Page 45 – Sonoma Magazine

9 Sonoma Wineries With Spectacular Views

August 2024

By Linda Murphy

To appeal to impromptu palates, Kunde Family Winery created The Daily Tour & Tasting. At $25 per person, offered seven days a week at 11 a.m., it includes a tour of Kunde’s 32,000 square foot cave and a peek at its 5,000 aging barrels. The tour is followed by a tasting of six wines only available at the winery or for wine club members’ consumption. The wines are paired with a cheese and charcuterie board.

The Sonoma tasting room talk these days is all about offering visitors “elevated experiences:” personalized service, food pairings, barrel tastings, vineyard hikes, live music and special bottles pulled from the cellar.

Yet it doesn’t get any more elevated than sampling wine from terraces perched above valley floors, treetops, buildings and vineyards, where bird’s eye views allow you to drink in the area’s natural beauty and soul-soothing vibe.

This is only theory, yet one broadly embraced: Wines taste remarkably better and more interesting at higher elevations, where the air is fresh and the views invigorating. We first eat with our eyes, and these Sonoma wineries have eye-popping views that make the vino go down so very easily.

Fort Ross Vineyard & Winery

South Africa natives Linda and Lester Schwartz took the high-risk/high-reward route in planting Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinotage grapes on their chilly, wind-whipped property near Jenner, in what is now the Fort Ross-Seaview AVA. Their vineyard blocks are just 3 miles from the Pacific Ocean, thought by many to be too cold to properly ripen wine grapes. They’ve proven naysayers wrong.

The tasting room expanded operations to five days a week (Friday through Tuesday), with wine flights and food pairings ($85). The views are of the vineyards, of course, but also the ocean in the distance, sometimes swirling fog and always forests and meadows.

Scents of salt air and forest floor fill the air and often appear in the wines (made by Jeff Pisoni), which are precise, high-acid and age-worthy. The wines aren’t robust, but rather lean and elegant. And if you think you won’t like South African-grown Pinotage — a cross of Pinot Noir and Cinsault — the Fort Ross version might change your mind.

15725 Meyers Grade Road, Jenner, 707-847-3460, fortrossvineyard.com

The Fort Ross Winery and Vineyard, owned by Lester and Linda Schwartz, overlooks the Pacific Ocean and the rolling timber strewn hills of northwestern Sonoma County on Myers Grade. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat) — The Fort Ross Winery and Vineyard, owned by Lester and Linda Schwartz, overlooks the Pacific Ocean and the rolling timber strewn hills of northwestern Sonoma County on Meyers Grade. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)

Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery

Come for winemaker Theresa Heredia’s remarkable, cool-climate Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs from Russian River Valley and the Sonoma Coast — many from single vineyards — and stay for the relaxing atmosphere of the outdoor terrace as you enjoy the Elevation Tasting ($55), accompanied by cheeses, nuts and dried fruits.

The winery sits atop a ridge overlooking the Russian River, on Westside Road between Healdsburg and Forestville, and the view is of a vast expanse of redwoods, firs, oaks and madrones. Indoor tastings are almost as visually rewarding, with floor-to-ceiling windows affording a similar view as the terrace, and with a mix of tables, banquettes and comfy couches to sit on while you savor.

10701 Westside Road, Healdsburg, 707-473-2909, garyfarrellwinery.com

The outdoor terrace at Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery in Healdsburg. (Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery) — Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery in Healdsburg sits atop a ridge overlooking the Russian River, on Westside Road between Healdsburg and Forestville, and the view from the terrace is of a vast expanse of redwoods, firs, oaks and madrones. (Gary Farrell Vineyards Winery)

Hanzell Vineyards

Ambassador to Italy James D. Zellerbach founded this winery in 1953, entertaining the then-wild notion that Chardonnay and Pinot Noir could be successfully grown and vinified into elegant, Burgundy-style wines on hillsides high above the town of Sonoma. Zellerbach’s vision proved 20/20, as Hanzell (now owned by the publicity-shy de Brye family) is widely admired for its lean, crisp, age-worthy wines that resemble white and red Burgundy wines.

The Hanzell Tasting Experience ($90) takes place overlooking the Ambassador’s 1953 vineyard block — certified organic — on one of Hanzell’s outdoor platforms. On clear days, San Francisco Bay can be seen from the 900-foot-elevation estate; on the ground, sheep, pigs and chickens roam the sustainably farmed property.

18596 Lomita Ave., Sonoma, 707-996-3860, hanzell.com

Iron Horse Vineyards

It’s all bubble, bubble, no toil or trouble at this iconic Sebastopol sparkling-wine-centric winery. It has an east-facing view of its vineyards and, on clear days, all the way to the Mayacamas mountain range and Mt. St. Helena. Fog seeps into this Green Valley of Russian River Valley site morning and evening, refreshing the grapes, yet the days can be gloriously sunny for sipping Champagne-quality bubblies and taking in the visuals.

As outstanding as the sparkling wines are (still Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, too), tastings ($35) are casual, non-fussy and staged from a redwood barn-style building (spitting tasted wines down the hill to stay sober is not only OK, but encouraged). Seated tastings in a gazebo are offered on weekends from May 25 to Sept. 1 ($85).

9786 Ross Station Road, Sebastopol, 707-887-1507, ironhorsevineyards.com

For sweeping views of Sonoma Valley and San Francisco Bay, make the drive to Kamen Estate’s 1,200-foot-elevation vineyard in the Moon Mountain District. (Kamen Estate Wines)

Kamen Estate Wines

Winery owner and screenwriter Robert Kamen (“The Karate Kid,” “Transporter”) has a tasting room in downtown Sonoma. But for a breathtaking view and a breath of fresh air, make the drive (with a reservation, of course) to his 1,200-foot-elevation vineyard in the Moon Mountain District.

