While grapevines are preparing for a well-deserved winter rest, hotels in Sonoma County seem busier than ever. From new pools and guest rooms to winery pop-ups and cooking classes with a celebrity chef, here’s what’s happening on the hotel scene right now. Click through the above gallery for all the details and a peek at the properties.
The Marshall Store has been named among the “35 Best Seafood Shacks in America” by 24/7 Wall St., a financial news and opinion outlet. The list features restaurants across the country, from New York to Louisiana to Illinois.
“Located North of San Francisco, Marshall is home to beautiful coastal scenery and an abundance of Pacific oysters. The Marshall Store carries a variety of them from their family oyster farm in nearby Tomales Bay,” wrote 24/7 Wall St., who reviewed lists, ratings and reviews from websites such as The Daily Meal, Gayot, Food Network, Eater and Yelp, as well as regional and local sites, to come up with their top picks.
The small, unassuming seafood shack overlooking Tomales Bay used to be a locals-only kind of place, overlooked by tourists on their way to the more popular Hog Island Oyster Co., just north of the town of Marshall. But in 2021, The New York Times named it among the “Top 50 Restaurants in America.” Since then, other national publications have taken note, including, most recently, 24/7 Wall St. Thankfully, The Marshall Store has remained unpretentious.
We’ve known for a long time, of course, that The Marshall Store is a local gem. It’s one of our dining editor Heather Irwin’s top picks on the coast and a favorite seafood spot.
“What The Marshall Store lacks in polish, it makes up in just-harvested oysters that are served either raw on the half shell or barbecued with garlic butter, Worcestershire sauce, bacon and parsley,” said Irwin in a 2021 article.
While the oysters are stellar, “don’t miss the hearty, New England-style clam chowder or vibrant fish tacos with grilled mahi mahi,” she advised.
Click through the above gallery for a peek at some of the delicious dishes served at The Marshall Store.
The Marshall Store, 19225 Highway 1, Marshall, 415-663-1339, themarshallstore.com
Guerneville has long been a diverse, friendly hamlet that welcomes everyone, including the LGBTQ+ community that has been so influential in this part of Sonoma. But for much of its history, the town has been a sleepy river hideaway, attracting mostly arts and nature types looking to escape busy city life.
Around 2012, Guerneville began morphing into a hip destination, with fresh new restaurants, shops and places to stay. And yet despite this evolution, the unincorporated community has remained small-town quaint – its population is just 4,747.
These days, for those in the know, Guerneville is one of the best retreats for absolutely everyone. It brims with bold-name chef-driven restaurants, chic boutiques and fashionable resorts celebrating the spectacular natural wonders that span the 5,683-acre Austin Creek State Recreation area.
Now, elegant second homes among the redwoods are being snatched up, while the LGBTQ+ culture still thrives. Get a taste of what all the fuss is about with this quick-glimpse getaway that will have you wanting to come back to explore more.
Fun fact: Guerneville used to be known as “Big Bottom,” referring to the alluvial flood plain that the area rests upon. Later, it was called Stumptown in honor of its redwood logging industry.
Start with a late morning stroll downtown, along the Main Street. The stretch is just a half-mile long, but chock-a-block with an eclectic mix of dive-y yet convivial bars, a few so-tacky-they’re-fun souvenir shops, kicky restaurants, and wine tasting rooms.
Be sure to browse at Sonoma Nesting Company. Dax Berg founded this funky, joyful vintage shop and art garden to showcase covetable clutter like candy-striped furniture, tasseled bedazzled lamps, and exquisite offbeat art. There’s so much to love in the eclectic, ever-changing mix of unique items, ranging from whimsical ephemera to lovingly restored antiques. Many of the treasures celebrate animals; Berg is involved in local rescue.
Drop in for lunch at the new PikNik Town Market (formerly Big Bottom Market). The artsy café delivers a delicious mix of gourmet grocery, an upscale deli complete with curated local wines, and custom-made, mouthwatering layer cakes finished with European buttercream.
