As the onetime coastal headquarters of Guglielmo Marconi’s long-distance radio receiving station, and later home to Synanon’s infamous religious community, the 62-acre Marconi State Historic Park has never been known for its relationship to cuisine. But a year after a multimillion-dollar renovation of the historic conference center, a well-known local chef has opened Mable’s restaurant in the Lodge at Marconi with a luxurious Mediterranean-inspired dinner menu.
Locals may remember chef Les Goodman of Goodman’s Jewish Deli, a farmers market pop-up with fresh bagels, chocolate babka and a memorable shakshuka that put the Santa Rosa Junior College culinary chef instructor on the map. In fact, I’m still looking for a version of the smoky tomato and pepper poached egg breakfast dish as addictive as Goodman’s.
At Mable’s, Goodman has upped his game with a shareable menu that includes smoked and tinned fish with fried Saltines; sourdough focaccia with house-cultured butter; local cheese and charcuterie boards; a Ukranian seven-layer dip with smoked trout; grilled kofta meatballs; whole roasted cauliflower with herb and chili sauce; catch-of-the-day fish entrées; roasted half chicken with salsa verde and grilled Stemple Ranch steak.
The restaurant is open to the public, and it’s a good spot for a cocktail and snacks after a hike around the park or a visit to the coast. Mable’s has a full bar and extensive wine and beer selections. Dinner is available from 4 to 9 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday.
18500 Highway 1, Marshall, 415-663-9020, mablesrestaurant.com
You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.