Brunch at Wit & Wisdom restaurant in Sonoma. (David Varley/Wit and Wisdom)
Consider this a friendly reminder to start making plans: Mother’s Day is May 12 this year.
If there’s one thing all mothers love, it’s a good brunch. Luckily, we live in Sonoma County, which is teeming with delicious brunch spots that are putting on special events for the holiday.
Now is the perfect opportunity to start paying your mother back for all the love and care she’s provided you by taking her out to a lovely meal at one of Sonoma County’s hottest brunch spots.
Santa Rosa
Bennett Valley Golf Course: A Mother’s Day golfing session and brunch from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. at the golf course’s Iron & Vine restaurant. The brunch menu includes eggs Benedict, churro French toast, chicken Madeira and carving station with rosemary and pepper crusted top round. Brunch is $59 per adult, $23 per child ages 3-12 and complimentary for children 3 and under. Moms golf for free with another paying golfer. Reserve a spot online. 3330 Yulupa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-852-1162, bennettvalleygolf.com
Flamingo Resort: This Santa Rosa resort’s epic buffet features everything from prime rib, sweet potato frittata and salmon curry to bagels with smoked salmon, muffins, veggies and baked macaroni and cheese. Save room for dessert options like cinnamon rolls, chocolate mousse tart and chocolate chip cookies. $70 per person, kids $35. Reservations are required, prepaid, and are available at flamingoresort.com. 2777 Fourth St., 707-545-8530.
John Ash & Co. at Vintner’s Resort: No one leaves hungry at this high-end buffet that includes a carving station with turkey breast and beef tenderloin, slow-roasted salmon with heirloom tomatoes, raw oysters, shrimp cocktail, multiple salads, cinnamon swirl French toast and much more. Kids get a special buffet with dishes like tater tots and chicken nuggets. $105 for adults; $45 for kids. Brunch runs from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., with reservations available at vintnersresort.com. 4350 Barnes Road , 707-527-7687.
Enjoy the flowers in the garden at John Ash & Co at Vintners Resort in Santa Rosa. (Vintners Resort)Breakfast at Vintners Resort in Santa Rosa. (Vintners Resort)
Healdsburg
Breathless Wines: This special bubbles and brunch event starts with a glass of Blanc de Blancs and lighter fare, including quiche, fruit salad, assorted muffins, scones and a dessert treat on the charming outdoor patio. Live piano from Nick Foxer accompanies an afternoon of award-winning sparkling wines for purchase by the glass or bottle. Tickets are $38 for nonmembers and $30 for Sparking Society members. Reserve spaces at exploretock.com/breathlesswines. 499 Moore Lane, 707-395-7300.
Comstock Wines: This Healdsburg winery celebrates its annual Mother’s Day brunch with seatings at 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. The food and wine pairing for adults 21 and over includes Black Truffle deviled egg, Comstock poke, chicken and waffles and house-smoked chicken hash with a poached egg. Tickets are $125 per person, or $110 with club membership. A $75 deposit per person is required when reserving a table. Reserve at exploretock.com/comstockwines. Guests must be over 21. 1290 Dry Creek Road, 707-723-3011, comstockwines.com
Hazel Hill at Montage Healdsburg: A Mother’s Day brunch buffet from 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. with dishes crafted by executive chef Jason Pringle, chef de cuisine Sean Koenig and their team. The buffet will include housemade pastries, traditional breakfast fare, a seafood bar, a carving station with herb crusted salmon, grilled lamb loin, roasted strip loin, and more. Guests will also be treated to libations and a celebratory gift to take home. Tickets are $145 for adults;$65 for children (ages 5-12). For reservations, call 707-354-6900 or book on OpenTable. 100 Montage Way, Healdsburg, 707-979-9000, montagehotels.com/healdsburg/dining/hazel-hill
Dry Creek Kitchen: Chef Shane McAnelly’s menu features something for everyone, including some Dry Creek Kitchen classics, such as smoked salmon toast and Kanpachi crudo, for the first course. Main course dishes include eggs Benedict, Mary’s Chicken Roulade and more. Finish off with seasonal desserts. And don’t forget the special Mother’s Day cocktails! Brunch is $110 per person, $55 for children 6 and under. Reserve a table at drycreekkitchen.com. 317 Healdsburg Ave., 707-431-0330, drycreekkitchen.com
Spoonbar: This classy-yet-low-key spot serves a brunch buffet from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., featuring seasonal California cuisine. The buffet includes savory breakfast classics, seasonal salads, sweet treats and more. Menu highlights include fresh fruit salad, Eggs Florentine, ricotta pancakes, a New York striploin carving station, chocolate-dipped profiteroles and more. Brunch is $69 per person, $25 for kids 12 and under. Add-ons, like bottomless Bellini’s or bottomless mimosas, cost an additional $25. Reservations at spoonbar.com. 219 Healdsburg Ave., 707-433-7222.
Greek yogurt Panna Cotta from Hazel Hill at Montage Healdsburg. (Emma K Creative)A bottle of bubbly from Breathless Wines in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Breathless Wines)
Geyserville
Geyserville Grille: Part of the Geyserville Inn, Geyserville Grille will serve an outdoor brunch buffet with grilled lamb chops, chicken Florentine and breakfast classics like waffles with seasonal berries and an omelet station. Vegetarian and vegan options include marinated tofu and various salads. Brunch is $30 per person, $15 for children 12 and under. For more information, visit geyservilleinn.com. 21714 Geyserville Ave., 877-857-4343.
Kenwood
Salt & Stone: The Mother’s Day a la carte menu includes special brunch breakfast items, like chicken and waffles, brioche French toast and Salt & Stone eggs Benedict. The full menu and reservations are at saltstonekenwood.com. 9900 Sonoma Highway, 707-833-6326.
