Click through the above gallery for our editor’s picks for Sonoma County’s best hikes, with hallmark views of vineyards, oak woodlands and stunning coastal bluffs.
Top 10 Hikes in Sonoma County
Napa Valley Restaurant Named One of the Best in the US by Esquire
Auro restaurant at the Four Seasons Resort and Residences in Calistoga has been named one of Esquire magazine’s Best New Restaurants in America, 2023. Authors of the Nov. 28 article noted 50 restaurants across the country for their “radical authenticity” and “raw honesty.”
“While there’s no shortage of places in Wine Country that will give you the luxe tasting-menu treatment, Auro, helmed by chef Rogelio Garcia, does so with precision and California ease,” wrote Kevin Sintumuang, one of four writers contributing to the article. Two hundred restaurants were tested by the authors from coast to coast.
Auro won its first Michelin star in July, and Garcia, 37, is truly Napa Valley’s phenom of the moment. He’s garnered accolades for his fresh versions of hyperlocal Wine Country cuisine. The restaurant has been featured in the Robb Report, Forbes Magazine, San Francisco Chronicle and The Press Democrat in recent months.
Garcia is no newcomer to fine dining. He’s a Napa native who started his culinary journey at age 15 as a dishwasher and moved up through the ranks of Cyrus, the French Laundry, the now-closed Commissary in San Francisco and others. He is also executive chef of Truss, the Four Seasons’ upscale casual restaurant.
Raised in a Mexican-American family, Rogelio is returning to his roots with a forthcoming cookbook, “Convivir: Modern Mexican Cooking in California’s Wine Country,” due to be released in November 2024.
Last year, Animo in Sonoma made Esquire’s list of best new restaurants in America. In 2021, the magazine named Valley Bar + Bottle in Sonoma one of the best bars in America.
Auro, 400 Silverado Trail N., Calistoga. 707-709-2100, auronapavalley.com
Popular Holiday Cocktail Pop-Ups Return to Sonoma County
Hold on to your Santa hat! Miracle, the bedazzling cocktail pop-up at Brewster’s Beer Garden in Petaluma, is back with a bevy of new drinks to satisfy even the grumpiest elf.
Also returning is Sippin’ Santa, a cheeky Tiki-inspired cocktail pop-up at the Flamingo Resort’s Lazeaway Club in Santa Rosa.
Launched in 2014, Miracle was dreamed up by New York bar owner Greg Boehm, with Sippin’ Santa introduced the following year. Together, the pop-ups partner with nearly 200 locations around the world to bring kitschy holiday cheer to the masses.
While Boehm and his hospitality company, Cocktail Kingdom, provide the holiday-themed cocktail recipes and general guidelines, each participating location is responsible for the decorations and setup.
This year, it took the Brewster’s team about three weeks to transform the beer garden into a glittering wonderland, resplendent with twinkly lights, a life-size gingerbread house, a towering Christmas tree and a gift shop selling cocktails to-go and limited-edition glassware.
“This year, we added a ton more lights and expanded the decorations, so I definitely think it’s our best year yet,” said Mike Goebel, owner of Brewster’s, who’s hosting Miracle for the fifth time. “I love seeing the excitement on people’s faces when they enter the space. The energy and magic is infectious and such a joy to be around.”
This year, Miracle at Brewster’s is offering an array of new cocktails, including Rudolph’s Replacement, The Krampus, and Marshmallows & Unicorns. Several fan favorites will also return, like the Christmapolitan and Christmas Cricket.
“Lots of extended families and friends choose to gather with us for their holiday celebrations, which is very gratifying to see,” Goebel said. “Everywhere I look people are smiling, laughing and making memories. It’s truly amazing.”
Joann Spiegel, cocktail developer and vice president of Miracle, said the company solicits feedback from bartenders who poured last year’s cocktails to improve the menu each year.
“Typically, we roll over some of the bestsellers, then balance the menu with new recipes inspired by Christmas traditions from around the world,” Spiegel said. “As our partner list grows, it allows us to dive into the traditions of new states and countries. It’s a well of inspiration that will never run dry.”
This year, Spiegel’s favorite cocktail is the new Carol Barrel, a tropical-inspired sipper with Irish whiskey, banana liqueur, rum, Guinness punch, lime and chocolate bitters.
“Think Irish whiskey kissed with the flavors of a tropical Christmas,” Spiegel said. “As it mellows out over the ice, it gets better with every sip. I could drink it all night long.”
At the Flamingo Resort’s Lazeaway Club, Sippin’ Santa is making its second annual appearance with its own share of kitsch and 10 Tiki-inspired cocktails.
Benson Wang, managing partner at the Flamingo and co-founder/CEO of Palm House Hospitality, said the laid-back vibe of Sippin’ Santa aligns perfectly with the Lazeaway Club’s escapism ethos.
“The tropical-holiday theme is a great fit for the Lazeaway because we’re all about relaxation and recharging,” Wang said. “Sippin’ Santa is a great way for people to be festive, let loose and have fun. You don’t need to plan — you just show up. We need that more than ever in our lives right now with all going on in the world.”
Wang said it took his team about two weeks to transform the space into a twinkling Tiki wonderland with “miles of lights,” while the overall vision was planned months in advance.
A special pupu (appetizer) and cocktail-pairing menu will be available, along with six new cocktails and four returning favorites.
If you really want to jingle all the way, book an overnight stay in the Flamingo’s Santa Suite ($750/night), a festive hotel suite complete with crackling fireplace, twinkly lights, a Christmas tree, priority reservations at Sippin’ Santa and more.
