Lang & Reed Excels at Napa’s ‘Other’ Cabernet

If you’ve ever wanted to pretend you live in one of those charming vintage homes in St. Helena, Lang & Reed Napa Valley is a great place to visit. (Kim Serveau)

Pop quiz: What’s the most expensive wine grape in Napa Valley by the ton?

Cabernet Sauvignon would be a good guess, but it would also be incorrect. The priciest grape is actually Cabernet Franc at more than $10,000 per ton, with Cabernet Sauvignon ranking second.

Once relegated to blending status, Cab Franc has seen a surge in popularity lately due to its bright acidity, earthy tones and red berry flavors.

Lang & Reed Napa Valley has been putting Cabernet Franc on a well-deserved pedestal since the ‘90s — long before the cool kids caught on.

The story

Kansas City native John Skupny first visited Napa Valley in the late ‘70s, on a wine-buying mission for a restaurant group. Quickly realizing that California was where he wanted to be, he moved to the Bay Area in 1980 to work in wine marketing.

Skupny made his first wine — an amateur effort he calls “dreadful” — the same year. He later made his way to St. Helena and spent the next decade working for Caymus Vineyards, Clos du Val and Niebaum-Coppola before teaming up with his wife Tracey in 1993 to create the prototype for Lang & Reed Napa Valley. They launched the winery, named for their two sons, a few years later.

John and Tracey Skupny of Lang & Reed with their son, Reed Skupny, daughter-in-law, Megan Skupny, and grandchildren Felton and and Hawk. (Kim Serveau)
John and Tracey Skupny of Lang & Reed with their son, Reed Skupny, daughter-in-law, Megan Skupny, and grandchildren Felton and and Hawk. (Kim Serveau)

Knowing they’d need to do something different to stand out among the region’s famous Cabernet Sauvignon producers, Skupny focused on Cabernet Franc and added another unsung hero, Chenin Blanc, to the lineup in 2013. The Skupnys opened their St. Helena tasting room in 2021.

The vibe

If you’ve ever wanted to pretend you live in one of those charming vintage homes in downtown St. Helena, the Lang & Reed Tasting Salon is a great place to do it.

Cozy up to Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc at Lang & Reed Napa Valley in downtown St. Helena. (Kim Serveau)
Cozy up to Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc at Lang & Reed Napa Valley in downtown St. Helena. (Kim Serveau)

Set just off the town’s main drag, Lang & Reed sits inside the historic Spring House. The home, built in 1902 by Swiss entrepreneur John Battista Salmina, now features multiple sipping spaces, from the charming front porch to the cozy living room to a boardroom lined with historic photos of Spring House and the surrounding neighborhood.

If you like the idea of booking two winery appointments in a single location, you’re in luck: Lang & Reed shares the space with The Debate, another boutique producer.

On the palate

When I wrote that Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc are the focus at Lang & Reed, what I meant was this: That’s all the winery makes — and I don’t mind. (OK, OK … If you absolutely must taste something else, you can also sample the Rockhound Pinot Noir, made by the Skupnys’ son Reed.)

The 2022 Napa Valley Chenin Blanc ($75) is a beautiful wine with vibrant color, a rich texture and delicious pear notes. The winery also offers a pretty 2023 Chenin from Mendocino County (the grape is increasingly scarce in Napa Valley, with less than 20 acres remaining), brimming with stone fruit flavors and lively acidity ($35).

John Skupny of Lang & Reed Napa Valley in St. Helena. (Kim Serveau)
John Skupny of Lang & Reed Napa Valley in St. Helena. (Kim Serveau)

The 2022 North Coast Cabernet Franc ($60) is structured and rich with dark cherry and berry flavors. For a real showstopper, try the 2019 Two-Fourteen Napa Valley Cabernet Franc ($90). Named for the clone from which it’s made, the wine is silky-smooth, combining savory notes with juicy raspberry fruit.

Tastings range from $75 for a flight of current releases with nibbles of dried fruits and nuts, to $175 for a pairing with Tsar Nicoulai caviar and potato chips.

Beyond the bottle

Goose & Gander is directly across the street from the Tasting Salon, so you can book a late afternoon wine tasting and then just pop over to the “neighbor’s” 1920 bungalow for an early dinner or a pre-dinner snack.

The restaurant’s pub-like atmosphere, adorned with plenty of dark wood and brick accents, is ideal for a chilly winter evening. A glass or two of Cab Franc sure would make a tasty match for G & G’s house burger (go ahead and add bone marrow, if that’s your thing) or a juicy steak.

Lang & Reed Napa Valley, 1244 Spring St., St. Helena. Tastings by appointment. langandreed.com

Tina Caputo is a wine, food, and travel writer whose work has appeared in numerous publications, including SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, HuffPost, and Sonoma magazine. Follow Tina on Twitter @winebroad, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.

The Hidden Town of Hopland Is Eager To Share Its Treasures With Visitors

Amy Knudsen, left, Kurt Hauser, right, with Ella Brait, Hannah Knudsen Robyn DeuPree (from left, clockwise), eat at Hopland’s Bluebird Cafe on Wednesday, June 21, 2017. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)

If roads and scenery have a way of evoking moods, then there’s definitely a barometric change in tone as you head north on Highway 101 beyond Healdsburg and Cloverdale. Winding curves grow sharper as surrounding hills run up to the edge of the road. Signs advertise fossils, crystals and unusual rocks. Not long after crossing into Mendocino County on a steel truss bridge over the Russian River, the road narrows to two lanes and you roll into Hopland — a town that treasures its past and is eager to share it with curious visitors.

The perfect example is the Thatcher Hotel. Almost foreboding in its charcoal and gray facade, the gorgeously renovated 1890s Victorian opens into a warm, spacious lobby framed by an original marble-topped bar pouring holiday drinks like pumpkin spice White Russians and pear bourbon old fashioneds. A Christmas tree towers over the stately library room (yes, Jack London’s “Call of the Wild” is on the shelf).

Behind the hotel, a popular train depot once flourished, where brakemen would make jokes about “hopping off in Hopland.” Named after the bitter flowers that flavor beer, Hopland once drew hundreds of seasonal workers for the annual hop harvest, later shipping its prized bounty to brewers around the world.

Thatcher Hotel in Hopland
Inside the Thatcher Hotel in Hopland. (Melissa Kaseman / Courtesy Thatcher Hotel)

Today, the hops are gone. But that hasn’t stopped Thatcher owner Gary Breen from buying the recipe to defunct Mendocino Brewing Company’s popular Red Tail Ale. Thanks to an onsite nano-brewery, Red Tail is still always on tap at the bar.

Grapes are thriving in the region these days. From giant Bonterra (formerly Fetzer) to smaller destinations like Campovida, Alta Orsa and Blue Quail, the name of the game is organic, regenerative farming. Family-owned tasting rooms embrace the season, with a gingerbread house contest at Graziano, McNab Ridge and Brutocao wineries. Located in a former high school, Brutocao is also a good setting for a bocce ball game, weather permitting.