Sonoma
Folktable: This Michelin Bib Gourmand recipient celebrates mom with a complimentary botanical mocktail when purchasing a meal. Enjoy daily menu items like the Honey Fried Chicken Sandwich or the French Farm Omelet. Reserve your table at folktable.com. 23584 Arnold Drive, 707-356-3567.
Layla at MacArthur Place: MacArthur Place Hotel’s Layla restaurant will host a three-course Mother’s Day brunch. The menu includes smoked trout rillettes, buttermilk pancakes, New England lobster Benedict, huevos rancheros, shrimp and grits and steak frites. Plus, a trio of mini desserts — carrot cake, a chocolate mint ice cream sandwich and lemon almond tart with strawberries – and creative spring cocktails. Brunch is $65 for adults and $35 for kids. 29 E. MacArthur St., Sonoma, 707-938-2929, macarthurplace.com/food-drink/layla-restaurant
Santé at Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa: A Mother’s Day brunch at Fairmont’s Santé restaurant from 9:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. with a decadent menu with a beautiful seafood platter to share and choice of entrees like the Butter-Poached Lobster Benedict, Miso Braised Short Rib Hash or Spring Omelet. Satisfy your sweet tooth with Chef Melissa’s signature dessert station, with delicious selections like Meyer Lemon Tart and Cappuccino Crème Brûlée. The brunch is $125 per person, $39 for kids ages 5-12, and complimentary for children 4 and under. 100 Boyes Blvd., Sonoma, 707-938-9000, fairmont-sonoma.com
Wit & Wisdom: This restaurant, located in The Lodge at Sonoma, offers a three-course prix-fixe menu from 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. with starters like Hamachi Crudo and dishes like classic eggs Benedict and chef Michael Mina’s famous lobster pot pie. The meal is $89, with add-ons from the a la carte menu available for an additional fee. Reservations are encouraged by booking ahead at witandwisdomsonoma.com. 1325 Broadway, Sonoma, 707-931-3405.
Brunch at Wit & Wisdom in Sonoma. (Wit & Wisdom)
Petaluma
Seared: A Mother’s Day brunch 9:30 a.m. to noon with a variety of a la carte dishes, including half dozen oysters on ice, lobster deviled eggs, housemade cinnamon rolls, biscuits and gravy, chicken and waffles, prime rib hash, and filet and eggs. Make reservations online or by calling 707-762-5997. 170 Petaluma Blvd N., Petaluma, petalumaseared.com
SingleThread restaurant in Healdsburg. (SingleThread)
Hotels in Sonoma, Napa and Mendocino counties have been recognized as among the best in the country by the Michelin Guide, best known for handing out coveted stars to exceptional restaurants.
On Wednesday, the French tire company announced its inaugural class of 124 Michelin Key winners in the United States, including top honors — or three keys — for SingleThread Inn in Healdsburg, Auberge du Soleil in Rutherford and Meadowood in St. Helena. Only 11 hotels received this distinction, described by the Guide’s inspectors as “extraordinary stays.”
The new awards rate hotel properties in five categories: architecture and interior design, quality and consistency of service, overall personality and character, value for the price, and significant contribution to the guest experience in a particular setting.
“It’s all about astonishment and indulgence here — this is the ultimate in comfort and service, style and elegance. It is one of the world’s most remarkable and extraordinary hotels and a destination in itself for that trip of a lifetime. All the elements of truly great hospitality are here to ensure any stay will live long in the memory and hearts,” said the Guide of three Key winners.
More than 1,000 properties were ranked, with California receiving 124 nods — the most of any state. Stays at Michelin noted hotel properties in Wine Country range from $500 per night for private rooms to more than $6,000 for villas.
Three Key winners (“Extraordinary stays”)
Topping the Three Key list, Kyle and Katina Connaughton’s five-room luxury inn is the only U.S. property with both three Michelin stars for its restaurant and three Michelin keys.
The five-room bespoke inn above the restaurant offers a rooftop breakfast, guaranteed reservations at the restaurant (usually booked months in advance) and a four-course Japanese hot pot experience for room service. The nightly rate ranges from $1,300 for a weekday stay in a guest room to $2,600 for a suite.
“Our hospitality has always been about welcoming guests to our home … This is the home of a chef and a farmer and a family that we’ve built around what we do,” said Kyle Connaughton.
The Guide described Rutherford’s Auberge du Soleil as a must-stop for well-heeled visitors.
“They come for the setting, with views over endless vineyards and olive groves; they come for the hotel, which is effortlessly, unpretentiously luxurious; and they come, most of all, for the restaurant, which stands out as something special even in Napa Valley, a region that’s arguably America’s culinary capital.”
The resort also has a one-Michelin-star restaurant. Nightly rates range from $1,500 for a single guest room to nearly $7,000 for a private two-bedroom house.
‘“We are so grateful to the MICHELIN Guide for recognizing Auberge du Soleil with the most prestigious Three Keys Award,” said Bradley Reynolds, Managing Director at Auberge du Soleil. “The MICHELIN Guide is held in such high regard for providing trusted recommendations for travelers worldwide, so it is truly an honor to stand with just 10 other hotels that received this incredible distinction in the Guide’s inaugural US Key Hotels list. This is a tribute to our team members who work tirelessly to deliver warm, welcoming and exceptional wine country hospitality every day.”
In St. Helena, the sprawling Meadowood Napa Valley got high marks for its wine program, with guides calling it “California wine country’s most rarefied — and wine-obsessed — hotels. Meadowood Napa Valley has been a local institution for half a century, but far from showing its age, today it remains an absolutely first-rate luxury resort.” The property has 36 suites and rooms, ranging from $1,500 to $2,200 for a suite
In 2020, the property’s Michelin-starred restaurant was destroyed by the Glass Fire. The restaurant remains closed.
Two Key winners (“Exceptional stays”)
The Stavrand, Guerneville: After a 2021 update, this historic hotel offers a “warm, bohemian, slightly utopian vision of California life,” according to the Michelin Guide, costing $530 to $1,020 for a king suite.
