Page 2 – Sonoma Magazine

Spend a Perfect Wine Weekend in Northern Sonoma County

October 2025

By Tina Caputo and Carey Sweet

Braised Short Ribs with polenta and broccolini and a red wine Demi Reduction sauce from the Beet Restaurant and Wine Shop Friday, September 13, 2024, in Cloverdale. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Northern Sonoma County combines rolling hills and petite valleys with redwood forests, vineyards, and charming small towns — from sophisticated Healdsburg to “Wild West” Geyserville to down-to-earth Cloverdale. Home to Alexander and Dry Creek valleys, the region is a magnet for fans of Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, and Sauvignon Blanc.

Taste

Aesthete in Healdsburg — Aesthete Winery & Farm in Healdsburg. (Aesthete Winery & Farm)

Aesthete Farm & Winery

If relaxing in Adirondack chairs on the banks of Dry Creek while sipping top-notch Sauvignon Blanc, rosé, and Pinot Noir is your idea of a great way to while away the afternoon, this is your spot. Set on the creekside estate formerly owned by Truett Hurst Winery, the winery includes multiple patios and garden nooks, along with friendly farm animals — be sure to bring a few quarters for the goat food dispenser — plus picnic tables for bring-your-own feasts. Reservations encouraged. 5610 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. 707-431-4444, aesthetewines.com

Trattore Farms

In a region known for scenic vistas, Trattore Farms takes the concept to new heights with 360-degree views of Dry Creek Valley from the winery’s expansive terrace. Wines are inspired by France’s Rhône Valley, from Roussanne to Syrah-based red blends. The farm also cultivates olive trees and makes its own oils, which guests can sample on their own or alongside a flight of wines. Food is part of the fun, with panini and charcuterie boards on the menu, plus wood-fired pizza on Sundays through October. Reservations recommended. 7878 Dry Creek Road, Geyserville. 707-431-7200, trattorefarms.com

Unti Vineyards in Healdsburg. (Unti Vineyards)

More wineries worth seeking out:

At frills-free Unti Vineyards, explore easy-to-love wines made from grape varieties commonly found in Italy and southern France — including Fiano, Grenache, and more. Tastings by appointment. 4202 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. 707-433-5590, untivineyards.com

Family-owned Nalle Winery is home to century-old Zinfandel vines and a friendly, rustic atmosphere with tables and chairs set among the vineyards. Reservations required Wednesday through Friday and Sundays. 2383 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. 707-527-2595, nallewinery.com

The living roof covering the Nalle Winery tasting room Friday, August 5, 2025, in the Dry Creek Valley. The roof still grows the original rosemary planted in 1984. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — The living roof covering the Nalle Winery tasting room Friday, Aug. 5, 2025, in the Dry Creek Valley. The roof still grows the original rosemary planted in 1984. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

A bottle of Marine Layer Wines 2023 Picpoul wine in Healdsburg on Wednesday, January 8, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat) — A bottle of Marine Layer Wines 2023 Picpoul wine in Healdsburg on Wednesday, Jan. 8, 2025. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

Marine Layer Wines on the Healdsburg Plaza is known for its modern, design-forward vibe and small-lot Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the cool-climate Sonoma Coast — including single-vineyard showstoppers. 308 B Center St., Healdsburg. 707-395-0830, marinelayerwines.com

Dine

Acorn Cafe

Set in the former Oakville Grocery space on the Healdsburg Plaza, Acorn is a casual, order-at-the-counter affair that’s great for all-day breakfast, sandos, and late afternoon snacks with a glass of local wine. Don’t miss the next-level Lemon Ricotta Hotcake made with housemade lemon curd and topped with lemon-lavender ice cream. 124 Matheson St., Healdsburg. 707-955-7001, acornhealdsburg.com