“The whole idea behind the Flamingo is about transporting you to a different space so you can escape and relax,” Wang said. “We want people to come to Sippin’ Santa to celebrate and have fun. There’s a lot of healing and value in just that.”
Miracle at Brewsters Beer Garden: 229 Water St., Petaluma, 707-981-8330, brewstersbeergarden.com. Through Jan. 2.
Sippin’ Santa at Lazeaway Club, Flamingo Resort: 2777 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-545-8530, flamingoresort.com. Through Jan. 8.
10 Free and Cheap Wine Tastings in Sonoma County
A visit to Sonoma Wine Country doesn’t have to break the bank. You can fill your belly at inexpensive restaurants, spend the night at chic and affordable hotels and, perhaps most importantly, enjoy free or cheap wine tastings.
From quaint small town tasting rooms to sprawling wine gardens, Sonoma County offers wine sipping opportunities that will please your palate as well as your pocketbook. Click through the above gallery to discover wineries where you can taste wine for free or cheap ($20 and less).
Tina Caputo, Sarah Doyle and Linda Murphy contributed to this article.
At Healdsburg’s Newest Wine Bar, Sip Excellent Wines Until the Early Hours
Given Healdsburg’s status as the epicenter of Sonoma County’s swankiest food and drink, Evan and Jade Hufford, along with their business partner Ryan Knowles, were surprised the town didn’t have a wine bar. There were plenty of wine tasting rooms, innovative cocktail bars, a live music-fueled pub, and multiple beer gardens. But a wine bar? Not since Bergamot Alley closed in 2018.
“Guests would frequently ask us if there was a wine bar in town, somewhere they could go for a late-night glass of Champagne,” says Evan Hufford, the former wine director at three-Michelin starred SingleThread. “For a long time, the answer was ‘no.’ To be honest, we wanted a wine bar, too, a place we could go to enjoy a glass after work. So we decided to open one ourselves.”
Maison is open until 2 a.m. Friday to Tuesday and caters to a broad range of wine lovers. Old World selections focus on the Champagne and Burgundy regions of France, Germany, and Austria, and appear alongside elegant, nuanced favorites from the California coast. There is also a selection of old-vintage California wines, sourced at auction and from private collectors and sold by the ounce, an approach that gives more people the chance to experience these rare wines.
There’s also a strong selection of sake by the bottle and glass, including several paired with cheese—an unlikely but surprisingly delicious accompaniment. Doralice Handal, formely of the Cheese Shop of Healdsburg, is sourcing cheeses for Maison. Other accompaniments include caviar with potato crisps and crème fraîche, smoked oysters, and salumi.
Evan Hufford acknowledges it will take a little time to fill Maison’s cellar with the 800 to 1,000 wines they hope to carry. For now, the owners are happy to finally welcome guests through the door, especially those in the hospitality industry looking for a post-shift glass of wine. “There are some great bars in town, but none have the wine-forward vibe we were looking for,” Evan says. “We’re excited for Maison to fill that niche.”
210 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg. maisonwinebar.com
Top 5 Sonoma Wineries for Foodies
Many Sonoma County wineries are doing double duty these days, serving food alongside their fine wines. It’s a delicious trend that allows visitors to more fully savor the wines’ versatility with everything from potato chips to salmon en croûte dotted with fresh basil butter.
While wineries can’t serve full meals or let visitors choose which dishes to eat (due to regulations), some pull out all the stops, offering an experience that is pretty close to the real restaurant deal. When you’re feasting on food this good, it’s hard to tell the difference.
Here are a five wineries that go all-out with great dishes to accompany their wines.
Jordan Vineyard & Winery
For much of Jordan’s history, dining has been a members-only affair at the winery’s posh Healdsburg chateau. But with the arrival of new Executive Chef Daniel Beal, everyone can now enjoy a sumptuous meal. It remains an exclusive experience — a recent preview dinner was limited to 18 guests and priced at a whopping $395 per person.
But then, Beal is a big deal; he’s a former sous chef of Chicago’s renowned Alinea and San Francisco’s three-Michelin-starred Atelier Crenn. And his recent five-course French-modernist menu at Jordan was theatrical, paired with wines that included library selections like a 1976 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon (the inaugural vintage).
The winery is now in the process of planning upcoming dining experiences, starting with special dinners such as a Starlight Supper on July 22, and a series of Parisian Pop-Up Dinners in August.
The menu changes with each theme (check the website for details). But the preview dinner offered an idea of what to expect with elaborate dishes like grilled Wagyu with black lentils and smoked aubergine, and golden mushroom risotto with beurre noisette, pine nuts and fresh shaved white truffle. French onion soup was a performance, really, poured tableside in a pottery bowl set with fluttering onion skin leaves.
1474 Alexander Valley Road, Healdsburg, 707-431-5250, jordanwinery.com
Gary Farrell Winery
If you’re lucky enough to score a seat at one of this luxury property’s special dinners, you’re in for a memorable experience.
A newly redesigned dining room captures spectacular vineyard views, and the wines from director of winemaking Theresa Heredia are top-notch (Russian River Valley pinot noir in all its finery, from legendary vineyards such as Rochioli, Rochioli-Allen, Bacigalupi, Hallberg and Olivet Lane).
A recent menu featured fancy dishes, including Maine lobster with fennel, San Francisco halibut in brown butter with red kuri squash and comfy-cozy boeuf bourguignon.
