The Pool House & Bar at The Sandman Hotel in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy Sandman Santa Rosa)
The Sandman Hotel, a mission-style property that opened in 1974, recently celebrated its 50th anniversary with a ’70s-themed party. Following a multi-million dollar renovation, the Sandman is experiencing a renaissance — evolving from a classic roadside motel into a reimagined boutique hotel.
The Sandman’s newly revamped guest rooms blend eclectic and vintage touches to create an aesthetically clean and soothing atmosphere. The rooms are designed with bespoke furniture from local artisans and feature elements like wood finishes, white walls, custom cotton blankets and peach-colored ceilings. Fido can join your stay, too, as the rooms are pet-friendly (for pets up to 50 pounds).
Room at The Sandman Hotel in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy Sandman Santa Rosa)A seating area in the lobby at The Sandman Hotel in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy Sandman Santa Rosa)
The fitness center has evolved with state-of-the-art equipment and modern design. The new Wellness Dome is designed as a sanctuary of zen, where peaceful rejuvenation leads to a complete wellness experience. Meditation and yoga sessions are available on Friday evenings and Sunday mornings, some of which include a glass of wine.
“The Wellness Dome is the only one of its kind in Sonoma County,” said general manager Mark Nelson. “It is attuned for sound, yoga and meditation, enabling guests to participate in their own spiritual path.”
The hotel also has a heated pool and hot tub, entirely enclosed by a redwood fence to provide privacy. The pool area is accessible to guests and non-guests, with day passes available through ResortPass.
The pool is accompanied by the Pool House & Bar, which serves food and drinks from Thursday to Sunday. The hotel launched a new partnership with Lazeaway Club (the restaurant at the Flamingo Resort & Spa) and chef Chris Ricketts to provide grab-and-go food items in the Pool House. Dishes include various salads, a kids pack and a poolside picnic pack with coppa, house pickles, marinated olives, Cypress Grove goat cheese and olive oil crackers. The drink menu features classic poolside cocktails like margaritas, piña coladas, micheladas, palomas and mojitos. The bar also has a big-screen TV, perfect for watching weekend sports while you sip and savor.
People inside the Pool House & Bar at The Sandman Hotel in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy Sandman Santa Rosa)Outdoor chairs surrounding a fire table at The Sandman Hotel in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy Sandman Santa Rosa)
A lush backyard features a bocce ball court surrounded by Adirondack chairs and fire tables for relaxed summer evenings. The hotel’s new guest lounge, open from 2 to 9 p.m. daily, contains multiple arcade games and an HDTV.
The finished product was a long time coming, with waves of changes over the last eight years. In May of 2017, The Sandman unveiled an extensive renovation, but it closed five months later due to the destructive Tubbs Fire, which caused smoke damage to over half of The Sandman’s 135 rooms.
When the COVID-19 pandemic hit in 2020, hotels across the U.S. saw drastically reduced occupancy rates. The Sandman stayed open and became a popular spot for locals with the introduction of its Summer Night event series.
Positioned minutes from downtown Santa Rosa, the hotel is an ideal jumping-off point to explore the wineries, fine dining and outdoor activities of the city and surrounding county.
“Santa Rosa has evolved from a farming town into the biggest city north of the Golden Gate Bridge,” said Stephen Yang, CEO of Bay Area real estate firm Yang Capital, which owns the property. “Sandman has seen massive population growth, housed many people impacted by the fires, and hopefully continues to be a place of community and a launchpad for visitors to discover the splendors of Sonoma County: wine, beer, horticulture and agriculture.”
Starting Sept. 5, the hotel will launch “Sandman Sips,” offering guests free wine, beer or spirit tastings at its partners’ tasting rooms. Official partners to date are Muscardini Cellars, Inman Family Wines, Seghesio Winery, Hobo Wine Company, Harvest Moon Winery, Battaglini Family Winery, D’Argenzio Family Winery, Fogbelt Brewing Company and Sonoma Brothers Distilling.
NY Pie has reopened in downtown Santa Rosa with new owners, a new look and great new pizza, Wednesday August. 21, 2024. Pizza by the slice or pie. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
For a generation of Santa Rosans, NY Pie was a staple of post-baseball game gatherings, family dinners, Friday night takeout and maybe even a date or two. So, fans were disappointed when the restaurant closed in late 2023 after nearly two decades.
In early January, new owners Doug Lyons and Freddie Peña promised NY Pie would return soon. Seven months later, the neighborhood pizzeria is back and better than ever.
Lyons is almost constantly in the restaurant, doing double duty as a server, busser and bartender. Raised on the East Coast, he knows plenty about New York-style pizza, even if he’s not a chef. After years in the business world, he’s made it his mission to improve the restaurant’s recipes, upgrading everything from the flour and cheese to the housemade tomato sauce.
NY Pie has reopened in downtown Santa Rosa with new owners, a new look and great new pizza, Wednesday August. 21, 2024. Pizza by the slice or pie. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
“It’s the crisp undercarriage — not too thick — with a chewy crust with a little rise. You have to have the right cheese-to-sauce ratio, not too much or too little. And you have to fold it,” said Lyons.
Every New Yorker worth their salt knows that the only way to eat a slice is to fold it in half. Otherwise, you’ll have a lap full of cheese and sauce because the bottom crust is intentionally thin.
Lyons and Peña, a lifelong local, were both former customers and jumped at the chance to take over the pizzeria from the previous owners.
