Burger from Lunch Box Sonoma County. The pop-up restaurant is among a handful of local restaurants that have signed on for a space at the new Livery on Main food hall in Sebastopol. Click through the gallery for more. (Courtesy of Lunch Box Sonoma County)
Late fall is bringing with it a flurry of restaurant openings and soon-to-open eateries in Sonoma County. Many are located in Sebastopol, which is seeing a huge influx of new businesses, as well as in Petaluma. Click through the above gallery for some new places we’re dying to try (along with one or two we’ve had a sneak peek at).
Flying Goat coffee shop in Healdsburg reopened in October 2022. (Heather Irwin / Press Democrat)
First, the good news. Flying Goat Coffee reopened in Healdsburg at 300 Center St. last month with the kind of fanfare usually reserved for Super Bowl wins. Longtime fans were elated to get their organic Guatemalan and Ethiopian single-origin coffee fixes once again.
“I’m a coffee guy, and I always will be. I see coffee as a mission,” said Flying Goat owner Phil Anacker.
But Sonoma County bean buffs have long wondered what happened to the once-thriving Healdsburg and Santa Rosa Flying Goat shops that closed in 2019 and 2020.
The tragic story told by Anacker is one many restaurateurs, especially in Healdsburg, have experienced recently: a combination of untenable rent hikes, the COVID-19 pandemic and financial exhaustion. He said small, family-run businesses like his had been hit especially hard.
Founded in 1994, Healdsburg’s Flying Goat Coffee was a morning staple for the town’s caffeine-seeking locals for 25 years.
As Anacker and co-owner Maura Harrington watched sleepy Healdsburg grow into the tourist hot spot it is today, they sold pastries and coffee made with beans Anacker sourced through relationships with coffee farmers worldwide.
Things began to unravel in late 2019 when Harrington died from cancer, the rent doubled on the Flying Goat shop at 324 Center St. near the plaza in Healdsburg and the emerging pandemic and subsequent restrictions dried up business.
“Late 2019 was the beginning of a year of challenges. It was hugely sad. Maura was a spark in the community,” Anacker said.
By mid-2020, as the pandemic raged, ongoing problems forced Anacker to close the once-thriving Healdsburg shop. Their original roastery and coffee shop, a couple blocks north at 419 Center St., remained open for takeout. A small coffeehouse in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square also stayed open.
“We built out that space at 324 Center St. in 1994. But we had to leave our home,” said Anacker.
That wasn’t the end of Flying Goat’s troubles. By December 2020, the rent on their Santa Rosa location in Railroad Square was another financial drain. During the pandemic, as many restaurants and businesses closed, Anacker said, the Santa Rosa rent was too much for the bottom line.
“Margins are always a challenge, and the numbers didn’t work there,” he said.
Anacker said staff dwindled from 50 to around 25 at its lowest point, with just the roastery open. He tried to keep longtime workers employed at the roastery.
For two years, Anacker had looked for a new location on the Healdsburg square and finally found the 300 Center St. location (on the corner of Center and Matheson streets) and landlords willing to work with the company.
When the new coffeehouse opened, Anacker said, many came to check it out.
“We just let people come in as they saw the doors open, but when word gets out in Healdsburg, it spreads like wildfire. The community totally came out, and it was like a community group hug,” he said.
As for the future of Flying Goat? Anacker sees hope.
“We still get emails weekly from customers in Santa Rosa who want us to have another store, and we are in discussions with some property owners there. We are intent on getting a store in Santa Rosa and possibly Windsor as well,” he said.
Wine Country got a much-welcomed wet start to November. But there are still sunny and bright fall days ahead before winter arrives. So take this time to enjoy the warm hues of yellow, orange and red. One of the best ways to enjoy Mother Nature’s autumnal art is to hit the trails and take in vineyard views. Click through the gallery above to see some of our favorite scenic treks. Did we miss one of your favorite spots? Let us know in the comments.
An event area at Sally Tomatoes Catering and Events. (Courtesy Sally Tomatoes)
Heirloom Cucina Italiana at the Sally Tomatoes space in the sprawling SOMO Village business center ended its restaurant service on Oct. 28.
