Milk punch at County Bench in Santa Rosa on 6/6/16. Heather irwin/PD
CLOSED
Just a quick hit on this brand new downtown Santa Rosa restaurant before I do a deeper dive in the coming weeks, butThe County Bench seems to be an out-of-the-gate hit. Michelin-starred chef Bruce Frieseke (Applewood, Bella Vineyards) and Ben Davies (Petite Syrah, Spoonbar, Mirepoix) are flexing their culinary muscles with seemingly simple dishes that are anything but.
Popcorn + corn at County Bench in Santa Rosa, Ca on 6/1/16. Heather Irwin/PD
Popcorn+corn ($4) is popcorn with freeze dried powdered corn and chili sprinkled on top that’s so addictive you’ll want one to take home. Deviled eggs get upstaged by Deviled Brussels sprouts ($4), and sizzling side dish of cauliflower, brown butter and oxtail ($8) stole the show. Desserts are stunners, and the wine list is an ambitious 10-plus pages.
Deviled brussels sprouts at The County Bench in Santa Rosa, CA. Heather Irwin/PD
Craft cocktails are having a spring resurgence, and their NYC cocktail wrangler knows his way around the bar with insanely complicated sippers like a clarified Milk Punch ($13) with jasmine tea, arrack (a rare spirit from Southeast Asia) and gin along with simpler classic cocktails. We’re stoked to see a restaurant this cosmopolitan on Fourth St. , and hope its a sign of more great things to come.
Chili chicken drumsticks at County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
Keep in mind, this isn’t a stuffed shirt spot (though its pretty swank for dinner), and is serving both lunch and brunch on the weekend.
Milk punch at County Bench in Santa Rosa on 6/6/16. Heather irwin/PD
The County Bench: Lunch Monday through Friday from 11:30a.m. to 2p.m., dinner from 5p.m. daily, Brunch 10a.m. to 2p.m. Saturday and Sunday and happy hour Monday through Friday from 4-6p.m. 535 Fourth St., Santa Rosa.
Dessert of Sour creme mousse, chocolate crispies, ganache at The County Bench in Santa Rosa, 6/1/16. Heather Irwin, PD
Although vaguely familiar with the Vietnamese staples of Pho and the Bahn Mi sandwich, prior to visiting Petaluma’s Simmer Vietnamese Kitchen, I had little other experience with Vietnamese cuisine. At first glance, it appears similar to Chinese food, but take one bite and it becomes evident that although influenced by neighboring countries, Vietnamese food is unique in its own right.
Brothers Nhat and Sonny Le opened Simmer in 2013 and have been receiving rave reviews ever since. But having been unimpressed with past Vietnamese restaurant experiences in Sonoma County, visiting yet another strip mall restaurant was not high on my list.
That all changed after speaking with Amber Driscoll, co-owner of Petaluma’s Speakeasy, The Big Easy and the Opera House Gallery. Although a vegetarian herself, Driscoll’s own menu is balanced with both delicious meat and vegetarian dishes, all of which I enjoy on a regular basis. When Driscoll told me that even I, a through-and-through carnivore, would like Simmer’s vegetarian selections, I knew it was time to give them a try.
I arrived on a Saturday afternoon for an early dinner, food crew in tow, including our resident vegetarian. We immediately noticed that Nhat and Sonny had transformed what used to be a dark dining space at 299 North McDowell Blvd., into something open and airy.
“The first thing we did was remove all the window coverings in order to let the light in,” said Nhat Le. Exposing patrons to a view of a strip mall parking lot might seem counterintuitive, but having dined in this location before, I can attest that the difference is like night and day, literally.
Simmer’s small plates menu includes sweet and sour crispy chicken, left, and spring rolls with peanut dipping sauce. (Houston Porter / The Argus – Courier)
We started our order with one of everything on the “small plates” menu because these items appeared to represent a great cross-section of flavors and textures. These included Simmer spring rolls ($6), egg rolls ($7), sweet and sour crispy chicken ($8), salt and pepper prawns ($11), crispy fried tofu ($6), pot stickers ($6) and beef onion wraps ($8).
At first glance, this looks like an order at a Chinese restaurant, but one bite of each and we knew something was quite different.
All were delicious, but the pot stickers were the perfect example of how Vietnamese dishes are more delicately created than their “heavier” Chinese counterparts. These were light and free of grease, while still delivering the memorably bold flavors we expect from a pot sticker.
The beef onion wraps were a huge surprise as I usually dislike all but macerate, caramelized or pickled onions. These wraps look simple enough, but the flavor and texture combo were close to perfection. We loved all the dishes we tried, but these alone are enough to get us to revisit Simmer again and again.
The pho, a Vietnamese staple, and shaking beef rice plate are both excellent. (Houston Porter / The Argus – Courier)
For our main dishes, we ordered pho ($10-$11.50), shaking beef rice plate ($18) and the incredibly popular lemongrass crispy tofu with vermicelli ($10).
Pho (pronounced “fuh”) is a noodle soup consisting of broth, thin vermicelli rice noodles, herbs and veggies, and usually some sort of protein, like chicken or steak. Simmer’s pho comes with a side of onions, scallions, cilantro, bean sprouts, basil, jalapenos and lime, so diners can complement the already flavorful broth as they wish. Simmer’s large pho can easily be shared by two people.