Montage, Healdsburg: This sleek, modern resort tucked into the vineyards and woodlands north of Healdsburg includes a high-end restaurant, bar, and other luxury amenities. Nightly rates range from $1,479 to $9,000 for a four-bedroom residence.
The Madrona, Healdsburg: This 1881 Victorian mansion recently underwent a complete design overhaul, mixing old charm with newer art and interiors. Studio rooms are $650, with a private Bungalow suite rate of $1,330.
Milliken Creek Inn & Spa, Napa: This popular Napa property has only 12 guest rooms and offers a romantic and relaxed atmosphere. Nightly rates are not listed online.
Bardessono, Yountville: This hotel has a distinctive, modern look backed by many sustainable features. Nightly rates range from $1,365 to $4,218.
North Block, Yountville: A villa-like experience with 20 rooms ranging from $975 to $1,325 per night.
One Key winners (“A very special stay”)
Harbor House, Elk: This small property on the rugged Mendocino Coast has six rooms and a Michelin-rated restaurant. The deluxe cottage suite is $675 to $1,650 per night.
The Sea Ranch Lodge, Sea Ranch: “The Sea Ranch has long been one of coastal California’s most unusual places — a planned community, established in the 1960s, where a number of prominent midcentury architects built a variety of low-profile, low-impact timber-frame houses,” says the Michelin Guide. $600 to $1,195 for a four-bed, three-bath home.
Stanly Ranch, Napa: Another Auberge resort set on a 712-acre ranch. Guestrooms, suites, and villas are available for $1,045 to $4,200 per night.
Rancho Caymus Inn, Rutherford: Built by salt heiress Mary Tilden Morton, the inn is a hacienda-style tribute to the Spanish countryside, says the Guide. A total of 26 rooms and suites ranging from $650 to $898 per night.
(Please note that prices are approximate based on current website searches and may be significantly higher or lower based on the time of year and specific days.)
A variety of Mexican dishes served at the Mitote Food Park in Santa Rosa. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)
The first commemoration of Cinco de Mayo took place in California in 1863, one year after a stunning Mexican victory over a much larger invading French army at the Battle of Puebla on May 5, 1862.
161 years later, Cinco de Mayo continues to be a cause for celebration in the United States where people of all ages get together to celebrate Mexican American culture. This year, Sonoma County serves up a variety of opportunities to enjoy the day with food and fun. Here are a few things to do this Cinco de Mayo.
Cinco de Mayo events
Roseland Cinco de Mayo Festival, Santa Rosa: Roseland’s immensely popular Cinco de Mayo festival returns for its 15th anniversary after a four-year pandemic-era hiatus. In 2019, the last year it was held, the celebration drew about 10,000 to the Roseland Village shopping center on Sebastopol Road. This year, it will take place from 3 p.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday, May 5, at Mitote Food Park (665 Sebastopol Road). The event will feature live music from Banda La Congora, Maxima Frequencia, Los del 7, Mariachi Cantares de Mi Tierra and more, dance performances, delicious food and drinks, and a variety of vendors. The family-friendly event is free to attend. More information at santarosacincodemayo.com
Cinco de Mayo Celebration, Sonoma: La Luz Center, a Sonoma Valley nonprofit that “strengthens community through family services, economic advancement and community engagement,” will host its popular Cinco de Mayo celebration from 1 p.m. to 7 p.m. on Sunday, May 5, on the Sonoma Plaza. The free event, which usually draws hundreds of visitors, will feature live music from from local bands Mariachi Juvenil Aguascalientes and Banda Valle Alegre, folkloric dances from Grupo Folklórico Quetzalén, and “captivating storytelling sessions highlighting the significance of Cinco de Mayo.” There will be a variety of food vendors serving Mexican cuisine, as well as artisans selling handmade crafts and artworks inspired by Mexican heritage. More information at sonomacity.org
Cinco de Mayo Fest, Windsor: The town of Windsor will serve up Mexican cuisine, live music, traditional dance and family-friendly activities from 2 to 8 p.m. at Windsor Palms Plaza, 8465 Old Redwood Highway. The event is free. More information at 707-545-1460, business.windsorchamber.com/events.
Joel Garcia and Angelica Ramirez of V!va Folklorico dance on stage during the Roseland Cinco de Mayo festival, in Santa Rosa, California, on Saturday, May 5, 2018. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)“El Potrillo” Jose Alejandro Rincon, 7, performs lasso tricks during the Roseland Cinco de Mayo festival, in Santa Rosa, California, on Saturday, May 5, 2018. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Food and Drinks
Cinco de Mayo Lunch: Residents ages 50 and up can attend an event from noon to 2 p.m. on May 2 at Finley Community Center in Santa Rosa, which includes a delicious lunch that honors Mexican culture and history. Call or register online. $9-$12. 707-543-3745. 2060 West College Ave., Santa Rosa. srcity.org
Cinco de Mayo Fiesta at Robledo Family Winery, Sonoma: Sonoma Valley’s Robledo Family Winery will continue its tradition of hosting an annual Cinco de Mayo event from noon to 3 p.m. on Saturday, May 4. It will be a day filled with delicious Mexican food, Mariachi music, Ballet Folklorico dance performances, and, of course, wine from the Carneros-based winery. Make sure to grab a glass of Sauvignon Blanc — and a dance partner. Tickets are $115 for wine club members; $125 for non-members. 21901 Bonness Road, Sonoma, robledofamilywinery.com
Cinco de Mayo Mezcal de Leyendas Dinner, Santa Rosa: The Flamingo Resort’s Lazeaway Club will host a dinner event in partnership with Mezcal de Leyendas, a distillery known for its distinct, terroir-focused spirits made from lesser-known agave regions (outside of Oaxaca). Lazeaway chef Chris Ricketts will prepare a menu from local, seasonal ingredients to pair with the mescal. There will be a reception from 6 p.m. to 7 p.m. on May 5, followed by dinner. Dinner is $95 per person. Reservations can be made on Open Table.
