We Found One Mean Tagine in Healdsburg

Spoonbar’s Duck Tagine. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

A Moroccan Julep, made with the North African country’s beloved mint tea, cinnamon, lime and whiskey, sets the mood for Spoonbar’s weekly Moroccan night.

The three-course prix-fixe meal ($39, Thursdays only) at the Healdsburg restaurant is a culinary journey to the spice-laden land of clay tagines, preserved lemons and perfumed couscous. Inspired by Healdsburg Hotel General Manager Aziz Zhari’s homeland, the menu is executed beautifully with a summery first course of red and yellow peppers, strips of zucchini and eggplant topped with Provençal herbs, crisp croutons and nibs of goat cheese.

Moroccan chicken at Spoonbar in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Moroccan chicken at Spoonbar in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

A thigh and breast of crispy-skin chicken is a rare example of poultry perfection, seasoned with piquant herbs and bits of preserved lemon atop piles of savory couscous. Typical of Moroccan cuisine, the dish has a mix of sweet and savory, with cherry tomatoes, almonds and golden raisins studding Middle Eastern semolina pasta.

The star, however, is a tagine (a domed clay pot) filled with duck leg, apricots and soft chickpeas in a turmeric and ginger bath. It’s stomp-your-feet-and-lift-a-hand-to-heaven good. Meskouta cake, a Moroccan orange cake, is almost too generous in its serving (take some home for breakfast). To end the meal, you get a soothing cup of mint tea as fragrant as a sultan’s garden.

219 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-7222, spooonbar.com. Reservations recommended.

7 Outstanding Napa Valley Wineries for Outdoor Tastings

Summer may be coming to a close, but winery patio season is just heating up in Napa Valley. The list of scenic outdoor spaces to sip and swirl is long, but we’ve picked a few favorites for al fresco wine tastings. Click through the above gallery for all the details. Did we miss one of your favorites? (We know, there are so many great choices!) Tell us all about them in the comments below.

Plant-Based Bakery in Petaluma Is Closing After ‘A Tough Summer’

Assorted vegan rolls from Magdelena’s Savories & Sweets are top row left to right: 1) a Vegor vegan with “Just Egg”, Garlic, Cheese, Sweet Earth vegan bacon roll, 2) a Lemon roll with lemon frosting, 3) a Golden Mylk cinnamon roll with vegan chai cream cheese frosting, and bottom row left to right, 4) a Soyrizo, Pickled jalapeño, cheese & cilantro roll, 5) a Classic Cinnamon roll with vegan cream cheese frosting, 6) a Chocolate roll with Espresso frosting. (Photo by Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)

Plant-based bakery Magdelena’s Savories and Sweets in Petaluma is closing after 18 months in business.

Greta Canton said a trifecta of issues forced her to shutter the north Petaluma shop, including the effect of ongoing roadwork in front of her site, a lack of foot traffic and financial pressures she couldn’t overcome.

“It’s heartbreaking, but it’s just been a tough summer,” she said, noting a 15% decrease in sales from last year and skyrocketing ingredient prices.

Like many restaurants, she tried raising prices to counter costs and invested her own limited capital, but ultimately couldn’t make the numbers pencil out. Running the kitchen, serving customers and managing finances was more than she could do without a business partner.

“I was unable to support the business and extract my living expenses. I wish it were different. I wish there was more time to let the seed of Magdelena’s grow,” Canton said to fans on social media.

Though sticky cinnamon rolls, crispy pizza and even “burgers” made without animal products, including butter, eggs, milk and meat, were confusing to some customers, Canton is passionate about stretching the boundaries of what plant-based comfort food could look, and more importantly, taste like.

Canton said she still believes vegan and vegetarian restaurants have a bright future.

“Eating with sustainability and passion is possible, but for me, it wasn’t the right time,” she said. Canton noted Healdsburg’s Second Story at Little Saint, an entirely vegan restaurant helmed by Chef Stu Stalker of the acclaimed Noma restaurant in Denmark.

Like many restaurateurs, she faced ongoing increases in raw materials and slower summer business this year, something that’s been a common complaint in the industry.

“Many companies looked at their performance from (2022) in a year that was above average, and that was an anomaly,” said Tim Zahner, executive director of the Sonoma Valley Visitors Bureau. Though he couldn’t speak directly to Canton’s closure, he said that many in the hospitality industry faced an economically challenging summer after pent-up demand for travel and tourism to Sonoma County last year boosted the economy.

Other Sonoma County restaurants that have closed in 2023 include Tips Roadside in Kenwood, Sebastopol’s Flavor Bistro, Seafood & Eat in Windsor, Down to Earth Cafe in Cotati, Bodega Bay’s Lucas Wharf, Toad in the Hole in Santa Rosa and Amy’s Wicked Slush in Healdsburg.

“Even though we can’t make it financially, I am gratified that we were loved,” Canton said. The cafe will close permanently on Sept. 29.