New owner Mags van der Veen still serves the famous, Oprah-approved, warm and fluffy Big Bottom Biscuits, stuffed with delights like fresh blueberries and Bavarian cream, or smothered in mushroom gravy. Hearty sandwiches are superb, such as the creamy chicken salad dotted with currants, cashews, apple, aioli and crisp greens on daily-baked whole grain bread, or the lovely combo of beetroot hummus, pickled cucumber and cashew kale pesto on vegan sourdough.
Be sure to treat yourself to a cute little paper sleeve full of puffy, slightly sweet mini Dutch pancakes dusted with powdered sugar alongside a dollop of butter.
Check into boon hotel + spa. Entrepreneur Crista Luedtke helped put Guerneville on the map with this intimate enclave of 14 rooms in historic miner’s cabins tucked amid stately redwoods. Digs have been renovated into sexy, eco-friendly cottages clustered around a Mad Men-glitzy swimming pool, and more recently, Luedtke added safari-style glamping tents plus an adorable, 80-square-foot “Boonito” Airstream trailer.
Grab a complimentary-loan Boon bike and make your way a mile-or-so to Armstrong Redwoods State National Reserve. The 805-acre forest is a west county crown jewel, the groves of 500 to 2,000 year-old trees towering to 350 feet (taller than a football field is long). Breathe deep and savor the velvety quiet and solitude; the massive trees are often shrouded in mystical fog.
Get a light-ish dinner at Smart Pizza, enjoyed on the colorfully painted deck. Dough is made in house, hand stretched, topped in homemade sauces and specialties like handcrafted meatballs, then baked in a brick oven. Owner Suzy Kuhr rocks it with yummy choices like a North Coast pie of chicken, feta, artichoke hearts, pesto sauce and sun-dried tomatoes.
Sip a nightcap at boon hotel. The “mini bar” here is a full-spirits wet bar next to the hot tub, and a refrigerator stocked with an amazing array of local wines, artisanal canned cocktails, beers, and fresh squeezed juices for make-your-own hard quaffs. Just sign a sheet on the bar; you’re on the honor system.
Sleep in, and at your appointed time, boon staff leaves a darling breakfast nosh on your doorstep of fresh squeezed juice, coffee, sliced fruit, a hardboiled egg, and a fresh-baked pastry.
Ramble along Armstrong Woods Road, stopping in at Russian River Books & Letters to browse – gasp — real live books (not digital!). Owner Michael Rex loves books, and will recommend his finds – perhaps “August Wilson: A Life,” a biography of a playwright celebrating African American life in the 20th century (some made into films, including “Fences,” starring Denzel Washington and Viola Davis).
Take a few-minutes-drive over the Russian River bridge to Porter Bass Winery. Cooled by ocean breezes, the biodynamic vineyard in a saddle between two ridge tops produces top-notch Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Zinfandel, lovingly handcrafted by Winemaker Luke Bass. By-appointment tastings are held at a wood plank set-up under a shady walnut tree, in the company of veggie plots, orchards, dogs and cows.
Head back down the hill to the historic (but recently renovated) Dawn Ranch. Meander the sprawling 22 acres right on the banks of the Russian River, and admire the vintage apple trees, ancient redwoods, expansive flower gardens, and recently redesigned lodge, chalets, cottages and cabins.
Chef Fernando Trocca can prepare you a storybook picnic to savor amid the trees, stocked with goodies like local cheeses, salumi, sea salt crusted hearth bread, fruit, chocolate and optional wine (yes, get the wine). Or go all out, and he’ll pack you a feast of any Dawn Ranch restaurant dishes you like.