Cinco de Mayo Brunch Behavior Day Party, Petaluma: The Block food park in Petaluma will celebrate Cinco de Mayo with a Brunch Behavior day party from 1 p.m. to 6 p.m. on Sunday, May 5, with beats from DJ C-Los, DJ Cal and DJ Sykwidit. Sonoma County’s Tacos Don Pepe will provide the food, there will also be specialty drinks and VIP tables with complementary champagne bottles and access to a bar that is exclusive for VIP guests. “Stylish day attire” is required for this 21+ event. Early bird tickets are $15; general admission is $20; tickets at the door $25. VIP tables are $250. Purchase tickets on Eventbrite. The Block Petaluma, 20 Grey St., Petaluma.
Chicken, vegetables and rice with red mole from the Maria Machetes food truck at the Mitote Food Park in Santa Rosa. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)Banana margarita at La Fondita on Third Street in downtown Santa Rosa. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Margaritas
One of the drinks most commonly associated with Cinco de Mayo is the margarita. Often hailed as the quintessential Mexican cocktail, the origins of this drink remain debated — some claim it was invented in Tijuana in the 1930s while others say the first margarita was concocted by a Dallas socialite at her Acapulco vacation home in 1948.
No matter where it came from or how you like yours — frozen or on the rocks, with or without salt, flavor-infused or classic — Sonoma County serves up some marvelous margaritas. A few Sonoma Magazine favorites include La Rosa’s La Diabla, with lime, strawberry (or other fruits, your choice) and muddled serrano chiles, served on the rocks; Agave’s La Reyna del Sur, with Herradura silver tequila, fresh squeezed lime and Grand Marnier; Maya Restaurants’s House Margarita, with 100 percent Blue Weber Agave silver tequila, orange liqueur, and fresh lemon and lime juice; and La Fondita’s unconventional libations, like the surprisingly tasty toasted Marshmallow Margarita, along with their classic margaritas.
Dining editor Heather Irwin’s personal favorites are the clear margarita at Rooftop 106 in Healdsburg and the margarita from Sushi Kosho in Sebastopol.
Bolognese lasagna made with 12 layers of spinach pasta, rags and béchamel sauce at Portico in Sebastopol, Wednesday, April 24, 2024. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Paolo Pedrinazzi feeds a simple ball of dough through metal rollers in the front of his open kitchen over and over until a sheet of nearly translucent pasta stretches several feet between his arms.
It’s gossamer light and threatens to tear if you look at it the wrong way, but somehow, the Italian native gently carries the fresh lasagna sheets to the back, where they’ll be cut and piled between a Bolognese ragu and béchamel sauce. Not your mama’s lasagna.
Pedrinazzi and his wife, Kat Escamilla, are the pasta whisperers of Portico Italian Social Food restaurant in Sebastopol. The homey cafe has all the charm of Nana’s kitchen as Escamilla scurries between tables, dropping plates of cacio e pepe, risotto and fresh pappardelle pasta with saffron cream to customers. And, of course, the 12-layer lasagna.
Paolo Pedrinazzi makes tagliatelle pasta from scratch at Portico in Sebastopol, Wednesday, April 24, 2024. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
“It’s part of our mission to perpetuate things being done by hand. It’s great for people to see that, and that’s why we cook in an open kitchen,” Escamilla said. Pasta is made throughout the dinner service, so there’s a good chance you’ll see Pedrinazzi in action.
Portico is one of Sonoma County’s hidden gems, well-known to locals but usually overlooked by visitors in its cozy corner of Main Street. Pedrinazzi isn’t a Michelin-starred chef but a passionate cook who brings recipes from his family in Bologna, Italy — the culinary mecca of a country known for incredible food — to Sebastopol.
Growing up, Pedrinazzi made fresh pasta at his father’s bakery in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy, best known for its rich, egg-based pasta, Parmigiano-Reggiano, prosciutto and mortadella — closely related to bologna (or baloney) in the U.S.
“He’s a home cook, but Paolo knows his region’s cuisine like the back of his hand,” said Escamilla, who brings her experience as a longtime caterer to the husband-and-wife team.
One of her superpowers, however, is sharing the history and culture behind iconic Italian dishes like Bolognese sauce — called Ragu alla Bolognese in Italy.
Bolognese lasagna made with 12 layers of spinach pasta, rags and béchamel sauce at Portico in Sebastopol, Wednesday, April 24, 2024. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)Zuppa Inglese, a classic Bolognese dessert, made with layers of custard and cake, with Alchermes liqueur and covered in chocolate ganash at Portico in Sebastopol, Wednesday, April 24, 2024. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
A trained anthropologist and former teacher, Escamilla riffs on the sauce, explaining its ancient history as a cozy gravy that included beef, pork, onions and a soffrito of carrots, celery, bell pepper and tomatoes. Most recipes include milk and cream, but Portico’s version is milk-free. Escamilla thinks it’s outdated and unnecessary due to richer meats used in modern Bolognese.
“And we include more vegetables in ours because Paolo’s grandmother made it that way. It’s homey and very nutritious with all those vegetables,” she said. And unlike other tomato-based sauces, Bolognese isn’t bright red, but a duller brown with strained tomatoes as a background note, she added.
Pasta Bolognese at Portico restaurant in Sebastopol (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
The pasta also differs entirely from American-style dried pasta, made with wheat and water. Pedrinazzi adds eggs to his pasta for a richer flavor, which is common in Bologna.
“We like to keep in line with tradition,” Escamilla said.
Their traditions also include the social aspect of Italian meals, which are enjoyed slowly and with friends. For four years before opening the restaurant, the couple threw Italian dinner parties with friends, something Escamilla equates with the longtime customers attending monthly regional dinners at the restaurant and trips to Italy with the couple.
