Craving Greek Cuisine? Cotati’s Mezzeluna Fits the Bill

Moussaka from Mezzeluna restaurant in Cotati. (Mezzeluna)

People in Sonoma County seem to be crazy for moussaka, a sort of Greek lasagna layered with creamy Bechamel sauce, eggplant, tomatoes, and ground beef, that’s a rarity in these parts — which may be why Cotati’s new Greek restaurant, Mezzeluna, was completely sold out by 7 p.m. on a Friday.

Though the fledgling restaurant’s vegetarian moussaka didn’t disappoint (even though it was hard to find it under a mound of sprouts, greens and shaved carrots that concealed it on the plate — and every plate — we tried), it was a bit heartbreaking to miss out on this signature dish of great Greek restaurants.

With few authentic Greek restaurants in the North Bay, it’s understandable that moussaka is a hot item, and Mezzeluna is undoubtedly Greek, featuring classic dishes like moussaka, spanakopita, saganaki, koftadakia, avgolemono soup and souvlaki.

Lamb shank from Mezzeluna restaurant in Cotati. (Mezzeluna)
Lamb shank from Mezzeluna restaurant in Cotati. (Mezzeluna)
Tzatziki from Mezzeluna restaurant in Cotati. (Mezzeluna)
Tzatziki from Mezzeluna restaurant in Cotati. (Mezzeluna)
Pork chops from Mezzeluna restaurant in Cotati. (Mezzeluna)
Pork chops from Mezzeluna restaurant in Cotati. (Mezzeluna)

The warm and welcoming Cotati restaurant is co-owned by chef and restaurateur Ali Cetin, a Santa Rosa Junior College culinary graduate, and chef Baki Bekci , formerly of the Four Seasons Hotel in Napa, and though it’s still early days, chef Bekci’s deftness with this Mediterranean cuisine bodes well.

Though not every dish is perfected, we were impressed by the flaky spanakopita ($9), a puff pastry filled with herbs and spinach; saganaki ($11), fried cheese topped with honey and raisins; and the crisp, grilled Branzino ($30) which was disguised by a pile of greens, making it a little hard to decipher exactly which dish was which on the table.

Dessert is joyful, and Kunefe ($12), a dessert of shredded phyllo dough filled with melted cheese and soaked in sugar syrup, is a must try. Topped with pistachio ice cream, it’s a savory and sweet finish to the meal.

Certainly there’s plenty to like about Mezzeluna, and we promise to be back for the moussaka. 8099 La Plaza A, Cotati, 707-992-0101, mezzeluna.com. Vegetarian options, children’s menu. Open for lunch and dinner.

Try a Deliciously Sweet Swedish ‘Semla’ in Petaluma

Semla from Stockhome restaurant in Petaluma. (Stockhome)

In Sonoma County, every season has its own flavor. In the United States, almost all of our favorite foods have their own day. There’s National Pie Day, National Hamburger Day, National Pizza Day—there’s even National Baked Alaska Day.

In Sweden, where I’m from, we also like to dedicate a day—or a time of year—to our most beloved dishes. There’s Cinnamon Bun Day, All Sausages’ Day and Waffle Day. On most public holidays, including Christmas, Easter and Midsummer, we eat a lot of lox. During late summer crayfish parties, we sip schnapps and nibble on crustaceans. And on the third Thursday of August, some crazy Swedes feast on fermented herring.

For me, there’s no better seasonal treat than “semla,” a deliciously sweet Fat Tuesday bun filled with cardamom and almond paste and topped with whipped cream. Thankfully, for me and the rest of Sonoma County, you can order a semla (or “semlor,” plural – because you’ll want more than one) at Stockhome restaurant in Petaluma throughout February (also available for preorder and pickup).

Make the semla part of a “fika” with friends, a Swedish-style coffee break with some socializing. For more on how to live like a Swede in Sonoma County, check out this article from 2018.

Stockhome, 220 Western Ave., Petaluma, 707-981-8511. Semla preorders can be made at stockhomepetaluma.com.