Skip on over to Nimble & Finn’s inside The Guerneville Bank Club (a collective of artisan shops and galleries) for a scoop of handmade artisanal ice cream made with organic dairy from Straus Creamery, seasonal produce, and housemade jams. Sisters and owners Jazmin Hooijer and Leandra Serena Beaver dream up magical concoctions like lavender honeycomb, Meyer lemon olive oil chocolate chunk, and whiskey butterscotch.
Back at boon hotel, indulge in a spa treatment, done in a Guerneville twist with CBD cooling balms for a beautiful, pain-releasing massage. Add in the healing tea service afterwards, for a detoxifying bliss blend of licorice root, peppermint extract, dandelion root, cinnamon and ginger.
Delight in dinner at boon eat + drink. Another Crista Luedtke project, this always-bustling café wows with Sonoma County-spirited dishes like some of the best mac-n-cheese you’ll ever have, dotted with Sebastopol’s mycopia mushrooms and truffle breadcrumbs, or spicy, chile braised Niman pork shoulder atop creamy polenta with fiesta slaw, ricotta salata and crunchy pepitas.
Don’t forget about the real, namesake Boon himself. You’ll see this now dear-departed rescue dog prancing as a mural on the wall, living on in our memories as the wiggly-waggly, frisbee-toting gentleman that Luedtke loved so much.
Recommendations
Sonoma Nesting Company, 16151 Main St., 707-869-3434; sonomanesting.com.
PikNik Town Market, 16228 Main St., Guerneville, 707-604-7295, pikniktownmarket.com.
boon hotel + spa, 14711 Armstrong Woods Road, 707-869-2721, boonhotels.com.
Armstrong Redwoods State National Reserve, 17000 Armstrong Woods Road, 707-869-2015, parks.ca.gov.
Smart Pizza, 16205 First St., Guerneville, 707-869-0651, facebook.com/duchessofdough.
Russian River Books & Letters, 14045 Armstrong Woods Road, Guerneville, 707-604-7197, booksletters.com.
Porter Bass Winery, 11750 Mays Canyon Road, Guerneville, 707-869-1475, porter-bass.com.
Dawn Ranch, 16467 California-116, Guerneville, 707-869-0656, dawnranch.com.
Nimble & Finn’s, 16290 Main St., Guerneville, 707-666-9411, nimbleandfinns.com.
boon eat + drink, 16248 Main St., Guerneville, 707-869-0780, eatatboon.com.
Last Sunday morning — just one day after their official Oct. 28 opening — Marla SR bakery chef/owner Amy Brown stood with her back to the cozy dining room she’s spent the last six months waiting to share with the neighborhood. From where she stood, she couldn’t see customers’ wide-eyed ogling of the pastry case stuffed with giant croissants, sugar-topped Crebbles and meringue-peaked tarts. Nor could she see how customers gaped at the changes to the former Miracle Plum space in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square.
Brown is one of the hardest-working bakers in the business, and Oct. 29 was no different. Toasting freshly made bagels and slathering them with farmer’s cheese and house-smoked trout as customers waited patiently took her full attention that morning.
“I’m operating on seven hours of sleep,” she said, finally turning around to face the room with a tired smile. Seven hours was luxurious compared to the average two hours she got before she opened the new spot. Brown and her husband, Joe Wolf, already operate a production bakery in Windsor that’s running at full capacity.
The warm and welcoming Railroad Square bakery is the first retail outlet for the couple since they moved to Sonoma County in 2020. They operated out of their Windsor bakery through the roughest days of the pandemic, feeding many locked-down pastry lovers with weekly walk-up sales of bagels, coffee and other breakfast treats along with holiday baked goods. The couple are common fixtures at farmers markets, too.
The Santa Rosa space has been gently renovated to add seating, a pastry case and espresso maker. It has a sunny glow with gold accents, hanging plants and warm-colored wooden bistro tables. You just want to plop down and nibble for hours on ham-and-cheese croissants, sesame bagels, their signature Crebble (knotted croissant dough baked with maple sugar and sea salt), hearty scones and dark-chocolate brownies. Baguettes and hearth-baked breads, including sourdough batard and walnut boule dusted with flour, sit on nearby shelves waiting for their crisp crust to be cracked open and moist, airy crumb revealed.
