On one hand, Glen Ellen is the town that Jack built. Nearly every sign references freewheeling roustabout author Jack London, from the burger on the menu at the local watering hole to the lively miniature boat races on Sonoma Creek each spring.
But on the other hand, even if the “Valley of the Moon” author had never set foot in this charming village, it would still lure countless visitors looking to get away and feast on everything that ripens around this enclave at the base of Sonoma Mountain.
“It’s the kind of place where everybody knows everybody, but we love sharing it with newcomers,” says Kim O’Donnell, event manager of the saloon and adjacent Jack London Lodge. “Tourists come into the saloon and hang out with the locals, and hours later they leave as friends.”
A Dickensian scene unfolds each year in front of the saloon in early December when a vintage carriage pulled by majestic Percheron draft horses picks up visitors for sing-along carols.
As in any French country village, a boulangerie is at the heart of daily life here. The rustic Les Pascals, run by husband-and-wife team Pascal and Pascale Merle, originally from Lyon, France, and their son Enzo, always makes extra bûches de Noel and peppermint mochas for the holidays. The copper rail that runs along the back wall of the cafe was rescued from a 1960s biker bar once located in the 1906 building next door.
The most coveted table in town is at Glen Ellen Star, where chef Ari Weiswasser finds art in seasonal menus that spotlight wood-fired vegetables, whole-roasted fish and wagyu steak. Wineries and tasting rooms abound, from Benziger to Arrowood to sixth-generation family vintner Katie Bundschu’s Abbot’s Passage. But by far the most unique experience is at Dane Cellars, where the tasting room is housed inside an enormous, hundred-plus-year-old redwood wine tank.
For a breathtaking, seasonal hiking experience, meander through the Sonoma Botanical Garden, a carefully curated Asian woodland that comes to life every fall with Amur maple leaves turning garnet beside golden chestnut trees in November, followed by the crimson leaves of five-lobed maple and beautyberry trees in December.
Of course the main attraction has always been Jack London State Park, as locals like Wine Country Trekking owner Greg Guerrazzi freely admit. “He’s still our claim to fame.”
Wander through the “The House of Happy Walls” museum, see the cottage where London wrote novels and short stories, and hike to his grave and his dream house, “The Wolf House,” which tragically burned down in 1913.
Memorialized in a painting at the saloon, London once described a late afternoon horse ride this time of year, as “the grapes on a score of rolling hills are red with autumn flame” and “wisps of sea fog” settled across Sonoma Mountain. “I have everything to make me glad I am alive,” he wrote.
More than a century later, Glen Ellen still evokes that feeling.
Where to visit
Jack London Saloon
This locals’ favorite watering hole, once known as “the Benzigers’ lower office,” according to the manager, may as well be a museum with all the Jack London memorabilia on the walls. 13740 Arnold Drive, 707-9963100, jacklondonlodge.com
Les Pascals
Quick with a flaky croissant or a fresh baguette, the French owners say Glen Ellen reminds them of old Lyon, the city where they started making Buche de Noel as teenagers. 13758 Arnold Drive, 707-934-8378, lespascalspatisserie.com
Glen Ellen Star
This cozy Michelin-recognized restaurant revolves around the wood oven, from the rustic pizzas to the whole branzino. Look for festive holiday lights on late sculptor Chuck Gillet’s funky water tower across the street. 13648 Arnold Drive, 707-343-1384, glenellenstar.com
Dane Cellars
Tastings inside a historic redwood wine tank, by appointment. 14300 Arnold Drive, 707-529-5856, danecellars.com
Abbot’s Passage
Look for a holiday photo booth, face painting, and custom clothing and home goods at the annual Winter Market on Dec. 8, plus wines and home goods any time of year. 777 Madrone Road, 707-939-3017, abbotspassage.com
Olea Hotel
This idyllic boutique hotel, nicely remodeled after the 2017 fires, is clustered around a heated pool with views that overlook the valley. 5131 Warm Springs Road, 707-996-5131, oleahotel.com
Sonoma Botanical Garden
Walk among gorgeous plants like Japanese barberry and harlequin glorybower at this Asian woodland park. The nonprofit garden hosts holiday table centerpiece classes featuring berries, pinecones and fresh greens. 12841 Hwy. 12, 707-996-3166, sonomabg.org
Jack London State Park
Bring good walking shoes because there’s plenty to explore, from the ruins of the Wolf House to the House of Happy Walls museum built by the acclaimed author’s wife, Charmian, after he died in 1916. 2400 London Ranch Road, 707-938-5216, jacklondonpark.com