“I knew we wanted to keep the good historical aspects of NY Pie and elevate it,” said Lyons.
Peña enjoys hearing people’s memories of the pizzeria, which opened in 2002.
NY Pie has reopened in downtown Santa Rosa with new owners, a new look and great new pizza, Wednesday August. 21, 2024. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
“Someone said they had their wedding reception here, and many New Yorkers have commented on how authentic it is. I’m just thankful that people are still in love with it and saying it’s better than ever,” he said.
Peña owns Windsor Fitness and is a retired Santa Rosa police officer.
“We have the police department coming in a lot,” he said.
Peña and Lyons overhauled the restaurant, giving it a fresher feel with new furniture and décor. If you’re lucky, you may hear the click-clack of a nostalgic split-flap Solari board turned beer menu — a nod to the arrival and departure board at Grand Central Terminal.
Longtime customers will recognize most of the pizza combinations, given different names. The former Godfather, with red sauce, mozzarella, pepperoni, sausage and artichoke hearts, is now the Longfellow Avenue. Instead of the Smelly Hockey Player, the mozzarella, garlic, onion and anchovy pie is the Union Square. Some specialty pies are more California than New York, including the Fulton St., with an olive oil-brushed crust, sauteed mushrooms, goat cheese and lemon zest.
NY Pie has reopened in downtown Santa Rosa with new owners, a new look and great new pizza, Wednesday August. 21, 2024. Pizza by the slice or pie. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
“We’re always New York, but we live in California so we are going to lean into seasonality with specialty pizzas,” said Lyons.
The restaurant sells slices, a quarter of a whole pie, throughout the day (a cheese slice is $5.25), and the lineup includes at least six different flavors. It’s a far cry from the early days of NY Pie when owner R.J. Iervolino refused to sell slices for a reason only he understood.
Wings, salads and garlic knots are also available, and the housemade ranch (all of the sauces and dressings are made at the restaurant) is a necessary (and wholly encouraged) condiment. In fact, at NY Pie, you can pour as much darn ranch, hot honey, chili flakes and Parmesan on your pizza as you want with absolutely no side-eye from a horrified pizzaiolo.
“As a local, I know the history, the following and how great it has been. I truly believe we’re here to stay. Local folks I know are really supportive and thankful NY Pie is still here,” said Peña. “I think together we’ve made it better. ”
NY Pie is at 65 Brookwood Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-526-9743. The hours are currently noon to 10 p.m. Sunday, Wednesday and Thursday and noon to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. The restaurant is closed Monday and Tuesday. Expanded hours will be announced soon.
The back patio at Flavor Bistro in Sebastopol. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Slated for a late summer opening, Sebastopol’s forthcoming Campanella Kitchen & Garden Patio has appointed Anthony Paone as its executive chef.
Like Campanella co-owner Tom Rutledge, Paone was raised in an Italian-American family in New York. A longtime Bay Area chef, he moved to Sonoma County for the Kenwood Restaurant (now Salt & Stone) relaunch in 2013. He most recently worked at Archetype in St. Helena and the Bull Valley Roadhouse in Port Costa.
Chef Anthony Paone and general manager Gillian Tyrnauer of Campanella Kitchen in Sebastopol. (Loren Hansen Photography)
Rutledge, who is a co-founder of hospitality-focused accounting firm RDMS Group in Petaluma, hopes to capture his childhood’s simple, comforting flavors at Campanella.
“This is a love letter to my grandma and the food I ate growing up. That is my happy flavor profile,” said Rutledge in April.
“I want a place that tastes like home. I guess I’m partially building a place to go eat myself,” he said of dishes such as chicken Parmesan, spaghetti and meatballs, and simple pizzas (a Mugnaini oven is being custom built). The restaurant will also include plant-based and allergy-friendly options for diners.
Gillian Tyrnauer will be Campanella’s general manager. She previously worked at Healdsburg SHED, Ramen Gaijin in Sebastopol and Journeyman Meats in Healdsburg, as well as Zuni and Quince restaurants in San Francisco and Oliveto in Oakland.
Bavarian pretzels at Tisza Bistro’s Beer Garden in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Fire up the oompah bands and gather ‘round for schnitzel sandwiches, ice-cold Pilseners and wurst, because the Beer Garden at Tisza Bistro in Healdsburg is open.
Though it’s just a handful of stout wooden tables, bistro seats under twinkle lights and Weihenstephan pennants (Germany’s oldest brewery), Munich is in the air at chef Krisztian Karkus’ Hungarian/German eatery.
“We’re moving a little more toward German food. People really recognize it,” said Karkus of the newly launched beer garden menu.
The al fresco space is open from noon to 5 p.m. Thursday, Friday, Sunday and Monday. Karkus and his wife/co-owner Alena Rebick also have a stand at the Healdsburg Farmers’ Market on Saturdays.
Schnitzel Sandwich at Tisza Bistro’s Beer Garden in Healdsburg. (Photos: Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
The small garden is bustling with diners even on a quiet Monday afternoon. Here, Karkus’ much-loved pork schnitzel comes in sandwich form between a split pretzel bun stuffed with creamy cucumber and a heavy dousing of tart lingonberry jam ($18). It’s messy through and through, which Karkus says is precisely the point: “I didn’t want it to look too perfect.” Served with a light summer salad and an easygoing Spaten Lager ($9), you’ll be fueled up for a marathon-length “Verdauungsspaziergang” (or digestion walk) around the Dry Creek Valley. Or at least to downtown Healdsburg’s Noble Folk for some ice cream.
