elsewhere looking for that model of gun, eventually taking about 100 firearms to test.

The weeks wore on and theories abounded: that the couple had stumbled upon a drug deal or an abalone-poaching ring; that they had angered someone by evangelizing or otherwise speaking too openly about their faith. Chris was convinced that one man had stalked the couple.

More time passed. The state posted a $50,000 reward. It is still unclaimed.

Into the fold

As the investigation proceeded with no apparent progress, developments occurred on other fronts that the Cutshalls and Allens have come to see as being of equal importance: People touched by their childrens’ deaths began committing their lives to Jesus.

A future sheriff was one.

As Freitas met Chris Cutshall and Bob Allen to break the news, he also carried another weight. His marriage, strained by factors including his intense commitments at work, was in serious jeopardy.

That was secondary, though, as the moment came to tell the fathers what had happened to their children.

Freitas, 51, still shakes his head when he remembers Cutshall’s reaction.

“When I told those two men that their kids were dead, Chris Cutshall was overjoyed,” Freitas said. “I can remember this day vividly still. In my head, I thought, ‘This guy’s crazy or he’s on drugs.’ ”

On the return trip to Sonoma County, Freitas, taken aback by Cutshall’s response, quizzed Thompson, the stalwart Christian, about his beliefs.

“It didn’t make sense to me, but Dave was able to help explain it to me,” Freitas said. “(Chris) was so happy that his daughter was in heaven and there was no question in his mind that she was in heaven: ‘She’s in heaven and heaven’s a better place than this and I can’t wait to be there with her. Everything’s good.’ ”

For several years prior to the murders, Freitas, who grew up without religion and with no inclination toward it, had been experiencing occasional events that compelled him, he said, to wonder at the possibility of a God.

For example, he said, a congregation he had visited, as a Sheriff’s Department representative, had prayed for him and his wife, who were trying without luck to conceive. A month later she was pregnant.

Still, he said, “I had totally no faith in my life.”

But Cutshall’s reaction, he said, opened the door.

“It was just so … just so sure. He was on such solid ground with that,” Freitas said. “I don’t even know how to explain it. It was just a powerful, powerful thing. It made me very, very curious.”

At some point in those early, awful days, Cutshall recalled, he and Freitas sat in the kitchen and talked, about the case, about their families and about faith.

“He struggled with the whole idea of how a good God could allow innocent kids like ours to die,” said Cutshall, speaking after the worship service as his grandsons, Jackson, 6, and Lucas, 3, played at his feet.

“It really gave me the opportunity to talk about God’s goodness, right after we found out,” Cutshall said, “to witness to him of God’s goodness. I remember him just shaking his head.”

Those conversations resumed months later, after Freitas left VCI. And then there was a moment in 2005, at a dedication ceremony at Rock-N-Water camp of a plaque for Jason and Lindsay, that Freitas, chatting with Cutshall in the woods, said he accepted Jesus Christ as his Lord and Savior.

The murders, said the sheriff, “changed myself and my family.” It led to a faith, which his wife and sons now share, that he believes saved his marriage.

“There is no doubt in my mind that we would have absolutely gotten divorced, if we did not find faith,” said Freitas, who now worships at an evangelical church in Windsor.

The Cutshalls and Allens refer to events such as the sheriff’s discovery of faith — others have included a television journalist and a Brazilian woman who has adopted Cutshall as her surname — as “Lindsay and Jason fruit.”

“When I tell our story in testimony,” said Chris Cutshall, “I usually use the Freitas family as an example of God’s goodness. God causes all things to work together for good to those who love God.

“Out of this awfulness, this tragedy that was very personally experienced, we’ve seen God keep that promise.”

‘It has not gotten cold’

“It’s always in the back of my mind, just like it has been for the last 10 years,” said Sheriff’s Lt. Carlos Basurto, who oversees VCI now and was one of the first detectives to set foot on Fish Head Beach on that Wednesday in 2004.

Perhaps the brightest hope for a resolution to the case came in 2009. Joseph Henry Burgess, a fugitive wanted in connection with the 1972 slaying of a young Christian couple as they slept on a Vancouver Island beach, got into a gunfight in New Mexico in which he and a sheriff’s deputy were killed.