Sweeping views of Sonoma Valley and San Francisco Bay at the Sky Deck experience ($150) are accompanied by Kamen’s top-tier Sauvignon Blancs, Bordeaux-style reds and Syrahs, paired with cheeses. A tour of the certified organic vineyard before the private tasting sets the tone for enjoying the wines. The address and directions for the Sky Deck experience are provided at the time reservations are made.

Sonoma tasting room: 111B East Napa St., Sonoma, 707-938-7292, kamenwines.com

Kunde Family Winery

Seated tastings in the Kinneybrook Room and on the large, well-spaced patio are a treat at this revered Sonoma Valley winery, operated by the Kundes for more than a century (vines were first planted on the now-1,850-acre ranch in 1879).

Fourth- and fifth-generation family members continue to sustainably farm the land and produce the wide range of wines on the menu. The most mesmerizing way to gauge their commitment is to enjoy the two-hour Mountain Top Tasting ($100), which includes reserve-tier and tasting room-exclusive wines matched with cheeses and charcuterie.

The experience begins with a walk through a demonstration vineyard, continues with a motor coach ride through the estate vineyards and hits its peak at the tasting deck, at 1,400 feet. On a quiet morning, one can almost hear an acorn drop on the valley floor below or a conversation between cyclists pedaling on Highway 12. By midmorning, the hustle and bustle of harvest can be seen and heard, yet it’s easy to tune out the sound and bask in the wines and grand views of Sonoma Valley.

9825 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-833-5501, kunde.com

Robert Young Estate Winery

In 1935, Robert Young — at 16 — inherited his family’s ranch and eventually began replacing prune-plum trees with wine grapes. In 1963, Robert cultivated Cabernet Sauvignon and followed that with Chardonnay a few years later. His son, Fred, and his siblings founded Robert Young Estate Winery in 1997. Over time, the family modernized the tasting experience, from pouring the wines in an old barn to welcoming guests to the Scion House, built in 2018 atop a hillside, 800 feet above the valley floor with panoramic views of Alexander Valley.

The tasting menu includes $40-$70 options, with cheese and charcuterie boards available. The Vineyard Experience ($125), which includes a locally-sourced lunch (for an extra $25), is held under an ancient oak tree at the Bob’s Burnpile Block – Bob being founder Robert Young. Guests can see what Bob saw back in the day.

5102 Red Winery Road, Geyserville, 707-431-4811, ryew.com

Sbragia Family Vineyards

From its site just below Lake Sonoma, the Sbragia tasting room has fantastic views of Dry Creek Valley, from the north looking down the valley. Visitors can see terraced hillside vineyards of Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah grown in rust-colored soils and framed by oak and fir trees, and the occasional decorative palms planted on vintners’ properties.

Sonoma native Ed Sbragia, who made Napa Valley’s Beringer Vineyards one of America’s finest producers of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, established this winery with his family in 2006. Now, he and winemaker son Adam make Cabernet and Chardonnay, as well as classic Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel, the latter grape planted by Ed’s father, Gino, in the 1950s. Take a seat on the terrace, take in the scenery and taste the wines with cheeses and charcuterie ($25-$30).

9990 Dry Creek Road, Geyserville, 707-473-2992, sbragia.com

Stonestreet Estate Vineyards

Most tastings at this Alexander Valley winery take place at the visitor center on the valley floor, at the junction of Alexander Valley Road and Highway 128. There, guests sample wines made from the 5,500-acre Stonestreet Mountain Estate on Black Mountain, with vines planted at elevations of 400 to 2,400 feet.

The only way to experience the estate’s remarkable views of Alexander Valley and beyond, grapevines growing in myriad soil types and exposures, and occasional wildlife sightings is to take the Stonestreet Mountain Excursion. The price is as lofty as the elevation of the estate — at $200 per person, plus add-ons like a $60 lunch and a $150 caviar and Blanc de Blanc pairing for two. Yet the experience is unrivaled for those who truly want to learn, see and taste the impact mountain viticulture has on wine styles, complexity and age-ability.

The three-hour, privately guided driving tour and tasting shows off the many Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard blocks, with evocative names such as Cougar Ridge, Bear Point, Rockfall and Monolith, that are the backbone of some of Jackson Family Wines’ finest bottlings.

7111 Highway 128, Healdsburg, 707-433-9463, stonestreetwines.com

Maci Martell contributed to this article.

Eat for the Goats at Sebastopol’s Goatlandia Kitchen

August 2024

By Heather Irwin

Plant-based dishes from Goatlandia Kitchen in Sebastopol. (Courtesy of Andie Thornton)

After more than a year of anticipation, Goatlandia founder Deborah Blum’s plant-based kitchen and restaurant in Sebastopol has finally opened to the public.

Located in the former Bar B Que Smokehouse Bistro (611 Laguna Parkway), Blum and her team have been cooking and catering out of the kitchen for months. They officially began dinner service in mid-July.

“Our goal is to create a welcoming space where people can enjoy delicious, healthy food while knowing that every bite supports a healthy community as well as animals in need,” said Blum in an opening announcement.

Sebastopol vegan — Plant-based dishes from Goatlandia Kitchen in Sebastopol. (Photo: Andie Thornton)

The wide-ranging Goatlandia Kitchen menu includes small bites, salads, plant-based cheeses and dip boards, entrees and sweets. Call us intrigued by dishes like fried arancini with spicy tomato sauce ($15), mushroom ceviche with leche de tigre ($13), esquite salad with charred corn, heirloom tomatoes and chili lime dressing ($18), a Mediterranean Board with cashew cream, beet hummus, muhammara and fresh naan ($22), crispy rice cakes with greens and miso butter ($24), a polenta bowl with sauteed ratatouille ($22) and carrot cake with cream cheese filling ($13). Many dishes are gluten-free and all are vegan; picky kids can have buttered pasta, hummus and fruit.

