Local Artist’s Work, Inspired by Decomposing Bodies, on Display in Petaluma

One of Jaynee Watson’s
Artist Jaynee Watson next to one of her installations at the
Artist Jaynee Watson next to one of her installations at the “Discovered: Emerging Artists from Sonoma County” exhibit at the Petaluma Arts Center. (Estefany Gonzalez)

For local artist Jaynee Watson, another person’s trash is her treasure. Using discarded objects and materials she finds on the street, Watson creates unique and captivating three-dimensional art pieces. Her intent is to acknowledge that each object she uses had a purpose before she found it and to honor, even glorify, that purpose in order to make viewers reconsider what art is or can be. 

“Most people would just consider these objects trash or something they can discard. When I see [an object], I think ‘this thing had a life,’” she says. “It’s like I’m preserving its history but also adding to it.”

One of Jaynee Watson's
One of Jaynee Watson’s installations at the “Discovered: Emerging Artists from Sonoma County” exhibit at the Petaluma Arts Center. (Estefany Gonzalez)

While Watson’s style can be a little hard, even uncomfortable, to digest for some viewers, it did not put off the judges of the “Discovered: Emerging Artists from Sonoma County” program – on the contrary. Watson is one of five women, out of 49 applications and 12 finalists, who was recently awarded a shared exhibit at Petaluma Arts Center and a $2000 stipend from the program. 

One of Watson’s favorite objects, used in her upcoming show, is a plastic drain cover made from Elmer’s Glue. She encountered it on a street in San Francisco and it immediately caught her attention. The man who made the glue cover (in order to keep the metal drain from getting stolen from his front yard) saw how excited Watson was about the cover and decided to give it to her. 

One of Jaynee Watson's installations at the "Discovered: Emerging Artists from Sonoma County" exhibit at the Petaluma Arts Center. (Estefany Gonzalez)
One of Jaynee Watson’s installations at the “Discovered: Emerging Artists from Sonoma County” exhibit at the Petaluma Arts Center. (Estefany Gonzalez)

Items like the glue cover stand out to Watson because they make her think of things she’s read and seen in books about forensic pathology. The glue cover reminded her of skin slippage, a process which happens to the body around seven days after death.  

“With that kind of stuff, I feel like people will think about it more at a later date and try to figure out why they felt uncomfortable or weird while looking at my work,” she said. 

Watson’s passion for art developed when she was a child. She would often ask her parents for markers, crayons, and other art supplies during the holidays. “None of my friends were into art, so it wasn’t something I talked about with people,” she said. “I just kind of kept it to myself.” 

Visitors to the
Visitors to the “Discovered: Emerging Artists from Sonoma County” exhibit at the Petaluma Arts Center mingle and take in the different art installations. (Estefany Gonzalez)

Despite Watson’s early interest in art, it wasn’t until college that she realized she could make a career out of her passion. She started as an art history major, and for a while she considered becoming a museum curator or an art historian, but when she took a studio art class as part of her degree at Sonoma State University, she rediscovered her love for making art. 

“I realized I would rather be the person making [the art] than the person writing about it,” Watson said. “I don’t ever really want to do anything else.” 

Watson’s passion for making art is so strong that she sometimes will work through the night into early morning. “I’ll look up at the time and say ‘It’s three in the morning I need to go to bed I have work at 8 am.,’” she said.

One of Jaynee Watson's installations at the "Discovered: Emerging Artists from Sonoma County" exhibit at the Petaluma Arts Center. (Estefany Gonzalez)
One of Jaynee Watson’s installations at the “Discovered: Emerging Artists from Sonoma County” exhibit at the Petaluma Arts Center. (Estefany Gonzalez)

While she remains passionate about making art, Watson is also considering pursuing a Master’s Degree to become a college art teacher.  “My print teacher changed my life. I have so much respect and love for him as an artist,” she said. “ I want to be the person to do that for other kids.”

To view some of Watson’s art in person, visit the Petaluma Arts Center, 230 Lakeville Street, Petaluma. The “Discovered: Emerging Artists from Sonoma County” exhibit runs Jan. 24 – March 18. Open Tuesday through Saturday, 11am-5pm. Closed Sunday, Monday & holidays.

To learn more about the other women featured in the exhibit, visit pressdemocrat.com

crowd shot
Visitors to the “Discovered: Emerging Artists from Sonoma County” exhibit at the Petaluma Arts Center mingle and take in the different art installations. (Estefany Gonzalez)

Don’t Miss: Try Bear Republic’s Latest Bottle Releases Tonight

Healdsburg’s Bear Republic Brewing Company, “house of honest ales and lagers,” just announced the release of fan favorites Hop Shovel and Cafe Racer 15 in six packs, adding the two beers to their year-round lineup. 

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The Bear Republic team will be showcasing the two brews at Oliver’s Market in Windsor‘s in-house Tavern on the Green tonight, at 5 p.m. As part of their “Pint Night,” Oliver’s in Windsor will also be pouring Bear Republic’s Short Shifter, a hoppy lager, and Tartare Rouge, an American wild ale. Oliver’s Market Windsor, 9230 Old Redwood Highway, Windsor 95492.

THE BREWS

Hop Shovel, a pale and hoppy IPA is brewed with high volumes of wheat and rye for a smooth, well-rounded mouthfeel. Significant amounts of Mosaic, Meridian, and Denali hops were added to create bold tropical and citrus notes in the finished brew. This beer has been a favorite among the brewing crew and local beer lovers alike since it was first released. Until now, it has only been available on draft. 

“Hop Shovel is one of our favorite beers to brew. We are very happy to add this to our year round lineup and hope everyone enjoys it as much as we do,” says brewmaster Peter Kruger.

The release of the Cafe Racer 15 in six-packs marks the official launch of Bear Republic’s DIPA series. This beer was brewed to celebrate the 15th anniversary of the Healdsburg brewery, and was named after brewmaster Richard Norgrove’s first racing bike, number fifteen. Cafe Racer 15 has aromas of bright citrus and resinous pine, derived from the generous use of 4C “old school” hops (Citra, Amarillo, Cascade, and Chinook), and is complemented by a dry malt finish. Cafe Racer 15 is one of the most sought-after Bear Republic brews and remains a limited production. It will be available in six-packs, 22 ounce bombers, and on draft, while it lasts.

Windsor’s Newest Brewery Is A Great Addition to the Sonoma County Beer Scene

Barrel Brothers’ Blonde Voyage
Founders of Barrel Brothers Brewing Company (Left to right) Tom Sather, Daniel Weber, and Wesley Deal. (Photo courtesy of Barrel Brother Yelp page)
Founders of Barrel Brothers Brewing Company (left to right) Tom Sather, Daniel Weber, and Wesley Deal. (Photo courtesy of Barrel Brother Yelp page)

With just six months under the belt, Barrel Brothers Brewing Company in Windsor continues to add brewed delights to the Sonoma County beer scene. In 2017, the brewery is gearing up to produce a series of sour beers and is currently serving up a raspberry framboise, “Gose,” and a brown sour on tap – both fantastic, well balanced, and worth writing home about. 

Founded by brothers-in-law Daniel Weber and Wesley Deal with father-in-law, Tom Sather, Barrel Brothers is built on the simple principle “if you make good beer, and make people happy in the process, the rest will figure itself out.”

Barrel Brothers Brewing Company taproom in Windsor. (Tim Vallery)
Barrel Brothers Brewing Company taproom in Windsor. (Tim Vallery)

Weber and Wesley started their careers like many other Sonoma brewers and brewery owners, in the wine industry. Weber enjoyed a career in sales, marketing, and hospitality, while Deal worked on the cellar side as the assistant winemaker of Thumbprint Cellars in Healdsburg. Their father-in-law has been a home brewer since his college dorm days at Stanford University – it was he who introduced Weber and Deal to the idea of home brewing.

Beers on tap at Barrel Brothers. Grab a pint of enjoy a sampler of several beers. (Photo by Tim Vallery)
Beers on tap at Barrel Brothers. Grab a pint or enjoy a sampler of several beers. (Tim Vallery)

After attending a beer brewing seminar together, Weber, Deal and Sather brewed hundreds of small bathes as home brewers and Deal enrolled in the brewing program at UC Davis. In December of 2015, following Deal’s graduation, the three secured a brewery location in the town of Windsor and the opportunity to flex their beer making muscles for a larger audience.

“It all fell into place, it wasn’t like jumping off a cliff, were doing this, type of thing” said Weber,  “It all started organically.”