Sally Tomatoes will transform into a full-service event center and catering company. Special community nights will be offered for the public on Wednesdays with a fireside buffet of homemade soups and pizza, salads and pasta for kids and adults. There also will be drinks and games, including corn hole and Wednesday paint nights.
Watch the Sally Tomatoes website (sallytomatoes.com) for more details on upcoming music shows and events at the space, located at 1100 Valley House Drive, in Rohnert Park. Call 707-665-9472.
The River Arch, a metal sculpture by renowned local artist David Best stands at Lynch Creek Trail alongside the Petaluma River. (Crissy Pascual/Petaluma Argus-Courier)
In Sonoma County, public art is easily accessible, in every town. Petaluma, especially, has loads of public art, and to help you explore it, we’re offering a guide of the highlights.
There are more than 30 outdoor public art pieces scattered around the city, including murals, sculptures, arches and a community-built fountain.
‘River Arch’
In August, Petaluma-based artist David Best unveiled his new public art piece, “River Arch,” an intricate, rust-colored steel archway that greets passersby on Lynch Creek Trail off Lakeville Street. The 25-foot metal arch — with decorative curves, natural motifs and a chandelier-like detail — enhances the industrial look of the area while serving as a gateway between downtown Petaluma and the surrounding natural landscape.
Best is known for the large, elaborate temples and sculptures he creates for the Burning Man festival. The Petaluma Public Art Committee commissioned Best in 2017 to create the River Arch to improve the site for residents and visitors, welcoming them to Petaluma’s downtown. Lynch Creek Trail is located at 88 Lakeville St. in Petaluma.
‘Wrist Wrestling Champions’
Wrist wrestling transformed from a playful test of machismo to a nationally recognized sport when local legend and Argus-Courier columnist Bill Soberanes arranged a match at “Diamond Mike” Gilardi’s bar in 1955. The thrilling contest, which ended in a draw, generated so much attention that a committee was formed to organize a tournament. The tournament grew over the years, and, in 1962, the first World Wristwrestling Championship was held in Petaluma’s Hermann Sons Hall.
By 1988, the city of Petaluma erected a statue downtown — made by prominent Cuban artist Rosa Estebañez — in Soberanes’ honor, depicting him and another man locked in a strenuous battle of the forearms. The bronze sculpture includes a plaque commemorating Soberanes as “the World’s Number One People Meeter” for his knack for making fast friends. Find the statue near the corner of East Washington Street and Petaluma Boulevard North, next to Lemongrass Thai Noodle and across the street from the Petaluma Heritage Mural
On Feb. 12, 1952, Petaluma’s first wrist wrestling championship was held at Gilardi’s bar. The competition grew to international proportions attracting celebrities and politicians from near and wide. In this photo then-Gov. Ronald Reagan wrestles Bill Soberanes at a later competition. (Petaluma Museum)Arnold Schwarzenegger made a special guest appearance at the 1978 World Wrist Wrestling Championship tournament. (Petaluma Museum)
‘Reared In Steel’
Get a taste of Burning Man at the corner of Copeland and East Washington streets, where Petaluma artist Kevin Clark set up his private art studio Reared In Steel. The massive metal sculptures out front are a fixture in downtown Petaluma, when they’re not at the annual Burning Man festival or rented out to various other events.
The steampunk-like artworks that can be spotted on Copeland Street include a 70-foot “Flower Tower,” a metal-winged guardian lion (“Guardino Leone”), a fully motorized “Rhino Redemption” art car and an intimidating “Medusa Madness” sculpture. Then there’s the giant squawking metal raven perched atop the studio.
While the working art studio is private, visitors are welcome to view it from the street and snap photos of the huge, unusual art sculptures in the studio yard, at 100 Copeland St., in Petaluma.
‘Outlet, Plug & Cord’
In Petaluma’s Theatre District, it’s hard to miss the giant wall outlet and plug protruding from the PG&E Substation on the corner of First and D streets. The comically large sculpture made of steel, wood and fiberglass seems to fit right in with its surroundings while adding levity to the industrial look of the area.