Prior to her nonprofit work, Blum was a professional chef who turned her cooking efforts to plant-based meals to promote vegan cuisine, animal welfare and healthy eating. In 2016, she began a catering kitchen for the nonprofit to supplement traditional fundraising.

“What started as a revenue source for us became advocacy,” Blum said after taking over the Sebastopol kitchen in 2022. “I love the notion of changing a meat-based barbecue restaurant into a compassionate kitchen.”

The seasonal menu is driven by locally sourced produce from FEED Sonoma and Little Saint Farm.

Indoor and outdoor dining on their dog-friendly patio is available from 5 to 9:30 p.m. Thursday and Friday and 4 to 9:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Wine and beer are available.

All proceeds from the kitchen support Goatlandia’s farm animal rescue work, community outreach and education. More information at goatlandia.org/goatlandiakitchen.

Celebrity Chef To Host Pop-up Pizza Party at Sebastopol’s Gold Ridge Farms

August 2024

By Heather Irwin

New York, NY – March 30, 2023: J Vineyards presents a media dinner featuring chefs Preeti Mistry, Aaron Meneghelli, and Forest Kellog at the James Beard House in Greenwich Village. Photos by Clay Williams. © Clay Williams / http://claywilliamsphoto.com

Celebrity chef, author and speaker Preeti Mistry will host a pop-up pizza party at Gold Ridge Organic Farms in Sebastopol from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday, Aug. 17. The farm’s chef, Seamus McCaffrey, will join Mistry to create three unique plant-based, wood-fired pizzas using local mozzarella, estate olive oil, fresh tomatoes, fire-roasted eggplant and chaat masala.

Included in the $48 meal price is an apple slaw made with Gold Ridge apples, ginger, turmeric and lemon and Straus Family Creamery ice cream (vegan option also available) topped with summery berries or Indian-inspired Cracker Jacks with Gold Ridge’s olive oil. Reservations are highly encouraged. Details at goldridgeorganicfarms.com/events.

If you’re an apple fan, the farm has over 75 heirloom varieties grown on-site, many saved from extinction by passionate growers. Experience a guided orchard walk overlooking the 88-acre property, apple tasting and pairing with local cheeses (served with freshly pressed apple juice) and a souvenir bag of apples Aug. 23 through Oct. 19. Reservations are required, $60 per person. Pre-order on the Gold Ridge website.

On my radar

La Tapatia restaurant will open at the former Chef Patrick’s in Guerneville, though no opening date has been announced. A sign recently went up for the restaurant, though the windows are still papered over. Rumor has it the Mexican eatery will be owned by brothers who operate a taco truck and grill nearby.

Got a food tip? Email me: heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com.

Petaluma Was Listed as One of the Vibiest Towns in America

August 2024

By Maci Martell

People kayak down the river in downtown Petaluma. (Sonoma County Tourism)

Webby Award-winning home and lifestyle blog Apartment Therapy recently released its list of the “15 Vibiest Towns in America.” Petaluma made it on the list as its only featured town in Northern California.

“Petaluma is peak California,” the Apartment Therapy list stated, “with stunning coastal vistas, Redwood forests, a booming antiques district, and top-tier restaurants and wineries — it’s the gateway to Wine Country.”

While Petaluma has a scenic river, great for kayaking and bird-watching, it doesn’t actually provide views of the Sonoma Coast, which is at least a half-hour drive away. And the closest redwoods are in Sugarloaf Ridge or Spring Lake parks (about a 30 to 45-minute drive) — but locals know the best place for redwoods is at Guerneville’s Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve.

A press release announcing the blog site’s “vibiest towns” winners stated that Apartment Therapy’s editors chose towns based on their distinct personality, the quality of things to see and do, and the residents who love where they live. Other factors in the consideration process included median rent, median sale price, geographical diversity and demographic diversity.

New, improved trail at Helen Putnam Regional Park.Dec. 12, 2021 (COURTESY OF SONOMA COUNTY PARKS) — A trail at Helen Putnam Regional Park overlooking Petaluma. (Courtesy of Sonoma County Parks)

Mural artist Maxfield Bala works on his "Welcome to Petaluma" mural project on Petaluma Blvd South along Highway 101 in Petaluma on Monday, January 28, 2019. (BETH SCHLANKER/ The Press Democrat) — Mural artist Maxfield Bala works on his “Welcome to Petaluma” mural project on Petaluma Blvd South along Highway 101 in Petaluma on Monday, Jan. 28, 2019. (Beth Schlanker/ The Press Democrat)

Apartment Therapy indicated that Petaluma’s vistas are its primary draw for being a vibe of a town. From the peaks of Helen Putnam Regional Park, visitors can take in sweeping panoramic views of the city and the vast rolling hills of Petaluma’s countryside, dotted with grazing cows and clusters of oak woodlands.

The Petaluma downtown area is iconic for its historic buildings — charmingly cool enough to be featured in such films as George Lucas’s 1973 “American Graffiti” and Francis Ford Coppola’s 1986 “Peggy Sue Got Married,” among other locally filmed movies.

An accompanying article to the Apartment Therapy list, by a Petaluma resident, points to some local favorite places in town, such as The Shuckery and Barber Cellars inside the century-old Hotel Petaluma. The writer also notes Kentucky Street’s antique and vintage clothing shops, like Summer Cottage Antiques and Opera House Collective.

The artsy side of Petaluma certainly lends to its appeal. The town is painted all over with vibrant murals from local artists, seen in places like American Alley and on the side of the town’s iconic Phoenix Theater. Quirky annual events abound here, too, such as the historic Butter & Egg Days Parade, the steampunk-themed Rivertown Revival and the World’s Ugliest Dog Contest.