The housemade bratwurst ($18) is a must-try, even if you’re not a huge sausage fan. Karkus’ pan-fried pork wurst puts the stuff at backyard barbecues to shame. In fact, I’ve never had a softer, more mellow brat that works perfectly with housemade sauerkraut and pillowy potato dumplings. It is served with a side of sourdough-fermented “sun pickles,” an Eastern European pickling method that uses the sun, salt, water and a slice of bread (and no vinegar) to create a tart but nonaggressive condiment.
Like a good lager or Kölsch, nothing on Karkus’ menu has to punch you in the taste buds to make an impression. However, watch out for the mustard served with the brats. It will flash flood your sinuses quicker than a desert rainstorm.
Currywurst at Tisza Bistro’s Beer Garden in Healdsburg. (Photos: Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
I’m also a fan of the currywurst ($18), made with the same bratwurst, sliced into pieces and laid over beer-battered fries and caramelized onions with a curry-spiked ketchup. This classic German street food can easily stand up to darker beers or even an IPA. Living up to its name, the beer garden has five German beers on tap, plus cans of Stiegl Radler (grapefruit juice and lager) and malty Korbinian.
You will, of course, need to order the fresh pretzels ($6), soft and chewy twists of dough with fat seeds of coarse salt. Karkus whispers an aside, “You don’t ever put mustard on pretzels.” He almost seems offended that anyone would suggest such a thing. Though, he points out they’re served in the beer garden with whole grain mustard and a ramekin of soft butter — the preferred condiment.
The menu also includes a cheeseburger ($20), grilled ham and cheese on sourdough ($17) or a simple chicken club ($19). There’s also an iceberg wedge salad ($16), fries doused in porcini mushroom sauce ($9) and German-style cheesecake with a pretzel graham crust ($10). Smoked salmon latkes ($17) from the dinner menu are also a winner.
The new beer garden is a quiet respite and a friendly spot where you’ll likely overhear local gossip (I hear a Healdsburg bakery is expanding just nearby). Or have a solitary moment with your thoughts and a cold beer. Either way, “Prost!” to Tisza Bistro’s tasty new outdoor offerings. Stay tuned for details on Tisza’s official Oktoberfest plans this fall.
A Mediterranean-style villa in Santa Rosa, with seven bedrooms and eight-and-a-half bathrooms, is currently listed for sale. The 7,313-square-foot home rests on 19.23 acres of rolling hills dense with oak trees. The asking price is $6,500,000.
Built in 2005, the dwelling has many signature elements of a villa, including the center pavilion with a pool, the covered corridor and lots of ironwork.
Courtyard pool. (Adam Potts)
Exposed beams and richly toned woodwork ornament the interior. The use of floor-to-ceiling glass tiles makes for a breathtaking bathroom. All rooms have ensuite bathrooms, and many have iron-rail balconies from which to enjoy nature views.
An outdoor kitchen, a pool and a nine-person jacuzzi provide lots to do outdoors. Large pocketing doors on opposing sides in the great room allow the spectacular outdoors to connect seamlessly to the inside.
For more information on this home villa at 1221 Shiloh Crest in Santa Rosa, contact listing agent Peter Colbert, 415-798-0203, Compass/Wine Country Colbert Group, winecountrycolbert.com
This newly constructed four-bedroom, five-and-a-half bathroom Sonoma home has a pool and multiple covered pavilions to accommodate a large group of guests. It is currently listed for $12,500,000. (Jacob Elliot)
A newly built Sonoma home on 3 acres is secluded from neighboring properties by two creeks and a dense surround of oaks, maples and an olive grove. The property is currently up for sale for $12,500,000.
The four bedroom, five-and-a-half bathroom dwelling on Fisher Lane centers around a pool and separate covered pavilions designed to accommodate large groups of guests.
The work of hospitality architect Juan-Diego Perez-Vargas, the L-shaped structure somewhat echoes the style of a modern longhouse with a steep gabled roof that runs the length of the home. It is clad in board-and-batten vertical siding. The home includes pitched interior ceilings, from 10 to 16 feet tall, as well as more intimate spaces. A large great room that houses the kitchen, dining and lounge areas.
Seating area in the great room. (Jacob Elliot)Wet bar accented with drip paintings by Francisco Valverde. (Jacob Elliot)
The use of beiges, blacks and whites create a tranquil palette. European white oak cabinets throughout give a gentle warmth and black quartzite counters offer graceful high-gloss contrast. White walls and the 10 to 16-foot ceilings lift the look. A restrained use of full-spectrum artworks – sculpture and drip paintings by Francisco Valverde — provide stunning blasts of color.
A loft and half-bathroom above the garage can function as guest quarters. Covered pavilions offer open-air lounging and dining areas to drink in the bucolic Sonoma setting. An outdoor kitchen features a grill and pizza oven.
For more information on 200 Fisher Lane, contact listing agents Joseph Zichelle, 415-279-2221, or Christine Krenos, 707-227-8661, Compass Real Estate, Krenoszichelle.com, 200fisher.com
The newly built home of Steve Lacy and Debbie Thomas in Alexander Valley. A two-story window connects to a stairway down to the guest room. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
Steve Lacy and Debbie Thomas spent three decades living and raising their daughters on the San Francisco Peninsula before building their dream home on a rural, undeveloped piece of property in the Alexander Valley.