The shaking beef is one of the more expensive dishes on the menu, but is worth every penny. Made with cubed filet mignon, it is as tender and flavorful as any filet I have had in a long time.
The crispy fried tofu at Simmer is served with a sweet and spicy chili sauce. (Houston Porter / The Argus – Courier)
But just as Driscoll had warned me, the pièce de résistance really is Simmer’s lemongrass crispy tofu with vermicelli. I cannot say I would pass up the beef onion wraps or shaking beef if dining at Simmer alone, but the lemongrass crispy tofu will likely guarantee I will always bring at least one friend with me whenever visiting Simmer in the future.
A huge portion of Simmer’s menu is not only gluten free, but is available in a vegetarian option.
“We listen to our guests and try to accommodate different dietary restrictions whenever we can,” said Sonny Le. “We get a lot of compliments on our veggie broth, which we created and perfected in-house.”
Many fall prey to the fallacy that all Asian food is simply a variation on Chinese recipes. However, there are significant differences, especially when it comes to Vietnamese cuisine.
Traditional Vietnamese food is well-respected for its fresh ingredients, avoidance of heavy oils, use of herbs and vegetables for flavoring, and its complementary textures. It is no wonder that Vietnamese cuisine is some of the healthiest food on the planet, and certainly some of the most delicious.
One bite of Simmer’s food and it is clear the Le brothers are focused on offering affordable dining options chalked full of high quality ingredients and diverse flavor combinations.
An update on the whirlwind of Santa Rosa restaurant openings and closings in the Brickyard block.
Brasa, the Brasilian churrascaria on the corner of Mendocino and Seventh Street in Santa Rosa, abruptly closed a couple weeks ago, leaving folks curious about the yet-again-empty 505 building.
There has been no response from the owners, aside from an email sent to people trying to make a reservation saying, “Sorry to inform you, but Brasa has closed and is currently looking for new location. Our sincere apologies.”
Shuffles Magical Ice Cream has moved from its cavernous Seventh Street location to Railroad Square, at 123 Fourth St. We’ve heard from a friend with a youngster that the kids’ parties and magic shows are all the rage with the toddler set, and the ice cream continues to be solid at the new location.
Moving into the Shuffles location is Best of Burma, a Burmese restaurant that’s well under construction already. The restaurant has another location in San Mateo. (OMG are we really getting Burmese? Agggghhhrrrrrrr, excited!) If you’re not familiar with Burmese food (Burma is actually known as Myanmar), it incorporates the flavors and traditions of many cultures and regions ranging from China and Thailand to India and Pacific Islands. With lots of fresh ingredients, salads and seafood, it’s a welcome addition to our lineup of ethnic cuisines in the North Bay.
La Perla Peruvian restaurant has changed its named to Panka Peru Cocina Peruana, with a simplified menu that’s more in line with weekday lunchers in both price and offerings, keeping their amazing ceviche and lomo saltado and losing some of the more expensive and complex dishes.
Finally, a Mexican restaurant is under construction at the former BBQ Spot. We saw a gentleman with a Mi Burrito shirt heading inside, but so far no exact word on the owners (and no ABC license yet).
We’d be remiss not to mention the other remaining restaurants, Haku Sushi (which seems to be gaining some steam) and the newly reopened Kafal (formerly Ganesh), which has been serving some solid and affordable $8.99 lunch specials. Sprenger’s Tap Room continues to bring massive crowds to the long-suffering block between Mendocino and B streets.
When you arrive at Kenwood Inn and Spa you feel the blissful freedom of having just checked your baggage at the airport. But this time it’s your mental baggage you are free of — and with no extra weight charge.
Situated just off the main vein of Sonoma Valley’s Hwy 12, the quaint Italianate Kenwood Inn & Spa [KIS] blends into the countryside corridor seamlessly as if it’s been there for centuries. Upon entering the inn, you do immediately feel as though you’ve stepped back in time to a place of enchantment steeped in tranquility, serenity and solace.
The alcove exudes charm and eloquence from the moment the concierge offers a complimentary glass of Prosecco. A slow blink, a long exhale, a big swish of bubbly and you say to yourself, “ah, I’m home.”
You then discover the fruit tree-flanked center courtyard planted with avocado, fig, pomegranate and lemon, along with grapevine varietals such as cabernet, chardonnay, zinfandel and merlot.
At KIS you experience luxury at its finest without the Napa Valley pretense. Although it is not formally a bed and breakfast, by first day’s end, you’ll be on a first name basis with all the guests and the staff at the 29 room, 2 acre property.
No request is considered unreasonable here. “Once I was working the night shift and a guest wanted hot lemon water in the middle of the night,” room manager Don Hamilton said. “Because the kitchen is closed at 2:30 a.m., I picked a lemon from a nearby tree for her room service order. She was delighted.”
At this Sonoma Valley inn, each day begins with a complimentary full breakfast by the central fountain, flanked with wild flowers and pops of red. Guests can enjoy daily specials like Kenwood Inn Signature Eggs Benedict; a poached egg, grilled portobello mushroom, spinach with hint of tomato infused hollandaise sauce or an Italian Frittata filled with asparagus, red pepper and parmesan cheese.
Dinner is served nightly from the resort’s private restaurant for an added fee. The resort’s coveted cuisine features local wine country ingredients. The menu can be found online at www.kenwoodinn.com.