Want to explore more of what this vibey town has to offer? Check out our favorite things to do in Petaluma.

The Best Way To Spend a Weekend Getaway in Calistoga

August 2024

By Carey Sweet

The mineral pool at Indian Springs in Calistoga. (Indian Springs)

Tiny town of Calistoga, we’re so proud to call you our Wine Country own. You’ve always been a charming burg, and now, you’re blossoming into an increasingly fashionable destination we adore. With new restaurants, resorts, wine tasting rooms and shops amid the historic landmarks, there’s so much to explore within your span of 2.6 square miles.

The history here is rich. Originally populated by the Wappo Indigenous people, the land came under the control of Mexico’s Mission San Francisco de Solano during the 1700s and early 1800s. Later, Anglo settlers began, well, settling in.

In 1859, American entrepreneur/gold mogul Sam Brannan began snatching up sprawling parcels. He was fascinated by the natural hot springs that abounded in the town. Brannan envisioned building a spa retreat reminiscent of his dream spot, Saratoga Springs resort in New York.

By 1862, he had built Calistoga Hot Springs resort. After the Napa Valley Railroad Company’s track was completed to Calistoga in 1868, the area became a particularly popular retreat for ferry passengers traveling from San Francisco, plus visitors from nearby Lake and Sonoma counties.

Salutes to Brannan remain to this day in several other lodging properties, restaurants and the location of the original Calistoga Hot Springs, where the posh Indian Springs Calistoga resort is today.

Fun fact: The Wappo name for the area was Nilektsonoma, meaning “Chicken Hawk Place.” Early Anglo settlers called it “Indian Hot Springs.” Brannan renamed it Calistoga, in what he later admitted was a slip of his tongue that transformed “Saratoga of California” into “Calistoga of Sarifornia.”

Here’s a favorite way to spend a few days’ getaway in Calistoga.

Day 1

Get an early start to your full day with brunch at Fleetwood (Friday-Sunday), in Calistoga Motor Lodge. Cal-cuisine dishes are soul-satisfying, like steel cut oatmeal that’s crispy-capped in sweet banana brûlée, or smoked salmon eggs Benedict layered with spinach. The crunchy chilaquiles are exceptional. Corn tortillas are smothered in chicken, pepper jack cheese, yolky poached eggs, red chile salsa, queso fresco and velvety avocado.

Take a spin on the brand new, scenic Napa Valley Vine Trail (opening to the public Aug. 17), accessed just a few blocks from Fleetwood/the Lodge. Rent an e-bike from Calistoga Bikeshop and be one of the first to traverse the 8.2-mile section connecting Calistoga to St. Helena.

Indulge in a wine tasting at the lavish Elusa Winery, on the grounds of the Four Seasons Resort Napa Valley. Tour the winemaking facilities and estate vineyards with a glass of wine in hand. Then relax in the contemporary, art-flocked lounge for tastes of high-end bottlings like Calistoga-grown Cabernet Sauvignon, paired with cheese and charcuterie.

House specialty Green Chile Apple Pie with walnut streusel, cheddar crust, whipped cream and a red chile honey drizzle and an Adaptogenic mushroom tea from the House of Better at the newly renovated Dr. Wilkinsons Backyard Resort and Mineral Springs in Calistoga on Tuesday, July 6, 2021. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat) — House specialty Green Chile Apple Pie with walnut streusel, cheddar crust, whipped cream and a red chile honey drizzle and an Adaptogenic mushroom tea. From the House of Better at Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort and Mineral Springs in Calistoga. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Break for lunch at House of Better, at the Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort & Mineral Springs. The specialty here is New Mexico fare. Lots of Hatch chiles make for sumptuous dishes like red chile chicken posole and carne adovada-chile-cheese flat enchiladas. Don’t forget the must-have apple pie, laced with roasted green chiles tucked in a butter-based cheddar crust then topped with walnut streusel and clouds of crème fraîche.

Check into Calistoga Motor Lodge, originally built in the 1940s and dramatically renovated and expanded a few years ago into an Airstream-chic collection of “camper” rooms reminiscent of elegant camper van interiors (pet friendly!). The larger deluxe rooms are new, nestled on the second floor with private balconies (ask for a Palisades mountain view). Complimentary goodies include freshly ground organic pour-over coffee, fun snacks like Cracker Jack and toiletries from the onsite MoonAcre Spa.

(Tip: Priority Cruiser Bicycles are complimentary for up to two hours for Lodge guests, perfect for navigating Calistoga’s 1-mile-long main drag of Lincoln Avenue).

Kick back over dinner at Bricco Osteria, a new Italian joint that welcomes with elevated comfort food. Try the lasagna draped in rich béchamel, organic chicken parmigiano, and local eggplant stuffed with ricotta and parmigiano then baked in silky tomato sauce. Be sure to get a reservation; this bustling spot is hot.

Spicy heritage pork and beef bolognese with fresh fettuccini at Lovina, a California-Italian fusion restaurant in Calistoga, Tuesday, Nov. 21, 2023. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat) — Spicy heritage pork and beef Bolognese with fresh fettuccini at Lovina, a California-Italian fusion restaurant in Calistoga. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

Day 2

Enjoy a leisurely brunch at Lovina. Owner Jennifer Bennett wows with Cal-Med cuisine in a chic cottage setting (the garden patio is particularly lovely). The housemade cinnamon roll is a must — baked golden in a cast iron skillet then slathered in cream cheese icing topped with pecans. An Omeletti du Jour is done in the delicate, soft-folded French style. Or go big and dig into spicy heritage pork and beef Bolognese with parmesan, Calabrian chile and breadcrumbs over fresh fettuccine (make it “dirty” by adding melted cheese and truffle butter).

