Criminal Baking Co. in Santa Rosa is starting a happy-hour concept called Visitation Hours from 3 to 6 p.m. Thursday through Saturday at their 808 Donahue St. location.
The idea is for customers to grab wine, beer or specialty cocktails made with sparkling wine (or fizzy water), housemade syrups, fruit and herbs. The bakery’s evening menu includes charcuterie boards (both meat and vegetarian), savory tartines, pies, quiche, frittata, cakes and other desserts. Families are welcome to join the low-key event which will have an updated kids’ menu.
When longtime SRJC neighborhood restaurant Jalisco’s recently went dark, it was followed by an outpouring of concern over what would become of the spot.
The answer is Tlahco Mexican Grill, co-owned by Gustavo Martinez of Paradise Sushi restaurants in Petaluma, Rohnert Park and Santa Rosa.
Located at 1800 Mendocino Ave., the new restaurant will feature traditional Mexican fare including tacos, which originated in Mesoamerica.
“The word taco comes from the Nahuatl word ‘tlahco’ (pronounced ‘tla-ko’), which means ‘half or in the middle,’ referring to the way it is formed,” said a news release announcing the forthcoming opening, anticipated this month. Martinez debuted the restaurant concept at this year’s North Coast Food and Wine Festival where he served al pastor and carne asada tacos.
Martinez worked his way up the restaurant ladder at a popular sushi restaurant near Lake Tahoe. After selling his truck and land in Mexico, the entrepreneur partnered with his brothers to open three Sonoma County sushi venues, plus Paradise Sushi & Hibachi restaurant in Bennett Valley.
Fish and chips at The Goose & Fern in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Who knew Scotch eggs would be the crowd favorite at Railroad Square’s new Goose & Fern pub in Santa Rosa? Apparently, no one, because Clyde Hartwell, co-owner of the newly opened British pub, can barely keep up with the popularity of the bar staple — an egg nested in a ball of sausage with a fried breadcrumb coating. It’s a belly-filler and just one of the gastropub dishes on the menu at the former Toad in the Hole bar.
Hartwell, who speaks with a brogue as thick as his salt-and-pepper beard, runs the come-as-you-are establishment with his wife, Brittany, a trained pastry chef. Hearty pints of ale, lager and stout (including Guinness, natch) are plentiful, but you’ll also find hard cider, wine and sodas.
But it’s the food that has us hooked. Fish and chips are the obvious go-to, and this version doesn’t disappoint. Crisp and perfectly fried in a beer-batter coating, it’s a whopper of a serving — half a rock cod — and includes a mess of hand-cut chips (i.e., fries) and zesty tartar sauce ($22). Sausage rolls ($10) are savory puff pastry logs filled with ground pork and perfect when dipped in spicy mustard. The show’s stars, however, are the savory pies ($18), and the headliner is the Guinness-braised beef served in a piping-hot ramekin and topped with mashed potatoes. Any leftovers are a breakfast treat.
Don’t miss dessert, which changes frequently but usually includes something like Eton mess (strawberries, meringue and whipped cream) or bread-and-butter pudding with custard. Open Wed. from 5 to 10 p.m., Thu 1130 a.m. to 10 p.m., Fri/Sat from 11:30 a.m. to midnight and Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Closed Mon/TueDinner served until 9 p.m. 116 Fifth St., Santa Rosa, 707-843-4235.
More dining news
Top-notch zinfandel producers will pair up with some of Wine Country’s best chefs at the annual Project Zin event on Saturday at Bricoleur Vineyards in Windsor. The event, benefiting Down Syndrome Connection of the Bay Area, is hosted by chef Charlie Palmer (Dry Creek Kitchen, Charlie Palmer Steakhouse) and winemaker Clay Mauritson. It will feature bites from local restaurants including Catelli’s, Diavola, John Ash & Co., Little Saint, Maison Porcella, SingleThread, The Madrona and Valette. Details and tickets, starting at $200, are online at projectzin.org.
In Sweden, summer’s end heralds the return of crayfish season and with it a host of “kräftskivor” (crayfish parties). For a few weeks in August, usually reserved Swedes kick off their shoes for one last summer festivity, donning party hats and adjusting bibs as they consume buckets of dill-brined crustaceans between rounds of schnapps and drinking songs.
On Aug. 19, Swedish chef Roberth Sundell will host a traditional kräftskiva at his Petaluma restaurant, Stockhome. The family-style menu will include plenty of dilled Swedish crayfish, along with side dishes like Crawfish Soup with Saffron Aioli, Cheese and Caramelized Onion Pie, Swedish Deviled Eggs and, for dessert, Lingonberry Cheesecake.
