These Amazing Sonoma County Feats Made It Into the Guinness World Records

Some of the Kenwood pillow-fight artifacts collected by Pillowfight Coffee proprietors Joshua and Ashley Breinlinger. Photo taken at Pilllowfight Coffee in Kenwood Village on Highway 12 on Friday, Dec. 13, 2024. (Robbi Pengelly / The Sonoma Index-Tribune)

In August, the London-based Guinness World Records, known initially as the Guinness Book of Records, celebrated its 70th anniversary of cataloging record-breaking feats around the globe.

The idea for the book originated in the early 1950s, when Sir Hugh Beaver, managing director of the U.K.’s Guinness Brewery, enlisted the services of twin-brother researchers Norris and Ross McWhirter to compile a collection of interesting facts and statistics. Intended as a promotional tool for Guinness, based on settling pub arguments, the book quickly grew in popularity, according to the World Records website.

On Aug. 27, 1955, Beaver and the McWhirter twins published the first edition of The Guinness Book of Records, which became an international bestseller and has since entertained readers worldwide.

Given Sonoma County’s reputation for creative talent, quirky events and standout venues — where all kinds of extraordinary things can happen — it’s no surprise that the region has earned several Guinness World Records of its own. Here’s a look at the local people, places and traditions that have made their mark in the record books.

John Tremann and Steve Herron took swings at each other during a pillow fight competition in Kenwood on July 4, 1984. The World Pillow Fight Championships originated in Kenwood. (The Press Democrat, file)
John Tremann and Steve Herron take swings at each other during a pillow fight competition in Kenwood on July 4, 1984. The World Pillow Fighting Championships originated in 1966 in Kenwood. (The Press Democrat, file)

Longest-running pillow fight contest

Founded in 1966, the World Pillow Fighting Championships in Kenwood was a beloved local tradition each Fourth of July until 2006. Launched initially as a fundraiser for the Kenwood Firemen’s Association, the event drew large crowds as competitors straddled a slippery pole suspended over mud, attempting to knock each other off with a pillow. The epic competition ran for 40 years, earning recognition from Guinness World Records as the world’s longest-running pillow fight contest.

In recent years, Kenwood’s historic pillow fights have seen a resurgence of interest. Last November, a new cafe called Pillowfight Coffee opened in town, paying homage to the playful tradition. And earlier this year, Santa Rosa revived the World Pillow Fighting Championships, hosting the event at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds on July 4.

Many various sundries and packaged food items are also available at Pilllowfight Coffee in Kenwood Village on Highway 12. Photo taken on Friday, Dec. 13, 2024. (Robbi Pengelly / The Sonoma Index-Tribune)
Many various sundries and packaged food items are available at Pilllowfight Coffee in Kenwood. Photo taken on Friday, Dec. 13, 2024. (Robbi Pengelly / The Sonoma Index-Tribune)
Naomi Perry, 8, of Santa Rosa holds up a sign in support of her family pet Moe, a Brussels Griffon-pug mix and a contestant in the World's Ugliest Dog contest at the Sonoma-Marin Fair in Petaluma, California on Friday, June 23, 2017. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
A large crowd gathers at the World’s Ugliest Dog Contest at the Sonoma-Marin Fair in Petaluma on Friday, June 23, 2017. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

Most wins of the World’s Ugliest Dog® Contest

Chi-Chi — a “rare African sand dog,” according to Guinness World Records — is a seven-time winner of the World’s Ugliest Dog Contest, traditionally held at the Sonoma-Marin Fairgrounds in Petaluma. The dog won in 1978, 1982—84, 1986—87 and 1991.

Largest vocabulary for a bird ever

Puck, a budgerigar (a parakeet native to Australia) owned by Camille Jordan of Petaluma, was accepted into the 1995 Guinness Book of Records as the bird with the largest vocabulary in the world. Like many other species of parrot, budgerigars can mimic human speech — and according to Guinness World Records, Puck knew an estimated 1,728 words before he died in 1994.

Longest mini flying disc time aloft (male)

On Sept. 27, 1997, in Rohnert Park, Conrad Damon threw a mini flying disc that remained in the air for 9.92 seconds, setting a record for the longest time aloft for a mini flying disc thrown by a male. The World Flying Disc Federation ratified the record.

Largest bottle of Champagne / sparkling wine

Standing at 4 feet, 6 inches tall and 4 feet, 4 inches in circumference, a Champagne bottle created for Guerneville’s Korbel Winery in 1998 is recorded as the world’s largest bottle of sparkling wine. Seven glass blowers from Demptos Glass in the Czech Republic created the 25.7-gallon bottle — enough capacity to hold 1,000 glasses of Champagne. The bottle remains on display at the winery and can be seen via a complimentary walking tour, offered daily.

Korbel Champagne Cellars in Guerneville. (Sonoma County Tourism)
Korbel Champagne Cellars in Guerneville houses the world’s largest bottle of Champagne. (Sonoma County Tourism)
The Beasley family on Sunnyslope Drive in Santa Rosa for a family portrait, minus one (Danielle, 24, in bed recovering from knee surgery a day earlier) from left: Deborah; Laina, 4; Kent; twins Carleigh and Jeffrey, 16, on Wednesday, June 17, 2009. (The Press Democrat, file)
The Beasley family on Sunnyslope Drive in Santa Rosa for a family portrait, minus one (Danielle, 24, in bed recovering from knee surgery a day earlier) from left: Debi; Laina, 4; Kent; twins Carleigh and Jeffrey, 16, on Wednesday, June 17, 2009. (The Press Democrat, file)

Largest gap between test-tube births

Fraternal siblings Laina, Carleigh and Jeffery Beasley were conceived together in a test tube in 1991. The following year, Debi Beasley gave birth to Carleigh and Jeffery, but the third triplet remained a two-celled embryo, frozen in suspended animation for the next 13 years. Laina Beasley was born to Debi and Kent Beasley on Feb. 4, 2005, in Santa Rosa. According to Guinness World Records, fertility specialists confirmed it as “the longest documented case of an embryo that has been frozen and resulted in a successful birth.”

Most chin-ups in one minute (male)

On Dec. 20, 2008, Guy Schott did 57 chin-ups in one minute at the Sonoma County YMCA in Santa Rosa. Schott’s achievement came three years after breaking the world record for most pullups (644) in one hour, according to SFGate in 2005. Caine Eckstein of Australia broke that record with 1,131 pullups in one hour in 2022; however, Schott’s record for most chin-ups in one minute remains unbroken.

Largest collection of NASCAR cereal boxes

According to Guinness World Records, Randy Ricci of Santa Rosa had amassed the largest known collection of NASCAR cereal boxes — 315 boxes — verified on May 7, 2014, at Sonoma Raceway in Sonoma.

Randy Ricci, collector of over 300 NASCAR-themed cereal boxes, sits among a fraction of his collection at his home in Santa Rosa on February 21, 2014. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Randy Ricci, collector of over 300 NASCAR-themed cereal boxes, sits among a fraction of his collection at his home in Santa Rosa on Feb. 21, 2014. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
A collection of “Star Wars” memorabilia is displayed at Rancho Obi-Wan, a nonprofit museum in Petaluma, on Thursday, May 1, 2025. (AP Photo/Haven Daley)
A collection of “Star Wars” memorabilia is displayed at Rancho Obi-Wan, a nonprofit museum in Petaluma, on Thursday, May 1, 2025. (AP Photo/Haven Daley)

Largest collection of Star Wars memorabilia

Nestled on Chapman Lane in Petaluma, nonprofit museum Rancho Obi-Wan houses an estimated 500,000 unique Star Wars items — at least 93,260 of which have been accurately audited and cataloged, as of May 2015 — making it the world’s largest Star Wars memorabilia collection. Steve Sansweet, former head of fan relations at Lucasfilm, amassed the collection and established Rancho Obi-Wan in 2011. Note: Rancho Obi-Wan does not allow drop-ins; guided tours are typically booked to capacity six to eight weeks in advance. ranchoobiwan.org

Most consecutive days surfing

The late Dale Webster, nicknamed “The Daily Wavester,” broke the record for most consecutive days surfing (14,642 days) between Sept. 2, 1975, and Oct. 4, 2015, in Bodega Bay. Webster initially challenged himself to surf for a consecutive 100 days, but continued his streak for four decades until 2015, when he needed an operation for kidney stones. Webster died on Aug. 9, 2025, in Rohnert Park.

Guinness World Record holder Dale Webster
Dale “The Daily Wavester” Webster displays a commemorative surfboard and plaque to an appreciative crowd that had gathered to honor him at Bodega Bay School in 2004. Webster surfed a consecutive 14,642 days between 1975 to 2015 in Bodega Bay, setting a world record. (Lynn Schnitzer / for the Petaluma Argus-Courier)

Highest altitude for a hand-thrown ceramic pot

In November of 2015, Robert Weiss of Crystalline Glazed Ceramics in Healdsburg traveled to the North Base Camp of Mt. Everest and threw a pot at 17,200-feet altitude, setting a world record for the highest hand-thrown ceramic pot. Weiss had to work quickly throwing the pottery to avoid frostbite in below-freezing temperatures.

Oldest ice hockey player

Born on July 18, 1921, in Ashland, Wisconsin, Mark Sertich broke the world record as the oldest ice hockey player when he played in the Snoopy’s Senior World Hockey Tournament in 2017 at Snoopy’s Home Ice in Santa Rosa at the age of 96. Sertich died at age 99 in August 2020.

Guinness World Record holder Matt Smith
Pro Stock Motorcycle driver Matt Smith celebrates his victory at the DENSO NHRA Sonoma Nationals in the John Cardinale Media Room on Sunday, July 28, 2024, in Sonoma. (Nicholas Vides / For The Press Democrat)

Fastest speed in an NHRA Drag Racing Pro Stock motorcycle race

Six-time National Hot Rod Association Pro Stock Motorcycle champion Matt Smith achieved the fastest speed in a 440-yard NHRA Pro Stock motorcycle race when he clocked 205.04 mph on July 24, 2021, at the NHRA Sonoma Nationals in Sonoma.