10701 Westside Road, Healdsburg, 707-473-2918, garyfarrellwinery.com
Kivelstadt Cellars and Winegarten/Bloom Carneros
This beautiful, garden-centric destination on Highway 12 is the stuff of Sonoma County dreams: a hip roadhouse setting, good wines on tap, craft cocktails and a creative, expertly crafted menu. Plus, it is so dog-friendly that canines get their own food choices, too, of basmati rice with seasonal veggies and optional toppings like Skuna Bay salmon or Petaluma chicken.
Humans can dig into pleasing, full-flavored plates like smoked and glazed pork belly with grilled hen of the woods mushrooms, pistachio pesto, burrata, radicchio salsa verde and pretty nasturtium flowers; or a delightful fried hand pie stuffed with sweet potato, cremini mushrooms, carrots, potato and butternut squash in housemade butter pastry.
On April 1, Kivelstadt Cellars and Winegarten will change name to Bloom Carneros. With the new name comes a new dinner menu. Stay tuned for more details.
22900 Broadway, Sonoma, 707-938-7001, kivelstadtcellars.com, bloomcarneros.com
Three Sticks
The 1842 Vallejo-Castenada Adobe, a breathtakingly beautiful hacienda-turned-tasting salon, has been painstakingly renovated. It glows with tile floors, hand-painted murals and antique porcelain pieces found on the site.
A new food and wine tasting experience, launched last fall, is equally impressive. Chefs James Nobel and Abri Chavira create a lavish platter to go with fine wines; a recent feast included tomato plum gazpacho of green tomato, green plum, cucumber and pickled peppers, followed by a salad of Liberty Duck prosciutto, creamy La Tur cheese, figs, pomegranate and Marcona almonds. Then it was on to a tart of pâte brisée topped in leek custard and foraged wild mushrooms, and a scoop of kibbeh nayeh (Lebanese nayah) of grass-fed chateaubriand, endive, black garlic aioli and pine nuts.
Note that this is a strictly by-appointment experience ($110), and it helps to call at least a week in advance.
143 West Spain St., Sonoma, 707-996-3328, threestickswines.com.
Lynmar Estate
The 100-acre Sebastopol property is gorgeous, with lavish gardens, quaint barns and views of the Russian River Valley and Laguna de Santa Rosa. Reserve the Lynmar Estate’s Collectors Lunch Pairing ($200) and feast on estate-grown ingredients like fruits, vegetables, herbs and eggs, to complement the cool-climate chardonnay and pinot noir.
Bites from Chef David Frakes feature seasonal signatures such as warm popcorn drizzled in estate olive oil and a flurry of bliss raspberry-viola salt; followed by sandia con tajin or chile-Persian lime dusted watermelon with blistered stone fruit slaw, wonton crisp, shiso vinaigrette and coriander oil. The next course might be grilled garden toast of Nightingale seeded sourdough, herbed chevre, fresh-plucked vegetables and black garlic-date vinaigrette.
To finish: An exquisite chocolate cake garnished with bright magenta, sweet-nutty flavored amaranth plant; or a slab of warm mountain honey tea cake decorated with olive oil ice cream, pistachio dukkah and candied nagano lumquat.
3909 Frei Road, Sebastopol, 707-829-3374, lynmarestate.com.
12 Unique Winery Experiences in Sonoma and Napa Wine Country
Weary, somewhat bleary of the spin-sniff-sip-swallow-or-spit wine tasting experience? These Sonoma and Napa wineries offer a little something extra to pair with your cabernet.
Medieval fortresses and parterre gardens, swimming pools and outdoor art galleries, riding horses and trolleys — there’s plenty of reason to venture outside the tasting room on your next Wine Country trip.
A trip to Germany at Schug Carneros Estate Winery
French, Italian and Spanish accents abound at Sonoma and Napa wineries, so a visit to Walter Schug’s German-styled winery in Carneros is as refreshing as a trocken riesling.
Schug, who died in 2015 at age 80, grew up at Staatsweingut Assmannshausen in Germany’s Rhine Valley. Bit by the winegrowing bug, he eventually made his way to Napa Valley, as winemaker for Joseph Phelps Winery. In 1983, he founded his own winery estate yard in Sonoma Carneros, the production facility and tasting room designed with the peaked roof and timber framing typical in the Rhine. All the original winemaking equipment came from Germany and some of it remains, most strikingly the 669-gallon wood oval aging casks, some of them elaborately carved.
Riesling is no longer in the Schug repertoire, the grape not ideally suited to Sonoma’s sunny climate. Instead, Schug took the pinot noir (spatburgunder) route, adding chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon and other varietals to the mix. His children continue the business, with German-American Johannes Scheid the winemaker.
The Cave Tour & Tasting Experience ($75) includes a walk around the property and through the production area and caves, followed by a seated tasting of current-release and Heritage Reserve wines, served with snacks.
602 Bonneau Road, Sonoma, 707-939-9363, schugwinery.com
Outdoor art gallery at The Donum Estate
Wineries have long been places for visitors to view art and photography on the walls of tasting rooms. Sculptures welcome guests at estate entrances and within sight of tasters.
Now, Donum has taken artistic displays well beyond the usual, dotting its 200-acre Carneros estate with 50-some large-scale, open-air sculptures from artists including Ai Weiwei, Keith Haring, Subodh Gupta and Doug Aitken. Adding to the high-end artistry: the tasting area designed by Danish architect David Thulstrup, known for his interior design of world-class Noma restaurant in Copenhagen.
The basic way to enjoy Donum is to book its Carneros Experience ($95), which includes a walking tour of the estate and tastes of its rosé, chardonnay and pinot noir. The Explore Experience ($175) is a two-hour, all-terrain-vehicle tour of the estate and tasting of wines served with seasonal bites and, of course, views of the artwork.
