Sebastopol Floral Designer Transports Customers to Europe — One Bouquet at a Time

Nicole Buttitta prepares flower bouquets at her potting shed in Sebastopol. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

On foggy spring mornings, there’s often a small fire burning in the blue woodstove inside Nicole Buttitta’s potting shed on the rural Sebastopol farm she shares with her husband, Fred Reid. The rustic, wood-framed shed, with a clear corrugated roof and big barn doors that slide open onto a small grove of redwoods, was a gift from Fred to Nicole, who met a decade ago in the parking lot of the place where they boarded their dogs. Fred invited Nicole to his family’s farm to exercise their dogs in the fields, and the two ended up walking and talking for three hours. A relationship, one built on a shared love of the land and the outdoors — and of course, on a love of dogs — was cemented that day.

Fred, an airline executive, grew up working in the summer on the 40-acre farm alongside his aunt, who bought the land in the 1960s to raise Black Angus cattle, horses, and llamas and sell Gravenstein apples to the Manzana processing facility in Graton. He inherited the farm from his aunt two decades ago, and over time, rebuilt the old farmhouse to suit the needs of a bachelor with three grown sons. He and Nicole, who also has three grown children, have since adapted the property for the next stage of their lives together, adding new flower fields and a large chicken coop in addition to the potting shed and other outbuildings.

“The shed was born out of my desire to just geek out as a gardener and a flower farmer, but also as a gathering place for family,” says Nicole. “We have these six children together, two daughters-in-law, a couple of grandkids now, and we have big family meals out here.”

Sebastopol flower farmer Nicole Buttitta arranging floral bouquets
Sunlight filters through the clear corrugated roof of the potting shed, and there are wide tables for processing blooms for Nicole Buttitta’s shop. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

When the couple married in 2017, the band for the reception set up inside the potting shed, and guests danced out on the lawn under the redwoods until late in the evening. The shed has a big table down the center, plenty of comfy places to sit, shelves for gardening books, and built-in storage for vases, watering cans, and other gardening equipment. An upholstered bench pulls out to make a bed for the grandkids, who think it’s an adventure to nap outdoors in summer.

There’s also a big sink and wide concrete countertops for starting seed trays and arranging flowers, features that come in handy for Nicole, who opened Healdsburg’s Maison Fiori, a European-style flower shop, in July 2024. Many of the flowers she sells at the shop are grown at the Sebastopol farm.

These days, the farm is alive with the clamor of spring, including baby birds and possums in the fields, bees buzzing in four hives at the edge of the orchard, and some two dozen laying hens in the coop, which supply Nicole’s Healdsburg shop with fresh eggs.

Sebastopol flower farmer Nicole Buttitta
Nicole Buttitta raises chickens and farms flowers at a rural Sebastopol farm for her shop in Healdsburg. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

“The fawns come a little bit later in the spring, and we have two wild herons that hunt gophers in the field. I see them almost every day — they’ll tolerate my presence for a bit and then take off in that beautiful slow, sweeping flight.”

Spring on the farm is “energetic,” says Nicole, who says that she and Fred revel in the palette of vivid greens from the grasses and trees and pale pinks from the apple blossoms. In the garden, tidy rows of tulips and daffodils begin to give way to roses and peonies leafing out. When the tulips are spent and ready to be taken out, that’s when the dahlia tubers go into the ground.

“That’s when the work of tending and weeding and composting really starts. You get a sense for what’s doing well, what needs more nutrients, but Mother Nature has her way, and I need to give room to that,” says Nicole. “I do my part, but then nature says ‘OK, my turn now.’”

Both Nicole and Fred say that their relatives, especially Fred’s late aunt, would be pleased to know the land is still in cultivation. Farm to Pantry comes each summer to harvest the Gravenstein apples to distribute to people in need, and Nicole’s flower fields are thriving. “Fred wants to be the best steward of this place,” says Nicole. “He tends this land — he just has this reverence for it. He knows it intimately.”

Fred Reid and Nicole Buttitta’s rural Sebastopol farm
Fred Reid and Nicole Buttitta’s rural Sebastopol farm was founded by Fred’s aunt in the 1960s. Fred stewards the land and tends the redwoods and apple trees, while Nicole raises chickens and farms flowers for her shop in Healdsburg. “There’s just so much history here on this land,” says Nicole. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

Nicole, the daughter of an immigrant from Sicily who found work as a pruner before starting his own landscape design business, feels the pull of her late father’s lessons. “When we were younger, on the weekends and in the summer, my brother and I were our dad’s garden labor force. I hated it at the time — and look at me now,” she laughs. “I think if my dad had come here, he would have really liked this place.”

Nicole says that the peace they have found there, tending the gardens and orchards has become more resonant this spring. Their son and his family fled wildfire in Los Angeles and moved in with them at the farm for a few weeks in January. Nicole, who lost nearly all of her belongings in a residential house fire in 2009, understands the well of emotions that many Sonoma County locals felt upon witnessing the devastation to the south. “You pick up and put one foot in front of the other, but it still hurts. And every time we smell smoke, we think in a way that people who haven’t experienced a fire don’t necessarily understand.”

floral bouquets
Flower bouquets at Nicole Buttitta’s potting shed. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

Wednesdays are harvest days in the flower fields to supply hand-tied bouquets for her store. Nicole stages multiple buckets of water the night before so they’re ready to go, and is in the garden by early morning. She pulls her tractor up to the back gate of the flower field and harvests quickly to get the cut blooms out of the sun and into the shop as soon as possible. Farming and running a shop wasn’t necessarily what she imagined for this stage of her life.

“But I love how happy and joyful and excited people get when they see the flowers. People tell me about their gardens, and I answer questions, and that’s been really good,” she says. “As I grow older, instead of life becoming narrower, our life has really expanded in a way I didn’t know it could.”

The Best Hidden Gem Restaurants in Every Sonoma County Town

The fried chicken sandwich at Twin Oaks Roadhouse on Old Redwood Highway in Penngrove. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)

They might not stand out as much as a Michelin-starred spot or a multi-story eatery on Healdsburg Square, but overlooked spots can be found all around Sonoma County.

When talking about the Sonoma County dining scene, there are the famous restaurants we brag about to fancy out-of-town friends. Then there are the treasured little spots we like to keep secret: the diners, delis, convenience stores and under-the-radar eateries that rarely get the accolades they deserve but somehow still remain popular with neighborhood regulars.

We call them our “townie” spots: places you can walk to and share a meal with friends, where they have that one dish you just can’t live without. Everyone has their own list of these not-so-secret places, but here are some of our favorites.

Santa Rosa

Canevari's Deli is a hidden gem in Santa Rosa, Sonoma County
The Sausage and Peppers Sandwich with a Spicy Deviled Egg from Canevari’s Delicatessen in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Canevari’s Deli: A Santa Rosa Junior College neighborhood classic that’s been around since, well, as long as anyone can remember. They have a tri-tip BBQ sandwich, meatball sub and homemade raviolis, and where else can you get a good gabagool? 695 Lewis Road, canevarisdeli.com

Lita’s Cafe: We know where the cops go for hearty, gut-filling breakfasts. Really, what better recommendation can you get than that? 1973 Mendocino Ave., 707-575-1628

Tambayan Filipino Eatery: You’ll find authentic Filipino cuisine here, like banana sauce, pork belly and pork sisig that make it worth the trip. 600 Larkfield Center, tambayanfilipinocuisine.com

Taqueria Molcajetes: This strip-mall Mexican restaurant has a local following who live for their carne asada and fiery molcajetes. 1195 W. College Ave., 707-544-8280

Walter Hansel Bistro: An excellent French bistro without all the hoity-toity. Lobster bisque, boeuf Bourguignon, Coquille St. Jacques — bon appetit! 3535 Guerneville Road, walterhanselbistro.com

Sebastopol

Burger from Lunchbox. (Courtesy of Lunchbox)
Burger from Lunchbox. (Courtesy of Lunchbox)

Lunchbox: Lunch Box burgers are the kind of messy, smushy, everything-good-about-beef burgers paired with “dirty fries,” a pile of crispy fries, chevre ranch dressing, bacon, green onion, roasted garlic and pepperoncini. You’ll need a handful of napkins and a stout appetite. 128 N. Main St., lunchboxsonomacounty.com

Cotati

Shige: Along with Hana Japanese in Rohnert Park, this is one of the few Japanese-run restaurants in Sonoma County with Tokyo-worthy nigiri and udon. (There’s also a second location in Sonoma.) 8235 Old Redwood Highway, shige-sushi.com

Windsor

PizzaLeah: Leah Scurto is an award-winning pizzaiolo who puts every bit of her soul into making the best pies in Sonoma County. We’re obsessed with the Old Grey Beard with mozzarella, fontina, sausage and hot honey. 9240 Old Redwood Highway, Suite 116, pizzaleah.com

Healdsburg

Cachapa, a fresh corn pancake with mozzarella fresco, shaved broccoli salad, and honey lemon vinaigrette at Guiso Latin Fusion restaurant in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Cachapa, a fresh corn pancake with mozzarella fresco, shaved broccoli salad, and honey lemon vinaigrette, at Guiso Latin Fusion restaurant in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Seafood Ramen with a medley of scallops, shrimp and squid in a shiso ponzu broth from Taste of Tea in Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Seafood Ramen with a medley of scallops, shrimp and squid in a shiso ponzu broth from Taste of Tea in Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Guiso Latin Fusion: Named one of the best restaurants in America by Open Table, this tiny cafe mixes Latin and Caribbean flavors with panache. 117 North St., guisolatinfusion.com