KIS boasts a well-rounded array of wines from around the world and highlights about a dozen local wines like Papapietro Perry Pinot and Turley Zinfandel. Nearby wineries include, St. Francis, Chateau St. Jean, Landmark, and VJB Winery.
For artisan beer lovers, the inn showcases local craft beers such as Lagunitas Brewery and Anderson Valley Brewing Company. Daily wine & beer service begins at 2 p.m. and ends at midnight.
Kenwood Inn and Spa
10400 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, CA 95452
Reservations: 800.353.6966
Looking for something fun to do this weekend? We have a few ideas. This Friday starts the 3-day Country Summer music festival at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. Friday is also the start of the Healdsburg Jazz Festival. Saturday, watch or partake in the action at the Great Russian River Race in Guerneville. And on Sunday is the Railroad Square Music Festival. All this and more is in our life of things to do.
FRIDAY, June 3
Country Summer: Join country fans from all over for this year’s Country Summer music festival at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds in Santa Rosa. Headlining the festival is Lady Antebellum on Friday, The Band Perry on Saturday and Billy Currington on Sunday. Gates open each day at noon, with music starting at 1:30 p.m. Tickets are $79 per day, or $209 for all three days. Reserved seating prices are also available. Find out more at countrysummer.com. (June 3 -5)
Healdsburg Jazz Festival: The ten-day festival opens with Julian Lage Trio, 7 and 9 p.m. this Friday at Healdsburg SHED. This show is sold out, but there are still a few tickets left for a few of the other shows through June 12. 433-4633, healdsburgjazzfestival.org.
The Bohemian Highway: Americana and pop songs at inaugural ‘Local Talent Friday,’ 7-9 tonight, Occidental Center for the Arts. $10. 874-9392, occidentalcenterforthearts.org.
Tony Redhouse: Native American multimedia concert with music, drumming and dance in full regalia, 7:30 tonight, Petaluma Museum. $10. 778-4398, petalumamuseum.com.
Yarn: Original Americana music, ‘Friday Night Live’ summer concert series opener, 7 tonight, Cloverdale Plaza. Free. 894-4410, cloverdaleartsalliance.org.
Pulsators: Rhythm and blues, rock ’n’ roll and reggae at ‘Funky Fridays,’ 7 tonight, Hood Mansion, Santa Rosa. $10, $10 parking. 833-6288, funkyfridays.info.
Families race to their kayaks for the start of the double kayak division of The Great Russian River Race at Rio Lindo Beach. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
SATURDAY, June 4
Great Russian River Race: The postponed race is back on this Saturday from noon to 4 p.m. at Johnson’s Beach in Guerneville. Along with the races, there will be live music and food trucks, and plenty of opportunity for fun in the sun. Find out all the details at greatrussianriverrace.com.
Star Party: Head over to the Robert Ferguson Observatory in Sugarloaf this Saturday to get an up close view of the stars. Starting at 8 pm., all three of the observatory’s main telescopes will be open for viewing, along with additional other telescopes. Admission is $3 for 18-plus, free for kids. Parking is $8. Find out all the details at rfo.org.
‘Sculpture Trail’: Artists’ reception with music and videos of sculptors at work, 5-7 p.m. Saturday, Cloverdale Performing Arts Center. Free. 894-4410, cloverdaleartsalliance.org.
Lily Tomlin: An evening with the comedienne’s timeless characters, 8 p.m. Saturday, Luther Burbank Center, Santa Rosa. Sold out. 546-3600, lutherburbankcenter.org.
Caravanserai: Santana tribute band featuring Tony Lindsay, ‘Rockin’ Concerts’ series, noon-3 p.m. Saturday, Village Court, Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa. Free. 545-3844, mvshops.com.
Arann Harris: Americana and soul, plus openers Hillstomp and Sean Hayes, 8 p.m. Saturday, Mystic Theatre, Petaluma. $14-$16. 765-2121, mystictheatre.com.
Petaluma hosts Day on the River on Sunday.
SUNDAY, June 5
Railroad Square Music Festival: This Sunday, Railroad Square presents a free day of music, from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. The event will shine a spotlight on the local music scene, with performances by favorite North Bay bands including John Courage, Dixie Giants, The Bootleg Honeys and more. While there, enjoy the bounty of the West End Farmers Market, Santa Rosa’s Shop Party and a pop-up art gallery by Free Art Friday SR artists. Circus Maximus will also bring lots of family fun. Find out all the details at railroadsquaremusicfestival.com.
Day on the River: Round out your weekend on Sunday with a day on the Petaluma River. For $10, you can rent a number of small water crafts and peruse the town’s river. Always wanted to try a stand up paddle board? How about a pedal boat or a hydrobike? Sunday is your chance to try something new. Find out more at petalumasmallcraftcenter.org.
Bennett Valley Grange Picnic: In its 144th continuous year, the oldest active Grange in the United States invites you to take part in their annual picnic, noon to 4 p.m. this Sunday. This year’s traditional features include the Cherry Pit Spitting Contest, farm animals, a silent auction and more. Live music will be performed by the Jami Jamison Band. And the meal is BBQ chicken, homemade desserts, beer and wine for purchase and more. Meal tickets are $15 for adults and $10 for kids 11-16. Under 11 are free with paying adult. Find out all the details at bvgrange.org.
The Disorderly House Band: Americana/folk rock, ‘Music on the Lawn’ summer music series opener, 2:30-4:30 p.m. Sunday, St. Francis Winery, Santa Rosa. Free. 538-9463, stfranciswinery.com.