“What put us in San Mateo were our jobs,” says Thomas, “but this is more us.”
The couple, who both work in the pharmaceutical industry, purchased the land in 2008, drawn to sweeping views across Alexander Valley, and the quiet location not too far from Healdsburg and other small Wine Country towns they love to explore.
The newly built home of Steve Lacy and Debbie Thomas in Alexander Valley. A two-story window connects to a stairway down to the guest room. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)The living room at the newly built home of Steve Lacy and Debbie Thomas in Alexander Valley. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
Lacy and Thomas essentially started from scratch — only some basic infrastructure and a small olive grove at the top of the ridge existed on the property at the time. But they knew the spot would give them the balance of privacy and proximity they were looking for.
“This stretch is known for being a favorite of cyclists in the summertime, and it’s only 3 miles from the Jimtown Store,” says Lacy.
“It’s reopening soon; we’re so excited,” says Thomas.
Initially, the couple built a small prefab cottage near the olive grove, visiting the property on weekends and holidays. In 2019, the Kincade Fire burned much of the surrounding landscape, though firefighters heroically saved the prefab house.
The couple replanted the burned olive grove, though many of the trees they thought were a total loss later started to grow back. Eventually, they embarked on building a new home, working with Chris Cahill of CahillStudio, builder Robin Guilfoyle of RobinWood Construction, and interior designer Emily Mughannam, creative director of Fletcher Rhodes in Sonoma.
The newly built home of Steve Lacy and Debbie Thomas in Alexander Valley. In the primary bath, a soaking tub with a view of the olive grove. The primary bath is located in a space that bumps out from the main volume of the house. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
The project took three years, finishing in late 2023. “Our relationship to the land really evolved over the course of it. This was not an easy property to build on,” says Lacy.
The availability of lumber, steel and other big-ticket items like windows affected timing and cost — but the couple say the stretched-out timeline brought a deeper understanding of what they were looking for.
Now, they revel in the way the new home meets their needs. “I love how open and light it is; the way it takes advantage of all the views,” says Thomas.
The home is extremely energy efficient, with solar panels and backup batteries, and was built with special siding and roofing to make it as fire-resistant as possible. Landscape architect Mike Lucas of Lucas + Lucas designed a dramatic waterfall seen through a two-story window in the main living space and helped forge strong connections to the outdoors on the upper deck and downstairs pool area.
The newly built home of Steve Lacy and Debbie Thomas in Alexander Valley. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)The newly built home of Steve Lacy and Debbie Thomas in Alexander Valley. Interior designer Emily Mughannam specified two complementary kitchen spaces on the main upper level of the home — a main kitchen, right, and a separate prep space and pantry tucked in behind. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
“It gets very hot here, but when the breeze comes up, the whole house opens up and it stays cool,” says Lacy. “You get these brilliant days and the most incredible sunsets over the valley.”
The couple have settled in over the past few months, getting used to the new kitchen layout (“The kitchen outclasses the cook now,” jokes Lacy) and listening to the crickets and the neighbor’s cows at night. The property is a major wildlife corridor — deer and quail and wild turkeys, even foxes and coyotes, move easily across the landscape.
“A lot of people put fencing around the whole property, but I couldn’t see doing that here,” says Lacy. “There are deer trails here that go back and forth, and they definitely predate us, so that’s as it should be.”
The newly built home of Steve Lacy and Debbie Thomas in Alexander Valley. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
Summertime is outdoor time, watching the fingers of morning fog wander and burn off across the valley, and cooking lazy meals over the grill in the outdoor kitchen. “The fog is a whole thing here; it’s a character,” says Thomas.
The couple are planting a vegetable garden and looking ahead to hosting their younger daughter’s engagement party at the new house. But above all, they’re reveling in what has evolved over time.
“It’s isolated here, but it also feels very homey,” says Thomas.
Lacy agrees. “We knew we would like it, but now there’s the reality of it.”
There’s a reason writer Jack London planted roots in Glen Ellen — and this fall, staff and volunteers at his namesake park have come up with a fun way to remind us of the beauty of our Sonoma County backyard while getting our blood pumping.
The WILD Trail Challenge features five hikes spread across five consecutive Saturdays, beginning Sept. 7 and concluding Oct. 5. Tackle them all to be part of an admirable group that can say they’ve explored every trail in Jack London State Historic Park.
But that’s not the only brag-worthy benefit nature lovers can look forward to. Along with a history lesson and firsthand look at the sheer beauty of the park, which offers stunning views in the fall, hikers can expect a fun fitness challenge.
“The hiking routes were selected to provide participants with a gradual increase in hiking duration and difficulty level,” said Ciara Pegg, tour coordinator and visitor services associate at Jack London State Historic Park. “Each hike focuses on a different region within the park, offering unique historical and natural highlights along the way.”
Outdoor enthusiasts who sign up for the fifth and final hike of the WILD Trail Challenge at Jack London State Historic Park can look forward to a visit to the park summit. (Courtesy of Jack London State Historic Park)
The idea for the WILD Trail Challenge was proposed by Malcolm Walter, board president of Jack London Park Partners, the nonprofit organization that operates and funds the park. When he and his wife moved to Glen Ellen, they purchased the home where Jack and Charmian London lived for five years while readying Beauty Ranch, now Jack London State Historic Park, to become their permanent home.
