Page 26 – Sonoma Magazine

Where to Celebrate Black History Month in Sonoma County

January 2025

By Maci Martell

Black Panther memorabilia is on display for visitors to the True Black History Museum traveling exhibit at the Sonoma State University Student Center in Rohnert Park, Thursday, Feb. 8, 2024. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

Starting Saturday, Black History Month honors the culture and contributions of Black Americans while paying respect to their perseverance in the face of discrimination.

In Sonoma County, various nonprofits, museums, entertainment venues will host a number of events to celebrate the month. For more learning opportunities on the Black American experience from past to present, check out these books and movies recommended by local professors. To support local Black-owned businesses, check out our directory here.

Santa Rosa Junior College BHM Events

All of Santa Rosa Junior College’s Black History Month events are free and will take place on the Santa Rosa campus unless noted otherwise. 1501 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-527-4011, santarosa.edu

‘A History of Black Characters in Comic Books’ exhibit, Feb. 3 – March 14

The Santa Rosa Junior College Multicultural Museum will open its exhibit, “Stereotyped to the Margins: A History of Black Characters in Comic Books,” starting with a reception from 2-4 p.m., Feb. 3, at the campus museum. Curated by Dr. Eric Atkinson of SRJC’s English department, the exhibit includes comic book artwork throughout the 1900s to present, with the purpose of examining culture and ourselves beyond monolithic viewpoints. Light refreshments will be served at reception. Exhibit extends through March 14.

‘Racial Healing in the Trump Era,’ Feb. 4, 5

Dr. Calvin Monroe will lead two separate discussions 0n “Racial Healing in the Trump Era” — from 6-7:30 p.m., Feb. 4, at Sawubona BLOC in Pioneer Hall, and from 11:45 a.m. to 1 p.m., Feb. 5, in the Bertolini Student Center.

Tyler Shahan teaches attendees how to paint an Addams Family-inspired painting during a Cluster Funk Studios event at Barrel Brothers Brewing in Windsor, Saturday, Sept. 30, 2023. (Abraham Fuentes / For The Press Democrat)

‘Master Peace & Mocktails,’ Feb. 12

Brittany Lee and Tyler Ann Shahan, owners of Cluster Funk Studios in Santa Rosa, will host a guided paint therapy session with music and mocktails from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., Feb. 12, in the Bertolini Student Center.

‘Rooted in Resilience,’ Feb. 19

Clinical social worker Joseph Hancock will lead a discussion, “Rooted in Resilience: Celebrating Black History Through Healing and Wellness,” from 11:30 a.m. to 1 p.m., Feb. 19, in the Bertolini Student Center.

Soul Skate Night, Feb. 23

SRJC’s Black Student Union and Umoja community will present “Soul Skate Night” from 7:30-9 p.m., Feb. 23, at Cal Skate in Rohnert Park. For ages 17 and over. Free for the first 100 SRJC students and faculty who RSVP. Reserve a spot on Eventbrite.

6100 Commerce Blvd., Rohnert Park, 707-585-0494, calskate.com

Talks with Dr. AK Sterling, Feb. 25, 26

Public speaker and educator Dr. AK Sterling will lead two separate discussions during the final weekend of Black History Month. His first talk, “Why So Thirsty,” is from 6:30-8 p.m., Feb. 25, at the Sawubona BLOC in Pioneer Hall. The second talk, “Uncovering Capacity,” is from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., Feb. 26, in the Bertolini Student Center.

Sonoma State University BHM events

All of Sonoma State University’s Black History Month events will take place on the Rohnert Park campus. Each event is free to attend. 1801 E. Cotati Ave., Rohnert Park, 707-664-2880, sonoma.edu

Black History Month Dinner, Feb. 4

Sonoma State’s The HUB Cultural Center will kick off Black History Month with a celebratory dinner and opening ceremony from 5-6 p.m., Feb. 4, at The HUB. hub.sonoma.edu

A visitor to The True Black History Museum pauses to watch a video about George Washington Carver while visiting the traveling exhibit at the Sonoma State University Student Center in Rohnert Park, Thursday, Feb. 8, 2024. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

True Black History Museum, Feb. 5

Sonoma State’s Associated Students and The HUB will sponsor the True Black History Museum from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., Feb. 5, at Ballrooms B and C in the Student Center. The True Black History Museum is a traveling Black history exhibit with a collection of over 1,000 artifacts and documents dating from the 1700s to the 21st century.

Black Labor Reimagined, Feb. 12

Sonoma State professor Kim Hester Williams will give a lecture, “Black Labor Reimagined: The Practices of Resistance, Rest and Joy,” from noon to 1 p.m., Feb. 12, at Ballroom B in the Student Center. Williams will lecture on journalist Nikole Hannah-Jones’ The 1619 Project, which examines United States history with a focus on slavery and its continued impact on American life.

Black Joy Fest, Feb. 13

The HUB will host its third annual Black Joy Fest from noon to 3 p.m., Feb. 13, in the Seawolf Plaza. The celebration will include food, music, community resources and more.

BSU Presents: Love & Basketball Screening, Feb. 18

Sonoma State’s Black Student Union will host a screening of the 2000 film Love & Basketball starting at 6 p.m., Feb. 18, at The HUB.

Black History Month Cookout, Feb. 27

The HUB and Visionaries Inspiring Black Educated Scholars (VIBES) will host the college’s Black History Month Cookout from 6-8 p.m., Feb. 27, at the Seawolf Plaza.

Sonoma County Library BHM events

Local branches of the Sonoma County Library will host such events as lectures, workshops, film screenings and more. All events, virtual and in-person, are free to attend unless noted otherwise. sonomalibrary.org

Dream Together: MLK Tiny Art Workshop, Feb. 11

The Sebastopol Regional Library will host a Black History Month-themed art workshop from 3:30-4:30 p.m., Feb. 11, in its meeting room. For grades 4-6, children will create mini art pieces while they learn about Martin Luther King Jr. and his dream for a just and equal society. All materials will be provided. Registration encouraged, but not required. Register online.

Sebastopol Regional Library, 7140 Bodega Ave., Sebastopol, 707-823-7691

Black History Month Film: The Gospel According to Andrè, Feb. 16

The Sebastopol Regional Library will host a film screening of the 2017 documentary, “The Gospel According to Andrè,” from 2-3:30 p.m., Feb. 16, in the meeting room. The film explores the life and career of fashion journalist André Leon Talley, who grew up in the segregated South and went on to work at Vogue. The screening event will include tea and popcorn.

Author Talks: I Am Nobody’s Slave with Lee Hawkins, Feb. 18

In a virtual event, the Sonoma County Library will present a conversation with journalist and Pulitzer Prize finalist Lee Hawkins about his memoir “I Am Nobody’s Slave: How Uncovering My Family’s History Set Me Free.” Hawkins will talk about his book’s examination of his family’s legacy post-enslavement, including their resilience in the face of trauma and systemic racism. The discussion will be held from 11 a.m. to noon, Feb. 18, over Zoom. Register online.

