If roads and scenery have a way of evoking moods, then there’s definitely a barometric change in tone as you head north on Highway 101 beyond Healdsburg and Cloverdale. Winding curves grow sharper as surrounding hills run up to the edge of the road. Signs advertise fossils, crystals and unusual rocks. Not long after crossing into Mendocino County on a steel truss bridge over the Russian River, the road narrows to two lanes and you roll into Hopland — a town that treasures its past and is eager to share it with curious visitors.
The perfect example is the Thatcher Hotel. Almost foreboding in its charcoal and gray facade, the gorgeously renovated 1890s Victorian opens into a warm, spacious lobby framed by an original marble-topped bar pouring holiday drinks like pumpkin spice White Russians and pear bourbon old fashioneds. A Christmas tree towers over the stately library room (yes, Jack London’s “Call of the Wild” is on the shelf).
Behind the hotel, a popular train depot once flourished, where brakemen would make jokes about “hopping off in Hopland.” Named after the bitter flowers that flavor beer, Hopland once drew hundreds of seasonal workers for the annual hop harvest, later shipping its prized bounty to brewers around the world.
Today, the hops are gone. But that hasn’t stopped Thatcher owner Gary Breen from buying the recipe to defunct Mendocino Brewing Company’s popular Red Tail Ale. Thanks to an onsite nano-brewery, Red Tail is still always on tap at the bar.
Grapes are thriving in the region these days. From giant Bonterra (formerly Fetzer) to smaller destinations like Campovida, Alta Orsa and Blue Quail, the name of the game is organic, regenerative farming. Family-owned tasting rooms embrace the season, with a gingerbread house contest at Graziano, McNab Ridge and Brutocao wineries. Located in a former high school, Brutocao is also a good setting for a bocce ball game, weather permitting.
A trip to The Golden Pig for dinner is a must. Owner Julie Golden runs the restaurant, which goes through four to six hogs and one steer a month, sourcing from local farms including her own 2,000-acre Heart Arrow Ranch. Golden also offers tastings of Coro, a prized local cooperative wine blend of Zinfandel and Mediterranean varietals, all sourced from Mendocino County.
A stone’s throw north, the Bluebird Cafe is a great place for breakfast or lunch. Say hi to the giant moose mounted on the back wall (“some people call him ‘Marty,’ some people call him ‘Bullwinkle,’” says server Sharon Kyriakos) before you dig into a Bluebird Benedict or a blueberry blintz.
And five miles east of town, the UC Hopland Research & Extension Center offers classes in farming and animal husbandry. If you’re lucky, you might see a few wobbly newborn lambs just getting their feet under them.
Early winter is a delightfully slow time of year in Hopland, but even in the summer this southern Mendocino hamlet never strives for the trendy hustle-and-bustle of wine destination towns to the south.
“Hopland is still sort of that unknown place that you pass through,” says Thatcher Hotel general manager Amy Pardini. “You’re going 65 miles an hour on Highway 101, and you’re brought down to 35 miles an hour for a blip, and then you’re back to 65 miles an hour again. A lot of people don’t really even see us.”
But they should.
Where to visit
Thatcher Hotel
This copper-steepled Victorian boasts 18 updated modern rooms and a pool and spa. 13401 Highway 101, 707-723-0838, thatcherhotel.com
The Golden Pig
Holiday drinks at this “farm-driven” locally sourced restaurant include the Hopland Toddy with Stave Robber Ryed Bourbon, Rapscallion Spiced Apple liqueur, lemon juice and honey. 13380 S. Highway 101, 707670-6055, thegoldenpig.com
Campovida
Look for Italian varietals like Nero d’Avola, Nebbiolo and Negroamaro at this organically farmed vineyard and winery. 13601 Old River Road, 707-744-8797, campovida.com
Bluebird Cafe
This roadside diner is reminiscent of a Southern greasy spoon, but with a moose watching over everything. 13340 Highway 101, 707-744-1633
UC Hopland Research & Extension Center
This 5,300-acre educational facility offers guided hikes as well as classes like Sheep Shearing 101. 4070 University Road, 707-744-1424, hrec.ucanr.edu