Fastest solar-powered train

A team of engineers in Sonoma, led by Eric Houston and Marco Fucci di Napoli, built a solar-powered train that achieved a speed of 30.731 miles per hour in August 2021, making it the world’s fastest solar-powered train.

Eric Houston and Marco Fucci di Napoli prepare to place the final panel on Solar Train in Schellville, Friday, Aug. 20, 2021. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Eric Houston and Marco Fucci di Napoli prepare to place the final panel on the Solar Train in Schellville, Friday, Aug. 20, 2021. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Eric Houston, left, and Marco Fucci di Napoli take the Solar Train out for a spin in the Schellville area of Sonoma County, Friday, Aug. 20, 2021 , where they will attempt a world speed record on Saturday. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Eric Houston, left, and Marco Fucci di Napoli take the Solar Train out for a spin in the Schellville area of Sonoma County, Friday, Aug. 20, 2021 , where they will attempt a world speed record on Saturday. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)

Youngest person to have a wisdom tooth extracted (male)

At 9 years and 109 days old, Santiago Bacon Gonzalez became the youngest person to have a wisdom tooth extracted on Nov. 15, 2023, in Santa Rosa.

Most consecutive pullups while hula hooping (male)

Reger Maffei of Rohnert Park performed 23 consecutive pullups while hula-hooping, recorded on April 22, 2025. A year prior, on April 20, Maffei broke the world record for the longest duration of hula hooping in an abdominal plank position, at 7 minutes and 41.28 seconds. More recently, he broke the record for the most consecutive chin-ups (24) while hula hooping, which was recorded Aug. 29, 2025.

Fastest speed in an NHRA Drag Racing Top Fuel race

Californian drag racer Brittany Force achieved the fastest speed in a National Hot Rod Association race in the Top Fuel class, clocking in at 343.16 mph on a 1,000-foot-long strip, on July 25, 2025, in Sonoma. Force set the national record for the third time at this year’s NHRA Sonoma Nationals held at the Sonoma Raceway, beating her own record set just five days earlier.

Top Fuel driver Brittany Force waves at fans as she walks out onto the Mission Foods Series stage at the DENSO NHRA Sonoma Nationals on Sunday, July 27, 2025 in Sonoma. (Nicholas Vides / For The Press Democrat)
Top Fuel driver Brittany Force waves at fans as she walks out onto the Mission Foods Series stage at the DENSO NHRA Sonoma Nationals on Sunday, July 27, 2025, in Sonoma. (Nicholas Vides / For The Press Democrat)

Largest Opioid Overdose Reversal Training

Shortly after noon on Friday Oct. 17, 2025, exactly 1,167 Analy High School students made history by taking part in what is now officially the largest number of people to be trained, at one time, to use Narcan to save someone’s life — an occurrence that was officially certified by Guinness World Records. Previously, the Guinness World Record for an “overdose-reversal training” was 363 people, set on July 14, 2024, by the nonprofit advocacy group, Words of Hope 4 Life, in Royal Oak, Michigan, according to Guinness World Records.

Highest capacity geothermal power station

Located in the Mayacamas Mountains and spanning about 45 miles across Sonoma and Lake counties, The Geysers is “the world’s biggest single geothermal power base, with 22 geothermal power plants and a total installed capacity of 1,517MW,” according to Guinness World RecordsVisitors can explore the 6,500-square-foot facility in Middletown to learn about geothermal energy through guided tours and interactive displays.

Local Chef’s Grateful Dead-Inspired Harvest Dinner Bridges Art and Food

Private chef Jessie Keilt is the daughter of Grateful Dead lyricist Robert Hunter. After spending the previous day on stage introducing Dead & Company, Keilt created a meal for Trixie Garcia, daughter of Jerry, and Reya Hart, daughter of Mickey, at the family home of longtime friend and Sonoma County winemaker Phil Coturri Tuesday, August 5, 2025 in Sonoma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Jessie Bluebell Keilt stood on stage at Golden Gate Park looking out into a crowd of 60,000 people. “It was just a sea of dots,” recalls Keilt, a private chef who is accustomed to working behind the scenes in kitchens at homes and wineries. This was far from a typical day for her, but it wasn’t wholly unfamiliar either.

She shared the stage with several other grown children of the founding members of the Grateful Dead to introduce the final day of the Dead & Company shows in early August that marked 60 years of the band’s music and its indelible cultural impact, which is still felt here in Sonoma County in the bohemian spirit of community and acceptance that defines west county, especially.

Keilt’s father is the late Robert Hunter, who was a poet and lyricist for the Grateful Dead. Her mother is also an artist. Growing up in a home surrounded by poetry and art along with the music of her extended Grateful Dead family left Keilt wondering as a teen how she fit into this world of creative minds.

“I always had this feeling that I wasn’t an artist,” she says. “It wasn’t until I started cooking my own food that I realized there is art in food. It’s how I make art.”

Grateful Dead dinner
Private chef Jessie Keilt, daughter of Grateful Dead lyricist Robert Hunter, created a Dead-inspired meal at the family home of longtime friend and Sonoma County winemaker Phil Coturri Tuesday, Aug. 5, 2025, in Sonoma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

The Santa Rosa-based chef, who owns Blue Blossom Catering, says her mother was a huge inspiration for her in the kitchen, calling her mom “a bit of a culinary genius” who made meals with foraged wild foods such as rabbit, mushrooms, and stinging nettles when the family lived in England.

Foraging mushrooms is still one of Keilt’s favorite pastimes. She sources seafood from a fisherman friend, and her garden, tended by her husband and brimming now with heirloom tomatoes and berries, is a constant source of culinary inspiration. It’s where she turned when creating an early harvest season menu inspired, in part, by the Grateful Dead that she made for an intimate gathering of the band’s family and friends.

She spent a portion of her career as a chef cooking for several members of the band and their families, so chose local, seasonal dishes she knew they would enjoy, rooted to the place they continued to call home even though their fame afforded them the opportunity to live anywhere in the world.

“We live in a world of abundance here,” says Keilt. “Everything is juicy and peak and flavorful. What a lucky place to be.”

Find chef Jessie Keilt at blueblossomcatering.com.

Private chef Jessie Keilt is the daughter of Grateful Dead lyricist Robert Hunter. After spending the previous day on stage introducing Dead & Company, Keilt created a meal for Trixie Garcia, daughter of Jerry, and Reya Hart, daughter of Mickey, at the family home of longtime friend and Sonoma County winemaker Phil Coturri Tuesday, August 5, 2025 in Sonoma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Private chef Jessie Keilt’s heirloom tomato soup with grilled cheese “soldiers.” (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Heirloom Tomato Soup With Grilled Cheese Soldiers

Makes 8-10 servings

This course was created with a wink and nod to fans of the Grateful Dead. “Grilled cheese sandwiches are one thing you could rely on having outside of every show,” says Keilt. Trixie Garcia explains that was for reasons “purely economical — and there are a lot of vegetarians” as Deadheads sold the sandwiches to make a few bucks so they could follow the band to the next stop. Serve this soup with your favorite grilled cheese. Keilt cuts them into long, crustless strips called “soldiers” that are ideal for dipping.

2 ½-3 pounds fresh heirloom tomatoes (about 10-12 medium)

6 whole garlic cloves, peeled

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

½ cup unsalted butter (can substitute olive oil)

1 large yellow or white onion, diced

4 cups chicken stock

¼ cup fresh basil

1 tsp. dried oregano

¼ tsp. baking soda

½ cup heavy cream or Greek yogurt

Private chef Jessie Keilt is the daughter of Grateful Dead lyricist Robert Hunter. After spending the previous day on stage introducing Dead & Company, Jessie created a meal for Trixie Garcia, daughter of Jerry and Reya Hart, daughter of Mickey at the family home of longtime friend and Sonoma County winemaker Phil Coturri Tuesday, August 5, 2025 in Sonoma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Private chef Jessie Keilt makes grilled cheese for the Grateful Dead-inspired harvest dinner. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Preheat oven to 400 F. Place the tomatoes and garlic on a baking sheet lined with aluminum foil. Drizzle on the olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Stir with a large spoon or your hands to ensure everything is coated. Roast for 30 minutes then remove from the oven and set aside. Place the butter in a large heavy-bottomed pot. Melt the butter over medium-high heat then add the onions. Cook the onions until translucent and just starting to brown, about 10 minutes.

Add the chicken stock, basil, and oregano to the onions. Carefully add the roasted tomatoes and garlic along with all of the juices to the pot as well and stir to combine. Add in the baking soda and continue stirring. The mixture will bubble up for a moment and then settle. After the mixture has come to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer uncovered for 30 minutes.

Pour the soup in to a blender, or use an immersion blender, and puree it until nice and smooth. You may need to do this in batches depending on the size of your blender. Be careful on this step because the soup is hot. Return soup to the saucepan over low heat and stir in the heavy cream. Bring the soup back to a simmer while stirring; you don’t want it to boil. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper if needed. Serve with grilled cheese soldiers on the side.

Garnish ideas: Shredded Parmesan cheese, fresh basil or oregano, toasted sourdough bread.

Private chef Jessie Keilt is the daughter of Grateful Dead lyricist Robert Hunter. After spending the previous day on stage introducing Dead & Company, Keilt created a meal for Trixie Garcia, daughter of Jerry, and Reya Hart, daughter of Mickey, at the family home of longtime friend and Sonoma County winemaker Phil Coturri Tuesday, August 5, 2025 in Sonoma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Private chef Jessie Keilt’s fig and burrata salad with Champagne vinaigrette. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Fig and Burrata Salad With Champagne Vinaigrette

Makes 4 servings

This salad is a simple and delicious way to showcase end-of-season figs.

