New Healdsburg Restaurant Serves Up Cowboy-Chic Steaks

The 25 oz. Ribeye Steak with bernaise sauce, with a side of Creamed Spinach and Parker House Rolls from Goodnight’s Prime Steak + Spirits Friday, August 11, 2023 on the square in Healdsburg. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Goodnight’s Prime Steak + Spirits, backed by wine mogul and entrepreneur Bill Foley, isn’t shying away from being exactly what it is — a tufted-leather-banquette, closers-only, beef-centric cowboy fantasy for the well-heeled. You can practically smell the Wine Country wheeling and dealing over crystal-cut glasses of Japanese whiskey and filet mignon.

The two-story restaurant, located at the former Ferrari-Carano Seasons of the Vineyard tasting room, was stripped down to its studs over the last year and rebuilt in the name of Charles Goodnight, a rough-and-tumble Texas Ranger, cattle herder and inventor of the chuck wagon.

“Healdsburg needed a steakhouse, and it was going to be high-end,” said Executive Chef David Lawrence, a celebrity chef and veteran of several high-profile restaurants in San Francisco who directs the team and menu at Goodnight’s. The Jamaican-born chef is no stranger to steakhouses; by age 16, he was cooking steaks at his father’s restaurants.

Chef David Lawrence from Goodnight’s Prime Steak + Spirits Friday, August 11, 2023 on the square in Healdsburg. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Chef David Lawrence from Goodnight’s Prime Steak + Spirits Friday, August 11, 2023 on the square in Healdsburg. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Goodnight’s Prime Steak + Spirits Friday, August 11, 2023 on the square in Healdsburg. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Goodnight’s Prime Steak + Spirits Friday, August 11, 2023 on the square in Healdsburg. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Prices are high at Goodnight’s, even for Healdsburg, though when asked about the prices, Lawrence said he feels they’re in line with those at other restaurants in the area. I’m not entirely convinced, but Lawrence explained his careful preparations and attention to detail in such a charming, forthright way that I couldn’t help but hear him out. That care and precision in the kitchen are what Lawrence proudly hangs his toque on.

“No matter what I do, it has to have a David Lawrence twist. … I want to bring here what I’ve learned over the last 40 years, and that’s still evolving,” said Lawrence, who cuts an imposing figure with his black chef’s coat and close-cropped salt-and-pepper hair and beard.

The menu includes a 42-ounce dry-aged bone-in tomahawk steak for sharing ($200) and plenty of seafood, including oysters ($22), a prawn cocktail ($28), seafood platter ($140), caviar ($120), wild pan-roasted sea bass ($42) and lobster thermidor ($65), a classic French dish that’s come into and gone out of fashion for nearly 200 years.

“Thermidor, to me, is something that was lost. Why not bring it back?” Lawrence said. The poached lobster is picked from the shell, bathed in butter and cheese and stuffed back into the split tail with a glaze of sabayon (a custard-like sauce).

The 25 oz. Ribeye Steak with bernaise sauce, with a side of Creamed Spinach and Parker House Rolls from Goodnight’s Prime Steak + Spirits Friday, August 11, 2023 on the square in Healdsburg. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
The 25 oz. Ribeye Steak with bernaise sauce, with a side of Creamed Spinach and Parker House Rolls from Goodnight’s Prime Steak + Spirits Friday, August 11, 2023 on the square in Healdsburg. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

There’s no question, however, that the steaks are the big draw here because if you’re going to eat a steak, by all means, do it right.

The 25-ounce rib-eye ($65) is sumptuous, expertly cooked and seasoned — and, I think, a good value for a lot of meat. More delicate cuts, like Japanese Wagyu ($60), New York strip ($72), Bavette ($28) and boneless rib-eye ($83), are also available.

Well-crafted vegetarian dishes like the exceptional Muhammara roasted cauliflower, seasoned heavily with za’atar seasoning, are a nice departure from beef.

The upscale cowboy-steakhouse feel goes beyond the menu and the prices, however. The absolute best view of the restaurant, said Lawrence, is from the glass elevator that connects the downstairs and balcony seating. From there, you can see the modern chandeliers that evoke a starry night on the plains. Glowing moons of incandescence move the eye to the open kitchen. You might even notice the light fixtures outfitted with old Smith & Wesson rifles (I’m not sure how to feel about that).