The bakery also sells coffee beans from Cute Coffee, teas (including chai), natural wines and beer, cookies and baguette sandwiches.
Open 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Thursday to Friday and 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. 208 Davis St., Santa Rosa, marlabakery.com
Chef Ari Weiswasser of the critically acclaimed Glen Ellen Star will open Stella restaurant at the former Cafe Citti location in Kenwood
The Glen Ellen chef has leased the recently overhauled 9049 Sonoma Highway building that served as a community hub and casual favorite of nearby winemakers for decades.
“Right now, Kenwood is very underserved in this corridor, and Sonoma Valley is ready for a new concept that will be accessible to Oakmont and Santa Rosa,” Weiswasser said.
After the departure of Cafe Citti in 2020 (now relocated to 2792 Fourth St. in Santa Rosa), the iconic building underwent a down-to-the-studs renovation.
“When you step into a location that the community loved, it’s important to honor that. But we’re also excited to explore our own evolution,” he said.
The forthcoming restaurant will have an open kitchen and wood-fired grill, much like Glen Ellen Star, but will be “leaning into its pasta game” with part of the menu dedicated to housemade pastas, according to Weiswasser. He added that Glen Ellen Star Chef de Cuisine Bryant Minuche will help create the new menu.
“I see a lot of activity happening in Napa and Healdsburg, and I think it’s nice to have some new concepts and energy in Sonoma,” Weiswasser said.
The restaurant will join Golden Bear Station, a new restaurant slated to open in late 2023 from the owners of the critically acclaimed Animo, in a slowly evolving revitalization of the small Sonoma Valley town.
Forestville’s unofficial motto is “The Good Life,” and it’s not hard to see why. A summer destination for bohemians and artists since the early 1900s, the rural town has majestic redwoods and river access, great restaurants, and laid-back, small-town style. Click through the above gallery for a few of our favorite things to do in Forestville.
Josephine Clements, Sofia Englund and Claire Weber contributed to this article.
A four-bedroom, four-bathroom Wine Country home with all the signature elements of a Mediterranean villa, including arched doorways and a covered loggia for alfresco dining, is currently listed for $4,875,000. A 26-foot octagon tower serves as a central point of the home and highlights its elegant architectural details.
The 4,310-square-foot home at 740 Shiloh Terrace in Santa Rosa sits on 8 acres and has been extensively remodeled.
A neutral palette contrasts with strong accents such as iron work detailing in the staircases. Stained wood beams and trims throughout the home warm up the color scheme, most notably in the library, which enjoys richly designed built-in shelves and a door that opens toward one of the terraces. Multiple terraces allow for several spots to take in spectacular views. A great room connects to an expansive deck.
Other amenities include a lap pool, an office and a spa deck. Click through the above gallery for a peek inside the home.
For more information on 740 Shiloh Terrace, contact listing agent Ryan Anderton, Luxury Estates & Vineyards, Sonoma Realty Group, PO Box 1810, Healdsburg, 707-244-7181, sonomarealtygroup.com
There’s nothing like taking a drive up the Pacific coast to calm the mind and awaken the senses — especially when there’s a one-of-a-kind experience waiting at the end of the journey. That’s just what you’ll find at Glen Blair Bar, an outdoor watering hole set deep in the majestic Mendocino County redwoods.
One of the things that makes this venue truly unique is its location. Glen Blair Bar is accessible only by way of the Skunk Train. Since 1885, this historic line has chugged its way through redwood groves and across trestle bridges into Mendocino’s scenic Noyo River canyon. Now, on Friday nights, it carries passengers from the Skunk Train Depot in Fort Bragg to a delightful hidden bar.