Journeyman Meat Co.: Stop in for a salumi tasting or order one of their daily sandwiches or meaty sausages. 404 Center St., journeymanmeat.com

Taste of Tea: Healdsburg gets plenty of play for its chef-driven cuisine, but we like the homey Japanese flavors of this tea shop. 109 North St., thetasteoftea.com

Geyserville

Geyserville Gun Club: This Fellini-esque watering hole is almost too absurdly wonderful to be true. Brought to life by chef Dino Bugica, it’s the flip side of his more tourist-friendly Diavola Pizzeria and Salumeria. 21025 Geyserville Ave., geyservillegunclub.com

Cloverdale

Dahlia & Sage Community Market: A charming gourmet grocer with lots of locally sourced goodies, including a full deli, hot bar, salad bar and bakery. 115 E. Second St., dahliasagemarket.com

Penngrove

The fried chicken sandwich at Twin Oaks Roadhouse on Old Redwood Highway in Penngrove. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)
The fried chicken sandwich at Twin Oaks Roadhouse on Old Redwood Highway in Penngrove. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)

Twin Oaks Roadhouse: Fried chicken sandwiches are the best bet. Come also for the live music, fresh beer, good friends and bread pudding with whiskey cream. 5745 Old Redwood Highway, hopmonk.com/twin-oaks

Penngrove Market: An adorable gourmet grocer and kitchen. Try the pizza or piandine. 10070 Main St., penngrovemarket.com

Petaluma

Pearl: Mediterranean cuisine spot tucked away in a surprising place. We recommend it for a brunch with someone special. 500 First St., pearlpetaluma.com

Sax’s Joint: You’ll find plenty of people waiting to get in on the weekend, but outside of Petaluma, Sax’s is pretty much unknown. All the usual diner fare is done deliciously. 317 Petaluma Blvd. S., saxsjoint.com

Rohnert Park

Smokin' Bowls is a hidden gem in Rohnert Park, Sonoma County
Rohnert Pork with fries, bacon, green onion, cheese and pulled pork at Smokin’ Bowls in Rohnert Park. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Smokin’ Bowls: French fries topped with so much yum. 295 Southwest Blvd., smokinbowls.com

Azalo!: Charbroiled kabobs, burgers and dogs. Conchinita pibil is a best bet. 5979 Commerce Blvd., Suite 8, 707-303-7702

Graton

Willow Wood Market Cafe: Though this breakfast and brunch spot has been around since 1995, it’s often overlooked in the one-stop-sign town of Graton. Try their homey-yet-impressive menus. 9020 Graton Road, willowwoodgraton.com

Kenwood

Palooza Brewery and Gastropub: Patio dining with burgers, wood-fired pizza and more. A permanent outdoor space has towering heaters and plenty of coverage to keep you warm during chilly evenings. 8910 Sonoma Highway, paloozafresh.com

Glen Ellen

Glen Ellen Village Market and Deli: You’ll be amazed at the deli case, prepared foods and gourmet goodies hidden in this unassuming grocery store. It’s possibly one of Wine Country’s best-kept secrets. 13751 Arnold Drive, glenellenvillagemarket.org

Sonoma

Spread Kitchen in Sonoma
A Pita Bar with (clockwise from top left) herbs and salad, pita bread, farmer’s market pickles, mint yogurt sauce, chicken and beef shawarma and tomatoes from Cristina Topham, owner of Spread Kitchen in Sonoma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Spread Kitchen: Chef Cristina Topham (known for her catering and farm market food) has opened a humble Lebanese-style cafe with fresh pita with hummus, beef and chicken shawarma, chickpea and black bean falafel and beef and lamb kofta. 18375 Sonoma Highway, spreadkitchensonoma.com

Occidental

Altamont General Store: A lunch favorite in Occidental, the Altamont General Store is a breath of fresh air, with an Instagram-worthy interior and plenty of grab-and-go dishes. 3703 Main St., altamontgeneralstore.com

Guerneville

Koala’s Fine Food: Sushi restaurants aren’t exactly a dime a dozen in far west Sonoma County, but then again, neither are cheese steaks. This casual family-run eatery brings together fish and chips, Korean bulgogi, Chinese won ton soup, Japanese ramen, cheese steak, nigiri and Hawaiian poke for a true something-for-everyone experience. 16380 Mill St., Suite A, koalasfinefood.com

Monte Rio

Lightwave Coffee and Kitchen is a hidden gem in Monte Rio, Sonoma County
Shakshuka — a Middle Eastern dish of poached egg, zesty tomato sauce, onions and a side of hummus and puffy pita bread — at Lightwave Coffee and Kitchen in Monte Rio. (Daniel Beck/Sonoma County Tourism)

Lightwave Coffee and Kitchen: Located by the Creekside Skatepark, this curious little cafe is a mix of smoothies, bagels, pies and Middle Eastern cuisine. 9725 Main St., lightwavecafe.square.site

Northwood Bistro at the Northwood Golf Club: This hidden gem golf club has its own cafe with a lovely outdoor patio overlooking the course. The menu is simple, but the standard pancakes, omelettes and Benedicts just off the green start the day in style. 19400 Highway 116, northwoodbistro.com

Duncans Mills

Cape Fear Cafe: This tasty cafe in a tiny, quaint town features bacon chowder, a regional lineup of egg Benedicts (from grits to crab cakes) and ginger teriyaki chicken. 25191 Main St., capefearcafe.com

Cazadero

Raymond’s Bakery at Elim Grove Cottages: A cute, family-owned bed-and-breakfast with freshly made pastries, focaccia pizza and bread. 5400 Cazadero Highway, cazbakery.com

Bodega Bay

Buttery Dungeness crab sandwich from Ginochio's Restaurant in Bodega Bay. (Heather Irwin / Sonoma Magazine)
Buttery Dungeness crab sandwich from Ginochio’s Restaurant in Bodega Bay. (Heather Irwin / Sonoma Magazine)

Ginochio’s Kitchen: Home to our favorite Dungeness crab sandwich. Ginochio’s buttery, griddled slices of white bread hold huge chunks of freshly picked crab and a slice of melted cheese. 1410 Bay Flat Road, ginochioskitchen.com

Casino Bar and Grill: This is a place to discover accidentally and then love unconditionally. A lineup of pop-up chefs steal the show including the Holly & Tali Show, Hunter Supper Club and more. 17000 Bodega Highway, facebook.com/thecasinobarandgrill

Jenner

Cafe Aquatica: We always, always stop here on trips up the coast for coffee, soup and whatever else sounds delish. 10439 Highway 1, cafeaquatica.com

Stewarts Point

Twofish Baking Company: Freshly made pastries, sandwiches, bread, salads, pizza and soup worthy of a drive up the coast. 32000 Highway 1, twofishbaking.com

Sea Ranch

The Sea Ranch Lodge: The 1960s-era Sea Ranch Lodge reopened in 2021 with new public spaces, including a redesigned restaurant, a new café and expansions to the bar, lounge and general store. 60 Sea Walk Drive, thesearanchlodge.com

The Best Family-Friendly Hotels in Wine Country, Now with Kids’ Camps

With new reports projecting a dip in tourism and a potentially slow summer season in Wine Country, some local hotels are are turning their attention to a particular group of travelers: parents with young children.

In Calistoga, Solage — part of the Auberge Resorts Collection — is preparing to launch an unexpected amenity — a kids’ camp.

“We’ve seen a growing trend of family travel in the Napa Valley and there’s a demand for family-friendly offerings,” said Dave Elcon, Solage’s general manager. “Solage historically has been an adult-focused destination at heart, but we recognize the importance of flexibility for parents.”

Running daily from June 1 through Aug. 9, the camp will welcome children ages 4 to 12. An event space will serve as a home base, but Elcon said activities will be spread throughout the resort’s 22-acre property.

Solage Calistoga Kids' Camp
Solage, Auberge Resorts Collection in Calistoga will offer kids’ camp this summer for guests ages 4 to 12. (Solage, Auberge Resorts Collection)

The Calistoga resort is partnering with Camp Manitou, a travel company that specializes in camp experiences for luxury resorts. The company’s website references a handful of other recent or upcoming resort kids’ camps, including at the Four Seasons Hualalai on the island of Hawaii, Four Seasons Maui Resort at Wailea and The Boca Raton in Florida.

In addition to classic camp activities like craft projects, scavenger hunts and movie nights, Wine Country-themed programming is also on the agenda at Solage. After working off some vacation energy with grape stomping, young campers will get the chance to design a custom label and bottle their own freshly pressed juice.

Daily camp sessions will be offered from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. (lunch included) and 6:30–9:30 p.m. Cost is $150 per child.

Solage, Auberge Resorts Collection, 755 Silverado Trail N., Calistoga, 866-942-7442, aubergeresorts.com/solage

More family-friendly options

Stanly Ranch, Auberge Resorts Collection in Napa offers a seasonal Little Ranchers Camp, connecting children with the wonders of ranch life. (Stanly Ranch, Auberge Resorts Collection)
Stanly Ranch, Auberge Resorts Collection in Napa offers a seasonal Little Ranchers Camp, connecting children with the wonders of ranch life. (Stanly Ranch, Auberge Resorts Collection)
Solage is not the first luxury hotel in Napa Valley to recognize the economic boost family travel can bring to Wine Country. Sister property Stanly Ranch offers a Little Ranchers Camp, connecting children with the wonders of ranch life. Held seasonally, the program operates select days in April, as well as Thursday through Sunday between June and August. The camp is open to resort guests ages 5 to 12. (Children 4 and under must be accompanied by an adult.) Cost is $130 per child.