A trip to The Golden Pig for dinner is a must. Owner Julie Golden runs the restaurant, which goes through four to six hogs and one steer a month, sourcing from local farms including her own 2,000-acre Heart Arrow Ranch. Golden also offers tastings of Coro, a prized local cooperative wine blend of Zinfandel and Mediterranean varietals, all sourced from Mendocino County.

Roasted chicken at the Golden Pig Restaurant in Hopland. Photo Credit: DG Creative
Roasted chicken at the Golden Pig Restaurant in Hopland. (Photo courtesy DG Creative)
Bluebird Cafe in Hopland
Inside Bluebird Cafe in Hopland. (John Beck / Sonoma Magazine)

A stone’s throw north, the Bluebird Cafe is a great place for breakfast or lunch. Say hi to the giant moose mounted on the back wall (“some people call him ‘Marty,’ some people call him ‘Bullwinkle,’” says server Sharon Kyriakos) before you dig into a Bluebird Benedict or a blueberry blintz.

And five miles east of town, the UC Hopland Research & Extension Center offers classes in farming and animal husbandry. If you’re lucky, you might see a few wobbly newborn lambs just getting their feet under them.

Early winter is a delightfully slow time of year in Hopland, but even in the summer this southern Mendocino hamlet never strives for the trendy hustle-and-bustle of wine destination towns to the south.

UC Hopland Research and Extension Center
The UC Hopland Research and Extension Center in Hopland is a 5,300-acre educational facility. It offers guided hikes as well as classes in farming and animal husbandry. (Brittany App / Courtesy UC Hopland Research & Extension Center)

“Hopland is still sort of that unknown place that you pass through,” says Thatcher Hotel general manager Amy Pardini. “You’re going 65 miles an hour on Highway 101, and you’re brought down to 35 miles an hour for a blip, and then you’re back to 65 miles an hour again. A lot of people don’t really even see us.”

But they should.

Where to visit

Thatcher Hotel

This copper-steepled Victorian boasts 18 updated modern rooms and a pool and spa. 13401 Highway 101, 707-723-0838, thatcherhotel.com

Inside the Thatcher Hotel in Hopland. (Melissa Kaseman / Courtesy Thatcher Hotel)
Inside the Thatcher Hotel in Hopland. (Melissa Kaseman / Courtesy Thatcher Hotel)
Drinks at The Golden Pig in Hopland. (Tanna Pascoe / Courtesy The Golden Pig)
Drinks at The Golden Pig in Hopland. (Tanna Pascoe / Courtesy The Golden Pig)
The Golden Pig

Holiday drinks at this “farm-driven” locally sourced restaurant include the Hopland Toddy with Stave Robber Ryed Bourbon, Rapscallion Spiced Apple liqueur, lemon juice and honey. 13380 S. Highway 101, 707670-6055, thegoldenpig.com

Campovida

Look for Italian varietals like Nero d’Avola, Nebbiolo and Negroamaro at this organically farmed vineyard and winery. 13601 Old River Road, 707-744-8797, campovida.com

Bluebird Cafe

This roadside diner is reminiscent of a Southern greasy spoon, but with a moose watching over everything. 13340 Highway 101, 707-744-1633

UC Hopland Research & Extension Center

This 5,300-acre educational facility offers guided hikes as well as classes like Sheep Shearing 101. 4070 University Road, 707-744-1424, hrec.ucanr.edu

Creative Family Transforms Healdsburg Home With Handcrafted Design

Inside Morgania Moore and Brook Bannister’s living room, filled with handcrafted pieces and foraged finds. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

Morgania Moore and her husband, Brook Bannister, both have deep family ties to the rural Alexander Valley outside Healdsburg. As a child, Moore spent many weeks visiting the home her grandmother built in the Soda Rock area near the Russian River. Bannister’s father had a place nearby, and Bannister grew up fishing and swimming in that same stretch of river, though the couple didn’t meet until they were in their 20s.

Now raising their 11-year-old son, Monroe, in the home that Moore inherited from her grandmother, the creative family is deeply connected to the land and to the handcrafted spaces they’ve brought to life together.

“This house, as the crow flies, is very close to the house my dad built in 1978,” says Bannister. “It was on the edge of these huge expanses of cattle range and maybe a few vineyards. There weren’t any other people around, and you could go out and walk forever and feel like you were out in nature. So this is really close to that; it has the same kind of feel.”

Alexander Valley craft home
Brook Bannister, a winemaker, musician and woodworker, built much of the home’s furniture, from tables and shelves to kitchen cabinets. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

The low-slung, stick-built 1970s cottage and adjacent shared studio unfold in a series of imaginative rooms that bear the mark of a family captivated by craft. Bannister, a winemaker, musician and woodworker, has built much of the home’s furniture, from tables and shelves to kitchen cabinets. Moore, whose creativity extends from lighting and floral design to jewelry and textiles, has filled the rooms with large-scale foraged finds from nature. And Monroe, who attends a nature school near Forestville, plays music with his dad and oversees a massive Lego operation.

There’s space enough for the family to be creative, each quietly absorbed in solitary pursuits in different parts of the home during the day. As the afternoon wanes in the early darkness of winter, they circle back to the kitchen to talk, read and make dinner together.

“We’re all so individually into whatever we’re into. So we try to give each other a lot of room and patience to work on projects,” says Bannister.

Alexander Valley craft home
Brook Bannister made the dining table in collaboration with his good friend Jake Hawkes, who lives nearby. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

“One of the things about having creative impulses is you dig the hole, and then you find your way out,” he says. “That’s how interesting things get made — but it’s also a more difficult process at times.”

Moore and Bannister wander into art projects the way others might pick up a book, following ideas as they come. They’re drawn to the possibility in the curve of a piece of bone, the palette of river stones, the shape of a piece of recycled metal. Bannister translates these inspirations into furniture or music, while Moore sculpts overscale pendant lights in papier-mâché, braids fabric into textured cushions and twists reclaimed fireplace screens into large-scale installations. Entire tree limbs brought inside arch over seating areas, and finds from Moore’s years spent on film sets populate the scene. It’s not just a cabinet of wonders, but an entire home of artistic imagination and creativity.

They both want to honor the house’s humble, artsy history and stay true to its bohemian, 1970s roots. “I had a couple friends who were interior designer people come through, and they were like, ‘Paint the ceiling in here, and brighten it up,’ and do all this stuff. And I just can’t do it,” laughs Moore. “There’s something about it. The old is still here, and I’m trying to bring in some new. But there are stains and marks everywhere that represent years and years of life in this house.”

Alexander Valley craft home
Artists Brook Bannister and Morgania Moore see their home as a canvas that evolves over time. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

There are years of life and history in the surrounding hills as well. Winter rains uncover clay and pebbles that Moore collects and brings back to her studio to wire into jewelry. The rains also rejuvenate the river flows and give a flush of green and gold to the landscape. “There are materials all around us…That’s country life, you know?” says Moore.