Starting at 6:30 p.m., passengers pay a $49.95 round trip fare and hop aboard a vintage train for the 25-minute ride to Glen Blair Junction. Along the way, bar-goers may purchase freshly popped popcorn as well as beer and wine as they take in views of the surrounding redwood forest while seated in enclosed train cars or standing on a breezy open-top “deck.”
As the train arrives at the Glen Blair Junction clearing, a magical, fairy-lit oasis comes into view, complete with fire pits, lawn games, live music, picnic tables and a bar station serving local wine, beer and cocktails. Even on cool, rainy nights, Glen Blair is a cozy destination thanks to the expansive covered bar structure and plenty of warming patio heaters. Trains depart hourly until the bar closes at 10:30 p.m.
Opened in October 2022, the Glen Blair Bar concept was two years in the making. The Skunk Train folks previously used the spot for events, weddings, concerts and movie nights before they hit on the genius idea to add a Friday night bar. “Why have the venue,” says Skunk Train General Manager Stathi Pappas, “if you’re not going to share it?”
As long as there are riders who want to make the journey, Glen Blair Bar will remain open year round.
Although the adults-only experience was created with locals in mind, it provides an excellent excuse — as if anyone needs one — for an overnight stay or weekend getaway in Mendocino. We can’t think of a better way to whet a thirsty traveler’s whistle.
Skunk Train Depot, 100 West Laurel St., Fort Bragg, 707-964-6371, skunktrain.com
A modern Tudor-inspired estate in the George Ranch neighborhood, just a few miles from the Sonoma Plaza, has hit the market for $6,500,000. The five-bedroom, three-bathroom home, which was built in 1984, recently underwent a full renovation. It is situated on 17 acres, which include riding trails, stables and a private lake.
The home at 2980 White Alder features top-of-the-line appliances and materials throughout but also traditional design elements, such as crown molding, paneled walls, bricks and turrets, which blend with a modern staircase, clean lines and high-contrast colors. The look is tranquil and sophisticated, with a black and white color scheme that is accented by the caramel warmth of furnishings, textiles and wood elements.
A pool and outdoor kitchen surround the home. Other amenities include a library and a separate apartment. Click through the above gallery for a peek inside the home.
For more information on this home at 2980 White Alder in Sonoma, contact listing agent Suzy Reily, 415-308-8040, 707-935-2288, suzy.reily@sothebys.realty with Sotheby’s International Realty – Wine Country – Sonoma Brokerage, 793 Broadway, Sonoma, sothebysrealty.com
Not everyone is a fan of breakfast. But if you ask most chefs about their favorite off-duty meal, softly scrambled eggs, crunchy hash browns and a properly emulsified Hollandaise will likely be part of the conversation. Michelin-starred chefs often wax nostalgic about the simplest dishes of their childhoods. Years-long attempts at mastering the perfect omelet are the stuff of kitchen legends.
That’s why Dierk’s Parkside Cafe and the former Dierk’s Midtown Cafe are popular for just that kind of comforting cuisine and much-loved by restaurant workers who appreciate chef Mark Dierkhising’s approach in the kitchen.
Chef Joel Shaw is among Dierkhising’s fans. He’s been a regular of Midtown with his wife, Marla, for nearly a decade.
“There’s just no pretension, and it’s so utilitarian. When I was younger, I always tried to find the greasiest spoons to eat at because they were so wholesome,” said the longtime Ramen Gaijin cook.
So, when the couple heard that the casual eatery on Fourth Street was for sale early last summer, they jumped at the opportunity to take it over.
“I was ready for something else, and breakfast is my favorite cuisine. I thought, ‘I can do that every day,’” Shaw said.
It was an emotional decision for the couple, but Shaw knew it was the right one.
“We were customers of this place, and we grew with it over the last nine years. We know this is an important establishment,” said Shaw, now one of the rare cooks transitioning from kitchen to restaurant ownership.
The name has changed too, to J&M’s Midtown Cafe. But much of the established breakfast, brunch and lunch menu remains.