I won’t be able to attend the kräftskiva in Petaluma this year. But, as a native Swede, I am more than happy to offer you a crash course into the intricacies of a Swedish crayfish party.
First, a brief history lesson.
A centuries-old tradition
The Swedish kräftskiva is a centuries-old tradition celebrated in literature and songs that derives from a time when freshwater crayfish were exclusively consumed by the ruling elite.
(The first time crayfish are mentioned in relation to Swedish gastronomy is in a communication from King Erik XIV to the bailiff of Nyköping Castle dated 1562. In the letter, the king commands the harvesting of large amounts of crayfish for his sister Anna’s wedding.)
With the rise of the Swedish middle class at the end of the 19th century, crayfish, served whole and cold after being boiled in salted water and seasoned with dill, began to be enjoyed by a larger population.
This sudden increase in crayfish consumption had a depletive effect on the domestic crustacean population. As a result, harvesting was forbidden from November until August 7.
And so the tradition of crayfish parties in August was begun. In 1994, crayfish restrictions were rescinded, but Swedes continue to honor the tradition of premiering the crayfish season in early August.
A traditional crayfish party takes place only in August. All you need is some friends, a heap of freshly boiled crayfish, paper hats and decorations, some beer and schnapps and a selection of silly drinking songs. (Carolina Romare/imagebank.sweden.se)Swedish crayfish are cooked in brine, with plenty of dill. (Carolina Romare/imagebank.sweden.se)
Crayfish US-style
For decades, Swedes have imported crayfish from the United States to fill the gap left by the depletion of native Swedish crustaceans when domestic catches fell victim to a fatal fungus. The Swedish “crayfish pest” first appeared at the turn of the 20th century, but it was not until the 1970s that a serious shortage of the domestic strains became apparent.
Dropping the yearly crayfish festivities in the face of dwindling Swedish supplies was, of course, never considered a possibility. So today, Sweden also imports crayfish from Turkey, China and Spain.
Domestic Swedish crayfish continue to be sold, at a premium price for their native qualities, but are in fact often American in origin (signal crayfish — Pacifastacus leniusculus). These crustaceans were planted in Swedish lakes following the outbreak of the crayfish pest.
Swedish crayfish eating 101
While Sweden now imports crayfish from other countries, Swedes continue to enjoy the crustaceans the way they always have: cold, dilled and washed down with schnapps.
The bibs, decorated with bright red crayfish, come in handy as you suck up the dill brine from each crustacean (Swedes typically don’t like to get messy) before moving on to the sometimes challenging quest of getting to the meat, while avoiding shell-peeling injuries.
There are different crayfish eating techniques. How much of the crustacean you consume is a matter of preference — and much debate. Some Swedes, like myself, will avoid sucking out the contents of the head because, well, it just doesn’t seem very appealing.
(Eating the crayfish head is, apparently, perfectly safe. The yellow blob inside the head that many mistake for a brain is actually a hepatopancreas, similar to a liver. I’m not convinced, however, that this anatomical fact makes the head any more appetizing.)
There are different crayfish eating techniques. How much of the crustacean you consume is a matter of preference — and much debate. (Carolina Romare/imagebank.sweden.se)
My Mom, a frugal northern Swede, is of the conviction that eating anything less than the whole crayfish (apart from the peel) is a wasteful sin. Here’s how she goes about eating her crayfish:
“I start by snapping off one of the claws. This creates a straw from which I can suck out the delicious dill brine. Then, I cut off the head just behind the eyes, lift off the ‘shield’ and dig my teeth into the head and suck out the juices.” (This is where the transcendent part of the crayfish-eating experience begins for Mom. It’s also when I, her squeamish daughter, start to shutter.)
Once the decapitated head has been consumed (“the yellow stuff can taste a little tart, in a good way”), Mom breaks off and peels the tail — this is where you’ll find most of the meat. She then picks up a crayfish cracker (looks like a nutcracker) and begins working on the claws. She cracks the shell, removes it and then uses a small fork to get the meat out.
After sucking on the now clawless, headless crayfish body to make sure she didn’t miss any of the dill juices, it’s time for a sip of akvavit and a “nubbevisa,” or drinking song. The experience complete, it’s now on to the next crayfish.