The Peelers: Cover band, music from the ’70s to today, summer music series opener, noon-3 p.m. Sunday, Chateau St. Jean Winery, Kenwood. $30-$40. 257-5784, chateaustjean.com.
Wine Country Quilt Show: Quilting exhibit with vendors and boutique, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Sunday, Santa Rosa Veterans Memorial Building. $10. mqsc.org.
Beatles Flashback: ‘Terrace Concert’ series, 1-4 p.m. Sunday, Village Terrace, Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa. Free. 545-3844, mvshops.com.
A Peek at Next Week…
All-American cars, live music, food and vendors at Peggy Sue’s Car Show on Saturday, June 11 in Santa Rosa.
MONDAY, June 6
Summer classes: Art, science and LEGO classes on Monday open summertime series offered through Aug. 12, Schulz Museum, Santa Rosa. Various times, fees. 284-1272, schulzmuseum.org.
TUESDAY, June 7
Grupo Falso Baiano: Brazilian, choro, jazz and samba, ‘Tuesdays in the Plaza,’ 6-8 p.m. Tuesday, Healdsburg Plaza. Free. 431-3301, ci.healdsburg.ca.us.
Guitar exhibit: ‘Medieval to Metal: The Art and Evolution of the Guitar,’ 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Tuesday, History Museum of Sonoma County, Santa Rosa. $7-$10. 579-1500, sonomacountymuseum.org.
WEDNESDAY, June 8
Afroman: Rap music with ‘Because I Got High’ Grammy nominee, 8 p.m. Wednesday, Phoenix Theater, Petaluma. $20. 762-3565, thephoenixtheater.com.
THURSDAY, June 9
SuperHuey: Huey Lewis and the News tribute band, ‘Summer Nights on the Green’ concert season opener, 6-8 p.m. Thursday, Windsor Town Green. Free. 838-1260, townofwindsor.com.
Soft White Sixties: Rock and pop, plus blues with Adia Victoria, ‘Krush Backyard Concert Series,’ 6 p.m. Thursday, KRSH radio, Santa Rosa. Free. krsh.com.
FRIDAY, June 10
Huichica Music Festival: Seven diverse bands, food and wine, 3-11 p.m. June 10, Old Redwood Barn, Gundlach Bundschu Winery, Sonoma. $40. huichica.com.
Emma Straub: ‘Modern Lovers’ author, 7 p.m. June 10, Copperfield’s Books, Petaluma. Free. 762-0563, copperfieldsbooks.com.
Zigaboo Modeliste: King of the funky drums and the New Aahkesstra, ‘Friday Night Live,’ 7 p.m. June 10, Cloverdale Plaza. 894-4410, cloverdaleartsalliance.org.
Hour of Tower: Tower of Power tribute band, 7 p.m. June 10, ‘Funky Fridays’ outdoor concert series, Hood Mansion, Santa Rosa. $10, $10 parking. 833-6288, funkyfridays.info.
Brian Culbertson’s Napa Valley Jazz Getaway: ‘Friday Night Funk Night,’ 7:30 p.m. June 10, Napa Valley Performing Arts Center, Yountville. $149. 944-9900, lincolntheater.com.
‘The Magic Flute’: Opening night of Mozart’s opera with laughter, romance and adventure, 8 p.m. June 10, Cinnabar Theater, Petaluma. $9-$40. 763-8920, cinnabartheater.org.
SATURDAY, June 11
Peggy Sue’s Car Show & Cruise: All-American cars, live music, food and vendors, 8 a.m.-4 p.m. June 11, Sonoma Mountain Village, Rohnert Park. $5. 703-9616, cruiseforpeggysue.com.
‘Beerfest – The Good One’: Face to Face benefit with 60-plus craft breweries, plus food, noon-5 p.m. June 11, Luther Burbank Center, Santa Rosa. $50. 544-1581, beerfestthegoodone.com.
Jackie Greene: Singer-songwriter plus Nicki Bluhm & The Gramblers, 8 p.m. June 11, Mystic Theatre, Petaluma. $50-$60. 765-2121, mystictheatre.com.
Stacy Jones: Blues musician with mild Americana and subtle country, 8:45 p.m. June 11, HopMonk Tavern, Sebastopol. $10. 829-7300, hopmonk-sebastopol.ticketfly.com.
SUNDAY, June 12
Rhythm Future Quartet: ‘Gypsy Jazz!,’ 5-7 p.m. June 12, Occidental Center for the Arts. $25. 874-9392, occidentalcenterforthearts.org.
Brenda Reed: Collaboration Jazz Band, ‘Sunday Terrace’ concert series, 1-4 p.m. June 12, Village Terrace, Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa. Free. 545-3844, mvshops.com.
Healdsburg Jazz Festival: ‘New Orleans Day on the Green,’ 5 p.m. June 12, Dry Creek Vineyard, Healdsburg. $45. (800) 838-3006, healdsburgjazzfestival.org.
‘Art at the Source’: Final day of self-guided tour of 87 open arts studios, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Sunday, June 12 (runs June 4-5 and 11-12), west Sonoma County. Free. 829-4797, artatthesource.org.
Sugarloaf Ridge State Park is located in the heart of the Mayacamas Mountains high above the town of Kenwood. Towering Bald Mountain, the park’s highest peak at 2,729 feet, straddles the county line between Sonoma and Napa Counties.