The crispness of early winter in the Alexander Valley means vineyards turning colors and native plants starting to grow back. “Winter isn’t empty; it’s really beautiful. More sculptural for sure, because the leaves are off the oaks, and the grasses are laid down,” says Bannister. “You can see the shapes of the branches and how they’re framed, and you can really see a large swath of the valley from the house.”

A few years back, a winter storm washed up the waterlogged trunk of a huge black walnut tree onto a nearby sandbar of the Russian River. Where someone else might see a tangle to clear away, Bannister saw a once-in-a-lifetime project. He and a friend cut the walnut into logs and hauled them out of the river to mill into slabs, which took a couple of years to cure. Stained and shaped into live-edge cabinet fronts, that walnut is now the hallmark of the family’s character-filled kitchen.

Alexander Valley craft home
In the kitchen, Brook Bannister installs new, live-edge walnut cabinet fronts. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

“To start with something as crazy as a giant tree lying on the bank… it’s kind of a long, interesting process where you have to be patient and have some faith,” says Bannister. “Only later on do you find out what you’ve got.”

This sustainable, local approach to craft is deeply resonant for Bannister and Moore, who are motivated by a desire to conserve the land for the future and their young son.

“We have cut down millions of trees that ended up just being wasted. I’ve always just hated that, how little value is placed on keeping old-growth trees in the forest and not cutting them down,” says Bannister. “So when I got interested in making furniture, I was inevitably pushed towards salvaged and reclaimed stuff. It’s just more beautiful than anything you can buy from a supplier. I’m not interested in making stuff out of trees that came out of rainforests.”

Some of Morgania Moore’s designs, in ceramic, stone and marble-dyed leather. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)
Some of Morgania Moore’s designs, in ceramic, stone and marble-dyed leather. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

Monroe explored carving spoons from the same walnut that Bannister used for the kitchen cabinets. In fact, the couple often find themselves drawn to the same stones, clay and other natural materials. “That’s the cool thing,” explains Moore. “Artistically, we don’t always go together, but eventually Brook and I end up at the same spot.”

And as the family wanders through the chapters of their creative life, the spaces of their home continue to evolve. “You use a room one way for a while, and then you want to do something different with it,” says Bannister. “You look at it as a template.”

“The house is like a canvas that receives your creativity as it comes. It’s seeing what happens over time.”

Mid-Century Modern Santa Rosa Home Featured in The New York Times

Living room. (Courtesy of Tim Rangel)
Living room. (Courtesy of Tim Rangel)

The New York Times recently featured a Santa Rosa property in a spotlight of $1.1 million homes in California. Perched in the hills of Montecito Heights, the four-bedroom, two-bathroom home is on the market for $1,098,000.

Built in 1972, the 2,124-square-foot home has been renovated in a mid-century modern style. An open layout, vaulted ceilings, and some whited-out wood paneling and stone cladding give the home an airiness. 

A series of windows and the balcony along the front of the home offer views of oak trees and mountains. In the back, a porch runs the length of the home and has built-in benches for sitting. 

Patio. (Tim Rangel)
Patio. (Courtesy of Tim Rangel)
Kitchen in Santa Rosa home
Kitchen. (Courtesy Tim Rangel)

Italian marble countertops, stainless steel appliances and cabinets refinished in a robin’s-egg blue give the kitchen sparkle. The bathrooms are refreshed by refinished cabinets and vertical tile work in hues borrowed from the natural setting.

Along with the Santa Rosa property, The New York Times article featured two other Northern California homes, in Oakland and Stockton.

For more information on this property at 3935 Alta Vista Ave., contact listing agents Tim Rangel, 707-280-1700, or Claud Bates, 707-365-6830; Sotheby’s International Realty – Wine Country – Sonoma Brokerage, 793 Broadway, Sonoma, sothebysrealty.com

Cheery Home on Whimsical, Art-Filled Block In Sebastopol Listed for $755,000

This two-bedroom, one-bathroom home on Sebastopol's Florence Avenue—know for its row of junk art sculptures—is currently listed for $755,000. (Jesse West / Aerial Photography)
This two-bedroom, one-bathroom home on Sebastopol’s Florence Avenue — known for its row of junk art sculptures — is currently listed for $755,000. (Jesse West / Aerial Photography)

A historic home with proximity to Sebastopol’s artistic, bohemian scene is currently up for sale. Built in 1905, the two-bedroom, one-bathroom home’s asking price is $755,000.

Located on Florence Avenue, the dwelling is immersed in a piece of the town’s art scene. The notable street is lined with the playful and expressive junk art sculptures by artist and Florence Avenue resident Patrick Amiot, whose distinct works are scattered throughout town.

The home’s cherished vintage details include a covered front porch, a decorative gable, clapboard siding and a checkerboard floor. 

In the 1,000-square-foot layout are a separate living room and dining room, both with hardwood floors. An auxiliary space can function as an office and laundry room.

Office space in Sebastopol home
Office in Florence Avenue home in Sebastopol. (Jesse West / Aerial Photography)
Backyard. (Jesse West / Aerial Photography)
Backyard garden at Florence Avenue home in Sebastopol. (Jesse West / Aerial Photography)

The garden features a covered dining area and mature plantings, including 17 heirloom roses that color the area in spring.

An Amiot sculpture stands in the front yard. The homeowner chose a small angel, which she dubbed “Clarence the Garden Angel,” named after the guardian angel Clarence Odbody from the classic film, “It’s A Wonderful Life.”

The residence is a walkable distance to downtown Sebastopol, with artisan shops, acclaimed restaurants and tasting rooms. Recently, the Gravenstein capital was named one the “most zen” cities in America.

For more information on 470 Florence Ave. in Sebastopol, contact listing agent Lori Johnson-Burmeyer, 707-529-2624, 707-527-8567; Coldwell Banker Realty, 600 Bicentennial Way, Suite 100, Santa Rosa, coldwellbanker.com

Glen Ellen Has Everything To Make You Feel Glad To Be Alive

The Saloon at The Jack London Lodge in Glen Ellen. (Kim Carroll)

On one hand, Glen Ellen is the town that Jack built. Nearly every sign references freewheeling roustabout author Jack London, from the burger on the menu at the local watering hole to the lively miniature boat races on Sonoma Creek each spring.

But on the other hand, even if the “Valley of the Moon” author had never set foot in this charming village, it would still lure countless visitors looking to get away and feast on everything that ripens around this enclave at the base of Sonoma Mountain.

“It’s the kind of place where everybody knows everybody, but we love sharing it with newcomers,” says Kim O’Donnell, event manager of the saloon and adjacent Jack London Lodge. “Tourists come into the saloon and hang out with the locals, and hours later they leave as friends.”

Jack London Lodge, Restaurant and Saloon in Glen Ellen.
The Saloon at The Jack London Lodge in Glen Ellen. (Kim Carroll/Sonoma Magazine)

A Dickensian scene unfolds each year in front of the saloon in early December when a vintage carriage pulled by majestic Percheron draft horses picks up visitors for sing-along carols.