Stanly Ranch, Auberge Resorts Collection, 200 Stanly Crossroad, Napa, 707-266-7568, aubergeresorts.com/stanlyranch

Kids for All Seasons club at Four Seasons Napa Valley
The complimentary Kids For All Seasons program at Four Seasons Resorts and Residences Napa Valley is for guests 5-12. (Four Seasons Resorts and Residences Napa Valley)

Four Seasons Resorts and Residences Napa Valley has offered its complimentary Kids for All Seasons program since opening in 2021. The program features a variety of activities, such as vineyard walks, scavenger hunts, crafts and games. Available from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily (with 72 hours notice), children ages 5 to 12 are welcome.

Four Seasons Resorts and Residences Napa Valley, 400 Silverado Trail N., Calistoga, 707-709-2100, fourseasons.com/napavalley

Montage Healdsburg offers its Paintbox Children’s Program for resort guests 5 to 12 years old. Daily four-hour sessions run from 1–5 p.m. (a 48-hour notice is required for reservations and cancelations). The $150 per child fee includes arts and crafts, games, outdoor fun and a meal.

Montage Healdsburg Paintbox kids' club
Montage Healdsburg’s Paintbox Children’s Program is open to resort guests 5 to 12 years old. The program includes arts and crafts, games, outdoor fun and a meal. (Montage Healdsburg)

The interactive and complimentary Montage Merits program is designed to encourage kids (and their parents) to get outside and enjoy a variety of family-friendly Wine Country experiences. On-property activities include finding the bee apiary, spotting wildlife or identifying a heritage oak tree.

Families are also encouraged to visit a variety of Sonoma County attractions and local businesses, such as Lake Sonoma, the Charles M. Schulz Museum­­ and Noble Folk Ice Cream & Pie Bar. Kids earn collectible pins for every activity they complete.

Montage Healdsburg, 100 Montage Way, Healdsburg, 707-979-9000, montage.com/healdsburg

More hotels with family-friendly perks

While there are relatively few Wine Country hotels that feature kids’ clubs, there are a number of properties that offer assorted kid-friendly programming.

In Napa Valley, Carneros Resort and Spa (4048 Sonoma Highway) inspires young guests to get their hands dirty on culinary garden tours. Many rooms at Calistoga Motor Lodge (1880 Lincoln Ave.) are stocked with vintage board games, Hula-Hoops and more.

In Santa Rosa, the pool at Flamingo Resort & Spa is a longtime family favorite. (Flamingo Resort)

Sonoma County is home to a fun collection of hotels where it’s great to be a kid. In Santa Rosa, the pool at Flamingo Resort & Spa (2777 Fourth St.) is a longtime favorite. From 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday, The Club at Flamingo offers a Summer Kids Club focused on sports, including yoga, swimming and tennis. Weeklong sessions run from June 9 through Aug. 1. Cost is $550 per child, or $450 for members.

Also, in Santa Rosa, the Family Suite at The Sandman (3421 Cleveland Ave.) sleeps up to five people and is stocked with a selection of games.

After being awed by rhinos, giraffes and zebras at Santa Rosa’s Safari West (3115 Porter Creek Road), kids and kids-at-heart can spend the night at Sonoma County’s Serengeti in one of 30 luxury tents (imported from Botswana) on the 400-acre preserve.

Healdsburg Chef Kim LaVere Shares a Vibrant Late-Spring Menu for the Ultimate Garden Party

Chef Kim LaVere planned the perfect late spring menu for events such as Mother’s Day, graduations and other gatherings. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

May and June are a time for getting together. It’s the season for Mother’s Day, graduations and warm evenings when the sunlight — and the conversation — can last for hours. For chef Kim LaVere, this is also the time of year when her scenic Dry Creek Valley garden begins to overflow with produce and edible flowers, including lavender, roses and vivid orange calendula.

LaVere, a former semi-professional soccer player turned private chef and entrepreneur, sees local food as a key player in both physical and emotional health. The events she produces are plant-forward and garden-fresh, as is her handcrafted lineup of botanical syrups, cocktail salts and teas (landandlocal.com).

“The plants in our gardens are here to support us; there are so many benefits to eating simply and seasonally,” says LaVere.

Chef Kim LaVere's garden party
Chef Kim LaVere planned the perfect late spring, garden-fresh menu for events such as Mother’s Day, graduations and other gatherings. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

The late spring menu she has created here makes excellent use of our local bounty of fresh herbs, berries and more. Think of it as the ultimate welcome to the beginning of summer — seasonal, celebratory, and of course, beyond delicious.

Strawberry-Snap Pea Tartines

Serves 6

Chef Kim LaVere recommends either walnut or olive sourdough as the base for this seasonal appetizer, which combines sweet fruit with crisp snap peas and lemon-y, whipped ricotta (she often uses ricotta from Petaluma’s Bellwether Farms). Slicing the peapods lengthwise on the diagonal allows for a peek at the peas nestled inside, while a garnish of fresh pea shoots adds to the vibrancy of the dish.

garden-fresh appetizer
Chef Kim LaVere’s strawberry-snap pea tartines combine sweet fruit and crisp snap peas from the garden with lemon-y, whipped ricotta. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

1 small loaf or boule sourdough bread, cut into 1-inch-thick slices

3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

12 ounces ricotta

Zest and juice of 2 Meyer lemons

1 tsp. kosher salt

2 cups snap peas, sliced diagonally

1 pint strawberries, thinly sliced

1 bunch mint, destemmed and picked

1 handful fresh pea shoots, to garnish (optional)

Additional extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Heat 2 tbsp. olive oil in a cast iron skillet over medium heat. Working with 2-3 slices at a time, toast the bread for 1-2 minutes on each side, until golden brown. Set aside to cool. Add ricotta, half the lemon zest, half the lemon juice, salt and 1 tbsp. olive oil to a food processor. Pulse until creamy, about 1 minute.

To assemble the tartines, slather each slice of toast with a spoonful of whipped ricotta, leaving a small hollow at the center of each slice. In a small bowl, toss the snap peas with the other half of the lemon juice and 1 tbsp. olive oil. Top the ricotta with the dressed peas and sliced strawberries, and garnish with lemon zest, mint and pea shoots, if using. Drizzle with additional olive oil and serve right away.

Harissa Grilled Chicken and Cauliflower with Yogurt Tahina

Serves 6
garden-fresh dish
Chef Kim LaVere’s harissa grilled chicken and cauliflower with yogurt tahina. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

This light, healthful main course combines chicken marinated overnight in yogurt and harissa with a charred cauliflower salad brightened by quick-pickled currants and fresh herbs. The Middle Eastern spices are amplified by time on the grill, and a simple sauce of yogurt and tahini unites the flavors.

Though the dish involves a few separate steps, it comes together easily. You can prepare the marinated chicken, sauce and pickled currants one day ahead, and the cauliflower and chicken can go on the grill at the same time.

For the Chicken:

3 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs

3 tbsp. harissa dry spice blend

2 cups whole-fat yogurt

1 tbsp. kosher salt

For the Grilled Cauliflower:

2 heads cauliflower

¼ cup avocado oil

For the Quick-Pickled Currants:

½ cup dried currants

½ cup white wine vinegar

1 tsp. sugar

1 tsp. kosher salt

For the Yogurt Tahina Sauce:

1½ cups whole fat yogurt

3 tbsp. tahini

1 garlic clove, grated

Zest of 1 Meyer lemon

2 tbsp. water

2 tsp. chile powder

1 tsp. salt to taste

1 tsp. sumac(optional)

For Serving:

1 tbsp. za’atar (optional)

1 cup fresh herbs, such as flatleaf parsley and mint, to garnish

Lemon wedges, to garnish

Chef Kim LaVere's harissa grilled chicken and cauliflower with yogurt tahina. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)
Chef Kim LaVere’s garden-fresh harissa grilled chicken and cauliflower with yogurt tahina. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

In a large mixing bowl, combine harissa, salt and yogurt with chicken thighs and mix well to incorporate. Place into a 1-gallon plastic bag or glass container, seal tightly, and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or overnight.

Next, place the dried currants in a wide-mouth, heatproof jar with a lid. Combine the white wine vinegar, sugar, salt, and ¼ cup water in a small saucepan and heat over medium, stirring to dissolve the sugar and salt. Remove from heat once the mixture has started to boil and pour the hot liquid over the currants. Allow the mixture to cool, then cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or overnight.

Remove the chicken from the refrigerator 30-45 minutes before grilling and allow to come to room temperature.

While the chicken comes to room temperature, prepare the cauliflower wedges and tahina sauce. Remove any leaves at the base of each head of cauliflower and trim the stem. Cut each head into quarters, leaving the stem intact. Slice each quarter into 3-4 triangular-shaped cauliflower steaks, each about 3/4 inch thick. Spread a large baking sheet with half the avocado oil and lay the cauliflower steaks on the baking sheet. Brush the tops of the steaks with the remainder of the oil and season with salt. Set aside.