This strenuous hike forms a large loop from the lower sloping meadow to the Bald Mountain summit. At the summit are 360-degree vistas that span from the Sierra Nevada Range to the San Francisco skyline and the Golden Gate Bridge. The views extend down both Sonoma Valley and Napa Valley.
Two illustrated panels point out more than 30 of the surrounding peaks, towns and valleys. The Gray Pine Trail (the return route) follows the isolated Sugarloaf Ridge for over a mile along the county border, then descends along the headwaters of Sonoma Creek.
Santa Rosa
From Highway 101 and Highway 12 in Santa Rosa, drive 11.4 miles west and south on Highway 12 (Sonoma Highway) to Adobe Canyon Road on the left. Turn left and continue 3.5 miles up the winding mountain road to the large trailhead parking area on the left. It is located 0.1 mile past the park entrance station. A parking fee is required.
Kenwood
From the town of Kenwood, drive 0.9 miles north on Highway 12 (Sonoma Highway) to Adobe Canyon Road on the right. Turn right and continue 3.5 miles up the winding mountain road to the large trailhead parking area on the left. It is located 0.1 mile past the park entrance station. A parking fee is required.
The Hike
Walk past the trailhead map and head up the grassy slope. Weave through an oak grove to a meadow and a triangle junction. The right fork leads to the observatory on the Meadow Trail. Go to the left on the Lower Bald Mountain Trail, beginning the loop. Climb to the upper end of the meadow, and enter an oak grove with manzanita and madrone. At one mile the trail reaches the Bald Mountain Trail, a paved fire road.
Bear right and head up the narrow road to sweeping views of Sonoma Valley and the surrounding mountains. Pass the Vista Trail at 1.2 miles on a U-shaped bend. (For a shorter 4.5-mile loop, take the Vista Trail to the right.) Continue straight, weaving up the contours of the forested mountain. Pass a couple of stream-fed gullies and overlooks. At two miles, the Red Mountain Trail cut-across breaks off to the right.
For this hike, continue 0.4 miles to a road on the left that leads up to the top of Red Mountain. The short quarter-mile paved road leads up to the microwave tower at the 2,548-foot summit of Red Mountain. The road ends at a gate before reaching the tower.
Back on the main trail, weave up the dirt road on the upper mountain slope to amazing vistas. The final ascent curves clockwise to a junction with the High Ridge Trail. Bear right and walk 80 yards to the Gray Pine Trail on the left, just short of the summit. Detour right to the 2,729-foot bald summit with a bench, 360-degree vistas, and two interpretive maps.
After resting and savoring the views, return 20 yards to the Gray Pine Trail. Descend along the rolling grassy ridge, which follows the Napa-Sonoma county line. The views extend down both valleys from the ridge. Enter a mixed forest and continue east, staying on the ridge to the junction with the east end of Red Mountain Trail and a picnic bench at 3.6 miles. At just under four miles, curve right, leaving the ridge, and head south to a signed junction with the Brushy Peaks Trail.
Bend right, staying on the Gray Pine Trail, and steadily descend on the wide dirt trail. At 4.8 miles, curve left and follow a branch of Sonoma Creek in an oak grove. Make an S-bend and cross another feeder creek. Parallel and hop over Sonoma Creek to a junction with the east end of the Vista Trail at 5.3 miles. Ford the creek again, reaching a T-junction with the Meadow Trail.
Bear right and cross a wood bridge over Sonoma Creek to Heritage Tree, a massive big leaf maple tree on the banks of Sonoma Creek. Stroll through the open meadow along Sonoma Creek to the Ferguson Observatory at 6.4 miles. Leave the road and take the Meadow Trail to the right. Walk up the slope and veer left at the triangle junction, completing the loop at 6.6 miles.
Retrace your steps 0.4 miles to the left, back to the parking lot.
Pets are permitted in the campground and picnic area, and on paved roads in the main park area, but not on park trails or in the backcountry areas and roads. Pets in the allowed areas must be on a leash no longer than six feet, and kept inside a vehicle or tent at night.
Photography by Alvin Jornada. Robert Stone is the author of “Sonoma County Dayhikes” (Dayhike Books, 2016).
Garlic noodles from Best of Burma in San Mateo. Courtesy of Yelp.
Seventh St. Opening and Closing Spree!
An update on the whirlwind of Santa Rosa restaurant openings and closings in the Brickyard block.
Brasa, the Brasilian churrascariaon the corner of Mendocino and Seventh Street in Santa Rosa, abruptly closed a couple weeks ago, leaving folks curious about the yet-again-empty 505 building.
There has been no response from the owners, aside from an email sent to people trying to make a reservation saying, “Sorry to inform you, but Brasa has closed and is currently looking for new location. Our sincere apologies.”
Shuffles Magical Ice Cream has moved from its cavernous Seventh Street location to Railroad Square, at 123 Fourth St. We’ve heard from a friend with a youngster that the kids’ parties and magic shows are all the rage with the toddler set, and the ice cream continues to be solid at the new location.