As in any French country village, a boulangerie is at the heart of daily life here. The rustic Les Pascals, run by husband-and-wife team Pascal and Pascale Merle, originally from Lyon, France, and their son Enzo, always makes extra bûches de Noel and peppermint mochas for the holidays. The copper rail that runs along the back wall of the cafe was rescued from a 1960s biker bar once located in the 1906 building next door.

The most coveted table in town is at Glen Ellen Star, where chef Ari Weiswasser finds art in seasonal menus that spotlight wood-fired vegetables, whole-roasted fish and wagyu steak. Wineries and tasting rooms abound, from Benziger to Arrowood to sixth-generation family vintner Katie Bundschu’s Abbot’s Passage. But by far the most unique experience is at Dane Cellars, where the tasting room is housed inside an enormous, hundred-plus-year-old redwood wine tank.

A dish at Glen Ellen Star in Glen Ellen. (Courtesy Sonoma County Tourism)
A dish at Glen Ellen Star in Glen Ellen. (Courtesy Sonoma County Tourism)
Bart Hansen, winemaker/owner of Dane Cellars, has opened his tasting room in a over 100 year old, 14,000 gallon redwood wine tank in the Jack London Village Wednesday, April 10, 2024 in Glen Ellen. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Bart Hansen, winemaker/owner of Dane Cellars, opened his tasting room in an over 100-year-old, 14,000 gallon redwood wine tank in the Jack London Village, Wednesday, April 10, 2024, in Glen Ellen. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

For a breathtaking, seasonal hiking experience, meander through the Sonoma Botanical Garden, a carefully curated Asian woodland that comes to life every fall with Amur maple leaves turning garnet beside golden chestnut trees in November, followed by the crimson leaves of five-lobed maple and beautyberry trees in December.

Of course the main attraction has always been Jack London State Park, as locals like Wine Country Trekking owner Greg Guerrazzi freely admit. “He’s still our claim to fame.”

Wander through the “The House of Happy Walls” museum, see the cottage where London wrote novels and short stories, and hike to his grave and his dream house, “The Wolf House,” which tragically burned down in 1913.

Memorialized in a painting at the saloon, London once described a late afternoon horse ride this time of year, as “the grapes on a score of rolling hills are red with autumn flame” and “wisps of sea fog” settled across Sonoma Mountain. “I have everything to make me glad I am alive,” he wrote.

More than a century later, Glen Ellen still evokes that feeling.

Where to visit

Jack London Lodge, Restaurant and Saloon in Glen Ellen.
Jack London Lodge, Restaurant and Saloon in Glen Ellen. (Robbi Pengelly/Index-Tribune)
Jack London Saloon

This locals’ favorite watering hole, once known as “the Benzigers’ lower office,” according to the manager, may as well be a museum with all the Jack London memorabilia on the walls. 13740 Arnold Drive, 707-9963100, jacklondonlodge.com

Les Pascals

Quick with a flaky croissant or a fresh baguette, the French owners say Glen Ellen reminds them of old Lyon, the city where they started making Buche de Noel as teenagers. 13758 Arnold Drive, 707-934-8378, lespascalspatisserie.com

Glen Ellen Star

This cozy Michelin-recognized restaurant revolves around the wood oven, from the rustic pizzas to the whole branzino. Look for festive holiday lights on late sculptor Chuck Gillet’s funky water tower across the street. 13648 Arnold Drive, 707-343-1384, glenellenstar.com

Dane Cellars

Tastings inside a historic redwood wine tank, by appointment. 14300 Arnold Drive, 707-529-5856, danecellars.com

Best Sonoma wineries Abbot's Passage
Abbot’s Passage Winery & Mercantile, an experiential winery located on a historic property in Glen Ellen. (Courtesy of Abbot’s Passage)
The pool at the Olea Hotel in Glen Ellen. (Sonoma County Tourism)
The pool at the Olea Hotel in Glen Ellen. (Courtesy of Sonoma County Tourism)
Abbot’s Passage

Look for a holiday photo booth, face painting, and custom clothing and home goods at the annual Winter Market on Dec. 8, plus wines and home goods any time of year. 777 Madrone Road, 707-939-3017, abbotspassage.com

Olea Hotel

This idyllic boutique hotel, nicely remodeled after the 2017 fires, is clustered around a heated pool with views that overlook the valley. 5131 Warm Springs Road, 707-996-5131, oleahotel.com

Sonoma Botanical Garden

Walk among gorgeous plants like Japanese barberry and harlequin glorybower at this Asian woodland park. The nonprofit garden hosts holiday table centerpiece classes featuring berries, pinecones and fresh greens. 12841 Hwy. 12, 707-996-3166, sonomabg.org

Jack London State Park

Bring good walking shoes because there’s plenty to explore, from the ruins of the Wolf House to the House of Happy Walls museum built by the acclaimed author’s wife, Charmian, after he died in 1916. 2400 London Ranch Road, 707-938-5216, jacklondonpark.com

Meet the Women Behind Some of Sonoma and Napa’s Best Wines

Founded by John Pedroncelli, Sr. in 1927, the Geyserville property is now run as a fourth-generation business by president Julie Pedroncelli St. John, with Montse Reece as winemaker. (Pedroncelly Winery)

If there has long been a history of glass ceilings for women in the workplace (I’m looking at you, “Mad Men”), female winemakers and winery owners have nevertheless been shattering glass bottles for decades.

Consider Winemaker Emeritus Geneviève Janssens, famous for her stellar Bordeaux-style wines for Napa’s Robert Mondavi Winery, and her reverence for the globally celebrated To Kalon vineyard on the western Oakville bench.

The French artist joined Mondavi in 1978. She was hired by another icon, the now-retired Zelma Long, who was California’s second woman ever in enology (Mary Ann Graf was the first). Sip any of Janssens’ wines, and you’ll be delighted.

Genèvieve Janssens Robert Mondavi Winery
Genèvieve Janssens, Director of Winemaking at Robert Mondavi Winery in Napa. Janssens joined the winery in 1978. (Chris Leschinsky/Robert Mondavi Winery)
Carol Shelton wines
Carol Shelton tries samples of the 2014 Wild Thing Chardonnay, right, and the 2014 Wild Thing Dry Rose of Carignane at her Santa Rosa winery. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

And I have to salute Carol Shelton, as well, winemaker and co-owner of Carol Shelton Wines in Santa Rosa. Playfully called “The Queen Of Zinfandel” among industry friends, she has celebrated her favorite varietal since 1978, alongside smatterings of equally notable white and red blends. With her cozy-casual tasting room in an unlikely industrial area, you might never guess how elegant her wines are.

I could go on and on about more powerhouse women in wine, and for later columns, I certainly will. For notable wines boasting female flair, though, start by giving these other two standouts a try, too.

Pedroncelli Winery

Founded by John Pedroncelli Sr. in 1927, the Geyserville property is now run as a fourth-generation business by president Julie Pedroncelli St. John, with Montse Reece as winemaker.