24500 Ramal Road, Sonoma, 707-732-2200, thedonumestate.com
Living history at Buena Vista Winery
Founded in 1857 by Agoston Haraszthy, Buena Vista is the second-oldest winery in California and is often referred to as the oldest premium winery in the state. (The oldest winery in California is D’Agostini Winery, which was founded in 1856.)
Haraszthy, a vivacious and eccentric pioneer, immigrated from Europe in 1840 in search of the good life. Following in the footsteps of the forty-niners, he found the perfect terroir for “purple gold” and, as the self-proclaimed “Count of Buena Vista,” he established a reputation as an experimental vintner, a shrewd businessman and a flamboyant evangelist. (He died as he had lived — dramatically — in an alligator-infested river in the jungles of Nicaragua.)
The legend of Haraszthy and his winery is now recreated by Buena Vista owner Jean-Charles Boisset, a modern-day version of the eccentric count. The best way to get a taste of the winery’s history (and some wine) is to reserve the Barrel Tasting & Winery Tour ($50), which takes visitors on a stroll through the winery grounds and into the Champagne Cellar for a taste of current release wines. Next, the tour continues into the wine caves where guests can sample wine from the barrel.
18000 Old Winery Road, Sonoma, 800-926-1266, buenavistawinery.com
Horsing around among the vines at Jack London State Park
They say, “don’t drink and drive,” but can you drink and ride?
At Triple Creek Horse Outfit in Glen Ellen, the riding is sensibly taken care of before the drinking. And what a ride it is. Triple Creek offers guided horseback tours at Jack London State Historic Park in the magical Valley of the Moon. The park features fine riding trails through Jack and Charmian London’s Beauty Ranch, which wind around acres of vineyards, through open oak woodlands and under shady groves of majestic redwoods.
All Triple Creek Horse Outfit rides include a complimentary wine tasting at nearby VJB Cellars in Kenwood. The winery also has a gourmet Italian deli and sells wood-fired pizza, gelato and more. Private rides (one hour to two hours) are $145 to $225 per rider. Questions are best addressed via email at triplecrik@gmail.com. Bookings can be made online.
2400 London Ranch Road, Glen Ellen, 707-888-0034, triplecreekhorseoutfit.com
Humming bees and lavender fields at Matanzas Creek Winery
Matanzas Creek Winery in Bennett Valley has been a haven for wine enthusiasts and lavender-lovers since 1991. Guests to the winery can sip sauvignon blanc on a terrace overlooking fields of lilac and amethyst; the soothingly seductive perfumes wafting in the breeze to the hum of bees shifting busily among the blossoms.
The end of June/beginning of July is prime lavender season at Matanzas Creek Winery. The fields are organically farmed and are cut, bundled and hung to barn dry after reaching full bloom. Then the dried blossoms are used in culinary, bath, body and home products sold in the winery’s lavender market.
Tastings (from $35) are by appointment. Picnic tables (with bottle service) can be reserved for two hours ($25 on weekdays; $50 on weekends). Bocce courts can be rented for two hours daily ($20 per person).
6097 Bennett Valley Road, Santa Rosa, 707-528-6464, matanzascreek.com
An all-terrain adventure at Chenoweth Wines
Of the more than 400 wineries that call Sonoma County home, the grand estates have a knack for getting all the attention. But when you make the turn onto the retired tractor-lined driveway at Chenoweth Wines, it’s the unpretentious setting that makes you happy you’ve arrived.
With 800 acres of land, from redwoods to vineyards, the Chenoweth estate offers plenty to see. But it’s how you get to see it — buckled into an all-terrain vehicle — that adds even more bragging rights to a busy day of wine tasting.
ATV tours ($125 per person) take about 1 1/2 hours and traverse the Chenoweth ranch, redwood grove and vineyards and make stops for wine tasting outdoors. At tour’s end, guests can stay and enjoy their own picnic in the redwood grove. Tours are limited to eight guests and can be booked by calling 707-829-3367 or emailing joinus@chenowethwines.com.
5550 Harrison Grade Road, Sebastopol, 707-331-2734, chenowethwines.com
A taste of history at Three Sticks Wines
The historic Vallejo-Casteñada Adobe is the longest occupied residence in Sonoma and one of the town’s few remaining buildings from California’s Mexican period.
Constructed in 1842 by Captain Salvador Vallejo (the infamous brother of General Mariano Vallejo), the adobe has been carefully restored by Three Sticks owners Bill and Eva Price, who now house a private tasting room for their Three Sticks wine label in the historic building.
Visitors can tour the adobe and take in its history while tasting a flight of pinots and chardonnays ($65) or finish the experience with a food and wine pairing prepared in partnership with the celebrated chefs at El Dorado Kitchen.
New this season is the Oysters & Chardonnay pairing ($95) that includes a flight of three single vineyard chardonnays and half a dozen oysters on the half shell (three types of oysters). Guests get to learn about terroir (how environmental factors like soil, topography and climate impact the wine) and merroir (how the bivalves’ marine surroundings influence their flavor).
143 W. Spain St., Sonoma, 707-996-3328, threestickswines.com
Cabernet on a cable car, Sonoma Valley Wine Trolley
Lack a designated driver? Think limousine tours are for tourists? Biking and wining a precarious pair? The Sonoma Valley Wine Trolley might just be what you’re looking for.
Built from the blueprints of an 1890s San Francisco cable car, the trolley safely trundles wine enthusiasts on a six-hour ride through Sonoma Valley.