Correction: A previous version of this article said that Magdelena’s Savories and Sweets in Petaluma is the only exclusively plant-based bakery in Sonoma County. Muir’s Tea Room in Sebastopol also offers plant-based baked goods and multiple bakeries throughout the county sell both conventional and plant-based food.

The Founder of Decorist Is Selling Her Sonoma Home for $12.5 Million

Gretchen Hansen, CEO and founder of Decorist, has listed her Sonoma home for sale. For $12.5 million, the modernist dwelling, on 6.5 acres, offers truly world class views from Sonoma Valley to Mt. Diablo and San Francisco. (Provided by Caroline Sebastiani / Sotheby’s International Realty)
Gretchen Hansen, CEO and founder of Decorist, has listed her Sonoma home for sale. For $12.5 million, the modernist dwelling, on 6.5 acres, offers truly world class views from Sonoma Valley to Mt. Diablo and San Francisco. (Provided by Caroline Sebastiani / Sotheby’s International Realty)

Gretchen Hansen, CEO and founder of Decorist, is selling her Sonoma home for $12.5 million. The property, which is situated on 6.5 acres, offers sweeping views of Mount Diablo, San Pablo Bay and the San Francisco skyline on a clear day.

The 6,400-square-foot home, which has six bedrooms and six bathrooms, features a stone exterior with rounded corners and modernist style that blends with the natural setting. Oak trees surround the property and serve as art inside the home, thanks to the placement of windows. The kitchen and bathrooms feature picture windows where one might otherwise find cabinets or vanities.

High ceilings in the bedroom and living room create a sense of grandness, but it’s the inspired design touches throughout that really make the home stand out. The use of white oak and marble throughout offers a look that’s equal parts elegant and understated. Sumptuous furnishings include a wood-root bench, tree-trunk slice stools and organically-shaped armchairs, all in shades of beiges, whites and slates.

Other amenities include a 1,500-bottle wine cellar, a pool and spa, an outdoor kitchen, a guesthouse and a bocce ball court. Click through the above gallery for a peek inside the home.

For more information about this property, contact listing agent Carol Sebastiani, 415-290-3123, or Kristie Eddy, 949-577-1717,  Sotheby’s International Realty – Wine Country – Sonoma Brokerage, 793 Broadway, Sonoma, sotheybysrealty.com, carolsebastiani.com

California-Meets-Kentucky at Marvin’s BBQ & Deli in Sebastopol

A trio of BBQ, ribs, chicken and tri-tip with sides of cole slaw, macaroni salad and baked beans from Marvin’s BBQ and Deli Wednesday, August 30, 2023 in Sebastopol. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

There are two ways you can know you’ve arrived at Marvin’s BBQ & Deli in Sebastopol.

The first is you’ll smell the fragrance of smoke and meat wafting through the parking lot.

The second is you’ll see Marvin himself, slicing a juicy tri-tip behind the counter and sporting hot pink stripes through his beard. His unmistakable silhouette is on a giant sign outside.

Marvin’s is part sandwich deli, part barbecue restaurant and part bottle shop. Operating out of a former liquor store that he and business partner Vikram “Sunny” Badhan (owner of Willibees Wine & Spirits in Santa Rosa) remodeled over the past year, it’s also very Marvin.

Marvin Mckinzy has spent a lifetime loving and learning the art of barbecue, starting with his stepfather’s backyard grill in Kentucky. As a kid, he was encouraged to help with steaks and simple meaty fare, instilling in him a perfectionist passion for barbecue.

Like golf, barbecue is a lifestyle rather than an accomplishment, with flavors constantly being obsessed over, tweaked and improved. You’ve never really mastered it.

“I’m from the South. But in California, I’ve learned a lot of things. I call my style ‘blended barbecue,’ going back and forth with different things,” he said.

Mckinzy spent years playing around with recipes before parlaying his passion into a job making barbecue for Oliver’s Markets. That’s where tri-tip — which initially became popular in California — came into the picture for Mckinzy.

“I started getting really serious (about barbecue) when I started working there. When I started in Windsor, they were doing maybe 500 orders each weekend, and within a year, they were doing 2,000 a weekend,” Mckinzy said proudly.

Later, Mckinzy took a job at Lowe’s to support his fledgling barbecue catering business, but when he met Badhan, things finally got real.

“Sunny asked me what I was doing catering and said there was no money in it. He said, ‘When you’re serious, let me know,’” Mckinzy said of his partnership with Badhan.

After nearly a year of planning and renovations, Marvin’s BBQ & Deli opened in early July, offering Mckinzy’s signature tri-tip, pork ribs, pulled pork and barbecued chicken. His baked beans, inspired by his stepfather’s recipe, are sweet, smoky perfection. He uses Short Momma’s Barbecue Sauce, made in Santa Rosa.

Mckinzy continues to add menu items like jalapeño cornbread and whiskey pecan, apple and peach pies made by a local baker.

And if you see a police car or fire truck in the parking lot, don’t panic. The local first responders are currently competing to see who can eat the most barbecue. So far, the firefighters are winning, but Mckinzy is still holding out hope for the police.

“It’s a little friendly competition,” Mckinzy said. “I like to keep things exciting.”