Sonoma County detectives flew to New Mexico to see if there were ties between the 1972 case and the killings of Jason and Lindsay. But Burgess’ DNA did not match that found on a beer bottle discovered at the scene of the Fish Head Beach murders.

That didn’t exclude Burgess as a suspect, but it meant he could not be connected to the slayings through any other means — by anything in a dozen 4-inch binders of tips, for example, or piles of boxes of investigative research.

“It was extremely frustrating, extremely frustrating,” Basurto said. Still, detectives continue to work the case.

“Although it’s considered a cold case, it has not gotten cold,” he said.

In February, detectives flew to the East Coast — Basurto won’t say where — to interview a “person of interest.” There have been no public developments as a result, but that angle remains open, Basurto said, and other persons of interest are also being explored.

Several viable tips come in monthly that detectives track down, and at times are solid enough to mobilize the unit.

“We’ve had so many different leads that were burning hot … that ended up flaming out,” Basurto said.

The case is, in some ways, a sore point.

“It seems like a black eye, on my tenure, at least, in VCI,” Thompson said.

But the Christian in him, as well as the veteran law enforcement officer, holds out a strong hope.

“One of these days, there’ll be some sort of break,” Thompson said. “I know there are enough people still working on it, still thinking about it and still praying about it.”

When it comes to the possibility that one day they might know who killed their children, “closure” is not a word that the Allens and Cutshalls use. They concede an interest in the killer’s capture — she would like to ask him why, Delores said. Chris said he would like to have him ask their forgiveness. But in conversation, those concerns seem overshadowed by their commitment to forgiveness and their certainty that the killer will one day face a superior judgment.

“We believe in the justice system, too, and we know there are consequences to sin and we would like to see the person caught,” Delores said

“And brought to justice,” added Bob.

“And brought to justice,” echoed Delores. “But it would be a miserable life if we were so absorbed in anger and bitterness that we lost our joy and we don’t want anybody to have that power over us, to take joy from our lives. That’s why we give it to the Lord, knowing he is the final judge.”

Chris Cutshall said he also pities the killer, foretelling for him a stern fate.

“That guy doesn’t have to face the pitiful anger of a little human being, of a father,” he said. “He has to face the wrath of God. And knowing scripture and believing scripture as I do, that’s an awful thing. I wouldn’t wish that even on him.”

Grieving and healing

The mothers could not enter their childrens’ bedrooms for several years after the murders.

For nearly three years, Chris Cutshall would periodically find himself flat on the floor, sobbing.

Bob Allen thinks of hunting with his son, and the loss hits him in his gut.

“Jason was an excellent shot,” he said with pride.

For all the prayers, for all the faith, the pain still arrives — Mother’s Day, birthdays, holidays. On any day.

A week before being interviewed in early May, Kathy Cutshall, out of the blue, was weeping.

“It’s almost like a homesickness,” she said.

There still are days when she goes to her part-time job in a jewelry store and cannot stay.

Delores still finds herself crying at times when she comes across things that belonged to Jason.

“They are not unaffected,” said Janna Kuiphof, 36, a childhood friend of Jason’s in Zeeland who is still close to the Allens, and who has come to know the Cutshalls. “There still is a deep and profound sense of loss and sadness because Jason and Lindsay not being here has left a noticeable hole.”

But the families have survived almost unimaginable loss. Indeed, they appear to have thrived.

They have been helped by the almost certain knowledge that their children were sleeping when they were shot.

And for the Cutshalls, in particular, the fact that no evidence of sexual assault was detected has softened the tragedy.

“There were some things that I think God knew I couldn’t handle. And one was if there had been torture,” Kathy said. “Or if I knew they had pain. And he (God) took care of that.”

“It would have been much worse,” Chris added, his voice far flatter than usual. “It would have been much harder. I mean as bad as it is: our daughter got shot in the head, and our son, basically. Awful. But it could have been worse. And I’ve always been thankful for that.”

The arrival of grandchilden has also played a large role in the recovery of both families, each of which has other children. But indisputably, it is their faith — and the belief that positives have sprung from the tragedy — that have steered them to a place where peace of mind and heart is possible.

“There is a lot of good that has come, and they’re in a wonderful place, and if I didn’t know or feel that, it would be quite different,” Kathy said. She acknowledges, though, that to come to that point took years.