The cord of the plug appears to be coming out of the ground, suggesting it’s drawing power from the nearby electrical towers to supply energy to the PG&E building. The utility company commissioned artist Joel Jones, of Basal Ganglia Studio, and fabricator Shawn Thorsson to create the art piece, which they unveiled in 2015.
Daya Ceglia checking out the Plug during the unveiling reception of a sculpture by fabricator Shawn Thorsson and artist Joel Jones at the First and D Street PG&E substation in Petaluma on Friday, July 10, 2015. (Jim Johnson/For the Argus-Courier)
‘Faces of Petaluma Fountain’
In the middle of Petaluma’s Theatre District is a water fountain covered in more than 800 unique faces made of clay and set in colorful mosaic tile. Ceramic artist and community organizer Donna Billick designed and led the public art project, which welcomed Petalumans of all ages to sculpt self-portraits from clay.
Billick took the finished clay faces back to her art studio in Davis to fire and prepare them for installation, and Heath Ceramics in Sausalito provided the mosaic tile panels. The project was completed in 2007 and presents an artistic link with the Petaluma community’s past and future. See the colorful, whimsical fountain in Theatre Square, surrounded by local businesses such as Trattoria Roma, Sol Food and La Dolce Vita Wine Lounge. It’s located at Theatre Square, 140 Second St., in Petaluma.
‘Cherry Soda’
Patrons of Petaluma’s Boulevard Cinemas can’t miss this whimsical abstract statue of a yellow-and-blue cup spilling over with pink cherry soda. Sculptor Robert Ellison created the painted-steel statue in 2003, originally installed at Lucchesi Park.
The Petaluma Public Art Committee purchased “Cherry Soda” from the Voigt Family Sculpture Foundation after Ellison’s death in 2012, and the two groups worked with the city of Petaluma to facilitate the installation at the cinema. “Cherry Soda” resides at the corner of Second and C streets in front of the theater, and the statue remains a popular hangout spot for young people waiting to see a movie. Boulevard 14 Cinema is located at 200 C St. in Petaluma.
Patrons of Petaluma’s Boulevard Cinemas can’t miss this whimsical abstract statue, “Cherry Soda,” by sculptor Robert Ellison. (The Press Democrat, file)
‘A Whale of a Good Time’
A life-size whale tail made from scrap metal stands 15 feet tall in the Deer Creek Village shopping center, where it dives into the pavement between Sourdough & Co. and Habit Burger Grill. Sacramento artist Terrence Martin created the sculpture in 2014 after gaining inspiration from a whale-watching trip. The statue seats nine people inside and is surrounded by a ring of fluorescent blue lighting that glows at night.
The aquatic sculpture was the first piece in a series of art installations at the shopping center, including a 20-foot steel and glass abstract tree sculpture (also made by Martin) next to Mary’s Pizza Shack and decorative benches created by Martin and local artist David Duskin
Hands & Balls, Petaluma
Meant to represent balance — of the rational and spiritual, terrestrial and celestial — a pair of giant concrete hands rest on red marbled balls in front of Lagunitas Brewing Co., coaxing in curious onlookers. The position of the hands evokes Buddhist iconography of symbolic hand gestures (known as mudras). The right hand appears to be in the Abhaya position, with the palm facing forward, representing fearlessness and protection. The left hand is in the Dhyana position (the meditation mudra), with the hand resting and palm facing up, symbolizing compassion for all living beings.
The husband-and-wife team Peter Crompton and Robyn Spencer-Crompton built the sculpture, with Peter focusing on the form of the concrete hands and Robyn on the mosaic surface design. The “Hands & Balls” sculpture has been a part of the Sculpture Trail in Cloverdale and Geyserville and was installed in front of Lagunitas in Petaluma in 2012. Lagunitas Brewing Co. is located at 1280 N. McDowell Blvd. in Petaluma.
‘Fred J. Wiseman Monument’
In 1911, local pilot Fred J. Wiseman embarked on a short flight, in a biplane he designed and built, to deliver mail and newspapers from Petaluma to Santa Rosa. It was the world’s earliest “air mail” flight. A park in Petaluma was named after the pilot (Wiseman Park), and local Cuban artist Rosa Estebañez created a monument in his honor in August 1968.