The journey begins at Sonoma Plaza and then makes three stops at local wineries for private tasting experiences (the stops change with the seasons and include wineries such as Ravenswood, Imagery Estate, Paradise Ridge, Gloria Ferrer and B.R. Cohn).
Included in the package is a guide, a boxed lunch, views of the bucolic Wine Country landscape and plenty of bottled water. Daily Sonoma tours begin at 10:15 a.m. and end at 4:30 p.m. The tour is $125 and reservations can be made online. Tasting fees at the wineries range from $30 to $40 per person.
Wine wonderland at Francis Ford Coppola Winery
Bringing the kids on a wine tasting trip may not seem the best of ideas, that is unless you are destined for Francis Ford Coppola’s winery.
The famous filmmaker’s Geyserville estate is a wonderland with wine: film memorabilia (including Don Corleone’s desk from “The Godfather”) and Oscars are on display; its two swimming pools (3,600 square feet in total) are surrounded by chaise lounges, cabanas and bocce courts; and there is always plenty of wine for the adults.
Seated tastings on the terrace are $40. Bocce courts can be reserved 11 a.m., 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. Thursday-Monday. ($50 per person, plus tax; available for parties of eight to 24 guests).
Cabana reservations, which is the only way to access the pool, become available on the winery’s website in late spring. (The pool is typically open from mid-June to early October.) It is a popular place to be during summer in Wine Country, so make sure to make your cabana reservations early.
300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville, 707-857-1400, thefamilycoppola.com
Tulips and trees at Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery
Ever experienced a tulip emergency? Healdsburg’s Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery has a tulip hotline set up in the late winter/early spring months for fans eager not to miss the winery’s 10,000 tulips in bloom.
The five-acre winery gardens also feature over 2,000 species of trees and shrubs, a variety of perennials and annuals (the tulips and daffodils take center stage in the spring), waterfalls that flow into fish-filled ponds and bronze sculptures from renowned artists Dennis Smith, Douglas Van Howd and Jane DeDecker.
The Italian/French parterre gardens accentuate classic geometric shapes. The enclosed garden at the front of Villa Fiore (the estate winery) has a parklike setting, its design more relaxed and its emphasis on color and texture.
Take in views of the gardens and surrounding vineyards from the winery’s Sycamore Grove terrace during the Wine & Brunch experience (10:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Sundays; $85 per person).
The brunch includes a flight of reserve wines paired with a seasonal, Italian-inspired menu with dishes such as Prosciutto Benedict with roasted potato and estate garden greens; Yannis Sausage & Farm Fresh Egg Strata topped with Valley Ford Estero Gold Cheese; and TCHO Dark Chocolate Panna Cotta for dessert. Advance reservations and prepayments are required (reservations are refundable up to 72 hours prior to visit).
8761 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-6700, ferrari-carano.com
Portal to the middle ages at Castello di Amorosa
It’s no surprise that some refer to Dario Sattui, a fourth generation vintner and the man behind Castello di Amorosa, as a modern-day Don Quixote.
Some 20 years ago, Sattui began a 15-year quest to build a medieval-style Tuscan castle in Napa Valley as a place to showcase his wines. The result: a 107-room, eight-level, 121,000-square-foot castle complete with drawbridge, secret passageways, torture chamber and tasting rooms.
Seated and standing tastings ($60 and $50) give visitors access to the two main levels of the castle via a self-guided tour (strategically posted QR codes make it easy to learn about the winery at your own pace).
The Diamond Estate Tour & Reserve Wine Tasting ($70) and the Cheese & Charcuterie Wine Pairing Tour ($85) include guided tours that take visitors through the two main levels and also into the production area, underground cellars, torture chamber and armory. Reservations required for all tastings.
4045 St Helena Highway, Calistoga, 707-967-6272, castellodiamorosa.com
Gondola glides to the tune of old English bells at Sterling Vineyards
A one-of-a-kind aerial tram glides you on a 360-degree scenic ride up a tree-covered hill to the winery. Debarking at the summit, visitors can then begin to explore the chalk-white stuccoed, many-verandaed winery. Its architectural inspiration? The Greek villages on the island of Mykonos where Sterling founder, Peter Newton, once lived.
High in the towers at Sterling Vineyards are eight bells that once hung in London’s Church of St. Dunstan’s-in-the-East. When the Anglican church, founded in the Saxon 10th century, was badly damaged by the Great Fire of 1666, it was repaired and a Christopher Wren steeple added. (St. Dunstan’s was much later mortally damaged during the London Blitz in 1941.)
The bells found their way to Calistoga in the 1970s and soon visitors can continue to enjoy the timelessness of their reverberations at Sterling Vineyards.
1111 W. Dunaweal Lane, Calistoga, 800-726-6136, sterlingvineyards.com
Linda Murphy and Dana Rebmann contributed to this article.
Augie’s French Bistro in Santa Rosa Is Last Restaurant for Starks. No, Really
The name of Mark and Terri Starks’ new restaurant — Augie’s — tells you a lot about the Santa Rosa French bistro.
It’s a cheeky reference to Auguste Escoffier, the French chef and restaurateur considered the father of modern French cuisine. You can thank him for standardizing recipes once served to kings and aristocrats, for creating a military-like structure for kitchen staff and for cleaning up (literally) unsanitary food preparation.
His distinguished 19th-century legacy casts a godlike shadow over the culinary community. But the esteemed Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur Auguste Escoffier isn’t really a guy I’d want to crack a cold one with. But Augie? He spikes the office party punch with Beaujolais Nouveau and likes to hug things out.