“The Park has been our go-to place for hiking, however, we were guilty of doing the same two or three trails over and over,” Walter said. “Upon assuming the role of president, I picked up a trail map and decided I needed to hike every trail in the park.”
After considerable research, Walter mapped and trekked a handful of varying-length hikes that cover all of the park’s trails. One day, the park’s executive director, Matt Leffert, joined him on one of the trails and the idea to offer the challenge to the public took hold.
Walter will lead the first three hikes (Sept. 7, Sept. 14, Sept. 21) and park staff and volunteers will guide the others. Hiking shoes and plenty of water are a must to participate.
For anyone on the fence about being physically able to take part, Pegg says the first two hikes will provide good insight into the planned hiking pace. Several park volunteers will be on every hike. If a participant wants to turn around or shorten the jaunt, volunteers will guide them back to the parking lot.
Redwoods along a trail at Jack London State Historic Park in Glen Ellen. (Courtesy of Jack London State Historic Park)
Outdoor enthusiasts can sign up for any number of the hikes individually or do them all. The cost for each hike is $15, or commit to all five hikes before Sept. 7 for $60. The hiking series cost does not include the park’s day use fee of $10 per vehicle.
All hikes except the third in the series (the Historic Orchard trek on Sept. 21) begin in the Ranch parking lot of Jack London State Historic Park (turn right after the entrance kiosk). The Historic Orchard hike starts at the Sonoma Developmental Center, at the main campus parking loop at Arnold Drive and Harney Street.
The 2024 WILD Trail Challenge
Hike 1: Historic Trails
Sept. 7, 9 a.m. – Noon
This hike explores the park’s trails and historic sites, including Beauty Ranch, London Lake and the Wolf House ruins. Listed as an easy to moderate hike (approximately 3.5 miles roundtrip).
Hike 2: Ancient Redwood Sept. 14, 9 a.m. – Noon
Meander through the redwoods and sunny oak woodlands of the park’s three Bridge Trails (Upper, Lower and Fallen). The hike travels to the park’s ancient redwood, also known as the Grandmother Tree. Listed as a moderate hike (approximately 5.7 miles roundtrip).
Hike 3: Historic Orchard Sept. 21, 9 a.m. – 12:30 p.m.
Stroll along the blue shores of Fern Lake before reaching the park’s historic orchard. Learn the story behind the 110 acres of apple, pear, apricot, peach, cherry and plum trees planted primarily in the early 1900s. Listed as a moderate to difficult hike (approximately 5.5 miles roundtrip). Note: The hike begins at the Sonoma Developmental Center, 15000 Arnold Drive, in the main campus parking loop at Arnold Drive and Harney Street.
Hike 4: The Ridge Sept. 28, 9 a.m. – 3 p.m.
On this hike, gain elevation and an appreciation for the diverse habitats found within the park and explore part of the ever-growing Bay Area Ridge Trail. Listed as a moderate to difficult hike (approximately 8.5 miles roundtrip).
Hike 5: The Summit Oct. 5, 9 a.m. – 2 p.m.
Complete the hiking series with a trek to the park summit. Listed as a difficult hike (approximately 8 miles roundtrip).
Cloverdale chef and landscape designer Josh Chandler prepares food in his outdoor kitchen. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
Josh Chandler looks down at his fingers as he playfully ticks off the various professional titles he’s held over the course of his career — house designer, builder, contractor, landscape designer, interior designer, illustrator, grapegrower, winemaker, gourmet chef, event planner, livestock rancher, beekeeper.
He looks up and grins. “I know I’m forgetting a few things.”
It might be tempting to wonder if the talented Chandler should pick a lane. Yet as he explains, “The disciplines are actually all very similar. They’re based on scale, texture and color. And if your ingredients are good and you don’t mess them up, you end up with fabulous stuff. Food, wine, arts, architecture — you can easily move from one to the other.”
Chef and landscape designer Josh Chandler prepares a summery olive chimichurri in his outdoor kitchen. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
Some people might think that’s unusual, but for Chandler, it’d be unusual not to think about experimenting with all kinds of artistic pursuits. Now in his late 50s, Chandler knew as early as high school that he wanted to explore as many creative opportunities as he could.
Raised in Napa, Chandler was just 17 years old when his father, a landscape designer and sculptor, enlisted his help to dig gardens for the future Auberge du Soleil in Rutherford. He learned through a chance conversation with the resort chef that the restaurant was in need of staff.
“Ooh, I’d like to give that a whirl,” Chandler recalls thinking. In short time, he rocketed from dishwasher to chef de partie, a job he loved. “Except I realized that working noon to midnight, there’s not a whole lot of sunlight left. I liked the outdoors, so I decided I was going to continue cooking, but for myself.”
Within two years, Chandler had started a family. At age 21, he obtained a landscape architect license and began to buy houses to fix up and sell. He briefly attended two different colleges but decided not to pursue a degree, since he was already doing creative work he loved.
“In the old days, you could do it just by doing it,” he says. “You succeeded through years of practice under an expert’s tutelage.”
Josh Chandler’s wife, Mary Beth Chandler, pours wine at an outdoor table at their Cloverdale home. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
In 1998, he and his wife, Mary Beth Chandler, bought Mendocino’s iconic Lazy Creek Vineyards and started making wine from what was the second oldest vineyard in Anderson Valley. Their small-lot Pinot Noir wines were soon cult classics, touted in The New York Times.