“At the beginning, when I’d hear people say that, I used to want to just shake them,” she said. “But I’d think, ‘No, I wouldn’t want anybody to know that kind of deep pain.’ ”

Delores and Bob say the unexpected ability to live without rage at the killer has been a blessing.

“The more the anger builds, the more it tears you down,” Bob said. “We were able to give that anger to the Lord, so we’re not angry.”

“We don’t hold any anger or bitterness to this person. We know that this person is a lost soul,” Delores added. “And Jason and Lindsay dedicated their lives to bringing good news to those people who are lost.”

Cutshall has flourished as a pastor, the congregation is more solid than it was before the killings, and his power as a Christian minister has grown.

“We are a faith family,” he said. “There’s a lot of love there and that has increased quite a bit since Lindsay died. It has deepened our love and compassion for each other.”

He added, “I think it’s deepened the church’s respect for me. It gave me clout. Before I would get, every once in a while, ‘You don’t understand. You haven’t gone through what I’ve been through.’ I don’t get that anymore.”

He sees God’s hand at play in “selecting” the families who were to go through their ordeal.

“We were both theologically, spiritually on the same page from the very beginning. We were ready. That’s always struck me,” he said. “It’s almost like we were called to this and God knew what he was doing, so that God could be glorified and Satan couldn’t win in our lives.”

Still, Cutshall, who wears a ring of his daughter’s on the little finger of his right hand, doesn’t like to visit the gravesite near Fresno where Jason and Lindsay’s cremated remains are buried together — as if they had married — in the same casket.

Faith, he said, is not, and should not be, an exemption from sorrow.

“The biggest fear I’ve had over the years is that I wouldn’t grieve over her any longer,” Cutshall said. “She’s worth it. She’s worthy. I’m her father. This is her mother. We feel kind of fearful to get to that place where we wouldn’t anymore. We don’t break into tears all the time anymore. But we still grieve.”

 

20 Sonoma Wineries and Tasting Rooms Open After 5 p.m.

Tasting wine at Adobe Road Winery in downtown Petaluma. (Paige Green)

Elsewhere in the world, people say, “It’s 5 o’clock somewhere,” when they imbibe during the day. In Wine Country, where most tasting rooms close at or before 5 p.m, it can sometimes feel as if day-drinking is the only option. Scattered throughout Sonoma County, there are a handful of spots where you can taste wine into the evening, but finding them takes a bit of research. We’ve rounded up 21 tasting rooms and wine bars offering wine tastings until at least 6 p.m. Click through the gallery for details. 

Sonoma County Restaurant News: Gaia’s Garden Expands Menu, Pamposh Closing

Here’s the latest on Santa Rosa’s restaurant scene… 

New menu at Gaia’s Garden: The spot where we first tried the Impossible Burger has expanded its menu to include plated vegan dishes like pasta primavera, sweet and sour tofu, paprika tofu with dumplings, red curry and jerk tofu. The dishes are all between $8.95 and $14.95. The self-serve hot and cold bar will remain along with sandwiches and tacos. The plated meals are available Monday through Friday. The restaurant is open daily. 1899 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa., gaiasgardenonline.com.

Pamposh Closing: After 15 years, Bennett Valley Indian restaurant Pamposh will serve its last naan on May 15. Owner Mona Dhar says it’s been a good run, but she’s ready to retire from the restaurant biz. “Pamposh is my baby and I will miss it terribly,” she says. We will miss the charming spot where we first fell in love with their chicken in apricot sauce.

New Sonoma Restaurants and Bars You Need to Check Out

The once-sleepy Sonoma is bursting with new restaurants ranging from affordable burgers, ice cream and coffee to high-end Mediterranean. Check out what’s now open and ready to serve you. Click through the gallery for details. 

Meet the Makers: Custom Bike Builders in Sonoma and Napa

Tom Fitzgerald making a bike frame in his garage/workshop

Editor’s Note: Bruce Gordon, a master maker of hand-built bicycle frames and designer of tires credited for inspiring new trends for recreational cycling worldwide, died in Petaluma June 7, 2019. He was 71. Read about Gordon, and fellow local bike builders, in this article published by Sonoma Magazine in 2018. 


Hundreds of miles of uncrowded roads and trails traversing windblown coastal blues, undulating pastures and vineyards, and steep mountains shrouded in redwoods have long drawn cyclists to Sonoma County.

