Fire up the oompah bands and gather ‘round for schnitzel sandwiches, ice-cold Pilseners and wurst, because the Beer Garden at Tisza Bistro in Healdsburg is open.
Though it’s just a handful of stout wooden tables, bistro seats under twinkle lights and Weihenstephan pennants (Germany’s oldest brewery), Munich is in the air at chef Krisztian Karkus’ Hungarian/German eatery.
“We’re moving a little more toward German food. People really recognize it,” said Karkus of the newly launched beer garden menu.
The al fresco space is open from noon to 5 p.m. Thursday, Friday, Sunday and Monday. Karkus and his wife/co-owner Alena Rebick also have a stand at the Healdsburg Farmers’ Market on Saturdays.
The small garden is bustling with diners even on a quiet Monday afternoon. Here, Karkus’ much-loved pork schnitzel comes in sandwich form between a split pretzel bun stuffed with creamy cucumber and a heavy dousing of tart lingonberry jam ($18). It’s messy through and through, which Karkus says is precisely the point: “I didn’t want it to look too perfect.” Served with a light summer salad and an easygoing Spaten Lager ($9), you’ll be fueled up for a marathon-length “Verdauungsspaziergang” (or digestion walk) around the Dry Creek Valley. Or at least to downtown Healdsburg’s Noble Folk for some ice cream.
The housemade bratwurst ($18) is a must-try, even if you’re not a huge sausage fan. Karkus’ pan-fried pork wurst puts the stuff at backyard barbecues to shame. In fact, I’ve never had a softer, more mellow brat that works perfectly with housemade sauerkraut and pillowy potato dumplings. It is served with a side of sourdough-fermented “sun pickles,” an Eastern European pickling method that uses the sun, salt, water and a slice of bread (and no vinegar) to create a tart but nonaggressive condiment.
Like a good lager or Kölsch, nothing on Karkus’ menu has to punch you in the taste buds to make an impression. However, watch out for the mustard served with the brats. It will flash flood your sinuses quicker than a desert rainstorm.
I’m also a fan of the currywurst ($18), made with the same bratwurst, sliced into pieces and laid over beer-battered fries and caramelized onions with a curry-spiked ketchup. This classic German street food can easily stand up to darker beers or even an IPA. Living up to its name, the beer garden has five German beers on tap, plus cans of Stiegl Radler (grapefruit juice and lager) and malty Korbinian.
You will, of course, need to order the fresh pretzels ($6), soft and chewy twists of dough with fat seeds of coarse salt. Karkus whispers an aside, “You don’t ever put mustard on pretzels.” He almost seems offended that anyone would suggest such a thing. Though, he points out they’re served in the beer garden with whole grain mustard and a ramekin of soft butter — the preferred condiment.
The menu also includes a cheeseburger ($20), grilled ham and cheese on sourdough ($17) or a simple chicken club ($19). There’s also an iceberg wedge salad ($16), fries doused in porcini mushroom sauce ($9) and German-style cheesecake with a pretzel graham crust ($10). Smoked salmon latkes ($17) from the dinner menu are also a winner.
The new beer garden is a quiet respite and a friendly spot where you’ll likely overhear local gossip (I hear a Healdsburg bakery is expanding just nearby). Or have a solitary moment with your thoughts and a cold beer. Either way, “Prost!” to Tisza Bistro’s tasty new outdoor offerings. Stay tuned for details on Tisza’s official Oktoberfest plans this fall.
165 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-291-5193, tiszabistro.com