In a small serving bowl, whisk together the yogurt and tahini. Add garlic, lemon zest, chile powder, salt and sumac, if using, and whisk until well-combined. If the sauce is too thick, thin with 1-2 tsp. of water until it drizzles easily. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Clean and oil the grates of a grill, and heat to medium high. Remove the chicken from the marinade, wipe off any excess, and discard. Place the cauliflower and chicken on the hot grill (the chicken goes skin-side down first) and grill for 6-8 minutes on each side. Then, turn off the grill, lower the grill cover, and allow the chicken and cauliflower to cook in the residual heat for an additional 8-10 minutes. Stack the cauliflower steaks at the side of the grill to prevent them from drying out while they finish cooking. Before removing the chicken from heat, check that it has reached an internal temperature of 165 degrees.

Arrange the chicken and cauliflower on serving platters. Remove the pickled currants from the refrigerator, drain and add to the grilled cauliflower. Remove the yogurt tahina sauce from the refrigerator and drizzle half on top of the meat and vegetables. Garnish with fresh herbs, za’atar (if using), and lemon wedges, and serve with the remainder of the sauce.

Lavender-Lemon Cups with Shortbread Crumble

Serves 6
dessert garnished with flowers from the garden
Chef Kim LaVere’s lavender-lemon cups with shortbread crumble. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

This elegant dessert adds a lavender-infused whipped cream to a base of homemade lemon curd for a sweet-tart balance that speaks to late spring. You can infuse the lavender into the cream and make the lemon curd up to a day ahead, but wait until just before serving to whip the cream. LaVere notes that fresh or dried rose petals substitute beautifully for the lavender if you prefer their flavor.

For the Lavender Whipped Cream:

1 pint heavy whipping cream

½ cup fresh or dried lavender flowers

1 pinch salt

1 tbsp. agave or maple syrup

For the Lemon Curd:

Zest of 2-3 Meyer lemons

4 ounces Meyer lemon juice (from about 4-6 large Meyer lemons)

½ cup cane sugar

3 whole eggs

3 egg yolks

3 ounces unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch cubes

6 shortbread cookies, crumbled

Edible flowers (optional), to garnish

Chef Kim LaVere's lavender-lemon cups with shortbread crumble. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)
Chef Kim LaVere’s lavender-lemon cups with shortbread crumble. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

First, prepare the lavender-infused cream. Place the lavender flowers in a quart mason jar and pour in half of the cream. Using the back of a spoon or a wooden pestle, gently crush the lavender to release its oil. Pour the remainder of the cream on top, cover, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to one day.

Next, cook the curd in a bain-marie. In a small saucepan with high sides, bring 4-6 cups of water to a gentle boil over medium heat, then turn the heat down to simmer. In a medium stainless steel bowl that fits atop the saucepan, whisk together the lemon juice, zest, sugar, whole eggs and egg yolks. Rest the bowl containing the egg and lemon mixture on top of the saucepan (do not dump the mixture into the water).

While the water in the saucepan below remains at a gentle boil, whisk the egg mixture in the bowl on top continuously for 8-10 minutes, until it reaches a glossy, thick consistency. Remove the egg mixture from the heat and whisk in the butter, one cube at a time. Strain the finished curd through a fine mesh sieve to remove any clumps. Place a sheet of plastic wrap directly on top of the finished curd (to avoid the formation of a skin on top) and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to one day.

About 15 minutes before serving, remove the infused cream from the refrigerator and strain through a sieve into a cold, stainless steel mixing bowl. Discard the lavender. Add a tiny pinch of salt to the infused cream, and whip with a handheld or stand mixer on high until the cream begins to firm. Add the agave or maple syrup and continue whipping until the cream forms peaks, about 5 minutes total.

To assemble each dessert, place 2-3 ounces of cooled lemon curd in a serving glass. Top with a generous spoonful of lavender whipped cream and crumbled shortbread. Garnish with lavender flowers, if using, and serve right away.

Elderflower Spritz

Chef Kim LaVere's elderflower spritz is a delicately flavored sparkling cocktail that includes an elderflower-mint syrup and either sparkling water or sparkling white wine. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)
Chef Kim LaVere’s garden-fresh elderflower spritz is a delicately flavored sparkling cocktail. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

Pretty, pale elderflowers are in season in late spring and make for a delicately flavored sparkling cocktail. If you’d like to make your own cocktail syrup, you can find dried elderflower for sale online. LaVere also sells an elderflower-mint syrup as part of her Land + Local line of botanicals. For an alcohol version of this cocktail, substitute 3 ounces of the sparkling water with a sparkling white wine. LaVere’s local favorites include Lioco 2023 Sonoma County Pet Nat of Chardonnay or Lichen Estate 2018 Anderson Valley Blanc de Gris.

For the Elderflower-Mint Syrup:

½ cup dried elderflowers

1 bunch mint, destemmed, picked and roughly chopped

½ cup Meyer lemon juice

1 cup honey

In a small pot, bring two cups of water to a boil. Turn off heat and add the elderflowers and mint. Cover and let stand for 20-30 minutes. Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth, and wring out. Add the honey and lemon juice and return the mixture to the stove over low heat. Stir until the honey has melted completely and is well incorporated. Transfer the syrup to a clean glass bottle and store, refrigerated, for up to a month.

garden-fresh drink
Chef Kim LaVere’s elderflower spritz is a delicately flavored sparkling cocktail that includes an elderflower-mint syrup and either sparkling water or sparkling white wine. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

To Assemble Each Drink:

2 tbsp. sugar (for sugaring rims)

3-4 leaves fresh spearmint

1 ounce elderflower-mint syrup

5 ounces unflavored sparkling water

Mint and lemon slices, to garnish 

Rub a slice of lemon around the rim of a highball glass or stemless wine glass. Sprinkle sugar on a small plate and roll the glass gently at an angle to sugar the rim. Add the mint to the glass and gently muddle using a wooden dowel. Add 2-3 ice cubes. Pour in the syrup, top with sparkling water (or a mix of sparkling water and sparkling wine), and stir gently. Garnish with mint and a lemon slice.

Sonoma County Spots Among Best Places To Go Glamping, According To Travel + Leisure

AutoCamp’s luxury tent and patio site near Guerneville along the Russian River in Sonoma County. (Madison Kotack / for Mesa Lane Partners)

Travel + Leisure recently released a list of the best places in California to go glamping — which is like camping, but with more panache and amenities. Of the 24 destinations spanning the golden state, four picks are located in Sonoma County.

The travel magazine’s list includes a variety of locales to suit certain needs and interests, such as “best for families” and “underrated hidden gem” (spoiler: that one is in our own wooded backyard).

Out of all the glamping spots in the county, here’s where Travel + Leisure recommends pitching your luxury tent.

Sonoma Treehouse Adventures, Occidental

With a queen bed and bunk beds, each treehouse is designed to sleep up to four people. Treehouses will also have a sink and compostable toilet. (Courtesy of Sonoma Canopy Tours)
With a queen bed and bunk beds, each treehouse is designed to sleep up to four people. Treehouses will also have a sink and compostable toilet. (Sonoma Treehouse Adventures)
At the end of the zip line tour, a final, private zip line delivers adventure seekers to a hiking trail. It leads the way to a hillside bridge that allows for easy walking access to the treetops. Guests’ bags and snacks will be waiting in the treehouses. (Courtesy of Sonoma Canopy Tours)
At the end of the zipline tour, a final, private zipline delivers adventure seekers to a hiking trail. It leads the way to a hillside bridge that allows for easy walking access to the treetops. Guests’ bags and snacks will be waiting in the treehouses. (Sonoma Treehouse Adventures)

Touted as the “underrated hidden gem” of glamping spots, this west county locale boasts more thrilling attractions than just a simple hike in the forest. Guests can zipline through the redwoods to their private treehouse — or take one of the eight sky bridges from one of two wooden spiral staircases wrapped around a towering tree.

Treehouses accommodate up to four people and are comfortably appointed with furniture and plumbing (yes, now you can shower while you camp). Gourmet breakfasts and dinners are served room-service style to the treehouses. After a luxurious night’s sleep in the trees, guests can repel down from their treehouse and go on a guided zipline or hiking tour. Prices range from $1,046 to $1,932 per night, depending on availability and number of guests. 6250 Bohemian Hwy., Occidental, 1-888-494-7868, sonomacanopytours.com

Wildhaven Sonoma, Healdsburg

Just steps from the Russian River, there are 30 safari-style canvas tents to choose from at Wildhaven Sonoma in Healdsburg. (Wildhaven Sonoma)
Just steps from the Russian River, there are 30 safari-style canvas tents to choose from at Wildhaven Sonoma in Healdsburg. (Wildhaven Sonoma)
Wildhaven Sonoma has direct access to the Russian River, a nice perk for glampers. (Wildhaven Sonoma)
Healdsburg’s Wildhaven Sonoma has direct access to the Russian River, a nice perk for glampers. (Wildhaven Sonoma)

Tucked by the Russian River and just 10 minutes away from prime dining and wine tasting in Healdsburg, Wildhaven offers easy access to the best of Wine Country. In addition to riverside cabins, Wildhaven offers standard, premium and riverside glamping tents — all with queen beds (plus a large family tent with bunk beds). Amenities include complimentary Wi-Fi, electricity, heating, fan, heated mattress pads, fire pit and picnic table, and a covered porch with patio furniture set. Unique features at the riverside tents include a two-person hammock and string lights on the tent ceiling. Rates start at $89 per night. 2411 Alexander Valley Road, Healdsburg, 707-283-7773, wildhavensonoma.com