But within a decade, the family was ready to be a bit closer to city conveniences. They sold the winery and bought the 40-acre Cloverdale farm they now call home.
All of Chandler’s passions — design, food, farming — come together on the bucolic property, where they spend most of summer cooking outdoors and eating from the garden. The space is anchored by a 1905 Italian-style farmhouse with stunning spindle-trimmed wraparound porches, overlooking several acres of vineyards, where Chandler and his wife still indulge their passion for winemaking.
The heart of the property, the courtyard, brims with stately trellised sycamore trees, brilliantly blooming rosebushes, manicured shrubs, citrus trees in pots and a swimming pool to stave off summer heat. There are nooks and pathways, secret mini-gardens and a sculpture created by his father.
Raised beds offer a bounty of produce, from herbs to artichokes to tomatoes. Chandler grows several varieties of table grapes and fruit in a small orchard. A wood-burning pizza oven beckons next to a hulking, brick and stone fireplace flanked by more climbing roses and pockets of dappled golden sun under olive trees.
Designer Josh Chandler laid out his Cloverdale property with a series of outdoor rooms, including a an efficient plein air kitchen with pizza oven and large open-fire hearth. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
To one side is Chandler’s office, inside a stone building that was once home to the Chianti Winery, bonded in 1909. Chandler continues to work on design projects, still drawing nearly all of his plans by hand, from wineries to private homes, with the goal of creating casual indoor-outdoor spaces for an ineffable California Wine Country feel. It’s like stepping back in time to see Chandler’s hand-tinted blueprints and landscape plans scattered about the office on large tables — barely a computer in sight.
Chandler cooks from scratch each day with a focus on fresh, home-grown ingredients, working out of the compact indoor kitchen or cooking outdoors over a live fire. It’s not surprising that the chef rarely limits himself to a single type of cuisine.
“For me, food is like music,” he says. “I can’t listen to an artist’s entire LP or whatever it’s called these days. Give me variety.”
Guests often gravitate to the kitchen as Chandler cooks. But the space is really built just for the chef himself in the way he prefers to prepare food.
Cloverdale chef and landscape designer Josh Chandler prepares food in his outdoor oven. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
“Real chefs won’t walk 10 feet to get to the fridge or stove,” he explains. “You just basically turn, and whatever you need is right there. You chop your stuff, turn and cook it, turn and wash the pots, then turn and plate the food.”
Those who would like to help might be directed to bring veggie trimmings out to the compost pile, to help feed the soil that makes the gardens thrive.
Depending on whim, Chandler might craft Italian, Vietnamese or French coq au vin, often paired with his own plush Sangiovese, grown and vinified just steps away. In summer, he loves to prepare chicken under a brick, with roasted vegetables from the garden and olive oil cake made with his own olive oil (see recipes below). He also butchers his own beef and pork and cures his own salumi.
“I’ve raised pigs, I’ve done it all, from the bottom up,” he says. “But I’m not plucking any more chickens.”
Chicken Under a Brick with Olive Sorrel Chimichurri
Designer and chef Josh Chandler turns to his garden for an extra spark in this impressive summertime main course, which highlights home-grown chiles, fresh herbs, olives, garlic — even olive oil made from his own fruit.
While Chandler cooks his chicken over a wood fire, the recipe is equally adaptable to a charcoal or gas grill. The key is to have the cast-iron pan and bricks plenty hot, and to use a generous amount of olive oil so the meat doesn’t stick. You’ll want to start brining the chicken the day before.
Cloverdale chef and landscape designer Josh Chandler prepares food in his outdoor oven. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
As Chandler tells it, chicken under a brick goes back to the days of Roman soldiers in the field, who discovered if they roasted their meats under a portable clay dome, they retained their juiciness and developed extra crispy skin. Later, Italian chefs discovered using weights or bricks to expose more of the meat to the heat for even more crispness.
Chandler recommends serving the chicken alongside grilled broccolini with fresh lemon.
Serves 4
3 pounds boneless chicken thighs
½ cup olive oil
For the brine:
½ cup salt
2⁄3cup sugar
1 1⁄4 cup mixed fresh herbs (parsley, thyme, rosemary)
6 cloves fresh garlic, minced
1 tsp. chile pepper flakes
4 bay leaves
For the chimichurri:
1⁄8 tsp. Serrano chile, minced
1 tsp. red onion, minced
½ tsp. parsley, minced
1 tsp. cilantro, minced
1 tsp. fresh sorrel, minced
¾ cup mixed olives, minced
1 tsp. olive juice from the jar
1 tsp. fresh garlic, minced
1 tsp. carrot, finely grated
2 tsp. yellow tomatoes, minced
1⁄8 tsp. chile oil
¼ cup sherry vinegar
½ cup olive oil
In a large bowl or plastic container, combine salt, sugar, herbs, garlic, pepper flakes, and bay leaves with 1 gallon water. Add the chicken thighs. Cover and refrigerate the chicken in the brine for 24-48 hours.
Prepare your grill or fire and allow to heat to a high temperature (approximately 500 degrees with a point-and-shoot thermometer). Place a shallow, seasoned cast-iron pan on the grill or fire to heat. Generously brush 2-3 clean bricks with olive oil and allow the bricks to heat along with the pan. It’s time to cook when the fire or charcoal has turned from flames to glowing coals. If you’re using a gas grill instead, dial to the highest temperature and heat the bricks and pan for 5-10 minutes before cooking.