There’s a hidden bar nestled into the back of the balcony that’s one of the best (and very clandestine) seats in the house. The whole setup inspires awe, partly due to how much money went into the luxe decor, including the menus with leather covers that smell like an expensive purse.

“The beauty of this project is the blessing of this project, and I’m honored to be part of this,” Lawrence said.

Everywhere, stars in the style of an Old West sheriff’s badge greet visitors, making it clear there’s a new steakhouse in town with an itchy trigger finger to impress.

"Roux Bro’s” Lemon Tart with meyer lemon sorbet from Goodnight’s Prime Steak + Spirits Friday, August 11, 2023 on the square in Healdsburg. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
“Roux Bro’s” Lemon Tart with meyer lemon sorbet from Goodnight’s Prime Steak + Spirits Friday, August 11, 2023 on the square in Healdsburg. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

More Best Bets: Meat and seafood are the stars of the show, but there is plenty more to recommend.

Yellowtail Hamachi ($26) is like the best sushi you’ve ever had atop a puddle of carrot ginger puree. Often dishes like this skimp on the quality of the fish by covering it with a heavy sauce. Here, the fish truly shines.

Crispy Maitake Mushrooms ($21) is the only fried dish on the menu. The tempura-coated mushrooms come with a delicious avocado chimichurri dip that’s a perfect pairing.

Parker House Rolls ($10) are like marshmallows in bread form. These are best-in-class rolls topped with herbes de Provence. Slather with cultured butter.

Chalk Hill Farm Estate Salad ($16), a simple green salad with lavender vinaigrette and tarragon, makes the most of produce largely sourced from Foley’s Chalk Hill Farm Estate.

Whole Roasted Cauliflower Muhammara ($26) isn’t just for vegetarians. This stunner, with earthy and savory za’atar spices, easily stands out. A slight sweetness of golden raisins would have been a perfect addition.

Side dishes ($18) are the heart and soul of steakhouses. Familiar (and required) menu items include wild mushrooms, smashed potatoes fried in duck fat, grilled rapini and macaroni and cheese. For me, it’s all about the creamed spinach with a poached farm egg and Yukon Gold potato puree.

Cocktails lean heavily on whiskey and Bourbon, but an extensive menu of American, Japanese and other international liquor selections are aimed at connoisseurs. If you’re jonesing for a martini, they’ve got you covered. The Molly’s Vigilante ($16) with bourbon, apple puree, lemon, simple syrup and bitters is our choice for a pre-dinner sipper.

The wine list is, not surprisingly, heavy with Foley portfolio wines. Mixologist Devon Espinosa heads the lighthearted beverage program. Chef Lawrence’s favorite wine is the Brown Estate Chaos Theory red blend from Napa Valley.

113 Plaza St., Healdsburg; 707-543-1000, goodnightsrestaurant.com

Santa Rosa Bakery Launching Happy-Hour Concept

Criminal Baking Co. in Santa Rosa is starting a happy-hour concept called Visitation Hours from 3 to 6 p.m. Thursday through Saturday at their 808 Donahue St. location.

The idea is for customers to grab wine, beer or specialty cocktails made with sparkling wine (or fizzy water), housemade syrups, fruit and herbs. The bakery’s evening menu includes charcuterie boards (both meat and vegetarian), savory tartines, pies, quiche, frittata, cakes and other desserts. Families are welcome to join the low-key event which will have an updated kids’ menu.

Regular bakery hours remain 7:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily. 707-888-3546, criminalbaking.com

Tlahco Mexican Grill Opening in Former Jalisco’s Space in Santa Rosa

When longtime SRJC neighborhood restaurant Jalisco’s recently went dark, it was followed by an outpouring of concern over what would become of the spot.

The answer is Tlahco Mexican Grill, co-owned by Gustavo Martinez of Paradise Sushi restaurants in Petaluma, Rohnert Park and Santa Rosa.

Located at 1800 Mendocino Ave., the new restaurant will feature traditional Mexican fare including tacos, which originated in Mesoamerica.

“The word taco comes from the Nahuatl word ‘tlahco’ (pronounced ‘tla-ko’), which means ‘half or in the middle,’ referring to the way it is formed,” said a news release announcing the forthcoming opening, anticipated this month. Martinez debuted the restaurant concept at this year’s North Coast Food and Wine Festival where he served al pastor and carne asada tacos.