AutoCamp Russian River, Guerneville

Airstream trailer at AutoCamp in Guerneville. (AutoCamp Russian River)
Airstream trailer at AutoCamp in Guerneville. (AutoCamp Russian River)
AutoCamp in Guerneville also has glamping tents. (AutoCamp Russian River)
Guerneville’s AutoCamp also has glamping tents. (AutoCamp Russian River)

Camping under the redwoods became even more charming when AutoCamp rolled its shiny aluminum Airstream trailers into Guerneville. In addition to premium Airstreams, campers and cabins, there are “adventure tents” complete with queen-size Tempur-Pedic beds, electric blankets, outdoor fire pits and cooking utensils. AutoCamp also provides complimentary bikes, live music on weekends, an on-site general store and more. Rates start at $289 per night, depending on season and availability. 14120 Old Cazadero Road, Guerneville, 855-942-0792, autocamp.com

The River Electric, Guerneville

The bar and patio area of The River Electric, which is set to open in May. Photo taken in Guerneville on Thursday, February 27, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
The bar and patio area of The River Electric, which is set to open in May. Photo taken in Guerneville on Thursday, February 27, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

Slated to open Memorial Day weekend, this new 12-acre camping resort and swim club features 40 furnished tents along with pools and an events venue. The River Electric has two tent options — one with a king bed and another with two full-size beds — and each includes Egyptian cotton sheets, down bedding, cozy furniture and electricity. Restrooms and showers are in a centrally located bathhouse. A complimentary continental breakfast is served from 7:30-10 a.m. daily.

Two pools are located in the center of the property: a round, 60-foot main pool and “The Little Dipper,” a smaller rectangular pool, available for communal swimming or private rental. The nearby Pool Bar, available to overnight guests and day pass holders, serves locally sourced dishes such as local cod ceviche, grass-fed beef smashburgers and veggie-packed grain bowls. The pools and bar are open from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily, and day passes start at $32. Room rates start from $315 per night. 16101 Neeley Road, Guerneville, 707-937-8915, theriverelectric.com

How a Team of Hobby Growers Made Sonoma County a Hotbed of Rare Fruit

Rare fruit grower David Ulmer in the Sebastopol orchard he calls “Ulmer’s Acre.” (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

In the late ’90s when David Ulmer first moved to Sebastopol, he and his wife started a compost pile in the corner of their yard. one day, a lone peach seedling sprouted from the mound of leftover food scraps.

At this point, it sounds like the beginning of a Roald Dahl novel. And just like any curious character in a children’s book, Ulmer let it grow.

“Being a fruit grower, I said, ‘Let’s see what it does,’” he remembers.

Today, the tree and the variety is known as the Ulmer Compost Peach.

“Everybody laughs and says, ‘Why did you call it that?’ Well, it came up in a compost pile. Why not?”

David Ulmer rare fruit orchard in Sebastopol
A fruit tree begins to bud at David Ulmer’s Sebastopol orchard. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

A possible descendant of the O’Henry peach, it’s an old-fashioned sweet peach with strong acid balance and excellent flavor, with the taste-test ribbons to prove it. Over the years, Ulmer has given away countless fruits, preserves and cuttings, and people have grown their own Ulmer Compost Peach trees all over Northern California and beyond. It’s the dream of any rare fruit grower — not only to graft, prune and grow unique delicacies to eat and share with others, but to maybe one day grow something that has never been grown before.

“Rare fruit growers have to be farmers, detectives, canners — and, most importantly, year-round consumers of what they grow,” says Ulmer, a retired ophthalmologist who grew up in Mississippi, the son of a Methodist preacher. Before he left the South, he had grown more than 160 varieties of plums.

Standing in the middle of his densely planted 1-acre Sebastopol orchard, a former horse corral he calls “Ulmer’s Acre,” he is surrounded by more than 400 varieties of fruit, including hundreds of different apples, pears, peaches, plums, apricots, cherries, blueberries, kumquats, oranges, lemons, limes, pineapple guava, kiwis and even mayhaw — a hawthorn berry famous for the delicious jelly it makes.

Recently grafted trees in one-gallon pots to be shared with fellow enthusiasts at a sale run by the Redwood Chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)
Recently grafted trees in one-gallon pots to be shared with fellow enthusiasts at a sale run by the Redwood Chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

This time of year, during the magical bloom that is springtime in Sonoma County, as bees are buzzing and longer sunny days emerge from the cover of rain, vibrant orchards all over the region are growing unusual varieties of fruit — odd, juicy specimens you’ll likely never see in a supermarket or even at a farmers market.

“Sometimes they’re just not a commercially viable cultivar,” says Rachel Spaeth, a research horticulturist who studies the genetic makeup of rare fruits and is past president of the Redwood Empire chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers (CRFG). “Meaning maybe they have skin blemishes or imperfections, or they ripen unevenly and are not suitable for the commercial market. But for a home grower, they could be fantastic.”

Among the 60 fruit trees Spaeth grows in pots at her southwest Santa Rosa home, one is loaded with 17 different varieties of apples. She doesn’t get a ton of apples on any single branch, but it makes for a deliciously long season, supplying fresh apples from the end of July through December. Along with a jambolan tree native to India, Spaeth also has a “fruit salad tree” with apricots, almonds, peaches, cherries, nectarines, plums and prunes all on one tree, and what she calls a “Frankencitrus” tree, loaded with an array of lemon, lime, naval orange, blood orange, mandarin, pomelo and more.

rare fruit at Sonoma County farm
A tight-knit band of intrepid farmers at the Redwood Empire chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers cultivate hard-to-grow fruits and share their knowledge with anyone who is interested. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

Standing on the shoulders of famed local botanist Luther Burbank and other fruit breeders like Ferndale’s Albert Etter and Sebastopol’s Will Silva, growers like Ulmer, Spaeth and the tight-knit band of intrepid farmers at the Redwood Empire chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers are not only obsessed with cultivating hard-to-grow fruits but also sharing their knowledge with anyone who is interested.

This type of community is exactly what Phil Pieri was looking for 27 years ago when he planted a few apple and plum trees on his Petaluma farm, not long after retiring from a career as a telephone equipment installer. “They were a very knowledgeable group of people, who were not commercial, and were willing and more than happy to show you how to do this and do that, and let you know what you can do and what you really probably shouldn’t do,” says Pieri.

Now, along with Ulmer, he’s one of the wise old sages of the CRFG, offering everything from grafting tips and free scions to tastings and tours of his property. Throughout the year, the local Redwood Chapter offers scion exchanges, tastings and clinics.

Pieri’s advice to newcomers: “Ask questions — be curious, be damn curious.”

One of the wise old sages of the rare fruit growers association, Phil Pieri tells newcomers to ask plenty of questions and “be curious, be damn curious.” (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)
One of the wise old sages of the rare fruit growers association, Phil Pieri tells newcomers to ask plenty of questions and “be curious, be damn curious.” (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)
rare fruit at Sonoma County farm
“Any kind of variety of fruit you can’t find in the store is a rare fruit,” says Phil Pieri. His passion offers the thrill of the hunt and the wonder of rescuing varieties otherwise lost to history. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

Just watching newbies come to a rare fruit tasting for the first time can be nostalgic. “We get people who will come to our tastings, and you can see the ‘aha’ moment after they walk in the door. They’re like, ‘Wow, you have 85 different kinds of apples in here? I didn’t even know that many existed,” says Spaeth, curator of the Prunus collection of fruit and nut trees for the USDA Agricultural Research Service in Davis. After serving as local CRFG event coordinator, secretary, and president, she hardly ever misses a tasting or scion exchange.

“And we’re like, ‘Oh, actually, there’s more like 5,000 kinds of apples.’ And the wheels just start turning. Seeing that sense of discovery and wonder when people first find us helps me relive my own first sense of discovery,” says Spaeth.

On a springtime walk through his Petaluma orchard and greenhouse, Pieri checks on his 200-plus trees, all in different stages of bloom and fruition. Sprinkled among varieties of plums, apples, and peaches are more unique fruits like cherimoya, known for an outer skin in the pattern of an alligator, and the rare Lilly Pilly tree, native to Australia, that bears small, cherry-like fruits. Among his 12 varieties of dragonfruit, there’s American Graffiti and Physical Graffiti, borrowing names from cinema and rock history. A babaco papaya tree, from the mountains in Ecuador, is especially cold tolerant. He also grows tropical white guava, caperberries, black Tartarian cherries, and white sapote.

rare fruit
A rare cherimoya in Phil Pieri’s greenhouse. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

It’s not uncommon for CRFG farmers to suffer from what Spaeth calls “zone denial,” a condition suffered by green-thumb optimists who refuse to admit they don’t live in the tropics and can’t grow bananas in Northern California (a feat accomplished by several Northern California growers). They also go by “zone deniers” for short.

Pieri freely admits to being one of these zone deniers, growing many types of fruits which technically shouldn’t thrive here but do under his careful care — and with the help of several greenhouses. But beyond the challenge of nurturing finicky plants, there’s something else this passion offers to keep him curious and alive with the thrill of the chase.

Sometimes it’s the wonder of rescuing a rare plant that might otherwise be lost to history and time. More than a decade ago, Pieri and a few other comrades in fruit arrived at the scene of a single Burbank avocado tree on a lonely Santa Rosa street corner that had just been chopped down by construction crews making room for a new office building.

