Page 3 – Sonoma Magazine

Best Places to Eat, Drink and Stay on the Sonoma Coast, According to Locals

July 2025

By John Beck

This story was originally published in the July/August 2023 issue of Sonoma Magazine.

There is a calling.

Ask the locals who live along the Sonoma Coast. It might not be audible, like a siren call or the crash of unrelenting waves, sculpting the rocky shoreline. It might lie somewhere in the light — not just in the way it glows, but in the way it changes, often many times an hour.

Or it might be a feeling you get, as if you’re suspended on the edge of the world, when Bodega Bay is fogged in and you climb a few hundred feet up Coleman Valley Road and sit above the clouds at sunset, watching how the dying light fades not over the sea but over an endless expanse of pillowy fog.

Bodega photographer Jerry Dodrill knows the call of the ocean. One morning, as we drove into Bodega Bay on Bay Hill Road (the same route Tippi Hedren takes when first approaching town in “The Birds”), we parked in a pullout and surveyed the outstretched shallow bay, green with seaweed at low tide. “One of the things that makes the light good is that we’re on the edge of the earth,” he says. “I don’t mean that as a flatlander, but we’re on the edge of land.”

It’s also a metaphor for the people who live here. “I think a lot of us want a sense of wildness,” says Dodrill. “It takes a little bit of grit to want to live out here.”

I talked to fisherman Justin Monckton one afternoon at Lucas Wharf, asking how he was staying afloat with salmon season canceled and crabbing heavily restricted. He was fishing slime eels — a delicacy, it turns out, in South Korea. Other fishermen gave him a hard time, he said, saying he was scraping the bottom of the barrel. But hauling in more than 250,000 pounds of slime eels a year, he was surviving on the coast.

Growing up near the Gulf of Mexico, I feel the same need to be near the water here in Northern California. I’ve stood on a cliff with my kids at Shell Beach in Sea Ranch to watch harbor seals give birth to pups, then swim with them for the first time. I’ve kayaked off Doran Beach to harvest crab traps, then made paella on the beach with a local chef. I’ve caught rock cod from a kayak off Fort Ross.

And along the flats of Bodega Bay, I’ve watched a father with his arm up to his shoulder in mud, teaching his kids how to look for upwelling bubbles and dig for clams. He taught me how to dig for them, too. So herein lies the challenge: On a trip to the Sonoma Coast, you can drive along Highway 1 and drop in and out of various cafes and shops, eating clam chowder here and crab rolls there, maybe buying some artwork to take home. That’s what you do when you’re on vacation, and it’s a beautiful thing. But along the way, if you look, you can get a more nuanced feel for what’s really going on along the shoreline.

Those ochre sea stars you can glimpse while tidepooling might be a harbinger of good things to come, like the return of healthier kelp forests. You can find out more when you drop into the Bodega Marine Laboratory on open-house Fridays.

There’s a cliff rock near Jenner Bridge known as The Skywatcher, which sings when the wind hits it just right. Just ask the Kashia Pomo kayak guide who learned it from her grandmother.

Stop off and take a photo of a payphone perched on the edge of a cliff overlooking the mouth of the Russian River — it might be the best view from any payphone in the world.

Secret tunnels under Bodega Head reveal themselves at low tide — and nearby, photographers clustered along the northern edge of Bodega Bay are aiming their lenses at a bald eagle’s nest in a tree across the road.

Know all this, and you’ll have a tiny glimpse into the calling — the calling that lies just below the ripples on the surface. The glimpse into the always changing, always magical Sonoma Coast.

Here’s how to spend a perfect summer by the coast, according to those in the know.

Food & Wine

With chefs Andrew Truong and Liya Lin

At first glance, it might seem odd that Bodega Bay chef Andrew Truong is filleting a farm-raised salmon from New Zealand. It’s a Thursday afternoon at Terrapin Creek Cafe in Bodega Bay — once a bustling fishing port where thousands of pounds of salmon were unloaded on the docks every summer.

But Spud Point Marina is quieter than usual this year, as the local salmon season has been canceled due to past drought years and the effect on breeding populations. It’s a tough situation — but there is still plenty of local seafood for those who like to taste the ocean.

The salmon Truong is preparing is headed into a steaming Mediterranean fish stew, swimming with fresh sole, clams, and calamari in a tomato-fennel broth spiked with white wine, Pernod, and chiles. And later that evening, oyster grower and marine biologist Chris Starbird will drop off a shipment of fresh hatsu oysters. The oyster farm he founded in 2007, Starbird Mariculture, starts these oysters from seed in large tanks perched at the end of Spud Point’s Dock E, before transporting them to mature in the nearby waters of Tomales Bay.

Chefs Andrew Truong and Liya Lin. (Jerry Dodrill)

Truong and his wife Liya Lin have tried other oysters, but find Starbird’s are the best, especially served raw with a mignonette of shallots and Champagne vinaigrette. “The bed of his oysters is perfect. It’s meaty, but still really briny,” says Lin, who is working on a chocolate cake in the kitchen beside her husband. By this point, cooking side by side for 15 years, and raising three kids together back home, they finish each other’s sentences. “We don’t actually think anymore,” Truong jokes.

Over the years, the boom-and-bust restaurant scene on the coast has been as unpredictable as the fishing season, with frequent chef turnover up and down Highway 1. Truong and Lin’s Terrapin Creek has been the one constant. The couple, who met at the Culinary Institute in New York, paid their dues to the San Francisco restaurant scene before finding a former cafe and tackle shop in an unassuming strip mall just off Highway 1. It wasn’t on the water, but for a 45-seat cafe, the space seemed ideal — and fans arrived in droves.

Chef Andrew Truong prepares salmon at his Bodega Bay restaurant Terrapin Creek Cafe. (Jerry Dodrill)

Terrapin Creek restaurant in Bodega Bay serves fresh wild salmon. (Chris Hardy/For Sonoma Magazine)

This time of year, rising above the summer salt and tang of shrimp pasta, Monterey sardines, crudo of hamachi, and scallops, one of the most popular seasonal dishes is also one of the simplest: a corn soup. It has only five ingredients — corn, yellow onions, garlic, butter, and salt. But once, when Truong tried to delegate it to another cook, it didn’t turn out the same, which means he’s stuck making it from now on.“I can’t complain,” he says, laughing.

Still working on her chocolate cake (with cream cheese frosting, toasted walnuts and coconut, vanilla bean and caramel sauce), Lin reaches for a tattered, taped-up recipe book that looks like a Harry Potter book of spells.

Truong jokes that it’s from the Pillsbury Doughboy era. “I’ve had this since we opened,” she says, clutching it like a prized treasure. “If I lose this, I’m screwed.”

“It’s the frugal Asian in her,” he jokes. And on they go, keeping up the kitchen banter that will continue well past closing time, and maybe even for another 15 years.

Top picks

Looking for a geographical Terrapin Creek on the map? Well, there’s not one, but as TERRAPIN CREEK CAFE co-owner Andrew Truong explains, “Turtles are very symbolic and lucky in Chinese culture” and “there is a little creek behind the restaurant,” so he and wife Liya Lin just put the two sentiments together. 1580 Eastshore Road, Bodega Bay. 707-875-2700, terrapincreekcafe.com

Executive chef Ronald Andrade at Timber Cove Resort’s COAST KITCHEN has been turning heads with his monthly five-course Winemaker Dinners series. On July 20, they’ll be teaming up with Saini Vineyards. $175 per person. 21780 Highway 1, Jenner. 707-8473231, coastkitchensonoma.com

At FORT ROSS WINERY, chef John Vong likes to mix up the seasonal menu to pair with Pinot and Chardonnay — the two varietals that grow beautifully in the 53-acre vineyard along the high coastal Pacific ridges. A recent highlight: coffee and rosemary-crusted pork tenderloin, green beans, black lentils, and a Pinotage gastrique. Tastings with small bites, $55 per person. 15725 Meyers Grade Road, Jenner. 707-847-3460, fortrossvineyard.com

Wine tasting by the Sonoma Coast — Tasting wine at Fort Ross Winery in Jenner. (Fort Ross Winery)

A vibrant seafood dish from the restaurant at The Sea Ranch Lodge. (The Sea Ranch Lodge)

Even though salmon season is canceled this year, fishermen are still out fishing for rock cod and halibut. Stop at SPUD POINT MARINA for a walk around the boats and a bowl of clam chowder at Spud Point Crab Co.— and check out the fish counter for fresh seafood to take home. 1910 Westshore Road, Bodega Bay. 707875-9472, spudpointcrabco.com

You might think of the restaurant at THE SEA RANCH LODGE for seasonal seafood like ceviche and tempura black cod, but just in time for summer barbecue season the new BBQ 42000 is opening as part of a redesign of the café at the Sea Ranch Golf Links course. 42000 Highway 1, The Sea Ranch. 707-785-2468, thesearanchlodge.com

More top restaurant picks, from food writer Carey Sweet:

CAFÉ AQUATICA: Live music on a waterfront deck, from-scratch pastries, and yummy, organic bites with a good amount of vegan and gluten-free options—yes, please. We swoon over the toasted focaccia layered with avocado, arugula, everything seeds, poached egg, and smoked salmon. Owner Rachel Kulinski also wows with her rainbow sandwich piled with crispy cabbage, avocado, greens, beet spread, shredded carrots, sliced beets, pickles. 10439 Highway 1, Jenner. 707-865-2251, cafeaquaticajenner.com

ESTERO CAFE: The darling clapboard hideaway welcomes diners with delicious, all-day breakfast and lunch, crafted with ingredients from the surrounding area’s farms, ranches, and creameries. Owners Samantha and Ryan Ramey send out a fabulous chicken-fried chicken smothered in country gravy, with two eggs, golden hash browns, and greens (you’ll devour every last bit of the big dish), and thick grilled sandwiches with cheddar and Estero Gold cheese. Save room for pie. 14450 Highway 1, Valley Ford. 707-876-3333, esterocafe.com

FISHETARIAN FISH MARKET: Waterfront views are the perfect setting for a spot that specializes in seafood. This time of year, there’s usually halibut, calamari, rock fish, and clam chowder (get it with sweet corn mixed in and served in a gluten-free Mariposa Baking Company bread bowl). How fresh is fresh? Owner Shane Lucas comes from a long line of local fisher folk and sold seafood wholesale for more than two decades before launching his restaurant. 599 Highway 1, Bodega Bay. 707-875-9092, fishetarianfishmarket.com

ROCKER OYSTERFELLER’S: Set in the historic six-room Valley Ford Hotel built in 1864, this roadhouse restaurant starts with a saloon, outfitted with Tiffany lamps and a polished mahogany bar. It flows into a farmhouse dining room, then out to a patio populated by lots of cats (that’s west county charm). Dig into the Rocker signature: free-range fried chicken doused in bittersweet Lagunitas Ale-caraway gravy, then add a side of fluffy buttermilk biscuits slathered with molasses butter, plus an order of the best onion rings you’ll ever have (secret: the batter is housemade beignet dough). 14415 Highway 1, Valley Ford. 707-876-1983, rockeroysterfellers.com

Outdoor Adventures

With kayak guide Suki Waters

As she unmoors kayaks along the banks of the Russian River in Jenner, Suki Waters takes a moment to look across the water to Penny Island, watching a deer and her fawn walk along the shore before disappearing into the brush. “That’s perfect,” she says. “My name, Suki, means ‘a small deer.’ So I’m a water deer. People don’t realize that deer do swim.”