An undated photo shows Rosa Parks riding on the Montgomery Area Transit System bus in Montgomery, Alabama. Parks refused to give up her seat on a Montgomery bus on Dec. 1, 1955, igniting the boycott that led to a federal court ruling against segregation in public transportation. (DAILY ADVERTISER / via AP) — An undated photo shows Rosa Parks riding on the Montgomery Area Transit System bus in Montgomery, Alabama. Parks was involved with the 1955 Montgomery Bus Boycott that led to a federal court ruling against segregation in public transportation. (DAILY ADVERTISER / via AP)

Black History Month Film: The Rebellious Life of Mrs. Rosa Parks, Feb. 23

The Sebastopol Regional Library will host a film screening of the 2022 documentary “The Rebellious Life of Mrs. Rosa Parks,” from 2-3:45 p.m., Feb. 23, in the meeting room. The film explores the civil rights activist’s decades of work — beyond her role in the Montgomery Bus Boycott and diving deeper into her radical politics, organizing and lifelong dedication. The screening event will include tea and popcorn.

Santa Rosa BHM events

Talk with civil rights activist Peggy Preacely, Feb. 1

The Saturday Afternoon Club will host a public talk with civil rights activist Peggy Trotter Dammond Preacely from 7:30-9 p.m., Feb. 1, at its historic Santa Rosa clubhouse. Cosponsored with The Nubian Café Collective, the evening will give the public an opportunity to hear firsthand from the longtime activist, speaker and former Freedom Rider. Tickets are $25 in advance and $30 at the door. Purchase tickets on Eventbrite.

430 10th St., Santa Rosa, 707-852-3029, thesaturdayafternoonclub.com, peggytrotterdammondpreacely.com

Transit Equity Day free rides and celebration, Feb. 4

Transit Equity Day, Feb. 4, honors civil rights leader Rosa Parks and promotes the importance of safe, public transportation that’s accessible to all. Sonoma County’s bus transit agencies are partnering with NAACP Santa Rosa-Sonoma to observe the day, during which all bus rides on Sonoma County Transit, Santa Rosa CityBus and Petaluma Transit will be fare free.

Additionally, Santa Rosa CityBus will host a commemorative meetup to celebrate the day at 10 a.m., Feb. 4, at Santa Rosa’s downtown Transit Mall on Second Street. Kirstyne Lange, president of the local branch of the NAACP, and Santa Rosa mayor Mark Stapp will be at the event to honor those who have “helped advance equity in public transit and to discuss the future of public transit,” according to the City of Santa Rosa’s press release.

sctransit.com, srcitybus.org

Cirque Kalabanté performance, Feb. 19

Storming into the Luther Burbank Center for the Arts at 7:30 p.m., Feb. 19, is Cirque Kalabanté, a high-energy show of West African drumming, dancing and tumbling — think Cirque du Soleil on a kicky world beat, with the noise turned up to 11.

The troupe, which trains in Montreal, recently sold out shows in New York and arrives fresh from a monthlong tour in the Netherlands and the UK. Set in a fictional Guinean fishing village, the show knits together humor and tradition with jaw-dropping acrobatics and a live soundtrack that will bring the house down.

Tickets range from $35–$49, depending on seat choice, plus fees. Purchase tickets online or in person at the LBC box office.

Luther Burbank Center for the Arts, 50 Mark West Springs Road, Santa Rosa, 707-546-3600, lutherburbankcenter.org, kalabanteproductions.com

‘The African American Journey Through Art’ Conversation, Feb. 23

The Museum of Sonoma County will host a panel discussion, “Reflected Truths, Refracted Realities: The African American Journey Through Art,” from 2-3 p.m., Feb. 23. Four Black artists will join the panel to examine truths and challenges of systemic racism intertwined with history and identity — and how their art mirrors those complexities of the Black American experience. Tickets are $10 per person and free for museum members. Register online.

425 Seventh St., Santa Rosa, 707-579-1500, museumsc.org

Petaluma BHM events

Dorian Bartley, of The Dorian Mode, plays vintage jazz and blues music at the 4th Annual Jazz Concert Celebrating Black History Month at the Petaluma Historical Library and Museum on Friday, February 5, 2016. More Petaluma events celebrating black history this month can be found at www.petalumamuseum.com. (ASHLEY COLLINGWOOD/FOR THE ARGUS-COURIER) — Dorian Bartley, of The doRiaN Mode, plays vintage jazz and blues music at the Petaluma Historical Library and Museum. This year’s annual Jazz Concert Celebrating Black History Month, featuring The doRiaN Mode, happens Feb. 7 at the Polly Klaas Community Theater in Petaluma. (Ashley Collingwood/for the Petaluma Argus-Courier)

The doRiaN Mode Jazz Concert, Feb. 7

Petaluma Blacks for Community Development will host its annual Jazz Concert Celebrating Black History Month starting at 7 p.m., Feb. 7, at the Polly Klaas Community Theater. The evening will feature Bay Area band The doRiaN Mode, winners in the 2024 North Bay Music Awards for Best Jazz Band. The doRiaN Mode, founded in 2013 by Dorian Bartley, specializes in vintage jazz, swing and early R&B. Tickets are $50 per person. Purchase tickets on Eventbrite.

Polly Klaas Community Theater, 417 Western Ave., Petaluma, 707-769-1334, pollyklaastheater.org, pbcd4us.com

‘Blacks in the Labor Force’ exhibit, Feb. 13 – March 30

The Petaluma Historical Library & Museum will host the exhibit, “Blacks in the Labor Force: Breaking Barriers, Building Legacies,” opening with a reception from 5-7 p.m., Feb. 13, and running through March 30. Petaluma Blacks for Community Development will present the exhibit, which honors Black labor leaders and highlights Black workers’ largely untold contributions to the economic development of the United States. Admission is free, donations appreciated.

20 Fourth St., Petaluma, 707-778-4398, petalumamuseum.com

West County BHM events

‘Get Up, Stand Up’ exhibit, through Feb. 15

Currently on exhibit through Feb. 15 at the Occidental Center for the Arts is ‘Get Up, Stand Up,’ part of the center’s annual Black History Month show. The exhibit features works by the center’s artists as well as from the Black history collection of Raynetta James, of Forestville, who lived through the Civil Rights Movement. There will be an artist reception with refreshments from 2-4 p.m., Feb. 2, at the art center. Winners from the center’s People’s Choice Awards will be announced at 3 p.m.

3850 Doris Murphy Court, Occidental, 707-874-9392, occidentalcenterforthearts.org

Santa Rosa rapper Damion Square who performs as D. Square, performs during Black 2 the Future at Hop Monk Tavern in Sebastopol, Saturday, Feb. 18, 2023. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat) 2023

Black 2 the Future, Feb. 21

Local event promotion group Decolonized Mindz Entertainment will present “Black 2 the Future: Black History Month Community Awards & Performances” from 7-10 p.m., Feb. 21, at the Sebastopol Center for the Arts. Hosted by Damion Square, an SRJC alum, Bay Area hip-hop artist and founder of Decolonized Mindz, the evening will include awards recognizing outstanding individuals in the community as well as performances by Bay Area artists showcasing Black history and culture. Performers include rapper, poet and educator Kayatta; hip-hop and soul artist Erica Ambrin; singer/songwriter Audio Angel; rapper PaqGod and producer DJ Konnex. General admission is $15 and a cocktail table for two to three people is $50, plus fees. Purchase tickets on Eventbrite.