The two women work closely together on the primarily Dry Creek Valley bottlings spanning Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Chardonnay and accents of unusual wines like a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer and Chardonnay; a Sangiovese, an inaugural Blanc de Blancs and a Dry Creek Valley Port blend of Tinta Madeira, Tinta Cao, Souzao and Touriga Nacional (this is the final vintage, with just a few bottles remaining).

Pedroncelli Winery
Pedroncelli Winery president Julie Pedroncelli St. John, left, works closely with winemaker Montse Reece, right, to craft the Geyserville winery’s bottlings. (Courtesy Pedroncelli Winery)

Pedroncelli St. John has been in the family business for 39 years, since 1985. She first worked in the tasting room and then, in 1988, started to travel on behalf of the winery.

“There were women on the supplier side of wineries working the market alongside me, as well as a few women in managerial roles at distributors,” she said of the 1980s wine industry. “It had a feeling of a men’s club at times — mostly since I was so new to the business. And, of course, I was not always recognized as a family member … when I was, it was assumed I was the owner’s wife.”

Since she took over in 2022, Pedroncelli St. John has updated the winery’s hospitality center, dialed in the portfolio to focus on estate vineyards and smaller batch wines, and implemented a replant plan for the Home Ranch Vineyard, the original land purchase by her grandparents.

Wilson Artisan Wines

Diane Wilson at Wilson Artisan Wines
Diane Wilson is the co-owner and winemaker at Wilson Artisan Wines, overseeing 11 wineries across Sonoma and Mendocino counties. (Courtesy Wilson Artisan Wines)

With 11 wineries across Sonoma and Mendocino counties, co-owner and winemaker Diane Wilson has a lot to keep track of. Add to that numerous bottlings ranging from Cabernet Sauvignon to Sauvignon Blanc to a Kenneth Carl Brut sparkling of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and a splash of Pinot Meunier. Red wines are her particular favorite.

“I try to make wines that are fruit forward, full bodied, and approachable reasonably soon,” she said. “I don’t think customers should have to wait 10 years to open a bottle.”

Together with her husband, Ken Wilson, she started buying land in western Dry Creek Valley in the early 1980s, planting their first vines in 1988. She soon took over as winemaker, working out of an old tin barn at the historic Fredson Winery (what is now Wilson Winery) in Healdsburg.

A Santa Rosa Herbalist Blends Teas That Honor Her Nigerian American Roots

Jennifer Ilonzeh, owner of Santa Rosa-based Plant Magic by Ndidi. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)

As a child growing up in Texas, Jennifer Ilonzeh had an unusual hobby. She and her sisters liked to visit self-serve soda fountains and compete to see who could blend different flavors to create the most delicious drink.

“Luckily, I’m really good, and I always won,” laughs Ilonzeh.

Now, a couple of decades later, Ilonzeh has upped her game as the owner of Santa Rosa-based Plant Magic by Ndidi, a line of hand-blended, small batch organic teas and other wellness elixirs. The title of the business is taken from Ilonzeh’s middle name, which means patience in Nigerian.

Jennifer Ilonzeh, owner of Santa Rosa-based Plant Magic by Ndidi. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
Jennifer Ilonzeh, owner of Santa Rosa-based Plant Magic by Ndidi. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)

Ilonzeh’s winter immunity tea combines organic rooibos, linden, elderberries, elderflowers, dried ginger, lemon balm and echinacea root for a warming dose of antioxidants and vitamin C on a chilly winter day.

“It helps if you feel a flu approaching or have been exposed to someone sick,” Ilonzeh says. “Plus, it’s really delicious.” In winter, she likes to make hot toddies using her own immunity tea blend as a base, adding brandy, honey and a squeeze of lemon.

Plant Magic by Ndidi also includes a blend of tea that supports healthy rest, made with California poppy and chamomile, and an “uplifting” tea that includes hawthorn, linden, lemon balm, holy basil and rose petals. Ilonzeh has broadened her line to include apothecary products like oils and body butters, plus a tincture of herbs taken by the dropperful to unwind before sleep.

A tea blend from Plant Magic by Ndidi, a Santa Rosa-based line of hand-blended, small batch organic teas and other wellness elixirs from Jennifer Ilonzeh. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
A tea blend from Plant Magic by Ndidi, a line of organic teas and other wellness elixirs from Jennifer Ilonzeh. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)

The young entrepreneur has traveled a long road to Sonoma County, a place she was drawn to for its deep agricultural traditions as well as its well-established school of herbal medicine, the California School of Herbal Studies in Forestville. Many types of herbs thrive in the climate of Sonoma County, she notes.

Ilonzeh gathers some herbs for her organic teas at Bramble Tail Homestead, the medicinal plant gardens at Green Valley Farm + Mill outside Sebastopol. She also grows some of her own and forages on friends’ properties. She’s been known to pocket handfuls of star jasmine she comes across while out on walks and has even traveled to the High Sierra to harvest arnica at the source.

Santa Rosa herbalist Jennifer Ilonzeh forages for herbs for her wellness teas
Jennifer Ilonzeh forages for herbs for her wellness teas at local farms and in the gardens of her friends. She has even traveled to the Sierra to gather ingredients. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)

Ilonzeh grew up in a large immigrant family, the second oldest of five daughters. Her father, who loves plants and gardening, came to the U.S. from Nigeria for college in Virginia.

“He had seen the university pamphlet, but the photos were taken in the summer, and he didn’t speak much English to ask questions,” recalls Ilonzeh. “When winter hit, he’d never seen snow before, and he didn’t even own a jacket.”

He met Ilonzeh’s mother, who has family roots in Great Britain and Poland, in Virginia, and the couple later moved to Texas, where there was a large Nigerian expat community.

The warmer Texas climate allowed Ilonzeh’s father to begin gardening again. He planted vegetables and flowers with seeds he’d brought from Nigeria, allowing friends in their Nigerian American community access to ingredients they couldn’t find in local markets, like peppers and greens. Ilonzeh spent many hours in the kitchen on Sundays with her mother as she prepped meals for the family of seven.

Santa Rosa herbalist Jennifer Ilonzeh forages for herbs for her wellness teas
Jennifer Ilonzeh forages for herbs for her wellness teas at local farms and in the gardens of her friends. She has even traveled to the Sierra to gather ingredients. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)

In her 20s, Ilonzeh moved to Maui, where she was captivated by the island’s remarkable flora. “The beauty and aromas of the flowers were something I could never imagine,” she says.

She bought a manual to identify the native plants and hiked everywhere, along the way learning to name-drop Latin plant names and becoming an expert at making flower potions for friends. After time in New York and southern California, she arrived in Sonoma with her partner, who was so supportive of her path that he created a spreadsheet of all the places on the West Coast with top holistic schools to help them choose where to settle.

In the couple’s Santa Rosa kitchen, she concocts teas and tisanes with ingredients that change with the season, driven by Sonoma’s natural abundance and a strong local community of fellow plant lovers. “There’s always someone growing something and has extra they’re happy to share,” she says.