“In this age of AI, human connection is so important, and there’s such a tight connection between culture and cuisine,” she said.
Kathleen Escamilla and Paolo Pedrinazzi at Portico in Sebastopol, Wednesday, April 24, 2024. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Best bets
Vegetarian Antipasti, $18: Though it sounds a bit ho-hum, you’ll find an ever-changing selection of roasted peppers, tomatoes with rosemary and mozzarella, and the crave-worthy artichoke dip.
Ragu Bolognese with Tagliatelle, $20: The praises have been sung. Thick strands of homemade pasta hold onto the chunks of carrots and green pepper, with ground beef and pork taking center stage. Portions are reasonable — neither too much nor too little.
Lasagna Bolognese, $20: Crepe-thin layers of pasta with ragu, béchamel sauce and Parmesan cheese. Also available in a vegetarian version.
Pappardelle Pasta with Saffron Cream, $24: Extra-wide strips of fresh pasta bathed in golden saffron cream are exactly as good as they sound.
Tiramisu at Portico restaurant in Sebastopol (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Tiramisu, $8: A hefty slice of this espresso-soaked dessert made with mascarpone rather than whipped cream. The sweetness is toned down, making it a calorie-worthy dessert without the sugar shock.
Many dishes are available for takeout. Order online at porticosocialfood.com. Portico is open from 4 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday and offers indoor and patio options. Regional dinner parties are held on the first Wednesday of the month. 100 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-888-9136.
Quesabirria Plate at El Fogon Taco Shop in Santa Rosa on Friday, April 14, 2023. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
My buddy Ana is a serious quesabirria fan and swears that Mi Ranchito in Larkfield is the hands-down winner for her.
That’s a tall order, my friend, since I’ve had my share of these long-simmered beef tacos dunked into their chile-laden broth, stuffed with cheese and grilled to a bubbly brown.
I gotta say, I’m a die-hard fan of Galvan’s Eatery and Jalapeño Mexican Grill (both food trucks) for the drippy, messy, delicious versions that have stained many a shirt and may be the mystery stain on my car’s seat belt.
But I’m giving a giant thumbs-up to Mi Ranchito for the lacy bits of caramelized cheese, butter-soft meat, and grill-kissed quesabirria that arrive with a steaming cup of consommé, pickled red onion, tomatillo salsa and a naughty chile and tomato salsa that’s nuclear spicy.
I was immediately sold, not in small part due to their tidy presentation.
The flavors impressed, and I’ll be back for more, even though they insistently dripped down my shirt, just like their sloppy taco truck cousins.
Seismic Brewing Co. brewmaster Andy Hopper, left, talks beer with Seismic’s staff, Friday, June 28, 2019 prior to a soft opening of the brew pub at the Barlow Center in Sebastopol. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat) 2019
Bite Club Question of the Week
You ask, I’ll find out. Send your queries on new restaurants, insider tips, or curious food-related goings-on to me at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. I also love to hear where you think I should dine next.
This week, Dana asks: “I live in Sebastopol and drive past The Barlow pretty much every day. This week I’ve noticed some activity in the corner property that used to be Seismic Brewing. Do you have any idea what might be going into that space?”
Barlow owner Barney Aldridge said the space will become a burger, milkshake and ice cream spot called Cock Robin.
If you’re a Chicago native of a certain age, you may remember Cock Robin from childhood, as Aldridge did.
He said that, as a kid, he and his family, grandparents, uncles, aunts and cousins used to hang out at the beloved hamburger stand until it closed in the 1980s.
Aldridge bought the trademark and hoped to bring some of his Midwest childhood to Sebastopol. No opening date but stay tuned for more details.
Omar Galvan delivers an order from the pickup window at Galvan’s Eatery in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
Over 40 food vendors will converge from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday, May 5, when the Fork’n Good Food Festival returns to SOMO Village in Rohnert Park.
Hosted by the SoCo Market folks (who know how to assemble some tasty food trucks), the list of eats is frighteningly extensive. There are lots of familiar food slingers, including Bite Club-approved Api Hot Chicken, Buns y Garnachas, Galvan’s Eatery (you know where I’ll be), Lila’s Streetside Eats, Nellie’s Oysters, Tacos Don Pepe, The Real Chamoy, The Wurst, and War Pigs BBQ. On my list to try are D’Grobak (Indonesian street food), Chavas wood-fired pizza, Patayas Locas aguas frescas and Porchetta Toscana (Italian porchetta).
According to organizers, many vendors will offer $5 samples so you can cram even more food into your face.
Foggy morning at Bodega Bay via Pacific Coast Highway in Sonoma County, California, USA.
Every spring unveils an awakening along the rural back roads of Sonoma County. Vineyards striped in yellow mustard give way to pink flashes of plum blossoms as quilted patterns of wildflowers return to the fields in purple and gold.
As we thaw out from a long winter, the need to bask in the sun feels strong. Make a beeline directly to the source — where the crabs are harvested, the cheese is aged, and the vineyard cover crops flower. This is a time to celebrate life: bowlegged lambs playing king of the mountain, baby seal pups lumbering across a beach, a young kingfisher teetering on a telephone line.
These three spring drives delve into the bounty of the county. Compare clam chowders along the coast in Bodega Bay and Jenner, nibble on fresh cheeses amid the green pastures of west Petaluma, or take in budbreak and wildflower season in the sister valleys of Dry Creek and Alexander, just outside Healdsburg. Because spring is meant for exploration and discovery — and a meander along our rural country roads feels just right, right now.