282 S. High St., Sebastopol, 707-829-4797, sebarts.org

Did we miss any local Black History Month events? Email them to reporter Maci Martell at maci.martell@pressdemocrat.com.

Gundlach Bundschu Winery in Sonoma Keeps Building on Tradition

January 2025

By Tina Caputo

Best Sonoma wineries Gundlach Bundschu — The courtyard at Gundlach Bundschu Winery in Sonoma. (wool + soon / Gundlach Bundschu Winery)

Gundlach Bundschu is the second-oldest winery in Sonoma County — nearby Buena Vista beats it for the top spot by six months — and one of the oldest in California, yet the historic Sonoma winery is anything but stuffy.

The story

In the mid-1800s, Jacob Gundlach set off from his native Germany looking to strike it rich in the California Gold Rush. Fate had other plans for him, however. Gundlach was shipwrecked on his way across the Atlantic, and by the time he finally made it to San Francisco a year later, most of the surface gold was gone. Gundlach needed a profession, so he did what any ambitious, beer-loving German would do: He founded a brewery — and used the money he earned to start a winery.

The cave experience at Gundlach Bundschu in Sonoma includes a stroll through the 10,000-square-foot caverns, sampling wines along the way, plus tidbits of juicy family history and a visit to the vineyards to learn about the winery’s certified-regenerative farming methods. (wool + son / Gundlach Bundschu Winery)

In 1858, Gundlach bought a 400-acre parcel in Sonoma, christened it Rhinefarm and began planting vines. Another German immigrant, Charles Bundschu, joined him a decade later and together they built J. Gundlach & Co. into a thriving wine business. After Gundlach died in 1894, the winery’s name changed to Gundlach Bundschu. In the years to follow, the company outlasted both the 1906 earthquake — though it completely destroyed the winery’s San Francisco headquarters — and Prohibition, which prompted the family to turn its efforts to cultivating fruit trees and growing grapes for sacramental wines. Through it all, and for decades after Prohibition, the family always maintained at least 100 acres of wine grapes.

Gundlach Bundshu’s modern incarnation began in 1973, when fifth-generation winegrower Jim Bundschu relaunched the winery side of the business. Jim’s son Jeff now runs the show, overseeing 270 acres of organically and regeneratively farmed grapes at Rhinefarm, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Gewürztraminer and even Tempranillo.

The vibe

The Barrel Room at Gundlach Bundschu Winery in Sonoma. (Gundlach Bundschu Winery)

Rhinefarm is just a 10-minute drive from the Sonoma Plaza. Gun-Bun, as the winery is affectionately known, offers a few different sipping and sampling areas, from picnic tables on the patio to a traditional tasting room lined with old family photos and vintage posters. My new favorite spot is the Barrel Room, a groovy lounge outfitted with comfy leather sofas, tables and plush armchairs. Decor aside, the winery has long been known for its fun-loving, irreverent spirit — Jim Bundschu once staged a Western-style “holdup” of the Napa Wine Train, treating passengers to samples of his own wines — and that tradition continues today.

On the palate

Jacob Gundlach planted the first Gewürztraminer at Rhinefarm in 1858, and the grape has had a home on the property ever since. The 2023 Sonoma Valley Dry Gewürztraminer ($29) reminds me of how lovely this wine can be, with its orange blossom aroma and mouthwatering flavors of peaches and citrus.

At Gundlach Bundschu Winery in Sonoma. (Gundlach Bundschu Winery)

Cabernet Sauvignon is the winery’s signature red, and they do it well, but the 2021 Sonoma Coast Zinfandel ($56) stole my heart on a recent visit. This isn’t one of those big and jammy numbers; this tasting-room-only rendition has holiday spice aromas, impressive structure, and juicy cherry and berry flavors.

Tastings range from $25 for an O.G. bar tasting to $80 for the immersive Winter Cave & Vineyard Tour. The cave experience includes a stroll through the 10,000-square-foot caverns, sampling wines along the way, plus tidbits of juicy family history and a visit to the vineyards to learn about the winery’s certified-regenerative farming methods.

Beyond the bottle

On “third Thursdays” throughout the winter, Gun-Bun hosts Hi-Fi Happy Hour from 5-7 p.m. in the Barrel Room. Bundschu family members spin vinyl selections on the vintage turntable (Jeff Bundschu is a music fanatic, staging folk-indie performances at the winery throughout the year) while guests kick back and enjoy $10 glasses of wine. Feeling snacky? You can purchase pizza by the slice.

2000 Denmark St., Sonoma, 707-938-5277, gunbun.com

Tina Caputo is a wine, food and travel writer whose work has appeared in numerous publications, including SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, HuffPost and Sonoma magazine. Follow Tina on Twitter @winebroad, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.

Fine Dining Chefs From Table Culture Provisions Taking Over Easy Rider Space in Petaluma

January 2025

By Heather Irwin

Chef Stéphane Saint Louis puts finishing touches on a dinner dish at Table Culture Provisions in Petaluma. (Crissy Pascual/Petaluma Argus-Courier)

The owners of Table Culture Provisions (TCP) will open a new French-inspired restaurant, Bijou, at the former Easy Rider in downtown Petaluma after plans to take over the former Quinua Cocina Peruana (500 Petaluma Blvd. S.) stalled.

“It’s our little jewel,” said Table Culture Provisions executive chef and co-owner Stéphane Saint Louis of the contemporary California-French restaurant slated to open in May. Saint Louis will head the kitchen while business partners Marta Saint Louis and chef de cuisine Steven Vargas remain at Table Culture Provisions.

Easy Rider, a 60-seat restaurant in the heart of Petaluma’s restaurant and entertainment district, closed Dec. 31 amid speculation that a new owner was taking over the space. At the time, Easy Rider co-owner Jared Rogers said he was legally bound not to disclose details but hinted that a Sonoma County restaurateur might take over the location.

The owners of Table Culture Provisions (TCP) will open a new French-inspired restaurant, Bijou, in Petaluma — Chefs/owners Steven Vargas, left, and Stéphane Saint Louis at Table Culture Provisions in Petaluma. The duo will open a new French-inspired restaurant, Bijou, at the former Easy Rider. (Kim Carroll)

While Table Culture Provision’s tiny 10-table restaurant at 312 Petaluma Blvd. S. will continue its focus on multicourse fine dining, Bijou will offer a more casual experience Saint Louis likens to TCP’s social hour menu.

Offered from 4-6 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday, the paired down à la carte social hour menu includes larger entrées like a Della Fattoria rosemary boule stuffed with Red Hawk cheese from Cowgirl Creamery, Flannery Steak & Frites with a black peppercorn sauce or daily fresh made pasta, most under $40. The seven-course tasting menu at TCP is $135 per person.