The Barrel Brothers Porter (photo by Jess Vallery)
The Barrel Brothers’ Porter (Jess Vallery)

After a lot of hard work, the construction of the Windsor brewhouse was finalized in April 2016 and the first kegs were tapped in July of the same year. The brewery now offers growlers for guests to bring home their favorite brews, and core Barrel Brothers beers – Naughty Hops (a dry hopped IPA with a malty finish), Blonde Voyage (a blonde, Belgian Cream Ale) and Dark Sarcasm (a Porter with flavors of mocha and Madagascar vanilla bean) – are available in bottle and can be found throughout the Bay Area.

Barrel Brothers' Blonde Voyage
Barrel Brothers’ Blonde Voyage, a Belgian Cream Ale, at the Windsor taproom. (Photo courtesy of Barrel Brothers Brewing Company)

The Barrel Brothers Brewing Company, 399 Business Park Court # 506, Windsor, CA, 95492, (707)696-9487, Barrelbrothersbrewing.com, @BarrelBrothersBrewing, Taproom Hours: Fri 4-8PM and Sat & Sun 1-8PM

Barrel Brothers Brewing Company in Windsor. (Photo by Tim Vallery)
Barrel Brothers Brewing Company in Windsor.
(Tim Vallery)

 

 

5 Ways to Kick-Start a Healthy 2017 in Sonoma County

Want to kick-start your health in 2017? I’ve got five ways to amp up your wellness – mind, body and spirit – right here in Sonoma County!

Photo Courtesy of Hotel Healdsburg

Focus on You! 

Start your new year off with a series of classes offered by Hotel Healdsburg. Designed with a focus on you, these classes will help to enhance and improve your overall mind and body wellness. Their annual Spa Month in January centers on nutritious food, fitness, personal wellbeing and fashion and includes special spa discounts, as well. Visit Hotel Healdsburg’s Spa Month calendar for a full list of January events.

Hotel Healdsburg, 25 Matheson Street, Healdsburg, (707) 431-2800

Photo Courtesy of Ramekins Cooking School

Cook and Eat Clean

Learn the latest healthy cooking techniques and information from Chef and Founder of JoyFoodly, Hollie Green and Certified Holistic Consultant, Mary Sheila Gonnella at the Clean Eating Series offered by Ramekins Culinary School in Sonoma. During the three-week course, which meets once a week, you will make homemade sauerkraut, create your own personal spice blend, learn to cook a perfectly moist chicken breast, get tips for boosting your immunity with foods, and much more. Classes begin January 12th. Visit the event’s page for more information.

Ramekins Culinary School, Events & Inn, 450 West Spain Street, Sonoma, (707) 933-0450

Aromatherapy Massage. (Photo courtesy of macarthurplace.com)
Photo Courtesy of MacArthur Place

Detox, Refresh and Reset  

Need to decompress and detox after the holidays? Refresh, renew and restore yourself with a Wine Country Detox Signature Treatment at the Garden Spa at MacArthur Place Hotel & Spa.  This 100-minute treatment includes a dry brush exfoliation, detoxifying seaweed wrap, and an essential oil massage.

MacArthur Place Hotel & Spa, 29 East MacArthur Street, Sonoma, (707) 938-2929

Photo Courtesy of Fitness Revolution of Sonoma

Get Fit, Have Fun! 

If a fitter and stronger you is on your list of resolutions for 2017, consider taking the 5-week New Year, New You Transformation Challenge in Sonoma, beginning January 23. This outdoor group bootcamp offers fitness training in a supportive and fun environment and includes recipes, weight loss tips and habit coaching. Visit the New Year, New You Transformation Challenge page for more information.

Fitness Revolution Sonoma, 17000 Arnold Dr, Sonoma, (707) 931-4443

quarryhill january
Photo Courtesy of Quarryhill Botanical Garden.

Get in Touch with Nature

Serenity, fresh air and natural beauty await you at Quarryhill Botanical Garden, a Sonoma Valley treasure, which is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year.

Meander along the many winding paths of this 25-acres Asian botanical garden, full of mature, flowering plants and trees.

The garden is always in flux. Each visit throughout the year will be different depending on the season. Right now, thanks to our recent rain, the waterfalls at Quarryhill are full, flowing and putting on quite a show! If you enjoy photography, be sure to bring your camera along.

Visit the gift shop while you’re there and browse their curated collection of nature-inspired home decor, jewelry, books, stationary, and more.

Quarryhill Botanical Garden, 12841 Sonoma Highway, Glen Ellen, (707) 996-3166

 

2016’s Biggest Restaurant Openings and Closings in Sonoma County

Two Birds One Stone has opened in St. Helena, Napa, with Michelin-starred chefs Douglas Keane and Sang Yoon. Heather Irwin
Two Birds One Stone has opened in St. Helena, Napa, with Michelin-starred chefs Douglas Keane and Sang Yoon. Heather Irwin

As we look forward to the new year, and the promise of many amazing new restaurants on the Sonoma County horizon, it’s hard not to take a peek back at some of the biggest openings and closings of 2016. It was a year of big changes and many surprises. Among the changes: More restaurants focused on healthier themes, family-friendly and fast casual. Farm-to-table style cooking is evolving into something more personal, with chefs getting back to basics, but with a new simplicity and focus. We saw more Japanese influences and a whole lot less bacon. Seafood is making huge strides, with more options than ever, and great pastry spots are on the rise.

One of the biggest surprises? Several ambitious, high-profile restaurants as well as old standbys shuttered unexpectedly, leaving some serious holes in the fine dining scene, though new projects and up and comers this year will keep Sonoma County on the Michelin map.

Here are some of the most significant restaurant openings and closings of 2016.

2016 Sonoma County Restaurant Closings

Interior of Revival Restaurant in Guerneville. Photo Kelly Puleio
Interior of Revival Restaurant in Guerneville. Photo Kelly Puleio

Biggest Shocker Closing of 2016: Revival
This ambitious restaurant project by restaurateur Crista Luedtke and Chef Ben Spiegel was derailed only a few months after opening. Given high critical praise for its use of local products, fermentation, and stellar Wine Country cuisine, Revival was poised to become Michelin contender. However, owners of the Applewood Inn, where Revival was located, shuttered the restaurant without warning, shocking not only the kitchen staff, but a San Francisco critic who had a review of the restaurant planned for the coming week. Luedtke promised pop-ups of Revival, starting with a NYE party at Big Bottom Market. See the Revival review.

Santa Rosa
Johnny Garlic’s: Guy Fieri walks away from California restaurants that made him. Flagship Johnny Garlic’s promptly closes.

Seed to Leaf, Flavor Bistro, Torch of India: Ongoing construction on the square may be the straw that broke the restaurants’ back as three restaurants shutter in the busy downtown area.

Brody’s Burgers: Cheap pints and solid burgers seemed a winning combination. But just months after adding fried chicken to the menu, the restaurant closed.

Barbecue Brisket from Rossi's 1906 in Sonoma, California. The new menu features Cal-Tex bbq from chef Ari Weisswasser. Photo Heather Irwin
Barbecue Brisket from Rossi’s 1906 in Sonoma, California. The new menu features Cal-Tex bbq from chef Ari Weisswasser. Photo Heather Irwin

Sonoma
Rossi’s 1906: A valiant effort to revive the former Little Switzerland included solid musical acts and a barbecue menu from Glen Ellen Star’s Ari Weisswasser. Owners are regrouping, with an Asian-style restaurant slated for this spring.

Petaluma
Bistro 100: We were pulling for this little chef-run spot, but after a valiant effort, Chef Garrett Adair pulled the plug to concentrate on his catering biz. The good news: The restaurant was replaced by French comfort bistro Crocodile Cafe, one of our favorite openings of 2016. Also closed, longtime Thai spot, Thai Issan.

Ninebark in Napa (PD file)
Ninebark in Napa is a conde nast reader favorite for 2016 (PD file)

Napa
Ninebark: After much fanfare about the arrival of NYC chef Matthew Lightner, the restaurant lasted less than a year, despite strong critical praise. Restaurant management group AvroKo was behind both Ninebark and its previous resident, The Thomas. There were hopes to reopen, but so far that hasn’t materialized. Also shuttered Atlas Social.

Healdsburg
Ralph’s Bistro: This Healdsburg square institution had revamped to become a martini bar, but owner Ralph Tingle closed the restaurant with plans for another restaurant project in the works. The space has been in construction limbo for months, but the space’s new owner, Bill Foley (Foley Wines, Chalkboard) has plans for a restaurant called Brass Rabbit.