(Between rounds of schnapps and bites of crustaceans, remember to fill your belly with plenty of side dishes, or else you’ll be experiencing a legendary crayfish party hangover the next day.)
If all that crayfish-peeling seems both intimidating and arduous, make sure you seat yourself next to someone you know who is in the know, or a sympathetic and able-looking stranger. Peeling a crayfish for someone else is an act of love. Mom always offers to peel mine, even though I’ve had quite a bit of practice by now. I am more than willing to accept her offer.
The Stockhome crayfish party is Aug. 19. There are two seatings available; at noon and at 5 p.m. $85 per person; $50 kids ages 3-12 (3 and under free). Order tickets online: stockhomepetaluma.com/shop. Stockhome restaurant, 220 Western Ave., Petaluma.
This four-bedroom, four-bathroom Santa Rosa home –built in 1954 and thoughtfully updated with quality elements and finishes – is listed for $2.995 million. (Open Homes Photography)
A midcentury modern home in Santa Rosa, with four bedrooms and four bathrooms, has hit the market for $2,995,000.
The home at 3667 Montecito Ave. was built in 1954 and has been thoughtfully updated with high-quality design elements and finishes. It is surrounded by lush greenery — the 1.38-acre lot boasts mature gardens, majestic oaks and 20 fruit trees, from figs and olives to lemons and peaches, as well as herbs in raised planter boxes. The scenery can be taken in through large windows and from an angular deck with a pool and six-person hot tub.
The home has Marvin french doors and sliders, which add a rustic, contemporary touch, while dark wood stairs and cabinets add warmth and richness to the airy space; an interior design trend we are seeing more and more, wherein exposed wood elements are replacing white-out finishes.
The home’s 3,280 square feet include a formal living room and dining area, where two fireplaces (one wood-burning and one electric) create a cozy atmosphere.
Click through the above gallery for a peek inside the home.
For more information, contact Robin Gordon, 707-291-7952, or Caroline Johnson, 707-486-9923 with The Agency Healdsburg – Real Estate, 119 North St., Healdsburg, 707- 756-8052, theagencyre.com, 3667montecito.com
A brand-new home four-bedroom, four-bathroom dwelling designed in Santa Rosa is currently listed for $1.9 million. (Lunghi Studios)
Superbly sleek, a grayscale palette, the cleanest of clean lines and marble floors throughout are some of the highlights of a 3,515-square-foot new build in Fountaingrove currently listed for $1,900,000.
The four-bedroom, four-bathroom home at 1991 West Bristlecone Court was designed and built by developers Amerjeet Saggu and Sahaj Saggu. Amenities include a plaster fireplace, a loungy seating area off the kitchen and two ensuite bathrooms. Oversized glass doors create a spectacular connection between interior and exterior spaces. The home has an additional room that could function as an office.
The home’s white exterior walls are sharply contrasted with a black aluminum roof. Placement high on a Fountaingrove hill offers sweeping views. Click through the above gallery for a peek in side the home.
For more information on this property at 1991 West Bristlecone Court, contact Sudha Schlessinger, 707-477-3982, or Sam Marvi, 707-591-4733, with Engel and Völkers Sonoma County, 328 Healdsburg Ave., Suite B, Healdsburg, , sudhaschlesinger.com, sonomacounty.evrealestate.com
Ahand-drawn map of downtown Santa Rosa hangs inside Dawn Zaft’s tiny bakery on Donahue Street, with a sticker over the bakery’s location. “You Are Here,” it reads. In bustling Railroad Square, the SMART train whizzes by, restaurants come to life, residents walk their dogs and our beloved Charlie Brown and Snoopy welcome everyone from their permanent park-bench perch.
Railroad Square is Santa Rosa’s old town and historic heart. Buildings once used as warehouses, canneries, macaroni factories, breweries and rail-related enterprises have been retrofitted as specialty shops, restaurants and offices, according to the Historic Railroad Square Association. Beginning in the 1870s, trains connected the neighborhood with San Francisco, making it a hub for the growing town of Santa Rosa. It later slid into disrepair and, with the construction of the downtown mall, was cut off from Courthouse Square, something many feared would isolate the neighborhood even further.
But eventually, entrepreneurs slowly reclaimed historic buildings on Fourth Street, breathing new life into Railroad Square. Don Taylor’s Omelette Express has been a longtime destination, along with La Gare French Restaurant, Lococo’s Cucina Rustica, Josh Silvers’ Syrah (now Americana) and A’Roma Roasters. New housing and the SMART train have brought even more energy, and ongoing construction projects are delivering on longstanding promises of renewal. Though an unhoused population is still prominent in certain areas, there’s a dynamic sense of hope here, largely led by local restaurants.