“Bijou is Social Hour on steroids,” said Saint Louis.

Though the menu is still in development, Saint Louis offered up Beef Wellington, seasonal stuffed Caramelle pasta or colossal Prawns à la Provençale and desserts from TCP executive pastry chef Sylvain Parsy, including opera cake and rum baba, as potential dishes.

“It’s French technique creating a Sonoma County farm-to-table, seasonal dining,” said Saint Louis. The restaurant will also offer brunch and coffee and pastries on weekends, he said.

While Sonoma County has seen a renaissance of French cuisine, with the openings of nearby Brigitte Bistro, Augie’s in Santa Rosa and Maison Porcella in Windsor, Saint Louis is clear that Bijou isn’t a bistro but “Bistronomy” — serving approachable dishes with high-end cooking techniques.

Saint Louis said the 60-seat Bijou will also have cocktail and wine programs and some late-night hours on the weekend.

Stay tuned for more details.

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

Where to Get the Best Croissants in Sonoma County

January 2025

By Heather Irwin

Croissants from Quail & Condor in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Quail & Condor)

Croissants are meant to be noisy, messy things that crunch and shatter and leave buttery crumbs everywhere. Anything less is simply a roll.

Sarmentine

French baker Alexandra Zandvliet has spent years perfecting her croissant game. European-style butter makes her flaky croissants — especially the chocolate filled ones — extra yummy. Sarmentine also sells day-old pastries, which warm up beautifully in a toaster oven. 52 Mission Circle, Suite 112, Santa Rosa; 6760 McKinley St., Sebastopol; 840 Petaluma Blvd North, Petaluma, 707-623-9595, sarmentine.com

Pascaline

Chefs Didier Pascal Ageorges and Lynn Chia serve up truly French patisseries (plus lunch and dinner) at their Santa Rosa cafe. 1021 Hahman Drive in Santa Rosa, 707-823-3122, pascalinebistro.com

Marla Bakery

After relocating to Sonoma County from San Francisco, this husband-and-wife team have created a solid following for their breads, but the Crebble, a croissant-like muffin covered in maple sugar and sea salt, is a favorite. Marla opened a location in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square in 2023. 208 Davis St., Santa Rosa, 707-852-4091, marlabakery.com

Village Bakery

This Sonoma County staple relocated to Sebastopol Road in 2019, where it serves up as-good-as-ever croissants like ham and cheese, pesto asiago and chocolate. Grab an eclair and cardamom roll while you’re there. 3851 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa, 707-829-8101, villagebakerywinecountry.com

Red Bird Bakery

One-stop-shop for all things sweet (and a few savories!). Husband-and-wife team Isaac and Linda Cermak are talented bakers who have two bakery locations in addition to their farm market offerings. 556 E. Cotati Ave., Cotati, 707-521-9838; 463 Sebastopol Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-544-3663, redbirdbakery.com

Varieties of croissants available at Quail & Condor bakery Monday, Jan. 6, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Quail and Condor

Crisp, flaky croissants that are second-to-none. Seasonal flavors include chocolate pumpkin, along with ongoing classics like almond, chocolate and plain. 149 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-473-8254, quailandcondor.com

Costeaux French Bakery

Costeaux’s daily fresh-baked breads and pastries include dazzling almond croissants generously topped with slivered almonds and dusted with powered sugar. Having a rough morning? Go for the dreamy chocolate croissants. 417 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-1913, costeaux.com

Baker and Cook

The buttery goodness of this tiny cafe’s croissants makes us squeal with delight. Their beans and greens breakfast also is a favorite (and is something healthy to pair with your croissants!). 18812 Highway 12, Sonoma, 707-938-7329, bakerandcooksonoma.com

Les Pascals

Lines of Saturday cyclists form outside this cheery yellow Glen Ellen bakery for pastries from yet another team of charming French expats, Pascal and Pascale. Don’t miss the almond croissants. 13758 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-934-8378, lespascalspatisserie.com

Nutella cornetto filled with the creamy chocolate and hazelnut spread, drizzled with chocolate ganache, and topped with whole toasted hazelnuts, at Stellina Pronto. (Courtesy Stellina Pronto) — Nutella cornetto, a sort of Italian croissant, filled with creamy chocolate and hazelnut spread, drizzled with chocolate ganache, and topped with whole toasted hazelnuts, at Stellina Pronto in Petaluma. (Courtesy Stellina Pronto)

Stellina Pronto

Pastries and pizza with an Italian twist. Ridiculously good, well, everything, including their cream puffs and daily focaccia sandwiches. Their Instagram (@stellinapronto) looks so tasty you’ll be drooling. 23 Kentucky St., Petaluma, 707-789-9556, stellinapronto.com

Blooms End at Tenfold Farmstand

Every Friday, Blooms End’s pastry chef Mary Denham brings her croissants and pastries to Petaluma’s newest farm market. Sweet and savory flavors have included coffee cardamom, chocolate ganache, tomato and cheddar, and roasted garlic with pecorino cheese. Preorders recommended. 5300 Red Hill Road, Petaluma, tenfoldfarmstand.com

Patisserie Angelica

This longtime bakery and cake shop has daily almond croissants, plus cream scones and fruit tarts. Having dessert for breakfast isn’t a bad thing. 6821 Laguna Park Way, Sebastopol, 707-827-7998, patisserieangelica.com

Cooking Classes at Sonoma, Napa Vineyards Are the Best Way To Get a Taste of Wine Country

January 2025

By Carey Sweet

Bricoleur Vineyards in Windsor offers pasta making classes with Senior Sous Chef Rebeca Robinson. (Bricoleur Vineyards)

Wineries are not allowed to be restaurants, as decreed by a decades-old ordinance that essentially says wineries are forbidden to make a profit on things that don’t promote wine sales. Yet the typical guest at an elevated tasting experience might never realize that, given the opulent meals prepared by big name chefs at many high-end Wine Country destinations.

For winery chefs, whether they are consultants or employees, the work balances a fine line. Technically, by law, only a handful of California wineries are allowed to have full-service restaurants, due to complicated permit restrictions. But local wineries can offer gourmet “bites” with flights of wine for “educational” purposes.

“We are not a restaurant. We are just doing food and wine pairings,” said Mark Hanson, founder of Bricoleur Vineyards. The winery offers Atelier Bricoleur, a five-course wine and food pairing from celebrity chef Todd Knoll at a private table overlooking the gleaming kitchen ($580 per person). “So when you come and do a tasting, we have a full culinary and food service license, which took about two-and-a-half years to get. That’s what the county will allow; we are not an ad hoc restaurant.”

Bricoleur Vineyards in Windsor offers pasta making classes with wine — Bricoleur Vineyards in Windsor offers pasta making classes with Senior Sous Chef Rebeca Robinson. (Courtesy Bricoleur Vineyards)

The key word is “pairing,” so at this lavish Windsor estate, the meal’s price cleverly includes wine, and a staff educator discusses the crafting and nuances of each pour.

Now, some wineries are taking things further into the culinary realm, and hosting cooking classes. It’s a win-win for wine lovers, as they sip and learn about the great grapes while getting hands-on guidance through artful recipes they might recreate at home.