Martinez worked his way up the restaurant ladder at a popular sushi restaurant near Lake Tahoe. After selling his truck and land in Mexico, the entrepreneur partnered with his brothers to open three Sonoma County sushi venues, plus Paradise Sushi & Hibachi restaurant in Bennett Valley.

New British Pub The Goose & Fern Opens in Santa Rosa

Fish and chips at The Goose & Fern in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Who knew Scotch eggs would be the crowd favorite at Railroad Square’s new Goose & Fern pub in Santa Rosa? Apparently, no one, because Clyde Hartwell, co-owner of the newly opened British pub, can barely keep up with the popularity of the bar staple — an egg nested in a ball of sausage with a fried breadcrumb coating. It’s a belly-filler and just one of the gastropub dishes on the menu at the former Toad in the Hole bar.

Hartwell, who speaks with a brogue as thick as his salt-and-pepper beard, runs the come-as-you-are establishment with his wife, Brittany, a trained pastry chef. Hearty pints of ale, lager and stout (including Guinness, natch) are plentiful, but you’ll also find hard cider, wine and sodas.

But it’s the food that has us hooked. Fish and chips are the obvious go-to, and this version doesn’t disappoint. Crisp and perfectly fried in a beer-batter coating, it’s a whopper of a serving — half a rock cod — and includes a mess of hand-cut chips (i.e., fries) and zesty tartar sauce ($22). Sausage rolls ($10) are savory puff pastry logs filled with ground pork and perfect when dipped in spicy mustard. The show’s stars, however, are the savory pies ($18), and the headliner is the Guinness-braised beef served in a piping-hot ramekin and topped with mashed potatoes. Any leftovers are a breakfast treat.

Don’t miss dessert, which changes frequently but usually includes something like Eton mess (strawberries, meringue and whipped cream) or bread-and-butter pudding with custard. Open Wed. from  5 to 10 p.m., Thu 1130 a.m. to 10 p.m., Fri/Sat from 11:30 a.m. to midnight and Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Closed Mon/TueDinner served until 9 p.m. 116 Fifth St., Santa Rosa, 707-843-4235.

More dining news

Top-notch zinfandel producers will pair up with some of Wine Country’s best chefs at the annual Project Zin event on Saturday at Bricoleur Vineyards in Windsor. The event, benefiting Down Syndrome Connection of the Bay Area, is hosted by chef Charlie Palmer (Dry Creek Kitchen, Charlie Palmer Steakhouse) and winemaker Clay Mauritson. It will feature bites from local restaurants including Catelli’s, Diavola, John Ash & Co., Little Saint, Maison Porcella, SingleThread, The Madrona and Valette. Details and tickets, starting at $200, are online at projectzin.org.

Let Your Hair Down Like a Swede at Petaluma Crayfish Party

In Sweden, summer’s end heralds the return of crayfish season and with it a host of “kräftskivor” (crayfish parties). For a few weeks in August, usually reserved Swedes kick off their shoes for one last summer festivity, donning party hats and adjusting bibs as they consume buckets of dill-brined crustaceans between rounds of schnapps and drinking songs.

On Aug. 19, Swedish chef Roberth Sundell will host a traditional kräftskiva at his Petaluma restaurant, Stockhome. The family-style menu will include plenty of dilled Swedish crayfish, along with side dishes like Crawfish Soup with Saffron Aioli, Cheese and Caramelized Onion Pie, Swedish Deviled Eggs and, for dessert, Lingonberry Cheesecake.

I won’t be able to attend the kräftskiva in Petaluma this year. But, as a native Swede, I am more than happy to offer you a crash course into the intricacies of a Swedish crayfish party.

First, a brief history lesson.

A centuries-old tradition

The Swedish kräftskiva is a centuries-old tradition celebrated in literature and songs that derives from a time when freshwater crayfish were exclusively consumed by the ruling elite.

(The first time crayfish are mentioned in relation to Swedish gastronomy is in a communication from King Erik XIV to the bailiff of Nyköping Castle dated 1562. In the letter, the king commands the harvesting of large amounts of crayfish for his sister Anna’s wedding.)

With the rise of the Swedish middle class at the end of the 19th century, crayfish, served whole and cold after being boiled in salted water and seasoned with dill, began to be enjoyed by a larger population.

This sudden increase in crayfish consumption had a depletive effect on the domestic crustacean population. As a result, harvesting was forbidden from November until August 7.