A plate with one meat and two sides (coleslaw, potato salad, beans or a green salad) is $13.99; two types of meat and two sides are $19.99. Mckinzy hopes to add macaroni and cheese and collard greens soon, and eventually, pig roasts.

Marvin’s BBQ & Deli is open 11:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday. They may close earlier if they’re sold out for the day. 495 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-861-9623 and at Instagram.com/marvinsbbqdeli

A Drink with a View: 6 Rooftop Bars in Sonoma and Napa

For an elevated Wine Country experience, pair drinks and nibbles with Sonoma and Napa views at one of these six rooftop bars. Click through the gallery for details.  

Jess Lander and Heather Irwin contributed to this article. 

‘Top Chef Masters’ Winner Revamps Menu at Nick’s Cove in Marshall

Oysters, mac n cheese at Nick’s Cove in Marshall. (Adahlia Cole)

Nick’s Cove in Marshall is getting a significant upgrade with the help of “Top Chef Masters” winner Chris Cosentino revamping its menu.

The San Francisco chef who envisioned groundbreaking restaurants like Cockscomb and Incanto (known for its celebration of offal) is going all in on seafood, influenced by his childhood in Rhode Island.

The Nick’s Cove menu isn’t wildly different but includes some new takes on classics, such as a lobster roll with sea urchin aioli; Rhode Island clam chowder (a more brothy version of its cousin, the creamy New England, which is also available); “fries with eyes” (whole fried smelt), steak frites with Point Reyes blue cheese butter; and smoked black cod dip with fried saltines.

Fish and chips, cioppino, the Stemple Creek burger and classic Louis salad remain, plus a selection of raw and barbecued oysters. Fern Bar’s Sam Levy has upgraded the cocktail menu. 23240 Highway 1, Marshall, 415-663-1033.

‘California Meets Clam Shack’ at Valley Swim Club in Sonoma

Pink Shrimp Roll from Valley Bar + Bottle on the Sonoma square. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Sonoma seafood restaurant Valley Swim Club is now open. Check out the full review here.

Valley Swim Club doesn’t have a pool, and your swimsuit probably isn’t appropriate anyhow for the forthcoming seafood restaurant from the people behind Sonoma’s Valley Bar + Bottle Shop.

The roadhouse restaurant that’s replacing Delicious Dish in Sonoma will be a “California meets New England clam shack,” according to co-owner Lauren Feldman.

Slated to open in the coming weeks, the charming outdoor space will have an all-day menu of fried fish sandwiches, a poke bowl, salads, chowder and plenty of local seafood (and hopefully, some clams, too). The concept is inspired by trips Feldman and her co-owners, Tanner Walle, Emma Lipp and Steph Reagor, made to the East Coast and Bodega Bay.

Valley restaurant in Sonoma
Salad from Valley Bar + Bottle in Sonoma. (Eileen Roche/For Sonoma Magazine)

“Swim Club references classic poolside, seaside and roadside traditions, as well as the spirit that imbues them. Swim Club exists where New England flavors, surf aesthetics and late ’60s California Naturalism intersect,” says the restaurant’s website.

In addition to filling Sonoma’s need for a seafood-focused restaurant, Feldman said, wildly fluctuating prices for chicken, eggs and other meat led the team toward sustainable local seafood with more stable costs.

“We’ve had such good luck with our seafood purveyors,” she said.

The restaurant also will have vegetarian, gluten-free and vegan dishes and wine pairings focused on their selection of natural wines.

“Fried food is so good with natural wines,” she said.

The roadside restaurant on the outskirts of town replaces Delicious Dish, whose owners, Lauren and Charles Cotner, fought their way through the pandemic but decided to go back to catering after selling the business.

Valley Swim Club will be located at 18709 Arnold Drive. Hours are slated to be 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.

Celebrated Chalkboard Chef Returns to Healdsburg

Bricoleur Vineyards Chef Shane McAnelly, left, and sous chef Evan Castro in the winery kitchen on Thursday, February 18, 2021. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

When chef Shane McAnelly left his post at Bricoleur Vineyards in 2021, it broke my heart. The culinary force behind Healdsburg’s Brass Rabbit and Chalkboard seemed to have found his stride in the kitchen of the sprawling Windsor winery.

The good news: McAnelly is back and stepping into a new role at chef Charlie Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen. Huzzah.

“Super excited about my new opportunity and to be back cooking beautiful California produce,” McAnelly said in an Instagram post.

I’m looking forward to what he’ll bring to the iconic Healdsburg restaurant. Stay tuned for more details.

The Best Winery Patios in Sonoma

MacRostie Winery in Healdsburg, California
Outdoor tasting area at MacRostie Winery in the Russian River Valley. (MacRostie Winery)

Perhaps the only thing better than tasting great wine is getting to sip and swirl while taking in the Wine Country scenery and soaking up some vitamin D. Sonoma County boasts a long list of stunning winery patios to do just that. Click through the above gallery for some inspiration. Did we miss any of your favorites? Let us know in the comments below.