Moving into the Shuffles location is Best of Burma, a Burmese restaurant that’s well under construction already. The restaurant has another location in San Mateo. (OMG are we really getting Burmese? Agggghhhrrrrrrr, excited!) If you’re not familiar with Burmese food (Burma is actually known as Myanmar), it incorporates the flavors and traditions of many cultures and regions ranging from China and Thailand to India and Pacific Islands. With lots of fresh ingredients, salads and seafood, it’s a welcome addition to our lineup of ethnic cuisines in the North Bay.
La Perla Peruvian restaurant has changed its named to Panka Peru Cocina Peruana, with a simplified menu that’s more in line with weekday lunchers in both price and offerings, keeping their amazing ceviche and lomo saltado and losing some of the more expensive and complex dishes.
Finally, a Mexican restaurant is under construction at the former BBQ Spot. We saw a gentleman with a Mi Burrito shirt heading inside, but so far no exact word on the owners (and no ABC license yet).
We’d be remiss not to mention the other remaining restaurants, Haku Sushi (which seems to be gaining some steam) and the newly reopened Kafal (formerly Ganesh), which has been serving some solid and affordable $8.99 lunch specials. Sprenger’s Tap Room continues to bring massive crowds to the long-suffering block between Mendocino and B streets.
Sonoma County Pride festivities kick off this weekend along the Russian River, with dances and pool parties that lead up to a Sunday parade through downtown Guerneville and a festival at Guerneville Lodge. And with hundreds of revelers in town for the weekend, it’s a perfect time to showcase Sonoma County’s gay-friendly attractions, many of them within driving distance of Guerneville.
The area’s gay popularity dates back to the mid-1970s, when its first gay resort, the Russian River Lodge, opened in the Forestville location that now holds the upscale Farmhouse Inn. Philadelphia transplant Peter Pender followed in 1977 by taking over Murphy’s resort in Guerneville and remaking it into Fife’s, a gay resort that lasted nearly 30 years. It went mainstream in 2006, and is now Dawn Ranch.
Guerneville still boasts the only two gay bars in Sonoma County — the landmark Rainbow Cattle Company and the r3 Hotel bar (formerly the Triple R).
Sonoma County Pride festivities kick off this weekend along the Russian River. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Restaurants
LGBT entrepreneurs have helped revitalize downtown Guerneville. Bob Pullum recently bought and painstakingly restored the landmark 1921 Bank of Guerneville building on Main Street after it had been abandoned for nearly 30 years. It reopened a year ago as the Guerneville Bank Club, housing three businesses and the Russian River Historical Society. Plans are in the works to open a fourth business that will offer wine tastings. 16290 Main St., 666-9411.
Crista Luedtke owns the upscale Boon Hotel and Spa at 14711 Armstrong Woods Road, which she bought eight years ago. Soon afterward she opened Boon Eat + Drinkrestaurant, the Big Bottom Market and, in 2014, the El Barrio Bar and light-bites restaurant. All of her businesses except the hotel are clustered on Main Street.
Guerneville resident David Blomster bought out the landmark Pat’s restaurant on Main Street in 2013 and still operates it as Pat’s, but by night the restaurant is transformed into a Korean eatery named Dick Blomster’s. 16236 Main St., 869-8006.
In late 2014, retired gay San Francisco Police Department members Chuck Limbert and John Stephens opened the fire-house themed 3 Alarm Grill, featuring very tasty Midwestern comfort food. 16218 Main St., 604-6102.
Christa Luedtke is one of the visionaries behind Guerneville’s recent transformation. Luedtke owns and runs Boon Hotel + Spa, Boon Eat + Drink, Big Bottom Market and El Barrio Bar. (Chris Hardy / Sonoma Magazine)
Gay Stays
r3 HotelOn Saturday afternoon, the 23-room Guerneville hotel will host the Sonoma Pride pool party. Year round, it hosts a number of community fundraisers and attracts visitors with live acts and pool parties. Day-trippers are welcome to hang out by the pool for free, with the expectation that they will buy at least a drink while they are there. Those who work up an appetite can satisfy it at Betty Spaghetti restaurant, which serves comfort food daily. Although known as a gay hotel, the hotel’s owner emphasizes that its guests are a mix of gay and straight. 16390 Fourth St., 869-8399.
The WoodsThis neighboring 19-room hotel features a huge pool surrounded by impeccably maintained rooms and cabins. The pool’s clothing optional policy was eliminated except during Lazy Bea weekend to attract a more mainstream straight-friendly clientele. The hotel’s name is a nod to the long-closed gay Woods resort near the Armstrong Woods. Overall, it’s a great property, perfectly situated just two blocks from Main Street. 16484 Fourth St., 877-887-9218.
A gay couple took over Guerneville’s popular Johnson’s Beach resort last year, and they are already drawing rave reviews for recent improvements. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
The Highlands ResortThis 10-unit, plus 10 campsite, property is the gayest of the resorts, although it is owned by a straight and obviously very gay-friendly couple. Its pool is clothing optional, and the owners estimate that 98 percent of their guests are LGBT. The bucolic property sits on a hill just above downtown, amid a grove of redwoods. The campground was renovated last month to include wooden fencing that separates the campsites. 14000 Woodland Drive, 869-0333,
Johnson’s BeachA gay couple took over Guerneville’s popular Johnson’s Beach resort and concession last year, and they already are drawing rave reviews for improvements made to the resort’s cabin rooms and expansive campsite. The Johnson’s Beach concession includes refreshments and kayak rentals. As with its previous owners, the guests are mixed and gay friendly. 16215 and 16217 First St., 869-2022.