Should they want to purchase the complementary wines they tasted through each course at dinner — oops, the pairing — even better for the winery.

Note that winery cooking classes tend to sell out fast, so make your reservation early. Some wineries also offer exclusive activities to wine club members, such as access to special dinners and interactive culinary events with estate chefs.

Bricoleur Vineyards

Periodically, Bricoleur’s senior sous chef Rebeca Robinson hosts “Pasta Making with Chef Becca” classes in the winery’s Culinary Kitchen. An upcoming class on Feb. 28 ($125) focuses on the art of stuffed pasta. Its starts with crafting delicate pasta dough from scratch, then making savory fillings to be sealed inside ravioli and tortellini.

The three-hour classes include a welcome glass of Isla Rose Brut Rosé bubbles, a glass of wine while interacting with the class, and a glass of wine with the dinner you made, including focaccia, salad and dessert.

With just 10 seats available, the February and March classes have already sold out. Check Bricoleur’s events page for upcoming classes.

7394 Starr Road, Windsor, 707-857-5700, bricoleurvineyards.com

Cakebread Cellars

For a uniquely custom experience, the winery’s in-house culinary team leads private cooking classes where you can help plan the menus. Hands-on instruction is limited to parties of 10 to 12 guests for lunch or dinner, and features a full winery experience.

You spend the morning or afternoon working with your friends, family or colleagues as the chef shares secrets of the kitchen. Next, you tour the winery. Then it’s on to an appetizer reception and three-course plated meal featuring your own cooking, all paired with wine. Prices vary, and you can upgrade to library wines if you like.

8300 St. Helena Highway, Rutherford, 800-588-0298, cakebread.com

Culinary Institute of America Greystone and CIA at Copia

The imposing St. Helena mansion was built as Greystone Cellars in 1889 as a gravity-flow cooperative winery serving upper Napa Valley grape growers. At the time, it was the largest stone winery in the world. After the Christian Brothers purchased the property in 1950, it expanded into more wines, plus brandies and ports.

Today, you can take food and wine classes in its stately (and now state-of-the-art) kitchen cathedrals, such as the upcoming March 2 session on “California Cheeses and The Wines That Love Them.” You’ll learn the basics of how cheese is made, and the best ways to buy, age, store, serve and cook with cheese. You’ll also taste a broad selection of California cheeses and California wines, evaluate each for flavor, texture and best (plus worst) pairings.

The Culinary Institute of America as seen from the CIA farm at the Charles Krug Winery in St. Helena. (Alvin Jornada / For The Press Democrat) — The Culinary Institute of America Greystone as seen from the CIA farm at the Charles Krug Winery in St. Helena. (Alvin Jornada / For The Press Democrat)

The newly opened CIA at Copia, in Napa, offers daily cooking classes for the food-loving public (Photo: Victor M. Samuel) — The Culinary Institute of America at Copia, in Napa, offers cooking classes for the food-loving public (Photo: Victor M. Samuel)

For a deeper dive into cooking, scoot down the road to CIA at Copia in Napa, where you can enroll in year-round classes like CIA Skills: Easy Entertaining (March 29, $175). It’s one hour of learning hands-on techniques to make elegant hors d‘oeuvres, canapés, spreads and artful cheese platters, plus an hour enjoying the meal with Greystone wine.

Then, sample more wines at each location’s wine bar, for high-tech, automated, self-serve experiences offering local and international wines.

Note that CIA classes fill up quickly and almost always sell out, so reserve quickly, and know that you can also sign up for the waiting list.

CIA Greystone, 2555 Main St., St Helena, 707-967-1100, ciafoodies.com/cia-greystone

CIA at Copia, 500 First St., Napa, 800-888-7850, ciaatcopia.com

Jacuzzi Family Vineyards

Gnocchi is a fun word to say (NYOW-kee), and even more fun to make.

Chef Oscar Bendeck, owner of The Wine Country Collective in Sonoma, is leading a class ($145) at the Sonoma winery on March 23, sharing how to put together the classic Italian dish traditionally made with mashed potato, flour and egg. The ingredients are simple, but the craft takes skill to result in pillowy, light and springy dumplings.

The class includes a wine-paired lunch on the winery’s patio overlooking a protected wetland preserve.

24724 Arnold Drive, Highway 121, Sonoma, 707-931-7516, jacuzziwines.com/events

Napa Chef de Cuisine Vincenzo Loseto Competes on ‘Top Chef’

January 2025

By Heather Irwin

A dish at PRESS Restaurant Napa Valley in St. Helena. (John Troxell/Courtesy Suited Hospitality)

A Napa chef will join the Season 22 cast of “Top Chef” when it debuts March 13 on Bravo.

Chef Vincenzo Loseto, chef de cuisine of St. Helena’s one Michelin-starred Press restaurant, joins 14 rising star chefs from the United States and Canada for the chance to win $250,000 and the title of “Top Chef.” The winner will also receive a feature in Food & Wine magazine and headline a dinner at the James Beard House in New York.

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The Bay Area’s Anna El-Wattar of San Francisco’s Birch & Rye is also a contestant, along with chefs from Kentucky, Texas, New York, Los Angeles, Chicago and Montreal.

Shot in Canada, this season of “Top Chef” will showcase ingredients from throughout the country’s forests, prairies, farms and coastlines. The contestants will also perform decidedly nonculinary stunts, including a climb on the 1,815-foot National Tower in Toronto.

Chefs Casey Thompson of the now-closed Folktable restaurant and Douglas Keane of Cyrus are both former “Top Chef” contestants. Keane also won “Top Chef Masters” in 2013.

More details about the show at bravotv.com/top-chef.

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

Joe Matos Cheese Factory in Santa Rosa Closing

January 2025

By Heather Irwin

Sylvia Tucker looks over the shutdown production facility at Joe Matos Cheese and Farmstead Co. After selling their remaining inventory, the 45-year-old cheesemaking operation will officially close Jan. 31. Wednesday January 29, 2025. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

When Joe Matos Cheese and Farmstead Co. shut down production of its Portugese-style St. Jorge cheese in November 2024, the writing was on the wall. After selling their remaining inventory, the 45-year-old cheesemaking operation will officially close Jan. 31.

“We were just going underwater,” said owner Sylvia Tucker, daughter of founders Joe and Mary Matos. She points to her 84-year-old father’s declining health, an insurance claim that raised their rates by 25% and the growing political and economic pressures on small family dairies as the main reasons for the closure.

The family’s buttery, nutty aged raw milk cheese was produced on-site using milk from their 35 dairy cows and was a frequent sight on artisan charcuterie boards at restaurants and wineries. Joe Matos brought the seventh-generation recipe to Sonoma County from São Jorge Island in the Azorez, where he was born.

“Our dream was to keep it going for him through more generations. It’s just hard to see it end after so long,” Tucker said, tearing up during the phone interview. Her father understands the need for the closure, and now is focused on staying in his home as long as possible.