A few minutes later, we’re beaching our kayaks on the island and retracing fresh deer tracks in the mud flats, marveling at fawn prints half the size of the mother’s. Waters founded the kayak company WaterTreks EcoTours in Jenner to get students and visitors out on the water and teach them about the natural wonders of the Russian River estuary and ecosystem.

Suki Waters, owner of Watertreks Eco Tours, Jenner, California. — Suki Waters, owner of Watertreks Eco Tours in Jenner. (Jerry Dodrill)

“Every summer this was my playground,” says Waters, a native Kashia Pomo with Scottish and Guamanian ancestry. As a child, Penny Island was where she harvested huckleberries and made jam, where she dug for clams with a coffee can, and where she caught eels in the river. Waters’ grandmother, who taught her how to harvest wild foods, was born in an Indigenous village on Goat Rock Beach in 1904. And her “Auntie Juanita” caught steelhead and salmon with her bare hands in Jenner Creek, fried them up, and sold them for lunch to workers in Jenner.

Later, as we paddle westward toward the river mouth, Waters points out seals and their pups sunning on the beach by the dozens. In the water, bobbing seal heads pop up for a quick glimpse at the boat and then dive under again. “Look, at 10 o’clock, there’s a young mother, a newborn baby and last year’s pup,” she says. “It’s a beautiful thing to see — these are generations here.”

In July and August, Waters leads popular nighttime bioluminescence tours, when tiny marine organisms called dinoflagellates emit mesmerizing blue and green flashes of light in the water. The natural phenomenon is so sensitive to movement in the water that every paddle stroke glows like a comet tail. “In really strong blooms, you’re throwing giant, glowing phosphorescent balls of light 30 feet behind the boat,” she says.

Near the end of the trip, as we paddle back to shore, Waters shares a story her grandmother once told her about a rock at the top of a cliff near the Jenner Bridge. A cleft in the rock makes it look like someone with a flat nose is looking upward with their mouth open. At just the right angle you can see a row of teeth and a tongue.

“It’s called The Skywatcher, and it sings to the stars,” she says. “And sometimes it sings during the day, when the wind is blowing just right.”

As a little girl, she would ask, “Grandma, what’s he saying?

“I don’t know,” her grandmother would tell her.“If he’s talking to you, he’s telling you something you need to hear. Not me. You’re the one that needs to listen.”

With each guided expedition, Waters is trying to reconnect paddlers with nature. In a sense, she says, like a child trying to hear The Skywatcher, we are the ones who need to listen and heed what nature is telling us.

3/2/2011: A1: PC: Rebecca Pennington, left, of Sebastopol and Cody Richardson practice paragliding at Doran Beach Regional Park on Tuesday morning. Pennington buys an annual pass and Richardson will also purchase one when he moves to the area. — Kiteboarders launch from Doran in the high-summer breeze. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Dolphins are a not-uncommon sight in the waves off Doran Beach. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)

Top picks

Suki Waters’ WATERTREKS ECOTOURS is located in the Jenner “C” gas station, near Café Aquatica. Bioluminescence tours usually start around July 4 and and reach their zenith in mid-August. 10444 Hwy 1, Jenner. 707-865-2249, watertreks.com

The nine-hour, 15.6-mile hike up to the top of 2,204-foot POLE MOUNTAIN is worth it for the 360-degree panoramic views. Winding through redwood and Douglas fir forests, the hike is part of the vast network of Pole Mountain and Jenner Headlands preserves. 12001 Hwy. 1, Jenner. wildlandsconservancy.org/preserves/jennerheadlands

For experienced bicyclists up to the challenge, a ride descending from the summit of COLEMAN VALLEY ROAD, will make for an epic GoPro keepsake video. For something a little more beginner-friendly, check out Ace It! Bike Tours, offering four-hour Bodega hike and bike tours for $185 per person. aceitbiketours.com

Expert guide Kyle Monte of KAYAK FISHING SONOMA leads expeditions for rockfish, lingcod, and halibut in rigged-out, handsfree, pedal-powered kayaks off the coast of Fort Ross. $300 per person. kayakfishingsonoma.com

Want to see the coastline from a bird’s eye view? HELICO SONOMA offers thrilling helicopter tours over the coast, flying past the mouth of the Russian River and southward over the dunes of Bodega Bay. Flights take off from the Sonoma County Airport in Windsor. $175 per person for roughly 30-minute flights. 707-526-8949, helicosonoma.com

Art & Culture

With painter Joe Ferriso

Take a walk in the woods with artist Joe Ferriso, and you can see why he fled the Bay Area for the Sea Ranch three years ago. At one point, as he’s walking under a fallen log, he poses for a photo, straining to make it look like he’s supporting the mossy trunk with one hand. It’s the same playful nature that brightens his paintings.

“I can hear myself think out here,” Ferriso says. Coastal light often dictates where he roams on daily sojourns. If it’s cloudy by the ocean, he might walk down into the river valley where it’s sunny. He always carries a sketch book.

Sea Ranch artist Joe Ferriso paints abstract coastal landscapes in juicy colors. (Jerry Dodrill)

Joe Ferriso walks the coast daily, often sketching in a small notebook. (Jerry Dodrill)

This morning, he hikes along a canopied redwood forest trail near the Gualala River. As he passes a vernal pool surrounded by ferns and green mossy trunks, it seems like something he might draw or paint in watercolor. He shakes his head no.

“I just look at this and think, I have nothing to add to this,” Ferriso says. But on regular walks past stark, angular Sea Ranch houses, designed to blend into the landscape in their neutral weathered greys and wooded browns, Ferriso has plenty to add, creating an alternate Sea Ranch universe that comes alive in bright pink houses, electric green skies, and powder blue meadows. “It just feels like they want to be inverted and subverted and filled with color,” he says.

Ferriso’s medium is leftover latex house paint, poured from orphan quart cans he adopts, whether “mis-tints” at hardware stores or from friends and neighbors eager to clear out their garages. They’re perfectly suited for painting houses—but the vibrant hues would get you in serious hot water if you actually applied them to a house in the Sea Ranch, where even exterior wood stains have to be approved.

It turns out, though, that Ferriso’s paintings are just the shot of color and whimsy residents needed in the Sea Ranch, where the average age is in the mid-60s. By turning the aesthetic inside out, Ferriso turned on new legions of fans and buyers. Since a show in April at The Sea Ranch Lodge, he’s sold over 50 paintings. The Sea Ranch Lodge even sells a scarf emblazoned with one of his colorful houses.

A phrase he often returns to is “this will be an adventure.” It’s what the Long Island native said in 2009 when he left Manhattan for San Francisco, where he founded the furniture-art business Anzfer Farms. After getting an MFA at Stanford, he and his wife were raising a newborn and renting in Piedmont when the pandemic hit. Once again, “this will be an adventure” was on the tip of his tongue as they drove up Highway 1, looking at houses.

Living on the coast has been an artistic awakening. “The weather affects my work,” he explains. “But also the natural colors that are here, the flora and fauna. There are all these rich colors that are maybe not so evident unless you’re looking for them.”

“I’m kind of super-imposing some of that onto the houses as a play to see what the emotional resonance is. I know color affects people emotionally, so I’m kind of playing my own experiment. If I didn’t have a curiosity about it, it wouldn’t be fun to make them. The fun comes from saying, ‘What if this house is pink and the sky is green?’” Near the end of a hike, as Ferriso talks about the colorful sunsets that paint Sea Ranch windows purple and pink at dusk, he comes around a bend that opens onto a meadow of twinkling blue forget-me-nots. “Now, look at that,” he says, almost beaming. “Who says there’s no color at Sea Ranch?”

Windswept meadows and tall cypresses at the Sea Ranch. (Chris Hardy/For Sonoma Magazine)

Sea Ranch at the Sonoma Coast — View of the ocean from Sea Ranch. (Chris Hardy/For Sonoma Magazine)

Top picks

Check out the artwork of Sea Ranch resident JOE FERRISO on Instagram @joeferriso. Employing his woodworking skills, Ferriso also makes and sells maple building-block sets called “Jafies Joiners” (jafies.com), which have been kid-tested and approved by his 3-year-old daughter, Violet. joeferriso.com

Just standing in the DODRILL GALLERY in Bodega is an adventure unto itself. Each photo draws you in with limitless depth as light layers cascading hills into the distance or reveals secret tunnels along the coastline. It’s quite possibly the only spot in Sonoma County that can transport you to the coast without actually traveling there. Jerry Dodrill also teaches world-class workshops from Greenland to Patagonia. Dodrill Gallery, 17175 Bodega Hwy., Bodega. 707-377-4732, jerrydodrill.photoshelter.com

Often called “the Hobbit House,” the SEA RANCH CHAPEL is a stunning architectural feat to behold and well worth a stop along Highway 1 as you’re driving through the Sea Ranch. Built by architect James Hubbell in 1985, the allure of this nondenominational sanctuary lies in beautiful stained-glass windows, a natural stone floor, intricate metalwork, and a ceiling embedded with local sea shells and sea urchins. Open 365 days a year, from sunrise to sunset. 40033 Hwy. 1, The Sea Ranch. thesearanchchapel.org

The swooping roofline of the Sea Ranch Chapel. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Peace Totem at the Sonoma Coast — Beniamino Bufano’s Peace Totem soars above the rocky cliffs. (Sonoma County Tourism)

The 93-foot-tall PEACE TOTEM rising above Timber Cove Resort along Highway 1 is a reminder that many of the dreams of peace in the ‘60s are still alive and well today. Also known as “Madonna of Peace” and “The Expanding Universe,” the towering 20-ton obelisk was competed in 1970 by sculptor Beniamino Bufano just before he died. It lies at the center of a 60-foot circular state park, the second smallest in California (the smallest being Watts Towers of Simon Rodia State Historic Park). parks.ca.gov

Nature

With ocean educator Ellie Fairbairn

Ellie Fairbairn finds her daily interaction with the coast and its creatures to be therapeutic. “It’s that good feeling of feeling small,” she says. “And of being surrounded by this expanse, this pure wildness.”

The former cell biologist, who grew up in suburban Wisconsin and didn’t even see the ocean for the first time until she was 12 years old, is now the director of education and outreach at the UC Davis Coastal and Marine Sciences Institute’s Bodega Marine Laboratory, working with scientists who study the teeming biology along this remote section of coast.

Fairbairn is part of a tight-knit community of nature lovers, artists, and seekers—she believes this remote section of coastline “self-selects” for many of the characters who wind up there.

Marine educator Ellie Fairbairn finds her peace exploring along the coast. (Jerry Dodrill)

Ellie Fairbairn tide-pooling on the Sonoma Coast, Jenner, California — Fairbairn holds a tiny By-the-Wind Sailor in the palm of her hand. (Jerry Dodrill)

At low tide on a weekday morning at Schoolhouse Beach, the briny smell of marine life hangs in the breeze as waves crash into barrier rocks sheltering the tidepools. Bounding from pool to pool in knee-high boots, Fairbairn is very much in her element. It doesn’t take long before she reaches into a tidepool to pull out a colorful, blue-tinted jelly that looks like something you might find in a bag of gummy candies.

“It’s a By-the-Wind Sailor,” she says, holding it flat in her palm. Also known by its scientific name, Velella velella, the inch-long organism has an upright flap that acts like a sail to propel it across the water, like a gelatinous blue sun dial posing as a sailboat. On windy days, they’ll wash up onshore by the hundreds.