2016 Sonoma County Restaurant Openings

Kyle and Katina Connaughton of Single Thread Farms Restaurant in Healdsburg at their farm. Photo: Jason Jaacks
Kyle and Katina Connaughton of Single Thread Farms Restaurant in Healdsburg at their farm. Photo: Jason Jaacks

Biggest Opening: Single Thread Farms + Restaurant

The anticipation for this haute Healdsburg dining experience was near frothing in the food world. Chef Kyle Connaughton worked on the concept for this seasonally-inspired omakase-style menu with his staff for more than a year during the build-out. Wife Katina runs the nearby farm, featuring hard-to-find fruits and vegetables that can hit the table just hours after being harvested. With prices of $295 per person and up (not including wine), diners are given a bespoke dining experience that can last hours, with intriguing preparations, beautiful service ware and a luxe kitchen-as-theater evening.131 North St, Healdsburg. Read my First Look at Single Thread Farms here.

Tucker's Daily Harvest at Two Birds One Stone, opened by chefs Douglas Keane and Sang Yoon in St. Helena, Napa. Heather Irwin.
Tucker’s Daily Harvest at Two Birds One Stone, opened by chefs Douglas Keane and Sang Yoon in St. Helena, Napa. Heather Irwin.

Biggest Napa Opening: Two Birds/One Stone
In Napa, every restaurant opening tends to be significant, but Top Chef Master’s winner Douglas Keane and LA celeb chef San Yoon’s new project was high on the Bay Area radar. Like the boisterous but culinarily disciplined Keane, Two Birds/One Stone is a wonderful tangle of contradictions: Flip-flop casual with white napkin service; a menu where creamed corn and soft-serve ice cream happily co-exist with cherry blossom gelee and Wagyu beef short ribs. Solid from the start. 3020 St. Helena Hwy. North, St. Helena, 707-302-3777, twobirdsonestonenapa.com.
Biteclub’s First Look at Two Birds/One Stone

Most Interesting Town for Restaurant Openings in 2016: Petaluma

Some of the most exciting openings have happened in southern Sonoma County, where the restaurant scene just continues to explode. There are several more openings anticipated this spring.

Panisse with roasted vegetables and herbed fromage blanc at Crocodile Restaurant in Petaluma. Heather Irwin/PD
Panisse with roasted vegetables and herbed fromage blanc at Crocodile Restaurant in Petaluma. Heather Irwin/PD

Crocodile Cafe: French comfort classics like steak frites and panisse, along with creative takes like pimento cheese Gourgeres and pumpkin croquettes. One of our favorite stops this year. 140 Second St., Suite 100, Petaluma, 707-981-8159, crocodilepetaluma.com. BiteClub’s First Look at Crocodile Cafe.

 

Quinua Cocina Peruana Causa Colonial (Heather Irwin, PD)
Quinua Cocina Peruana Causa Colonial (Heather Irwin, PD)

Quinua Cocina Peruana: New Peruvian restaurant with solid ceviches and authentic South American cuisine. 500 Petaluma Blvd. South, Petaluma, 707-981-7359. BiteClub’s First Look at Quinua Cocina Peruana.

 

The Shuckery in Petaluma opened in July 2016
The Shuckery in Petaluma opened in July 2016

The Shuckery: A project of the venerable Oyster Girls (sisters Aluxa and Jazmine Lalicker), oysters obviously get top billing here, each hand-shucked behind the bar. But seafood dishes like ceviche and calamari relleno make it destination-worthy. 100 Washington St., Petaluma, 707-981-7891, theshuckeryca.co. Biteclub’s First Look at the Shuckery.

Bright Bear Bakery in Petaluma features luxe pastries, cronuts, croissants and morning buns in Petaluma. Photo: Heather Irwin/PD
Bright Bear Bakery in Petaluma features luxe pastries, cronuts, croissants and morning buns in Petaluma. Photo: Heather Irwin/PD

Bright Bear Bakery: The buzz about this incredible little bakery got out fast, as news of cream-filled cronuts (a cross between a croissant and a donut that’s too decadent not to eat), morning buns and fresh breads made the rounds. But when we tried the twice baked croissants? Love in pastry form.2620 Lakeville Hwy., Suite 350, Petaluma, 707-291-10181, facebook.com/brightbearbakery. Biteclub’s First Look at Bright Bear Bakery.

Santa Rosa

Executive Chef Bruce Frieseke and Chef de Cuisine Ben Davies at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
Executive Chef Bruce Frieseke and Chef de Cuisine Ben Davies at The County Bench in Santa RosaExecutive Chef Bruce Frieseke and Chef de Cuisine Ben Davies at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD. Heather Irwin/PD

County Bench: A significant opening, with notable local chefs Bruce Frieseke and Ben Davies heading up the kitchen. We’re huge fans of the food and the cocktails, but some service slips and staff turnover (including Frieseke’s departure) have kept the restaurant from really hitting its stride. We hope 2017 is their year. The County Bench Kitchen + Bar, 535 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-535-0700, thecountybench.com. Biteclub’s First Look at County Bench.

Polenta with mushrooms at Franchetti's Wood Fired Kitchen in Santa Rosa. Photo: Heather Irwin.
Polenta with mushrooms at Franchetti’s Wood Fired Kitchen in Santa Rosa. Photo: Heather Irwin.

Franchetti’s Wood Fire Kitchen: We’ll go out on a limb and say that this is probably the best restaurant success story of the year. Though the restaurant existed as part of the Rosso empire previously, a split let Chef John Franchetti really spread his wings in 2016. A new menu, expanded hours and unfalteringly great food using local ingredients is what has always made us love John and his wife Gesine. Finding success in a rather remote office park location makes it even more impressive. 1229 N. Dutton, Santa Rosa, 707-526-1229, franchettis.com. BiteClub’s First Look at Franchetti’s.

Focaccia with pea shoots, asparagus and cream cheese at The Pharmacy. (Heather Irwin)
Focaccia with pea shoots, asparagus and cream cheese at The Pharmacy. (Heather Irwin)

Pharmacy Cafe: Delicious, healthy, intentional food is what’s on the menu at this tiny cafe. The twist: It actually tastes incredible. Chef Jennifer McMurry (formerly of Viola Pastry Cafe) has created a breakfast and lunch menu of food with a conscience. 990 Sonoma Ave. #1, Santa Rosa, 707-978-2801, thepharmacysonomacounty.com. Biteclub’s First Look at Pharmacy.

Tomatina Italian Restaurant in Santa Rosa (courtesy photo)
Tomatina Italian Restaurant in Santa Rosa (courtesy photo)

Tomatina: Though chain-style eateries aren’t usually worthy of much discussion, we’re fans of this fast-casual Italian restaurant with good, approachable Italian-American cuisine at reasonable prices. 2323 Sonoma Ave. in Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa, 707-583-0035, tomatina.com. Biteclub’s First Look at Tomatina

Healdsburg

Sonoma Cider Taproom and Restaurant in Healdsburg. Courtesy photo
Sonoma Cider Taproom and Restaurant in Healdsburg. Courtesy photo

Sonoma Cider Taproom: More than a 5,500 square foot cider taproom, this Healdsburg addition includes a solid cafe of sandwiches, soups and charcuterie perfect for pairing. 44 Mill Street, Healdsburg, 707-723-7018, sonomacider.com. Biteclub’s First Look at Sonoma Cider Taproom.

Interior of Duke's Spirited Cocktails in Healdsburg. Photo Nat and Cody Gantz.
Interior of Duke’s Spirited Cocktails in Healdsburg. Photo Nat and Cody Gantz.

Duke’s Spirited Cocktails: Keeping up the 90-year tradition of successive bars at the location (it was formerly John & Zeke’s), cocktails are king at this bar, but with a modern twist. Duke’s is all about seasonal craft libations, aka farm-to-glass drinks that include herbs, fruit vinegars, fruit purees and top shelf artisan booze. 1112 Plaza St., Healdsburg, 707-431-1060. Biteclub’s First Look at Duke’s.

Sebastopol

Smoked trout salad at Handline Restaurant in Sebastopol. Heather Irwin/PD
Smoked trout salad at Handline Restaurant in Sebastopol. Heather Irwin/PD

Handline: Focused on “Coastal California” cuisine, the owner of Peter Lowell’s in Sebastopol, this is another spectacular opening.You’ll find plenty of seafood ranging from raw and grilled oysters to fried rockfish tacos, fisherman’s stew, halibut ceviche, and a killer salad with house smoked trout, pickled onion, apple and buttermilk dressing. Best of all: Homemade corn tortillas. 935 Gravenstein Hwy. South, Sebastopol, 707-827-3744, handline.com. Biteclub’s First Look at Handline.