Take a quick drive to Bale Grist Mill, a gorgeous California state park located between Calistoga and St. Helena. The remarkable structure was built in 1846, as settlers came to have their grain ground into meal or flour via a water wheel, which still drives the milling stones today. It’s a good idea to make an appointment at stateparks@ncrposd.org. Regular hours are 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays, but the volunteer-led tour availability can vary.

Sterling Vineyards gondolas over the valley in Calistoga. (Adam Potts/Courtesy Sterling Vineyards)

Scoot over to nearby Sterling Vineyards for a scenic gondola ride up to the estate’s several mountaintop tasting rooms. The Hilltop Tasting Room is a favorite choice, overlooking the Napa Valley and showcasing five exclusive estate wines paired with local cheese and charcuterie.

Grab lunch at the family-owned Sushi Mambo for a Japanese feast of okonomiyaki pancake studded with squid and seafood yosenabe simmered in rich dashi broth in an earthenware pot over flames. Dozens upon dozens of sushi and sashimi choices beckon, too. The decadent “Main Lovester” is made with lobster, crab and shrimp topped in tuna, hamachi, avocado, tobiko and miso.

A robot named “Robinovino” pours a glass of rose at Maria Concetto Winery tasting room in Calistoga, Thursday, Dec. 14, 2023. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat) — A robot named “RobinoVino” pours a glass of rose at Maria Concetto Winery tasting room in Calistoga. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

Hop-skip a few blocks over to Maria Concetto Winery, a new tasting room featuring the delightful RobinoVino, a robot sommelier. Dressed in a dapper bow tie, the $50,000 machine picks up your wine bottle, pours a generous splash in your glass, then tips any leftover drops into a dump bucket before selecting your next wine to go in a fresh glass. While you sip, he dances to an upbeat music track under beams of colorful lights.

Shop and sip at the creative combo that is Picayune Cellars & Mercantile, a boutique tasting room with covetable clothes and home accessories, plus attractions like a build-your-own hat bar. The classic tasting is a great introduction, offering five wines to enjoy at a patio table or while wandering the store, glass in hand. Fun finds at the mercantile include Indigenous-made jewelry, stylish water bottles inserted with sealed gempods (filled with precious “wellness” gems), and intriguing books like “The Modern Witch’s Guide to Magickal Self Care” (yes, it’s spelled Magickal).

Treat yourself to dinner at the elegant but relaxed Truss at the Four Seasons. Vineyard and sunset views are postcard worthy, and the Cal-Italian menu appeals with comfort choices such as a knife-and-fork Stemple Creek Ranch cheeseburger, but also luxuries like a 32-ounce rib-eye for two dressed in sea salt, bone marrow jus and chimichurri (it’s a cool $225).

Truss in Calistoga — A cheeseburger from Truss Restaurant & Bar at the Four Seasons Napa Valley in Calistoga. (Courtesy of Bonjwing Lee)

Recommendations

Indian Springs Calistoga, 1712 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, 707-709-8139, indianspringscalistoga.com

Fleetwood, 1880 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, 707-709-4410, fleetwoodcalistoga.com

Calistoga Motor Lodge, 1880 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, 707-737-0000, calistogamotorlodgeandspa.com

Napa Valley Vine Trail, vinetrail.org

Calistoga Bikeshop, 1318 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, 707-942-9687, calistogabikeshop.com

Elusa Winery, 400 Silverado Trail N., Calistoga, 707-403-6644, elusawinery.com

House of Better, 1507 Lincoln Ave. (in Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort & Mineral Springs), Calistoga, 707-942-6257, houseofbetter.com

Bricco Osteria, 1350 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, 707-341-3442, briccoosteria.com

Lovina, 1107 Cedar St., Calistoga, 707-942-6500, lovinacalistoga.com

Bale Grist Mill, 3369 Saint Helena Hwy N., Calistoga/Saint Helena, 707-942-4575, napaoutdoors.org

Sterling Vineyards, 1111 Dunaweal Lane, Calistoga, 800-726-6136, sterlingvineyards.com

Sushi Mambo, 1631 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, 707-942-4699, sushimambo.com

Maria Concetto Winery, 1367 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, 707-860-5774, mariaconcettowinery.com

Picayune Cellars & Mercantile, 1440 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, 707-341-3410, picayunecellars.com

Truss, 400 Silverado Trail N., Calistoga, 707-709-2100, trussrestaurantandbar.com

SingleThread, Cyrus Keep Michelin Stars for 2024

August 2024

By Heather Irwin

SingleThread restaurant in Healdsburg. (SingleThread)

In what was the most cringeworthy California Michelin Guide ceremony ever, Monday night’s 2024 awards gala in Half Moon Bay left a bitter taste in the mouth of thousands of viewers unable to watch the event.

Considered the Oscars of the food world, the annual California Michelin Guide awards can make or break a restaurant.

But a last minute technical malfunction with live streaming equipment at the invite-only event sent home audiences scrambling to find alternative live streams.

Even for attendees, the stunning lack of new stars and confusion over who would keep (or lose) stars left a pall over what’s usually one of the most anticipated events in the restaurant world.

In a press release sent after the event, however, more details were provided.

Sonoma and Napa received no new stars for 2024. Barndiva, in Healdsburg, lost its star after changing its concept from fine dining to a casual cafe in January.

Molti Amici was the only North Bay restaurant to receive a new Bib Gourmand award. That distinction is given to restaurants with good food at a moderate price.

The (still) winners

There were still plenty of winners who maintained stars from 2023 in the new California Michelin Guide, including Healdsburg’s SingleThread (3 stars), The French Laundry in Yountville (3 stars) and Harbor House in Elk (2 stars).

Keeping their one-star status are Auberge du Soleil (Rutherford), Auro (Calistoga), Cyrus (Geyserville), Kenzo (Napa) and Press (St. Helena).