“I love tidepool picking, just wandering around and looking under rocks to see what’s out there,” she says, standing on the edge of a pool ringed with green anemones and immovable pink and purple starfish. “It kind of turns everybody into their inner child again.”

As she explores the rippling pools, rich with red, brown, and green algae and different kinds of kelp, she’s encouraged by an ochre sea star she sees clinging to a rock. “They were really hit hard by sea star wasting disease, but they’ve come back well in the last couple of years,” she says. Seeing the sea star is a small, positive sign after a troubling warm mass of water led to a steep decline in bull kelp forests and an unhealthy rise in the population of sea urchins. Sea stars are an important predator of sea urchins.

“The big sunflower stars are near threatened and may be going on extinction lists locally,” Fairbairn says. “We think we lost 99 percent of those locally.”

As she moves from one pool to another, something else catches her eye, and she reaches in up to her elbow to pull out a squirming rock crab. “I don’t recommend this for everyone unless you like getting pinched,” she says, holding up the spidery crustacean by its black-tipped claws.

Back on the beach, she tells the story of a six-month spell she spent landlocked. “The first time I saw the ocean after that, I cried. I didn’t see it coming, but I came over this hill and saw the water and tears just started flowing. I would find it hard to imagine being away from the ocean now.”

Seabirds at Salt Point. (Mariah Harkey/Sonoma County Tourism)

Stands of mussels and sea stars signal a small recovery along the coast after several years of challenging conditions. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

Top picks

Public tours of the BODEGA MARINE LABORATORY are offered every Friday afternoon. Check out marinescience.ucdavis.edu/bml to reserve a spot in advance. Also, Ellie Fairbairn hosts a Science Uncorked series paring scientific talks with wine tastings at Gourmet Au Bay, 1412 Bay Flat Road, Bodega Bay. Find out more at gourmetaubay.com or email scienceuncorked@gmail.com.

North of Bodega Bay, more than a dozen beach pullouts along Highway 1 offer excellent tidepooling. Fairbairn likes this stretch of the coast because it’s accessible to visitors, and several of her colleagues have done research here over the years. GERSTLE COVE STATE MARINE RESERVE in Salt Point State Park and Shell Beach, three miles south of Jenner, are also promising destinations. Tidepooling doesn’t call for much: just a curious mind and a willingness to slow down. To be safe, check conditions first and don’t turn your back on the waves. A small guidebook, such as Ron Russo and Pam Olhausen’s “Pacific Intertidal Life” can help identify what you see.

“Forest bathing is not a hike, but rather a slow, mindful walk in nature,” says Jenny Harrow-Keeler, a Sonoma County certified nature therapy guide. One of her favorite spots for forest bathing along the coast is KRUSE RHODODENDRON STATE PARK. “It’s not a huge hiking or mountain biking destination. It feels like a hidden gem along the Sonoma Coast and is a perfect spot to escape the hustle and bustle of life and tune into the healing power of nature,” says Harrow-Keeler. ecowisdomwellness.com

Ever have an ocean shell therapy massage, one with alternating warm and cool shells to soothe muscles and relieve inflammation? It’s one of many luxe treatments offered at the LODGE AT BODEGA BAY. Also check out yoga, pilates, and meditation sessions. 103 Highway 1, Bodega Bay. 707-875-3525. lodgeatbodegabay.com

Beautiful STARCROSS MONASTIC COMMUNITY is a 15-minute drive inland from Sea Ranch. Every Friday afternoon, visitors can walk the 90-acre property, reconnect with nature, and learn more about this remote interfaith monastery. Their farmstand, where visitors can purchase homemade olive oil and farm produce, is open daily. During the summer, Starcross offers $5 all-you-can-pick blackberries. Bring a lunch; it’s a popular spot for family picnics. Starcross founding member Julie DeRossi says a quiet, meditative nature outing at the monastery can help guests slow down and be present. “It’s a complete sensory experience. When you’re in the olive grove or in the forest among the redwoods, you’re surrounded by and part of something that’s so much bigger than your little preoccupations. It just shifts your mindset.” 34500 Annapolis Road, Annapolis. 707-886-1919, starcross.org

River's End at the Sonoma Coast — Coast views at River’s End in Jenner. (River’s End)

Where to Stay at the Coast

Built in the late 1800s, DILLON BEACH RESORT features a handful of quaint cabins on the beach at the mouth of Tomales Bay on the Sonoma-Marin County line. 1 Beach Ave., Dillon Beach. 707-878-3030, dillonbeachresort.com

Perched just up the hill from the Tides Wharf & Restaurant, where Alfred Hitchcock’s “The Birds” plays on loop 24/7 in the lobby, THE INN AT THE TIDES features 85 rooms and a spacious pool. 800 Hwy. 1, Bodega Bay. 707-875-2751, innatthetides.com

Overlooking untouched marshlands and the dunes of Doran Beach, THE LODGE AT BODEGA BAY offers seasonal fine dining at Drakes Sonoma Coast and plenty of options for spa treatments and fitness classes. 103 Hwy. 1, Bodega Bay. 707-875-3525, lodgeatbodegabay.com

Come for the view and a delicious sunset meal, perched atop the mouth of the Russian River, and stay for the night at RIVER’S END, where the vintage cabins promise a “luxe unplugged experience” with “no Wi-Fi, no newspapers, no outside distractions.” 11048 Hwy. 1, Jenner. 707-865-2484, ilovesunsets.com

A perfect spot for watching migrating whales, FORT ROSS LODGE is an ideal jumping off point for exploring Fort Ross State Park, Stillwater Cove, and Salt Point State Park. And in case you want to cook up the fresh fish you caught that day, every room has a grill on the patio. 20706 Hwy. 1, Jenner. 707-847-3333, fortrosslodge.com

Timber Cove Resort's soaring main hall. (The Nomadic People) — Timber Cove Resort’s soaring main hall. (The Nomadic People)

At Timber Cove Resort's Coast Kitchen. (Timber Cove Resort) — At Timber Cove Resort’s Coast Kitchen. (Timber Cove Resort)

Built in 1963 and renovated in 2016, TIMBER COVE RESORT prides itself on rest, relaxation and meditation. Bonus: Every room boasts a record player and vinyl records to choose from. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are taken care of in the Coast Kitchen. 21780 Hwy. 1, Jenner. 707-847-3231, timbercoveresort.com

The bustling hub of Sea Ranch village, recently renovated THE SEA RANCH LODGE is one of the oldest buildings, featuring a general store, cafe, dining room, and post office – and every excuse to walk along the bluffs and start your seascape sojourn. 60 Sea Walk Drive, The Sea Ranch. 707-579-9777, thesearanchlodge.com

Condominium One Story on 50th anniversary of Sea Ranch — Rent a contemporary vacation home in the iconic Sea Ranch. (Chris Hardy/For Sonoma Magazine)

The living room of Donlyn Lydon's house. Story on 50th anniversary of Sea Ranch — Rent a contemporary vacation home in the iconic Sea Ranch. (Chris Hardy/For Sonoma Magazine)

Stay in the Iconic Sea Ranch

In the 1960s, when a team of architects transformed a 5,200-acre sheep ranch into a remote North Coast village called the Sea Ranch, it was a radical idea. Their challenge: to find an environmentally sensitive way to build on this remote stretch of the northern Sonoma Coast, this “beautiful and fragile land,” as one historian termed it.

Forming an unconventional team, developer Al Boeke, landscape architect Lawrence Halprin and architects Joe Esherick, Richard Whitaker, Donlyn Lyndon, Charles Moore and William Turnbull began erecting timber-framed houses with high, slanted roof lines and cedar-shingle siding that quickly greyed in the harsh salt air. The look was inspired by the aesthetic of local barns and farms, and blended in with the landscape to allow for unobstructed ocean views.

The Sea Ranch became an architectural utopia, nestled in coastal prairies and clusters of Monterey cedar and pine along a 10-mile stretch of coastline between Stewart’s Point and Gualala. As the far-flung village began to evolve and grow into neighborhoods, it attracted visitors from all over the world. And its designers found themselves at the forefront of a new modernist architectural school known as the “Sea Ranch Style,’ which would be widely copied in the years to come.

Nearly six decades later, the Sea Ranch is still a prized year-round getaway and coastal retreat for families and explorers who walk the coastal bluffs, observe the wildlife, and delicately drop in on a handful of beaches.

Check out vacasa.com and airbnb.com to find available homes to rent in all shapes and sizes.

Jimtown and Then Sum Is Officially Open in Healdsburg

July 2025

By Heather Irwin

Shrimp and pork shumai from dim sum specialist Michelle Wood, the new owner of Jimtown Store, at her home in Santa Rosa, Friday, Jan. 24, 2025. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Although Alexander Valley’s Jimtown and Then Sum market and deli opened two weeks ago with coffee, morning pastries, sandwiches, salads and sushi rolls, owner Michelle Wood held off on adding her coveted dim sum to the roadside market’s menu — until now.

This weekend, the revamped market will mark its official grand opening with a $70 dim sum plate from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday. The meal includes six items from Wood’s newly launched dim sum menu.

“The menu will highlight our dim sum service and what is to come,” said Wood, who added that a limited selection of popular dim sum items will be available on weekdays.

Jimtown and Then Sum — Shrimp and pork shumai from dim sum specialist Michelle Wood, the new owner of Jimtown Store, at her home in Santa Rosa, Friday, Jan. 24, 2025. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Throughout the weekend, the store will also offer a limited menu of coffee, pastries and grab-and-go items. On Saturday, Wood will serve a ticketed barbecue menu ($70) with assorted meats and sides. Jimtown will be closed Friday.

Wood owns the catering company Dim Sum and Then Sum, known for its handmade Chinese dumplings, steamed buns and spring rolls inspired by family recipes. She purchased the property nearly 18 months ago and formally took over the historic Jimtown Store from longtime owner Carrie Brown in late 2023.

Jimtown owner Michelle Wood — Michelle Wood, the owner of Jimtown and Then Sum market and deli in Healdsburg, serves coffee, morning pastries, sandwiches, salads, sushi rolls and, of course, dim sum. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

The store on Highway 128 first opened in 1893 as a post office, general store and gathering place for Alexander Valley residents.

Jimtown’s modern era began in 1991, when Brown and her late husband, John Werner, took over the space. It became an offbeat destination for visitors, who enjoyed Brown’s eclectic collection of toys, candies and housewares. Locals came for the sandwiches, Brown’s famous Chain Gang Chili and neighborhood gossip.

Preorder tickets for dim sum and barbecue at jimtown.com/order.

6706 Highway 128, Healdsburg, jimtown.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

Where to Have a Fabulous Fourth of July in Sonoma County

July 2025

By Sonoma Magazine Staff

Santa Rosa’s Red, White, and BOOM fireworks show at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds in Santa Rosa, on July 4, 2013. (Alvin Jornada / For The Press Democrat)

Fireworks will sparkle over the Sonoma County Fairgrounds on the Fourth of July for the first time since 2019.

The celebration, “Fired Up Freedom,” features a full afternoon of festivities, including live music and food vendors, culminating in what promises to be one of the largest fireworks displays in the county.

Another beloved local tradition, the World Pillow Fighting Championships, also marks its return at the Santa Rosa event. Once a hallmark of Kenwood’s July 4th festivities, the pillow fights saw competitors duking it out on a pole perched over a mud pit, but that ended in 2006 after 40 years of friendly competition.