Sonoma

Tapas at Tasca Tasca in Sonoma. Heather Irwin/PD
Tapas at Tasca Tasca in Sonoma. Heather Irwin/PD

Tasca Tasca: The third restaurant for Chef Manuel Azavedo (La Salette, Cafe Lucia), this Portuguese tapas bar is by far one of our favorites. Sit at the casual bar, or grab a table, and order from dozens of authentic small plates. 122 W. Napa St., Sonoma, 707-996-8272, tascatasca.com. Biteclub’s First Look at Tasca Tasca.

hi0916_starlingbar_manhattan
Starling Bar: This new craft cocktail bar in the former Blue Moon is everything a neighborhood bar should be, but with really good cocktails. 19380 Hwy. 12, Sonoma, 707-938-7442, starlingsonoma.com.

New Haven Apizza in Sonoma. Robbi Pengelly, Sonoma Index-Tribune
New Haven Apizza in Sonoma. Robbi Pengelly, Sonoma Index-Tribune

New Haven Apizza: Mexican bakery by day, New Haven-style pizzeria by night. Fernando Garcia, whose family owns Garcia Mexican bakery learned about this East Coast style of pizza after working in a New Haven restaurant for 15 years. 555 Fifth St. West, 707-931-4694, newhavenapizzashop.com.

Cloverdale
Trading Post: This long-anticipated Cloverdale restaurant is yet another feather in the cap of this emerging dining north county destination. Though the small bakery has been open more than a year, the main dining room officially opened Friday with a hearty Sonoma County-inspired menu that includes a house-ground burger on their own brioche, fried chicken thighs, Liberty Farms duck confit over seaweed, Blue Leg Farms roasted chicken, and porchetta. 102 S. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale, 707-894-6483, thepostcloverdale.com.

3 Sonoma County Wine Rooms in a Class of Their Own

Conrad and Carolyn Trinks' 1,500-bottle-capacity wine room.
Conrad Trinks and Jennifer Carollo’s 1,500-bottle-capacity wine room in Sonoma.

It all starts with a splurge on a few fabulous bottles during a day of winery-hopping. Hit the Sonoma wine trail again and add a couple more bottles to your stash. At some point, shoving cases under the bed no longer cuts it, and it’s time to find a more practical home for your wine.

So a Collection Grows

Conrad Trinks came to this realization in 2002. He began collecting wine in the mid-1990s, storing his bounty in a wine refrigerator. When it reached its 250-bottle capacity, he switched to a 500-bottle version. Trinks upgraded again in 2002, when he renovated his Sonoma farmhouse.

“I thought it would be kind of cool to have a wine room,” he said, so he sacrificed part of the kitchen and family room to create a home for his growing collection. The resulting alcove, designed by Artistic Wine Cellars in San Rafael, holds 1,500 bottles in a space the size of a large closet. Now part of the dining room, the cellar is set behind French doors that offer an enticing glimpse at the wines inside.

Cellars_Trinks_010
Conrad Trinks and Jennifer Carollo.

The walls, floors and ceiling are insulated, and the room is kept at a constant 58 degrees — important when a Sonoma summer and early fall days can bring 100-plus-degree temperatures that “cook” unprotected wine. Bottles are stored on unstained redwood racks, which include extra-large spaces for Champagne and large-format bottles such as magnums and jeroboams. The room’s compact, walk-in design makes it easy to see and access the wines.

Patrick Wallen, owner of Artistic Wine Cellars, said such wine rooms are not only functional, they’re stylish.

“Over the last three or four years, we’ve seen a lot more requests to put stains or finishes on racks,” he said. “We’re also seeing more modern designs. People are looking for alternatives to conventional wood racks, such as metal and Plexiglas. They want something different from what their neighbor has.”

Cellars_Trinks_006
The wine room sits behind French doors off the dining room of Conrad Trinks and Jennifer Carollo’s Sonoma farmhouse.

Custom cellars don’t come cheap: They range from $10,000 for a simple closet conversion with temperature and humidity control, to more than triple that amount for a room with redwood racks and granite countertops.

Trinks, owner of the Oxbow Investments real estate company, lives with his wife, Jennifer, on 2.5 acres in Sonoma. The house is decorated in a French farmhouse style, with a color palette that includes warm taupe, gray and cream tones.

With about 800 bottles currently in storage, there’s room to grow. “It’s not completely maxed out, but it’s still enough to keep us busy for a while,” Conrad said.

Robert
Robert Hausen in his Sebastopol wine cellar.

A Creative Clay Cellar

Robert “Bud” Hausen and his wife, Linda, live in a Tuscan-style home on a Sebastopol hilltop. The surrounding vineyards provide a picturesque view from their basement-level wine cellar, carved into the hillside.

When the Hausens built the house in 2009, they knew they didn’t want wood wine storage racks. Instead, their bottles are nestled in individual terra cotta-colored clay sewer tiles, cut into 11-inch lengths and mortared together.

“The tiles are just the right diameter for wine bottles, plus they keep the wine a couple degrees cooler than the rest of the cellar,” Bud Hausen said. The cooling factor is important, because the cellar is not temperature-controlled; outdoor insulation around the entry door and foam board in the walls are enough protection.

“The temperature is 66 to 68 degrees, but I don’t mind it being a little warmer than most cellars. I’m too old to wait for wine to age,” Hausen, 65, joked. “If it ages a little bit faster, that’s fine with me.”

Built into the hillside beneath their Sebastopol home, Linda and Bud Hausen’s wine cellar holds 750 bottles in terra cotta-colored clay sewer tiles instead of wooden racks.
Built into the hillside beneath their Sebastopol home, Linda and Bud Hausen’s wine cellar holds 750 bottles in terra cotta-colored clay sewer tiles instead of wooden racks.

The only snag in building the cellar, Linda Hausen said, was convincing the contractor to leave the tops of the racks uneven.

“I wanted it to look like old wine cellars I’ve seen pictures of in France and Italy, where the racks have gotten half-broken over time,” she explained. “I would spend quite a bit of time placing the tiles exactly as I wanted them, and then the next morning and the mason would have them placed so they were all straight across.”

Eventually, he got the message. “He shook his head a lot,” she said, “but he did a beautiful job.”

The rest of the cellar design was inspired by items she picked up at local antique shops, including the cross-hatched wooden mantel pieces and the wrought-iron gates that now line the cellar windows. Their contractor made tables from chunks of reclaimed wood.

The cellar holds 750 bottles, with overflow space underneath the stairs. When the Hausens first moved to Sebastopol in 2005, their collection was approximately 200 bottles. That number increased, along with Bud’s interest in wine, and now the cellar is nearly full.

CellarTracker software allows the Hausens to view their inventory, add tasting notes and read the notes of others. It also helps them keep track of where each bottle is located, by section and row.

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At Robert and Madi Mount’s Santa Rosa home, an arched wooden door leads to the wine cellar, which can hold 4,000 bottles. There’s also a tasting area kept at a comfortable 68 degrees, separated by glass doors from the stored wine.

A Grand Entrance

Robert Mount doesn’t recall exactly when he became interested in wine, but once he began collecting it, he went all-in.

“I had a friend who told me I should collect Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon, and one thing led to another,” Mount said.

“Another” now totals 2,500 wines in his 4,000-bottle cellar.

Wallen of Artistic Wine Cellars installed it in 2006, a few years after Mount and his wife, Madi, purchased their Mediterranean-style home in Santa Rosa, set on a spectacular hillside property covering nearly 10 acres.

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Madi and Robert Mount in their Santa Rosa wine cellar.

The cellar entrance is outside the house, just steps from the kitchen deck. An arched wooden door, framed by multicolored stone, leads to a tasting area separated by glass doors from the cellar.

Inside, bottles rest on racks made of stained redwood. The cellar temperature is kept at an ideal 55 degrees, while the tasting area is a more comfortable 68 degrees. The cellar is humidity-controlled and equipped with non-UV lighting to protect the wine from premature aging.

Mount, retired founder of Redwood Toxicology Laboratory in Santa Rosa, tracks his collection with Vinfolio software, which tells him the location of each bottle, the current market value and when it’s ready to drink.

Photography by Rebecca Chotkowski.

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Wine Storage Solutions for the Rest of Us

Can’t afford a $10,000-and-up wine room? Richard Peden, owner of Albion Millworks in Kenwood, and Patrick Wallen of Artistic Wine Cellars in San Rafael, offered this information:

The cooling unit is usually the priciest component of a storage area, accounting for as much as 75 percent of the cost.

For the simplest budget, allow for approximately $7 per bottle for cabinetry.

If a room is naturally and consistently cool, forgo the cooler and wall preparation.

Consider a wine refrigerator or self-contained wine cabinet as a collection starter.

In a pinch, place freestanding racks in the coolest place in the house, away from light and vibration. Wines degrade quickly with heat, light and motion.