Fueled by winter rains, wildflowers blanket hillsides all over the county in spring. (Tom Greco)
Wildflowers & Wine
Dry Creek Valley to Alexander Valley, Healdsburg
Dry Creek Valley, west of Healdsburg, is a place steeped in rustic highs and lows, where A. Rafanelli Winery sells coveted $140 Cabs while weeds grow through rusted farm equipment retired beside the road. Starting off on Highway 101 near Healdsburg, head west on Dry Creek Road, where “tractor crossing” notices give way to peace signs and placards reading “Eggs $5 a Dozen” are mounted on barns.
The landmark 1881 Dry Creek General Store is well-stocked with hearty takeout fuel for the road, from spicy chorizo breakfast burritos to the Bark Shark’s slow-cooked brisket sandwich. And no Dry Creek spring jaunt is complete without a trip to Preston Farm & Winery, where peach and plum trees are beginning to blossom, bees are buzzing in the mustard, and farmer Kristin Morrison looks forward to transitioning from a long winter in the greenhouse. The farm store sells everything from eggs and dried peppers to the popular Guadagni jug wine (a delicious Zin blend)— plus the farm’s own line of organic marigold and gourd seeds, sold “by the pinch.”
Along with Preston, Mounts Family Winery is the epitome of all that is salt-of-the-earth and unpretentious about Dry Creek Valley. Just ask winery dogs Lewie and Scrappy, who spend all day chasing after rabbits. This is the time of year when owner Lana Mounts enjoys watching their 50-year-old fig tree come to life near the tasting room. “As the buds open, the tree is laced with leaves that resemble butterflies,” she says. “It’s as if hundreds of green butterflies are perched on the branches.” Look for the winery’s April release of Grenache and Petite Syrah, along with rarer Rhône varietals Clairette Blanche and Counoise.
At the upper reach of the valley, past the dam at Lake Sonoma Recreation Area, take time out from eating and tasting for a stunning hike. The out-and-back trail from the Little Flat parking area to Bummer Peak packs a punch, tracking through oak and manzanita woodlands before topping out at unmatched views of the entire valley. It’s a fitting finish in Dry Creek before connecting over Canyon Road to Geyserville, the gateway to Alexander Valley.
Silver Oak winery in Healdsburg. (Silver Oak)
In Geyserville, you’ll face one of the toughest decisions of the day: Truffle fries and ten-layer lasagna at Catelli’s or prosciutto-and-funghi pie at Diavola Pizzeria. Rolling through on the weekends, keep an ear out for local musician Pat Simmons (not to be confused with the Doobie Brothers guitarist) playing keyboards in the parking lot next to Bosworth & Son western wear shop, where you can always score a sweet Stetson.
Wandering back toward Healdsburg via Highway 128, some of the best Alexander Valley lookouts are at Robert Young Estate Winery’s Scion House and from the sweeping deck overlooking the vineyards at Hanna Winery. A stop at Silver Oak is a must, not only for world-class Cabernet Sauvignon, but to marvel at one of the most sustainable wineries in the world. The vast solar array on the roof supplies energy, and underground tanks irrigate the 75-acre vineyard with harvested rain water.
Practically next door, Alexander Valley Vineyards never misses a chance to celebrate the March 15 birthday of valley namesake Cyrus Alexander each year with the release of their newest Cyrus Bordeaux blend. Spring is winery co-owner Harry Wetzel’s favorite time of the year. In a battle of floras, the hills turn a bright Irish green, he says, “but in many places the wildflowers actually overpower the green hues and turn the hills yellow. Not golden like the dried grasses of the summer, but mustard-yellow, purple, orange, and white.”
Preston Farm & Winery, 9282 W. Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-3372, prestonfarmandwinery.com
Mounts Family Winery, 3901 Wine Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-292-8148, mountswinery.com
The Bummer Peak Hike starts at the Little Flat trailhead at Lake Sonoma Recreation Area. 4.7 miles roundtrip with a moderate climb. Take Dry Creek Road to Rockpile Road. Park in the Little Flat lot, on the right just after you go over the bridge. alltrails.com
Alexander Valley Vineyards, 8644 Highway 128, Healdsburg, 707-433-7209, avvwine.com
Photo by John Beck.A bucolic scene along Chileno Valley Road. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Family Farms & Fresh Cheeses
Chileno Valley to Spring Hill Loop, Petaluma
Think of this breezy drive through low-lying pasturelands as a celebration of all things dairy, in a valley once settled by Chilean immigrants, where locals love their cheeses, their wines, and even their precious native newts. As you head out from downtown Petaluma on Western Avenue, the best morning pit stop is at the bright yellow, two-story Petaluma Creamery, which looks like it could play an old-timey hotel on the set of a TV western. Purveyor of all-organic Spring Hill cheeses, butter, and eggs, it’s also a great spot to pick up a panini or tri-tip sandwich for the road. And the garlic curds make ideal picnic poppers because you don’t have to slice them.
Or for a deeper dive into specialty sandos, like Frederick’s Chicabacon, Ray’s Delicatessen is just a few blocks down the road on the right.
Before you get to Chileno Valley Road, hang a quick right on Chapman Lane, where Rick and JoAnn Wallenstein run the Lavender Bee Farm. Make an appointment to visit the farm store and taste honeys and other products made from lavender, which starts to bloom around the first week of June.
Soon after turning left on Chileno Valley Road, you’ll hit the spring spectacle of green rolling hills and oaks leafing out at Helen Putnam Regional Park. The 216-acre preserve boasts six miles of trails, with panoramic views, picnic spots, and even a chance to wet a line for bluegill and bass in Cattail Pond.
Wheels of goat cheese rest in the Achadinha Cheese Company aging room. (Christopher Chung)Donna Pacheco with one of her newborn Nubian goats at Achadinha Cheese Company in Petaluma. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)
Just down the road on the right, lies cheese heaven: The Achadinha Cheese Company, which takes its name from the tiny Portuguese town (say “Osh-a-deen-a”) where the owners, the Pacheco family, has roots. “Life is never calm during kidding season,” says Donna Pacheco, who looks forward to the spring arrival of baby goats. “The girls” on this 230-acre farm supplement their diet of lush spring grasses with brewer’s grain from Bear Republic and Russian River Brewing Company, producing milk for a stunning array of cheeses. Prep your taste buds for the nutty Cowpricious, aged on cedar planks; the ripe Portuguese Broncha, a Greek-style feta; and the yogurty kefir. And Achadinha has to be the only cheese company around to sell a DIY poutine kit in celebration of the gravy-drenched, late-night Canadian hangover food.