12 Local Restaurants, Food Businesses Given ‘Snail of Approval’ by Slow Food

Crispy Kennebec Fries from the Spinster Sisters in the South A district of Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Michelin stars are well and good, but in Sonoma County, one of the most sought-after recognitions is the Snail of Approval from local chapters of Slow Food — an international organization based on the pursuit and practice of good, clean and fair food for all.

In September, 12 Sonoma County restaurants, farms and artisan producers were awarded the 2023 Snail of Approval by Slow Food Russian River and Slow Food Sonoma County North, which they will receive at the organizations’ 6th annual awards ceremony on Feb. 28 at the Sebastopol Grange. The rubrics for selecting winners each year include sustainability, ethical sourcing, environmental impacts, cultural connections, and community involvement.

The annual award has included many well-known Sonoma County farmers, producers and restaurateurs. You can see previous winners here.

“The Snail of Approval program celebrates the great achievements of establishments locally and nationally, with the goal of generating greater support for them as they incorporate Slow Food values in their businesses,” according to a joint statement from Slow Food Sonoma County North and Slow Food Russian River.

Click through the above gallery to meet this year’s Snail of Approval awardees.

Sonoma County Restaurant Makes Yelp’s ‘Top 100 Places to Eat in 2024’

Elotitos, or oven-roasted corn, with Jamaican jerk seasoning and chive crema at Guiso Latin Fusion. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

Guiso Latin Fusion has been recognized as one of the best places to eat in the US by restaurant review website Yelp.

Highlighted as a fusion hotspot, the Healdsburg restaurant came in at No. 32 on Yelp’s list of “Top 100 Places to Eat” in 2024 and was featured among just over a handful of dining destinations described as “new Latin tastes.”

Yelp’s top 100 list, compiled annually, highlights spots that “truly reflect the unique tastes of the Yelp community,” according to the website.

Guiso Latin Fusion specializes in sophisticated renditions and reincarnations of the cuisines of Central America, the Caribbean and South America. Chef Carlos J. Mojica, who was born in El Salvador and grew up in Sonoma County, opened the restaurant in October 2015, when he was only 24 years old.

These are not the first national gastronomic accolades for Mojica’s restaurant. In 2019, it was named one of the 100 best restaurants in the US by Open Table.

“Reservations are hard to come by at the 24-seat restaurant, so fans advise booking in advance for Carlos’ menu of family-style entrees and desserts—such as delicate fish tacos with poblano Chile yogurt sauce on homemade tortillas, and unique Arroz con Leche (rice pudding with coconut milk),” wrote Yelp in its listing of top 100 US restaurants in 2024.

After Mojica opened Guiso Latin Fusion in 2015, family, friends and extended family joined the chef in the operation of his restaurant to support his culinary vision, including Mojica’s mother, who prepared Salvadorean pupusas (stuffed corn tortillas).

The family-run establishment continues to be popular among diners, who appreciate its feeling of authenticity and its focus on preserving culinary traditions.

“I applaud all those who work here to keep traditional food alive and beautiful,” wrote Yelp user Adriana R in a review that was quoted on this year’s list.

Now in its 11th year, Yelp’s Top 100 Places to Eat ranking covers everything from restaurants to food trucks to hot dog carts.

The selection process involves several stages. First, Yelp asks its community members to submit nominations for their favorite restaurants. The community submissions are then analyzed by the website’s data science team to determine top restaurants based on ratings, number of reviews and volume of submissions. Finally, the field of restaurant nominees is refined by Yelp’s community managers and experts “to curate a list as quirky, interesting and unique as the Yelp Community itself,” according to the website.

This year, the No. 1 spot went to Tumerico, a vegetarian Latin American restaurant in Tucson, Arizona. Bay Area restaurants that made Yelp’s 2024 list include Ocean Indian Cuisine in San Francisco (No. 29), Shakespeare-themed pizzeria Much Ado About Pizza in Pleasanton (No. 51), Japanese curry restaurant Curry Hyuga in Burlingame (No. 55) and Mediterranean-style restaurant Mazra in San Bruno (No. 23).