 

Sonoma Shopping Picks: Provisions

In Sonoma Shopping Picks, we profile local boutiques and stores that stand out from the crowd and offer something extra special for savvy Sonoma shoppers. This week, we visited Provisions in Montgomery Village, a men’s lifestyle boutique that offers a carefully curated collection of clothing, shoes, sportswear and accessories, as well as “Made-to-Measure” tailoring services, to the modern Wine Country man.

Provisions

Debra and Ross Hunter of Santa Rosa opened Provisions September 1st of this year in a spacious store on Magowan drive in Montgomery Village. The Hunters both come from careers in retail in the Bay Area. Ross was Merchandising Director and Men’s Buyer for Wilkes Bashford, and spent nearly thirty years with the well-known Bay Area luxury retailer.

Provisions

The Hunters have a passion for style, design, and quality products; meticulously choosing the brands they carry. Many of the items found at Provisions are from small artisan brands made in the United States. Raleigh Denim Workshop, for example, handcrafts jeans on vintage sewing machines in North Carolina. Every pair is thoroughly inspected before it’s hand signed by the maker.

Provisions

Additional brands sold at Provisions include Filson, Manready Mercantile, Autumn Cashmere, Tanner Goods, Reigning Champ, Rouge Territory and many more.

Debra and Ross take pride in providing a unique shopping experience to their customers. They enjoy sharing the stories that come with many of the brands they carry and make customer satisfaction a priority.

Provisions Santa Rosa

Provisions is a full-service retail establishment and, along with casual lifestyle clothing, provides “Made-to-Measure” tailoring services. The Hunters recognize that few men are a standard fit, especially when it comes to suiting. Customers can make an appointment to sit down with Ross and choose material and style, then get fitted for a custom suit.

Provisions Santa Rosa

Belts, footwear, socks, handcrafted jewelry, bags and even artisan chocolate can all be found at this lifestyle shop making it a great place to find holiday gifts for him.

Provisions

Along with clothing and shoes, Provisions also offers a variety of home decor and housewares and carry locally made ceramics, cool barware and even decks of playing cards that come in a leather carrying case.

Provisions

The selection of men’s apothecary at Provisions includes skin care, hair care, soaps and colognes, as well as personal care accessories and an assortment of books, geared toward the modern man. There is something for every man at Provisions, from fine suiting and cashmere sweaters to handcrafted soaps and shave cream.

Provisions Santa Rosa

Provisions will be having an Open House & Ribbon Cutting this Tuesday, Dec 6, from 4:30 – 6:30 p.m.  In partnership with the Santa Rosa Chamber of Commerce, Provisions will be donating 10% of their sales to Sonoma Humane Society and will be featuring their new dog coats, hand made by Christel Ellsberg, pattern maker for Raleigh Denim.

Visit the event link for more information.

Provisions, 2402 Magowan Drive, Santa Rosa, CA 95405 (707) 890-5509

The Best Counter Dining Restaurants in Sonoma County

Fried chicken and waffles.

Counter Culture: Grab a stool at one of these spots and you’ll feel right at home.

Pearl's Diner in Sonoma. (Chris Hardy)
Pearl’s Diner in Sonoma. (Chris Hardy)

Hunkering down over a meal at the counter of a mom-and-pop joint has long been the stuff of movies. Who hasn’t watched that small-town scene, where the stranger arrives and walks into a diner, and the heads of the patrons — regulars, all — swivel to check out the new guy?

Soon enough, the new guy is enjoying a cuppa at the counter too, welcomed by the friendly crowd of Mayberry, USA.

These days, counters tend to be more like bars, diners more like gastropubs, and mom and pop more likely celebrity chefs basking in the aura of their suddenly chic farm-to-table lifestyle. As for strangers? In our Wine Country cities bustling with tourists, we’ve got a constant flow of new faces.

Yet this region still boasts a charming small-town mentality. We’re all villagers together, ready to offer a seat (artisanal latte optional) to a newcomer. Perhaps it’s this embracing culture, but many Sonoma County restaurants center around counters, bars and, in a more modern twist, order-at-the-counter service where food is shared at communal tables.

Since farm-to-table thrives in these parts, even at lower-key places like burger joints, you can also count on the grub being really good. Read on for some of our favorites — places where you’ll feel like a regular after just one visit, and where a seat at the counter lets you connect directly with the good folks making your food.

LOCAL GEMS

Ricardo’s Bar & Grill – Santa Rosa

Longtimers will remember this space in the Annadel Shopping Center as John Barleycorn’s. In 2011, current owner Rick Miron took over and made great improvements.

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Sip cocktails made with locally crafted Prohibition Spirits, or quaff Sonoma County wines at Ricardo’s Bar & Grill in Santa Rosa. (Chris Hardy)

You’d never know it from the outside, but enter and you’ll discover a warm, embracing time machine — a dark-lit lounge where you can cozy up to the bar and swap stories with fellow fans of classic cocktails, cold beers and comfort food favorites like prime rib French dip piled high on a Basque Boulangerie roll with a side of crispy French fries ($15.50).

You’ll immediately feel “inner circle,” sitting back in a tall nailhead chair as you gaze at the elaborately carved wood bar back. The handful of red, tufted leather booths keep the long, narrow space intimate, and nobody minds if you lean over them a bit to study the dark wood walls lined to the ceiling with historic photos of the Santa Rosa area.

The Reuben sandwich from Ricardo's Restaurant and Bar in the Annadel Shopping Center in Santa Rosa. Ricardo's
The Reuben sandwich from Ricardo’s Restaurant and Bar in the Annadel Shopping Center in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess)

To eat, there’s fried chicken — bringing a half-bird with fries and housemade gravy for a bargain $17.50 — fish and chips ($16.50) and an overstuffed club sandwich ($14).
Daily specials strike a nostalgic chord, like Monday’s meatloaf with three-cheese mac and veggies ($16.50), and Tuesday’s beef stroganoff ($16.50), all served with coffee or tea.

To drink, sip cocktails made with locally crafted Prohibition Spirits, quaff Sonoma County wines, or savor a loaded Bloody Mary complete with bacon, olives, pickles, pearl onion, bay leaf and pepperoncini.

2700 Yulupa Avenue, Santa Rosa, 707-545-7696, ricardosbarandgrill.com

Redwood Cafe – Cotati

There’s belly dancing the first Monday of the month, trivia night every third Thursday, and live music most nights. What better recipe for crowd bonding could there be? You order at the counter, then grab one of the closely set tables, and a server brings the food.

7 kinds of eggs Benedict, including a Bodega version plump with crab cakes at Redwood Cafe.(Chris Hardy)
7 kinds of eggs Benedict, including a Bodega version plump with crab cakes at Redwood Cafe. (Chris Hardy)

Breakfast and brunch are served all day, like homemade corned beef hash ($10.95), or seven kinds of eggs Benedict, including a Bodega version plump with crab cakes ($13.25).

Eggs Benedict at Redwood Cafe in Cotati. (Chris Hardy)
Eggs Benedict at Redwood Cafe in Cotati. (Chris Hardy)

In a contemporary touch, the “Triad Body Building Menu” offers items like a Tsunami omelet built from four egg whites, four ounces of turkey, mushrooms, spinach and almond cheese ($11.95) and a Chocobutter Muscle Bomb protein shake ($6.50). Lunch and dinner classics feature linguine and clams ($14.75), a mango snapper wrap kicked up with spicy ginger slaw and jasmine rice ($13.25), and the bomb: a meatloaf burger ($10.95).

8240 Old Redwood Highway, Cotati, 707-795-7868, redwoodcafe.com

Mel’s Fish & Chips – Santa Rosa

Since 1989, this tiny family-run spot has packed folks in for perfectly fried fish draped in crisp, light batter. Most guests take their meals to go, since the space truly is miniature, with a bright blue, fish-mural-painted order counter and just a few barstools facing out toward the parking lot.

Mels Fish & Chips in Santa Rosa. (Chris Hardy)
Mels Fish & Chips in Santa Rosa. (Chris Hardy)

Still, it’s more fun to snag a seat and watch the world go by as you dig into hefty combos like the #2: batter-fried Alaskan cod fillet with four fried calamari rings, two fried prawns, fluffy-crisp steak fries, coleslaw and homemade cocktail and tartar sauces ($9.99).

Locals know to come on Fridays for the clam chowder special
($3.99), or wait for winter, when there’s a “special” every day of the week.

1016 Hopper Avenue, Santa Rosa,  707-578-1954, visit on Facebook.

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CLASSIC DINERS 

Adel’s – Santa Rosa

The owners, the Atallah family, definitely know their customers at this diner just a half-mile from Santa Rosa Junior College. With service from 6 a.m. to midnight daily, plus all-day breakfast, it’s all about big portions of comfort food at reasonable prices, no matter when you wake up.