Sylvia Tucker visits with Matilda at Joe Matos Cheese and Farmstead Co. After selling their remaining cheese inventory, the 45-year-old cheesemaking operation will officially close Jan. 31. Wednesday January 29, 2025. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat) — Sylvia Tucker visits with Matilda at Joe Matos Cheese and Farmstead Co. After selling their remaining cheese inventory, the 45-year-old cheesemaking operation will officially close Jan. 31. Photographed Wednesday, Jan. 29, 2025. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

After the whey has been drained from the curd, workers fill forms for the wheels of St. George’s cheese produced at the Joe Matos Cheese Factory in southwest Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

The Matos’ closure could be sign of more trouble for artisan cheesemakers in the North Bay. In December, nearby Bohemain Creamery shuttered after 14 years.

“I think it’s going to get worse before it gets better,” Tucker said.

Local dairies, once plentiful, have precipitously dropped in recent years due to rising feed, fuel and labor costs. In early January, a dozen dairy and beef cattle farmers agreed to cease operations and suspend their leases after a drawn out battle over the Point Reyes National Seashore. Environmentalists hailed it as a win for the restoration of local flora and fauna.

“It’s generations of families all around us,” said Tucker.

Restaurateur Gerard Nebesky of Gerard’s Paella laments the loss.

“Joe Matos has been a secret weapon for Sonoma County chef arsenals for so many years. His cheese truly elevates anything it comes into play with. It’s just a shame to see this go,” Nebesky said.

For now, Tucker and her family plan to continue raising beef cattle. Plans to reopen the cheese factory someday are murky, but Tucker said she hopes to continue Matos’ legacy.

“I’m keeping most of my cows and maybe somewhere in the future I’ll be able to start it back up. That’s definitely my hope,” she said.

Joe Matos Cheese and Farmstead Co. will be open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily through Jan. 31 selling the last of its cheese. 3669 Llano Road, Santa Rosa, 707-584-5283, joematoscheeseco.com

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

Japanese-Style Shokakko Food Truck Serves up Unique Dishes in Sonoma County

January 2025

By Heather Irwin

The “Mother-Clucker” sandwich with twice fried chicken, slaw, pickled jalepeño, bang bang dip on a toasted brioche bun from Shokakko, an Asian street food truck on their regular Thursday night visit Jan. 23, 2025 at Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

What happens when you merge crab Rangoon and mozzarella sticks?

A fantastical Franken-croquette stuffed with gooey cheese, dots of artificial crab and cream cheese enrobed in a crispy crust. It’s over-the-top like a hot fudge sundae with extra whipped cream — too much, but never enough.

It’s also how a trio of fine dining chefs have put their fledgling food truck, Shokakko, on the radar of Sonoma County foodies.

That, and their loaded fries with Spam.

Shokakko Food Truck — Crab and Cheese Croquettes from Shokakko, an Asian street food truck, on their regular Thursday night visit, Jan. 23, 2025, at Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

“It’s the things we liked eating on our days off. The stuff we couldn’t find in Sonoma County,” said chef Elijah Trujillo of the food trailer he cofounded with his partner Kayla Hendrix and friend Kazuya “Kaz” Makishima in August 2024.

Tired of fine dining foams and tweezers, this merry band of young chefs drew inspiration from the late-night yatai food stalls in Japan that sell ramen, fish cakes and skewers of grilled chicken. The trio uses highbrow culinary skills to create cream-filled fruit sandwiches, skyscraper-sized fried chicken sandwiches, pork katsu fries and husky crab and cheese-filled croquettes.

Shokakko, which means small but certain happiness in Japanese, is all about salty, sweet, creamy, spicy, hot mess dishes that go better with a pint of IPA than an oaky Cabernet.

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In the weeds

On a warm Thursday evening in January, the 8-by-16-foot Shokakko trailer was parked outside Old Caz brewpub in Rohnert Park. It’s one of several breweries they visit in a monthly food truck round-robin. Some days, they are at private events or visit surefire nosh spots like Outer Planes comics and games in Santa Rosa, where they first set up shop.

By 5:30 p.m., there’s a growing line of hungry customers. Inside the narrow galley kitchen, Flo Rida sets the beat as the crew weaves around each other without a missed step. All three sport dark aprons, black shirts, messy buns and tattooed forearms, giving punk rock vibes.

But tidy containers of saffron threads and bias-cut scallions are unmistakable giveaways of their white-tablecloth backgrounds.

Pork Belly Donburi with kimchi, bok choy and bang bang dip from Shokakko, an Asian street food truck on their regular Thursday night visit Jan. 23, 2025, at Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Pork Belly Donburi with kimchi, bok choy and bang bang dip from Shokakko, an Asian street food truck. Photographed on their regular Thursday night visit, Jan. 23, 2025, at Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

“Two dons all day,” says Trujillo, while wrapping an intimidatingly large “Mother-Clucker” sandwich and relaying orders for donburi rice bowls ($16-18), best eaten with braised pork belly or Japanese curry. Vegetarian options are also available.

Makishima mans the fryer, turning out piles of Kamakazi fries ($12-$16) that are required eating. The weight of this overly-generous pile of seasoned fries is wrist-injuring and is drizzled with a sweet chili sauce mayo, gochujang glaze (made with chili crunch, fermented chili sauce and savory red chili paste) and furikake (a Japanese condiment). Add cubes of fried Spam to the unholy mound, because you can.

Twice-fried chicken sandwiches ($16) are five-napkin affairs. Go for the “Mother-Clucker” with piles of slaw, pickled jalapeños and “Bang Bang” dip made with gochujang, chili crunch and fermented chiles on a brioche bun. It’s fiery and filled with umami but not tongue-singeing.

Try everything

On a lucky night you can find specials like Miso Banana Pudding on the menu at Shokakko, an Asian street food truck Thursday Jan. 23, 2025 at Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — On a lucky night you can find specials like Miso Banana Pudding on the menu at Shokakko. Photographed Thursday, Jan. 23, 2025, at Old Caz Beer in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Hendrix is the doyenne of sweets. On my visit, her banana pudding layered with sweet-savory miso sauce is served in a cheeky 16-ounce Solo cup. It’s nostalgic and genre-bending but will inevitably give way to another of pastry chef Hendrix’s whims — like the Japanese milk bread sandwich filled with whipped cream and fruit that sends the Sonoma County Foodies Facebook page into a frenzy.

“It got ridiculous. They would sell out in an hour,” said Makishima of the snaking queues for the dessert. I hint that they should return them to the menu, but Hendrix isn’t biting. They all agree that changing the menu frequently is what makes the job fun.

There are plenty of other Shokakko goodies on the menu, including Spam Musubi ($6), black garlic string beans with fried shallots ($9) and a kids menu with chicken fingers or a veggie and rice bowl.

Hendrix encourages people to dive into the menu with abandon and take a leap of faith.

“Don’t be afraid to order something you don’t know,” she said. “We’ve always got something new.”

You can find the Shokakko’s latest schedule of stops at Instagram.com/eat_shokakko. They’re typically open from 2 p.m. until they sell out Wednesday through Saturday, but the schedule changes frequently.