Tickets are $10 per person and include parking. sonomacountyfair.com

Fourth of July fireworks — A fireworks show at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds in Santa Rosa. (Alvin Jornada / For The Press Democrat)

More to Check Out

Windsor

Windsor Kaboom! — 4-10 p.m. July 3, Keiser Park. windsorkaboom.com

Sebastopol

Fireworks & Music Extravaganza — 4-10 p.m. July 3, Community Cultural Center. seb.org

Rohnert Park

4th of July Fireworks Spectacular — Featuring the Santa Rosa Symphony and Transcendence Theatre Company, Green Music Center, 7:30 p.m. gmc.sonoma.edu

Sonoma

Parade at Sonoma Plaza — 10 a.m. July 4. Fireworks at dusk at General Vallejo Field. sonomacity.org

Healdsburg

Independence Day Fireworks — 9:30 p.m., July 4. Viewing areas at Healdsburg High School and Fitch Mountain Elementary. ci.healdsburg.ca.us

Find more Fourth of July events in Sonoma and Napa counties here.

Tiny Trillium Winebar in Guerneville Is Setting the Bar High

July 2025

By Carey Sweet

Mary Cecile Agneberg, the “MotherShucker,” brings a short knife and plenty of muscle when prying open mollusks at Trillium Winebar & Taproom Friday, February 28, 2025, on Main Street in Guerneville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

A retired librarian and an accomplished chef walk into a bar. On a whim, they decide to take over the space. There’s no punchline — that’s just how Sonoma County came to have the new Trillium, a lovely little cafe and wine lounge in downtown Guerneville.

The shoebox-size spot is the work of Genevieve Payne, who began studying wine at Santa Rosa Junior College and traveled around Europe after leaving her career as a bibliophile. The co-owner and chef is Greg Barnes, who has worked with legends such as Jeremiah Tower, Traci Des Jardins, and Duskie Estes, and who has known Payne for a decade.

The long-vacant space the team took over, right near the landmark Rainbow Cattle Company bar, came with some kitchen challenges, namely a lack of space for equipment to work with grills and live fire. So Barnes developed a sophisticated menu around a raw bar and selections from a giant convection oven and cooktop. The raw bar offers the oysters, poke, crudo and ceviche that have become Trillium’s signature.

Hot Oysters grilled with, front to back, aged cheddar & jalapeño, spinach, garlic & parmigiano and chipotle bourbon butter from Trillium Winebar & Taproom Friday, Feb. 28, 2025, on Main Street in Guerneville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

New England Style Crab Roll with Dungeness crab salad, gem lettuce, house pickles on house baked brioche bun from Trillium Winebar & Taproom Friday, February 28, 2025, on Main Street in Guerneville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — New England Style Crab Roll with Dungeness crab salad, gem lettuce, house pickles on house baked brioche bun from Trillium Winebar & Taproom Friday, Feb. 28, 2025, on Main Street in Guerneville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

There’s sumptuous seafood chowder and a sensational New England-style crab roll ($32), on a toasted, house-baked brioche split roll with a side of tangy house pickles, a sandwich that won a gold medal at last fall’s Sonoma County Harvest Fair. The seafood chowder is a standout, too, with a rich white-wine-and-cream base with chopped mussels, prawns, red potatoes, and hickory-smoked sous vide bacon over a base of heavy cream and white wine, with fresh thyme, Old Bay seasoning, and a splash of Louisiana Crystal hot sauce to make it sing.

The wine list is extensive and interesting, focusing on natural wines, including a dry, citrusy Colliano Sparkling Ribolla Gialla from Slovenia and the certified organic, gently tropical Folk Machine Potter Valley Sauvignon Blanc. There are also craft beers and ciders on tap, nonalcoholic cocktails and wine flights. Tiny Trillium, in tiny Guerneville, is setting the bar high.

16222 Main St., Guerneville. 707-604-5750, trillium.bar

This story was originally published in The Press Democrat. Read the full story here.

Michelin-Starred Restaurants in the Bay Area

June 2025

By Maci Martell

A dish at Cyrus restaurant in Geyserville. (J Evan)

The famed Michelin Guide has long been affirming what locals have known for years — the Bay Area is a food mecca. Residents and national publications alike rave about the area’s acclaimed chefs and their award-winning restaurants.

Sonoma County alone has an abundance of excellent restaurants, from fine dining bistros to casual community hubs. Some of our favorites earned stars in the recent 2025 Michelin Guide awards ceremony, including two stars for the new Enclos in Sonoma. It’s the first and only Michelin-starred restaurant in the city.

Below are all the Michelin-starred restaurants in Sonoma and Napa counties, as well as the rest of the Bay Area.

Sonoma County

Enclos restaurant in Sonoma — Marin Oyster with dill, rose geranium and fava leaf served in an ice bowl from the 11-course tasting menu at Enclos in Sonoma, Thursday, Jan. 16, 2025. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

New Two Stars

Enclos, Sonoma

Enclos has been eyeing a Michelin star since it opened late last year. Last week, the Michelin Guide awarded it two stars for its “opulent tasting menu,” featuring locally sourced contemporary cuisine. Enclos also received a green star, Michelin’s sustainability award. 139 E. Napa St, Sonoma, 707-387-1724, enclos-sonoma.com

Three Stars

SingleThread, Healdsburg

Repeatedly named among the world’s best restaurants, SingleThread retained its three Michelin stars for “exceptional cuisine.” It’s the only restaurant in Sonoma County with three stars. The farm-to-table restaurant also has a green star. Additionally, SingleThread’s five-room inn has three Michelin keys representing an extraordinary stay. 131 North St., Healdsburg, 707-723-4646, singlethreadfarms.com

SingleThread restaurant in Healdsburg — An elegantly presented dish at the three-Michelin star SingleThread in Healdsburg. (John Troxell/Sonoma County Tourism)

A dish at Cyrus restaurant in Geyserville. (J Evan)

One Star

Cyrus, Geyserville

Chef and author Douglas Keane reopened his Cyrus restaurant (formerly of Healdsburg) in Geyserville in 2022, and it promptly earned a Michelin star. 275 Highway 128, Geyserville, 707-723-5999, cyrusrestaurant.com

Napa County

Three Stars

The French Laundry, Yountville

Despite recent lukewarm reviews, The French Laundry’s three Michelin stars, as well as its green star, were safe from the chopping block. It remains the only restaurant in Napa County with three stars. 6640 Washington St., Yountville, 707-944-2380, thomaskeller.com/tfl

French Laundry restaurant in Yountville — “Salade rouge” with beets, olive oil panna cotta and pomegranate seeds served at the French Laundry in Yountville, Nov. 20, 2024. (Aya Brackett/The New York Times)

The Restaurant at Auberge de Soleil in Napa Valley — At The Restaurant at Auberge de Soleil in Rutherford. (The Ingalls)

One Star

Auberge du Soleil, Rutherford

Credited as Napa Valley’s first fine dining establishment, Auberge du Soleil has maintained its one Michelin star for 18 consecutive years, since the coveted guide was established in 2007. The restaurant’s hotel of the same name, part of the Auberge Resorts Collection, holds three Michelin keys. 180 Rutherford Hill Road, Rutherford, 800-348-5406, aubergeresorts.com/aubergedusoleil

Auro, Calistoga

Auro earned its one Michelin star in 2023, just eight months after opening. It’s located in Napa Valley’s Four Seasons Resort, which also has one Michelin key. 400 Silverado Trail N., Calistoga, 707-709-2160, auronapavalley.com

Kenzo, Napa

Kenzo and Natsuko Tsujimoto’s serene Japanese restaurant in Napa Valley holds one star for its traditional, high-quality cuisine. 1339 Pearl St., Napa, 707-294-2049, kenzonapa.com

Press, St. Helena

Napa Valley’s Press restaurant earned its Michelin star in 2022 for its contemporary, Californian dishes. 587 St. Helena Highway, St. Helena, 707-967-0550, pressnapavalley.com

American wagyu with smoked carrot, wasabi glaze and carrot-kosho vinaigrette at PRESS Restaurant Napa Valley in St. Helena. (John Troxell/Courtesy Suited Hospitality)

Greater Bay Area

Three Stars

Atelier Crenn, three stars. 3127 Fillmore St., San Francisco, 415-440-0460, ateliercrenn.com

Benu, three stars. 22 Hawthorne St., San Francisco, 415-685-4860, benusf.com

Quince, three stars. 470 Pacific Ave., San Francisco, 415-775-8500, quincerestaurant.com

Two Stars

Acquerello, two stars. 1722 Sacramento St., San Francisco, 415-567-5432, acquerellosf.com

Birdsong, two stars. 1085 Mission St., San Francisco, 415-369-9161, birdsongsf.com

Californios, two stars. 355 11th St., San Francisco, 415-757-0994, californiossf.com

Commis, two stars. 3859 Piedmont Ave., Oakland, 510-653-3902, commisrestaurant.com

Kiln, two new stars. 149 Fell St., San Francisco, 415-982-9722, kilnsf.com

Lazy Bear, two stars. 3416 19th St., San Francisco, 415-874-9921, lazybearsf.com

Saison, two stars. 178 Townsend St., San Francisco, 415-828-7990, saisonsf.com

Sons & Daughters, two stars. 708 Bush St., San Francisco, 415-391-8311, sonsanddaughterssf.com

One Star

7 Adams, one star. 1963 Sutter St., San Francisco, 415-655-9154, 7adamsrestaurant.com

Angler SF, one star. 132 The Embarcadero, San Francisco, 415-872-9442, anglerrestaurants.com

Hilda and Jesse, one star. 701 Union St., San Francisco, 415-872-7023, hildaandjessesf.com

Kin Khao, one star. 55 Cyril Magnin St., San Francisco, 415-362-7456, kinkhao.com

Le Comptoir at Bar Crenn, one star. 3131 Fillmore St., San Francisco, 415-440-0460, barcrenn.com

Mister Jiu’s, one star. 28 Waverly Place, San Francisco, 415-857-9688, misterjius.com

Nari, one star. 1625 Post St., San Francisco, 415-868-6274, narisf.com

Niku Steakhouse, one star. 61 Division St., San Francisco, 415-829-7817, nikusteakhouse.com

Nisei, one star. 2316 Polk St., San Francisco, 415-827-6898, restaurantnisei.com

O’ by Claude Le Tohic, one star. 165 O’Farrell St., San Francisco, 415-814-8888, one65sf.com

Protégé, one star. 250 California Ave., Palo Alto, 707-312-0931, protegepaloalto.com

San Ho Won, one star. 2170 Bryant St., San Francisco, 415-868-4479, sanhowon.com

Sorrel, one star. 3228 Sacramento St., San Francisco, 415-525-3765, sorrelrestaurant.com

Ssal, one star. 2226 Polk St., San Francisco, 415-814-2704, ssalsf.com

State Bird Provisions, one star. 1529 Fillmore St., San Francisco, 415-795-1272, statebirdsf.com

Sun Moon Studio, one new star. 1940 Union St., Suite 21, Oakland. sunmoonstudio.com

The Progress, one star. 1525 Fillmore St., San Francisco, 415-673-1294, theprogress-sf.com

The Shota, one star. 115 Sansome St., San Francisco, 628-224-2074, theshotasf.com *Temporarily closed

25 Best Restaurants in Sonoma County in 2025

June 2025

By Heather Irwin

Lumache al Pesto with spring pea pesto, morel mushrooms and aged parmesan from Stella Wednesday, March 26, 2025, in Kenwood. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

In a time of change and uncertainty, extolling the virtues of a perfect ball of burrata or a 10-course tasting menu may seem out of touch. But when you look at the bigger picture, it’s food that brings us all to the table. This year, we’ve chosen 25 Sonoma County restaurants that each bring a strong reason to be in our community and in our lives, whether a stunning plate of pasta, a sublime slice of lemon cream pie, or a singular point of view on the restaurant industry, it’s all important. Food is connection, food is love — and Sonoma County’s singular connection to land and sea creates a common ground we can all appreciate.