8 ounces mixed salad greens

10 figs, halved

1 tbsp. avocado oil

1 tbsp. butter

2 balls of burrata, halved

Edible flowers for garnish, optional

For the vinaigrette:

1 clove garlic

¼ cup Champagne vinegar

1 tbsp. Dijon mustard

1 tbsp. honey

1 tsp. fresh lemon juice

½ tsp. salt

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Private chef Jessie Keilt is the daughter of Grateful Dead lyricist Robert Hunter. After spending the previous day on stage introducing Dead & Company, Jessie created a meal for Trixie Garcia, daughter of Jerry, and Reya Hart, daughter of Mickey, at the family home of longtime friend and Sonoma County winemaker Phil Coturri Tuesday, August 5, 2025 in Sonoma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Jessie Keilt serves fig and burrata salad with Champagne vinaigrette at a Grateful Dead-inspired harvest dinner. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

First, make the vinaigrette. Place garlic in a mini food processor or blender and pulse until finely minced. Add the Champagne vinegar, mustard, honey, lemon juice, salt, and pepper and process until blended. Scrape down the sides, pour in the olive oil, and process until emulsified. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Store in an airtight container until ready to use.

In a large skillet, heat avocado oil over medium heat. Once oil is hot, add figs, cut side down, then the butter. Cook about 3-4 minutes until figs have caramelized some and given up some of their juices. Remove from heat.

Add salad greens to a large bowl and toss gently with 3-4 tablespoons of vinaigrette. Arrange the salad greens evenly among 4 plates and top with five figs each. Add a burrata ball half to each plate, drizzle with a bit more vinaigrette, and garnish with edible flowers, if desired.

Halibut at Grateful Dead harvest dinner
Private chef Jessie Keilt’s halibut with beurre blanc. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Halibut With Beurre Blanc

Makes 4 servings

Beurre blanc is a sauce that elevates most any dish and is especially good with our abundance of fresh seafood, but can be used with poultry and fresh vegetables as well. Chef Jessie Keilt served her halibut on a bed of roasted delicata squash and garnished with fresh microgreens.

1 ¼ pound halibut filets

Kosher salt

Freshly ground pepper

1 tbsp. olive oil

1 tbsp. butter

For the beurre blanc:

12 tbsp. cold, unsalted butter, cut into tablespoon-sized chunks

2 tbsp. dry white wine

2 tbsp. white wine vinegar

1/2 tbsp. shallot, minced

¼ tsp. kosher salt

1 pinch white pepper

¼ teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

Private chef Jessie Keilt is the daughter of Grateful Dead lyricist Robert Hunter. After spending the previous day on stage introducing Dead & Company, Keilt created a meal for Trixie Garcia, daughter of Jerry, and Reya Hart, daughter of Mickey, at the family home of longtime friend and Sonoma County winemaker Phil Coturri Tuesday, August 5, 2025, in Sonoma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Private chef Jessie Keilt’s halibut with beurre blanc, served with red wine. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

First, make the beurre blanc. In a medium saucepan bring wine and vinegar to a boil. Add shallots, salt, and pepper. Lower heat to a simmer and cook until most of the liquid has evaporated. There should be about 1 tbsp. liquid left. If you reduce too far, add 1/2 tbsp. of water to re-moisten.

Remove pan from heat. Whisk in 2 pieces of butter into the reduction. Set pan over low heat and continue whisking butter into sauce a chunk at a time, allowing each piece to melt before adding more. Remember to maintain low heat and never let the sauce come to a boil once the butter is added or the sauce will separate.

Remove sauce from heat and whisk in the lemon juice. Taste and adjust seasoning, then strain through a fine sieve into a bowl. Hold over low heat or, better, a warm water bath while you cook the fish.

Heat oil in a large skillet over high heat. Season halibut filets with salt and pepper to taste, and add to the pan and sear, adjusting heat so you get a deep golden brown sear. Reduce heat to medium high, add butter, and use a spatula to turn the filet over, cooking about 3-4 more minutes until the fish is just cooked through.

Spoon beurre blanc on serving plates, add halibut filets, spooning more sauce over them as desired.

Dessert at Grateful Dead dinner
Private chef Jessie Keilt’s panna cotta with strawberry coulis. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Panna Cotta With Strawberry Coulis

Makes 8 servings

Although we often think of strawberries as a spring fruit, their season lasts until the first rains of autumn. As if in a farewell to summer, strawberries will provide a final flush of fruit that Jessie Keilt turns into coulis and jam when the bounty is more than she can eat fresh.

“When your environment provides you with beautiful things you don’t want to be unappreciative,” she says. “Using them feels like a good way of saying thank you for what you get.”

For the Panna Cotta

1 ½ cups whole milk

1 packet (1/4 ounce) of unflavored gelatin powder (1 tbsp.)

6 tbsp. sugar

1 tbsp. pure vanilla extract or 1 vanilla bean, split open

2 ½ cups heavy cream

For the Strawberry Coulis

1 lb. fresh strawberries

½ cup sugar

1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice

Private chef Jessie Keilt is the daughter of Grateful Dead lyricist Robert Hunter. After spending the previous day on stage introducing Dead & Company, Keilt created a meal for Trixie Garcia, daughter of Jerry, and Reya Hart, daughter of Mickey, at the family home of longtime friend and Sonoma County winemaker Phil Coturri Tuesday, August 5, 2025 in Sonoma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Private chef Jessie Keilt prepares to serve dessert at a Grateful Dead-inspired harvest dinner. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Place the milk in a small bowl and sprinkle the gelatin over the top. Stir well and set aside to bloom for about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare an ice bath in a bowl or deep-sided baking dish by adding water and ice to about halfway up the sides of a small saucepan.

In a small saucepan, combine the cream, sugar, and vanilla extract or vanilla bean and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from the heat and whisk in the softened gelatin/milk mixture. If using vanilla beans, scrape the seeds into the mixture and discard the pod.

Set the saucepan in the ice bath (making sure the top of the pan is well above the surface of the water), and whisk until the mixture is lukewarm. Rub the mixture between your fingers. There should be no grit from undissolved sugar or gelatin. Pour the mixture into 8 individual ramekins and let cool, uncovered until no longer warm.

Rinse the strawberries in cold water and remove the stems. Add berries, sugar, and lemon juice to a saucepan over medium heat and bring to a boil, stirring often. Turn the burner to low and allow mixture to simmer for  10 minutes. Turn off heat, and using a blender, puree the mixture into a smooth sauce. It should coat the back of a spoon. Strain the coulis to remove the seeds and allow to cool. The coulis can be made up to 3 days ahead and stored, covered, in the refrigerator.

To serve: Top panna cotta with a couple of tablespoons of the coulis. Garnish with more fresh berries of your choice.

The Best Tacos in Sonoma County, According to Our Dining Editor

A plate of tacos includes four types: al pastor, veggie, fish, and shrimp, at El Roy’s Express Mex truck No. 2 on Santa Rosa Avenue in Santa Rosa, on Thursday, July 11, 2024. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)

Whether as fuel for the crushpad, for a hike or for harvesting in the garden, tacos are a classic. Narrowing down a list of Sonoma’s best tacos feels like a near impossibility, but here’s a great first try for the warmth of early fall.

Did I miss a favorite local taco shop? Tell me your faves!

Best of the Best

Quiote Mexican Restaurant

These handmade blue corn tortillas — topped with fresh rock cod, cochinita pibil with pickled onions, or al pastor and salsa verde — are at the top of my list. Add a side of guacamole with serrano chiles and crispy raspadas or brothy Rancho Gordo beans. 121 Kentucky St., Petaluma. 707-774-6130, quiotemx.com

Tacos from Quiote
Short Rib Barbacoa Tacos from Quiote in downtown Petaluma, Friday, Sept. 8, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Best Fish Tacos

El Molino Central

Beer-battered fish tacos with salsa de arbol and avocado-lime mayo are the best around. Crispy beef brisket tacos with sour cream, avocado and pickled escabeche are also a can’t-miss. 11 Central Ave., Sonoma. 707-939-1010, elmolinocentral.com

Community Spirit

Galvan’s Eatery

Seeing the long lines for these brothers-owned food trucks is always heartwarming because they truly believe in the food they’re sharing with the community. My favorites are the messy, gooey quesabirria and crispy carnitas. Weekly stops listed online at Instagram.com/galvanseatery.

Omar Galvan delivers an order from the pickup window at Galvan’s Eatery in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
Omar Galvan delivers an order from the pickup window at Galvan’s Eatery in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
tacos at Sonoma Eats
Potato tacos at Sonoma Eats restaurant in Sonoma. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
Oaxacan Style

Sonoma Eats

Chef Efrain Balmes makes the best Oaxacan food in Sonoma County, infused with his heart and soul. Best bets include Baja fish tacos and potato tacos. 18133 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma. 707-343-1141, sonoma-eats.com

All Together

Mitote Food Park

You’ll be hard pressed to find a bad taco at this Roseland collective. Favorites include quesabirria from Gio y Los Magos, mushroom tacos from Lucha Sabina, huitlacoche at Antojitos Victoria and cochinita pibil at Mami’s Panuchos. 100 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa. mitotefoodpark.com

Jose Cazares, right, owner of the Gio y Los Magos Mexican Grill truck holding a plate of birria tacos during the ribbon cutting celebration of the new Mitote Food Park on Sebastopol Road in the Roseland neighborhood of Santa Rosa, Calif. on Thursday, July 14, 2022. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)
Jose Cazares, right, owner of the Gio y Los Magos Mexican Grill truck holding a plate of birria tacos at Mitote Food Park on Sebastopol Road in the Roseland neighborhood of Santa Rosa, on Thursday, July 14, 2022. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)
El Roy's tacos
A plate of tacos includes four types: shrimp, fish, veggie, and al pastor, at El Roy’s Express Mex truck No. 2 on Santa Rosa Ave., in Santa Rosa, on Thursday, July 11, 2024. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)
On the Road

El Roy’s

Between their multiple food trucks and a Petaluma brick-and-mortar, these tasty tacos are practically everywhere you need them to be. Convenient and always a good bet on the run. 602 Elsa Drive, Santa Rosa and food trucks in Petaluma and Santa Rosa. eatelroys.com

Street Food Classics

El Fogon

Though not technically a taco, the epic Machete — a forearm-length corn tortilla filled with meat (al pastor!), cheese, sour cream, tomato and cilantro — is a favorite. The focus on Mexican street classics makes this a great lunch stop or casual dinner. 623 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-575-0574, elfogonca.com

El Fogon machete
Machete dish at El Fogon Taco Shop in Santa Rosa on Friday, April 14, 2023. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
Tacos al Pastor from Cielito Lindo restaurant in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Tacos al Pastor from Cielito Lindo restaurant in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Heavenly Al Pastor

Cielito Lindo

The very best versions of al pastor feature a pineapple atop the rotisserie, dripping sweet juices onto the meat. There are no shortage of local options, both spit-grilled or griddled, but Cielito Lindo is one of the best. 52 Mission Circle, Santa Rosa. Instagram.com/cielitolindosantarosa

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

Healdsburg’s Historic Foppiano Vineyards Enters New Era With Modern Tasting Room

The newly remodeled Foppiano Vineyards & Winery tasting room Thursday, September 18, 2025 in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

For nearly six decades, Foppiano Vineyards has been known for its hearty Petite Sirah. Now, with new owners at the helm, the Russian River Valley winery is moving in a fresh direction with an expanded lineup of wines and a modernized tasting room.