“There is a group of people who sit at the counter almost every single day for breakfast. They don’t know each other outside of this restaurant, and that’s a big reason why I’m doing this. I want to provide the vessel for people to come together and create a culture and memories over good food,” Shaw said.
It hasn’t been a seamless transition, however. Ownership comes with a lot of responsibility, Shaw noted, to the existing staff of 10 and to customers who expect to find their favorite dishes on the menu like the smoked salmon hash, Gompa’s pancake breakfast or Chinese chicken salad. I would stage a one-woman revolt at the disappearance of the country Benedict (a once-in-a-blue-moon breakfast splurge of poached eggs doused in Hollandaise, with an extra side of Hollandaise, on a baguette with oven-dried tomato).
Thankfully, there are no plans to remove any of these. Shaw just wants to improve what he can. That means smoking the salmon for the smoked-salmon latkes Benedict, giving the Hollandaise a little more kick and brining the pastrami for the NY-style pastrami sandwich.
“We’re changing some of the techniques the cooks were using and teaching them new things. It allows me to be creative without changing the menu,” Shaw said.
He’s also added specials like the fermented green tomato Benedict and smoked rib hash. Both have been hot sellers, though some regulars weren’t sure what to make of the word “fermented” on the menu.
Shaw, a preservation fanatic, headed an extensive fermentation program at Ramen Gaijin in Sebastopol. He makes his own sour dill pickles and vinegar shrubs (drinks made with fruit, sugar and vinegar that’s wildly refreshing).
“Preserving food is an art form we’ve lost as a culture, because food is so accessible. I love harnessing the power of bacteria to make food more delicious,” he said.
Shaw has also added unconventional wine pairings to the menu, like French toast with a bright chenin blanc, a creamy Meiomi chardonnay with Hollandaise or a crisp brut rosé sparkling wine with buttermilk doughnut bites. He’d love to move people away from the usual brunch mimosa to something that pairs better with his food.
“I want to open up people’s concept of brunch and wine pairing. A glass of wine with food makes the whole meal better,” he said.
Ultimately, Shaw just wants J &M’s Midtown Cafe to be consistent and constantly improving.
“This place doesn’t just belong to me,” he said. “It belongs to the customers and staff. I always want people to feel that they’re in the right place.”
Specials: The ever-changing lineup is always a good choice because it showcases Shaw’s always-simmering creativity. Recent dishes included pork shoulder chilaquiles, smoked rib hash, a pulled pork sandwich, braised skirt steak tacos and heirloom tomato soup with crostini.
Country Benedict ($16): I compare every Benedict to this gold standard. Perfectly poached eggs dribble their yolk onto a bed of bacon, mushrooms and spinach and soak into a soft split baguette. English muffins don’t hold a candle to this version, and the Hollandaise is spot-on. An oven-roasted tomato adds a hint of acid and sweetness.
Smoked salmon latkes Benedict ($18): Latkes require just the right mix of shredded potatoes and onions, a crunchy exterior and a pillowy inside. Shaw has worked hard to get this version right. House-smoked salmon (not lox) is flavorful and moist, with poached eggs and Hollandaise bringing together the whole dish.
NY-style pastrami sandwich ($16): It’s not quite a Reuben, but it’s even better. Buttery toasted whole-grain bread is stuffed with lightly pickled red cabbage and Thousand Island-style dressing. Thinly sliced pastrami gets just enough heat for the edges to gently curl under a layer of melted Jack cheese. Perfection.
French toast ($12.65): Shaw’s version uses a fresh ciabatta baguette dipped in egg, milk and cinnamon batter, leaving the inside soft and custard-like and the exterior crisp.
J&M’s Midtown Cafe is at 1422 Fourth St. in Santa Rosa. 707-545-2233, jm-midtowncafe.com. Open 7 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Thursday through Tuesday (closed Wednesday).