That is to say, Augie’s isn’t about fiddly French food, lifted pinkies and meticulous plating. It’s about hearty onion soup, braised boeuf Bourguignon with creamy potatoes and bowls of steaming mussels swimming in creamy Dijon sauce that’s begging to be soaked up with a crusty baguette. Augie’s is a truffle-buttered kiss, where the Champagne starts flowing at 3 p.m. and the skinny fries come in a gold-handled rondeau pan because they can.
The Starks purposefully pay homage to the see-and-be-seen, three-martini lunch heyday of Portofino, when 535 Fourth St. was a meetup spot for young singles and business wheeling and dealing. The Starks want people to congregate, hang out and grab an aperitif downtown like they used to do. With Augie’s, their eighth and likely final restaurant (others include Stark’s Steak Seafood, Bird & The Bottle, Grossman’s and Willi’s Wine Bar), they are plunging in to another effort to reinvigorate downtown Santa Rosa.
To step inside is to leave Santa Rosa behind and enter a timeless Parisian moodscape. The interior, which many will remember from Portofino (which closed in 2013), is long and narrow, with few windows. But the result is a cozy, nestlike atmosphere. Metallic butterfly wallpaper climbs the stairs to a low balcony level, giving the east wall a tasteful gaudiness with a pinch of humor. Bulbous gold beehive lights cast a warm glow, and a zinc-topped bar and apron-clad servers round out the Gallic vibe. Look around for unexpected decor (like the crane wallpaper and royal dog paintings) from Terri Stark.
With its welcoming atmosphere, classic-yet-approachable French cuisine and excellent service, we think Escoffier and Augie would both approve of this new spot.
Best bets
Warm red onion “tarte Tatin,” $16: Just, yes. A lovely whirl of red onion slices topped with whipped Boursin cheese is the perfect appetizer. I wish it was on the happy-hour menu in a simpler form. Perfection.
Liberty Farms duck liver terrine, $18: I grew up on Oscar Meyer Braunschweiger sandwiches that tasted like pennies, so something as creamy and luscious as this silky terrine has me swooning. Liver isn’t for everyone, but this version could be. Sweet onion fig marmalade is the perfect partner. A shout out to the Pate De Campagna, $17, a chunky, homeier cousin of the terrine.
Steak tartare, $21: Diced, raw filet mignon mixed with capers, shallots and egg served as a single quenelle with brioche toast. If you like tartare, this is a great version. If you’re looking for an appetizer that’s a little more middle-of-the-road, try the smoked salmon ($17) or onion soup gratinee ($18).
Salad Lyonnaise, $17: You’ll find this mix of bitter frisee and chicory the optimal bedding for bacon vinaigrette, lardons (thick chunks of bacon), croutons and a sunny-side-up egg meant to drip into the whole mess. So French.
Black truffle butter escargots, $18: Mark Stark is wild about his escargot menu. I am, too. Apparently, I ate an entire order of escargot when I was 5 and didn’t ask what it was until I was done, and it didn’t faze me a bit. Gourmand-in-training. I like escargot simple, with just garlic and butter, but the slightly scary-looking yet absolutely delicious black truffle butter version is my favorite.
Beef cheek Bourguignon, $38: Julia Child brought this dish — a simple braised beef with vegetables — to American palates, but it’s rare to find a good version at a restaurant. This is that unicorn dish that’s homey and satisfying but something far too labor-intensive to make at home. A high point of our meal.
Liberty Farms duck confit, $29: This entree disappeared from our table with only a spinning dish left behind. Two meaty legs and thighs with crisp skin and soft, juicy meat that only a confit can produce. Served with roasted figs and a sublime pan sauce.
Prime burger royale, $23: The French do not make good hamburgers. Augie’s has the burger game down pat, adding very French Comte cheese, truffle mayonnaise and onion marmalade on a soft brioche bun. Served with skinny fries (or pomme frites if you’re classy).
Floating Islands, $14: Ignore the curious presentation of poached egg white meringue floating atop a lake of Grand Marnier spiked Crème Angliase. It’s not especially pretty, but it’s Julia Childs’ favorite dessert for a reason.
Happy Hour, 3 to 5 p.m.: The menu has been updated to include a wildly delicious crepe! Value-priced drinks ($7) like the Vesper (gin, vodka and Lillet Blanc) and French 75 (gin, lemon and sparkling wine) are tasty little after-work mood-lifters. But the opening happy-hour dishes — butter and ham open-faced tartine, Oeufs Mayonnaise (a take on deviled eggs, but with more mustard flavor), and herb and Gruyere gougeres are a little too cerebral for the average happy-hour crowd. You can order the prime burger royale (still $23 at happy hour), which is outstanding and filling.
535 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-531-4400, augiesfrench.com. Open 5-9 p.m. for dinner Wednesday to Sunday. Reservations are highly recommended.
25 Magical Holiday Experiences in Sonoma County
It may not snow in Sonoma County, but the region becomes its own special winter wonderland as the holidays approach. There are plenty of delicious dishes, festive drinks and wondrous events to create a warm, cozy and joyful atmosphere.
As we count down to Christmas, here are more than 25 magical things to experience this holiday season.
Now through December
Shop local: Swap the dreaded mid-December mall experience for a wholesome outdoors event. At Holidays Along the Farm Trails (until Jan. 1), buy gifts (often in the form of delicious artisan foods) or make your own at DIY workshops. You can also cut your own tree and, best of all, greet the farm animals.