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

‘There’s Power in Being the Underdog’: Bazaar Sonoma Serves Unapologetic Chinese Cuisine in a Cozy, Creative Space

January 2025

By Heather Irwin

The Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini team, left to right, Em Grayho, co-owners chef Sean Quan and Jenny Phan with chef Clayton Carter run Forestville’s new restaurant, Oct. 17, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

On a chilly Monday afternoon, chef Sean Quan fills an electric kettle for tea behind the counter of Bazaar Sonoma, aka BaSo, the rural Forestville restaurant he co-owns with his wife, Jenny Phan.

It’s the couple’s only day off from running their increasingly busy operation, and as Quan waits for the water to boil, he walks around the space, grabbing sturdy teacups, pouring sunflower seeds into a dish, and filling the pot with roasted corn kernels, which make a surprisingly delicious brew. Last week’s menu sits nearby, with most of the dim sum dishes crossed out, signifying they were sold out. Bags of roasted chicken wing and crayfish-flavored Lays potato chips dangle temptingly from a hook above the cash register.

“Asians have a great snack game,” says Quan.

For the past three years, the couple, who moved to Sonoma County from Chicago for Quan to take a position at SingleThread, have created a series of adventurous (and often very secretive) pop-up dinners: fried chicken, through their late-night Second Staff restaurant takeovers; dim sum, with the high-low concept FNCY + PNTS; and traditional Chinese cuisine “with untraditional values” at The Matriarch.

Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo Chinese restaurant — Co-owner Jenny Phan chats with local Barbra Friedman at Forestville’s new Chinese restaurant Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini, Oct. 17, 2024. Phan runs the front of the house, while her husband and co-owner chef Sean Quan works the kitchen. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Now, just a few months after taking over the perfectly imperfect space that’s been home to a nostalgic lineup of restaurants, including Backyard and Brew, Quan and Phan have embraced an unapologetic and ambitious menu of regional Chinese cuisine based heavily on Sichuan recipes. Creating their own restaurant on their terms is the goal, says Quan. “BaSo needs to be exciting and show that it’s different. There’s power in being the underdog.”

Not in their kitchen

Quan and Phan met in law school in Chicago before they both were absorbed into the world of high-end restaurants — Quan in the kitchen and Phan working front of house (and in the kitchen as needed). At Chicago’s Alinea, considered one of the best restaurants in the world, Quan’s first chef mentor was a tough but wise “Mr. Miyagi” type who guided him through the nearly unendurable quest for perfection.

Later, Quan took a position at a restaurant populated with fine dining “refugees” battered by abusive chefs, then was on the opening staff of a celebrity-fronted Los Angeles restaurant overly obsessed with stars. He ultimately became disillusioned with the situation.

“It’s easy to create a place people want to eat, but hard to create a place where people want to work at,” says Quan.

He cringes at the memory of watching a fellow cook kicked to the ground by an executive chef and stepped over. The horror stories are plentiful, especially at high-end restaurants where the pressure for perfection is crushing.

“It can be such an abusive environment,” he says. “I would never let something like that happen in my kitchen.”

Wonton noodle soup from Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo, a Chinese restaurant — Wonton Noodle Soup with pork and shrimp dumplings from Bazaar Sonoma, Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. The dumplings and egg noodles in perfumed broth are a loving tribute to Jenny Phan’s father. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

In Sonoma, Quan and Phan realized they could create the culture they longed for and explore a variety of concepts. Initially, they wanted to fry chicken for their industry friends who worked long, late hours. They cooked at breweries, cafes closed in the evening, wherever they could find a spot. It was all promoted by word of mouth and Instagram posts.

The pop-ups were purposefully tricky to find, says Quan, and the hours were confusing. “We wanted to see who would actually make it. The Second Staff was for locals, not people who were coming as a ‘bucket list’ thing to do. We wanted a restaurant that punishes you for being a tourist and not a local,” he says.

It’s not exactly exclusivity — more natural selection — and Quan insists there’s a logic to it. Growing the business organically and with community input allows BaSo the ability to adapt and grow. “There’s an opportunity to be playful, irreverent and candid.”

Out of the comfort zone

During the pandemic, Quan and Phan spent time in small, family-run Chinese and Korean restaurants in the suburbs of Los Angeles. Mostly tucked into strip malls, they’re aimed at local communities rather than food tourists.

“They’re not meant to be comfortable or user-friendly, and you’re lucky to taste that food — to be part of it for just one day,” he said. “Going out of your comfort zone is what makes it good.”

And that is also the idea of BaSo.

“We don’t want you to plan your whole day around coming here. It’s not a destination restaurant. I mean, if you do, we’re flattered… But we’re not trying to create some narrative-driven experience,” he explains.

And while BaSo’s menu of blazing-hot mapo tofu and handmade dumplings seems “authentic,” especially when there is a dearth of Chinese food in Sonoma County that hasn’t been Americanized, Quan shies away from the description.

“It’s more about being unapologetic. In China, they don’t make concessions to people’s comfort with the food. There are bones and gristle. You pick it out. That makes the food feel real.” Though you won’t find any gristly bits on his menu, Quan says Bazaar Sonoma is not about making things more palatable for a larger audience. “We respect your palate and your adventurousness,” he explains.

Zhong Dumplings with BaSo homemade chili crisp and sweet pork dumplings from Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini, Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Zhong Dumplings with BaSo’s housemade chili crisp and sweet pork dumplings from Bazaar Sonoma, Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. Zhong dumplings are a popular street snack in Chengdu. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Take the couple’s Zhong dumplings, a popular street snack in Chengdu, a city in central Sichuan province. This classic Sichuanese water dumpling filled with pork is all about the sauce. “It’s what cooks would call a perfect dish — it has everything, but it’s so simple,” said Quan. For the sauce, he mixes three kinds of soy sauce, brown sugar, garlic, a collection of Chinese spices and Bazaar Sonoma’s chili crunch into an unctuous, gravy-like consistency. Poured over the soft dumplings, it is an intoxicatingly sweet, spicy, savory mess that surprises with each bite.

“Every shop makes it a little different, depending on what they put in their chili crunch, spices, meats, but it’s irresistible … once you get it in your brain, you love it,” he says.

The Toyota rule

For Chinese New Year, celebrated in late January, the couple plans to serve a buffet of regional Chinese dishes, possibly on paper plates. Stressing their staff during the holiday just isn’t the point. Quan and Phan call it the Toyota Rule. If you ignore everything else, it’s easy to be perfect — to make a remarkably fast car like a Lamborghini, for example. But long-term sustainability and comfort are more nuanced — like a Toyota, made to last the duration.

Quan and Phan want to be that Toyota.

“What’s important is that you’re at a pace to keep you engaged but not strained,” says Quan. The couple strive to find that balance for their staff and create a safe, creative environment.

Shanghai Soup Dumplings with pork, scallion and ginger from Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini, Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Shanghai Soup Dumplings with pork, scallion and ginger from Bazaar Sonoma, Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

The couple and their team continue to innovate. Later this winter, Quan and Phan plan to flesh out a new concept called Ugly Dumpling, where diners can bring frozen dumplings home or send them to the kitchen to be steamed onsite. Ultimately, they hope the restaurant will become a “third space” for the community.