Adels' in
Adel’s in Santa Rosa. (Chris Hardy)

Growling bellies fill up on staples like chicken fried steak smothered in gravy ($11.25), a flame broiled sourdough burger with fries and all the fixings ($12.25), and a hot corned beef sandwich ($11.25). Chicken Marsala is a downright feast, meanwhile, bringing a double breast sautéed with fresh mushrooms, garlic butter and Marsala wine, served with vegetables, choice of potato, garlic bread, green salad or a bowl of the soup of the day ($17.25).

adels

Set in a former Sambo’s, the classic spot invites you to dine at the counter overlooking the open kitchen, with a spiffierthan- expected interior that’s minimalist chic with lots of wood trim, cocoa fabric furniture and — well, OK — hanging ferns for that throwback feel.

456 College Avenue, Santa Rosa, 707-578-1003, visit on Facebook.

Pearl’s Diner – Sonoma

The look is all-American ’50s, with the royal blue counter framed in red and white tile and set with fire engine red and chrome bar stools.

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2×2, Pearl’s signature dish consists of two eggs, two pancakes, two French toast slices, two strips of bacon, two sausage links and two Alka-Seltzers. (Chris Hardy)

Food leans to the greasier side of life, but meats come from Niman Ranch, produce is local, and a bonus: Breakfast is served all day. Isaac’s 2×2 sums up the adventure nicely, as a signature meal of two eggs, two pancakes, two French toast slices, two strips of bacon, two sausage links and two Alka-Seltzers ($13.95).

There’s a third-pound patty melt drowned in Swiss cheese and Russian dressing ($10.95), messy chili fries piled in cheese and onions ($5.45), and what’s not love about a big slice of freshbaked apple pie ($5.25)?

561 5th Street West, Sonoma, 707-996-1783, visit on Facebook.

Pearl's Diner in Sonoma. (Chris Hardy)
Pearl’s Diner in Sonoma. (Chris Hardy)

Sax’s Joint – Petaluma

The name “joint” is the first clue that this is the real deal. That, and the old-timers usually congregating at the counter over chicken ’n’ waffles ($12), a half-pound burger ($10) or a fried bologna or Spam sandwich on white bread ($10).

Sax's Joint in Petaluma. (Chris Hardy)
Sax’s Joint in Petaluma. (Chris Hardy)
Fried chicken and waffles.
Fried chicken and waffles at Sax’s Joint in Petaluma. (Chris Hardy)

In true diner style, there’s kitsch, like a “Beware Pickpockets and Loose Women” sign next to the kitchen passthrough, and black-and-white checkered floors. It’s about community, here, too. This past fall, the ceilings fluttered with bras hung from a clothesline as a breast cancer fundraiser.

317 Petaluma Boulevard South, Petaluma, 707-559-3021, saxsjoint.com.

Sax's Joint owner Tiffany Saxelby working the kitchen Chris Hardy
Sax’s Joint owner Tiffany Saxelby working the kitchen. (Chris Hardy)

QUIRKY SCENES

Dick Blomster’s – Guerneville

This has to be one of the most unusual eateries anywhere. By day, the place operates as Pat’s, a traditional American spot that’s been family owned and operated since 1945.

Dick Blomster's in Guerneville. (Charlie Gesell)
Dick Blomster’s in Guerneville. (Charlie Gesell)

By night, another owner, David Blomster, moves in with a permanent pop-up slinging Korean-American food. Whatever you call it, the result is crazy-popular, beloved for signatures like Korean Fried Crack, which is crispy battered chicken dressed with soy, chiles and ginger alongside vanilla slaw and buttered white bread ($15).

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Korean Fried Crack with soy, ginger, vanilla slaw and buttered bread at Dick Blomster’s Korean Restaurant in Guerneville. (Charlie Gesell)

The best seats are at the counter overlooking the display of individual-serving cereal boxes and ketchup bottles, and the constantly changing menu always tempts with intriguing bites like braised chrysanthemum leaves dressed with hot chiles, maitake mushrooms and black bean sauce ($10), or a PB& J fried in pancake batter with vanilla ice cream and Pop Rocks ($5). It’s a diner, so there’s a burger, though it’s a grass-fed cheeseburger with fried pickles, seaweed and Seoul fries (sprinkled with garlic, Korean chile, green onions, sesame seeds and seaweed) for dunking in kimchee aioli ($5).

16236 Main Street, Guerneville, 707-869-9904, dickblomsters.com

Snake River Kobe Hot Dog, LA Kalbi that is garnished with pickled diakon, carrots, cilantro, mint and kimchi aioli. Shot on Tuesday, September 16, 2014 at Dick Blomster's Korean Restaurant in Guerneville for Sonoma magazine. ( Photo by Charlie Gesell )
Snake River Kobe Hot Dog, LA Kalbi, garnished with pickled diakon, carrots, cilantro, mint and kimchi aioli at Dick Blomster’s Korean Restaurant in Guerneville. (Charlie Gesell)

THE NEWBIES

Ginochio’s Kitchen – Bodega Bay

Making its debut last August, this little waterfront cafe is the work of the Ginochio family, better known for their Bodega Bay barbecue catering business. You place your order at a small counter cut into a bright red wall, then wait at your polished tree-trunk table for classic tastes like the Toad in Hole of two fried eggs centered in toasted buttery bread slices ($8) — tear the bread, dip it in the egg yolk, and … heaven.

Later in the day, the spot gets busy with folks coming in for Grandma Ginochio’s lasagna ($10), a grass-fed Tomales Bay Stemple Creek cheeseburger ($10), and pulled pork sandwiches topped in coleslaw and homemade barbecue sauce on a brioche bun ($10).

1410 Bay Flat Road, Bodega Bay, 707-377-4359, ginochioskitchen.com

Handline Coastal California – Sebastopol

This stylish new spot, set in a former Foster’s Freeze space, is the creation of Lowell Sheldon and Natalie Goble, of Peter Lowell’s restaurant just a mile away. Like Peter Lowell’s, the emphasis is on “hyper local” ingredients primarily from the west county, including Goble’s family farm, Two Belly Acres in Sebastopol.

Al Pastor tacos at Handline restaurant in Sebastopol. The tortillas are made by hand at the restaurant. (Heather Irwin)
Al Pastor tacos at Handline restaurant in Sebastopol. The tortillas are made by hand at the restaurant. (Heather Irwin)

Seafood is the star, ordered at the counter and delivered to your long wood table, and it’s some of the best anywhere. Some dishes are casual, like fish tacos overstuffed with fluffy batter-fried rockfish, lime slaw, avocado, radish and chipotle aioli ($13), while some dishes are fancy, like Fisherman’s Stew brimming with daily catch, cove mussels, clams and Monterey calamari ($17), scooped up with warm corn tortillas handmade from scratch daily.

The crew kept the original Foster’s Freeze soft serve machine, so a meal isn’t complete without a crisp cone towering in chocolate, vanilla or mixed-swirl Straus organic ice cream ($4.50).

935 Gravenstein Highway South, Sebastopol, 707-827-3744, handline.com

Ode to Foster's Freeze chocolate and vanilla cone. Heather Irwin/PD
Ode to Foster’s Freeze chocolate and vanilla cone. (Heather Irwin)

ARTSY

Criminal Baking Co. & The Undercover Noshery – Santa Rosa

This quaint hole-in-the-wall is cute as all get-out, with curtains hanging in the kitchen window that overlooks shelves of fresh baked mu_ns, scones and cupcakes. Walls are decorated with antique breadboards, while the ceiling glitters with a spaceship daisy petal sort of chandelier.

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 Criminal Baking lemon squares in the bakery case Chris Hardy
Criminal Baking lemon squares in the bakery case. (Chris Hardy)

The breakfast and lunch menu changes frequently, based on the whims of owner Dawn Zaft, but you can be sure of one thing as you step up to order at the counter. You’re in for yummy eats like open-faced sandwiches on housemade focaccia, crepes, frittatas and fluy quiche. The signature dish is the “recovery home fries”: red potatoes baked with two free-range eggs and pepper Jack, all mounded in tomato, avocado, sour cream and bacon ($12).

Criminal Bakin
Criminal Baking in Santa Rosa. (Chris Hardy)

Just be sure to save room for pastries and desserts like blackberry-apple mini pies and mini cakes in a rainbow of flavors.