Here’s a guide on where to eat in Railroad Square. Many of these restaurants have additional menus for other times of day, but I’ve chosen my favorite times to visit.
Grossman’s Noshery and Bar in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square. (Sonoma County Tourism)
Breakfast/brunch faves
Criminal Baking Co.: Burrowed in a brick warehouse, this tiny bakery is one of the best in the county. Dawn Zaft doesn’t settle for simple croissants and muffins. Instead, she sells “sinful sandos” like The Fun Guy, an English muffin stuffed with mushrooms, bacon, spinach, goat cheese, lemon curd (this is the secret sauce) and a baked egg ($14). The pastry case contains freshly baked turnovers, hand pies, knish, elderflower-almond bear claws and peach-blackberry scones. Many items are gluten-free and vegan, including some of Zaft’s famous cakes and pies.
It’s a perfect spot for post-dog-walking (dogs aren’t allowed inside the cafe, but you can pre-order on the cafe’s app and grab your food from their walk-up window). Open 7:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily. 808 Donahue St., Santa Rosa; 707-888-3546, criminalbaking.com
Grossman’s Noshery and Bar: This is the closest thing Sonoma County has to an authentic Jewish deli, with housemade bagels, lox, latkes, smoked meats, pickled fish, kreplach dumplings, matzoh ball soup and plenty of schmaltz. Owned by Mark and Terri Stark of Stark Reality Restaurants (Bird & the Bottle, Willi’s Wine Bar, Bravas and more) and with an outdoor patio and full bar, it’s a warm and inviting place to meet friends for breakfast or brunch. Open 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily. 308 Wilson St., Santa Rosa; 707-595-7707, grossmanssr.com
Americana: Husband-and-wife team Samantha and Ryan Ramey are passionate about local food. Their three restaurants (Estero in Valley Ford, Americana in Santa Rosa and a new Americana cafe in Sebastopol) proudly give props to 10 or more farms at a time. But there’s no question their menus are all about comfort food. Dig into buttermilk biscuits and country gravy; California Benedict on a fresh English muffin; or the breakfast salad with locally grown lettuces, bacon, egg, potatoes, trumpet mushrooms and fresh chevre. Breakfast and lunch from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily; dinner from 5 to 9 p.m. Thursday through Saturday. 205 Fifth St., Santa Rosa; 707-755-1548, americanasr.com
Omelette Express: This OG Railroad Square restaurant has been serving omelets since the dawn of time (nearly 50 years). Owner Don Taylor is frequently at the door welcoming guests and following in the footsteps of his mother, Nan. Omelets are the main event here, but there are also Benedicts, French toast and other breakfast fare. Open 6:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily, 112 Fourth St., Santa Rosa; 707-525-1690, omeletteexpress.com
A’Roma Roasters: Get excellent coffee, tea, sweets and light breakfast treats here. This is the spot to plop down with your computer, sip some Earl Grey and watch Railroad Square come to life. Open 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 6 a.m. to 7 p.m. Friday, 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Saturday and 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday. 95 Fifth St., Santa Rosa; 707-576-7765, aromaroasters.com
Lunch break
Khoom Lanna: This charming Thai bistro often gets overlooked but has excellent lunch specials that won’t break the bank. Rama The King is a favorite, loaded with veggies smothered in peanut sauce. Open 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. for lunch Monday through Friday; noon to 3 p.m. on the weekends. Also open for dinner. 107 Fourth St., Santa Rosa; 707-545-8424, khoomlannathaifood.com
Paradise Sushi: The all-you-can-eat menu for $26.95 (at lunch) is an ambitious endeavor but worth doing at least once. The three-item bento box is a more restrained option, with plenty of mix-and-match choices. Open 11:30 a.m. for lunch daily (closed Tuesday), 119 Fourth St., Santa Rosa; 707-542-4582, paradisesushi.net
La Gare French Restaurant at Historic Railroad Square in Santa Rosa. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)Stark’s Stark’s Steak & Seafood in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Dinner
Stark’s Steak and Seafood: This is a classic steakhouse, in the best sense, with a modern mindset. Aged beef is what you’re here for, although the tamarind prawns are also a solid choice. Creamed spinach and creme fraiche mashed potatoes are required, along with warm dill and garlic-butter bread. The lounge is a more casual date-night spot, and the weekday happy hour from 3 to 6 p.m. can’t be beat. Open for dinner from 5 to 9 p.m., 521 Adams St., Santa Rosa; 707-546-5100, starkrestaurants.com
