Alice Waters is my Taylor Swift. The food revolutionary and legendary owner of Chez Panisse brought farms and farmers to the table in a way that changed the trajectory of dining in America. Her food tells the story of seasons, fleeting moments and perfect peaches. And I might faint if I actually got to meet her.

Waters, along with culinary rock stars Kyle and Katina Connaughton of Michelin-starred SingleThread, legendary dairy farmer Albert Straus and radish whisperer Tucker Taylor, aka Farmer T of Kendall-Jackson Wine Estates, will discuss food and farming on several educational panels during the 51st annual Gravenstein Apple Fair (Aug. 10-11) at Ragle Ranch Park in Sebastopol.

Also on the roster: Author and activist Dan Imhoff, Elizabeth Kaiser of Singing Frogs Farm, Hector Alvarez of Hector’s Honey Farm and Sarah Silva of Green Star Farm.

But you don’t have to be a food nerd to have fun at this family-friendly, “ag-tastic” celebration of one of Sonoma’s oldest and most endearing crops (not to mention increasingly endangered).

Celebrate the famous Gravenstein apple and its many heirloom cousins with harvests from 40 small-scale apple farms, local cider makers, apple pie makers, crafters, musicians, cute farm critters and amazing noshes that never disappoint. One of the best bets is to grab a $55-ticket to the Artisan Alley for additional nibbles, drinks (and way shorter lines).

General admission tickets are $30 at the gate, but you can get a family pass for two adults and two children for $55 in advance. VIP tickets for $150 let you skip the lines and offer dedicated shaded seating — something well worth the price tag on blazing summer days.

Stay tuned for more details about the chef lineup, vendors, where to find Waters, and the rest of the superstar food crew. Tickets are now on sale at gravensteinapplefair.com.

Though our table was little more than a stained wood plank stretched between towering oaks, it was the best seat in the house. As spring-picked asparagus toast, frittata and piles of greens made their way to us from The Wild Poppy Cafe’s tiny kitchen, we clinked our mimosas and drank in the moment. And the cocktails.

The rambling outdoor patio of this perfectly imperfect Sebastopol restaurant (formerly Fork Roadhouse) has always been a magical place, full of nooks, crannies and hidden spaces to explore. And on a lovely west county morning perfumed with a hint of salt air, the space comes alive as rays of sunshine peek through the creekside canopy shading the outdoor patio; water bubbles distantly as it runs along ivy-covered banks, and mothers hum to toddlers in time with the Flamenco guitarist.

These moments drive home why Luther Burbank called our little slice of heaven “the chosen spot of all the earth.” His Gold Ridge Experiment Farm, where he developed more than 800 varieties of fruit and nut trees, flowers and vegetables, is just a few miles away (7777 Bodega Ave., Sebastopol). Traveling from Sebastopol toward Bodega Bay, you’ll pass acres of orchards and, if you’re lucky, see wild poppies growing along the road.

The journey to Wild Poppy is the destination when making the trek, which has always been a blessing and a curse for this west county location. Located well west of Sebastopol, you won’t stumble upon it unless you’re headed to or from the coast. But it’s well worth the detour, like Wild Flour Bakery in Freestone, Altamont General Store in Occidental, Americana or Rocker Oysterfeller’s in Valley Ford.

Wild Poppy opened in late April with chef Martin Maigaard, formerly of the Gypsy Cafe (now closed), helming the kitchen. The cafe is a family affair, with his wife, Danielle, working front of house with her sister, Emily. Chef Maigaard gets a hand in the kitchen from Emily’s partner, Andrew, and the Maigaards’ daughter, Anya, works as a food runner and baker (the chocolate chip cookies are her recipe).

Though locals had plenty to say about the vivid sky-blue exterior paint that replaced the quiet brick red on the roadhouse last winter, it certainly catches the eye with crisp white trim.

The menu changes frequently, but you’ll always find something to accompany you on the patio, including several vegetarian and vegan dishes. Indoor seating is also available. A small market is tucked into the cafe, offering wine, snacks and a collection of locally sourced clothing and gifts.

Wild Poppy is a welcome addition to the burgeoning west county food scene and a perfect breakfast and brunch pit stop for beachgoers.

Best Bets

Cosmic Queso ($12): Freshly made corn chips with a crisp crunch are the foundation for creamy cashew queso dip, a swirl of pepita chimichurri and a side of slaw. Shareable and highly addictive.

Kale Caesar ($13 full, $8 half): Piles of massaged kale (to soften the tough leaves) mixed with tart lemon-almond vinaigrette and Parmesan breadcrumbs. Simple but satisfying.