It’s a new-old idea gaining more traction among restaurateurs who want their restaurants to serve more than just a meal. Instead, patrons are encouraged to linger, to stop by for tea or a snack, and to be in a place that isn’t home or work, but acts as a cozy alternative to both.

Sipping the last of his tea, Quan turns on color-changing LED chandeliers that bathe the restaurant in blue, red, purple and back to blue. The dining room glows, as an undulating green mural of west county hillsides and vineyards reflects the light.

“Come back for some tea sometime,” says Quan warmly, as dusk settles over the restaurant.

Standout dishes

Hot and Sour Potato Stir-Fry: Though made with the simplest of ingredients — grated potatoes and carrots, garlic, vinegar, salt and a bit of sugar — this dish is complex in a way that’s hard to explain. Potatoes are quickly wok-fried but left with a bit of crunch, then served cold, like a salad.

Silken Egg and Tomato: Stewed tomatoes sit atop a soft egg custard, like a savory flan. No chewing necessary.

Sizzling Black Cod for Two: Quan pours boiling oil over gently steamed fish and greens, adding intensity to the soy-ginger broth beneath — outstanding.

Toothpick Beef: Small bites of beef encrusted with cumin, fennel, sesame seeds, dried Chinese chiles, roasted brown sugar and a dusting of peanuts, served on tiny skewers for a nutty, slightly sweet, spicy punch.

Toothpick Beef dusted with peanuts and intense aromatics served as a finger food or over rice from Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini, Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Toothpick Beef dusted with peanuts and intense aromatics served as a finger food or over rice from Bazaar Sonoma, Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Mapo Tofu: If spicy is your thing, this roiling pot of silken tofu with broad beans, eggplant and chili is a thrill. Pair with jasmine rice to cool down the heat.

Old Beijing Noodles: Starchy noodles are topped with pork and sweet bean “Bolognese” sauce for an uncomplicated street food dish that bursts with flavor.

Wonton Noodle Soup: Light pork and shrimp dumplings and egg noodles in perfumed broth are a loving tribute to Jenny Phan’s father.

Read dining editor Heather Irwin’s first review of Bazaar Sonoma here.

Bazaar Sonoma Restaurant & Konbini, 6566 Front St., Forestville. 707-614-8056, bazaar-sonoma.com

World’s First Cloned Winery Dog Now Home in Sonoma County

January 2025

By Dana Rebmann

Winery dogs can enjoy a status akin to rock stars in Sonoma County, gracing the cover of books, amassing love on social media, and in some cases, even boasting their own wine labels.

But the recent arrival of Flambeaux Wine’s new puppy Mella (short for Gemella, the Italian word for twin) is garnering a bit more than the typical oohs and aahs. A hard-to-find Italian Maremma breed, the adorable, wiggly 8-week-old furball is inducing smiles and countless questions everywhere she goes.

Mella is believed to be the world’s first cloned winery dog – an identical twin of Flambeaux’s winery dog Stella – only born nine years later. It’s a tough concept for many to wrap their heads around.

Art Murray owner of Flambeaux and winery dog Stella — Flambeaux Winery owner Art Murray and winery dog Stella. (Elan Villamor)

Flambeaux Winery cloned puppy Mella arrival at STS — At just shy of 8-weeks-old, Mella arrived in California on Jan. 14, 2025, via a flight to Charles M. Schulz – Sonoma County Airport. (Flambeaux Winery)

“I think of Stella as a unicorn dog. She’s just perfect,” said Flambeaux owner Art Murray. “She’s my whole world. Everybody laughs because it’s like, I baby that dog more than anybody.”

When Murray was unable to contact the breeder from whom he purchased Stella, a rare breed, a friend joked he should think about cloning Stella. The idea took root and he started researching the possibility.

“I’ve always been an outside-the-box person. It didn’t seem that strange to me,” said Murray. “But what I was worried about was the response that I would get from other people who don’t maybe have that same attitude, you know, like, ‘that’s weird’ or ‘that’s silly.’ ‘You should get a rescue dog.’ Of course, there’s a need for that.”

Texas-based ViaGen Pets & Equine has been cloning household pets for a bit more than a decade. But it’s not without controversy. Though it may seem like relatively new technology, it’s been nearly 30 years since the story of Dolly the sheep caught the world’s attention.

Today, cloning is not limited to dogs and cats. The application is also being used as a tool to help endangered species by increasing genetic diversity and boosting diminished populations. Working with the San Diego Zoo Wildlife Alliance since 2020, ViaGen has cloned two endangered Przewalski’s horses using cellular material cryopreserved more than 40 years ago.

While cloning a beloved pet might be appealing to some, it is prohibitively expensive for most animal owners. ViaGen charges $50,000 to produce a genetic twin of a dog or cat.

The company wouldn’t provide a specific number, but according to ViaGen business manager Lauren Aston, it has “cloned a few hundred dogs and cats” since 2014. For pet owners debating the possibility of cloning, the company will store and preserve a pets’ cells for $1,600, plus a $150 yearly fee.

“We have seen, since COVID, a huge surge in people wanting our services,” said Aston. “I cannot imagine my life without this piece of my soul. And we hear that consistently. It’s like a soul animal. It’s my soul pet. And those are the folks that have the tendency to say, this is for me.”

Flambeaux Winery dog Stella is a hard-to-find Italian Maremma breed. (Flambeaux Winery)

Flambeaux cloned winery pup Mella — Flambeaux Winery’s new cloned puppy Mella at 8 weeks old. (Flambeaux Winery)

Dr. Margaret Basurto of Healdsburg Veterinary Hospital has cared for Stella since she was a puppy. When Murray decided to move forward with the cloning process, Basurto performed the required tissue biopsy.

“She’s such a good family dog. There’s just a lot of love surrounding this animal,” said Basurto. “One of the big things that my owners, each and every one of my owners, would tell you is that they just want more time with their pets.”

Stella’s tissue sample was transported to Texas, where ViaGen created an embryo, and in November 2024, implanted it into a surrogate dog. (According to ViaGen, surrogates are used once and adopted after giving birth.)

On Jan. 14, just shy of 8-weeks-old, Mella arrived in California via a flight to Charles M. Schulz – Sonoma County Airport. For Murray, it was love at first sight.

And though Stella and Mella are genetically identical, they are still two different dogs.

“I can already see some personality differences just having had both of them as puppies,” said Murray. “Mella plays with toys, listens to and responds to music, and watches TV. These are things that Stella has never done, not once.”

While a majority of pet owners make the choice to clone their animal after it has died, Murray opted not to wait. That way, Stella has some years to show her twin the ropes, providing time for everyone to bond.

“The way we live now, dogs are absolutely a part of the family. And you just get this slice of time with them and it just feels cruel,” Murray said. “At some point, [Stella’s] going to go, and I just can’t even imagine what it would be like to not have her. So, yeah, it may not be her, but I’ll have another to kind of ease that very difficult time.”