463 Sebastopol Avenue, Santa Rosa, 707-888-3546, criminalbaking.com

Criminal Baking in
Criminal Baking in Santa Rosa. (Chris Hardy)

Gypsy Cafe – Sebastopol 

This 54-seat retreat is often packed, with people lining up for a precious table or the catbird seats at the polished wood bar set with fresh flowers. It’s so cozy in here, amid brick walls hung with antique mirrors, eclectic art, vintage signs and a colorful umbrella hung from the ceiling. (Why? Just because.)

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Chef German Bacho gives us reason to come back often, too, with a changing array of seasonal breakfast and lunch items plus a weekly Friday night supper with live music.

Southern barbecue tiger prawns at the Gypsy Cafe in Sebastopol on Friday, July 18, 2014. (Conner Jay
Southern barbecue tiger prawns at the Gypsy Cafe in Sebastopol. (Conner Jay)

A “Sebastobowl” is a healthy heap of two eggs atop garlicky wilted chard and roasted tomatoes, with a scattering of toasted hemp ($11). Braised pork shoulder is very likely not healthy at all, but it’s too delicious for us to care, mantled in soft, steamy garlic greens, Rancho Gordo yellow eye beans and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese ($13).

162 North Main Street, Sebastopol, 707-861-3825, gypsy-cafe.com

"rollatini" or slices of eggplant with goat cheese and pesto at the Gypsy Cafe in Sebastopol on Friday, July 18, 2014. (Conner Jay/
“Rollatini” or slices of eggplant with goat cheese and pesto at the Gypsy Cafe in Sebastopol. (Conner Jay)

Wishbone – Petaluma

In late fall, bistro owners Miriam Donaldson and Josh Norwitt expanded service in this 36-seat space, now offering daily brunch. And a great cheer went up in the community for this hardworking couple and their very long slogan: “We work our butts of indoors and out to raise our own beef, bake our own bread, make our own jam, cozy up to local farmers and ranchers, and generally do all the things we can to put great food on your plate.”

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Eggs benedict at Wishbone in Petaluma. (Chris Hardy)

Set in a long-ago cottage, the mood is pure groovy, with mismatched drapes in the windows, a tiny dining counter for six, schoolhouse-style chairs at the wood tables, and vinyl records playing.

Truffled egg tartan and a bloody beer Chris Hardy
Truffled egg tartan and a bloody beer. (Chris Hardy)

But all eyes are on the food. Delectable recipes include the Hot Mess — polenta dotted with house-madeˆpickles,ˆroasted mushrooms, wilted kale, fermented hot sauce and a fried egg — ($12), or homemade duck eggs fettuccine tossed with sautéed mushrooms, ricotta, tomato, zucchini, peas,ˆgarlic, Parmesan, herbs and breadcrumbs ($15).

841 Petaluma Boulevard North, Petaluma, 707-763-2663, wishbonepetaluma.com

Sourdough pancakes Chris Hardy
Sourdough pancakes at Wishbone in Petaluma. (Chris Hardy)

HIP HANGOUTS

Ramen Gaijin – Sebastopol

Seats at the counter are so coveted at this izakaya that there are two — count ’em, two — areas to claim. At the front counter, you can dig into yakitori and killer craft cocktails, while the back of the building offers ramen, donburi and pristine fish dishes.

The bar at Ramen Gaijin in Sebastopol serves a selection of Japanese tea high balls along with traditional favorites. (John Burgess)
The bar at Ramen Gaijin in Sebastopol serves a selection of Japanese tea high balls along with traditional favorites. (John Burgess)

Either way, this is fantastic fare, from chef-owners Matthew Williams and Moishe Hahn-Schuman. You can watch the team in action if you camp at the back counter, and savor the perfume of shoyu ramen broth rich with notes of kombu, garlic and ginger amid the silky emulsified fats from whole chicken, pork neck and smoked hocks.

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But better than sni€ng is eating the soup, generous with slippery homemade noodles laced around soft curls of wakame (seaweed), meaty wood ear mushroom, shaved leek, tender menma bits (fermented bamboo shoots), a halved six-minute egg cooked to perfect runny custard yolk, and a crown of pork belly chashu.

6948 Sebastopol Avenue, Sebastopol, 707-827-3609, ramengaijin.com

l to r) The Pickle Plate, Yakitori (from top; Chicken Tsukune, Hokkaido Scallop, Broccoli, and Wagyu Short Rib) and Maguro Poke from Ramen Gaijin in Sebastopol. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
(l to r) The Pickle Plate, Yakitori (from top; Chicken Tsukune, Hokkaido Scallop, Broccoli, and Wagyu Short Rib) and Maguro Poke from Ramen Gaijin in Sebastopol. (John Burgess)

Bravas Bar de Tapas – Healdsburg

The seats at the tin-capped bar fill up quickly, and multiple small plates mean things get crowded pretty fast. But it’s worth some jostling for superb crispy patates bravas (potato chunks) dipped in spicy tomato sauce and aioli ($8), and a fried duck egg sprinkled in spicy chorizo cracklings and mopped up with crostini ($7).

The indoor bar at Bravas Bar de Tapas, in Healdsburg. (Christopher Chung)
The indoor bar at Bravas Bar de Tapas, in Healdsburg. (Christopher Chung)

Owners Terri and Mark Stark run a virtual empire of North Bay restaurants, but this is certainly the most interesting, boasting its tapas theme including a ham and cheese bar, plus a lounge serving specialty Spanish Sherries. So expand your horizons, and dig into delicious curiosities like crispy pig ears dipped in anchovy vinaigrette ($10) — the cartilage tastes like pork-flavored fruit chews.

420 Center Street, Healdsburg, 707-433-7700, barbravas.com

Long Cooked Pork Cheeks Bocadillos at Bravas Bar de Tapas, in Healdsburg. (Christopher Chung/
Long Cooked Pork Cheeks Bocadillos at Bravas Bar de Tapas, in Healdsburg. (Christopher Chung)

QUINTESSENTIAL SONOMA

Sunflower Caffé – Sonoma

This family-owned cafe, with its espresso and wine bar, charms with a lush garden anchored by an outdoor counter made out of wine barrels — just the spot to escape to after you place your order at the bustling counter inside.

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Super local: At Sunflower Caffe in Sonoma, the milk here comes from Sonoma County pasture cows, and eggs from a farm less than 5 miles away. (Chris Hardy)

There’s a fun story to the space, too, since it is California Historic Landmark No. 501, as military Captain Salvador Vallejo’s old home built in 1836 on the Sonoma Plaza.

The staff is proud to say that the milk here comes from Sonoma County pasture cows, and eggs from a farm less than 5 miles away — but you’ll be able to tell the fresh difference anyway, from your first bite of shiitake omelet with roasted Brussels sprouts, Swiss cheese and local olive oil ($16). There is a ravishing Reuben as well, the corned beef layered with Sonoma Brinery sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, Russian dressing and housemade pickles on pumpernickel rye ($14).

421 1st Street West, Sonoma, 707-996-6645, sonomasunflower.com

Archie Raines, left, and Celeste Raines, both of Nashville, check out the menu at Sunflower Caffe in Sonoma, July 21, 2012. The two had eaten at the restaurant three times in two days. Crista Jeremiason
Archie Raines, left, and Celeste Raines, both of Nashville, check out the menu at Sunflower Caffe in Sonoma. The two had eaten at the restaurant three times in two days. (Crista Jeremiason)

Cafe Citti Italian Trattoria – Kenwood

From the outside, it looks like a cottage, and from the inside, it’s … a cottage, set with a fireplace and white tablecloth-draped tables, even though you order at the counter. Locals like to keep it their own secret, but in fact share the wealth with increasing numbers of tourists swarming on their way to nearby wineries.

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Cafe Citti in Kenwood. (Chris Hardy)

That’s because Luca and Linda Citti, the Italian owners, keep recipes as delicious and true as at a much fancier restaurant.

Lunches bring overstuffed sandwiches such as prosciutto di Parma and housemade mozzarella on focaccia ($12.25) served with sides like cheese tortellini pasta salad (even better with drizzles of local olive oil from the cruets on the tables). Dinner dresses things up even more, with savory statements like housemade ravioli stuffed with pork, Swiss chard and fresh herbs in silky tomato basil cream sauce ($15.50), or crisp-skin rotisserie chicken fragrant with garlic, rosemary and sage served alongside Caesar salad ($11.75).