13 New and Coming-Soon Restaurants in Sonoma County

Prime Burger Royale with comté cheese, onion marmalade, truffle mayo on a brioche bun with frites from Augie’s French Tuesday, November 28, 2023, on Courthouse Square in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
It’s not easy to keep up with Sonoma County’s dynamic food scene. Restaurants open and close, there are constant chef shuffles, menus change depending on mood and season, and there’s always a slew of new delicious dishes to try. The amount of options can get overwhelming and, instead of trying something new, we revert to the same tried-and-true restaurants. But every once in a while, it’s time to get a little adventurous and treat those tastebuds to something different. And who knows, maybe that new place that just opened up downtown will end up being your new favorite spot?
For some inspiration for 2024, click through the above gallery for a list of new and much-anticipated restaurants coming to Sonoma County this year.

Frida Kahlo’s Great-Great-Nephew Is Hosting a Mexico City Dinner Series in Napa

Compline Restaurant and Wine Shop in downtown Napa. (Courtesy of Compline)

Artist Frida Kahlo’s great-great-nephew, chef Diego Isunza Kahlo, offers a three-night interactive dinner series from Feb. 8 to 10 that will take diners on a virtual tour of Mexico City’s vibrant neighborhoods.

The eight-course meal, hosted at Napa’s Compline Restaurant, celebrates 24 hours of dining in the culinary mecca, starting and ending with breakfast. Guests can follow the journey on a map, and Isunza will offer his own stories with each dish.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Diego Isunza (@disunza)

“I present a menu in which, from breakfast through my midnight cravings, I will create a tour without respecting purisms or traditions imposed by the gastronomic police. These are the places, memories and flavors that in a very personal way have left a mark in my memory, in my heart and surely, in the size of my pants,” says Isunza Kahlo.

Reservations are $125 per person with the option to add an international wine pairing. More details and tickets available at https://shorturl.at/dpJY3.

This Brunch Pop-Up in Geyserville Is a Hidden Gem

A cocktail at Geyserville Gun Club in Geyserville. (Emma K Creative)

The brunch gods are calling you to a new underground collab at the coolest bar in Sonoma County, the Geyserville Gun Club. Chef Kristine Gallagher is popping up at Diavola’s sister pub on the last two Sundays of the month for brunch and cocktails.

But this is no weak mimosa and dry scrambled eggs kind of situation — Gallagher’s menu includes dishes like a savory Belgian waffle with crispy prosciutto, whipped ricotta cheese and sweet chili jam; brisket hash and poached egg with candied jalapeño; biscuits and gravy; and Meyer lemon ricotta pancakes with lemon curd and blueberries.

A savory Belgian waffle is topped with prosciutto and ricotta cheese at the Geyserville Gun Club brunch from Chef Kristine Gallagher. (Courtesy photo)
A savory Belgian waffle is topped with prosciutto and ricotta cheese at the Geyserville Gun Club brunch from chef Kristine Gallagher. (Courtesy photo)

To drink, try the Apple Jack Fizz with apple cinnamon syrup, vodka, heavy cream and citrus, a Bloody Mary with miso, Irish coffee with brown sugar whipped cream, or, ya know, a mimosa if that’s really what you’re craving.

The collaboration between GGCB owner Dino Bugica and Gallagher results from a longtime friendship between the two chefs.

“Dino and I always chatted about doing stuff together, and it just seemed to work now,” said Gallagher, a Farmhouse Inn alum and longtime winery chef. Until 2017, she owned a catering company and restaurant in Cloverdale called Savvy on First.

Children are welcome to the bar during brunch hours, and cartoons are on to keep little (and big) kids occupied. 9 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., Jan. 28, Feb. 18 and 25. 21025 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-814-0036. For more details, go to Instagram.com/asavvykitchen.