And so the tradition of crayfish parties in August was begun. In 1994, crayfish restrictions were rescinded, but Swedes continue to honor the tradition of premiering the crayfish season in early August.

A traditional crayfish party takes place only in August. All you need is some friends, a heap of freshly boiled crayfish, paper hats and decorations, some beer and schnapps and a selection of silly drinking songs. (Carolina Romare/imagebank.sweden.se)
A traditional crayfish party takes place only in August. All you need is some friends, a heap of freshly boiled crayfish, paper hats and decorations, some beer and schnapps and a selection of silly drinking songs. (Carolina Romare/imagebank.sweden.se)
Swedish crayfish are cooked in brine, with plenty of dill. (Carolina Romare/imagebank.sweden.se)
Swedish crayfish are cooked in brine, with plenty of dill. (Carolina Romare/imagebank.sweden.se)

Crayfish US-style

For decades, Swedes have imported crayfish from the United States to fill the gap left by the depletion of native Swedish crustaceans when domestic catches fell victim to a fatal fungus. The Swedish “crayfish pest” first appeared at the turn of the 20th century, but it was not until the 1970s that a serious shortage of the domestic strains became apparent.

Dropping the yearly crayfish festivities in the face of dwindling Swedish supplies was, of course, never considered a possibility. So today, Sweden also imports crayfish from Turkey, China and Spain.

Domestic Swedish crayfish continue to be sold, at a premium price for their native qualities, but are in fact often American in origin (signal crayfish — Pacifastacus leniusculus). These crustaceans were planted in Swedish lakes following the outbreak of the crayfish pest.

Swedish crayfish eating 101

While Sweden now imports crayfish from other countries, Swedes continue to enjoy the crustaceans the way they always have: cold, dilled and washed down with schnapps.

The bibs, decorated with bright red crayfish, come in handy as you suck up the dill brine from each crustacean (Swedes typically don’t like to get messy) before moving on to the sometimes challenging quest of getting to the meat, while avoiding shell-peeling injuries.

There are different crayfish eating techniques. How much of the crustacean you consume is a matter of preference — and much debate. Some Swedes, like myself, will avoid sucking out the contents of the head because, well, it just doesn’t seem very appealing.

(Eating the crayfish head is, apparently, perfectly safe. The yellow blob inside the head that many mistake for a brain is actually a hepatopancreas, similar to a liver. I’m not convinced, however, that this anatomical fact makes the head any more appetizing.)

Carolina Romare/imagebank.sweden.se
There are different crayfish eating techniques. How much of the crustacean you consume is a matter of preference — and much debate. (Carolina Romare/imagebank.sweden.se)

My Mom, a frugal northern Swede, is of the conviction that eating anything less than the whole crayfish (apart from the peel) is a wasteful sin. Here’s how she goes about eating her crayfish:

“I start by snapping off one of the claws. This creates a straw from which I can suck out the delicious dill brine. Then, I cut off the head just behind the eyes, lift off the ‘shield’ and dig my teeth into the head and suck out the juices.” (This is where the transcendent part of the crayfish-eating experience begins for Mom. It’s also when I, her squeamish daughter, start to shutter.)

Once the decapitated head has been consumed (“the yellow stuff can taste a little tart, in a good way”), Mom breaks off and peels the tail — this is where you’ll find most of the meat. She then picks up a crayfish cracker (looks like a nutcracker) and begins working on the claws. She cracks the shell, removes it and then uses a small fork to get the meat out.

After sucking on the now clawless, headless crayfish body to make sure she didn’t miss any of the dill juices, it’s time for a sip of akvavit and a “nubbevisa,” or drinking song. The experience complete, it’s now on to the next crayfish.

(Between rounds of schnapps and bites of crustaceans, remember to fill your belly with plenty of side dishes, or else you’ll be experiencing a legendary crayfish party hangover the next day.)

If all that crayfish-peeling seems both intimidating and arduous, make sure you seat yourself next to someone you know who is in the know, or a sympathetic and able-looking stranger. Peeling a crayfish for someone else is an act of love. Mom always offers to peel mine, even though I’ve had quite a bit of practice by now. I am more than willing to accept her offer.

The Stockhome crayfish party is Aug. 19. There are two seatings available; at noon and at 5 p.m. $85 per person; $50 kids ages 3-12 (3 and under free). Order tickets online: stockhomepetaluma.com/shop. Stockhome restaurant, 220 Western Ave., Petaluma. 