Over the years, these athletes have forged one of the most visible groups in local outdoor recreation, supporting numerous clubs and teams, shops stretching from Cloverdale to Petaluma, and a list of events that packs the county’s calendar from February to November.

But bikes aren’t just ridden in Sonoma; they’re also made here.

The county harbors some of the nation’s preeminent independent bicycle-frame builders. From backyard workshops and hidden warehouses, these craftsmen transform steel, aluminum, or titanium tubes into high-performance machines and works of art for clients down the street or halfway around the world. Still other local businesses design and build some of the parts that make them move.

Together, Sonoma’s frame builders and component manufacturers add to a legacy of bicycle innovation that reaches back decades and crosses county lines into Napa, San Francisco, and Alameda — and especially Marin.

There, as the story goes, mountain biking was born on the flanks of Mount Tamalpais in the mid’ s when a few renegade types outfitted their heavy old cruisers with bigger tires and better brakes to bomb down its rocky slopes.

In the ensuing years, many big names in bike frames developed nearby: Salsa, Otis Guy, Ibis, Breezer, Gary Fisher. But more recently, the balance of power has shifted north, with Sonoma now home to renowned builders Soulcraft, SyCip Designs, and Bruce Gordon Cycles (recently retired), as well as the popular outfitter Yuba Bikes. Just this year, Marin Mountain Bikes relocated from Novato to Petaluma.

Like many subcultures, frame-building is a tight-knit world where most people know each other. In some cases they have even learned from one another or worked side by side. Each strives to make bikes and frames as distinctive as they are durable, often custom-crafted for a particular individual.

That’s the beauty of bikes built from the ground up: fit and machined and welded over many hours; backed by years of training, testing, and retooling; designed for speed, strength, and safety; and bearing the mark of their maker.

While custom cycles cost a lot to produce (reflected by price tags in the thousands), the artisans who make them – often with a dog at their feet or a beer within reach — are both a throwback to a simpler time and a quintessential part of modern Sonoma County.

Bike builder Bruce Gordon
Bike builder Bruce Gordon

BRUCE GORDON, Bruce Gordon Cycles, Petaluma

For a long time, anyone curious about Sonoma County frame-building found their way to Bruce Gordon and his workshop-showroom in downtown Petaluma. Over a storied 47-year career, the internationally known craftsman mentored or supported many others, including Petaluma’s Sean Walling, built some of the best frames the industry has to offer, and designed a full range of high-end bicycle-touring components and accessories that went on to live a life of their own.

But by last year he felt ready to retire, and offered up for sale his immense collection of tools, parts – and lightly used bikes dating to the early 1970s. While Gordon, 70, says he’ll continue selling his famous Rock ’n’ Road tires from his home, more importantly he hopes to find a buyer for the Bruce Gordon Cycles name. “My intellectual property is all for sale,” he says. “The bikes, the racks, the toe clips, the brakes, everything that I made is for sale.” Whatever happens, he hopes custom frame-building will live on for decades more, as an antidote to mass production for those who seek it.

Tom Fitzgerald making a bike frame in his garage/workshop

JOHN FITZGERALD, Fitz Cyclez, Santa Rosa

From his garage workshop in Santa Rosa’s historic St. Rose neighborhood, John Fitzgerald builds frames that embody the handmade ethic.

They’re retro, distinctive, custom-fit, and generally unlike anything you’d find in a standard bike shop. He works only in lugged steel, a labor-intensive frame type that involves mating steel tubes via socket-like sleeves, called lugs.

This type of frame was prized for its performance and strength throughout the cycling boom of the 1960s and ’70s, but was eventually supplanted by cheaper welded-steel and aluminum and lighter titanium and carbon fiber.

Fitzgerald’s creations honor a century-old French sport called randonneuring, which involves long-distance, self-supported rides. He includes provisions for fenders, multiple racks (which he also builds), lights, and “dynamo” electricity-generating hubs so customers can outfit their rides for days on the road.

“The old-school flavor appeals to me,” says Fitzgerald, 46, a stay-at-home dad who has been building frames for 15 years and completes about 10 a year. “They’re extremely functional, beautiful, and useful bikes that you can really do anything with.”

Favorite local rides: Willow Creek, Old Cazadero, and Hood Mountain.