The story

Giovanni Foppiano landed in New York from his native Genoa in 1855 and headed to California in search of gold. Striking it rich as a miner didn’t pan out — so to speak — and in 1896, he bought an 80-acre farm south of Healdsburg and became a supplier of bulk wines.

During Prohibition, Foppiano Wine Company pivoted to growing grapes for home winemaking kits. In 1926, the feds raided the farm and famously dumped 100,000 gallons of bootleg wine into a nearby creek. After the Repeal, Louis J. Foppiano — the founder’s grandson — began bottling wines under the Foppiano label. In 1967, as varietal wines gained favor over jug wines, Foppiano introduced its now-iconic Petite Sirah.

Petite Sirah vineyards at Foppiano Vineyards in Healdsburg. (Sonoma County Tourism)
There are 40 acres of Petite Sirah vineyards at Foppiano Vineyards in Healdsburg. (Sonoma County Tourism)

Louis J.’s son, Louis M. Foppiano, joined the business in the 1970s and ran the winery for nearly five decades. In 2024, he sold Foppiano Vineyards to Courtney Benham of CMB Wines, which also owns Martin Ray Vineyards & Winery in Santa Rosa and Vina Robles in Paso Robles.

Benham has since embarked on a significant revamp of the Foppiano estate, including the long-neglected production facility, which is now used for aging and storage. (Benham jokes that the wall-sized 24,000-gallon concrete vats are the only things holding up the building.) He’s also replanting the 130-acre estate vineyards to modern spacing and adding varieties such as Vermentino. Forty acres of Petite Sirah, planted in 1970, will remain.

The vibe

After a yearlong makeover, Foppiano’s formerly dark-and-dated tasting room has a bright new look. The compact space now features contemporary sofa and bar seating, with gleaming copper pendant lights overhead. Sliding glass walls open onto a refreshed patio, which includes a pergola for shade and tables overlooking the Petite Sirah vineyard. New landscaping and picnic spots invite visitors to hang out and play lawn games while they sip. Once the permits are approved, the winery will add a kitchen and begin cooking pizzas in its outdoor wood-fired oven. In the meantime, Foppiano offers picnic and charcuterie add-ons from Costeaux French Bakery in Healdsburg.

The newly remodeled Foppiano Vineyards & Winery tasting room Thursday, September 18, 2025 in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The newly remodeled Foppiano Vineyards & Winery tasting room Thursday, Sept. 18, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Foppiano Vineyards tasting room
Damy Tamburrino pours wine for locals Dan Procopenko, right, and Rick Haggstrom in the newly remodeled tasting room Thursday, Sept. 18, 2025, at Foppiano Vineyards & Winery in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

On the palate

Foppiano’s signature Petite Sirah is famous for a reason — it’s a very good wine — but at a time when consumer palates are leaning toward lighter, less heavy-handed styles, the winery is expanding its portfolio and putting more focus on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The 2024 Vermentino ($40) is a fun and fresh wine with peachy notes and a crisp finish. The savory 2024 Skin Contact Chardonnay ($40), with its pale salmon color and soft tannic structure, is an interesting twist on your typical California Chardonnay. The 2021 Estate Petite Sirah from the Russian River Valley ($32) has a deep purple color, aromas of toasty oak, and flavors of blue and black fruits. Tastings cost $25-$30.

Beyond the bottle

In these uncertain times, we could all use more silliness and joy. That calls for dogs in Halloween costumes! On Oct. 25, from 2-4:30 p.m., Foppiano will host Yappy-Howl-Oween, with prizes for the best dog and human get-ups, and a special award for the finest human-dog duo. Admission, including one glass of wine, costs $11 for humans and $5 for competing pups. Wine-friendly frankfurters are five bucks each. Event proceeds support the Paws for Love Foundation, an organization that provides care and rescue services for animals in need.

Open from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. Foppiano Vineyards, 12707 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg, 707-433-7272, foppiano.com

Tina Caputo is a wine, food, and travel journalist who contributes to Sonoma magazine, SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, Northern California Public Media, KQED, and more. Follow her on Bluesky at @winebroad.bsky.social, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.

Apple Growers Seek Answers About the Original Gravenstein

Dan Lehrer, a co-owner of Little Apple Treats, has compared horticultural drawings of Sebastopol Gravenstein apples, this one from an orchard in Virginia in 1909, while researching the origins and spread of our beloved local fruit Thursday July 24, 2025. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

You blinked and now the Gravenstein is gone. Already harvested, processed, and celebrated with a glorious town fair, consumed in pies, fritters, ciders, and sauces.

It seems like just the other day banners went up in downtown Sebastopol: “Gravensteins Are Coming.” The annual reminders, hung by Slow Food Russian River revivalists, were quickly replaced by “Gravensteins Are Here” banners.

It’s the reason Luther Burbank once said, “If the Gravenstein could be had throughout the year, no other apple need be grown.”

So it goes with the early ripeners, the messy harbingers of a new season that drop around a third of their fruit before harvest. Their window is short. They don’t last long on the counter. It’s why they never made it as a market fresh apple.

Another way of looking at it: “If an apple were a rainbow, it would be a Gravenstein. It’s there, it’s beautiful, and then it’s gone.” That’s how Sebastopol apple grower Dan Lehrer describes it.

But however fleeting it may be, the Gravenstein is still ours. In Sonoma County, we are very possessive and protective of the Grav. It’s not just the inspiration for the annual Gravenstein Apple Fair, and the namesake of a winding highway and elementary school — it’s a touchstone to another era, well before 1910, when people lined up around the block for the first “Gravenstein Apple Show” under a tent, when our “Grandfather of the Gravenstein” Nathaniel Griffith planted his orchard in 1883 off Laguna Road.

apple farmer Nathaniel Griffith
Nathaniel Griffith, the apple farmer who introduced the Gravenstein apple to the Sebastopol area in the late 1800s. (Western Sonoma County Historical Society)
The home of Nathaniel Griffith off Laguna Road in Sebastopol. The house was burned and no longer exists. Griffith was an apple farmer who introduced the Gravenstein apple to the Sebastopol area at Vine Hill in 1890. (Western Sonoma County Historical Society)
The home of Nathaniel Griffith off Laguna Road in Sebastopol. The house was burned and no longer exists. Griffith was an apple farmer who introduced the Gravenstein apple to the Sebastopol area in the 18o0s. (Western Sonoma County Historical Society)

But what if there was another apple out there parading as a Gravenstein? Or maybe a mix-up at birth back in the 17th century, possibly at a royal garden in Denmark. What if there were two very different apples propagating around the world as Gravensteins? It begs the question: Which one is the imposter?

Don’t be alarmed. At this point, it’s only a theory (or scientifically, a hypothesis). One that started in the summer of 2009 as a curious Lehrer strolled the stalls of a Portland farmers market. Whenever he’s traveling, he always checks out the apples for sale.

“There was a guy selling Gravensteins and it was a totally different apple,” he remembers.

Having eaten “thousands” of Gravensteins over the years, Lehrer told the market seller, “That’s not a Gravenstein. And he’s like, ‘Yeah it is.’ I said, ‘No, it’s not.’ And he said, ‘Yeah, it is.’”

So it went, back and forth. Lehrer took a closer look. The most obvious clue was that “it was oblong and very blocky,” he remembers, in contrast to the more squat, round Gravenstein apple that grows in Sonoma County.

It got him thinking. Although apples are known to produce genetic mutations called “sports” and vary some depending on climate and location, why would there be two such distinctly different Gravensteins? Back home at his 22-acre orchard, where he and his wife, Joanne Krueger, make award-winning apple cider vinegar and other delectables as part of their business, Little Apple Treats, Lehrer spread out his collection of antiquarian apple books on the dining room table. A journalism major at UC Berkeley, he loves a good research project.

He flipped through Edward Wickson’s 1926 book “California Fruits and How to Grow Them,” seeing a description of the Gravenstein as “large, rather flattened.” Other books seemed to concur. But in “The Apple Book,” British apple historian Rosanne Sanders describes the Gravenstein as “oblong, well pronounced ribs running from base to apex” and “rather five-crowned at apex.” Looking at an accompanying drawing, Lehrer says, “This was the apple I saw in Portland.”

Dan Lehrer, a co-owner of Little Apple Treats, has collected historical books on apples from around the world and believes there is a second “Nova Scotia” variety of Sonoma County's much loved Gravenstein Apple Thursday July 24, 2025 in Sebastopol. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Dan Lehrer, a co-owner of Little Apple Treats, has collected historical books on apples from around the world and believes there is a second “Nova Scotia” variety of Sonoma County’s much loved Gravenstein Apple, Thursday, July 24, 2025, in Sebastopol. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Slow Food International, the global grassroots organization promoting sustainable local food systems and traditional foods, with chapters all over the world, has added the Gravenstein to its Ark of Taste, a catalog of “endangered heritage foods.” On its website, there are pages devoted to two different strains of Gravensteins — the Nova Scotia Gravenstein and the Sebastopol Gravenstein.