$3 Million Midcentury in Santa Rosa Features Expansive Deck and Stunning Views

This four-bedroom, four-bathroom Santa Rosa home –built in 1954 and thoughtfully updated with quality elements and finishes – is listed for $2.995 million. (Open Homes Photography)
This four-bedroom, four-bathroom Santa Rosa home –built in 1954 and thoughtfully updated with quality elements and finishes – is listed for $2.995 million. (Open Homes Photography)

A midcentury modern home in Santa Rosa, with four bedrooms and four bathrooms, has hit the market for $2,995,000.

The home at 3667 Montecito Ave. was built in 1954 and has been thoughtfully updated with high-quality design elements and finishes. It is surrounded by lush greenery — the 1.38-acre lot boasts mature gardens, majestic oaks and 20 fruit trees, from figs and olives to lemons and peaches, as well as herbs in raised planter boxes. The scenery can be taken in through large windows and from an angular deck with a pool and six-person hot tub.

The home has Marvin french doors and sliders, which add a rustic, contemporary touch, while dark wood stairs and cabinets add warmth and richness to the airy space; an interior design trend we are seeing more and more, wherein exposed wood elements are replacing white-out finishes.

The home’s 3,280 square feet include a formal living room and dining area, where two fireplaces (one wood-burning and one electric) create a cozy atmosphere.

Click through the above gallery for a peek inside the home.

For more information, contact Robin Gordon, 707-291-7952, or Caroline Johnson, 707-486-9923 with The Agency Healdsburg – Real Estate, 119 North St., Healdsburg, 707- 756-8052, theagencyre.com, 3667montecito.com

Santa Rosa New Build Pairs Clean Lines and Marble Floors for a Sophisticated Modern Look

A brand-new home four-bedroom, four-bathroom dwelling designed in Santa Rosa is currently listed for $1.9 million. (Lunghi Studios)
A brand-new home four-bedroom, four-bathroom dwelling designed in Santa Rosa is currently listed for $1.9 million. (Lunghi Studios)

Superbly sleek, a grayscale palette, the cleanest of clean lines and marble floors throughout are some of the highlights of a 3,515-square-foot new build in Fountaingrove currently listed for $1,900,000.

The four-bedroom, four-bathroom home at 1991 West Bristlecone Court was designed and built by developers Amerjeet Saggu and Sahaj Saggu. Amenities include a plaster fireplace, a loungy seating area off the kitchen and two ensuite bathrooms. Oversized glass doors create a spectacular connection between interior and exterior spaces. The home has an additional room that could function as an office.

The home’s white exterior walls are sharply contrasted with a black aluminum roof. Placement high on a Fountaingrove hill offers sweeping views. Click through the above gallery for a peek in side the home. 

For more information on this property at 1991 West Bristlecone Court, contact Sudha Schlessinger, 707-477-3982, or Sam Marvi, 707-591-4733, with Engel and Völkers Sonoma County, 328 Healdsburg Ave., Suite B, Healdsburg, , sudhaschlesinger.com, sonomacounty.evrealestate.com

The Best Places to Eat in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square

Eggs Benedict from Americana. (Americana)

Ahand-drawn map of downtown Santa Rosa hangs inside Dawn Zaft’s tiny bakery on Donahue Street, with a sticker over the bakery’s location. “You Are Here,” it reads. In bustling Railroad Square, the SMART train whizzes by, restaurants come to life, residents walk their dogs and our beloved Charlie Brown and Snoopy welcome everyone from their permanent park-bench perch.

Railroad Square is Santa Rosa’s old town and historic heart. Buildings once used as warehouses, canneries, macaroni factories, breweries and rail-related enterprises have been retrofitted as specialty shops, restaurants and offices, according to the Historic Railroad Square Association. Beginning in the 1870s, trains connected the neighborhood with San Francisco, making it a hub for the growing town of Santa Rosa. It later slid into disrepair and, with the construction of the downtown mall, was cut off from Courthouse Square, something many feared would isolate the neighborhood even further.

But eventually, entrepreneurs slowly reclaimed historic buildings on Fourth Street, breathing new life into Railroad Square. Don Taylor’s Omelette Express has been a longtime destination, along with La Gare French Restaurant, Lococo’s Cucina Rustica, Josh Silvers’ Syrah (now Americana) and A’Roma Roasters. New housing and the SMART train have brought even more energy, and ongoing construction projects are delivering on longstanding promises of renewal. Though an unhoused population is still prominent in certain areas, there’s a dynamic sense of hope here, largely led by local restaurants.