If you are staying in Guerneville, be sure to check out the Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence legendary monthly charity bingo game. The next game starts at 7 p.m. June 11 at the Veterans Memorial Hall, First and Church streets.
If you are staying in Guerneville, be sure to check out the Sisers of Perpetual Indulgence’s legendary charity bingo. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Events
The biggest gay event in Sonoma County is not this weekend’s Pride celebration, but Lazy Bear Weekend, which celebrates its 20th year Aug. 3 to 8 with a series of events and activities that draw visitors from throughout the world. Hotel rooms in Guerneville fill up early, and it’s not uncommon for last-minute attendees to stay as far away as Santa Rosa. (Although Santa Rosa’s last gay bar closed in 2001, LGBT-focused gatherings can be found on the Sonoma GayDar Facebook page.)
The biggest lesbian-focused event is Women’s Weekend, which meets in mid-May. The weekend, which has been going on for more than three decades, is good timing for the women to take over Guerneville before the summer rush makes hotel rooms scarce and more expensive.
Of course, the wine industry is one of Sonoma County’s biggest draws, but Gay Wine Weekend may be the best way to experience it. From June 17 to 19, Out in the Vineyard has scheduled three days of LGBT-focused tastings, meals, receptions, a pool party, a twilight T-dance and a fundraising auction.
Attending Gay Wine Weekend is a great way to explore Sonoma County wine. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Sights
Guerneville makes a perfect gay-friendly home base for exploring Sonoma County. The coastline is just 20 minutes away, with the Russian River emptying into the ocean at Jenner. Most first-time visitors from Guerneville make stops along the way at the picturesque towns of Monte Rio and Duncans Mills.
Armstrong Woods State Natural Reserve is a must-see for anyone visiting Guerneville, a little more than 2 miles from downtown. It is named for 19th century logger Colonel James Armstrong, who decided to set aside 805 acres of his land as a redwood forest sanctuary. The park’s oldest tree is more than 1,400 years old; the tallest is 310 feet, a little longer than a football field. 17000 Armstrong Woods Road, 869-2015.
The Raymond Burr Vineyards is a fun stop about 45 minutes north of Guerneville. At the Dry Creek Valley tasting room, you can sample and purchase wines made by Robert Benevides, longtime life and business partner of the actor who starred in the TV series “Perry Mason.” Burr died in the couple’s home there in 1993, and memorabilia of the late actor is displayed in the tasting room. 8339 W. Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 433-8559.
Alfred Hitchcock movie fans might remember that Raymond Burr played a killer in the legendary director’s 1954 film, “Rear Window,” but an even more memorable Hitchcock thriller, “The Birds,” was filmed in the Sonoma County towns of Bodega and Bodega Bay. Residents of both towns have kept the memory alive.
Bodega is a scenic 35-minute drive south of Guerneville. The old schoolhouse shown in the film remains, across the road from a statue of Hitchcock that stands watch in front of the Bodega Country Store, which boasts the world’s largest collection of Hitchcock memorabilia. 17190 Bodega Highway, Bodega, 377-4056.
Dock scenes were filmed at The Tides Wharf Restaurant and Bar in Bodega Bay, and although the famous scene in which the gas station exploded was shot in a Hollywood back lot, it was superimposed onto the real Bodega Bay. Some film memorabilia can be found in the restaurant’s lobby, 835 Highway 1. The Sonoma Coast Visitors Center is across the street at 850 Highway 1, and has information about “The Birds” filming sites.
With all that sightseeing and exhausting wine tastings, you might be in the mood to do nothing but be pampered. The very gay-friendly Osmosis Spa in Freestone has you covered. A scenic 30-minute drive through a redwood forest from Guerneville, Osmosis is known for its signature treatment, a cedar enzyme bath made from finely ground cedar, rice bran and plant enzymes.
After all these activities, you might be in the mood to do nothing but be pampered. The very gay-friendly Osmosis Spa in Freestone has you covered. (Crista Jeremiason / The Press Democrat)
It’s summertime, which means it’s time to get your butt in a boat on the Petaluma River. With several establishments in Petaluma eager to help people get into a boat, enjoying the river has never been easier.
Clavey Paddlesports
You can’t miss Clavey Paddlesports, with its fresh blue and orange paint, at 409 Petaluma Blvd. South. Co-owner Jeff Kellogg opened Clavey in Petaluma in 1994.
Two blocks from the Petaluma River, Clavey supplies paddles, kayaks, rafts, SUPs, books, bike and boat racks, fishing accessories, clothing and maps. Team Clavey helps you get your boat on your car so you can get your butt in a boat, using their unique driving distances map to find a place to put in.
Clavey also leads multiple themed tours, from bioluminescence on Tomales Bay to the Petaluma Marsh tour — paddling on high tide in the marsh with an experienced guide is magical.
Recently, Kellogg said, “We put 120 people on the water. That, to me is more meaningful than anything, really. We’ve exposed people, and if they come back and buy a boat and a board, that’s great. That’s something that Costco won’t do for you.”
Kellogg defines his in-store employees and field staff as facilitators.
“I would hope that newcomers would look in their own back yard first for recreational opportunities, because there’s a lot to discover,” he said. “I think the town itself is going to have to respond by offering more access, like The Floathouse and The Community Boathouse.”