“We found three avocados on the ground,” Pieri says. “They weren’t edible, but the seeds were there.”

After carefully germinating the seeds, he now has a healthy specimen of that lost tree growing on his Petaluma farm.

Expert grower Maile Pieri in her family’s hillside orchard in Petaluma. She and her father, Phil Pieri, have each served as chairperson of the local chapter of the rare fruit growers association. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)
Expert grower Maile Pieri in her family’s hillside orchard in Petaluma. She and her father, Phil Pieri, have each served as chairperson of the local chapter of the rare fruit growers association. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

The payoff is not always in the fruit. In this case, Pieri says he’s not particularly fond of the pulpy, striated Burbank avocado flesh, compared to the texture of other varieties. But there’s comfort in knowing he saved something worth saving. He’s reminded of this each time someone asks if they can have a scion from the tree.

“I want it to go on forever,” he says, adding he only knows of a few Burbank avocado trees anywhere in the region.

Like Pieri, research horticulturalist Rachel Spaeth enjoys heading out on a good Indiana Jones-style plant adventure. Growing up in Emporium, Pennsylvania, she learned by necessity to grow and harvest fruit at an early age. Her family didn’t have a lot of money, so to get by, they ate dried apples and canned apple sauce, spiced apple rings, blueberry pie filling and pickles. When she moved to California on a whim with a bunch of friends, she was blown away by the abundance of varieties of fruit.

It didn’t take long until she stumbled upon the delicious “pineapple notes” of the green-yellow Hawaii apple, patented by Sebastopol breeder Will Silva. Wanting to find out more about Silva and his work, she set out with several other gumshoes from the rare fruit growers group to track down one of Silva’s lesser-known varieties.

“There was this other apple called ‘Red Scarlet’ that we kept hearing about,” she says. “We knew that we had patent information for it, but we just couldn’t find it.”

Setting out on a mission they called “The Hunt for Red Scarlet,” they showed up unannounced at “random, weird orchards and talked to old processors, just trying to pick the brains of anybody who might have been around and had some overlap in time and space with Silva.”

Expert growers Phil Pieri, right, and his daughter Maile Pieri in the family’s hillside orchard in Petaluma. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)
Expert growers Phil Pieri, right, and his daughter Maile Pieri in the family’s hillside orchard in Petaluma. (Eileen Roche / Sonoma Magazine)

It turns out that one of the volunteers at Luther Burbank Gardens, where Spaeth worked as curator for 15 years, had purchased a Red Scarlet apple directly from Silva in the early 1950s, and the mature tree was still growing in her yard. To verify, the team looked at the parent apples listed on the patent — Red Bell Flower and Baldwin — eventually tracking down living samples of those parent trees at a heritage apple orchard in Washington. That orchard agreed to send leaf samples from both parents, which Spaeth sent along with leaf samples from the volunteer’s tree to researchers at UC Davis. “They sequenced the genomes and we determined that, yes, this is probably Red Scarlet,” says Spaeth.

Finally, they had their match. For Ulmer, it’s the hunt for obscure varieties and the mission to save them from the brink of extinction that keeps his detective skills in tune. He spends most of his time on his property looking after trees like a rare Winioska-Saska pear from Poland or a mystery tree he grew from a street-scavenged avocado seed. It came from a CRFG member who found an ancient, two-story avocado tree growing near an apartment complex on Sonoma Avenue in Santa Rosa. “He climbed that tree in the middle of the night to harvest the fruit,” Ulmer remembers. After tasting the avocado, Ulmer liked it so much he eventually grew his own tree from those same seeds — but he still doesn’t know exactly what kind of avocado it might be.

The ever-curious Ulmer makes time to help other farmers with their own fruit mysteries. His latest case is a mysterious plum tree in the East Bay. The owner’s grandfather grew it in Menlo Park in the 1930s. Now, the tree is dying, and the grandson wants to determine the variety of plum to try to preserve it. Armed with photos and bud grafts from the old tree, Ulmer is trying to narrow down possibilities until he can zero in on a match. DNA testing is an option, he says, but it’s expensive.

For now, he has no idea how long it might take, but he’s willing to try. “I’m retired, I have all the time in the world,” Ulmer says.

After all these years, is he still obsessed? “Oh god yes,” he says, laughing, his avuncular Southern accent pausing for effect. “Look at me — I’m a variety collector. I want to taste them all. I want to grow them and see how they grow, and I want to share them. It’s a rare individual who doesn’t want to share what they’ve grown.”

Get Burgers and Comfort Food at These Sonoma County Newcomers

The Smashburger and a side of fries from Jilly’s Real Food Roadhouse Friday, April 4, 2025, overlooking the Russia River on Highway 1 near Jenner. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Whether you’re craving a burger with a view or a family-friendly patio with a place for the kids to play, these two restaurants — Jilly’s and Cock Robin — have found their footing after opening in early 2025. Here’s what’s working on their menus.

Jilly’s Real Food Roadhouse

On sunny days, sitting on the rustic patio outside Jilly’s Real Food Roadhouse in Jenner is a Zen moment. There’s a commanding bird’s-eye view of the Russian River as it makes its final bend toward the Pacific Ocean. Owner Jill Lippitt adds warmth to the unadorned restaurant, stopping by each table to greet guests and share her colorful history as a local community organizer and spiritual teacher.

Lippitt took over the former Russian House #1 after co-owners Tatiana Ginzburg, Tatiana Urusova and Polina Krasikova lost their lease on the experimental, pay-what-you-want restaurant and spiritual center that was a head-scratcher to most, but a secret gem to its fans. Jilly’s Real Food Roadhouse quietly opened in late 2024 with a menu of weekly specials from barbecue to rice noodle bowls.

Sonoma County comfort food
The Fried Chicken Plate from Jilly’s Real Food Roadhouse Friday, April 4, 2025, on the coast in Jenner. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

The menu has settled under chef Tommy Hickox, featuring diner-style smashburgers with caramelized onion jam and special sauce ($14 single, $18 double), buttermilk fried chicken ($15 plate with coleslaw and fries, $22 sandwich with slaw), barbecue brisket sandwich ($22) and fresh-cut fries cooked in beef tallow ($6). I’m not typically a fan of fries made in-house because the texture can be unpredictable (some overcooked, some undercooked), and most chefs opt for the simplicity of premade frozen fries. Even Michelin-starred chefs opt for Sysco food service versions for their consistency and value. I’m assured, however, that Jilly’s fries have improved since my last visit.

In May, the roadhouse began serving brunch with a classic lineup of eggs Benedict ($18), veggie scrambled eggs ($16), buttermilk pancakes ($13) and biscuits and pork sausage gravy ($10).

Sonoma County restaurant
Owner Jill Lippit, right, talks with guests at Jilly’s Real Food Roadhouse Friday, April 4, 2025, in Jenner. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Sonoma County restaurant
Jilly’s Real Food Roadhouse Friday, April 4, 2025, on the coast in Jenner. The restaurant serves classic comfort food for lunch and dinner as well as a weekend brunch. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

On cool days, plenty of tables are inside, and the vibe is come-as-you-are, with blue-checkered tablecloths and homespun adornment. Large windows offer million-dollar views overlooking the river and nearby hillsides, all the décor you need.

Beer and wine are available, along with ciders and other beverages in a refrigerated case by the door. Brunch is from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Lunch and dinner are from 11:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Friday through Monday. 9960 Highway 1, Jenner, 707-756-0119.

Cock Robin

Though it opened in late 2024, this fast-casual burger and fried chicken restaurant, spearheaded by Barlow owner Barney Aldridge and former Easy Rider chef Jared Rogers, needed time to settle before I was ready to say much about it.

The sprawling 4,000-square-foot space at the corner of Highway 12 and Morris Street in Sebastopol replaced Seismic Brewing. It’s an homage to one of Aldridge’s favorite childhood restaurants in Naperville, Illinois. At first blush, it seemed a sure-fire winner for the 12-acre outdoor marketplace. Value-oriented dishes like a $9.95 single-patty burger are in line with other fast-casual restaurants like In-N-Out.

Sonoma County comfort food
Fried chicken sandwich with pepper Jack cheese at Cock Robin in Sebastopol’s The Barlow. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Long lines and subpar food at its opening were a stumbling block, but several dishes have improved, including the Classic Robin ($9.95), a well-done beef patty with American cheese, special sauce, tomatoes, shaved onion and shredded iceberg lettuce. Also good were the Wisconsin Burger ($15.95), with fried cheese curds from nearby William Cofield and tomato pork jam, and the Crispy Chicken Sandwich ($13.95), with bacon, avocado, pepper Jack cheese and a kick of Frank’s RedHot sauce. Milkshakes are also solid.

Skip the dipping sauces. French fries are served with a bitter pistachio Romesco sauce that’s all wrong for the fast-casual vibe (please, just use Heinz), and the ranch dressing is so appalling I mentioned it to the staff, asking why they didn’t use the amazing housemade ranch from nearby Acre Pizza, just steps away. Hopefully, things will continue improving because the location is excellent, and a good burger is always a good thing. 6700 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol, 707-503-6466, cockrobin.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

When Vintage Wine Estates Collapsed, Paula Kornell Paved Her Own Path

Napa Valley winemaker Paula Kornell. (Leigh Ann Beverley)

When Napa Valley winemaker Paula Kornell released her inaugural Brut Rosé in March, she was celebrating more than just a new addition to her small portfolio.