Jeremy Sycip, builder of custom bikes with some of his bikes and an exploded view of a bike

JEREMY SYCIP, Sycip Designs, Santa Rosa

When he started in San Francisco with his artist brother Jay, Jeremy Sycip was the new kid on the Bay Area bike-building scene. “We were both into bike riding, and I worked at a bike shop part time,” says Sycip, who had himself just finished his first year of art school. “I wanted to work with my hands. I wanted to produce something that’s functional, not just design something on paper.” Today, more than 25 years later, Sycip, 47, is one of the scene’s most widely known names.

In 2016, he moved his operation from a 2,500-square-foot shop in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square, where he operated for 12 years with six employees, to a smaller, solo operation in a backyard workshop. There, Sycip turns out custom mountain, road, cross, cargo, and commuter bikes in steel, aluminum, and titanium.

“When I meet people, I basically size them up and build them what they want,” says Sycip, who celebrated his silver anniversary last year with a limited run of frames hand-painted by his brother — just like in the early days. “Everything is built one at a time. It’s not like a production shop at all.”

Favorite local rides from his home in East Santa Rosa: Trione-Annadel State Park (especially both Burma trails and Lawndale Trail to Schultz Trail loop, all on a mountain bike); Hood Mountain to Pythian Road and back home (gravel/cyclocross bike); North Sonoma Mountain Regional Park to Jack London State Historic Park and back home (gravel/cyclocross bike); and Cavedale Road to Trinity Road and back home (road bike).

Bicycle parts manufacturer White Industries

WHITE INDUSTRIES, Petaluma

White Industries manufactures many of the parts and components that turn bare frames into functioning bikes. That includes hubs, at the center of the wheel, with ball bearings rotating around a center axle, and freewheels that allow the gears on the rear wheel to engage in one direction and spin in the other — two parts for which the ever-evolving company is best known. Doug White, 72, a machinist by trade, founded the company in a West Marin garage in 1978.

Today it’s one of the nation’s only domestic manufacturers of bicycle components, and its 17 employees — including Doug’s son Alec, the chief product officer — work from a 15,000-square-foot warehouse fittingly located a block from the heart of Petaluma’s burgeoning “Maker Alley.” Says Alec, “Our reputation sells a lot of our products for us. As long as we are building to that level of quality, people will tend to trust what we do and buy our products over others.”

Favorite local rides: Helen Putnam Regional Park, Trione-Annadel State Park (especially both Burma trails, Rough-Go Trail, and Spring Creek Trail), and Sebastopol to Annadel via the Joe Rodota Trail. On Trione-Annadel: “Really, I just like it all there.”

SEAN WALLING, Soulcraft, Petaluma

Petaluma’s Sean Walling takes a singular approach to bicycle design with his well regarded Soulcraft brand. He used to offer custom bikes, but this year will transition to handcrafting “stock” frames with set sizes and consistent geometries, built out with standard component sets and limited options. It’s a natural fit, as the self-described purist has long offered preset, customizable models like the popular “Dirtbomb,” a road/dirt hybrid ready to ride from home to the trails of Trione-Annadel State Park.

Over the course of 30 years and more than 1,000 frames, Walling, 48, has learned that “when you start talking ‘custom’ to some people, there can be a little anxiety over all the choices.” From his large backyard workshop he hopes to streamline the process by building stock high-performance bikes, complete from top to bottom. “I’ve become known as the guy who makes nice bikes, of good quality and not flashy,” he says. “You’re coming to me because I know how to build frames.”

Favorite local rides: Petaluma’s Chileno Valley loop, or the shorter alternate Chileno/Wilson Hill/Hicks Valley/D Street/San Antonio/I Street.

SMART ride: “Over the summer we did a ride from town to Olema, up Bolinas Ridge on the dirt to the top of Mount Tamalpais, down the dirt on Railroad Grade to Mill Valley, then on the bike path back to San Rafael for burritos before we hopped on the train to come home. And there’s beer on the train!”

Curtis Inglis, in his workshop and with his dog Coco

CURT INGLIS, Retrotec, Napa

Through his Retrotec line of mountain, road, and hybrid “cyclocross” and “gravel” bikes, Napa-based Curt Inglis blends the sweeping lines of classic beach cruisers with modern geometries and high-performance parts.