La Gare: Locals have loved this historic French bistro for more than four decades. The classic French menu has beef Wellington, chateuabriand, sole Almondine and escargots de Bourgogne. Open 5 to 9 p.m. daily, 208 Wilson St., Santa Rosa; 707-528-4355, lagarerestaurant.com
Lococo’s Cocina Rustica: You’ll find time-honored Italian dishes like veal saltimbocca, risotto and eggplant parmigiana here. The menu appeals to an American palate while honoring traditional Italian cuisine. Open 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday, 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday, closed Monday. 117 Fourth St., Santa Rosa; 707-523-2227, lococos.net
Bar scene
The Goose & Fern: The former Toad in the Hole English pub has been reborn but not entirely reinvented. You can still get Brit favorites like fish and chips, Scotch eggs or a plowman’s platter and sip from an ever-rotating list of pints. The kitchen is open from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday. 116 Fifth St., Santa Rosa; 707-843-4235, thegooseandfern.com
Jackson’s: While the food is certainly a draw (grab some small bites like the truffle fries with lemon aioli), the bar is a popular hangout spot with excellent craft cocktails and the usual favorites. The Clueless cocktail has cucumber vodka, Pimm’s, blackberry and lemon. Happy hour is 3 to 5 p.m. weekdays; also open daily for lunch and dinner, 135 Fourth St., Santa Rosa; 707-545-6900, jacksonsbarandoven.com
19Ten Bar & Provisions:(Editor’s note: 19Ten closed in October of 2024.) The owners of Kin restaurant in Windsor and Kinsmoke in Healdsburg have upped their game with the sprawling 19Ten. Try a few small plates (the smoked brisket elote tacos are tops) and sample the creative cocktails that include classics and curious elixirs like the Aloe from the Other Side with Awayuki strawberry gin, aloe liqueur, bitters, lemon juice, cucumber and mint. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, 115 Fourth St., Santa Rosa; 707-791-7494, 19ten.com
“Strawberry Letter” ice cream cocktail at Nimble and Finn’s in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Dessert
Nimble and Finn’s: Artisan ice cream is delicious, but artisan ice cream cocktails are even better. Gourmet sippers here include the Strawberry Letter with strawberry sorbet, sweet vermouth, elderflower and champagne or the Permanent Holiday with Meyer lemon ice cream, sweet vermouth and passion-fruit-rose cider. Noon to 9 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, open until 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. 123 Fourth St., Santa Rosa; 707-666-9590, nimbleandfinns.com
This article is part of a new series called “You Are Here.” In each article, I’ll explore the richly varied food scene in Sonoma County’s towns and districts, from Railroad Square to downtown Healdsburg, from Sebastopol to Cloverdale. Each has a distinct personality, and the food reflects — neighborhood by neighborhood — how people eat.
As a dining editor and a longtime observer of local chefs, restaurants and farmers, I’m excited to take a deep dive into what makes Sonoma County’s culinary landscape like no other. Find the articles in print in The Press Democrat and online at sonomamag.com.
Mochi donuts, gluten-free summer squash tartlets, left, and Earl Grey polenta olive oil cakes, right, at The Altamont General Store in Occidental. (Beth Schlanker/Sonoma Magazine)
The tiny west county town of Occidental is an enclave of artists, locavores and ranching families with deep Sonoma County roots. Tucked amid the redwood-covered hills between Sebastopol and the coast, it’s a perfect getaway, far from the madding crowd. Click through the above gallery for a few of our favorite things to eat, drink and do in Occidental. Plus, a couple of top accommodations, if you’d like to spend the night.
Earth artist Kelsi Anderson who paints artworks with natural pigments right into the landscape that are ephemeral and disappear with wind and rain and grass, shows off their most recent work in Green Valley west of Sebastopol. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
On a hillside overlooking a farm deep in West Sonoma’s forested Green Valley, an owl hovers, wings outstretched. She is a formidable bird, her wingspan extending some 150 feet, appearing from the fields below like a shadow on the earth.
She won’t be staying long. As the grass grows, spinning from spring green to summer gold, she will, blade by blade, recede into the landscape. By late summer, she will be gone, with no visible trace except perhaps a bit of oyster shell in the soil or smattering of ochre pigment clinging to a blade of grass.