Here’s a guide on where to eat in Railroad Square. Many of these restaurants have additional menus for other times of day, but I’ve chosen my favorite times to visit.

Grossman’s Noshery and Bar in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square. (Sonoma County Tourism)

Breakfast/brunch faves

Criminal Baking Co.: Burrowed in a brick warehouse, this tiny bakery is one of the best in the county. Dawn Zaft doesn’t settle for simple croissants and muffins. Instead, she sells “sinful sandos” like The Fun Guy, an English muffin stuffed with mushrooms, bacon, spinach, goat cheese, lemon curd (this is the secret sauce) and a baked egg ($14). The pastry case contains freshly baked turnovers, hand pies, knish, elderflower-almond bear claws and peach-blackberry scones. Many items are gluten-free and vegan, including some of Zaft’s famous cakes and pies.

It’s a perfect spot for post-dog-walking (dogs aren’t allowed inside the cafe, but you can pre-order on the cafe’s app and grab your food from their walk-up window). Open 7:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily. 808 Donahue St., Santa Rosa; 707-888-3546, criminalbaking.com

Grossman’s Noshery and Bar: This is the closest thing Sonoma County has to an authentic Jewish deli, with housemade bagels, lox, latkes, smoked meats, pickled fish, kreplach dumplings, matzoh ball soup and plenty of schmaltz. Owned by Mark and Terri Stark of Stark Reality Restaurants (Bird & the Bottle, Willi’s Wine Bar, Bravas and more) and with an outdoor patio and full bar, it’s a warm and inviting place to meet friends for breakfast or brunch. Open 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily. 308 Wilson St., Santa Rosa; 707-595-7707, grossmanssr.com

Americana: Husband-and-wife team Samantha and Ryan Ramey are passionate about local food. Their three restaurants (Estero in Valley Ford, Americana in Santa Rosa and a new Americana cafe in Sebastopol) proudly give props to 10 or more farms at a time. But there’s no question their menus are all about comfort food. Dig into buttermilk biscuits and country gravy; California Benedict on a fresh English muffin; or the breakfast salad with locally grown lettuces, bacon, egg, potatoes, trumpet mushrooms and fresh chevre. Breakfast and lunch from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily; dinner from 5 to 9 p.m. Thursday through Saturday. 205 Fifth St., Santa Rosa; 707-755-1548, americanasr.com

Omelette Express: This OG Railroad Square restaurant has been serving omelets since the dawn of time (nearly 50 years). Owner Don Taylor is frequently at the door welcoming guests and following in the footsteps of his mother, Nan. Omelets are the main event here, but there are also Benedicts, French toast and other breakfast fare. Open 6:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily, 112 Fourth St., Santa Rosa; 707-525-1690, omeletteexpress.com

A’Roma Roasters: Get excellent coffee, tea, sweets and light breakfast treats here. This is the spot to plop down with your computer, sip some Earl Grey and watch Railroad Square come to life. Open 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 6 a.m. to 7 p.m. Friday, 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Saturday and 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday. 95 Fifth St., Santa Rosa; 707-576-7765, aromaroasters.com

Lunch break

Khoom Lanna: This charming Thai bistro often gets overlooked but has excellent lunch specials that won’t break the bank. Rama The King is a favorite, loaded with veggies smothered in peanut sauce. Open 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. for lunch Monday through Friday; noon to 3 p.m. on the weekends. Also open for dinner. 107 Fourth St., Santa Rosa; 707-545-8424, khoomlannathaifood.com

Paradise Sushi: The all-you-can-eat menu for $26.95 (at lunch) is an ambitious endeavor but worth doing at least once. The three-item bento box is a more restrained option, with plenty of mix-and-match choices. Open 11:30 a.m. for lunch daily (closed Tuesday), 119 Fourth St., Santa Rosa; 707-542-4582, paradisesushi.net

La Gare French Restaurant at Historic Railroad Square in Santa Rosa. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)
La Gare French Restaurant at Historic Railroad Square in Santa Rosa. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)
Best of three different categories: Stark’s Stark's Steak & Seafood Friday, June 30, 2023 in Santa Rosa. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Stark’s Stark’s Steak & Seafood in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Dinner