Visit Healdsburg hotels for the holidays: A number of hotels and other businesses in Healdsburg are participating in the city’s Season to Sparkle initiative presenting various themed events, activities and special offers, now through Dec. 30. Montage Healdsburg will have both Christmas tree and Hanukkah menorah lightings as well as a mistletoe display for photo ops. Hotel Healdsburg will offer complimentary gift wrapping for guests and a Holiday Glow Facial at its spa.
Nov. 21 – Dec. 23
Immerse yourself in holiday decor: Come Christmastime, Brewsters Beer Garden in Petaluma transforms into Miracle at Brewsters, with kitschy decor paired with holiday dishes and drinks (opens Nov. 21). 229 Water St., Petaluma, 707-981-8330, brewstersbeergarden.com
Nov. 23 – Jan. 6
Tiki holiday vibes: The Flamingo Resort in Santa Rosa also hosts a special holiday cocktail pop-up,”Sippin’ Santa” that combines Christmas and tiki, with tropical cocktails and a selection of seasonal bites (from Nov. 23 through Jan. 6). 2777 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-545-8530, flamingoresort.com
Nov. 28
Make the season bright: Downtown Santa Rosa is kicking off the holiday season with its annual Winter Lights tree lighting celebration from 4-7 p.m., Nov. 28, at Old Courthouse Square. The free event, presented by the Santa Rosa Metro Chamber, will include a “Letters to Santa” station, photos opportunities with Santa and Snoopy, and performances by School of Rock Santa Rosa, Santa Rosa Ballet and Transcendence Theatre Company. Plus, the Santa Rosa Growlers will be on hand to spread holiday cheer. Old Courthouse Square, 600 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, santarosametrochamber.com
Nov. 28-30
See upscale gingerbread houses: It wouldn’t be Christmas without gingerbread. But for some, a cookie is not enough. At Hotel Petaluma’s 9th annual Gingerbread Showcase (Nov. 28-30), you’ll see creations that replicate historic Petaluma mansions and other impressive buildings. Plus, a 12-foot evergreen towers in the hotel’s courtyard for added Christmas cheer. 205 Kentucky St., Petaluma, 707-559-3393, hotelpetaluma.com
Nov. 28-30, Dec. 6-28 weekends
Enjoy an old-fashioned French holiday spectacle: Le Cirque de Bohème has entertained adults and children for the past 12 holiday seasons. This year, the show will feature magicians, trapeze artists, contortionists, acrobats, aerial duos and dancers, who will bring to life a story of a mysterious knight in medieval Europe. Nov. 28-30 and Saturdays and Sundays from Dec. 6-28. 23570 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, cirquedeboheme.org
Nov. 28 – Dec. 31
Sip, savor and shop: Holidays in Healdsburg (daily from Nov. 28 to Dec. 31) is a cherished seasonal tradition. During a four-hour guided tour, enjoy the Christmas-tree-lit plaza, colorful street decorations, festive window displays and carolers, then savor seasonal bites and sip wines at boutique wineries and restaurants. $129 per person. Meet at Healdsburg Plaza, Healdsburg, 707-758-4287, winecountrywalkingtours.com
Nov. 29 – Dec. 21
Say hello to Santa: Santa certainly gets around. This year, he’ll ride the Napa Valley Wine Train, breakfast at Healdsburg’s Costeaux French Bakery every Saturday in December and sail along the Petaluma River for photos and activities (Nov. 29). Santa will also take pictures with community members at various places, such as Montgomery Village in Santa Rosa (weekends from Nov. 29 to Dec. 21) and Larson Family Winery in Sonoma (Dec. 6-7).
Dec. 5
Have a very merry Healdsburg Christmas: Join the city of Healdsburg for its annual Merry Healdsburg Tree Lighting Celebration from 5-9 p.m., Dec. 5, on the Healdsburg Plaza. The event will include complimentary carriage rides through downtown, photo ops with Santa, festive live music performances, and holiday arts and crafts for children. There will also be a holiday market held during the celebration featuring local vendors selling everything from food and drinks to jewelry and home goods. Healdsburg Plaza, healdsburg.gov
Attend a Winter Festival up north: Further north, the city of Cloverdale will host its Winter Festival & Tree Lighting Celebration from 5-8 p.m., Dec. 5, at the downtown Plaza. In addition to the tree lighting ceremony, there will be live music, food and drink, cookie decorating, photo ops with Santa, a holiday movie on Broad Street and a candlelit holiday shopping stroll featuring local vendors. Cloverdale Plaza, cloverdalechamber.com
Dec. 5-7
See Snoopy on ice: For a larger indoor rink, head to Snoopy’s Home Ice. Morning, midday and evening public skating sessions are available, and there will be outdoor holiday variety shows with professional figure skaters, dancers and a special appearance from Snoopy from Dec. 5-7. 1667 W Steele Lane, Santa Rosa, 707-546-7147, snoopyshomeice.com
Dec. 6-7
Enjoy an old-school holiday open house: Luther Burbank Home & Gardens in Santa Rosa will be decked out in old-fashioned holiday finery for its 45th annual Holiday Open House 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Dec. 6-7. Shop for unique gifts, plants, holiday decor and persimmon bread in the gift shop, and enjoy games and activities for children and homemade cookies in the greenhouse for all ages. 204 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-524-5445, lutherburbank.org
Dec. 7, 14, 21 and 23
Say Feliz Navidad, God Jul or Joyeux Noël: Find holiday foods from around the world at Sonoma County’s restaurants and bakeries. Tamales Maná makes our favorite steamed corn cakes, Sarmentine has bûche de Noël, and Stockhome serves a traditional Swedish julbord and glögg (from Dec. 7, 14, 21 and 23).