She was toasting her success in having any wine at all, after her partnership with Vintage Wine Estates collapsed the previous year (the partnership covered sales and distribution). The behemoth corporation suddenly filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in July 2024, leaving Kornell and some 30 other wine and spirits brands across California, Oregon and Washington unprepared and facing the auction block.

Some big names, like Sonoma County’s B.R. Cohn, Kunde and Viansa wineries, were quickly snatched up by new owners. But Paula Kornell Sparkling Wine, established just eight years ago and producing less than 20,000 cases annually across three wines, was a bit too boutique to be in the spotlight.

Paula Kornell
Napa Valley winemaker Paula Kornell. (Leigh Ann Beverley)

“It really was a shock to the whole wine community that it fell apart,” she said. “Vintage (Wine Estates) bought so many brands, and then I don’t think they put the love and care that all the brands needed. It shows that consolidation is not always for the best. These days, you need to have a great story to sell your wines and, in this marketplace, you really need to have the right (marketing and distribution) bandwidth behind it.”

Kornell tried not to panic during the transition.

“I will say that I was blessed with the fact that I had worked 10 years with Robert Mondavi, and they were a great marketing and sales organization,” she said. “I’m so glad I had that education there, because without that, I don’t know if I would have survived.”

Then, in November, Kornell found new partners, Mike and Jenny Farmer of Calistoga.

Mike Farmer, formerly the president of commercial operations at Builders FirstSource supplies and materials company, now serves on the board of directors for the Leukemia & Lymphoma Society.

From left, winemaker Robin Akhurst, Paula Kornell, Mike Farmer and Jenny Farmer. (Alexander Rubin Photography)
From left, winemaker Robin Akhurst, Paula Kornell, Mike Farmer and Jenny Farmer. (Alexander Rubin Photography)

After nearly 20 years as a labor and delivery nurse, Jenny Farmer now serves on the board of Hope Scarves, an organization dedicated to raising funds for metastatic breast cancer research and patient support.

It was serendipity — the Farmers had been Kornell’s very first customers when she launched her inaugural vintage, a 2017 Napa Valley Blanc de Noir. The trio had bonded over their shared love of wine, dogs and commitment to charitable work. Kornell was the president of the board of directors for Napa Valley Vintners and served on the boards of Napa Humane and Queen of the Valley Medical Center in Napa.

“They (the Farmers) came to my home in St. Helena to drink bubbles with me,” she said. “I call my house Château Drool since I have three dogs. And they have bulldogs.”

The Farmers helped Kornell finish and launch her fourth sparkling, the California Brut Rosé.

Paula Kornell Sparkling Wine
Paula Kornell Sparkling Wine’s inaugural Brut Rosé. (Alexander Rubin Photography)

A personal and professional turning point

Losing her affiliation with Vintage Wine Estates was as much a personal loss as it was a professional one. Kornell’s father, Hanns Kornell — a third-generation German winemaker and Dachau concentration camp survivor — moved to New York in 1939, then hitchhiked to California, eventually leasing a winery in Sonoma in 1952.

Seven years later, he and his new wife — opera singer and doctor Marilouise Rossini — purchased the historic 1895 Larkmead Winery Estate in Napa Valley. They renamed the sprawling property Hanns Kornell Champagne Cellars, where they showcased the Méthode Champenoise sparkling style. (In 1992, the estate was purchased by Frank Family Vineyards.)

Paula Kornell always knew she would be in the wine industry. Born in 1959, she got her first job at 10, selling prunes and walnuts from her grandmother’s orchard and feathers from the family’s peacocks in front of the Hanns Kornell tasting room.

Her career trajectory led her to numerous roles at her parents’ winery, traveling the world and further training at prestigious hotels and wineries. Along the way, she met Vintage Wine Estates co-founder Pat Roney.

Kornell sparkling wine
Napa Valley winemaker Paula Kornell’s sparkling wine poured at an outdoor brunch. (Leigh Ann Beverley)

In 2014, she established a consulting business, Kornell Wine Company, yet quietly dreamed of creating her own label to share the sparkling wines she loves.

“I’d known Pat since the Hanns Kornell days, and when he suggested we do something together, it seemed like a great opportunity,” she said. “And it was. I was given an incredible opportunity to start my own brand, thanks to the boost that Pat gave me. Vintage (Wine Estates) truly left me alone to design and create what Paula Kornell Sparkling is today. It’s just so sad that they went under.”

But Kornell now believes the change propelled her toward greater happiness.

“Mike and Jenny are such great friends and they were aware of all the trials and tribulations I was going through. They kept saying they wanted to help, and sure enough, now they are my new partners. So, I am really very, very lucky.”

Paula Kornell Sparkling Wines, paulakornell.com

16 Favorite Restaurants in Petaluma

Fried Chicken Dinner for Two with a green salad, bean cassoulet and chicken gravy from Table Culture Provisions in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Petaluma is awash with great restaurants, from simple sandwiches to luxurious farm-to-table experiences. It’s never easy to pick favorites, but there are some menus that stand head and shoulders above the rest.

Read on below for our favorite Petaluma restaurants of the moment. Check out the gallery for a peek.

Table Culture Provisions

Table Culture Provisions started quietly, popping up a night or two a week at Petaluma’s Wishbone restaurant. It’s become one of the hottest dining tickets in Sonoma County as owners Stephane Saint Louis and Steven Vargas upped the ante with a Michelin-worthy multi-course tasting menu. From 4 to 6 p.m., TCP offers an a la carte menu of snacks and larger dishes. Reservations recommended. 312 Petaluma Blvd. S., Petaluma, 707-559-5739, tcprovision.com

Table Culture Provisions Petaluma
Table Culture Provisions chef Stéphane Saint Louis serves a collage of late spring bites for two, including squid-ink madeleines, asparagus cappuccino, and golden orbs of Indian pani puri filled with Dungeness crab salad. (Kim Carroll/Sonoma Magazine)

Street Social

With just six tables and 300 feet of dining space, Street Social feels like the most logical extension of the buzzy underground pop-ups that owners Jevon Martin and Marjorie Pier have hosted up and down the California coast for years. With just over a dozen diners in the restaurant at its busiest, it’s unavoidably intimate and makes you feel like you’ve stumbled across a secret culinary hideout. You have. But with a reservation, anyone’s welcome. 29F Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-774-6185, streetsocial.social 

Quiote

This family-owned taqueria is worth a special trip. Their handmade blue corn tortillas — topped with fresh rock cod, cochinita pibil with pickled onions, or al pastor and salsa verde — always make my “best tacos” list. Add a side of guacamole with serrano chiles and crispy raspadas or brothy Rancho Gordo beans to get the full experience.  While you’re there, I highly recommend the Jalisco-style mole and braised chicken enchiladas. 121 Kentucky St., Petaluma. 707-774-6130, quiotemx.com

Tacos from Quiote in downtown Petaluma, Friday, Sept. 8, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Dishes from Quiote in downtown Petaluma, Friday, Sept. 8, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The simple Margherita pizza at Stellina Pronto pizzeria and bakery in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
The simple Margherita pizza at Stellina Pronto pizzeria and bakery in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Stellina Pronto

Come for the pastries, stay for the pizza at this Italian bakery cafe. Opened in 2021 with a mouthwatering lineup of baked goods and sandwiches, Stellina Pronto fired up its pizza ovens in May to churn out Neapolitan-meets-New York style pies. Go for the simple yet classic Margherita or the potato and garlic-topped Gianni — one of the bakery’s best white pizzas. Don’t forget to grab a cornetto during your visit.
23 Kentucky St., 707-789-9556, stellinapronto.com

Stellina Alimentari

Part sandwich shop, part Italian grocer, part deli, part bottle shop — Stellina Alimentari defies easy explanation. Owner Christian Caiazzo aptly describes the narrow, brick-lined, mosaic-tiled eatery as having a New York Attitude with Italian Soul. Don’t miss the Il Michelangelo porchetta sandwich, fried risotto balls, panzarotti potato cakes and antipasti. 160 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, stellinaalimentari.com

Brigitte Bistro

Chef/owner Nick Ronan serves the kind of food he loves best: hearty bistro-style dishes like beef bourguignon and duck confit, along with tableside beef tartare and the requisite steak frites. But instead of pandering to us, he brings the flavors of French homeland directly to the table. Ronan’s favorite motto, “Love. Food. Wine. Passion. Life. People” comes through in his comforting, homey cuisine. 841 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma, brigittebistropetaluma.com

Brigitte Bistro in Petaluma
French onion soup at Brigitte Bistro in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Soban Korean in Petaluma
Dolsot Bibimbap, rice topped with vegetables and fried egg in a sizzling stone pot with beef, with traditional Korean side dishes from Soban Korean in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Soban

Routinely recognized as the best “true” Korean cuisine in Sonoma County, Soban serves up an array of hard-to-find dishes like savory pancakes with kimchi, Japchae (glass noodles), Tteokbokki (chewy rice cake that’s a popular street food), spicy pork Bulgogi, sizzling rice bibimbap and soft tofu soup. 255 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma, 707-769-3112, sobanpetaluma.com

Sarmentine

The third location of this Santa Rosa French bakery favorite opened in 2024, offering a drool-worthy collection of bakery cases piled with cream-filled desserts like Paris Brest (pate a choux filled with praline cream) and Mille-Feuille, chocolate croissants, brioche buns, fruit tarts (the passion fruit is a favorite) and Madeleines. Tiny caneles have a sticky, crunchy crust and custardy center that buckle my knees with happiness. Bonus: The bakery and cafe now serves brunch. 840 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, sarmentine.com