Maintaining Bib Gourmand status: Ciccio (Yountville), El Molino Central (Sonoma), FolkTable (Sonoma), Glen Ellen Star (Glen Ellen), Khom Loi (Sebastopol), Ramen Gaijin (Sebastopol), Stockhome (Petaluma) and Valley (Sonoma).

So, what happened?

From the start of Monday’s Golden State Michelin Guide event, things were chaotic as eager chefs, hospitality workers, restaurateurs and journalists awaited the start of a 7 p.m. live feed to watch the awards.

After an agonizing wait, the Michelin YouTube channel announced that the livestream wouldn’t be viewable.

“We are terribly sorry and are excited to share the news with you, so please check back and we’ll post links to the stories detailing the awards as they are announced.” (They weren’t.)

A screen grab of an Instagram live feed from Chef Rogelio Garcia

Local chef Rogelio Garcia of Auro restaurant in Calistoga (a 2023 and 2024 one-star winner) was in attendance and pointed his phone toward the stage in a live Instagram feed. At one point, nearly 300 people were watching, including several local chefs. Journalists from Eater LA provided running commentary of the foibles while live streaming to Instagram.

Exactly who was winning awards was often unclear with shaky handheld video, loud background noise and videographers for the event frequently standing in front of the stage.

“And thanks to everyone watching at home,” said the event’s host, awkwardly wrapping up the event, somehow unaware of the glitch.

To which one Instagram-watcher replied: “This stream gets no stars.”

The first American Michelin Guide was released in 2005 for New York. San Francisco and the Bay Area were added in 2008, with the statewide California guide first appearing in 2019. The Michelin Guide was first published in France in 1900 to encourage car travel (and the use of Michelin tires) and offered hotel and restaurant recommendations.

These Local Wineries and Tasting Rooms Make You Feel Like You’re in France

August 2024

By Maci Martell

Patio at Chateau St. Jean in Sonoma, California — Chateau St. Jean Patio (Photo courtesy of Treasury Wine Estates)

Watching the Summer Olympics in Paris may bring about travelers’ envy for wine tasting adventures in the City of Light. A handful of Sonoma County wineries are prepared to satisfy those desires with a local taste of France.

Check out our roundup of the six best French wineries and tasting rooms in Sonoma County. Feeling hungry after all that wine? These local eateries offer a bon voyage into French cuisine.

Chateau St. Jean Winery

Founded in 1973, Chateau St. Jean resides on the 1920s-era estate of Ernest and Maude Goff in the Valley of the Moon, where they built their French country-style summer home that now serves as the winery’s Reserve Tasting Room. The preserved chateau, which is listed in the National Trust for Historic Preservation, includes various European features along with a rustic rose garden reminiscent of bucolic villas in Southern France.

7/15/2013: B2: PC: (From left) Friends Eileen Maloy, Kathy Burke, and Helen Baum, wear berets while celebrating Bastille Day at Chateau St. Jean on Sunday, July 14, 2013 in Kenwood, California. (BETH SCHLANKER/ The Press Democrat) — From left, friends Eileen Maloy, Kathy Burke and Helen Baum wear berets while celebrating Bastille Day at Chateau St. Jean on Sunday, July 14, 2013 in Kenwood. (BETH SCHLANKER/ The Press Democrat)

Chateau St. Jean offers a number of tastings where guests can sip wines sourced from local Bordeaux varietal vineyards and other Sonoma County AVAs. Enjoy a selection of five estate wines with vineyard views on the patio or within the historic, wood-paneled chateau rooms during the Chateau Experience tasting ($65 per person). Or invite a group of friends to a Bocce, Bordeaux & Burgundy Experience tasting ($55 per person) to play a game of bocce ball while sipping estate wines and snacking on French-inspired bites from the deli amid lush settings. Reserve tastings on Tock. Open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily.

8555 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-257-5784, chateaustjean.com

Jordan Vineyard & Winery

After a day of wine tasting, guests can stay the night at Jordan Winery’s French-style chateau. Founders Tom and Sally Jordan added the lodgings in the 1970s, complete with a commercial kitchen and dining room, for members of the winery’s loyalty program, Jordan Estate Rewards. The three guest suites are adorned with Old World French architectural features and rare antiques from as early as France’s Baroque period, such as a Louis XV-era armoire decked out with a Victrola record player, French classics on vinyl and vintage playing cards.

Non-rewards members can explore the Jordan chateau followed by a wine and food pairing during the Winery Tour & Tasting experience ($85 per person). Available on select days from July through September, the Chef’s Terrace Tasting ($110 per person) offers guests sweeping views of the winery’s vineyards, chateau and culinary garden as they enjoy a seasonal, French-inspired wine and food pairing prepared by Michelin star rated chef Jesse Mallgren. Reserve online. Open from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. daily.

1474 Alexander Valley Road, Healdsburg, 707-431-5250, jordanwinery.com

Matanzas Creek Winery

A visit to Bennett Valley’s Matanzas Creek winery resembles a stroll through Provence, France, one of the world’s largest producers of lavender. The winery established 3 acres of lavender on its property in 1991, greeting guests with its welcoming fragrance and dazzling purple hues. The lavender gardens also source the estate’s Lavender Market, which sells infused honey, candles, soaps, balms, body butters, and other home and body products made with the aromatic flower.

Admission for the self-guided Lavender Stroll is $10 per person. Reservations are required and available daily from June through August, when the gardens are in full bloom, before harvesting — though the market is open year-round. Get the full Provence winery experience by adding the Matanzas Creek Estate Tasting ($35 per person) to try six estate wines while overlooking the dreamy gardens. Reserve on Tock. Open from 11 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday and from 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Friday through Sunday.