Dec. 10 – Jan. 6
Lace up those skates: There may not be snow, but icy winter fun has arrived in Petaluma with the Luma Ice skating rink at the Petaluma Fairgrounds, open Dec. 10 through Jan. 6. 175 Fairgrounds Drive, Petaluma, 707-778-4380, lumaice.com
Dec. 12
Bake and break bread: At the state-of-the-art Artisan Baking Center in Petaluma, have some flour-filled fun during classes like whole grain bread-baking (Dec. 12), where baking instructor Michael Kalanty will teach how to bake rustic boules, multigrain rolls and seedy sandwich bread. Located in Keith Giusto Bakery Supply, 1120 Holm Road, Petaluma, 707-765-5745, centralmilling.com/artisan-baking-center
Be dazzled by a Mexican Posada: The 19th annual Posada Navideña by Calidanza Dance Company (6:30 p.m., Dec. 12) takes the audience to various regions of Mexico, showcasing holiday festivities and traditions through vibrant costumes, dynamic choreography and joyful music. 50 Mark West Springs Road, Santa Rosa, 707-546-3600, lutherburbankcenter.org
Dec. 13
Watch a lighted boat parade: One of the most charming holiday parades around will glide gracefully down the Petaluma River from 6-8 p.m. on Dec. 13 at the Petaluma Turning Basin. Free to attend. Petaluma Turning Basin, 12 C St., Petaluma, petalumadowntown.com/lighted-boat-parade
For more luminous cheer, check out the county’s whimsical winter light parades. From decorated sofas and bikes to tractors and boats, the brilliantly lit spectacles are a sight to see.
Dec. 13-19
Have a musical Christmas: The Green Music Center in Rohnert Park is putting on a variety of holiday performances this season. The Sonoma Bach Choir presents its 14th annual Early Music Christmas show featuring 17th century music from three European countries from Dec. 13-14; Soweto Gospel Choir performs South African freedom songs, traditional spirituals and holiday favorites on Dec. 13; and Broadway star Jessica Vosk performs holiday hits from her album “Sleigh” on Dec. 19.
Dec. 18-21
Get cracking: Sonoma County offers (at least) two performances of Tchaikovsky’s Nutcracker this holiday season. Luther Burbank Center for the Arts presents Nutcracker! Magical Christmas Ballet featuring gold-medalist performers from around the world on Dec. 18. Dance Evolution Studios (formerly Santa Rosa Dance Theater) presents its rendition at Spreckels Performing Arts Center from Dec. 19-21.
Make the Yuletide gay: The acclaimed San Francisco Gay Men’s Chorus returns to Sonoma County with a “Holiday Spectacular” (Dec. 21), a rollicking performance of zany holiday antics, traditional carols and new surprises. Green Music Center, 1801 E. Cotati Ave., Rohnert Park, 707-664-4246, gmc.sonoma.edu
Throughout the season
Spread holiday cheer: ’Tis the giving season. Help those in need: feed the hungry at the Redwood Empire Food Bank, volunteer at Committee on the Shelterless (COTS) and support seniors in Sonoma County through the Council on Aging. More volunteer opportunities here.
Crack on in Healdsburg: At Costeaux French Bakery in Healdsburg, see rows of whimsical, militarily-precise nutcrackers stand ready for inspection. Their ranks are arrayed on shelves installed just for the holidays and spill over into every nook and cranny of the bakery. 417 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-1913, costeaux.com
Hear the fireplace roar: Several local restaurants serve up ember-enhanced meals and drinks sure to get you into the holiday spirit. A few favorites include Catelli’s in Geyserville, Stark’s Steak & Seafood in Santa Rosa, and Taste of Tea in Healdsburg.
Warm up with a hot drink: While we’re on the topic of staying warm, how about a hot drink with a spoonful of childhood nostalgia? At Snoopy’s Home Ice in Santa Rosa, order a Peppermint Patty hot chocolate at the The Warm Puppy Café. For a more grown-up version, try the Aztec Mocha with double espresso, Valrhona chocolate and chiles at Flying Goat Coffee in Healdsburg.
Get sparkling: For some celebratory bubbles, head to SIGH Champagne bar in Sonoma. No reservations needed, and they offer a flight of three sparklers. They also serve draft beer, regular wine and non-alcoholic beverages, as well as snack-sized bites, both savory and sweet. And here are more sparkling wineries to visit.
After a sip of bubbly, the Sonoma Plaza offers holiday cheer and attractions for history buffs, from the Sonoma Mission to the barracks and Toscano Hotel, all within two blocks. There’s a big parking lot behind the barracks on First Street East.
See a Christmas card church: Bodega’s Saint Teresa of Avila looks like something out of an old-fashioned Christmas card during the holidays. Ansel Adams immortalized the church in a photograph and it was famously featured in Alfred Hitchcock’s The Birds. 17242 Bodega Highway, Bodega
Take a quiet winter hike: Shady forest groves are a respite from the flurry of the holiday season. Stillwater Cove Regional Park, a hidden gem on the coast in Jenner, features 3 miles of trails surrounded by lush ferns and towering redwoods.
Where to Eat, Drink, Stay and Play in Napa Valley This Holiday Season
The holiday season has arrived in Napa Valley. This year, you can rent your own igloo, ride the wine train with Santa, sip holiday tea in a charming Victorian estate, and visit Wine Girl Wonderland. Click through the gallery above for details on where to get festive in Napa Valley.