Further down the road, past Moreda Family Farms, you’ll start to see “Newt Crossing” signs just before Laguna Lake appears on the right. The signs are a testament to environmentally conscious locals who banded together as the Chileno Valley Newt Brigade to shepherd low-and-slow-moving California newts safely across the road to breeding grounds in the laguna. Along the way, don’t miss a chance to photograph the well-preserved and still-operating Laguna School, a one-room schoolhouse with a bell tower, built in 1906.
After turning briefly onto Tomales Road, head back toward town on the narrow, endlessly potholed Spring Hill Road, where Azari Vineyards sits tucked away. An appointment is necessary, but it’s definitely worth it in spring, when the plum and quince trees are blossoming, says Parichehr Azari, who makes fruit roll-ups from the bounty to give to wine club members. Born in Iran, Parichehr and her husband Kamal run the 35-acre farm, making their own olive oil and a delicate Pinot Noir (look for the new 2017 release) that captures the essence of the foggy Petaluma Gap appellation.
Looping back to Petaluma, you might be hungrier for more than just another scoop of lavender ice cream back at the Petaluma Creamery, though that’s always welcome. For something more substantial, check out hotspot Table Culture Provisions. Chefs Stephane Saint Louis and Steven Vargas dream up a new menu each day, making full use of the local springtime best.
Behold what might be the most Instagrammed road trip of all. Nearly every turn along this famous stretch of Highway 1 spotlights a jaw-dropping coastal vista — and don’t worry if you miss one, for there will always be another pullout just ahead.
Arrive in Bodega Bay in the morning for an early hike along the narrow straits of the Pinnacle Gulch Trail (check tides first). Hidden within the Bodega Harbour golf course subdivision, this trail is an often-overlooked gem of the regional park system. After, at the south end of Bodega Bay just as you enter town, Sonoma Coast Vineyards offers self-guided flights for two with pre-poured carafes. The winery has just released an excellent 2020 rosé.
Then, hungry from the morning’s jaunts, it’s time for a challenge — let’s call it the crab-n-clam taste test. First, split a bowl of clam chowder and a crab roll with a friend at Spud Point Crab Company, the tiny seafood shack across from Spud Point Marina on Westshore Road in Bodega Bay.
Then hop in the car and wind ten miles north to split the same combo at Cafe Aquatica in Jenner — and hold a Food Network-worthy debate over the winner. My money is on the Café Aquatica crab roll, with fresh Dungeness mixed with celery — and not too much aioli — on a bed of arugula, holding down a brioche roll with housemade pickles. It’s a tad more complex than its Spud Point doppelganger, which, while more abundant and bready, veers into the Thousand-Island-secret-sauce category. That said, I’m almost split on the clam chowder, with Spud Point literally tipping the scales with more butter and cream.
Carol Anello’s clam chowder at the Spud Point Crab Company on Bodega Bay. (John Burgess)Fresh wild salmon from Terrapin Creek restaurant in Bodega Bay. (Chris Hardy)
But by far the most creative and renowned cuisine is served at the only area restaurant to earn a Michelin star, is served at Bodega Bay’s Terrapin Creek Cafe. Tucked in a tiny strip mall along Eastshore Road on the way down to the marina, the 35-seat restaurant was closed this past winter. But chef Andrew Truong plans to reopen in mid-March, reviving his beloved charred octopus salads and lobster rolls. March is the time “we normally start seeing asparagus and English peas in the market,” says Truong, who prepares roast asparagus salads and lamb sausage with peas, feta, and mint. For spring, he also likes pan-roasted halibut with sautéed asparagus and mushrooms.
Along the drive from Bodega Bay to Jenner, two of the best beaches are Portuguese and Schoolhouse, which offer sandy expanses for kite flying, though definitely keep a look out for sneaker waves. And for a stellar vista not far out of Bodega Bay, turn right on Coleman Valley Road and head inland for about a mile. As the road plateaus, there are plenty of turnouts to look back at the big blue stretching out for miles.
On the left just before the bridge into Jenner, catch a popular weekend plant sale in front of the RV park. And in Jenner itself, across from Café Aquatica in the gas station parking lot, you can rent kayaks from Watertreks, which is a great way to see river otters, harbor seals, and sea lions up close.
Just north of downtown, the Jenner Headlands Preserve is a 5,630-acre coastal hiking paradise, with a mounted telescope for whale watching, a creek crossing, plenty of redwoods and Douglas firs, and, for the truly gung-ho, the chance to bag a major peak with the 7.5-mile round-trip hike up 2,204-foot Pole Mountain.
At the end of the day, kick off your hiking boots and relax with a glass of wine at River’s End, perched high on a cliff above Jenner. Before you leave, take a sunset selfie with a relic from the past in the River’s End parking lot — a rare working pay phone with one of the most epic views around.
Cloud virga punctuates a balmy colorful hike at the Bodega Head. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
White Pinot Noir is rare, but its interest is definitely budding, especially among select winemakers in Sonoma and Mendocino counties, like Emeritus Vineyards. (Leslie Roberts/Emeritus Vineyards)
With a long career as a key varietal in the making of Champagne, Pinot Noir is no stranger to being stripped of its purple skin. The grape’s interior green flesh is traditionally pressed, fermented, and bubbled into one of the world’s most celebratory beverages.
But what would happen if the juice wasn’t filled with fizz? The answer is white Pinot Noir—a crisp, white oxymoron in a glass.