6097 Bennett Valley Road, Santa Rosa, 707-521-7019, matanzascreek.com

Vérité Winery

The late Vintner’s Hall of Famer Jess Jackson, of Santa Rosa’s Kendall-Jackson Wines, and French winemaker Pierre Seillan launched Vérité in 1998 to create distinctive, Bordeaux-style reds, like Merlot and Cabernets. In 2022, Vérité upped its French factor when it unveiled a grand chateau to house its winery and visitor center, completed last year with the construction of a 9,000-square-foot barrel chai (pronounced “shay,” a French term for a storage cellar).

The Estate Tasting ($200 per person) and Library Comparison Tasting ($350 per person) offer guests selections of estate vintages along with French-inspired accoutrements. Tastings take place in private rooms, luxuriously appointed with velvet pillows, chandeliers and stone floors from France. The tastings are available by appointment only; request an appointment online or by emailing info@veritewines.com.

4611 Thomas Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-9000, veritewines.com

Maison Healdsburg

Three SingleThread alums, including French wine scholar and sommelier Evan Hufford, opened one of Healdsburg’s only wine bars late last year. It’s a little slice of Europe on Healdsburg Avenue — a place where people can enjoy an after-hours glass of wine late into the evening while nibbling on upscale bar bites.

A vast selection of libations at Maison includes Old World wines from the Champagne and Burgundy regions of France and other European locales, in addition to old California vintages and a fine sampling of sakes and beers. Accompaniments to your late-night Champagne or Pinot Noir include caviar, salumi, smoked oysters and international cheeses sourced by Doralice Handal, formerly of the Cheese Shop of Healdsburg. Open from 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. Friday through Tuesday.

210 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, maisonwinebar.com

The Bubble Bar tasting room in Healdsburg will focus on champagnes, sparklers, cavas, proseccos and all things bubbles. Photo taken Monday, Feb. 5, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Bubble Bar Healdsburg

Opened just in time for Valentine’s Day this year, the Bubble Bar tasting room offers visitors a glimpse of a Parisian café in downtown Healdsburg. A fancy chandelier, vintage coupe glasses, tufted bench seating, and fleur-de-lis tile floors and ceiling evoke a romantic setting fit for any Francophile. The Bubble Bar even provides a short-term, two-bedroom rental housed in a 1905 Victorian home, called the Cuvée House.

The wine list reads as a who’s who of premium bubbles, from French Champagnes and Italian Proseccos to Spanish Cavas and German Rieslings. Of course there’s also bubbles sourced from Wine Country, like Cuvée from Iron Horse and sparkling Chenin Blanc from Leo Steen Wines. French-inspired bites include caviar, tinned fish, charcuterie and Costeaux French Bakery macarons. The wine bar curates a blind tasting flight each month highlighting three standout wines — the month of August features Brut Champagnes. Open noon to 8 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday. Walk-ins welcomed.

134 North St., Healdsburg, 707-395-4434, healdsburgbubblebar.com

Midcentury Russian River Home in the Redwoods on the Market for $1.25 Million

August 2024

By Karen Kizer

A midcentury lodge-style home on 9 forested acres in the lower Russian River is currently listed for $1,250,000. The two-bedroom, two-bathroom home maintains the charm of its 1949 vintage, but also benefits from renovations that opened up the floorplan and modernized the electrical components.

Formerly a restaurant, the exquisitely designed home was once owned by the late writer Randy Shilts, the first openly gay San Francisco Chronicle journalist who reported on the early years of the AIDS crisis and wrote the groundbreaking 1987 book, And The Band Played On.

A cool green tile backsplash contrasts with the warmth of the pine cabinets and countertops. (Open Homes Photography)

The dwelling’s unique design elements include an all-pine kitchen, a stone fireplace, a windowed cupola and a slab stone shower.

A spacious deck lined in bench seating gives ample space for redwood gazing, even though the home’s windows allow for plenty of that from the inside.

A separate garage can function as an office or studio.

For more information on 14631 Armstrong Woods Road in Guerneville, contact Doug Bohling, 707-953-6106, doug.bohling@sothebysrealty.com, Artisan Sotheby’s International Realty, armstrong-woods.com

Sea Ranch Glass House Nestled by the Sonoma Coast Listed for $1.85 Million

August 2024

By Karen Kizer

Kitchen area in the great room. (Jim Nevill Productions)

A two-bedroom, two-bathroom Sea Ranch home with generously sized glass walls recently hit the market. The home, located on two parcels making up nearly an acre, is listed for $1,850,000.

Designed by architect Obie Bowman and built in 1993 by local contractor Brian Dixon, the dwelling on Windsong Lane is set among a grove of trees overlooking the ocean past Black Point Beach.

The home’s great room features opposing walls of windows that allow ocean views on one side and hill views on the other. This also allows for a stunning exterior view that passes through the entire home. Anchoring the look are the walled-in areas with wood siding.

Sea Ranch coast home (Jim Nevill Productions) — Seating area with ocean views. (Jim Nevill Productions)

An extension of the great room, the eating area, juts out from the hillside, giving a true “up-in-the-trees” feeling. Other design elements like skylights, built-ins and a cantilevered loft add more design intrigue.

And when the views from the windows aren’t immersive enough, more gazing can take place from the property’s hot tub, accessible via a wood-planked walkway.

For more information about 35226 Windsong Lane, The Sea Ranch, contact listing agent Cindy Kennedy, 707-326-0600, buymendocoast.com, Kennedy & Associates, kennedyrealestate.com

Find the Best Summer Flowers From This Favorite Sonoma Farmer-Florist

August 2024

By Abigail Peterson

Florist Kari Copple — Farmer-florist Kari Copple’s backyard growing fields are awash in summer color. (Conor Hagen/for Sonoma Magazine)

Lifelong gardener Kari Copple doesn’t do anything halfway. She first got into growing cut flowers because of her three children.

“I would pick flowers from my garden for events at my kids’ school, and then I came up with the idea for a little cutting garden out in the field,” she says.