The monument, a bas-relief of Wiseman’s bust and plane mounted on a wall of stone and concrete, was originally located in Kenilworth Park, where Wiseman began his first air mail flight. Now it resides in Wiseman Park on the east side of Petaluma, near the Petaluma Municipal Airport.
‘Home Stretch’
Standing at the corner of Lakeville Highway and Frates Road, an 18-foot totem sculpture seems to defy physics. Made by Donna Billick in 2007 and covered in vibrant mosaic tiles, it has an inverted cone perched on what appears to be a miniature house, which balances atop five colorful spheres descending in size.
Like Billick’s Faces of Petaluma Fountain, the mosaic tiles on “Home Stretch” are from Heath Ceramics in Sausalito. The totem may be in an odd place — on the corner of Lakeville Highway and Frates Road, across from Petaluma Poultry Processors — but it’s encircled by four benches, where people can relax and admire its details
Honorable Mentions
Petaluma Friends: A sculpture made of Corten steel depicting a dog with a cat standing on its back, and a small bird perched on the end of the cat’s tail. The dog has a bone-shaped hole across its body, revealing the green tin of the Adobe Animal Hospital building behind it. The animal sculpture was created by Dale Rogers Studio in 2015. Adobe Animal Hospital, 408 Madison St., Petaluma
Heron & Reeds Wall Relief Sculpture: A large wall relief sculpture depicting a heron flying low among reeds, made of copper and established in 2009. Raley’s Grocery Store, 157 N McDowell Blvd., Petaluma
Lucchesi Park Tower Sculpture: An abstract, green metal tower sitting in front of the Petaluma Community Center. 320 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma
Millennium Arch: A black-painted, steel archway in McNear Park commemorating the local Rotary Club’s commitment to the city. Made by sculptor Nicolas van Krijdt and established in 2003. McNear Park, 1008 G St., Petaluma
Dubull Eagull: Unsurprisingly, Petaluma’s art and visitor centers have a number of sculptures outside, including the “Dubull Eagull” (also known as the Double Eagle). The rust-colored steel sculpture is an abstract, minimalist depiction of two eagles flying between two tall columns. It was made by Peter Forakis in 2001. Petaluma Arts Center, 230 Lakeville St., Petaluma
The Charlie Hustle fried chicken sandwich from Jam’s Joy Bungalow in Cotati and Sebastopol. (Courtesy of Jamilah Nixon-Mathis)
Cotati often gets short shrift when it comes to dining. With its blurred borders between Rohnert Park directly to the north and Penngrove to the southeast, outsiders may only notice a blink-and-its-gone exit along Highway 101.
But if you take a closer look, there’s plenty of great food to be found — not just at the main business district but at busy shopping centers and quiet office districts around town. That’s all the better for locals and intrepid wanderers, because this quaint community has something for just about everyone, from notable to unnoticed, middling to mind-blowing.
Ready to get a taste of Cotati? Click through the above gallery for our top picks and don’t miss more great choices listed below.
More Great Choices
Cafe Salsa: Find all the Mexican and American staples here, from tacos and burritos to burgers and breakfast favorites. There’s something for everyone. 8230 Old Redwood Highway, Cotati, 707-795-7068, cafesalsacotati.com.
Cape Cod Fish and Chips: Douse their first-rate fried cod and fries with malt vinegar for best results. 7530 Commerce Blvd., Suite C, Cotati, 707-792-0982.
China Chef: Here is where you go when you’re hungry for straightforward Chinese-American food. Phone orders only, 707-664-1088. 7991 Old Redwood Highway, Suite 2B.
Jaded Toad: Barbecue and smoked meats are their best-known dishes, but burgers, teriyaki and sweet potato fries topped with pork belly are good bets, too. (Plus, Loco Moco and Chicken Katsu with macaroni salad if you’re craving Hawaiian fare). 500 E. Cotati Ave., Cotati, jadedtoad.com.