This is exactly as artist Kelsi Anderson of Wild Earth Art intended. Using natural pigments and a spray gun with a 100-foot cord as a brush—her “magic wand” as she playfully calls it—she spends several weeks painting a piece into the natural landscape that, by design, will last only a few days or weeks. Her extraordinarily detailed sand drawings, raked onto a beach, vanish even more quickly, overtaken by wind and tide.
Anderson mixes her natural pigments by hand. The pigments are designed to break down soon after application. Iron oxide, clay, and calcium carbonate work to nourish the soil as they break down. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)Anderson mixes her natural pigments by hand. The pigments are designed to break down soon after application. Iron oxide, clay, and calcium carbonate work to nourish the soil as they break down. (Erik Castro)
Anderson may feel slightly wistful, but she won’t mourn, for her art is not meant to last and is as much about its making—the process, “the dance with nature,” as she calls it. “Part of the awareness of the piece is that everything is always changing. It has both the elements of surprise and spontaneity,” she says of her singular medium and method of creating ephemeral art in the natural landscape. “When is a painting going to appear and when is it going away? That makes you feel and be really present when you realize, ‘This won’t last.’”
Anderson, a Petaluma native, studied traditional fine art and environmental studies at New York University, where she was mentored by a like-minded environmental artist who stalked nature in one of the most built environments in the world. “We were doing a lot of work directly in the city” she says, “finding all the hidden streams in Manhattan and the different urban gardens. It was amazing. But now I’m in the complete opposite space.”
She has an indoor studio at her home in Forestville. But these days, she revels in her outdoor studio at Green Valley Farm + Mill, a 19th-century homestead where farmers, artists, gardeners, herb growers, and other makers share a sylvan space.
In a green jumpsuit spackled with pigment and boots blackened with iron oxide powder, the 35-year-old artist explores the land for possibilities. In her three years experimenting with equipment and developing a technique for a process few other artists have tried—she found only one artist in France doing the same thing but senses it’s “in the ether now”—she has painted birds on a hill, a snake in a meadow, a group of owls in flight.
Before embarking on a piece, she sits in her chosen spot, quietly meditating and tuning in to the birds and animals, wildflowers and trees, waiting for an image to appear to her. The process, she says is spiritual as well as creative. “I do a lot of imagery with birds. There are a lot of barn owls and great horned owls in this valley and in these barns and I wanted to pay homage to the species that live here.”
Once she has her theme she will take photos of the site and sketch out an image in a notebook. She had to learn how to work on a whole different scale proportionally, as well as to decide what vantage point she wants the image to be seen from. “I want this to look good and realistic from where we’re standing, so people passing by can appreciate it,” she says.
As she works, she is also stewarding the land. The pigments that she uses—iron oxide, clay, calcium carbonate—nourish the soil. She is careful not to disturb native grasses and wildflowers, even if it leaves a splotch in the finished piece. “So even in the act of preparing the canvas there is ecological remediation work that is going on. And that too is my background and my passion and my love,” says the artist, who also has a business designing and installing eco-friendly landscapes that welcome wildlife.
Two recent earth art works Anderson created at rural beaches along the North Coast. The designs are raked into the sand with hand tools and disappear with the tides.
Anderson applies natural pigments to a hillside with an industrial paint sprayer. It’s strenuous work at times, as she hauls buckets of pigment and wrestles with equipment. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)Anderson applies natural pigments to a hillside with an industrial paint sprayer. It’s strenuous work at times, as she hauls buckets of pigment and wrestles with equipment. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)
Earlier in her career, Anderson made naturally pigmented earthen walls for building interiors. She has also worked with artist Andres Amador to create designs on beaches along the Sonoma and Mendocino coast. “That work is not only site-specific, but you have to work with the tides. There are just those windows when there are super-low tides. It’s fun and another way to get in synch with nature but also limiting,” she says.
Whether working with sand or soil, the satisfaction for Anderson is in the creation. She likens landscape art to urban graffiti and street art, work she finds “stunning” but “extremely toxic.” She would rather play gently with nature and embrace the impermanence. She says her work illuminates the natural spirit of the land, drawing people to places of sanctuary.
In the future, she hopes to partner with land conservation groups on installations, like the wide-scale salmon painting she created last year to celebrate a local stream restoration project. “I deeply believe in public art that is accessible to all,” she says, “creating work that makes people want to engage with the environment.”