A selection of dishes from the brunch menu at Sarmentine Bakery in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
A selection of dishes from the brunch menu at Sarmentine Bakery in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
The Butchers Board served at Central Market in Petaluma. (Crista Jeremiason/The Press Democrat)
The Butchers Board served at Central Market in Petaluma. (Crista Jeremiason/The Press Democrat)

Central Market

Dressed in his chef’s coat, Tony Najiola looms large over the dining room — watching every dish go out, visiting every table to ensure his patrons are happy — but he never imposes. The open kitchen, dining room and bar feel airy, with full views of the wood-fired oven and the line. But it’s the food, frequently sourced from Najiiola’s Muleheart Farm, that really does the talking here. Instead of foams and potions and powders, the food is just, well, food. 42 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-778-9900, centralmarketpetaluma.com

Pearl

Inspired by the flavors of the Eastern Mediterranean and North Africa (with a little Southern French and Spanish thrown in for good measure), chef/owners Brian Leitner and Annette Yang continue to impress with their sunny interpretations of shakshuka, fresh pita, fattoush salad and braised meats, including brisket and lamb. 500 First St., Petaluma, 707-559-5187, pearlpetaluma.com

Shakshuka with chickpea, fava and tomato stew at Pearl restaurant in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Shakshuka with chickpea, fava and tomato stew at Pearl restaurant in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Meatballs and mashed potatoes at Stockhome restaurant. (Courtesy of newrevmedia.com)
Meatballs and mashed potatoes at Stockhome restaurant. (Courtesy of newrevmedia.com)

Stockhome

A neighborhood hub for unfussy family-friendly Turkish and Mediterranean street food found in the larger cities of Sweden with homey classics like Swedish meatballs, pickled herring and Swedish pancakes on the menu — all of it with a few nods to California as well. Consider it the United Nations of local dining. 220 Western Ave., Petaluma, 707-981-8511, stockhomerestaurant.com

Lunchette

We love the carefully-sourced, healthy and delicious lunch options at this tiny downtown walk-up. The smoked trout salad with preserved lemon vinaigrette, roasted beets, pickled raisins and cashews is our favorite, along with a warm grain bowl with roasted sweet potatoes and chickpeas. Slices of fresh pizza are also available to pair with your salad. 25 Fourth St., Petaluma, 707-241-7443, lunchettepetaluma.com

The Shuckery

Raw oysters are a Sonoma County staple, and I always forget how much I love the small, unassuming Kumamotos at The Shuckery. Dedicated to the humbler oyster, this cozy cafe is a shucker’s dream. Try the Bingos, grilled oysters with Cognac, mayonnaise, Parmesan and garlic. Plus a full bar and outdoor seating. 100 Washington St., Petaluma, 707-981-7891, theshuckeryca.com

The Dozen Oyster plate includes St. Simone, Kummomoto and Hog Island oysters from The Shuckery in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
The Dozen Oyster plate includes St. Simone, Kummomoto and Hog Island oysters from The Shuckery in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Five-piece nigiri at Sake 107 in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Five-piece nigiri at Sake 107 in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Sake 107

Chef Eiji Ando, a Hana Japanese alum, has dedicated his life to the craft. It’s awe-inspiring to watch the flicking of his hands as he shapes the seasoned rice and fish into a single perfect bite, and perfect isn’t a word we use lightly when it comes to nigiri. This is seriously awesome sushi and izayaki in downtown Petaluma that reminds us of what great Japanese food can really taste like. 107 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-241-7580, sake107.com

Brewsters Beer Garden

This 350-seat outdoor beer garden in the heart of downtown Petaluma would be packed no matter what the menu looked like — it’s a great place to have a beer. But the food continues to impress, with smoked brisket, my favorite buttermilk fried chicken sando (it’s the goat cheddar) and seasonal salads. Great for a night out with friends or family. 229 Water St. N., Petaluma, 707-981-8330, brewstersbeergarden.com

Wild Goat Bistro

A waterfront classic with insanely good Neapolitan pizzas (like the four cheese fig and pig with prosciutto and fig spread), polenta fries, Early Girl Dip with heirloom tomatoes and pancetta and dinner entrees including Shepherd’s pie, and wild salmon with roasted artichokes. 6 Petaluma Blvd. N., Suite A5, Petaluma, 707-658-1156, wildgoatbistro.com

8 Must-Try Dishes in Sonoma County

Short Rib Barbacoa Tacos from Quiote in downtown Petaluma, Friday, Sept. 8, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

It’s no secret that Sonoma County is a hotbed of divine cuisine. From world-renowned, Michelin-starred restaurants to hidden gem favorites, one could throw a rock in any direction and stumble upon a worthy eatery. With a vast culinary pool to pull from, our dining editor was tasked with finding the best, must-try local dishes — and these eats do not disappoint.

Barbecue

A&M BBQ

Barbecue powerhouses Kris Austin and Marvin McKinzy teamed up last year for the ultimate Texas ‘cue in Sebastopol. The line can snake out the door, and sometimes they sell out, so it’s good to get there early. “We don’t try to cover up the meat with sauce, so you can taste the time we put into it,” says Austin. 495 S. Main St.,
Sebastopol, 707-888-1315, ambbqllc.com

A&M Barbecue
Texas Toast, cornbread muffins, pork ribs, links, brisket and tri-tip, barbecue chicken, baked beans, coleslaw and collard greens at A&M BBQ in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Ten-layer lasagna at Catelli's is a must-try dish
Ten-layer lasagna at Catelli’s in Geyserville. (Chris Hardy/for Sonoma Magazine)
Ten-Layer Lasagna

Catelli’s

You can literally read a newspaper through each layer of super-thin pasta going into the dish. A family recipe that’s been refined over the years, it has a three-cheese filling of creamy Bellwether Farms ricotta, goat cheese and aged Parmesan. 21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-857-3471, mycatellis.com

Whole Roasted Branzino

Glen Ellen Star

Just about anything from chef Ari Weiswasser’s wood-fired oven is pretty magical, but the flaky, crispy whole roasted fish rises above, especially when served with shaved fennel, preserved lemon and tomato-y romesco sauce. 13648 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-343-1384, glenellenstar.com

The Glen Ellen Star, in Glen Ellen, uses their wood fired oven for a variety of menu items including this whole fish served over a romesco sauce. September 8, 2014 (Photo: Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
Glen Ellen Star uses their wood-fired oven for a variety of dishes, including this whole fish served over a romesco sauce. (Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
The Market Plate with sautéed spinach, copper, roasted tomatoes, hard boiled egg creamy polenta and cambozola toast from Willow Wood Market Cafe Wednesday March 6, 2024, in Graton. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
The Market Plate with sautéed spinach, copper, roasted tomatoes, hard boiled egg creamy polenta and cambozola toast from Willow Wood Market Cafe in Graton. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Perfect Breakfasts

Willow Wood Market Café

Since 1995, this charming spot has welcomed west county neighbors for excellent French folded eggs with fontina and basil, or golden polenta crowned with exquisite poached eggs and crispy prosciutto. 9020 Graton Road, Graton, 707-823-0233, willowwoodgraton.com

Lamb Chops

Willi’s Wine Bar

This Santa Rosa institution is a not-so-secret clubhouse for many of the county’s movers and shakers, an office away from home. Lamb chops are just one of the many small-plates favorites here, along with curried crab tacos and roasted carrots. 1415 Town and Country Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-526-3096, starkrestaurants.com

Lamb chops at Willi's is a must-try dish
Moroccan-style barbecued lamb chops with mint chutney and preserved lemon couscous is a traditional dish at Willi’s Wine Bar in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Jok at Jam's Joy Bungalow is a must-try dish
Jok porridge at Jam’s Joy Bungalow. (Courtesy of Jam’s Joy Bungalow)
Jok Porridge

Jam’s Joy Bungalow

We’re special fans of this morning hangover helper: a tummy filling rice porridge with spicy ginger, herbs, fried shallots, a custardy 6-minute egg, and khao man gai sauce, a traditional Thai street-food favorite. You’ll never look at oatmeal the same way again. While the storefronts have closed, Jam’s Joy Bungalow offers catering for all types of events, as well as occasional pop-ups around the county. Reach out on Instagram for more details. 707-843-9001, jamsjoybungalow.com

Blue corn tacos

Quiote

Handmade blue corn tortillas topped with fresh rock cod, cochinita pibil with pickled onions, or al pastor and salsa verde, always make our “best tacos” list. Add a side of guacamole with serrano chiles and crispy raspadas or brothy Rancho Gordo beans to get the full experience. 121 Kentucky St., Petaluma, 707-774 -6130, quiotemx.com

Tacos from Quiote are a must-try dish
Tacos from Quiote in downtown Petaluma is a must-try dish. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Slices of mushroom and potato pizza with chimichurri at Psychic Pie in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Slices of mushroom and potato pizza with chimichurri at Psychic Pie in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Pizza

Psychic Pie

Rectangular, Roman-style pizza with a fermented sourdough crust is served by the inch (you tell them how much you want) at this casual slice house in Sebastopol. The picks switch up weekly, and there are always veggie and vegan types in addition to meatier options. New this winter? They’re trying out round pies every once in a while — what a concept! 980 Gravenstein Highway S., Sebastopol, 707-827-6032, psychicpie.com