Paula Shatkin and Carole Flaherty, cheerleaders for the Gravenstein at Slow Food Russian River, said they were not aware of the Nova Scotia version, both admitting they were much more interested in raising awareness about the Gravenstein’s steady decline than distinguishing between variations. They’re more worried about Manzana Products Co. pulling up stakes and leaving town next year, taking with it the last large-scale apple processing plant in the region, and bidding a final farewell to the days when Gravenstein was king.

According to Slow Food International, in Nova Scotia the green versions are often called “Old-Fashioned Gravensteins” to distinguish them from newer red strains, sometimes called Banks Gravensteins and Crimson Gravensteins. Aside from color descriptions, Slow Food doesn’t detail other physical characteristics — particularly shape and size — of the two different types of Gravensteins. But Michelle Cortens, fruit tree expert at Perennia Food and Agriculture in Kentville, Nova Scotia, said the Gravensteins typically found in Nova Scotia are “definitely a rounder squat apple and not oblong.”

Dan Lehrer, a co-owner of Little Apple Treats, sees the perfect shape of a Sebastopol Gravenstein apple Thursday July 24, 2025 in a line drawing from the book “American Fruit Culturist” published in 1849. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Dan Lehrer, a co-owner of Little Apple Treats, sees the perfect shape of a Sebastopol Gravenstein apple Thursday July 24, 2025, in a line drawing from the book “American Fruit Culturist,” published in 1849. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

The Gravenstein origin story has meandered over the years, but one of the most cited versions is that it was discovered in the garden of the Duke of Augustenberg’s Grasten (“Gravenstein” in German) Palace in mid-1600s Germany, what is now southern Denmark. One of the earliest known descriptions of the Gravenstein is by German academic Christian C.L. Hirschfeld, who wrote that the apple may have originated in Italy, under the name Ville Blanc.

Hirschfeld also wrote about an avid apple grower on a nearby island, Peter Vothmann, whose son, Hans Peter, apprenticed in the garden at Grasten. In researching the history of the Gravenstein, Darlene Hayes, Sebastopol author of “Apple Tales: Stories from the Orchard,” dug up writings by Nicolai Vothmann, son of Hans Peter, who described how apples in his nursery, descendants from the original Gravenstein estate, had begun to change over the years, possibly due to mutations. “In my garden there are still two mother trees, around 60 years old, which my father threaded and planted himself from the mother trees mentioned earlier in Gravenstein’s garden, the most beautiful fruits in their youth, bright yellow, only a little on the sunny side reddish, ribbed and elongated in shape. Now these patriarchs bear nothing but round fruits, heavily shaded with red, which are also noticeably tougher in their flesh than they were.”

It seems he witnessed the variability that Lehrer saw in Portland — in effect starting with a yellow-green oblong shape, then mutating years later into a rounder, redder sport, something like the red Gravenstein we know today.

So how did both types arrive on the West Coast with one more prominent in Oregon and the other dominant in Sonoma County? Over the years, it has been widely reported by local historians and apple growers that Sonoma County’s Gravenstein likely descended from trees first planted by Russian settlers at Fort Ross as early as 1812. One possible scenario is that after the Gravenstein first sprouted in what is Denmark today, word spread about its sweet-tart flavor as a delicious source for pies and ciders, it began popping up at different markets in Europe — and mutations of the apple took root in different regions. One redder, rounder strain might have migrated eastward into Russia and landed at Fort Ross, where it became the Sebastopol Gravenstein.

Meanwhile, around the same time, another Gravenstein sport from Denmark traveled westward, through England and to the Northeastern United States.

So how did the East Coast or Nova Scotia version, that Lehrer might have seen in Portland, wind up in Oregon? Most likely the Oregon Trail. Jeannie Berg, former owner of Queener Farms in Scio, Oregon, just east of Willamette Valley, shared several pages of research she did at the Oregon Historical Society, showing that pioneer farmer Henderson Luelling brought Gravenstein trees to Oregon in his “Traveling Nursery” in 1847.

Stan Devoto checks a Graventstein apple tree
Stan Devoto checks a Graventstein apple tree for ripeness in his Sebastopol orchard Tuesday, Aug. 5, 2025, where he planted over 100 varieties in nearly 50 years of farming. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Sebastopol apple grower Stan Devoto has seen variations beyond what he calls “the standard Gravenstein,” which is green with red stripes, and the red Gravenstein, with a more solid red color, often ripening a little earlier. There’s the Rosebrook Gravenstein (that looks like the standard but with more stripes), ripening a week later than both. Devoto also has a friend who grafted a sport that ripens later in September and named it the Bonner Gravenstein.

But more interesting is a late-ripening Gravenstein that his neighbor Randy Roberts grows. It looks almost like a red delicious with points at the bottom, he says. “And gosh darn, it tastes like a Jonagold.”

Conversations with Oregon growers confirm the wide range of Gravenstein variability in the Pacific Northwest. “The vast majority of our Gravensteins end up having more of a squarish shape to them, with kind of straight sides and a little bit taller,” says Christina Fordyce, current owner of Queener Farms. They call the green ones “traditional Gravensteins.” They’re “a little more tart” and ripen just before the red Gravensteins.

“It wouldn’t surprise me at all if some of the Gravensteins that people have up here in the Pacific Northwest do taste different or look different than the ones that are so famous down in Sonoma, because of climate differences and growing conditions, and the genetic mutations that happen over the decades,” Fordyce says.

Third-generation apple grower Randy Kiyokawa, owner of Kiyokawa Family Orchards in Parkdale, Oregon, says he sells both green and red Gravenstein varieties at farmer’s markets around the state, including several in Portland, possibly where Lehrer first encountered the suspect Gravenstein. Kiyokawa has seen tall ones and smaller round ones. They tend to vary, he says. “Let me know if you find out we don’t have Gravensteins,” he says with a laugh, offering to send a few samples in the mail. “We might have to rename them.”

At this point, DNA fingerprinting might be the only way to solve the mystery. But fully mapping the DNA of a Gravenstein apple is tricky because it’s a triploid variety, which basically means it has three sets of chromosomes, unlike many other diploid apples with two sets of chromosomes like humans, says Rachel Spaeth, a Santa Rosa research horticulturist who studies the genetic makeup of rare fruits.

Her best guess? “I would say the Gravenstein was probably bred in Germany, or somewhere in the middle of Europe, and then it probably went off in two different directions, as somebody got a seedling or a bud sport. And it’s really interesting that it made it around the globe two different ways, and then connected on the West Coast. I think they’re probably two different apples, but maybe they share parentage.”

Graventstein apples
Graventstein apples are just a week away from harvest Tuesday, Aug. 5, 2025, in Stan Devoto’s Sebastopol orchard. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Fortunately, many Gravensteins throughout the West Coast have already been genetically fingerprinted at the Washington Tree Fruit Genotyping Laboratory, which receives test samples from the public at MyFruitTree.org. Cameron Peace, Washington State University professor of fruit tree genetics, has tested multiple trees from northern California and western Washington and Oregon and he says they all have “the usual Gravenstein DNA profile.”

He has not tested Gravensteins from Nova Scotia, but believes the Sonoma County Gravenstein is a sport commonly known as red Gravenstein. His guess is that the observed differences are “phenotypic differences among sports,” referring to the effects of the environment, like soil and climate, noting that DNA technology can’t differentiate among sports of a cultivar because they produce the same DNA profile.

Digging deeper would likely require whole genome sequencing, which Spaeth says, “would elucidate differences, but the price point difference might be prohibitive.”

In the meantime, “at least people are talking about Gravensteins,” says Carole Flaherty, who tends around 200 apple trees, including several “beautiful red Gravensteins” planted in 1915. She also leads Slow Food Russian River’s Save Our Orchards project. “People need to know what danger our orchards are in.” That applies to all Gravensteins, she says, whether green or red or candy-striped, whether short and squat or tall and “squarish,” whether ribbed with shoulders or no shoulders at all.

But Lehrer remains intrigued, still sleuthing in the archives, looking forward to the next time he spots another bizarro Gravenstein. “The mystery is like a set of Russian nesting dolls,” he says. “Open one and another appears inside.”

The Best Pumpkin Spice Lattes and Sweet Treats in Sonoma County

Pumpkin spice lattes from Black Oak Coffee Roasters
Pumpkin spice lattes, iced and hot, from Black Oak Coffee Roasters in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Black Oak Coffee Roasters)

Whether “pumpkin-spice season” evokes autumnal bliss or exasperated groans, it’s hard to deny the appeal of comforting fall flavors like cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger.

Crafty Sonoma County bakers and baristas are selling a wide assortment of creative pumpkin-infused drinks and treats this season, from quintessential pumpkin spice lattes to imaginative pumpkin scones, cheesecakes and ice cream.

Here are over 25 local spots that are offering delicious pumpkin spice drinks and dishes this season.

Santa Rosa

Salt & Straw's Pumpkin Spiced Brownie Sundae
Pumpkin Spiced Brownie Sundae, made with Chocolate Gooey Brownie ice cream, dark chocolate sauce, whipped cream and chocolate sprinkles in a pumpkin spiced waffle bowl, from Salt & Straw. (Salt & Straw)

Salt & Straw

Santa Rosa’s newest ice cream shop recently launched its Pumpkin Spiced Brownie Sundae alongside a pumpkin-spiced waffle cone just in time for fall. The sundae is made with Chocolate Gooey Brownie ice cream, dark chocolate sauce, whipped cream and chocolate sprinkles in a pumpkin-spiced waffle bowl. The cone was made in partnership with spice company Diaspora Co. 700 Village Court, Santa Rosa, 707-360-6349, saltandstraw.com

Brew Coffee and Beer House

The cozy Brew cafe has brought back its seasonal pumpkin spice latte, a comforting and robust drink embellished with festive latte art. The pumpkin spice syrup is made in-house with fresh ingredients. New at Brew this year is a moist, pumpkin-flavored baked oatmeal. 555 Healdsburg Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-303-7372, brewcoffeeandbeer.com

Criminal Baking Co.