Baja Fish Tacos ($16): Cornmeal-fried rock cod is super tasty and gluten-free. Served on organic corn tortillas with yogurt, cilantro sauce and pepita chimichurri. Ours could have used more cilantro sauce; otherwise, it’s impressive.

Grilled Mushroom Sandwich, $16: If you’re a mycelium fan, this is a winner. Served on housemade focaccia with grilled mushrooms, walnut mushroom pate, microgreens, lemon aioli and frisky Mt. Tam cheese.

Daily Baked Goods: A mix of homemade pastries, including scones, focaccia and Anya’s chocolate chip cookies, are ideal companions for a day at the beach or an afternoon snack.

Wine, beer and nonalcoholic beverages are available, and a morning mimosa with fresh orange juice helps greet the day sweetly.

Open for brunch and lunch 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. 9890 Bodega Highway, Sebastopol, 707-503-6332, thewildpoppycafe.com.

For two long years, chef Craig Wilmer closely followed the transitions at Forestville’s legendary Farmhouse Inn.

Chef Steve Litke’s departure in late 2021 signaled a changing of the guard at a restaurant that had remained among Sonoma County’s most impressive for more than two decades and received 14 consecutive Michelin stars between 2007 and 2021.

Filling Litke’s shoes and meeting the expectations of diners who had enjoyed signature dishes like “Rabbit, Rabbit, Rabbit” (rabbit prepared three ways) for more than 20 years wasn’t an easy feat.

But Wilmer, who then worked at the Michelin-starred Barndiva in Healdsburg, saw the intimate Forestville restaurant as something of a unicorn. After all, taking over the kitchen of a Michelin-ranked establishment like the Farmhouse Inn, with carte blanche to redefine the dining experience, is a chef’s dream.

“Usually, you have to open your own,” said Wilmer, sitting at one of the restaurant’s sturdy farm tables on a recent afternoon. An alum of renowned eateries, including Napa Valley’s Auberge du Soleil and San Francisco’s Coi, he was used to working under other celebrated chefs.

But last May, after parting ways with two other chefs, Farmhouse Inn owners Catherine and Joe Bartolomei invited Wilmer and his wife, Amanda Hoang, to take over the kitchen at their famed restaurant.

One year later, Wilmer says he’s finding his voice on the upscale tasting menu and building a culinary team he’s proud of.

“Starting was pretty daunting. There are challenges, and you can’t build everything in a day. There were things I wanted to do the first year that we just didn’t have the skill to execute,” he said.

Seemingly simple dishes like spring asparagus are peeled with a razor blade to remove the tough fibers. Tiny squabs are dry-aged for 14 to 21 days and finished on a charcoal grill. Like ephemeral works of art, each course has hundreds of unseen brush strokes of sourcing, foraging and preparation that, when revealed, make every bite all the more precious.

Enthusiastic — like very enthusiastic — wine pairings from Wine Director Jared Hooper elevate the experience exponentially. Offbeat finds from around the world, like the 2022 Processus made in South Africa with rare Maria Gomes grapes, pair beautifully with a single oyster nestled into a tiny abalone shell.

The $275-per-person price tag (excluding wine) for the six-course tasting menu is steep, even by Sonoma County standards. This isn’t a dining experience for every budget, and there is no a la carte option, so keep that in mind. (Most dietary restrictions can be accommodated with a 72-hour notice.)

Wilmer has curated a more casual experience at the inn’s Farmstand restaurant, which recently reopened for the season. The lunch and dinner spot is open to the public and features elevated woodfired pizzas, panko-crusted chicken Parmesan, a charred Caesar salad, seasonal artichokes with clarified butter, and gingerbread cake with candied ginger and poached pears. Ingredients are sourced locally, sometimes from Joe Bartolomei’s garden. It’s one of the most underrated (and under the radar) lunch spots in Sonoma County.

The inn’s recent partnership with Sonoma Valley entrepreneur and vintner Bill Foley’s Entertainment Group is paving the way for an expansion of the luxury resort and a cash infusion that, hopefully, will also translate into continued support for Wilmer’s creativity in the kitchen.

After one year at the helm of Farmhouse Inn’s restaurants, chef Wilmer is undoubtedly a rising star in the Sonoma County dining scene, offering high-end as well as casual options near Healdsburg. We look forward to seeing what his team has in store.

Farmhouse Inn is at 7871 River Road in Forestville. Reservations are available at 707-887-3300 or online at farmhouseinn.com

The Good Food Foundation has announced this year’s “Good Food Award” winners at an event in Portland, Oregon. Among the winners this year were 16 food, cider and spirit producers in the North Bay, which were ranked among the best of the best.