Jennifer Ilonzeh's hot toddy immunity tea
A warming winter hot toddy made with Jennifer Ilonzeh’s own immunity tea, plus honey and a squeeze of lemon. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)

In summer, recipes might include dried hibiscus and locally grown lavender, while in winter, she spikes dishes with plenty of ginger, cayenne, thyme, oregano and other strong flavors. At the holidays, she salutes the season with homemade cordials to give to friends, working with ingredients like elderberries, rosemary and kola nuts in a base of alcohol.

As she develops her recipes, Ilonzeh finds meaning in talking with clients and friends to figure out their needs.

“Who am I blending it for? There’s always something that people need, whether it’s sleep concerns or digestion issues or nervous system support. I can just sit and listen and assess how they look or how they’re moving their body. And then we can figure it out together.”

Jennifer Ilonzeh’s line of teas and herbal products, Plant Magic by Ndidi, is available through her website, at Made Local Marketplace in Santa Rosa, and at the store at Green Valley Farm + Mill in Sebastopol. plantmagicbyndidi.com

Jennifer Ilonzeh's Fire Cider tea
Jennifer Ilonzeh’s Fire Cider, a warming tonic to ward off colds. The recipe is highly adaptable to different types of citrus, peppers and herbs. (Courtesy Jennifer Ilonzeh)

Fire Cider

Ilonzeh sips an ounce of this tonic daily to ward off colds. She notes the recipe is highly adaptable to different types of citrus, peppers and herbs. A good amount of honey is a must. Ilonzeh uses honey from her herbal school classmate, Candice Koseba of Sonoma County Bee Company.

• 1 orange, roughly chopped

• 2 lemons, roughly chopped

• 1 small (1-inch) piece horseradish, grated

• 1 onion, roughly chopped

• 6 garlic cloves, whole

• 2 serrano chiles, sliced into rounds (seeds optional)

• 1 medium (3-inch) piece fresh ginger, grated

• 1 handful fresh rosemary (about 1/2 cup)

• 1 handful fresh thyme (about 1/2 cup)

• 1 handful dried elderberries (about 1/2 cup)

• 1 handful fresh rose hips, or fresh or dried hibiscus, chopped (about 1/2 cup)

• Raw apple cider vinegar

• Raw honey to taste (about 1/4 cup)

Combine all ingredients except vinegar and honey in a half-gallon canning jar. Pour in enough apple cider vinegar to fill the jar to within a half-inch of the top. Insert a small square of parchment paper between the jar and the metal lid so the lid doesn’t react with the ingredients, and gently tighten the lid.

Place in a dark, cool spot for four to six weeks, gently shaking once a week. When the mixture smells rich and pungent, strain out the contents and discard. Warm the honey in a water bath for a few minutes until it is thin and stirs easily. Add the warmed honey to the mixture to taste, and stir to combine. Fire cider will keep, refrigerated, for up to three months.

Sonoma County’s Best New Restaurants of 2024

Toothpick Beef dusted with peanuts and intense aromatics served as a finger food or over rice from Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini, Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Each year, there are a handful of local restaurant openings worth celebrating. It’s not one specific thing that catches my attention. Instead, it’s a little bit of everything — decor, the general vibe, the staff, the story of how the restaurateur got to this point, and most importantly, the food. If one thing is off, everything is off.

This year, I’m incredibly excited about my top two openings, Bazaar Sonoma and A & M BBQ, because they embody everything that’s right with Sonoma County’s restaurant scene. Both are minority-owned, have compelling backstories and noteworthy cuisine, but what keeps them top of mind is the kind of hospitality and passion for the craft that feels so rare.

All of this year’s Best Openings are impressive, and I’m grateful for the addition of these terrific new Sonoma County restaurants.

Best opening of 2024: Bazaar Sonoma (BaSo), Forestville
Best restaurant opening of 2024: Bazaar Sonoma (BaSo), Forestville
Black Cod with soy sauce, ginger, greens and a hot infused oil table pour from Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini Oct. 17, 2024 in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Sonoma County restaurateurs usually don’t have the luxury of taking risks — the rent is too high, diners are often fickle and the cost of doing business can’t support menus that aren’t crowd-pleasers. And even then, nothing is guaranteed.

Bazaar Sonoma’s Sean Quan and Jenny Phan are breaking that mold, creating striking Szechuan-inspired, homey and approachable dishes.

Quan, a former SingleThread cook and fine dining alum, has centered BaSo around family. His dishes are inspired by his Chinese-American upbringing and the family meals he created for his restaurant coworkers before each shift. You’ll also see plenty of nods to the pop-up dinners the couple hosted over the last three years, ranging from spicy fried chicken to home-style Chinese cuisine.

At Bazaar Sonoma, dishes like toothpick beef, featuring small toothpick-skewered bites of beef encrusted with cumin, fennel, sesame seeds, dried Chinese chiles and roasted brown sugar, are sweet and spicy with a kapow on the tongue.

Toothpick Beef dusted with peanuts and intense aromatics served as a finger food or over rice from Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini, Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Toothpick Beef dusted with peanuts and intense aromatics served as a finger food or over rice from Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini Oct. 17, 2024 in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Zhong Dumplings with BaSo homemade chili crisp and sweet pork dumplings from Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini, Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Zhong Dumplings with BaSo homemade chili crisp and sweet pork dumplings from Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini Oct. 17, 2024 in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Homey mapo tofu, wonton noodle soup and hot and sour fried potatoes invite you to sit down, grab some smoked plum tea and enjoy the moment.

Handmade zhong dumplings, however, are my favorite dish. They’re served with a gravy-like sauce made with three kinds of soy sauce, brown sugar, garlic, a collection of Chinese spices (Quan calls the mix his “mystery spice”) and Bazaar Sonoma’s chili crunch. Poured over the soft, slippery dumplings, it is an intoxicatingly sweet, spicy, savory mess that surprises you with every bite.

Sometimes, taking a big risk is the right thing to do, and BaSo gets my vote for its unapologetic, sometimes perfectly imperfect but always lovingly made dishes.

A note: the restaurant is small with limited staff, and dishes tend to run out, especially the dumplings. Go with a sense of adventure and patience, if there’s a line.

6566 Front St., Forestville, 707-614-8056, bazaar-sonoma.com

Runner-up: A & M BBQ Café
Best Restaurant Runner-up: A&M Barbecue
Texas Toast, cornbread muffins, pork ribs, links, brisket and tri-tip, bbq chicken, baked beans, coleslaw and collard greens at A&M BBQ in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

There’s a good reason you’ll often find a line out the door of Kris Austin and Marvin McKinzy’s Southern barbecue restaurant — because it’s that good, and they frequently run out of their perfectly smoked brisket, tri-tip and pork ribs.

Both pitmasters in their own right, Austin (of Austin’s BBQ) and McKinzy (of Marvin’s BBQ) joined forces to create A & M this spring (which is not named for the Texas university but for their first initials). But you’d be forgiven for the mistake because their wood-smoked barbecued meats are Lone Star-inspired, with a seasoned dry rub instead of slathered with sauce.

With so little good barbecue in these parts, A & M has become a much-needed destination for ‘que lovers.