Stark’s Steak and Seafood: This is a classic steakhouse, in the best sense, with a modern mindset. Aged beef is what you’re here for, although the tamarind prawns are also a solid choice. Creamed spinach and creme fraiche mashed potatoes are required, along with warm dill and garlic-butter bread. The lounge is a more casual date-night spot, and the weekday happy hour from 3 to 6 p.m. can’t be beat. Open for dinner from 5 to 9 p.m., 521 Adams St., Santa Rosa; 707-546-5100, starkrestaurants.com

La Gare: Locals have loved this historic French bistro for more than four decades. The classic French menu has beef Wellington, chateuabriand, sole Almondine and escargots de Bourgogne. Open 5 to 9 p.m. daily, 208 Wilson St., Santa Rosa; 707-528-4355, lagarerestaurant.com

Lococo’s Cocina Rustica: You’ll find time-honored Italian dishes like veal saltimbocca, risotto and eggplant parmigiana here. The menu appeals to an American palate while honoring traditional Italian cuisine. Open 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday, 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday, closed Monday. 117 Fourth St., Santa Rosa; 707-523-2227, lococos.net

Bar scene

The Goose & Fern: The former Toad in the Hole English pub has been reborn but not entirely reinvented. You can still get Brit favorites like fish and chips, Scotch eggs or a plowman’s platter and sip from an ever-rotating list of pints. The kitchen is open from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday. 116 Fifth St., Santa Rosa; 707-843-4235, thegooseandfern.com

Jackson’s: While the food is certainly a draw (grab some small bites like the truffle fries with lemon aioli), the bar is a popular hangout spot with excellent craft cocktails and the usual favorites. The Clueless cocktail has cucumber vodka, Pimm’s, blackberry and lemon. Happy hour is 3 to 5 p.m. weekdays; also open daily for lunch and dinner, 135 Fourth St., Santa Rosa; 707-545-6900, jacksonsbarandoven.com

19Ten Bar & Provisions: (Editor’s note: 19Ten closed in October of 2024.) The owners of Kin restaurant in Windsor and Kinsmoke in Healdsburg have upped their game with the sprawling 19Ten. Try a few small plates (the smoked brisket elote tacos are tops) and sample the creative cocktails that include classics and curious elixirs like the Aloe from the Other Side with Awayuki strawberry gin, aloe liqueur, bitters, lemon juice, cucumber and mint. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, 115 Fourth St., Santa Rosa; 707-791-7494, 19ten.com

“Strawberry Letter” ice cream cocktail at Nimble and Finn’s in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square. It’s strawberry sorbet with vermouth, elderflower, and champagne. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
“Strawberry Letter” ice cream cocktail at Nimble and Finn’s in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

Dessert

Nimble and Finn’s: Artisan ice cream is delicious, but artisan ice cream cocktails are even better. Gourmet sippers here include the Strawberry Letter with strawberry sorbet, sweet vermouth, elderflower and champagne or the Permanent Holiday with Meyer lemon ice cream, sweet vermouth and passion-fruit-rose cider. Noon to 9 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, open until 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. 123 Fourth St., Santa Rosa; 707-666-9590, nimbleandfinns.com

This article is part of a new series called “You Are Here.” In each article, I’ll explore the richly varied food scene in Sonoma County’s towns and districts, from Railroad Square to downtown Healdsburg, from Sebastopol to Cloverdale. Each has a distinct personality, and the food reflects — neighborhood by neighborhood — how people eat.

As a dining editor and a longtime observer of local chefs, restaurants and farmers, I’m excited to take a deep dive into what makes Sonoma County’s culinary landscape like no other. Find the articles in print in The Press Democrat and online at sonomamag.com

10 Best Things to Do in Occidental, CA

Mochi donuts, gluten-free summer squash tartlets, left, and Earl Grey polenta olive oil cakes, right, at The Altamont General Store in Occidental. (Beth Schlanker/Sonoma Magazine)

The tiny west county town of Occidental is an enclave of artists, locavores and ranching families with deep Sonoma County roots. Tucked amid the redwood-covered hills between Sebastopol and the coast, it’s a perfect getaway, far from the madding crowd. Click through the above gallery for a few of our favorite things to eat, drink and do in Occidental. Plus, a couple of top accommodations, if you’d like to spend the night.