While the fire or grill comes to temperature, prepare the chimichurri. Add all of the ingredients to a bowl and stir well to combine. Set aside.
Remove the chicken from the brine, pat dry with paper towels, then generously slather with olive oil. Place the chicken in the hot cast-iron pan; put the hot, oiled bricks on top; and cook until well crispy and brown on the outside and cooked through completely, about 6-7 minutes (cut into one thigh at the thickest part to test doneness). You may need to prepare the chicken in batches so there’s enough separation in the pan for each piece to get crispy.
Allow to rest for 5 minutes. Spoon the chimichurri on top of the chicken just before serving.
A nectarine tree from chef and landscape designer Josh Chandler’s garden. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
Olive Oil Cake with Nectarines
This elegant summer dessert was inspired by a recipe Josh Chandler found on Epicurious. He uses his own olive oil and nectarines from his trees (the recipe adapts beautifully to other types of stone fruit as well).
The lovely fan of nectarine slices on top is created by laying down slices of fruit at the bottom of the cake pan, then pouring the cake batter over top. The sugar caramelizes around the fruit as the cake cooks, and the slices come out on top when you turn the cake out of the pan.
2 large eggs
1 cup cake flour
¼ cup almond flour
½ cup brown sugar, plus additional to coat the cake pan
1 tsp. baking powder
¼ tsp. baking soda
¼ tsp. fine-grain salt
2⁄3 cup olive oil, plus additional to oil the cake pan
3 tbsp. Amaretto
2 tbsp. fresh lemon zest
1 tbsp. lemon juice
2 tsp. vanilla extract
1 cup prepared lemon curd (such as Bonne Maman) freshly whipped cream, for serving
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.
Chef and landscape designer Josh Chandler cuts a slice of his nectarine-topped olive oil cake. (Eileen Roche/Sonoma Magazine)
Using an 8-inch round cake pan, trace an outline on a piece of parchment paper, cut out and place in the bottom of the cake pan. Oil the pan generously with olive oil, then sprinkle with a heavy layer of brown sugar. Arrange the nectarine slices in a fan at the bottom of the pan, on top of the sugar.
Combine cake flour, almond flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a bowl and set aside. In a separate small bowl, stir together the amaretto, lemon juice, and vanilla extract and set aside.
In a stand mixer, beat the eggs, brown sugar and lemon zest on high until stiff peaks form. Once the eggs are stiff, slowly drizzle in the olive oil in a steady stream until fully combined. With the mixer on low speed, add half of the dry ingredient mixture to the batter, then half of the lemon juice mixture. While continuing to mix at low speed, add the remainder of the dry and wet ingredients until just incorporated.
Gently pour the batter into the prepared cake pan with the fruit slices arranged on the bottom. Bake the cake in a 425 degree oven for 5 minutes, then lower the temperature to 350 degrees and cook approximately 40 additional minutes, until just cooked through. Remove from the oven, and while still hot, slather the exposed surface with a 1/4-inch layer of lemon curd, which will soak in as the cake cools.
Cool the cake in the pan for 10 minutes, then use a butter knife or spatula to loosen the cake and turn it out upside down onto a serving platter (so the fruit is on top). Serve with freshly whipped cream.
Clockwise from center, The Boho Bowl, gluten-free summer squash tartlets, Mochi donuts, Earl Grey polenta olive oil cakes, at The Altamont General Store in Occidental. (Beth Schlanker/Sonoma Magazine)
Whether you’re a first-time visitor or longtime Sonoma County resident, consider this your local foodie adventure guide, curated by someone who eats (and writes about) food for a living.
I’ve sorted through some of my absolute favorites for a list of tried-and-true bakeries, cafes, restaurants and dining experiences to give you the best Wine Country recommendations. (Napa has nothing on these Sonoma County spots, best bets and insider hot spots.)