The arbiter of taste for artisan producers, the Good Food Awards sift through thousands of entries each year—from honey and snacks to charcuterie and beer—to find the up-and-coming makers to watch. Winning this annual award can give these small, usually family-owned businesses a broader audience and the attention of foodies.

The award categories include beer, charcuterie, cheese, chocolate, cider, coffee, confections, drinks, elixirs, fish, grains, honey, oils, pantry items, pickles, preserves, snacks and spirits. Each submission is blind-tasted by a panel of professional food and beverage judges. These judges are looking for sustainably made, socially conscious, credibly crafted items that are an “honest reflection of the best food and drink in America,” according to the Good Food Foundation.

Here are this year’s winners in Sonoma, Napa, Marin and Mendocino counties.

Canteen Meats, Beef Cecina (Petaluma): This up-and-comer from Petaluma impressed judges with its salt-cured and cold-smoked beef round from nearby Silver Sky Ranch and Beffa Springs. Their locally sourced charcuterie is available at their retail shop on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays (304 Bodega Ave., Petaluma), the West Marin Culture Shop in Point Reyes or online at canteenmeats.com.

Gold Ridge Organic Farms, Picholine Blend Extra Virgin (Sebastopol): In 2000, founder-farmer Brooke Hazen planted 70 acres of olives, 16 acres of heirloom apples, citrus fruit and lavender on his rambling farm. Hazen is passionate about everything he grows, and guests are invited to experience the farm via reservations. Frequent events include olive oil tastings, pizza pop-ups and apple tasting. Available at goldridgeorganicfarms.com.

Spirit Works Distillery, Barrel Gin and Four Grain Straight Bourbon (Sebastopol): Known for their Sonoma County-made gin and bourbon, Timo and Ashley Marshall have worked for more than a decade to perfect their spirits. The distillery recently left its longtime home at The Barlow in Sebastopol and has yet to announce a new location. Available at spiritworksdistillery.com.

Clif Family Napa Valley, Organic Meyer Lemon Marmalade (St. Helena): The founders of Clif Bars opened a winery and tasting room in 2012. They now offer wine tastings, a food truck and preserved fruits and veggies. Their tart-sweet marmalade is made in small batches with Meyer Lemons unique to the West Coast. It is available at cliffamily.com.

Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company, Bay Blue, TomaRashi, TomaTruffle (Point Reyes): Longtime cheesemakers from this women-owned Marin County dairy are always on the shortlist for awards. Their classic blue cheese, Bay Blue, got high marks, as did more recent additions, including a truffle-infused Toma and the sassy togarashi-infused Toma. Available from pointreyescheese.com.

Tomales Farmstead Creamery, Fortuna and Liwa (Tomales): Many of the cheeses at this 160-acre goat and sheep dairy pay homage to the Miwok tribes that once inhabited the area. Liwa, meaning “water,” is a soft chevre-style goat cheese. Buona Fortuna is a seasonal aged sheep’s milk cheese. Available at tolumafarms.com.

Mill Valley Pasta Co., Porcini Radiatore (San Rafael): A passion project from chef Tony Adams, this craft company was born during the pandemic. Out of work, Adams made fresh pasta for friends and family, later transitioning the home business to a brick and mortar. Available at the factory store, 555 Francisco Blvd. East, Suite 24, San Rafael or at millvalleypasta.com.

McFarland Springs Trout Dog (Sausalito): This McFarland Springs Trout hot dog on the Fish Restaurant Instagram page is dressed with housemade uni mustard and gypsy pepper relish. Available at Fish restaurant, 350 Harbor Dr., Sausalito.

Patagonia Provisions, Sourdough Sea Salt Organic Crackers (Sausalito): These crisp, delicious sourdough crackers, originally created by Moonshot Snacks, now come from Patagonia Provisions with no changes to the recipe. They are made with organic and regeneratively grown wheat from Washington State. They are available at patagoniaprovisions.com.

Pennyroyal Farm, Boont Corners Vintage Tomme (Boonville): Another frequent award winner, this goat’s milk cheese is inspired by the Boontiling name for where Highways 128 and 253 meet. Boontling is a regional dialect, now mostly lost, only spoken in the tiny Anderson Valley town of Boonville. Available at pennyroyalfarm.com.

Gowan’s Cider, 1876 Heirloom Cider and Sierra Beauty Cider (Philo): This small-production cider company sources apples from heritage orchards owned by the family. Sierra Bueaty Cider utilizes an extinct varietal from 1906. It is available at gowansheirloomcider.com.