Mai Vietnamese: Solid Vietnamese pho, barbecue rice plates and noodle bowls. 8492 Gravenstein Highway, Suite J, Cotati, 707-665-9628, maivietnamesecotati.com.
Marvin’s of Cotati: This old-school diner has a huge menu for breakfast and lunch, from omelets to burgers to patty melts. 7991 Old Redwood Highway, 707-664-1720, marvinsofcotati.com.
Mi Ranchito: With an epic menu of Mexican classics, Mi Ranchito is great for families and celebrations. 7600 Commerce Blvd., Cotati, 707-795-7600, miranchitocotati.com.
Saigon Café: Find Vietnamese and Japanese favorites on this short but sweet menu. 548 E. Cotati Ave., Cotati, 707-664-5925 (left of Oliver’s Market).
Twins Restaurant: If you’re in Cotati early in the day, this place has you covered, with breakfast classics and comfort food lunches. 572 E. Cotati Ave., 707-242-3075, bit.ly/3lH44Vd.
Zaina’s Bellini Cafe: Bottomless mimosas and brunchy fare, plus Middle Eastern-style shawarma, gyros and falafel. 7981 Old Redwood Highway, Cotati, 707-664-5956, bit.ly/315Z1nN.
A modern home with a breezy open-concept layout is for sale in the hills above Sonoma. Located just 10 minutes from the downtown plaza, the 4-bedroom, 4-bathroom property was built in 2019 by Sonoma-based Salt Shed Design. It is listed for $3,695,000.
White walls and large windows let plenty of light into the home and allow residents to take in the outdoor scenery from each room. The home has two great rooms: one comprising the kitchen, living room and dining area; another a lounging area that continues outdoors via a wall of sliding floor-to-ceiling windows. A tranquil palette that includes blue textiles creates a cool color scheme that complements the views of outside greenery.
The home’s finishes also come in subtle colors, including white oak floors, wood barn accents and white tiles. Glass and nickel fixtures add a lightweight finish and sparkle to the space. Lounging sectionals encourage easy living, and modern art pieces add interest and a bit of color contrast.
A glass door encloses a wine storage room with minimal fixtures, which yields focus to the bottles that appear to almost float in space. Outdoors, a simply designed yard with low-water plants in fire-resistant islands and a pool surrounded by three lawn chairs complete the look.
Click through the above gallery for a peek inside the home.
For more information about the property at 17333 Gehricke Road, contact listing agents Avram Goldman, 707 934 2323, 925-323-8881, orHeather Hanlon, 707-529-2669 with Compass Real Estate, 135 West Napa St., Suite 200, Sonoma.
Two matte black steel structures with low-sloop roofs and abundant windows for taking in the surrounding vineyard views make up a 1,600-square-foot, one-bedroom, one-bathroom Healdsburg residence with a guest studio currently listed for $3,950,000.
The industrial home on 150 Bailhache Ave. has been decorated with fine art pieces selected by San Francisco-based Dutch designer Martin Kobus. A modern floor-to-ceiling white marble relief with geometric shapes, for example, makes a strong statement in the living room, while a red pen shell bar on an adjacent wall contrasts with the black-and-white color scheme of the room.
The kitchen island is made from black marble with an unusual snakeskin pattern; the island itself is formed in an equally unusual wave shape. Laminate black cabinets add to the dramatic look, while lighted shelving brightens the room.
The main bedroom boasts a textured wall with a relief of thick leaves formed from plaster. Layers of textured white materials, like floor-to-ceiling alpaca drapes, keep this room light and airy.
The powder room has an artistic resin surface in an agate pattern by Los Angeles designer Alex Turco. The main bathroom features honed Pietra d’Avola tiles with geometric, textural grooves.
Hestan appliances in the kitchen, a retractable TV that emerges from the sofa, a programmable steam shower and more technological features add another modern touch to the artistic industrial home.
Outdoors, motorized pergolas cover the home’s patios and allow for lounging independent of weather. An Endless Pool, which provides resistance for lap swimming in place, is both a spot to exercise and a bright blue water feature in the yard.
An outdoor kitchen and two-sided fireplace adds to the entertainment possibilities, while a Jeff Koons balloon dog sculpture is a whimsical addition to the otherwise classic Wine Country landscape that surrounds the home.