Petaluma Stand Up Paddle
Co-owner Michael Turnquist of Petaluma Stand Up Paddle, which opened in the Marina in 2012, said, “It’s the number one SUP-specific shop in Sonoma County.”
PSUP is also close to the water. The City of Petaluma owns very little riverside property, so this is an issue for every group working towards improved river access. PSUP makes it easy for first time users to get the hang of the sport, putting the board on the water and offering free mini introductory lessons.
For experienced paddlers, they offer advanced training and racing techniques. And if you get five of your closest friends together, PSUP will design a tour just for you, here in Petaluma or elsewhere.
Interestingly, Turnquist says that he sees more recent transplants than long-time locals.
“You’d be surprised how many people don’t realize the river is there,” Turnquist said. “It’s officially clean to swim in, and there is life — you will see otters, seals, rays.”
PSUP runs summertime Wednesday night races in the turning basin for those who have spent at least an hour on a board, so there is no excuse not to try SUPping in Petaluma.
Small Craft Center
The nonprofit Petaluma Small Craft Center puts butts in boats all summer long, starting with the 10th annual Day on The River, June 5, when hundreds of residents and visitors will spend four hours trying out a huge and varied fleet of borrowed water craft, an experience representing PSCC’s vision for its turning basin rental center, The Floathouse.
Day on The River was in fact the inspiration for The Floathouse, which was publicly unveiled as a concept in 2011. Today, PSCC has gone through almost all permitting and has received a grant of $180,000 from the San Francisco Bay Area Water Trail, which will pay for 120 feet of low-floating docks, pile driving, boat racks and part of the construction of a public restroom in Cavanagh Park by The River House.
Executive Director Greg Sabourin describes the Floathouse site as inevitable.
“From the beginning, the Floathouse had to be in the downtown turning basin,” he said. “It’s the geographic, visual and cultural center of town. The [North Bay] Rowing Club is 600 meters south, and is largely invisible to the public. The Floathouse has to add to the visual and cultural experience of the downtown environment. That’s why [architect] Mary Dooley calls it ‘a beacon of boating.’”
Construction may begin in the autumn of 2017. For now, PSCC uses NBRC’s docks and the public docks by the Yacht Club for three summer boating camps: Introduction to Kayak Racing, Introduction to Sailing, and Small Craft Summer Camp, which includes rowing, kayaking, SUP and Hawaiian outrigger canoeing.
Writer Maggie Hohle moved her family from the East coast to Petaluma in 2007 and immediately fell in love with rowing on the Petaluma River thanks to the North Bay Rowing Club. She spends her spare time working towards river access for all on “Petaluma’s Longest Park.”
Having a tavern in a grocery store is a bad idea, said no one, ever.
Whether you call it Saturday Afternoon Spouse Parking or just spot to grab a cold one before grabbing a gallon of milk, Oliver’s Tavern Off the Green (located just off the Windsor Town Green, natch) makes grocery shopping a whole lot more fun.
The new pub is a casual gathering spot with local beers on tap and an affordable tavern-style menu right inside the store. This restaurant-in-a-store concept also allows patrons to eat anything from the grocery store at the tavern, functioning as a stand-alone spot for lunch meet-ups, happy hour and after school hummus plates, with plenty of tables and bar seating. There’s also a refrigerated case with cold bottles of beer, wine and soda.
Overseen by the market’s executive chefs Nick Zielke and Mark Kowalkowski , the menu is simple, but smart. Snacks include spicy salty nuts in maple syrup with cayenne and rosemary ($4.99 and totally addictive), along with pickled baby vegetables ($5.99) and ahummus plate with naan and veggies straight from the produce department. The local cheeseboard ($14.99) is one of the best (and most generous) we’ve seen, with Valley Ford Estero Gold Reserve, Cowgirl Creamery Red Hawk, Pug’s Leap Samson goat cheese and Bleating Heart Moolicious cheeses, gourmet crackers, honey and membrillo. Like it? The cheese department headed up by the fabulous Madame Fromage is steps away should you want to share a little Red Hawk with your sweetie later on.
We also tried the Lagunitas Pork Chili ($9.99) with big chungs of Lagunitas braised pork, hominy, chipotle and pablano peppers. Served wtih sweet cornbread and cilantro lime butter it’s a hearty lunch or dinner. Korean beef street tacos ($9.99) are filled with marinated flank steak, Korean-style slaw and red chili sauce. Of course there’s comforting tomato soup with grilled Valley Ford Hwy. 1 Fontina cheese ($11.99) and spicy mac and cheese with bacon ($8.99). The tavern also serves gelato and lemon tarts, but if you’re in need of a sugar rush, the bakery also happens to be mere steps away so a lunch of cupcakes, macarons and bubbly is perfectly acceptable as well.
Oliver’s doesn’t have the market cornered on pubs within stores, with Whole Foods and Lisa Hemenway’s now-shuttered restaurant/market, pioneering the idea locally. Oliver’s CEO Tom Scott says he loved the concept, but wanted to personalize the tavern for Windsor to be larger, with an external entrance and kid-friendly atmosphere. “It’s a gathering place, I want it to feel friendly,” he said, hoping to appeal to the after work, after school, happy hour crowd. That, and the “I need a gallon of milk and a loaf of bread” crowd needing a little reward — sudsy or otherwise — for an errand accomplished.
Oliver’s Tavern Off the Green, Bell Village, 9230 Old redwood Hwy., Windsor.