Enclos

Because it’s time for a Michelin star in the town of Sonoma.

Not every restaurant has that singular ambition of worldwide recognition woven into its DNA. But Enclos is a rising star destination that’s about to change all that. In March, Michelin inspectors dangled a tasty carrot by including it as one of 15 “recommended” California restaurants that could be on the shortlist for 2025 stars. It happened just three months after the opening, a rare feat for a fledgling.

Chef Brian Limoges, who was on the opening teams of San Francisco’s Quince and Birdsong, has the experience, drive and financial backing to reach for those stars. In January, he hit the ground running with an 11-course tasting menu that pays homage to the flora and fauna of Sonoma Valley, his new home. Instagram collectively swooned at tiny bites of venison and tree lichen perched on a found deer antler and Lilliputian ice cream sandwiches atop a honeycomb frame. Dining at this level is as much about over-the-top artful presentation as it is about pristine sourcing and complicated technique.

With a $325 price tag and just 30 seats spread over two elegantly appointed rooms, this is a bespoke luxury experience for a niche audience. But Limoges is raising the fine dining bar to a new level in Sonoma County, giving us a renewed pride of place and another chance at stardom. 139 E Napa St., Sonoma. 707-387-1724, enclos-sonoma.com

Acorn Cafe

Because French toast should always come piled this high.

Acorn Cafe fattest pancakes in Sonoma County — Lemon Ricotta Hotcake with house lemon curd, oat crumble and lemon lavender ice cream from Acorn Cafe in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

There’s something gleeful about a breakfast standard gussied up with brioche and tall whipped mascarpone, cacao nibs, and a hearty scoop of coffee ice cream. No doubt this is an adult version of French toast, but it’s one that speaks to the kid in all of us.

Acorn is the breakfast and brunch spot that Healdsburg needs, with sunny lemon ricotta pancakes with lemon curd, whipped ricotta, and lavender ice cream and a riff on Dr. Seuss’s green eggs and ham, made with herby yogurt, poached eggs, and grilled ham seasoned with dukkah spices.

Everything about the place radiates joy, with orange pops of color throughout the interior, a bright and open floor plan that floods the space with light, and owner Beryl Adler’s obvious enthusiasm for adding a little wonder to your brunch. 124 Matheson St., Healdsburg. 707-955-7001, acornhealdsburg.com

Diavola Pizzeria & Salumeria

Because deep roots matter.

Diavola Pizzeria in Geyserville, Sonoma County — Sous chef Mason Meier mans the wood burning pizza oven at Diavola Pizzeria & Salumeria in Geyserville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

When Chefs Franco Dunn and Thom as Oden opened Santi restaurant in 2000, Geyserville was a tiny community. Their Italian restaurant honored what Press Democrat food writer Diane Peterson described as cucina povera, the soulful and frugal genius of Italian peasants with dishes like trippa alla Fiorentina and spaghettini Calabrese. Dunn and Oden’s passion ignited a generation of Sonoma County chefs eager to learn Old World ways of making pasta, salumi and bread from scratch.

Among the young recruits were three important chefs who later opened their own restaurants — Ari Rosen of Scopa and Campo Fina, Liza Hinman of Spinster Sisters, and Dino Bugica, who founded Diavola in Geyserville in 2008.

There’s a clear line that carries through from Dunn and Oden’s ideals to Bugica’s Geyserville restaurant today. Ingredients are local, the pizzas and pasta pay homage to Italian home cooking, and the delicious charcuterie is made in-house. The brick oven inside the restaurant glows — and trippa alla Fiorentina is still on the menu. 21021 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville. 707-814-0111, diavolapizzeria.com

The Goose & Fern

Because mate is just another word for friend.

If a British pub could be transported lock, stock and barrel to Santa Rosa, this would be it. Darts, pints and football — the kind with a soccer ball — are on tap, along with stellar pub food, including top-notch fish and chips, Guinness pie, and the world’s best sticky toffee pudding.

Clyde Hartwell, who speaks with a brogue as thick as his salt-and-pepper beard, runs the come-as-you-are establishment with his wife, Brittany, a trained pastry chef. He’s the guy behind the bar who’ll shout for you to grab yourself a table and refers to just about everyone as “mate,” because in his pub, you are. 116 Fifth St., Santa Rosa. 707-843-4235, thegooseandfern.com

Buck’s Place

Because these walls hold 119 years of stories.

A couple miles off Sonoma’s downtown Plaza, Buck’s Place has served as watering hole, polka hall, music venue and family-style restaurant since 1906. These days, its roadhouse charm shines brighter than ever thanks to owners Erika and Chad Harris, founders of Sonoma Valley’s popular Lou’s Luncheonette and Jack’s Filling Station, spots that, like Buck’s, feel heavy with the trappings of another era.

At Buck’s Place, the couple take a turn towards Italy, offering up red-tablecloth classics like chicken Parmesan, hoagies with all the gabagool, and crunchy-gooey mozzarella sticks. Pizza is the main event — Chicago deep-dish sometimes, or grandma-style Sicilian, crunch-edged Detroit, and the basic New York 16-inch round.

While the patio is dog- and family-friendly, we also like to head for the bar, a grown-up spot where you can grab a beer or one of their excellent daiquiris and chat with the locals. 401 Grove St., Sonoma. 707-231-1245, bucks-place.com

Marla Bakery & Cafe

Because summer suppers make us happy.

Marla Bakery in Santa Rosa, Sonoma County — The Crebble: croissant dough rolled in maple sugar and sea salt from Marla SR Bakery and Cafe in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Marla is, of course, a bakery at heart, a year-round sanctuary of carbohydrates and sugar. Piles of impossibly large croissants, housemade bagels and breads, dark chocolate brownies, and slices of French apple pie peek from their glass case, along with the cult-favorite, croissant-muffin chimera, called the Crebble.

But Marla has a summer secret. From June to October, owners Amy Brown and Joe Wolf host a series of monthly dinners with similarly sustainability-minded local farmers, cheesemakers and winemakers. Tickets are announced by email and social media, so you need to be a follower to grab a seat.

Once you’ve experienced Amy Brown’s talents outside the pastry realm, it’s easy to see why the intimate dinners frequently sell out. Yes, she knows her way around a boule, but the former Nopa chef also knows how to tease the of-the-moment flavors from heirloom tomatoes, fresh goat cheese and sweet corn. This summer, the team is planning monthly pair-ups with Mt. Eitan Cheese, Lani Chan and Nathan Bender of Occidental’s Big Spoon Sauce Co., and a whole hog roast with Eric Sussman of Eye Cyder and County Line Vineyards. 208 Davis St., Santa Rosa. 707-852-4091, marlabakery.com

Quiote

Because blue tortillas just taste better.

Short Rib Barbacoa Tacos from Quiote in downtown Petaluma, Friday, Sept. 8, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Short Rib Barbacoa Tacos from Quiote in downtown Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Maybe it’s all in our mind, but the heirloom blue corn masa that this Petaluma restaurant uses for its tortillas just tastes, well, corn-ier. Or maybe it’s just because they use the buzzy Masienda masa that chefs line up for, sourced from small, traditional farmers across Mexico. (Food writers tend to get excited about that kind of thing.)

After hitting the comal, the tortillas turn nearly black, framing the brilliant colors of pink pickled onions, green avocado and citrusy cochinita pibil. This isn’t your usual taqueria fare, but family history following a line from Jalisco, Mexico to Sonoma County. The chile-marinated barbacoa (short rib), al pastor with ayocate beans, and fish tacos always make our best-of lists. Don’t miss the enchiladas smothered with mole and stuffed with chicken and braised Rancho Gordo pinto beans in broth. 121 Kentucky St., Petaluma. 707-774-6130, quiotemx.com

Bazaar Sonoma

Because compromise isn’t a word in their vocabulary.

Sean Quan and Jenny Phan of Bazaar Sonoma take a rigorous approach to classic regional Chinese dishes and refuse to Americanize their food to appeal to a broader audience. There’s no General Tso chicken, sweet and sour pork, or fortune cookies — instead, the seasonal menu leans into comforting, family-style dishes like whole sizzling fish, Hainan chicken, clay pot rice, and Hong Kong-style noodle soup.

Bazaar Sonoma is like going to a friend’s house, if that friend cooked like a Chinese mother who had also happened to work at a three-Michelin-starred restaurant (which Quan did). But the young couple are also hoping you’ll find a sense of community in their shared dishes and linger over a cup of tea.

BaSo is a natural extension of the couple’s outsider pop-ups — Second Staff’s spicy fried chicken, the high-low FNCY + PNTS, and the late night Matriarch that targeted off-duty hospitality workers and curious foodies. Quan and Phan are certainly ones to watch as they continue to evolve, one dumpling at a time — and on their own terms. 6566 Front St., Forestville. 707-614-8056, bazaar-sonoma.com

Augie’s French

Because we could live on warm baguettes.

“Are the baguettes still warm?” is a silly question to ask at Augie’s because, of course, they are still warm. These long batons of crackly crust and airy crumb are a signature of Mark and Terri Stark’s downtown Santa Rosa ode to French bistro culture, along with boeuf bourguignon and escargots floating in Pernod and garlic butter — two things that happen to go nicely with baguettes.

The French 75, a cocktail made with Cognac, gin and sparkling wine, also pairs nicely with baguettes, especially while relaxing on the streetside patio. Any further questions? 535 Fourth St., Santa Rosa. 707-531-4400, augiesfrench.com

Psychic Pie

Because pizza comes in all shapes and sizes.

At Psychic Pie, it’s hip to be square. Or sometimes round. Either way, it’s definitely Roman. Cut by the square or by the slice, owners Nicholi Ludlow and Leith Leiser-Miller are enthusiastic proponents of pizza al taglio or “by the cut,” as it’s done in Rome. Portions are measured by one, two or three fingers, as big or small as you’d like, and topped with rotating seasonal ingredients such as mushroom and chèvre, roasted leek cream and veggies, or pork ‘nduja sauce with pepperoncini, roasted peppers and aged Estero Gold cheese.

Occasionally, this pint-size pizzeria surprises with 16-inch tonda pizzas, the thin and crispy circular cousin of the al taglio , and they’ve even been known to serve up a hoagie or two. Ludlow and Leiser are natural collaborators, floating all boats with their rising tide of popularity, introducing us to pizza-friendly local products like Big Spoon Sauce Company’s chili crisp, Mad Marvlus’ fizzy natural wines and chef Preeti Mistry’s limited edition Hawt Sauce. 980 Gravenstein Hwy. S., Sebastopol. 707-827-6032, psychicpie.com

Cyrus

Because Douglas Keane has a lot to say.

Beneath the caviar carts, rare wine collections and shaved truffles, fine dining restaurants are in trouble. Inequity is widespread, with cooks often earning less than half of what a server makes. Health insurance is a rare benefit, vacations often nonexistent, flexible schedules unworkable and burnout rampant.