Another pop-up experience not to miss in Geyserville
Cafe de Marguerite: A roving pop-up dining experience from chef Margaret Ameel will be hosted at Catelli’s restaurant in Geyserville on Feb. 2. The five-course Mediterranean dinner will include wine from Cartograph. $130 per person. More details at Instagram.com/cafe_de_marguerite.

Handblown Glass Sparkles in Healdsburg Showroom

The new trade showroom at SkLO Studio in Healdsburg. (Adam Potts / Courtesy SkLO)

Karen Gilbert and Paul Pavlak founded the lighting and accessories company SkLO 10 years ago with design partner Pavel Hanousek.

The trio have a new trade showroom in Healdsburg, and their designs are produced at a glassblowing facility in the Czech Republic. As with Gilbert and Pavlak’s home in Sebastopol, the focus of the company’s designs is on subtlety and process, paring back shapes to their essence while layering in vibrant color.

Vases in the the new trade showroom at SkLO Studio in Healdsburg. (Adam Potts / Courtesy SkLO)
Vases in the the new trade showroom at SkLO Studio in Healdsburg. (Adam Potts / Courtesy SkLO)
Light fixture in the new trade showroom at SkLO Studio in Healdsburg. (Adam Potts / Courtesy SkLO)
Light fixture in the new trade showroom at SkLO Studio in Healdsburg. (Adam Potts / Courtesy SkLO)

Handblown pendant lights and sconces, jewel-colored vases and vessels, and elaborate glass-beaded wall art installations (a nod to Gilbert’s background in jewelry design) are staples of the SkLO lineup. The trio’s designs, with their deep Sonoma County roots, are now found in high-end restaurants and hotels around the world.

Early on, the three founders felt compelled to put every dollar they made straight back into each next project. But as they found their design footing, the company expanded.

SKLO Healdsburg
The new trade showroom at SkLO Studio in Healdsburg. (Adam Potts / Courtesy SkLO)

This year the designers introduced beautiful fluting and frosted options into the line. They soon will add new designs for furniture and tabletop accessories.

“I feel like we’re finally making what we want to make, versus what we had to make,” Gilbert said. “You go through a phase in design where you’re just trying to put the pieces of the puzzle together and make something that people want. And then, once you start to learn the language, you can create combinations of beautiful thoughts and processes together. I think we’re finally at that phase where we have a language we can speak in.

707-385-2101, sklo.com

Peek inside the home of SkLO owners Karen Gilbert and Paul Pavlak in this article

20 Best Restaurants in Sebastopol

(l to r) The Pickle Plate, Yakitori (from top; Chicken Tsukune, Hokkaido Scallop, Broccoli, and Wagyu Short Rib) and Maguro Poke from Ramen Gaijin in Sebastopol. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Right now, Sebastopol is one of the hottest food scenes in the North Bay. A combination of young chefs trying out new concepts, seasoned chefs creating destination restaurants, and a strong commitment to keeping things local has diners trekking to west county.

Restaurants here rarely disappoint because they know exactly who they are – or they don’t last long. Sebastopudlians insist on good food, made well and with a conscience.

Here are some favorites, though this is far from an exhaustive list.

Fern Bar

A vibey lounge and restaurant with astounding craft cocktails and super shareable plates for the table. It’s a favorite summer spot to sit outside and people-watch, but equally ideal for a cozy winter supper with friends. 6780 Depot St., Sebastopol, 707-861-9603, fernbar.com

Handline

Sustainable seafood, tacos, and great burgers in the coastal California tradition. Family-friendly and fast casual with outdoor and indoor dining. Hand-made corn tortillas, unbelievable al pastor, soft serve and fresh daily produce specials that never fail to impress. 935 Gravenstein Ave. South, Sebastopol, 707-827-3744, handline.com

Acre Pizza

Detroit pizza is always a winner, with a deep, crispy crust and melted cheese, but there’s no way to go wrong with any of the pies. Get a side of homemade Ranch dressing for a chef’s kiss experience, because here you won’t get side eye for a dipping. 6760 McKinley St., Suite 150, Sebastopol, 707-827-3455, acrepizza.com