For more information about this home at 150 Bailhache Ave., contact Sheri Morgensen 415-269-5634, 707-431-0777 or Jessica Wynne, 415-509-2611, 415-296-2223,with Sotheby’s International Realty, Healdsburgshowcase.com
Healdsburg’s Jordan Vineyard and Winery has made this year’s World’s 50 Best Vineyards list, as announced Wednesday at an event in Mendoza, Argentina.
Coming in at No. 46, Jordan is the only Sonoma County winery to make the list this year. Napa Valley’s Robert Mondavi Winery, which took the No. 7 spot, was named the best vineyard in North America and Opus One in Oakville came in at No. 24. Antinori nel Chianti Classico in Italy’s Tuscany region topped the list for the first time.
The World’s 50 Best Vineyards ranking is organized by UK-based William Reed Media, which also releases the prestigious World’s 50 Best Restaurants and World’s 50 Best Bars lists.
“The World’s Best Vineyards highlights wine tourism destinations around the globe and now that travel is back on the cards, this year’s list is more important than ever for raising profiles with tourists and those looking for authentic and unique trips,” commented Andrew Reed, Managing Director Wine and Exhibitions at William Reed, from the event in Mendoza.
At Jordan Vineyard and Winery in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Jordan Vineyard & Winery)Member’s of Jordan’s loyalty program can book overnights stays in the winery chateau. (Courtesy of Jordan Vineyard & Winery)
The World’s 50 Best Vineyards described the ethos of Jordan Vineyard and Winery as “the spirit of France in Sonoma” on its website and highlighted the winery’s commitment to protecting flora and fauna. Founders Tom and Sally Jordan designed the Bordeaux-inspired winery chateau 50 years ago. Today, the winery is focused on land preservation and sustainability, while providing guests unique culinary experiences, Russian River chardonnay and Alexander Valley cabernet sauvignon.
“We are honored to be included in this list of extraordinary wineries from across the globe. This year we celebrate our 50th anniversary so to be named alongside these world-renowned, legendary institutions is truly an incredible achievement,” said Kendall Busby, Director of Marketing and Communications at Jordan Vineyard and Winery.
Guests to Jordan Vineyard & Winery can choose from a variety of experiences, including a tour of the 1,200-acre estate aboard a Mercedes Sprinter. Members of the winery’s loyalty program, Jordan Estate Rewards, can stay overnight at the French-style chateau, which recently underwent a $1 million remodel.
The 2022 World’s 50 Best Vineyards list included wineries from 20 countries on six continents. Find the full list here. Click through the above gallery to see photos of Jordan Vineyard and Winery.
Jordan Vineyard & Winery, 1474 Alexander Valley Road Healdsburg, 707-431-5250, jordanwinery.com.
Mushroom Cubano with a pinot noir from Bloom Carneros, formerly Kivelstadt Cellars and Winegarten, in Sonoma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Wine tasting without food is an exercise in futility.
Sure that boozy, jammy zinfandel tastes great swirling around in a glass, but it’s going to taste like a wet wool blanket with your sheet-pan chicken. It’s not going to even be that great with pizza.
Kivelstadt Cellars & Winegarten is the anti-tasting-room experience, offering not just food-friendly wines, but mix-and-match tasting experiences that pair perfectly with the chef-driven menu at the Sonoma winery’s casual restaurant and wine garden.
Think of it more like a brewery, where you can sit with kids, friends and dogs (there’s a menu just for Fido) and taste the latest releases with comforting food like an earthy mushroom Cubano, fish taco or light ahi tuna poke salad. No high-pressure sales, just high-impact wines, from experimental red wines made with carbonic fermentation (more on that later) and a very drinkable white Rhone blend to a juicy Charbono that uses one of the region’s most underappreciated (and nearly extinct) grapes.
Sushi Grade Ahi Tuna with avocado, kewpie and served with chips from served with Twice Removed Rosé from the taps at Kivelstadt Cellars and Winegarten in Sonoma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Hidden in plain sight just south of the town of Sonoma, the sprawling wine garden is an all-season destination with of-the-moment seasonal dishes that speak to the region’s bounty without feeling precious.