Conquering the Wild
Kelsi Anderson of Wild Earth Art creates large-scale projects on properties throughout Sonoma County. In June, she debuted a piece at Paradise Ridge Winery in Santa Rosa. And on July 16, she will welcome visitors to Green Valley Farm + Mill in Sebastopol to view her newest work. 707-2 17-5634, wildearthart.co
Healdsburg artist and chef Naomi McLeod dreams up outdoor celebrations with graceful table settings and fine food and wine — joyous times where memories are made and new friendships cemented.
Her business, Field Day CA, coordinates themed pop-up dinners showcasing local chefs, winemakers, and creatives — all staged in bucolic Sonoma County farms and fields.
Outdoor farm dinners are not a new thing in Sonoma County, where our abundant agricultural heritage and deep bench of chef talent lend weight to such experiences. But McLeod has taken the notion to another level with a focus not just on food but on celebrating her wider creative community. She often incorporates live local music and art displays into her programming.
Increasingly, she’s also offering pre-dinner art-making workshops where guests can channel their inner muses.
Hugo is the the nickname for the vintage school bus that chef Naomi McLeod uses for her farm-to-table chef events. (Conor Hagen)
McLeod has been drawn to beauty all her life. She grew up in the famously artistic center of Santa Fe, New Mexico, then at 21, moved to California. She’s lived in Seattle, New York, San Francisco, and now Healdsburg, where she moved to take a job as event coordinator at SHED, the former culinary marketplace. “Through all the different disciplines I’ve worked and played in, my interests were always around art, food, and wine,” she explains.
The Field Day CA idea began percolating in 2014, when a friend purchased a vintage Blue Bird International school bus and retrofitted it into a fully functioning catering kitchen. McLeod stepped in part time to help her friend with some small events, while raising a newborn son. The two friends’ fledgling work saluted the phenomenon of Outstanding in the Field, a farm-focused, rock ‘n’ rollstyle series of al fresco dinners, where McLeod had briefly worked.
Under the trees at Preston of Dry Creek, chef Naomi McLeod serves an easy summer meal. (Conor Hagen)The bus contains a full kitchen that runs off a generator and battery system. (Conor Hagen)
During the pandemic, McLeod bought the kitchen bus from her friend, named it Hugo, and started putting together a new round of ideas for growing the business.
But then McLeod lost her home in the Walbridge Fire. “So, home schooling with a kid and no house—the bus just sat idly by.” Finally, in 2021, she was more settled and ready to relaunch. “That first dinner was at a woman’s house with spectacular Zinfandel vines, apple orchards and redwoods,” she says—and it was gorgeous.
McLeod is currently reveling in the bounty of local summer produce—peaches, zucchini, peppers, and herbs especially—and focusing on expanding her lineup of public events and dinners. “I feel like those events are the most authentically me,” she says. “I love collaborating with all the art and food talent in Sonoma County and bringing people together. Sharing our Dry Creek farms like Preston — they’re just so pretty and wild, and they’re all great people.”
Field Day’s Honey-Roasted Carrots With Spiced Labneh and Herbs. (Conor Hagen)
Field Day’s Honey-Roasted Carrots With Spiced Labneh and Herbs
Labneh is a thickened yogurt common in Middle Eastern cuisines. Chef Naomi McLeod of farm-to-table catering business Field Day CA makes it at home by allowing full-fat yogurt to drain until thickened. She says tender carrots such as Nantes work beautifully for this dish.
Serves four as a side dish
• 2 bunches carrots
• 3-4 tbsp. plus an additional 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 1 tbsp. honey
• 2 tsp. cumin
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 8 ounces full-fat yogurt, such as Straus
• 1/2 shallot, chopped
• 1/4 tsp. Aleppo pepper
• 1/4 tsp. turmeric
• 1/2 cup mixed chopped herbs, such as chives, tarragon, cilantro, basil, and dill
• Half a lemon
• Pinch of flaked sea salt (such as Maldon)
• Crusty bread, for serving First, strain the yogurt. Add a pinch of salt to the yogurt, stir gently, and place in a square of muslin over a bowl. Allow to strain for 1-2 hours.
Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Wash and scrub carrots, but do not peel. Place on a baking tray and toss with 3-4 tbsp. olive oil, honey, cumin, salt, and pepper.
Roast carrots at 400 degrees for 10 minutes, then lower the oven temperature to 350 degrees and continue to roast until carrots are softened but still a tiny bit firm, about 20 additional minutes, depending on the size of your carrots. Remove carrots from roasting pan and set aside to cool.