The Redwood

Natural wine is the focus of this casual wine bar, but the kitchen outdoes itself with creative riffs on Mediterranean classics, seasonal plates and of-the-moment specialties. 234 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-861-9730, theredwoodwine.com

Goldfinch

Chef Rodrigo Mendoza’s (formerly of Willi’s Seafood and Charro Negro) dishes are organized into Bites, Small Shareable plates and Large Shareable plates. Full bar and great cocktails. 119 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-827-9882, goldfinchsebastopol.com

Piala

“The Eastern European Republic has set up an outpost in Sebastopol, and the result is delicious, interesting-to-explore Georgian cuisine and wines,” wrote The Press Democrat dining contributor Carey Sweet. 7233 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol, 707-861-9186, pialanaturalwine.com

Ramen Gaijin

Sonoma County’s required ramen spot, but there’s more to love on this menu. The izakaya and donburi selections include poke, fried chicken (kara-age), Liberty duck teriyaki and rice bowls. 6948 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol, 707-827-3609, ramengaijin.com

A&M BBQ

Marvin’s BBQ and Austin’s Southern Smoke BBQ merged to bring us flavor-bursting tri-tip, hearty ribs and pulled pork, jalapeno cornbread and excellent sides. 495 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-888-1315, instagram.com/ambbqllc 

Sushi Kosho

Top quality, affordable donburi and poke bowls for lunch, and the county’s top sushi (my tippy top fave) and excellent Japanese izakaya. 6750 McKinley St. (at The Barlow), Sebastopol, 707-827-6373, koshosushi.com

Americana

A second outpost of Santa Rosa’s favorite breakfast (served all day) and lunch cafe. Everything on the menu is sustainably sourced from local farms and ranchers. But this isn’t fussy food, it’s classic American favorites like burgers, milkshakes, fried chicken and onion rings. You can snooze away the morning and still get biscuits and country gravy, omelets and huevos rancheros until 3 p.m. 162 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-827-3309, americanasr.com

The Farmer’s Wife

Decadent and ridiculously ooey-gooey, munchy, crunchy grilled cheese sandos with all the goodness of Sonoma County stuffed inside. Like, say, housemade lamb merguez sausage with avocado, chimichurri, a farm egg and aged cheddar? Yep. Loaded fries and salads are tasty sides. 6760 McKinley St., Suite 120, Sebastopol, 707-397-9237, thefarmerswifeca.com

Osito Style Tacos

Chef Carlos Rosas has moved on from his Mexican street food concept Barrio at Sebastopol’s The Barlow and renamed his restaurant Osito Style Tacos, offering a playful take on fusion tacos. 6760 McKinley St., Suite 140, Sebastopol, 707-494-1416, ositostyletacos.com

Khom Loi

Authentically-inspired Thai cuisine from the Ramen Gaijin team. The indoor-outdoor space pays homage to the cuisine of Chiang Mai and nearby Laos, with nods to central and southern Thailand. There’s nothing shy or demure about the spicy, sweet, sour and bitter flavors of East Asia in every one of the dishes. 7385 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol, 707-329-6917, khomloisonoma.com

Psychic Pie

Roman-style slices are cut to order and weighed to determine price, meaning you can have small tastes of several or a large piece all to yourself. You’ll find seasonal, farm-fresh toppings like chevre with fresh lemon and herbs; potato with chile oil, mozzarella and crème fraîche; or hot coppa with Estero Gold cheese, mozzarella and hot honey. Traditionalists fear not — pepperoni and plain cheese are always on the menu. 980 Gravenstein Highway S., Sebastopol, 707-827-6032, psychicpie.com

Lunch Box

Their signature Burger Harn is the kind of messy, smushy, everything-that’s-good-about-beef masterpiece you rarely find. Paired with “dirty fries” (a pile of crispy fries, chevre ranch dressing, bacon, green onion, roasted garlic and pepperoncini), you’ll need a handful of napkins and a stout appetite. Menu additions include chicken Parmesan sandwiches and meaty hoagies. 128 N. Main St., Sebastopol, lunchboxsonomacounty.com