9049 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, (707) 833-2690, cafecitti.com

 Prosciutto di Parma and housemade mozzarella on housemade focaccia served alongside Caesar salad at Citti Cafe in Kenwood
Prosciutto di Parma and housemade mozzarella on housemade focaccia served alongside Caesar salad at Citti Cafe in Kenwood. (Chris Hardy)

Sonoma Winemaker Branches Out Into A Whole New Beverage

The fourth generation of the Sebastiani family has made their mark in the food and wine business. (l to r) Donny heads the Don and Sons wine company, August runs The Other Guys, an inexpensive wine label, and Mia produces a line of Italian-inspired food products under the Mia’s Kitchen label. (John Burgess)

Though best know for wine, Sonoma’s Don Sebastiani & Sons is branching out into a whole new beverage — water. Sparkling water, to be exact, with a hint of flavor and a kick of caffeine.

The fourth generation of the Sebastiani family has made their mark in the food and wine business. (l to r) Donny heads the Don and Sons wine company, August runs The Other Guys, an inexpensive wine label, and Mia produces a line of Italian-inspired food products under the Mia's Kitchen label. (John Burgess)
The fourth generation of the Sebastiani family has made their mark in the food and wine business. (l to r) Donny heads the Don and Sons wine company, August runs 3 Badge Beverage Corporation, and Mia produces a line of Italian-inspired food products under the Mia’s Kitchen label. (John Burgess)

The family-owned beverage and snack company that developed well-known wine labels including Smoking Loon, Pepperwood Grove and the recently launched Custard Wines has expanded its portfolio to include AQUA sparkling water.

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Available in flavors including Mocha, Java and Kola, the organic bottled water is aimed at health-conscious drinkers who are moving away from sodas and into the rapidly growing flavored water market. Research firm Mintel recently reported that bottled water sales topped $15 billion in 2015, with the sparkling water segment expected to grow 75 percent in the next four years. With flavors described as “dark Italian roast coffee,” “caramel and dark chocolate undertones” or “bright aromas of citrus…with sweet flavors of orange blossom,” the AQUA beverages are made with organic, natural flavors, non-GMO ingredients and 45 milligrams of green coffee, with just 20 calories per bottle.

“For the active lifestyler, it’s a way to refresh better,” said Donny Sebastiani, president and CEO of Don Sebastiani & Sons. The 12-ounce sodas are currently available around the town of Sonoma, at Community Cafe, Sonoma Grille and BV Whiskey Bar and Grill. For details, check out refreshaqua.com.

9 Restaurants to Try Right Now in Sonoma County

Eggs Benedict at Wishbone in Petaluma.

You may be trying to shed a pound or two of winter padding, but get ready to blow your New Year’s resolution at some of our favorite new (and old) restaurant and bar picks. We promise not to tattle.

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WISHBONE
Whether sourcing from their own cattle ranch or the farms of friends and neighbors, Wishbone is an ode to Sonoma County’s bounty. Brunch is the perfect storm of some of their best dishes, including the Wishburger, made with their own Scottish Highland beef, or the “Hot Mess” (polenta with house-made pickles, mushrooms, kale, hot sauce and a fried egg). Whatever your choice, consider washing it down with an El Toro Rojo spicy Mexican mocha or classic mimosa.

841 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-763-2663, wishbonepetaluma.com

Crab mac and cheese at Sonoma Cider Taproom and Restaurant in Healdsburg. Heather Irwin/PD
Crab mac and cheese at Sonoma Cider Taproom and Restaurant in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin)

SONOMA CIDER TAPROOM AND RESTAURANT
From sarsaparilla-vanilla and habanerolime to limited-run breakfast-cereal-inspired flavors, this Healdsburg taproom is an ode to all things cider. Father-and-son team David and Robert Cordtz have 23 taps featuring their oft-changing lineup of small-batch, signature ciders as well as guest beers, wines and nitro-coffee from Taylor Maid. More than just libations, the expansive space also includes cider-infused French onion soup, crab mac and cheese, banh mi sandwiches, salads and smoked ribs. The menu changes up frequently, so reservations are highly recommended. And a dog-friendly patio means Fido can join in the fun.

44 Mill St., Healdsburg (behind Mill Street Antiques and the Parish Cafe), 707-723-7018, sonomacider.com

Clam Pizza from New Haven Apizza in Sonoma.
Clam Pizza from New Haven Apizza Shop in Sonoma.

NEW HAVEN APIZZA SHOP
Mexican bakery by day, New Haven, Connecticut–style pizzeria by night. Fernando Garcia, whose family owns Garcia’s Bakery, learned about this East Coast style of pizza after working in a New Haven restaurant for 15 years. Locals say the crispy crust and traditional clam, garlic and white sauce pizza is as real as it gets — at least on the West Coast. Pies run from $14 (small) to $31 for a large. Don’t miss the homemade espresso tiramisu ($6) made daily. Beginning at 3 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.

555 5th St. W., Sonoma, 707-931-4694, newhavenapizzashop.com

Flat bread at Gourmet Au Bay in Bodega. (Heather Irwin)
Flat bread at Gourmet Au Bay in Bodega. (Heather Irwin)

GOURMET AU BAY
Owners Bob and Sissy Blanchard recently moved and expanded their longtime winetasting shop from Bodega Highway to the last available waterfront property in Bodega Bay. Tucked away in a tiny cove in Bodega Harbor, the revamped Gourmet Au Bay is more than twice the size of the original, and now has a wood-fire oven and full menu Thursday through Monday. (The kitchen is closed Tuesday and Wednesday, though tasting takes place daily). While the Blanchards serve up flights of wine on their signature wine glass surfboards, Chef Sam Badolato is at the 900-plus-degree wood oven creating roasted mussels, wood-fire prawns, crab cakes and creative flatbreads, in addition to their signature clam chowder. Though the food and wine are trip-worthy, it’s the stunning views that will keep you coming back, even on blustery days.

1412 Bay Flat Road, Bodega Bay, 707-875-9875, gourmetaubay.com

Trout salad at Handline Coastal California in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin)
Trout salad at Handline Coastal California in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin)

HANDLINE COASTAL CALIFORNIA
Made-to-order corn tortillas with local rockfish cod and chipotle aioli have folks lined up at this Sebastopol newcomer from longtime west county restaurateur Lowell Sheldon and his partner, farmer Natalie Goble. Stick with the seafood theme and grab a Henhouse Oyster Stout, or try their organic rice horchata.

935 Gravenstein Highway S., Sebastopol, 707-827-3744, handline.com

STARLING
This new craft cocktail bar in the former Blue Moon is everything a neighborhood joint should be — but with really good cocktails. Their Black Walnut Manhattan is made with their own nocino (a walnut liqueur), along with bourbon, vermouth and a brandied cherry. We also like the Bacon Bourbon Sour with a mix of bacon-infused bourbon, Madeira, maple syrup, fresh citrus juice, cherry, lime and sriracha bacon.

19380 Highway 12, Sonoma, 707-938-7442, starlingsonoma.com

SPRENGER’S TAP ROOM
Half the fun of this epic taproom is the after-work crowd piling in for a basket of sweet potato fries and a brew. We like to buck the trend and go for lunch. Order a French Dip (order off menu with onion rings and cheese inside for an extra $1) and Pinot Grigio Hard Apple Cider.

446 B St., Santa Rosa, 544-8277, sprengerstaproom.net

BREAKAWAY CAFE
This cafe is one of the most underrated spots in the Sonoma Valley, and we’re half-hoping it stays that way. Plenty of the usual suspects are on offer (scrambles, huevos rancheros, hash), but we love the extra-delicious buttermilk pancakes and banana walnut waffles.

19101 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma, 707-996-5949, breakawaycafe.com

Belly up at Duke's Spirited Cocktails in Healdsburg.
Belly up at Duke’s Spirited Cocktails in Healdsburg.

DUKE’S SPIRITED COCKTAILS
Although food isn’t the star here, the cocktails are crafted with the same care and ingredients as at many top-rated nearby restaurants. Farm-to-glass drinks at the former John and Zeke’s bar in Healdsburg include herbs, fruit vinegars, fruit purees and top-shelf artisan spirits, sometimes accompanied by a little molecular gastronomy magic. The Darling Nicki ($11) includes Mezan Panama rum, chai tea, Hamilton 151 rum, Leopold Bros. Tart Cherry Liqueur and local Spirit Works Sloe Gin. The Rangpur More ($11) melds Opihr gin with Rangpur lime shrub, pink peppercorn, saffron bitters and house tonic. The Barely Legal ($12) has Charbay Meyer lemon vodka, Giffard lychee syrup, and yuzu, lemon and grapefruit juice. Wine, beer and ciders are also on the menu, as well as nonalcoholic, house-made sodas (burdock root beer, grapefruit) and tea. Small bites include pickled vegetables, mixed nuts, chips and salsa, and Noble Folk ice cream sandwiches. Open late, must be 21 or over.

111 Plaza St., Healdsburg, 707-431-1060, drinkatdukes.com