Retrotec’s frame models — which can be equipped for track, trail, or anywhere in between — include the fanciful “Classic,” resembling a 50-year-old Schwinn, and the slightly more conservative yet no less curvaceous “Twin,” Inglis’ best-seller. They’re some of the most eye-catching and inspired bikes you’ll see anywhere.

For traditionalists, Inglis, 49, also builds standard, straight-tubed bikes under the Inglis Cycles name. He produces a combined 35 to 40 frames a year for buyers as far away as Japan and Switzerland.

“As a custom builder, I just need to know what the customer wants,” he says.

Yuba Bikes, makers of big cargo bikes

YUBA BIKES, Cotati

If you’re looking to haul groceries, toddlers, or a cooler full of craft beer across town, Yuba wants to help. The Cotati-based company has emerged as a leading maker of cargo bikes, beefy rides built for comfort and utility, not speed. Yuba has been migrating north since its 2007 founding in Sausalito and moved its headquarters and seven Sonoma County employees up from Petaluma about a year ago. (Manufacturing takes place in China and Taiwan.)

The company continues to grow rapidly, with plans to launch two additional electric-powered bikes later this year. They’ll join Yuba’s flagship model, the $4,500 Spicy Curry Bosch, with a motor built for steep hills and long-distance rides. “Young families are wanting to start to move around a little bit differently,” says operations manager Marc Azevedo. “We’re providing a solution for folks who want to get out of the car.” Local dealers include the Trek store in Santa Rosa and Mike’s Bikes in Petaluma.

Favorite local rides with kids: Doyle Park (Santa Rosa) to Trione-Annadel State Park (Spring Creek Trail to Canyon Trail); Doyle Park to Children’s Museum of Sonoma County via Prince Memorial Greenway and SMART Trail.

e*thirteen, Petaluma

It has offices in Germany and San Luis Obispo and its manufacturing takes place in Taiwan, but bicycle component producer e*thirteen considers the North Bay home, says marketing and design guru Connor Bondlow. The $15 million company, now entering its 17th year and still growing, is headquartered in a nondescript east Petaluma business park.

“It’s good to have a presence in the Bay Area,” says Bondlow. “It’s such a hub for the cycling world.”

Over the years the company has offered a range of high-end aluminum and carbon-fiber components for downhill-oriented mountain-bike riding, including hubs, wheels, cassettes, chain guides, and suspension systems. Its latest hot seller is a burly, ultra-durable, maximum-traction tire for “enduro” downhill racing. “Demand is just insatiable,” Bondlow says.

Favorite local rides: Anywhere in Trione-Annadel State Park.

How to Do a Girls Getaway in Sonoma a la Amy Poehler’s ‘Wine Country’ Movie

Celebrating 41 years, the Wine Road Barrel tasting weekends offer the opportunity to sample wines straight from the barrel, talk to winemakers and explore the beautiful Alexander, Dry Creek and Russian River Valleys. (Photo Will Bucquoy/For the Press Democrat)

Wine Country has all the necessary ingredients for a girlfriends’ getaway: charming B&Bs and luxury resorts, delicious farm-to-table food, chic boutiques, a beautiful landscape, and lots and lots of wine. Long a destination for bachelorette parties, bff birthday bashes and other female feasts, the region has now been immortalized as a gal-pals’ dream retreat in Amy Poehler’s “Wine Country” movie, which premieres Friday, May 10, on Netflix.

Inspired by a real-life birthday trip to Wine Country, Poehler’s comedy flick depicts female friendship against the backdrop of a Napa Valley birthday celebration or, in our dining editor Heather Irwin’s words: “through the lens of a Chardonnay bottle.” Like many visitors to Wine Country, the characters in the movie like to drink wine – lots of it – but aren’t necessarily that interested in vintage, bouquet, and mouthfeel. All they want is to enjoy some white, red and pink wine and have a good time.

While “Wine Country” is set in Napa, the birthday celebration that inspired the movie partly took place in Sonoma County. We may be biased, of course, but if you have to choose between the two, Sonoma makes for a much better girlfriends’ getaway than the Disneyland of wine tasting: it’s more low-key than its heavily-hyped neighbor, it’s less crowded (Sonoma is more than double the size of Napa), and the wine is just as good (if not better).

If watching “Wine Country” makes you dream about your own wine-infused weekend with the girls, click through the gallery for inspiration.