Sebastopol
A&M BBQ: Real. Barbecue. Long-smoked, dry-rubbed, killer sides. Sonoma County-meets-Deep South meat and three. Expect a long line and a no-frills “when we’re out, we’re out” vibe. Brisket is a specialty. 495 S. Main St., Sebastopol, Instagram.com/ambbqllc
The Handline “Inglewood” burger features pastured beef, St. Jorge fonduta, iceberg lettuce, spicy pickle relish and thousand island on a toasted bun. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Handline: The tortillas are handmade, the oysters super fresh, the burgers are great, but I go for the veggies. Esquites (grilled corn with lime) are a summer staple. Broccolini with mushroom aioli and pickled mustard seeds is another favorite. The Roots & Shoots salad is an ever-changing lineup of seasonal veggies with sprouted lentils, arugula, basil pesto and sesame hummus. 935 Gravenstein Ave. South, Sebastopol, handline.com
Healdsburg and points north
PizzaLeah: Leah Scurto is an award-winning pizzaiolo who puts every bit of her soul into making the best pies in Sonoma County. We’re obsessed with the Old Grey Beard with mozzarella, fontina, sausage and hot honey. 9240 Old Redwood Highway, Suite 116, Windsor, pizzaleah.com
Journeyman Meat: This tiny salumeria, tasting bar and butcher shop also makes great wood-fired pizzas, burgers and, of course, charcuterie boards. It’s a dream project for Pete Seghesio, whose family is best known for their hearty red wines (also available). Hidden away off the Healdsburg square, sidling up to the tasting bar feels like a discovery. 404 Center St., Healdsburg, journeymanmeat.com
Sandwich from Troubadour in Healdsburg. (Emma K Creative)
Troubadour: When you own a bakery, why not offer great sandwiches, too? Husband-and-wife culinary phenoms Sean McGaughey and Melissa Yanc have a sandwich outpost that transforms into a top-notch French bistro called Le Diner at night. The world’s best egg salad on challah for lunch, vichyssoise with caviar for dinner. Dinner reservations required. 381 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, troubadourhbg.com
Geyserville Gun Club: This Fellini-esque watering hole is almost too absurdly wonderful to be true. Brought to life by chef Dino Bugica, it’s the flip side of his more tourist-friendly Diavola Pizzeria and Salumeria. 21025 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, geyservillegunclub.com
Santa Rosa
Mitote: Immersive eating and drinking in Sonoma County’s epicenter of Mexican culture. Food trucks circle a permanent outdoor patio (tented and enclosed) with home-style tacos, tlayuda, birria and tortas. A full bar with a focus on mezcal keeps the party going. 665 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa, mitotefoodpark.com
A variety of Mexican dishes served at the Mitote Food Park in Santa Rosa. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)Kapu Bar, tiki bar and restaurant in the heart of downtown Petaluma on Keller Street. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Petaluma
Kapu: This tiki-tastic adult playground isn’t just fun; it’s an island adventure complete with bamboo huts, pirate booty and terrific Mai Tais. The menu focuses on Hawaiian fare, including plate lunch faves like Spam musubi, sticky garlic chicken and mac salad. Fried noodles are perfect for soaking up deceptively delicious tropical cocktails that — if you’re not careful — will take you down like a vengeful god. 132 Keller St., Petaluma, kapubar.com
Stellina Pronto: There’s (almost) always a line at this Italian bakery and pizzeria, which is saying something in sleepy Sonoma County. Michelin-quality pastries filled with hazelnuts, cream and plenty of panache are the opener for Neapolitan-meets-New York wood-fired gourmet pizzas. Limited seating. 23 Kentucky St., Petaluma, stellinapronto.com
Street Social: With just six tables and 300 feet of dining space, Street Social is unavoidably intimate, even at its busiest. Chef Jevon Martin is a chef’s chef, and you’ll likely find other culinary giants nibbling away on dishes like Kurobuta pork riblets and chicharrones, or Meyer lemon curd with brown butter crumble. Reservations required. 29F Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, streetsocial.social
Vegan “Al Pastor” Tacos with celery root, pineapple, achiote, cilantro, onions on blue corn tortillas from Bloom Carneros in Sonoma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Sonoma Valley
Bloom Carneros: There’s so much to love about this Sonoma hideaway, from its welcoming dog- and kid-friendly patio to the audacious (but delicious) wines from Kivelstadt Cellars. An elevated menu with outstanding farm-to-table dishes reflect both the season and sense of place. It’s an unpretentious way to really dive into the best of what Sonoma County has to offer, all in one spot. 22900 Broadway, Sonoma, bloomcarneros.com
Valley Swim Club: The only diving at this popular roadhouse is straight into a bowl of clams in buttery garlic noodles. This is a casual, walk-in-only sibling to Valley Bar + Bottle, with a focus on coastal seafood, plus salads, milkshakes, smash burgers and plant-based options. On the drink menu, tasty porch pounders and standout natural wines are de rigueur, including the Valley team’s own Le Lube. 18709 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, valleyswim.club
West County
Altamont General Store: Funky grab-and-go bowls or serious breakfast, lunch and dinner eats in this quiet West County hamlet are perfect for families and visitors. An outdoor patio has plenty of grass for cart wheels. An excellent selection of curated wines and artisan gifts is an added bonus. 3703 Main St., Occidental, altamontgeneralstore.com
Shakshuka — a Middle Eastern dish of poached egg, zesty tomato sauce, onions and a side of hummus and puffy pita bread — at Lightwave Coffee and Kitchen in Monte Rio. (Daniel Beck/Sonoma County Tourism)
Lightwave Coffee and Kitchen: Located by the Creekside Skatepark, this curious little cafe is a mix of smoothies, bagels, pies and Middle Eastern cuisine. Desserts are impressive. 9725 Main St., Monte Rio, lightwavecafe.square.site
Willow Wood: Though this breakfast and brunch spot has been around since 1995, it’s often overlooked in the one-stop-sign town of Graton. Try their homey-yet-impressive menus. 9020 Graton Road, Graton, willowwoodgraton.com
Coast, Highway 1
Fisherman’s Cove: There are plenty of spots to grab barbecued oysters on the coast, but this combination of tackle shop/convenience store/cafe is so Sonoma County. 1850 Bay Flat Road, Bodega Bay, fishermanscovebodegabay.com
Estero Cafe: Working directly with local farmers — often just miles away — owners Samantha and Ryan Ramey bring the best of Sonoma’s bounty to the table. Go for breakfast or brunch and try the chicken fried chicken or biscuits with country gravy and you’ll be ready for a day of wine tasting and sightseeing. 14450 Hwy. 1, Valley Ford, esterocafe.com