Chef Jennifer McMurry, formerly of Dillon Beach Coastal Kitchen and Viola Restaurant, has taken over the kitchen, pumping up the menu with her extraordinary talents both in savory and sweet dishes.
She took over the restaurant in May following a three-month closure for renovations and the departure of Chef Oscar Bendeck who was opening chef at the tasting room and restaurant. Bendeck now runs a catering business called Wine Country Collective.
The sprawling wine garden has umbrella-shaded outdoor seats as well as a covered patio, making it a perfect place for brunch or an afternoon nibble. “Hidden gem” is definitely apropos for this secret Sonoma County experience where kids can roam, dogs have their own menu.
You may find fish tacos if there’s good local halibut, fried chicken bites with whipped ricotta or a S’more in a Jar ($12) with freshly baked graham crackers, chocolate cream and toasted meringue. Each item has a suggested wine pairing, if you’re so inclined. A by-the-glass menu ranges from $9 to $14 (local beer and nonalcoholic drinks are also available).
It’s worth exploring these playful wines, like the Family Secret sauvignon blanc, red Rhone blend and carbonic wines offered on tap. Owner Jordan Kivelstadt works with winemaker Sam Baron to create wines that are serious enough to impress pinkies-up wine bullies but playful enough for a pool party.
Mushroom Cubano with a pinot noir from Kivelstadt Cellars and Winegarten in Sonoma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Carbonic wines, from the experimental division of Kivelstadt Wineries, are super-light, low-tannin, low-alcohol wines made using carbonic fermentation, a winemaking process in which whole clusters of grapes are blanketed with carbon dioxide and held at cool temperatures before being pressed and finished in barrels. All you really need to understand is that these bright, fruity wines are the equivalent of a light saison versus a stout.
So go for brunch, lunch or just an afternoon break from all that serious wine tasting to this place where no one cares if you drink orange wine with a burger.
“We’re all about meeting you where you are in your wine journey,” according to the tasting menu. We couldn’t agree more.
Best Bets
McMurry’s menu is hyperseasonal, so ingredients like corn and tomatoes may fall off the list soon. Don’t worry, there’s always something new to try.
Sushi Grade Ahi Tuna, $24: Each dish at Kivelstadt is a small work of art, but this mound of ruby tuna atop fresh avocado puree is especially so. Dots of kewpie mayo add a creamy element to the deep umami of shoyu sesame vinaigrette.
Elote, $14: Smoked corn is a revelation, but this helping is punctuated by tart lime vinaigrette and mildly spicy jalapeño aioli. It’s one of the best versions of this street food we’ve ever had.
Watermelon and Tomato Salad, $16: Fresh bites of juicy watermelon wouldn’t seem to match with a honey-viognier vinaigrette, but the sweet-sour pairing is a revelation.
Chef Jennifer McMurry plates Sushi Grade Ahi Tuna over avocado from Kivelstadt Cellars and Winegarten in Sonoma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Mushroom Cubano, $18: This is the Cubano we’ve searched for, with a twist. Smoked cremini mushrooms take the place of meat and are accented by spicy pickles, cabbage, Jack cheese and mustard aioli. Sandwiched between two thick slices of airy, toasted focaccia, it’s a hearty, messy handful, but perfectly balanced — not too much bread, not too much filling. Just right.
Caramel, Corn and Blackberry, $15: Creamy corn panna cotta is the base for this refreshing dessert, topped by fresh figs, blackberry curd and tiny nibbles of almond nougat and caramel corn.
Tasting flights (we love the Off the Beaten Path Flight) $35: These flights consist of four pours. Side-by-side tastings of varietals are $20 and a vertical tasting of the Father’s Watch Rhone Blend is $30. For small bites, an abbreviated share-and-pair menu is available for the tasting. You also can pair tastings with items from the full menu.
Kivelstadt Cellars & Winegarten is located at 22900 Broadway in Sonoma and is open from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday and Monday, and 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Thursday to Saturday. Call 707-938-7001, or visit kivelstadtcellars.com.