Criminal Baking offers a rich pumpkin cheesecake (available in mini, 6- or 9-inch sizes) made with house-baked pumpkins. 808 Donahue St., Santa Rosa, 707-888-3546, criminalbakingcompany.com

Crooks Coffee

It’s fitting that this Edgar Allan Poe-themed coffee shop always has a festive lineup of fall drinks for spooky season. While its autumn menu has yet to be released, expect to find seasonal favorites like the classic pumpkin spice latte, white pumpkin pie latte and cold brew with pumpkin spice foam. Past fall bites have included pumpkin bread and pumpkin pie scones. 404 Mendocino Ave., Suite C, Santa Rosa, 707-791-3365, shadyraveninc.com

Crook's Pumpkin pie chai latte
Pumpkin pie chai latte includes spicy chai, pumpkin pie syrup, espresso, milk and is topped with cinnamon, from Crooks Coffee in Santa Rosa. (Mya Constantino)
Johnny Doughnuts
A selection of fall doughnuts from Johnny Doughnuts in Santa Rosa. (Johnny Doughnuts)

Johnny Doughnuts

For fall, Johnny Doughnuts has brought back its fan-favorite pumpkin brown butter cake doughnut, a fluffy spiced pumpkin cake with a brown butter glaze. It’s a perfect coffee companion for chilly fall mornings. The local doughnut chain also has a pumpkin chai and old fashioned pumpkin latte on its menu. 1200 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-308-4836, johnnydoughnuts.com

Blondie’s Bakery Boutique

The cutesy downtown bakery has on its menu a pumpkin pie cupcake, filled with pumpkin mousse and topped with cream cheese frosting and a toasted pumpkin crumble. 404 Mendocino Ave., Suite A, Santa Rosa, 707-843-7335, blondiesbakeryboutique.com

Land and Water Coffee

Seasonal drinks at this locals’ favorite coffee shop include a pumpkin spice latte and pumpkin chai latte. 1301 Cleveland Ave., Suite B, Santa Rosa, 707-527-3725; 621 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-527-3731, landandwater.coffee

Nothing Bundt Cakes

This bakery chain has a lineup of pumpkin spice items available on its menu through Dec. 7, including cakes, bundtlets and bundtinis, all of which can be decorated for holidays and special occasions. 266 Coddingtown Center, Santa Rosa, 707-708-4800, nothingbundtcakes.com

Petaluma

Stellina Pronto Pumpkin cheesecake
Pumpkin cheesecake from Stellina Pronto in Petaluma. (Stellina Pronto)

Stellina Pronto

Quaint Italian bakery and cafe Stellina Pronto has a whole New York-style pumpkin cheesecake on its regular menu for those who want a taste of fall year-round. Stay tuned for other seasonal treats, like pumpkin ricotta tarts. 23 Kentucky St., Petaluma, 707-789-9556, stellinapronto.com

Pink Owl Coffee

Located near the Whole Foods in Petaluma, Pink Owl offers a pumpkin spice latte flavored with pumpkin syrup and “a hint of pumpkin pie dust” on its specials menu. Pumpkin spice syrup can be added to most drinks. 617 E. Washington St., Petaluma, 707-658-2274, pinkowlcoffee.com

Petaluma Pie Company has delicious individual pies. (Courtesy Petaluma Pie Company)
Petaluma Pie Company has delicious individual pies. (Petaluma Pie Company)

Petaluma Pie Company

Come autumn, it’s nearly impossible to go wrong with a traditional pumpkin pie. Petaluma Pie Company takes it a step further with its maple pumpkin pie, crafted with organic pumpkin, vanilla, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, brown sugar and maple syrup. 125 Petaluma Blvd. N., Suite B, Petaluma, 707-766-6743, petalumapiecompany.com

Petaluma Brunch Station

This all-day brunch spot has pumpkin pancakes on its menu. Make it a combo with two eggs cooked to order and a side of meat (bacon or sausage). 732 E. Washington St., Petaluma, 707-762-4095, thebrunchstation.com

The Bagel Mill

The Petaluma bagel shop is selling pumpkin spice lattes and chai lattes made with housemade pumpkin spice syrup from local, organic sugar pie pumpkins. There’s also pumpkin-spice cream cheese, sold by the half pint, made with sugar-pie pumpkins, brown sugar and warm fall spices. 212 Western Ave., Petaluma, 707-981-8010, thebagelmill.com

Crumbl

A pumpkin cake cookie is among the specials on this national cookie darling’s fall menu — a warm, fluffy pumpkin-spiced cookie topped with cream cheese frosting and a sprinkle of mini semisweet chocolate chips. 179 N. McDowell, Petaluma, 707-238-2351, crumblcookies.com

Rohnert Park

Squatch’s Gourmet Ice Cream Sandwiches and Coffee

The cafe and ice cream shop is currently offering a pumpkin cheesecake ice cream sandwich, or “Squatch,” made with snickerdoodle cookies and graham crackers. The “Spooky Squatch,” a festive Halloween-themed ice cream sandwich, features pumpkin ice cream between chocolate-chocolate chip cookies and coated in Halloween sprinkles. Squatch’s also offers a rich pumpkin spice latte (available in “big foot” and “little foot” sizes). 1451 Southwest Blvd., Suite 111, Rohnert Park, 707-992-0841, squatchscoffee.com

Sebastopol

Society Bakery and Cafe

For coffee and tea fans alike, this quaint bakery cafe offers both a pumpkin spice latte and a pumpkin chai latte, made with fall spices and housemade pumpkin syrup (available in the fall and winter). These hot drinks pair nicely with the pumpkin maple cake and the often-out-of-stock pumpkin cinnamon roll. Also, 9-inch pumpkin cheesecakes are available in November and December. 2661 Gravenstein Highway S., Sebastopol, 707-861-9665, societybakerycafe.com

Muir’s Tea Room

At Muir’s annual Black Hat Society High Tea, available from Oct. 4 through Oct. 26, find the Harvest Moon Pumpkin Scone, served with housemade lemon curd, clotted “cream” and imported English preserves. Stay tuned for other vegan fall specials like pumpkin cupcakes, pumpkin crinkle cookies, pumpkin pie and pumpkin muffins. 330 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-634-6143, muirstearoomandcafe.com

Retrograde Coffee Roasters

The pumpkin spice latte at Retrograde is made with real pumpkin puree, so you know you’re getting an authentic touch of fall produce. It’s pretty much hot pumpkin pie in a cup. There’s also a pumpkin spice cold brew on the menu, sweetened with housemade vanilla syrup and topped with pumpkin spice cold foam. 130 S. Main St., Suite 103, Sebastopol, 707-969-7234, retrograderoasters.com

Taylor Lane pumpkin spice latte
A pumpkin spice latte from Taylor Lane Organic Coffee in Sebastopol. (Taylor Lane)

Taylor Lane Organic Coffee

The cafe in The Barlow offers pumpkin spice lattes in fall, which pair perfectly with the seasonal pumpkin pecan scones. 6790 McKinley St., Suite 170, Sebastopol, 707-634-7129, taylorlane.com

Patisserie Angelica

The long list of dessert offerings at this Parisian-style bakeshop includes pumpkin pie and a spiced pumpkin cheesecake in a housemade graham cracker crust. 6821 Laguna Park Way, Sebastopol, 707-827-7998, patisserieangelica.com

Screamin’ Mimi’s Ice Cream

The ever-popular Screamin’ Mimi’s makes a pumpkin ice cream and pumpkin-spiced cappuccino ice cream, as well as its seasonal special pumpkin mud pie ice cream, which is like the fan-favorite chocolate Mimi’s Mud, but with pumpkin replacing the espresso ice cream. 6902 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol, 707-823-5902, screaminmimisicecream.com

Two Dog Night Creamery

Two Dog Night regularly changes its ice cream flavors with the season. Come October, be sure to find its organic pumpkin ice cream, as well as a pumpkin pie ice cream in November. 6760 McKinley St., Suite 110, Sebastopol, 707-823-9376, twodognightcreamery.com

Coffee & Moore

This Sebastopol coffee shop has a seasonal pumpkin latte, “ghostly” pumpkin latte (with white chocolate) and pumpkin cinnamon cold brew on its menu. Turn your morning cup of Joe into a dessert by making it a pumpkin latte shake. 6761 Sebastopol Ave., Suite 300, Sebastopol, 707-829-6600, coffeenmoore.com

Healdsburg

Pumpkin spice lattes from Black Oak Coffee Roasters
Pumpkin spice lattes, iced and hot, from Black Oak Coffee Roasters in Healdsburg. (Black Oak Coffee Roasters)

Black Oak Coffee Roasters

The fall menu at Black Oak will be released soon, and it’s sure to include the coffee shop’s highly favored pumpkin spice latte, made with scratch-made pumpkin sauce and fall spices. Also expect a refreshing pumpkin cold brew, lightly sweetened with vanilla and topped with a layer of housemade pumpkin cold foam, as well as other fall treats like spiced pumpkin muffins. 324 Center St., Healdsburg, 866-390-1427, blackoakcoffee.com

Costeaux French Bakery

Costeaux’s menu includes a classic pumpkin pie and a seasonal pumpkin cheesecake in a gingerbread cookie crust. Also, the Costeaux On The Go location in Santa Rosa (2266 Airport Blvd.) is offering an exclusive pumpkin spice latte with vanilla cold foam. 417 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-1913, costeaux.com

Quail & Condor Bakery

This New York Times-heralded bakery sells excellent breads and pastries — including some of the best croissants in Sonoma County. Last October, Quail & Condor featured miso-glazed pumpkin muffins on its menu, and they were so popular that we expect to see them again this year (or another equally delectable fall treat, like the former chocolate pumpkin croissant). Also, watch out for fall offerings from French-inspired sister restaurant Troubadour, like brown butter pumpkin financiers. 149 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-473-8254, quailandcondor.com