Chef Douglas Keane has a solution, and he’s just written a book about it. “Culinary Leverage: A Journey Through the Heat” recounts his years-long journey from clueless line cook to executive chef of a Michelin-starred restaurant. It’s got plenty of dirty secrets, juicy tidbits, and names named, but most importantly, it gets to the heart of how the restaurant industry can fix itself. The answer: Less staff, more training, and higher salaries.

It took a 10-year hiatus, a pandemic, a divorce, and some serious soul-searching to get there, but Keane’s “everyone does everything” mindset at Cyrus is living proof that the idea works.

His luxurious multi-course menu has guests sipping Champagne and wandering through the restaurant’s manicured vineyard — but his egalitarian ethos strikes a chord for restaurant workers struggling to pay rent and the restaurateurs struggling to stay afloat. 275 Highway 128, Geyserville. 707-723-5999, cyrusrestaurant.com

A&M BBQ

Because Texas brisket is what’s up.

A&M BBQ best barbecue in Sonoma County — Texas Toast, cornbread muffins, pork ribs, links, brisket and tri-tip, barbecue chicken, baked beans, coleslaw and collard greens at A&M BBQ in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Fellow Californians keep trying to convince me that tri-tip makes for great barbecue. It does not. The lean cut can make for a lovely fajita, but it is fundamentally unsuited for low and slow cooking — the very definition of barbecue.

Brisket, of course, is the king of ’que, and veteran pitmaster Kris Austin knows his way around this well-marbled piece of meat. A well-cooked brisket is the most primal of foods, smoky and charred, with soft bits of melted fat and yielding meat. With slaw and beans and thick slices of bread to sop up the juices, it’s a meal worth an amen any day.

Mississippi-born Austin has barbecue in his soul. He learned the craft from his mother, aunts and uncles, finally taking the tongs after years of apprenticeship. And like so many things in life, barbecue is a skill that’s never truly mastered. You just keep working at it. 495 S. Main St., Sebastopol. 707-8881315, ambbqllc.com

The Beet

Because Friday nights are for turning up the beat.

Beet Restaurant in Cloverdale, Sonoma County — Up Beet Salad with pepitas and goat cheese from the Beet Restaurant and Wine Shop in Cloverdale. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

The Beet Restaurant and Wine Shop owners Andrew Radabaugh and Alessandra Ziviani in Cloverdale. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Cloverdale is usually a pretty sleepy town after dark, but on Friday nights from 9 p.m. to midnight, everyone’s dancing to the beat (beet?). Though this spot remains a mild-mannered restaurant and wine lounge by day, the owners realized there was a serious lack of hip-swaying and busting sweet moves in the north Sonoma County ’burg. As night falls, the weekly jump and jive comes to life. Just remember your dancing shoes. 116 E. First St., Cloverdale. 707669-5080, cloverdalebeet.com

Lightwave Coffee & Kitchen

Because where else does a skate park come with such delicious treats?

The Russian River town of Monte Rio is known for three things: its proximity to the secretive gatherings at Bohemian Grove, the Pink Elephant Bar, and Lightwave Coffee & Kitchen. Only one of those places right now is open to the public — and it has cake.

Follow the signs for the Monte Rio skatepark to Lightwave, a curious indoor-outdoor cafe bedazzled by a garage-sale decor, rooted in vibey California skateboard culture, and entirely west county wonderful. A short distance from the river, you’ll join both locals and in-the-know beachgoers at this secret garden of delights. The scraping sound of skateboards (and the occasional wipeout) are the soundtrack to your meal, along with spicy Monte Rio gossip and the occasional whimper of a dog begging its owner for a snack.

The menu ranges from simple bagels and smoothies to North African shakshuka with red peppers and eggs, Middle Eastern flatbread with eggplant and tahini, and fat slices of lox and beets on challah bread on the weekends.

But before all of that, order dessert. Co-owner Gal Ginzberg’s Instagram is a billion-calorie ode to adventurous cheesecakes and pies flavored with halva, lemon cream, pistachio, and strawberry. They can sell out quickly, so be sure to get there early. 9725 Main St., Monte Rio. 707-865-5169, lightwavecafe.square.site

The Redwood

Because you don’t have to love pet-nat to join the party.

Winter Citrus Salad with Blood orange, cara cara, grapefruit, tangelo labneh, vadouvan, shallot, capers and mint from The Redwood chef/owner Geneva Melby Thursday, February 27, 2025, in Sebastopol. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Winter Citrus Salad with Blood orange, cara cara, grapefruit, tangelo labneh, vadouvan, shallot, capers and mint from The Redwood chef/owner Geneva Melby in Sebastopol. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

The vibe at The Redwood, a wine bar, bottle shop, and cafe from chef/wine geeks Geneva Melby and Ryan Miller is decidedly New School, with a staff that’s obsessively well versed in anything skin-contacted, unfiltered or wild-yeasted.

You’ll find eager advocates of low-intervention wines on both sides of the bar here. But even if you’re not entirely convinced, it’s worth spending time with the wine list for two reasons: One, this is the next generation of wine, a sector of the industry that continues to be on the upswing. And two, tasting notes like “spring air” and “garrigue” (the forest floor of scrubland) are wonderfully weird and entertaining.

Yes, there is a whole section of the menu devoted to tinned fish, because every cool wine bar has tinned fish for some reason. But move past the sardines to Melby’s more intriguing bites, including Liberty Duck mousse with grilled bread, yellowtail crudo with pickled rose petals, and the trip-worthy Route 1 pita-and-dip array with homemade hummus, smoky baba ghanoush and labneh with dates.

Melby has a knack for Mediterranean and North African cuisine, with savory braised lamb shank with couscous, sole tagine, or roasted squash with Calabrian chile on the dinner menu. On Sunday, don’t miss the outstanding Turkish-style breakfast with jammy eggs, feta, tahina, pickled vegetables and grilled bread. 234 S. Main St., Sebastopol. 707-861-9730, theredwoodwine.com

Casino Bar & Grill

Because Saint Evelyn’s spirit lives on.

The pool table and bar inside Casino Bar & Grill in Bodega. (Beth Schlanker)

Evelyn Casini was the heart and soul of the Casino. Even at 97, she was the ever- present, no-nonsense matriarch who could stare down a man twice her size and then grab a beer with him. When she passed away last year, Bodega locals mourned and wondered what would become of the 100-year-old bar, with its creaky wood floors, herd of stuffed deer heads and ancient jukebox — a place that has served as a gathering space and watering hole for generations.

Fortunately, Evelyn’s granddaughter-in-law, Brandi Mack, has recently taken over, ushering the Casino into a new era. Recent renovations to the bar have expanded the kitchen and fancied-up the cozy dining room, though there’s still plenty of character — and characters — to be found inside.

Mack is also carrying on Evelyn’s support of up-and-coming guest chefs, who take over the tiny kitchen at the end of the bar a few nights a week and spread their wings. This spring, chef Amelia Telc of Half Hitch, whose resume includes buzzy restaurants you’ve definitely heard of in New York and San Francisco, pops up for dinner Friday through Sunday, with globally inspired dishes like pot au feu and Cantonese fish with ginger. Her weekly lineup is driven by trips to farmers markets and what’s just come in at the dock, meaning you never quite know what you’ll get. And that’s the fun of it.

On Tuesday and Wednesday nights, Alyssum Revallo of Alyssum’s Kitchen makes her mark with comforting soups, salads, and flatbread along with smokey kalua pork and flourless chocolate cake. For updates on guest chef pop-ups, check Instagram @casinobarandgrill. 17000 Bodega Hwy., Bodega. 707-876-3185

Valette

Because Dustin isn’t the only Valette who is a Healdsburg icon.

Peppercorn crusted New York steak with wild mushroom fondue, and roasted bone marrow, served with potato and pepper hash, by chef Dustin Valette at Valette, in Healdsburg. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat) — Peppercorn-crusted New York steak with wild mushroom fondue, and roasted bone marrow, served with potato and pepper hash, by chef Dustin Valette at Valette, in Healdsburg. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)

When chef Dustin Valette opened his namesake plaza restaurant 10 years ago, his dad took up residency in the dining room — and we are all better for it. Bob Valette, now 84 years old, spent 45 years with Cal Fire flying specialized tanker planes on critical operations that ranged from the Mexican border up to Oregon. Only a handful of pilots can fly these converted military planes, known for dropping thousands of gallons of all-too-familiar reddish-pink fire retardant. Bob Valette’s dangerous job often meant leaving Dustin and his siblings in the care of family members at a moment’s notice, with little idea of when (or if) he’d return.

For most of that time, the family’s hometown was a quiet, dusty, Alexander Valley hamlet with only a handful of restaurants frequented by winemakers and ranchers. Now, Healdsburg has blossomed into an international dining destination with a growing constellation of stars and nods and regular celebrity sightings.

“Pops,” as the senior Valette is best known, spends his evenings at his son’s fine dining restaurants as unofficial greeter and full-time storyteller. He’s easily picked out amidst a sea of well-heeled visitors and Healdsburg regulars, in his jeans and black T-shirt with the Valette logo. With a glass of wine in hand, he constantly circulates, proudly letting everyone know he’s Dustin’s dad. 344 Center St., Healdsburg. 707-473-0946, valettehealdsburg.com

Valley

Because food connects neighbors.

In January, Valley chefs Emma Lipp and Stephanie Reagor hosted a trip to Oaxaca, Mexico for a deep dive into culinary history. They brought back not just recipes, but an ongoing connection to farmers and producers, resulting in a special Oaxacan menu at the restaurant. It’s just another way the Valley team, which also includes Lauren Feldman and Tanner Walle, has always made a point to marry food and culture in a way that feels intentional.

Over the past year, that’s included a series of dinners dedicated to the legacy of Chinese culture in Sonoma, a dinner celebrating the Jewish and Hungarian cuisine of Jeremy Salamon of Agi’s Counter in New York City, and an event to honor local critic Elaine Chukan Brown’s groundbreaking new book on the history of California wine, which recognizes the oft-ignored contributions of Indigenous peoples and Mexican immigrants within the industry. At Valley, you’ll always find good food — and food for thought. 487 First St. W., Sonoma. 707-934-8403, valleybarandbottle.com

Rocker Oysterfeller’s at the Wharf

Because of heaping mounds of fried seafood.

A cold beer with the Captain’s Platter served with Dungeness crab, fried calamari, beer battered shrimp and rock cod with a side of Dipper fries at Rocker Oysterfeller’s at Lucas Wharf in Bodega Bay. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)

Dining at the coast is a coin toss. Sometimes the fish is fresh and local, but other times, you’re probably eating frozen Alaskan cod and soggy French fries. Sonoma’s seafood fans demand better, which is why the Captain’s Platter at Brandon Guenther and Shona Campbell’s new restaurant is the catch we’ve been waiting for.

This is classic wharf-side dining with some Southern twists — not surprising, since the original Rocker Oysterfeller’s in Valley Ford highlights shrimp and grits and fried chicken. Here, however, the focus is on the “surf,” with blackened rockfish, clam chowder and Dungeness crab. The best bet, however, is the Captain’s Platter, the holy grail for those on a pilgrimage for fried seafood.

It’s a ridiculous amount of saltine-fried shrimp, beer-battered rock cod, salt and pepper calamari, a Dungeness crab cake and Kennebec fries, served with tartar, rémoulade and cocktail sauce for your dipping pleasure. I’ve looked for something as impressive as this on the coast for decades and never before found it. A tip of the captain’s hat to the kitchen. 595 Highway 1, Bodega Bay. 707-772-5670, rockeroysterfellers.com

Table Culture Provisions

Because everyone loves an underdog.