When red grapes are crushed, the heavily pigmented skins can be separated immediately from the pale juice to make a white wine. If the juice was left to briefly comingle with its skins, you’d have a rosé, and if left to fully macerate on the skins, you’d have a traditional Pinot Noir.
Because the grapes for a white Pinot Noir are generally picked earlier than they’d be if making a red wine, white Pinot Noir has a refreshing acidity that works well with many foods.
Winemaker Shalini Sekhar of Waits-Mast winery likes to capture the bright freshness of the wine by fermenting and aging it in stainless steel. She finds the intertwining aromas of fresh citrus and distinct red cherries to be intriguing.
“There is a hint of red fruit that stands out, even though it’s a white wine,” Sekhar said. “White Pinot Noir may seem like an intellectual exercise, but it makes some damn delicious wine.”
A bottle of Emeritus Vineyards Hallberg Blanc pinot noir in Sebastopol. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
Mari Jones, president of Emeritus Vineyards in Sebastopol, a longtime producer of well-regarded traditional Pinot Noir, had to convince her father, Chardonnay pioneer Brice Cutrer Jones, that a project with white Pinot was worth trying. “He’s always felt that all our wines should offer the best, highest expression of our vineyards, and he didn’t think a white Pinot Noir could do that,” explains Jones.
But during the 2017 harvest, her team came across some fruit they thought could make a delicious white. That first try was a success, and Jones has since released several other vintages. “The wine has all these things you would never associate with red Pinot Noir, like tropical flowers, white fruits and peach blossom,” she says. “It’s a serious wine that’s complex and interesting, but it’s also easy to drink.”
Sekhar agrees. “You can make a white wine from other red grapes, but I don’t think you get the same sense of it being a complete wine,” she says. “Pinot Noir is so expressive, so it’s not surprising that a white wine made with the grape would be equally so.”
Four White Pinots to Try
Emeritus Vineyards, 2022 Hallberg Ranch Blanc, Russian River Valley, $44: Crafted from nine Pinot Noir clones at Hallberg Ranch, this white Pinot Noir envelops the palate in layers of white peach, white strawberry, and lemon curd. On the long finish are notes of corn silk and ginger candy. Serve cool, not cold. emeritusvineyards.com
Maggy Hawk, 2022 White Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, $60: Aromas of Rainier cherry, sea salt, and Bartlett pear precede a bright acidity that runs through the center of the palate. Flavors of apricot, lemongrass, and grapefruit rind lead to a long, lingering finish. maggyhawk.com
Waits-Mast, 2022 Pinot Noir Blanc, Filigreen Farm, Anderson Valley, $42: Pale gold in color with aromas of Meyer lemon and white nectarine and a hint of cumin. The structured, slightly fleshy palate offers mandarin orange pith and citrus fruit with electric acidity. waitsmast.com
Schug Estate Winery, 2022 White Pinot Noir, Carneros, $46: Barrel-fermented and aged sur lie for five months in neutral French oak. Flavors of stone fruit, honeysuckle, wild strawberries, and white peach followed by exotic notes of quince, kiwi, and orange zest. schugwinery.com
Though Occidental’s Stephanie Lee is the founder of a fast-growing skin care brand touted in Forbes and Cosmopolitan, she’s also well acquainted with the down-to-earth vibe of rural west county, where she and her husband are fixing up a house in the redwoods. “I got my first chainsaw for Christmas,” laughs Lee as she details the many wonders of Occidental’s old-timey hardware store.
Lee has always been a bit of an overachiever. Shortly after college, she rocketed to the White House as a member of the staff of first lady Michelle Obama, and later built a career in product development at a big-name cosmetics company in New York. But after navigating a mental health crisis, Lee left the city to travel the world for a year and recalibrate her goals, visiting 11 countries and 16 states.
She launched her business, Selfmade, (beselfmade.co) in 2020 to connect skin care products to current research into emotional well-being and resiliency. Living in Sonoma has been a boon to her creativity, as she and her husband build even deeper ties within their community.
Here are some of Stephanie Lee’s favorite Sonoma County spots:
“I go to Negri’s every single Friday. It feels like Cheers—like, hi guys,” says Lee. She usually has fettuccine with chicken and always, always orders Sandy Negri’s housemade cheesecake. “I like to think of myself as pretty much a professional dessert-taster now!” 3700 Bohemian Hwy., Occidental. 707-874-0301, negrisrestaurant.com
Negri’s restaurant in Occidental. (Beth Schlanker/Sonoma Magazine)Stephanie Lee, founder of Selfmade. (Savannah Ruedy)
Lee and her husband both volunteer at the nonprofit Occidental Center for the Arts. The center’s iconic Fool’s Parade will march through town every April. 3850 Doris Murphy Ct., Occidental. occidentalcenterforthearts.org
Lee and her husband have two dogs, so the nearby Grove of Old Trees is a favorite spot. “It’s very magical— the fact that the trees talk to each other underground and grow in fairy circles. It’s a reflective experience.” 17599 Fitzpatrick Lane, Occidental. landpaths.org
Lee first hit up Café Aquatica for a smoked salmon bagel when she and her husband were scouting the area before their move from New York. “There’s always someone singing on the stage, and there’s the river and the ocean beyond—beautiful.” 10439 Hwy. 1, Jenner. 707-865-2251, cafeaquaticajenner.com
Cafe Aquatica in Jenner. (Sonoma County Tourism)
On her zippy Vespa scooter, Lee loves two classic Sonoma spring drives. First, taking the back roads from Occidental through Graton to Healdsburg (Laguna Road to Trenton-Healdsburg Road to Eastside Road) past rolling vineyards and oak trees leafing out. And also, on the way out to the coast, she loves the green hills from Valley Ford to Dillon Beach. “I always take my family on this drive when they visit. It’s like what it would look like a hundred years ago.”