Dutch Door Donuts

Healdsburg’s new doughnut shop is currently offering a pumpkin spice latte and pumpkin white mocha latte. Order alongside the seasonal spiced apple doughnut or fan-favorite salted brown butter doughnut for a sweet fall treat. 109a Plaza St., Healdsburg, 707-473-8283, dutchdoordonuts.com

Kenwood

Pillowfight Coffee

Named after Kenwood’s historic World Pillow Fighting Championships, Pillowfight Coffee serves locally sourced coffee in addition to teas and matchas. The cafe uses syrups from Sonoma Syrup Company, and come fall, it breaks out the pumpkin syrup made with natural pumpkin puree, ginger, clove, allspice, vanilla, Indian nutmeg, and Vietnamese and Ceylon cinnamon. Grab a pumpkin spice latte to enjoy with a gluten-free muffin or the vegan banana bread. 8910 Sonoma Highway, Suite B12, Kenwood, pillowfight.coffee

Sonoma

Darling, an Ice Cream Shop

This Sonoma scoop shop rotates ice cream flavors monthly. While the October menu hasn’t been released yet, we expect to see former pumpkin-y faves like last year’s pumpkin Oreo ice cream and pumpkin brandy ice cream, made with brandy from Prohibition Spirits. 201 W. Napa St., Suite 6, Sonoma, 707-343-1482, darlingsonoma.com

Sunflower Caffé

The sunny Sonoma cafe’s menu currently features a pumpkin bread mini loaf, served with whipped espresso butter, as well as pumpkin spice lattes. 421 First St. W., Sonoma, 707-996-6645, sonomasunflower.com

Layla at MacArthur Place

The restaurant at MacArthur Place Hotel currently has a delicious selection of seasonal, pumpkin-y treats on its desert menu. Dishes include a fried pumpkin pie with mango sherbet and curried pineapple chutney; pumpkin ice cream sandwich with hot fudge and pistachio crunch; pumpkin tiramisu with salted pepitas and chocolate sorbet; and pumpkin toast with hibiscus pickled pears and brown butter pecan ice cream. 29 E. MacArthur St., Sonoma, 707-938-2929, macarthurplace.com

Sonoma Coast

Wild Flour Bread

The Freestone bake shop has a spiced pumpkin bread studded with walnuts, cranberries and candied ginger, resulting in a festive mashup of pumpkin pie and gingerbread flavors. 140 Bohemian Highway., Freestone, 707-874-2938, wildflourbread.com

Nom Nom Cakes

The Bodega Bay-based home bakery has fall specials such as a spiced pumpkin bread, pumpkin cake frosted with maple buttercream, traditional pumpkin pie spiced with nutmeg and ginger, and pumpkin cheesecake topped with brown sugar praline sauce. Place an order online for delivery or pickup in Bodega Bay. 390 Calle Del Sol, Bodega Bay, 805-350-0680, nomnombaking.com

The Birds Cafe

This coastal cafe has a cozy fall drink menu that includes a pumpkin spice latte and pumpkin cream chai topped with pumpkin cold foam. Both are great accompaniments to the pumpkin bread with a pumpkin glaze. 1407 Highway 1 Bodega Bay, 707-875-2900, thebirdscafe.com 

Multiple locations

A pumpkin spice latte from Plank’s Coffee in Healdsburg. The latte includes their roasted Pine Mountain espresso, organic-house made pumpkin spice syrup (ingredients: pumpkin, brown sugar, cane sugar, cinnamon cloves, ginger and nutmeg). (Planks Coffee)
A pumpkin spice latte from Plank’s Coffee. The latte includes their roasted Pine Mountain espresso and organic housemade pumpkin spice syrup. (Planks Coffee)

Plank Coffee

North county’s Plank Coffee offers a seasonal pumpkin spice latte, naturally flavored with organic pumpkin, brown and cane sugar, and fall spices (cinnamon, cloves, ginger and nutmeg), plus a double shot of house-roasted Pine Mountain Espresso. There’s nothing artificial-tasting or overly sweet in this special fall drink. 175 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-395-0572; 227 N. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale, 707-894-6187, plankcoffee.com

Noble Folk Ice Cream & Pie Bar

On the fall menu at this pie and ice cream shop is a pumpkin chocolate cheesecake. The cheesecake is filled in an Oreo crust and topped with a rich chocolate ganache and a sprinkle of cinnamon. There’s also a pumpkin chocolate ice cream, satisfying in any weather. 539 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-978-3392; 116 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707-395-4426, thenoblefolk.com

Angela’s Organic Ice Cream

On its extensive list of ice cream flavors, Angela’s has a creamy pumpkin cheesecake ice cream perfect for the fall season. It’s made with pumpkin puree, cream cheese and aromatic spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg and cardamom. Locations in Healdsburg, Petaluma and Forestville. angelasicecream.com

Avid Coffee

This local coffee chain offers a pumpkin latte made with pumpkin pie syrup from Sonoma Syrup Co. and topped with a sprinkle of cinnamon. Customers can also add pumpkin syrup to most drinks, like chai, mochas and cold brews. Pair any drink with the gluten-free pumpkin muffin. 21 Fourth St., Petaluma, 707-772-5117; 2365 Midway Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-595-5984, avidcoffee.com

As Fall Sets In, Here’s What To Do With the Last of Summer’s Tomatoes

Green unripe tomatoes hang on a tomato bush branch. (Iryna Boiko / Getty Images)

As fall sets in and summer’s harvest begins to wither and wane, we scramble to gather the last of our tomatoes, many still green, before the season’s first frost.

There are now several heirloom and hybrid varieties that are green when ripe, among them Striped Zebra, Emerald Evergreen, and Green Tiger. These are not the same as fall’s green tomatoes, still firm, unripe, and unlikely to fulfill their destiny.

Sicilians have a great approach, pulling out cherry tomato plants by their roots, hanging them upside-down outside in a protected area, and plucking them off the vine as they ripen.

This trick does not work for larger varieties, which should be enjoyed right away or preserved. Fried green tomatoes are ubiquitous and especially delicious when topped with a sphere of fresh chèvre and finished with cream. Fermenting them in a salt brine offers an extraordinary way to make salsas, sauces, and even bloody marys. Green tomato chutney is a compelling condiment with winter stews and braises.

Adding green tomatoes — cut in wedges and then halved — to your favorite stir-fry contributes a burst of bright acid. A combination of tomatoes, corn cut from the cob, cubed winter squash, green beans cut into 1-inch pieces, and minced shallots is both beautiful and luscious; add cooked, cubed chicken thighs, and voila!, dinner in minutes.

The days of gazpacho may be behind us, but green tomato soup is a delight, hot or chilled.

green tomatoes
Freshly picked green tomatoes are delightful in a green tomato soup, hot or chilled. (Miss_Alva / Getty Images)

Green Tomato Soup

Makes about 6 servings

– 4 tbsp. olive oil

– 1 large shallot, peeled and minced

– 3 garlic cloves, peeled, crushed, and minced

– 1 serrano chile, stemmed and minced

– Kosher salt

– 3 pounds green, unripe tomatoes, cored and chopped

– 3 cups chicken or vegetable stock, preferably homemade

– ½ cup crème fraîche or plain whole-milk yogurt

– Freshly ground black pepper

– Extra-virgin olive oil

– ½ cup shelled and roasted pumpkin seeds

– Green Tabasco or other green hot sauce

Put the olive oil into a large soup pot set over medium-low heat, add the shallot and sauté until it begins to soften and give off its aroma, about 7 to 8 minutes. Add the garlic and serrano, cook 2 minutes more, and season with a pinch of salt.

Add the tomatoes, stir, season lightly with salt, and add the stock. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to very low, and simmer gently for 15 minutes. Stir in the crème fraîche or yogurt, remove from the heat, cover, and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes.

Purée the soup using a blender or immersion blender. For a very smooth version, pass through a strainer after blending. If the soup is too thick for your taste, thin with stock or water.

Divide among soup plates or bowls, swirl olive oil on top, scatter with pumpkin seeds, add a few drops of Tabasco, and enjoy right away. Alternately, chill for at least 3 hours before serving.

Sebastopol’s Stellar A&M BBQ Expands Hours for Barbecue Fans

One of the best pitmasters around: Kris Austin of A&M BBQ in Sebastopol. (Kim Carroll / Sonoma Magazine)

Barbecue fans can slow their roll to A&M BBQ before they sell out. The popular Sebastopol barbecue spot will now stay open until 8 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday, and until 5 p.m. on Sunday.

While the ‘que used to sell out well before dinner, owner Kris Austin said he’s now making plenty more to feed the evening crowd — especially families looking for an easy supper pickup.

A&M BBQ barbecue
Texas Toast, cornbread muffins, pork ribs, links, brisket and tri-tip, barbecue chicken, baked beans, coleslaw and collard greens at A&M BBQ in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Pitmasters Kris Austin and Marvin McKinzy (who has since left A&M BBQ) teamed up last June to serve Lone Star-style, wood-smoked meats. Their signature: a seasoned dry rub instead of sauce, letting the perfect pink smoke rings shine on brisket, tri-tip and pork ribs, plus that crave-worthy bark and lacy bits of fat.

There’s usually a line when the doors open, but you can skip the wait by pre-ordering online at ambbqllc.com.
Find them at 495 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-799-2892.

Santa Rosa’s Rosso May Have New Owners, but the Food Is Just as Good

Fungi limone pizza at Rosso Pizzeria & Wine Bar in Santa Rosa on Tuesday, September 30, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

When Santa Rosa’s Rosso Pizzeria and Wine Bar closed its doors in March, it felt like the end of an era. Opened in 2009 by chef John Franchetti, formerly of Tra Vigne, and Kevin Cronin, the wood-fired pizza shop had built a loyal following with its focus on simple Italian cooking and seasonal, local ingredients. Franchetti insisted that everything — from dough to burrata — be made in-house.

But Rosso was too inimitable to go gently into that good night. Less than seven months later, the restaurant reopened under the ownership of John and Linda Ahmadi, a husband-and-wife team who previously ran Sandy’s Take and Bake Pizza. That last detail set off alarm bells in my head — was Rosso about to become another take-and-bake operation?