The close-knit team at Table Culture Provisions in Petaluma. (Kim Carroll / Sonoma Magazine) — The close-knit team at Table Culture Provisions in Petaluma. (Kim Carroll)

If you had to bet on the success of two guys who opened a fried chicken takeout restaurant during the pandemic, the odds would be long. But betting those same two guys would be in the running for a 2025 Michelin star? We’re talking multi-million-dollar lottery-level odds.

The long odds weren’t for lack of talent or tenacity — it’s just that chefs Stéphane Saint Louis and Steven Vargas didn’t have loads of wealthy backers or long culinary pedigrees before opening Table Culture Provisions. They had $1,000 and a vision of putting Petaluma back on the Michelin map.

In March, their passion and commitment led to TCP being tapped as a “recommended” restaurant (along with Enclos in the town of Sonoma) by Michelin inspectors. If the restaurant receives a star, Saint Louis will be the first black chef in California to be recognized. And that’s something all of Sonoma County is rooting for. 312 Petaluma Blvd. S., Petaluma. 707-559-5739, tcprovision.com

Underwood Bar & Bistro

Because a secret Thai menu at a French restaurant screams Sonoma County.

Pad Grapao Moo with spicy stir fried ground pork, long beans, Thai-style fried egg, prik nam pla and jasmine rice from Underwood Bar and Bistro Friday, March 21, 2025, in Graton. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Pad Grapao Moo with spicy stir fried ground pork, long beans, Thai-style fried egg, prik nam pla and jasmine rice from Underwood Bar and Bistro in Graton. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Underwood Bar in Graton, Sonoma County — Nam Khao Tod, Lao-Thai Crispy Rice Salad with a Pineapple Express cocktail from Underwood Bar and Bistro in Graton. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

French onion soup, steak frites, cauliflower gratin, and pad grapao moo. Though one of these things is not like the others, at Underwood it all makes sense.

Chef Mark Miller’s Graton menu has always been focused on comforting bistro classics like croque madame, frisée salads with lardons, and duck leg confit with green French lentils. His real passion, though, is Thai food. After years of traveling to southeast Asia, he fell in love with the vibrant sweet, sour, salty, spicy flavors of Thailand and learned how to make curries, sauces, and complex dishes from a Thai cooking mentor. “Working in a Thai kitchen — it was amazing. It just changed me,” says Miller.

During the pandemic, Underwood shifted to an all-Thai menu to simplify takeout. Cheeseburgers just don’t travel as well as pad Thai does. And locals loved it. While the Underwood menu has mostly returned to fan favorites, Miller keeps a handful of his favorite dishes — hat yai fried chicken, Thai lettuce cups and spicy pork pad grapao moo — in the mix. Pad Thai, however, remains the top seller. “I’m not sure why, but we serve hundreds of them each week,” he says.

This year, Miller hopes to do a Thai pop-up featuring some of his favorite recipes, happy to have an excuse to fire up the wok and cook what he loves. 9113 Graton Road, Graton. 707-823-7023, underwoodgraton.com

Shokakko

Because Spam fries are what chefs really want on their days off.

Sonoma County Asian street food truck — Crab and Cheese Croquettes from Shokakko, an Asian street food truck, at Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Tired of fine dining foams and tweezers, a merry band of three fine-dining chefs drew inspiration from late-night Japanese yatai food stalls selling ramen, fish cakes and skewers of grilled chicken. The trio have used their highbrow culinary skills to create skyscraper-sized fried chicken sandwiches, Spam fries, husky crab and cheese-filled croquettes, and cult-favorite cream-filled fruit sandwiches.

“It’s the things we liked eating on our days off. The stuff we couldn’t find in Sonoma County,” says chef Elijah Trujillo of the food trailer he co-founded with his partner Kayla Hendrix and friend Kazuya “Kaz” Makishima in August 2024. You’ll find their kitchen trailer at various breweries and events around Sonoma County, and the weekly lineup of their stops is posted on Instagram @eat_shokakko.

Stella

Because pasta is the new kale.

Stella in Kenwood, Sonoma County — Baked “Gelaska” with vanilla gelato, raspberry sorbet, sponge cake and cubes of torched marshmallow fluff from Stella in Kenwood. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

I can’t quite remember when pasta became a bad word, but it’s time to welcome back a good plate of tagliatelle and step away from the lacinato and spaghetti squash. Like forever.

Stella takes a deep dive into the bottomless well of time-tested pasta – Roman tonnarelli (spaghetti’s chunkier cousin), lumache (snail-shaped) and creste di gallo (rooster’s crest) made daily. The dried stuff in your pantry has nothing on these silky ribbons and toothy tubes meant to grip every last drop of sauce. You will be ruined for anything else after eating a plate of Stella’s housemade rigatoncini with Bolognese.

The Kenwood restaurant is a much-anticipated new venture from Glen Ellen Star founder Ari Weiswasser, his wife Erin, and managing partners Spencer and Ashley Waite. Glen Ellen Star’s chef de cuisine, Bryant Minuche, leads the kitchen.

The wood-fired oven plays a leading role at Stella, but it isn’t used for pizzas. Here the oven is for roasting vegetables, meats, and even cheese, all to bring a kiss of smoke. You’ll also want to peruse the seasonal mozzarella selections — aka the mozzarella bar — including burrata with brown butter walnuts and 12-year aged balsamic vinegar and buffalo mozzarella with anchovy and a farm-fresh egg yolk. Save room for the Baked Gelaska, a riff on Baked Alaska with sponge cake, raspberry sorbet, and vanilla gelato topped with a swirl of torched marshmallow fluff. You can always go back to kale tomorrow. 9049 Sonoma Hwy., Kenwood. 707-801-8043, stellakenwood.com

Wild Poppy

Because the patio is everything, and so is the queso.

Wild Poppy in Sebastopol — Wild Poppy offers a creekside, dog-friendly patio with music for brunch on the weekends on Bodega Highway west of Sebastopol. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Warm days call for lazy mornings with mimosas and “cosmic queso” nachos on the rambling outdoor patio of this perfectly imperfect restaurant. It’s always been a magical place, full of nooks, crannies, and hidden spaces for adults and kids to explore. The remote location a few miles outside Sebastopol has been both blessing and curse, but the historic roadhouse finally seems to have hit its stride with an inclusive plant-forward menu that doesn’t exclude meat eaters.

This is west county, after all, and cosmic nachos with plant-based cheese sauce and cashew crema are not only normal, they’re expected. What’s unexpected is that the creamy cashew queso dip with a swirl of pepita chimichurri and a side of slaw is delightful, even if plant-based cheese isn’t your jam.

Sit by the babbling stream hidden by steep slopes covered in ivy and shaded by eucalyptus trees. The world slows for a moment or two while you enjoy heirloom beans and greens with polenta, fish tacos, or a fat grilled mushroom sandwich on focaccia. 9890 Bodega Hwy., Sebastopol. 707-503-6332, thewildpoppycafe.com

Troubadour

Because it’s been shouted from the rooftops.

Melissa Yanc of Quail & Condor bakery and Troubadour in Healdsburg. (Emma K Creative)

Fine dining chefs-turned-entrepreneurs Melissa Yanc and Sean McGaughey are media darlings for a reason. Recognized by The New York Times, the James Beard Foundation and the Michelin Guide, the couple have created quite the following around their quirky food businesses around Healdsburg, which launched with beloved bakery Quail & Condor.

And when you have bread, you have sandwiches — the foundation of Troubadour, the second act in the ambitious couple’s culinary story. By day, Troubadour pairs freshly baked bread with a revolving lineup of fillings, including ham and brie with honey, fresh ricotta and roasted carrots, and creamy egg salad. Sounds simple, but these sandwiches are anything but.

Come nightfall, McGaughey and his small team shift gears for Le Diner, with seasonal French dishes like escargot, bouillabaisse, and duck breast stuffed with mushrooms and dates, either à la carte or as part of a seven-course tasting menu, and served on mix-and-match Limoges china. Troubadour’s kitchen lacks a proper hood or stove (it used to be a cupcake decorating room), so much of the cooking is done in simmer baths and low-temperature ovens, an even more incredulous feat. 381 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg. 707-756-3972, troubadourhbg.com

Food-Focused Appellation Healdsburg Hotel from Chef Charlie Palmer Coming to Life

June 2025

By Dana Rebmann

While the rooftop bar will have a dark, moody vibe it will also be a great spot to catch sunset. (Appellation)

Editor’s note: This article was originally published in April 2025. It has been updated with new information.

It’s hard to miss when driving north on Highway 101 just past downtown Healdsburg. After years of planning and design, the 32-acre, mixed-use development known as North Village is beginning to look less like a construction site and more like a community.

One of the most talked about pieces of the project — celebrity chef Charlie Palmer’s food and wine-focused Appellation Healdsburg hotel — is eyeing a late September opening.

The Appellation hotel brand is a collaboration between Palmer and Sonoma County resident Christopher Hunsberger, a hospitality veteran formerly with Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts. In addition to 108 rooms and suites, the hotel will feature a restaurant, rooftop bar, spa and fitness center.

“It’s really coming to life,” said Hunsberger.

Charlie Palmer's Appellation Healdsburg hotel — A rendering of the restaurant and lobby at the forthcoming Appellation Healdsburg. (Appellation)

Appellation’s food and wine focus will be apparent from the moment guests step into its take on a hotel lobby.

Instead of the classic front desk serving as the focal point, it’s the restaurant, kitchen and circular fireplace that will make the first impression on visitors (the reception desk is set off to the side of the entrance).

The lobby layout also includes dedicated space for the brand’s Crafted at Appellation classes. Workshops at locations throughout Sonoma County have covered everything from planting terrariums to blending freshly roasted coffee beans.

“It will be very different than any other hotel reception experience, at least that I know exists today,” said Palmer.

Rooms and suites are spread throughout a dozen or so buildings. In addition to a spa with eight treatment rooms, there are two pools (one for adults only) and a fitness center with training equipment and class offerings. No details have been released, but a local membership option is said to be in the works.

Many residents at neighboring Enso Village — described as a Zen-inspired senior living community — appear to have already settled in. Above approximately 12,000 square feet of retail space, the framework for 53 affordable apartments is coming together. There will also be 27 middle-income qualified townhomes as part of the North Village project.

Appellation Healdsburg is still taking shape, but the number of final stretch touches are growing with each day. Mature olive trees are being planted and tile is being set. It won’t be long before an assorted four dozen fruit trees and 24 raised culinary beds are integrated into the landscape.

It’s been more than two decades since Palmer opened Dry Creek Kitchen at Hotel Healdsburg. Every Thursday night, locals are invited to take advantage of the restaurant’s three-course Sonoma Neighbor Menu for $55.

Palmer said he looks forward to welcoming locals to Appellation Healdsburg as well.

“Yes, it’s a hotel and yes, there’s going to be people coming here hopefully from all over the place, but first and foremost, it’s about welcoming locals into another great piece of Healdsburg,” said Palmer. “I want that bar to be full of locals. I want the restaurant and spa to be full of locals.”