495 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-799-2892, instagram.com/ambbqllc

Brigitte Bistro restaurant
French onion soup at Brigitte Bistro in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Currywurst at Tisza Bistro's Beer Garden in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
Currywurst at Tisza Bistro’s Beer Garden in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
Brigitte Bistro

Chef/owner Nick Ronan serves the kind of food he loves best: hearty bistro-style dishes like beef bourguignon and duck confit, along with tableside beef tartare and the requisite steak frites. But instead of pandering to us, he brings the flavors of his French homeland directly to the table. Ronan’s motto, “Love. Food. Wine. Passion. Life. People” comes through in his “maman”-style cuisine. 841 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma, 707-981-8381, brigittebistropetaluma.com

Tisza Bistro

After closing their Windsor restaurant in 2020, owners Krisztian Karkus and Alena Rebik took their schnitzel show to weekly farmers markets and pop-ups to keep their fans happy. The couple spent two years remodeling the old Singletree Café in Healdsburg, creating a permanent home (and outdoor beer garden) to showcase hard-to-find Bavarian dishes, including chicken Cordon Bleu, duck leg confit, Wiener schnitzel, or hunter’s schnitzel, made with wild mushroom sauce. Don’t miss the strudel, spaetzle and wonderfully messy currywurst. 165 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-291-5193, tiszabistro.com

Acorn Cafe

Healdsburg is known for many things, but breakfast isn’t one of them. Despite a wealth of fine dining options for lunch and dinner, there are precious few spots to tuck into a hearty pancake breakfast, eggs Benedict or morning mimosa. Acorn Café is staking a syrup-soaked claim on that void with its over-the-top takes on breakfast, brunch and lunch. The lineup includes tiramisu French toast, a brown butter hollandaise Benedict and quite possibly the world’s most-inspired fried chicken sandwich.

The former Oakville Grocery has been reborn as a joyful, light-filled downtown gathering spot decorated in sun-kissed oranges and blues with modern wood accents. There’s plentiful seating inside, and a built-in fireplace warms the patio. Chef/owner Beryl Adler is a longtime fine-dining chef who worked in far-off locales like Bali, Australia and the Caribbean but saw an opening for a sit-down café in Healdsburg dedicated to morning and early afternoon eats. Mission accomplished. 124 Matheson St., Healdsburg, acornhealdsburg.com

Healdsburg shakshuka with poached eggs, tomato shakshuka, eggplant, pistachio & green olive tapenade, fresh herbs and Goguette sourdough with a Big Sur juice from the Acorn Cafe Thursday, October 3, 2024 in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Healdsburg shakshuka with poached eggs, tomato shakshuka, eggplant, pistachio & green Olive tapenade, fresh herbs and Goguette sourdough with a Big Sur juice from the Acorn Cafe, Thursday, Oct. 3, 2024 in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Cosmic Nachos at The Wild Poppy Cafe bar along the Bodega Highway west of Sebastopol on Friday, May 3, 2024. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Cosmic Nachos at The Wild Poppy Cafe bar along the Bodega Highway west of Sebastopol on Friday, May 3, 2024. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Wild Poppy

The journey to Wild Poppy is a trek, which has always been a blessing and a curse for this west county location. Located well west of Sebastopol, you won’t stumble upon it unless you’re headed to or from the coast. But it’s well worth the detour, like Wild Flour Bakery in Freestone, Altamont General Store in Occidental, Estero Café or Rocker Oysterfeller’s in Valley Ford.

Wild Poppy opened in late April with chef Martin Maigaard, formerly of the Gypsy Cafe (now closed), helming the kitchen with plenty of family on hand to help. On sunny days, the rambling outdoor patio of this quirky Sebastopol hideaway is a magical place, full of nooks, crannies and secret spaces to explore. There are plenty of vegan and vegetarian options, including my favorite Cosmic Queso, with freshly made corn chips, creamy cashew queso dip, a swirl of pepita chimichurri and a side of slaw. 9890 Bodega Highway, Sebastopol, 707-503-6332, thewildpoppycafe.com

Rocker Oysterfeller’s at Lucas Wharf

The owners of the longtime Valley Ford roadhouse and Southern cooking destination Rocker Oysterfeller’s reopened the former Lucas Wharf restaurant as a second seafood-focused location in mid-August. Locally sourced seafood, rock star chef Jamilah Nixon (of Jam’s Joy Bungalow) and a full bar have made the restaurant a new destination dining spot for visitors and locals seeking the kind of experience coastal restaurants often promise but rarely deliver.

Classic wharf-side dining includes butterball potato and Manilla clam chowder, Crab Louis salad, pan-roasted local fish of the day, and the Captain’s Platter with a ridiculous amount of saltine-fried shrimp, beer-battered rock cod, salt and pepper calamari, a Dungeness crab cake and Kennebec fries served with tartar, rémoulade and cocktail sauce for your dipping pleasure. Full bar and great views for the win. 595 Highway 1, Bodega Bay, 707-772-5670, rockeroysterfellers.com

Also worth noting

Songbird Parlour restaurant
Head-on prawn, Oak Hill nardello chile, coconut curry from Songbird Parlour Thursday, November 21, 2024 in Glen Ellen. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Songbird Parlour

This cozy Victorian-style lounge/restaurant opened in mid-November and has barely had a chance to settle in, but my first visit was auspicious. Owner and caterer Lauren Kershner has used the space for private events and pop-ups for several years but expanded its offerings to a five-day-a-week restaurant at the Jack London Village in Glen Ellen. The 42-seat restaurant has a soaring ceiling and open kitchen where executive chef Eric Moulton creates a seasonal, hyperlocal menu using ingredients from nearby farms. I loved the head-on prawns with coconut curry and fried farm potatoes with leeks. 14301 Arnold Drive, Suite 3, Glen Ellen, 707-343-1308, songbirdparlour.com

Sarmentine in Petaluma

If there was a doorbuster opening in 2024, it was this much-anticipated outpost of the Santa Rosa French patisserie. Lines snaked around the bakery in anticipation on its first day in late July. Though it’s first and foremost a bakery, the expanded offerings include brunch and some yet-to-be-announced additions to the menu. A drool-worthy collection of bakery cases populates the spacious new location, piled with cream-filled desserts like Paris Brest (pate a choux filled with praline cream) and Mille-Feuille, chocolate croissants, brioche buns, fruit tarts (the passion fruit is a favorite) and Madeleines. Tiny caneles have a sticky, crunchy crust and custardy center that buckle my knees with happiness. This is the third location for the bakery. 840 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma, 707-623-9595, sarmentine.com

Sarmentine Bakery
Paris Brest and a creamy canele at Sarmentine Bakery in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Smoked oat flour tart with venison and tree lichen at Enclos restaurant in Sonoma. (Adahlia Cole / Courtesy Enclos)
Smoked oat flour tart with venison and tree lichen at Enclos restaurant in Sonoma. (Enclos)
Enclos

Though it technically opened in mid-December, this ambitious Sonoma restaurant is just too new to officially include on this year’s list — notably since I haven’t had the chance to dine there yet, but it’s noteworthy enough to deserve a mention. Chef Brian Limoges has created a multicourse, terroir-driven menu for the 12-table restaurant, which is housed in a renovated 1880s Victorian home in downtown Sonoma.