And it grew from there, along pathways and rows, in tendrils and vines and lots and lots of compost. Copple is now the owner of a 2-acre flower farm as well as downtown Sonoma’s 7th St. Flowers, a cheery blue and white roadside stand launched in 2021.

Nearly every Saturday from March to October, Copple parks a cart filled with two dozen colorful bouquets for sale at the end of her driveway. The flowers go out at 8 a.m. — and by 11 a.m., she’s often completely sold out.

Kari Copple sells her cut flowers to customers at her flower stand in Sonoma. (Conor Hagen/for Sonoma Magazine)

“When they were little, my kids would sell lemonade and hot chocolate out here, so we get good traffic, and people just love the bouquets,” she says.

Plus, it’s a way to stay on top of the goings-on in the neighborhood. “I sit out with the cart, and I get to meet all the dogs. It’s a doggy world out there,” she jokes.

Copple grew up in a family of vegetable farmers who ran an open-air produce market in downtown Portland, Oregon. “Farming is in my blood, but not flowers,” she explains.

She’s says she’s always been outdoorsy and has gardened for decades despite losing an arm and a leg in an electrical accident when she was 19 years old. She uses a motorized cart to move throughout her growing fields.

She and her husband, Scott, moved to Sonoma over 30 years ago and raised their children here, moving into their current home in 1998. At the time, Copple was in full-time parenting mode. She grew roses and peonies as a hobby and planted a gorgeous formal garden in the front of her home, but she never imagined flowers as a full-time job.

“It was my love of gardening that morphed into all this — I am still very enmeshed in that gardening world.”

In 2019, Copple took an intensive flower business course with Erin Benzakein of Floret Farms, one of the icons of the farmer-florist movement, and decided to launch into farming full-time. Soon, her back field was filled with carefully laid-out beds of cutting flowers in a riot of colors and forms, all timed to the climate and season.

It wasn’t necessarily the path she had in mind at the time.

“What person approaching 60 years old takes on a full-time farm? This is a labor-intensive job,” she says. “You have to have a passion for the flowers — the work will be daunting if you don’t love it.”

Copple’s growing fields have been laid out for accessibility, with wider-than-normal 4-foot pathways to accommodate her motorized cart.

“I think I love to do things that seem to other people like I couldn’t do them. I do think the disability does play a bit of a factor in a lot of things,” she reflects. “People thought I couldn’t have kids, and I have three. People thought I couldn’t do a big garden, and here I’m running a farm. I think there’s always that part of me that is like, there isn’t anything I can’t do if I really want to do it. I do like to be that person.”

Copple starts her day at 7 a.m., snipping blooms while the weather is cool and piling them into 5-gallon plastic buckets she carries back to the garage on her cart. She arranges bouquets in the garage, which can take several hours, and stores bouquets and extra blooms in a large floral cooler her husband built this spring in a small outbuilding. The cooler makes it much easier to keep cut blooms fresh and conditioned.

Except for two helpers who come in one day a week to do some of the heavier work, Copple does all the farming herself — planting, weeding, running irrigation and harvesting.

She finds meaning in the long list of daily chores, as the garden has always been where she finds her peace.

“It’s very zen-like. I’m just in the moment when I’m out there,” she says. “Whatever it is — whether I’m planting, whether I’m weeding, my focus is so specific. I just really like that. I’m also a worker bee. I’m always doing, doing, doing. My husband is, like, ‘Are you ever going to rest?’ But I’m a doer.”

It’s taken a few years to figure out exactly how to dial in her production. “I’ve just ramped things up so much — it’s all business out here now,” she says.

During the pandemic, as she was starting out, she often gave away flowers in front of the house to help bring cheer to the neighborhood. As the business grew, she considered having a wholesale stand at the big flower market in San Francisco, but she didn’t want to be getting up at 2 a.m. to haul buckets into the city. And she’s not interested in becoming an event florist taking on large weddings — but she will create casual arrangements for small parties and take custom orders in addition to arranging bouquets for the Saturday cart.

Selling to the community has proven both rewarding and sustainable at this point in her life, when she wants to be busy but also have time outside of the farm. She became a grandmother recently, and last summer, Copple took a couple weeks off to fulfill a lifelong dream of visiting iconic British gardens like Great Dixter and Sissinghurst Castle.

“I could do more, but there’s a work-life balance here for me. I want to enjoy life — my kids and my grandson. I want to have time to bike and walk with friends in the morning.”

Though she’s lived in downtown Sonoma for decades, flowers have brought Copple a deeper sense of community and family. Copple has been a mentor to a local ninth grader for the past five years, and her mentee loves being in the garden. Copple’s son and two daughters sometimes mind the stand and built the website.

A fellow florist often comes by on Wednesdays so they can harvest blooms together, and high-end designers like Sonoma’s Anne Appleman often pop by. They know they can hit Copple up for beautiful, locally grown material.

In July and August, she’ll have tons of vivid summery offerings — sunflowers, zinnias, amaranth, lisianthus, dahlias and late roses, all in colorful mixed garden bouquets and posies.

Lots of folks have a garden in this area, so she tries to grow varieties that are a little unusual, a little bit more difficult to source. A good bouquet means she needs variety in what she grows — taller spiky flowers, focal points, supporting characters and plenty of pretty foliage.

Arranging and stocking the cart is still the part of the business Copple loves the best. “This is all by word of mouth,” she says. “It was all like, ‘Hey, there’s a flower cart popping up on Seventh Street East.’”

“I get a lot of joy out of people getting joy out of the flowers.”

Kari Copple, 7th Street Flowers, 19885 Seventh St. East, Sonoma. 707-287-0589, 7thstflowers.com. Email or call ahead for custom bouquets. Flower cart with bouquets for sale on Saturday mornings through October.