Rates at Appellation Healdsburg are expected to start at just above $500 a night, plus a daily resort fee of $45. 165 Foss Creek Circle, Healdsburg, appellationhotels.com

Rendering of Appellation Healdsburg bar — The forthcoming rooftop bar at Appellation Healdsburg. (Appellation)

Local hotels show off renovations, new menus and wellness options

Just in time for spring, several Sonoma County hotels are giving people more reasons to plan a trip or Wine Country staycation.

Vintners Resort just debuted a new resort pool flanked with daybeds, cabanas and fire pits. Day passes are available for locals looking to lounge poolside, but not stay at the property. The next phase of renovations at the Santa Rosa property includes refreshed rooms and a lobby facelift. 4350 Barnes Road, Santa Rosa, 707-575-7350, vintnersresort.com

The Restaurant at Farmhouse Inn is now serving breakfast and lunch. Dinner service now includes a la carte offerings in addition to the three-course, prix fixe Taste of Farmhouse menu. 7871 River Road, Forestville, 707-887-3300, farmhouseinn.com/restaurant

Calling all spa lovers! Thanks to a new partnership with UK-based celebrity skin designer Fatma Shaheen of Skin Design London and Montage Hotels & Resort, a pair of new facials just launched at the spa at Montage Healdsburg. The new treatments include the SDL Vitamin Skin Glow Facial ($495) and SDL Face Tight Facial ($975). 100 Montage Way, Healdsburg, 707-979-9000, montage.com/healdsburg

Picpoul Blanc Is a Rare White Variety That Meets the Moment

June 2025

By Sarah Doyle

Wine tasting with mezze plate from Little Saint at Marine Layer Wines in Healdsburg. (Gretchen Gause)

As California winemakers look for grape varieties more tolerant to drought and heat, plantings of a rare French grape native to the Languedoc region of southern France are likely to rise. Picpoul Blanc, with only 48 acres bearing fruit in the state, has great growing potential, according to Paso Robles winemaker Jason Haas.

His winery, Tablas Creek Vineyard, was the first in California to work with the variety, after importing cuttings from France in 1995. “You can let the grapes hang a long time, so they develop tropical characters like piña colada — and they’ll still have super-bright acid.”

For a grape few have heard of in the U.S., Picpoul Blanc has a surprising number of superfans — especially here in Sonoma County, where winemakers are embracing its vibrant, racy edge (“picpoul” means “sting the lip” in French). At Marine Layer Wines in Healdsburg, winemaker Rob Fischer was “immediately intrigued” when he learned the owners of Three Oaks Farm on Sonoma Mountain had grafted about an acre and a half of Syrah over to Picpoul Blanc in 2022.

Director of winemaking Rob Fischer racks Picpoul wine from a puncheon to a tank at Marine Layer Wines in Healdsburg on Wednesday, January 8, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat) — Director of winemaking Rob Fischer racks Picpoul wine from a puncheon to a tank at Marine Layer Wines in Healdsburg on Wednesday, Jan. 8, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

Marine Layers Picpoul Blanc wine — Director of winemaking Rob Fischer swirls a sample of Picpoul wine in a glass while racking from a puncheon to a tank at Marine Layer Wines in Healdsburg on Wednesday, Jan. 8, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

At Three Oaks Farm, the Picpoul is planted mid-slope, where cool temperatures can push ripening into October.

“You just have to be patient,” says Fischer. “It can express itself as a generic white grape, until it turns a corner late in the season when the acid drops and it develops these nice citrus flavors. That’s when I know we’re in action.”

In a region flooded with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Fisher commends Sonoma County winegrowers for planting less common varieties like Picpoul Blanc. “I live in Napa, but I love the fact you can grow so many different varieties in Sonoma County,” he says. “I’m really excited to see growers experimenting with these fringe varieties.”

Compared to Sonoma County, which has just 4 acres of Picpoul Blanc, the Lodi wine region of San Joaquin Valley has a whopping 12. That’s where winemaker Blair Guthrie of Guthrie Family Wines in Sonoma sources fruit. For his 2023 Faux Picpoul Blanc ($28), Guthrie picked relatively early to maintain the variety’s “electric acidity and lively pop.” As for the wine’s name, “Faux” — don’t be fooled. Guthrie’s wine is 100% Picpoul Blanc.

Natty Pets canned pét-nat sparkler from Two Shepherds Wine in Windsor. (Courtesy of Two Shepherds)

Winemaker William Allen has been producing a Picpoul Blanc at Two Shepherds Winery in Windsor since 2018, with fruit sourced from the little-known Windmill Vineyard in Yolo County’s Dunnigan Hills. “Our wine lives up to the name ‘lip stinger,’ but it also has texture and depth, which makes it great with oysters and crab,” he says.

In 2021, Allen went out on a limb and also made a sparkling canned wine called Natty Pets, a blend of Picpoul Blanc and Grenache Blanc. About 35% of the Picpoul was skin-fermented, which gave the wine a light orange hue.

“We launched it as a sparkling orange wine and everyone went ga-ga over it,” says Allen. “We doubled production of the wine last year, and we still sold out.”

Like others, Allen believes Picpoul Blanc is exceptionally well-suited to California’s Mediterranean climate.

“People need to stop planting Chardonnay in California and start planting Picpoul Blanc,” he says. “It loves the heat, it’s not prone to rot or mildew, it bears good yields and is easy to grow. It’s perfect for Picpoul.”

This story was originally published in The Press Democrat. Read the full story here.

These Sonoma County Restaurants Encourage Guests to Stay Awhile

June 2025

By Carey Sweet

Customers dine at Little Saint in Healdsburg, a temple to the union of plant-based food, wine and live music. (Kim Carroll)

An article in Food Republic, an online industry publication founded by chef Marcus Samuelsson, offered this advice: “It’s a general rule of thumb that diners should leave a restaurant within 15 minutes of getting the check, otherwise, it’s considered a form of overstaying your welcome.”

For decades, most restaurant owners have seen profit in turnover, seating as many guests as possible — packing their spaces to keep kitchens busy and servers earning tips. Too many people hanging out at tables for too long cuts into the bottom line in an industry where profits are measured in pennies.

In Sonoma County, however, other restaurant owners play the long game. Instead of rushing guests out the door, they’re building community, embracing a philosophy that advocates for the need for “third places.” The term, coined by urban sociologist Ray Oldenburg in his 1989 book, “The Great Good Place,” refers to places other than home and work where people go to gather and socialize with others.

Allowing guests to linger is likely driven by economic concerns, says California Restaurant Association President and CEO Jot Condie. He says that restaurants face more competition than ever as customers tighten their wallets. As the competitive landscape tightens, restaurant owners look for ways to stand out from the crowd.

Boygenius fans line up before a sold-out show at Little Saint in Healdsburg. (Emma K Creative)

“As customers are dialing back at table-service restaurants, building an experience is critical,” Condie says. “The restaurants are investing more into differentiating themselves, in hopes that people maybe stick around longer, but certainly come back again.”

Sonoma County diners can witness a range of responses to this trend, from displays of board games and books to borrow, to seating guests at long community tables, to trivia nights, live music and dance parties. At Altamont General Store in Occidental, co-owners Jenay and Andzia Hofftin offer a mix of experiences.

“Our motto is ‘eat, shop, gather,’” Jenay says. “That was our business model before the pandemic, and when we finally were able to reopen, the ‘gather’ became even more important, since we felt there was really no place to hang out in Occidental and meet a friend and chat over good food and fun.”

Andzia Hofftin, left, her wife Jenay Hofftin and their daughter Ever, 2, at The Altamont General Store in Occidental. (Beth Schlanker/Sonoma Magazine)

Altamont restaurant — Barista Alana Fraley interacts with a customer as she makes coffee at The Altamont General Store in Occidental on Thursday, May 13, 2021. (Beth Schlanker/Sonoma Magazine)

Altamont General Store guests can spin vintage vinyl on an antique turntable, browse culinary and art books while lounging on a sofa, take a craft workshop, or kick back with live music on Friday nights in summer in the Yard, a family-friendly outdoor lounge. Some Saturday nights, even bigger bands tour through.

As parents of young children, the Hofftins also focus on creating community for younger guests. The Yard has fun toys plus an oversized Connect Four to play and a boulder to climb on. “That allows parents to have a whole cappuccino or a whole glass of wine or at least five bites of food without having to worry,” says Andzia. “I’m from Hawaii, and we do long, extended family gatherings, so it feels really natural to extend that into our space.”

At Little Saint in Healdsburg, guests relax in comfy wicker chairs on the front patio, leisurely sipping pour-over coffees, and sharing little bits of tofu scramble tacos with their canine companions. The adjacent two-story barn-style building is designed with lots of nooks and corner retreats for guests to hang out.

Little Saint restaurant — The upstairs area at Little Saint in Healdsburg, Sept. 8, 2023. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Little Saint restaurant in Healdsburg — Customers dine at Little Saint in Healdsburg, a temple to the union of plant-based food, wine and live music. (Kim Carroll)

“We like to call ourselves Healdsburg’s living room,” says director of events and marketing Sara Beckstead. “It’s just a natural setting to sit and connect.”

On Thursday nights, free live music shows take over the restaurant’s upper level, and there are also ticketed events, like a recent screening of a Wendell Berry documentary, along with a panel discussion with the film’s producers about the life of the legendary author and farmer.

“We’re trying to do as much programming as we can that’s relevant to our farming and lifestyle mission and what Sonoma County stands for,” says Little Saint executive director Jenny Hess. “Diverse programming also brings in new audiences… Maybe they come because their favorite band is playing, but once they’re here, they experience our food, enjoy a cocktail, and suddenly, we have a new regular in our world.”

That’s an understandable strategy, says the CRA’s Jot Condie. “You want a line of customers out the door — that helps the environment and sense of community that you get with that dull roar of a conversation in the background and clinking glasses.”

Valley Swim Club restaurant — Dip your toes into the casual-chic scene at Valley Swim Club, a walk-in-only outdoor dining spot modeled after an East Coast clam shack. (Eileen Roche / For Sonoma Magazine)

New ideas are constantly being hatched. Successful restaurant owners observe their guests’ habits and cultivate new programming with new ways to connect. Valley Swim Club in Sonoma hosts popular movie nights, queer-friendly line-dancing and a holiday market. Twin Oaks Roadhouse in Penngrove has a raucous trivia night, as does the Goose & Fern in Santa Rosa. Brigitte Bistro in Petaluma invites guests to play for the room on their baby grand piano. And casual roadhouses like Brewster’s Beer Garden in Petaluma and HopMonk Tavern in Sonoma and Sebastopol, have built their reputations on live music along with great pub food.

Brewster's restaurant — Lynzie Brodhun, left, and her sister Lexi Brodhun drink beer and listen to live music at Brewster’s Beer Garden in Petaluma on Sunday, Sept. 9, 2018. (Beth Schlanker/ The Press Democrat)

The fried chicken sandwich at Twin Oaks Roadhouse on Old Redwood Highway in Penngrove. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)

“Of course, it’s an investment to offer all these things,” says Jenny Hess. “Sure, we would love for people to be eating and drinking the whole time they’re sitting around, but we can’t expect that, and we’re OK with it. This is a deliberate investment — an investment in community goodwill. The more positive experiences that people feel at Little Saint, the more likely they are to return.”

“We want it to be a great place for people to hang out with friends, and then they all want to come back again and again. They do come back, so it works well for us.”

Little Saint: 25 North St., Healdsburg. 707-433-8207, littlesainthealdsburg.com

Altamont General Store: 3703 Main St., Occidental. 707-874-6053, altamontgeneral.com