Jam’s Joy Bungalow

Behind this tiny walk-up window are giant flavors. Southeast Asian-inspired fare like banh mi, noodles and inspired daily specials like spicy seafood salad. Make your Monday with the Charlie Hustle fried chicken sandwich with sweet honey sauce, tamari pickles, cabbage and sriracha. 150 Weeks Way, Sebastopol, instagram.com/jamsjoybungalow

Inca’s Peruvian Cuisine

Inspired versions of the fine cuisine of Peru. The kitchen goes out of its way to use authentic ingredients and techniques but isn’t bound by tradition. 799 Gravenstein Highway S., Sebastopol, 707-861-9057, incasrestaurant.net

Muir’s Tea Room

A bright and cheery tea room with finger sandwiches, scones, soup and salads. The menu is entirely plant-based, but you won’t miss what’s missing. 330 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-634-6143, muirstearoomandcafe.com

Sarmentine Bakery

A new outpost of this Santa Rosa patisserie has opened at The Barlow. Caneles, croissants and baguettes are winners, but eclairs always steal the show. 6760 McKinley St, Sebastopol, 707-623-9595, sarmentine.com

Patisserie Angelica

This luxe French bakery does everything from gasp-worthy wedding cakes and high-tea to galettes, macaron and flaky croissants. You’re guaranteed not to leave this charming cafe empty-handed. 6821 Laguna Park Way, Sebastopol, 707-827-7998, patisserieangelica.com

A Contemporary Glen Ellen Estate References the Past, Looks Toward the Future

Glen Ellen vineyard estate
This recently completed Glen Ellen estate, built on the site of a home destroyed by the 2017 wildfires, references its surroundings and the property’s past, but also look toward the future. (Adam Potts Photography)

When architect Amy A. Alper was asked to design a new home on a Glen Ellen property destroyed by the 2017 Northern California wildfires, she felt that the new building should reference its surroundings and the property’s past, but also look toward the future.

“Sadness over the loss (of the previous home on the property) would be overcome by the idea of connection, expressed in a variety of ways,” she explains. Like Alper, the owners wanted the property to represent its “poignant history,” as well as “a renewed future.”

The recently completed Glen Ellen estate has an exterior of stone, Corten steel and cedar that, according to Alper, expresses “another kind of connection” and “anchors” the building to the property’s working vineyard as well as the agricultural history of the region.

Fireplace and vineyard views. (Adam Potts Photography)
Fireplace and vineyard views. (Adam Potts Photography)
The privacy of the property allowed for a window in the shower. (Adam Potts Photography)
The privacy of the property allowed for a window in the shower. (Adam Potts Photography)
These metal pickets at the stair are a "nod to the stakes supporting vines," says architect Amy A. Alper. (Adam Potts Photography)
These metal pickets at the stair are a “nod to the stakes supporting vines,” says architect Amy A. Alper. (Adam Potts Photography)

Beyond a connection to the past and the surrounding landscape, Alper and the property owners also wanted the new home to foster “emotional connections.” This idea is expressed in the reconfiguration of the home’s entrance, which is now a central feature of the building, and welcomes family and friends through a tower covered in a patchwork of Corten steel. And, compared to the previously much smaller home, there is now ample room to entertain and house guests.

The interior of the building also takes inspiration from the natural setting. Toasted-oak cabinetry matches the golden grassy hillside. Veiny marble slabs in the shower mimic the “movement and soft textures of the grasses and trees outside,” according to Alper. Charcoal tile floors connect to the scorched gray tones that remain amid new green growth. Lots of windows allow light to flood the rooms, giving the home a bright and airy atmosphere. 

Click through the above gallery for a peek inside the Glen Ellen estate.

Amy A. Alper, Architect, alperarchitect.com