Happily, the answer is no. Rosso is very much itself again. The space and menu remain unchanged, many staff members have returned, and the food, for the most part, is just as good as you remember. Here’s my take.

Rosso pizza
Basu Slade slides a pizza onto a plate at Rosso Pizzeria & Wine Bar in Santa Rosa on Tuesday, Sept. 30, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

Tender veal and pork meatballs ($16) swim in a chunky tomato sugo as bright as the summer sun. The Caesar salad ($14) remains a garlic and Romaine lettuce powerhouse, complemented by lemon anchovy dressing and the gentle heat of Calabrian chili.

The Fungi di Limone pizza ($26) — a longtime favorite revered by my friend group — fell just short on a recent visit. The crust was still the blistered, wood-fired base Rosso fans will recognize, but there were too many thinly sliced mushrooms piled on top, detracting from the taleggio cheese’s hint of funk. A key finishing drizzle of citrusy lemon oil had accidentally been omitted, leaving the flavors somewhat muted. It was a rare misstep, but I will need to continue to investigate. Repeatedly and with gusto.

Rosso’s fried chicken with smashed potatoes and a sweet caramelized pancetta glaze ($27) continues to rank among my top 20 favorite meals in Sonoma County. Coated in arborio rice flour and fried crisp, the chicken remains juicy and flavorful. The smashed potatoes are loaded with butter and cream. It fulfilled every expectation, and we ate every morsel. Somebody may even have licked the plate.

Fried chicken and mashed potatoes at Rosso Pizzeria & Wine Bar in Santa Rosa on Tuesday, September 30, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
Fried chicken and mashed potatoes at Rosso Pizzeria & Wine Bar in Santa Rosa on Tuesday, Sept. 30, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

The burrata salad ($15) is difficult to judge fairly because Franchetti originally made the cheese by hand. His version, filled with creamy ricotta, was so good I’ve never met its match. Since his departure from the restaurant in 2015, the burrata has never been the same. The current iteration, served with sweet strawberry compote, prosciutto and balsamic glaze, is a nice starter, but the cheese leans more toward fresh mozzarella in texture.

I don’t envy the Ahmadis — reviving a restaurant with such a devoted following is a daunting task. Memory has a way of softening the negatives, leaving behind sugar-coated recollections of the past: Was that mushroom pizza really as great as I remembered?

Guests await their food in booths at Roso Pizzeria & Wine Bar in Santa Rosa on Tuesday, September 30, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
Guests await their food in booths at Roso Pizzeria & Wine Bar in Santa Rosa on Tuesday, September 30, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

No doubt, the soul of the restaurant remains intact. Artist Cheryl Chapman’s familiar illustrations still line the walls. The wine list continues to feature a strong mix of local and Italian selections. And new dishes, including eggplant Parmesan and desserts, are expected to debut soon. Best of all, longtime fans like us can once again gather at an old favorite, with eager forks and a sparkling glass of Lambrusco.

53 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-615-7893, rossopizzeria.com

Healdsburg’s Folia Bar & Kitchen Is as Expansive as Charlie Palmer’s Empire

Chocolate Sacher Torte from Folia Friday, September 19, 2025 in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Chef Reed Palmer can’t escape the obvious question about his new high-profile position as chef de cuisine of the new Folia Bar & Kitchen at Appellation Healdsburg.

Yes, he is the son of celebrity chef Charlie Palmer, and the luxury resort is the second of six culinary-focused properties co-founded by his father and industry veteran Christopher Hunsberger.

At just 27, the younger Palmer manages the daily operations of the 200-plus-seat restaurant, which features a sweeping open kitchen with a live-fire grill at its center. It’s a big job with big responsibilities, and Palmer isn’t short on guidance. His father, along with culinary director Thomas Bellec and executive chef David Intonato, is frequently on-site as the newly opened resort slides into its first month of operation.

But Palmer isn’t here to rest on his father’s reputation. “If anything, I have to prove myself more,” he said as his team prepared for dinner service on a recent Thursday afternoon.

Folia chef/owner Charlie Palmer, left, and his son/chef de cuisine Reed Friday, September 19, 2025 in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Folia chef/owner Charlie Palmer, left, and his son/chef de cuisine Reed Friday, Sept. 19, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park, Palmer also holds a degree in hospitality management from Cornell University. His culinary journey includes stints in the kitchens of Blue Hill at Stone Barns in New York, Amass in Copenhagen and Ilis in Brooklyn.

Raised in Healdsburg, Palmer chose to learn the ropes elsewhere before returning to the family business. He counts both his father and Matt Orlando, founder of Amass and a former chef de cuisine at Noma, considered one of the world’s best restaurants, as mentors.

Now back in his hometown, wandering through the raised garden beds outside Folia, Palmer maintains he’s still the same Cardinal Newman grad who once bussed tables at his dad’s restaurant.

The place

Folia Bar & Kitchen
The entrance to the dining room at Folia Friday, Sept. 19, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Folia Bar & Kitchen
The dining room at Folia Friday, Sept. 19, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Appellation Healdsburg is a striking example of country luxury on a grand scale. The resort features 108 guest rooms, two pools, a spa, an event center, classrooms, two bars, Folia restaurant and more than eight acres of landscaped grounds. These include ancient olive trees transplanted from Southern California, fruit trees, culinary gardens and even a small vineyard. Designed by Novato-based EDG Design, the enclosed property is in a class of its own with floor-to-ceiling windows, bespoke furniture and breathtaking views at every turn. The million-dollar sunset view from Andys Beeline Rooftop bar is worth experiencing.

The hotel’s layout underscores its culinary focus. Guests walk directly into the restaurant upon arrival, a deliberate gesture that sets the tone for the Appellation experience. From welcome canapés to edible spa botanicals (Meyer lemon, lavender, honey) to hands-on culinary classes, Charlie Palmer has curated an immersive food experience that celebrates Northern California’s agricultural bounty, past and present.

On a private tour, he highlights the specifics of his vision: the citrus trees he has selected for the property, the 150-year-old olive trees, and the baby Sauvignon Blanc vines that are yet to be trellised. Palmer also takes the time to highlight Folia’s open-hearth grill, along with a demonstration kitchen equipped with state-of-the-art audio and video technology. When it comes to the kitchen, however, he’s mostly hands off. Except for the waffle fries, those are all his.

The food

I expected the usual fine dining fare — aged duck, pâté and giant cuts of beef — at Folia. What I didn’t anticipate were the elementary school-style waffle fries. Never one to pass up a good fry, I ordered the fries and aioli with fennel pollen and garlic ($8) as a side dish. I was prepared for hoity-toity thin-cut Bouchon fries. I got Chick-fil-A.

Folia Bar & Kitchen
Classic Cheeseburger from the lunch menu at the bar/lounge from Folia Friday, Sept. 19, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

“I like as much caramelization as possible,” said Charlie Palmer, explaining the appeal of waffle fires, which offer extra surface area. Double-fried, they’re pretty extraordinary. They also make an appearance on the lunch menu alongside Reed Palmer’s cheeseburger — a truly memorable burger worth a return visit.

Though the restaurant serves three meals a day, dinner is really what you’re here for. The menu is a three-course prix fixe for $85, so that’s something to keep in mind. There are à la carte sides and snacks available, and a pared-down dinner menu in the bar and lounge.

The seasonal menu feels like a reasonable deal for $85. Like most Charlie Palmer restaurants, the focus is on New American cuisine, highlighting seasonal, locally sourced ingredients. More than lip service, the chefs are truly passionate about using whatever’s fresh from the garden that day.

Folia Bar & Kitchen
Folia Bread Service with Straus butter from Folia Friday, Sept. 19, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Start with complimentary housemade bread and a scoop of butter from the basketball-sized mound at the serving station. The brioche is outstanding. If you’re particularly snacky, the ‘Nduja Croquettes are light, crispy bites with a peppercorn kick.

Chef Shane McAnelly’s pasta tasting menu at Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen inspired several excellent dishes, with the best being the Creste di gallo Pomodoro, cock’s comb-shaped pasta with crisp guanciale, orange tomato and sweet corn.

Grilled Hog Island Oysters with smoked choron sauce from Folia Friday, September 19, 2025 in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Grilled Hog Island Oysters with smoked choron sauce from Folia Friday, Sept. 19, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

The black cod cioppino, with Manila clams, Bay squid, fennel and cranberry beans, has a hint of Sonoma County’s impending fall weather. Warm, rich and satisfying, it uses sustainable black cod from local waters. The olive oil-poached halibut is perfectly tender, served with tiny Japanese turnips, garlic and olives. The roasted duck breast was fine, though not a favorite — I prefer my duck rare with crackling skin. If you’re dining with a friend, there are several entrées for two, including a New York Strip ($35 supplement), whole fish or whole roasted chicken.

Desserts from executive pastry chef Nadim Bounoua rotate regularly, but a slice of lemon tart with mile-high meringue is a fun way to finish the meal. An extensive wine list will satisfy connoisseurs, complemented by signature cocktails. The Sweet Cerise ($20), with whiskey, pomegranate, ginger and lemon, was particularly impressive.

Lemon Meringue from Folia Friday, September 19, 2025 in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Lemon Meringue from Folia Friday, Sept. 19, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Le Mirage cocktail with Hanson vodka, lychee and rosehip lemon from Folia Friday, September 19, 2025 in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Le Mirage cocktail with Hanson vodka, lychee and rosehip lemon from Folia Friday, Sept. 19, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Overall

As Charlie Palmer’s son, chef Reed Palmer has a lot to live up to. But he’s certainly putting his own spin on dishes that continue the legacy of bringing New American cuisine to the forefront, with an emphasis on honest ingredients, simple cooking techniques and local flair.

Folia Bar & Kitchen, 101 Dovetail Lane, Healdsburg, 707-723-2130, foliabarandkitchen.com. Dinner served from 5-9 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday. Lounge menu available from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.

Andys Beeline Rooftop is open from 4-11 p.m. daily by reservation at beelinerooftop.com.