Heat ¼ cup olive oil in a pan on a medium-hot stove. Add shallots, turmeric, Aleppo pepper, salt, and pepper to the oil and fry until shallots are lightly browned. Remove from heat and allow to cool.
In a small bowl, combine the shallot oil, strained yogurt, and chopped herbs. Stir gently to combine.
To serve, spread the yogurt mixture across the bottom of a medium-size serving platter. Top with roasted carrots. Garnish with a squeeze of lemon juice, flaked sea salt, and an additional pinch of Aleppo pepper, if desired. Serve with crusty bread.
Shrimp and Zucchini Ribbon Salad With Mint. (Conor Hagen)
Shrimp and Zucchini Ribbon Salad With Mint
Serves two as a main dish, four as a hearty side
Chef Naomi McLeod of Healdsburg’s Field Day CA says this summertime salad features a terrific combination of crunch from the almonds and salty savoriness from the Parmesan cheese.
• 1/2 cup Marcona almonds
• 1/3 cup plus 2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
• 1/3 cup sherry vinegar
• Juice of 1 large lemon
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 3 medium zucchini
• 2 large shallots, chopped
• 1 pound peeled uncooked shrimp
• 1/3 cup white wine
• 1 bunch fresh mint
• 3 ounces Parmesan cheese, shaved into wide strips First, toast the almonds. Heat a small pan over high heat. Add the almonds to the pan and stir until aromatic and lightly browned, about 3 minutes.
Remove from pan and allow to cool, then chop roughly and set aside.
In a large bowl, whisk together olive oil, sherry vinegar, lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste to make a simple dressing. Using a mandoline, shave the zucchini into long, thin strips. Add the zucchini strips to the bowl with the dressing and toss well to coat.
Heat a pan with 2 tbsp. olive oil and 2 tbsp. butter over medium to mediumhigh heat. Add the sliced shallots and let soften for 2 minutes. Add the shrimp and white wine and cook an additional 2-3 minutes until the sauce has been reduced slightly. The shrimp should be firm but not overcooked.
Remove from heat and set aside. To assemble the salad, toss the zucchini and shrimp together with chopped mint, almonds, and Parmesan (reserving a small amount of mint, almonds, and Parmesan for the final garnish).
Divide the tossed salad among individual plates. Top with the rest of the Parmesan cheese, mint, and almonds, and serve right away.
Ras El Hanout Pound Cake With Grilled Peaches. (Conor Hagen)
Ras El Hanout Pound Cake With Grilled Peaches
“I don’t like super-sweet desserts,” says Field Day CA chef Naomi McLeod, who explains that the Moroccan spice blend ras el hanout brings a complex, earthy, baking spice element to this easy summer pound cake recipe. McLeod lives just a half-mile from the famed orchards at Healdsburg’s Dry Creek Peach and loves to incorporate their beautifully tart-ripe orange peaches in this dish.
Serves 10
For the glazed peaches and sauce:
• 3 ripe peaches, halved
• 1/2 cup honey
• 1 1/2 sticks (12 tbsp.) butter
• 1 tbsp. ras el hanout
For the cake:
• 3/4 cup sugar
• 1 tbsp. ras el hanout
• 4 eggs
• 1/2 cup milk
• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 2 1/2 tsp. baking powder
• 7 tbsp. butter, melted
• 2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 1/3 cup pistachios or walnuts, chopped (optional)
• Freshly whipped cream, for serving Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Prepare the peach topping. Grill peach halves over medium flame until soft and lightly marked by the grill. Slice into wedges.
Melt butter on a stove over medium-low heat, then add honey and stir well to combine. Add 1 tbsp. ras el hanout and stir to combine. Remove from heat, add sliced peaches, and toss gently.
Set aside.
To prepare the cake, combine sugar and 1 tbsp. ras el hanout in a large mixing bowl. Add the eggs and milk, and mix with an electric hand mixer until combined. Add in the melted butter, olive oil, and nuts, if using, and mix. Finally, add the flour and baking powder and mix gently until all ingredients are incorporated into the batter.
Butter a standard-size loaf pan and dust the sides and bottom with flour. Pour the batter into the pan.
Bake at 350 degrees for 50 minutes. Before removing from the oven, check for doneness with a clean toothpick or knife. Allow the cake to cool for 30 minutes.
To serve, slice the pound cake and place slices on individual serving plates. Drizzle slices with the peach sauce, and top with grilled peaches and whipped cream.