Showstopping dishes like “Antlers” (smoked oat flour tarts filled with venison and topped with fried lichen served on a deer antler) and “Honeycomb” (tiny ice cream sandwiches made by pastry chef Sophie Hau, perched atop a honeycomb frame) are already making waves with their over-the-top presentation. There’s now talk of Michelin ambitions for the sleepy town of Sonoma, which currently has no stars, unlike tonier Healdsburg or nearby Napa Valley. Limoges acknowledges his aspirations — he’s helmed several starred restaurants — but wants the driving force to be people rather than prizes. The 11-course meal is $225 per person, and reservations are being accepted for February. 139 East Napa St., Sonoma, enclos-sonoma.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

These Sonoma County Restaurants Closed in 2024

The back patio at Molti Amici in Healdsburg Wednesday, July 19, 2023. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

I’m not going to candy-coat this — 2024 has been a tough year for local restaurants. The list of closures is longer than the one of inspiring newcomers, restaurateurs are getting squeezed by the soaring cost of goods and a lack of trained staff, and diners are outraged by high prices, opting to eat out less as a result.

Adding insult to injury, spring and summer foot traffic was lackluster in 2024, according to many local restaurateurs I spoke to. This was the worst summer they’ve experienced in recent memory, they said, including during the pandemic. That means less padding for the quiet winter months and, as we’ve seen, restaurant closures increasing in November and December.

Meanwhile, San Francisco — a feeder destination for Sonoma and Napa tourism — has continued to be an unappealing destination due to its problems with homelessness and crime, according to the Sonoma County Tourism Board.

Anecdotally, I’ve seen more and more chefs giving up the business altogether for more stable corporate careers, which is heartbreaking but understandable.

So, with a tear in my eye and a hole in my heart, here are the most significant restaurant closures in 2024.

Chalkboard closure in March
The “Candy Bar” with brownie, caramel, roasted milk chocolate cremeaux and nougat ice cream is served at the Chalkboard Restaurant in Healdsburg. Chalkboard closed in March of 2024. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)
Second Story closure
Second Story, the upstairs, plant-based restaurant at Little Saint in Healdsburg, Sept. 8, 2023. Second Story closed in June of 2024. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Chalkboard (March): After several chef shuffles, the longtime Healdsburg restaurant at Hotel Les Mars quietly closed then reopened in June as Arandas with former “MasterChef” contestant Adrien Nieto as its opening chef. Three months after his arrival, Nieto left the restaurant to his chef de cuisine to become the head of winery culinary operations at Foley Entertainment Group.

Second Story (June): One of my Best Openings of 2023, the upstairs dining room/music venue in the multiuse Little Saint was headed by former NOMA chef Stu Stalker, who created a transcendent 100% plant-based menu. I was beyond wowed, but the restaurant faltered. Little Saint’s more casual downstairs cafe and lounge remain open.

Monday Bakery (August): The Napa and Sonoma locations of this popular bakery closed in early August after a fire at the Napa production facility. Owner Sally Geftakys said she had planned to close both locations before the fire. Ohm Coffee Roasters has replaced the Sonoma location.

Monday Bakery closed in August of 2024
Sally Geftakys, chef and founder of Monday Bakery, with locations in Napa and Sonoma. The bakery closed in August of 2024. (Courtesy Monday Bakery)

Vine Burgers (August): Chef James Byus III opened this restaurant in 2022 with a passion for burgers and wine. But despite excellent food and many positive reviews, its off-the-beaten-track location on Industrial Drive in north Santa Rosa was difficult to maintain.

Townes (September): The ambitious restaurant that took over the sprawling Third Street Aleworks location closed abruptly in September after only nine months. However, owner Lowell Sheldon reopened the downtown Santa Rosa restaurant as Downtown BBQ in November.

19Ten (October): Kin and KinSmoke owners JC Adams and Brad Barmore had high hopes for this Railroad Square restaurant (formerly Jack & Tony’s). Despite success at their other two restaurants, the eclectic menu and strong bar program faced stiff competition from nearby Jackson’s, Grossman’s, Lococo’s and ultimately the foot traffic never materialized. The restaurant closed only a year after opening.

Woodfour (October): The Barlow brewpub that launched Ramen Gaijin as a pop-up tried and failed to keep diners interested after on-again, off-again attempts at upscale food.

Folktable closure
At Folktable restaurant in Sonoma. Folktable closed in November of 2024. (Erika Cole)

Folktable (November): Despite critical acclaim, the Cornerstone marketplace restaurant associated with Sonoma developer Ken Mattson’s Sonoma’s Best Hospitality Group faced the same unfortunate fate as several of Mattson’s other food and wine properties. Mattson is currently under federal investigation and facing several lawsuits for investment fraud.

Molti Amici (November): Another Best Opening of 2023, this Healdsburg restaurant was beyond impressive initially, but cracks began to show early on. Time limits on tables put diners off, opening chefs moved on and rumors of financial irregularities surfaced. Pop-ups became more frequent and, ultimately, the restaurant’s public face, Jonny Barr, left the area. A sad arrivederci.

The Pharmacy (November): This popular cafe on Sonoma Avenue featured crave-worthy but pricey sandwiches and salads made with locally sourced, organic ingredients. The lack of seating and bathrooms remained a challenge, but the restaurant had a devoted fan base for more than eight years.

Molti Amici closure
A pizza at Molti Amici in Healdsburg. Molti Amici closed in November of 2024. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Southern Fried Chicken Dinner with leftover collards, mac and cheese, bacon truffle gravy and Calabrian chili honey with The Derby Cocktail from Easy Rider in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Southern Fried Chicken Dinner with leftover collards, mac and cheese, bacon truffle gravy and Calabrian chili honey with The Derby Cocktail from Easy Rider in Petaluma. Easy Rider will close at the end of 2024. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Easy Rider (planned closure Dec. 31): The Southern-inspired restaurant in downtown Petaluma that opened in 2022 gave no reason for its impending closure, but an unnamed buyer plans to take over the space. Chef and co-owner Jared Rogers joined the team of the recently opened Cock Robin at The Barlow in July.

Cattlemen’s Petaluma (planned closure Dec. 31): After 54 years, the steakhouse will close due to the “sale of property and new business development plans.”

Franchettis’ (planned closure Dec. 21): After 10 years, chef John Franchetti and his wife, Gesine, will close their German and Italian restaurant in Santa Rosa. Franchettis’ opened as Rosso Eventi + Rosticerria in 2014, focusing on rotisserie chicken and hand-tossed pizzas. After Franchetti and Rosso co-owner Kevin Cronin split in 2015, the menu changed to include signature entrees like ‘Chetti’s spicy chicken, polenta and woodfired vegetables, as well as sandwiches and breakfast items.

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.