Cyrus

This Michelin-starred destination in Geyserville features a progressive journey that moves from room to room — from the lounge to the “chocolate room” — with each incredible dish. For a more casual experience, hit the Bubbles Lounge or snag a spot for the intimate Sunday Family Meal of Korean-style fried chicken. 275 Highway 128, Geyserville. 707-723-5999, cyrusrestaurant.com

El Milagro

This under-the-radar find is beloved by locals for its authentic, regional Mexican fare — especially the signature moles and stews. Last year, the Cloverdale-based eatery added a location at 14 Matheson St. in Healdsburg, which recently reopened in a new, larger spot on Healdsburg Avenue with an expanded menu. 241 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg. 707-385-4672, elmilagrohealdsburg.com

The Beet

This cozy downtown space doubles as a wine shop and restaurant. Lunch and dinner menus are eclectic, and ingredients are locally sourced. Night owls take heart: The Beet is open until 11 p.m. on Friday nights for a weekly dance party. 116 E. First St., Cloverdale. 707-669-5080, cloverdalebeet.com

Explore

Ponder your next meal while walking 3 miles of scenic trails at the Healdsburg Ridge Open Space Preserve, just a five-minute drive from downtown. Arabian Way, Healdsburg. ci.healdsburg.ca.us

Start the weekend early with free Thursday night music sessions at Little Saint’s upstairs venue, The Second Story. The vibrant space showcases diverse acts, including the “Dad Country” series. 25 North St., Healdsburg. 707-433-8207, littlesainthealdsburg.com

Musician Phoebe Bridgers gives a surprise performance at Little Saint in Healdsburg on Thursday, Aug. 4, 2022. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)

Stroll the Cloverdale Sculpture Trail downtown to admire an array of playful works from a dozen respected sculptors. cloverdalesculpturetrail.org

Insider Tip

Hunt for “Fairy Doors” on the Healdsburg Plaza

Hidden at the bases of building exteriors around town are more than a dozen whimsical miniature doors waiting to be discovered.

Fairy doors in Healdsburg — A small fairy door near the entrance of the Stafford Gallery in Healdsburg on Monday, April 30, 2018. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

La Ruche in Healdsburg — Nicole White’s her passion for honey from around the world led her to open, La Ruche, a new honey and mead tasting room Jan. 16, 2025, in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Get Buzzed at La Ruche

Book a tasting at the honey boutique to sample local and internationally sourced honeys paired with charcuterie and mead. 409A Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg. 707-909-0514, laruchehealdsburg.com

Petaluma’s Brigitte Bistro To Be Featured on ‘Check, Please! Bay Area’

October 2025

By Maci Martell

Traditional French cuisine from Brigitte Bistro Sunday, July 6, 2025 in Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

This November, “Check, Please! Bay Area” — KQED’s James Beard and Emmy Award-winning restaurant review series — will celebrate its 20th year of showcasing locals’ favorite eateries around the region. Among the restaurants featured in the upcoming season is Petaluma’s own Brigitte Bistro.

The four-episode season will include notable Bay Area storytellers, celebrities, and current and former Golden State Warriors. Episodes will air at 7:30 p.m. Thursdays starting Oct. 30 on channel KQED 9. The episode featuring Brigitte Bistro will air Nov. 20.

“Brigitte Bistro channels the flavors of Southern France through chef Nick Ronan’s childhood memories,” stated KQED’s announcement of the new season. “Think soupe à l’oignon, steak tartare and île flottante, all infused with a spirit of love and joie de vivre.”

Chef Nick Ronan prepares the béchamel sauce for Steak Frites from Brigitte Bistro Sunday, July 6, 2025 in Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Chef Nick Ronan prepares the béchamel sauce for steak frites from Brigitte Bistro Sunday, July 6, 2025, in Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Behind that “spirit of love” is chef/owner Nick Ronan, whose vision to share with the world aligns with his life’s motto: “Love, food, wine, passion, life and people.”

This isn’t the first time Ronan has been on “Check, Please!” — the French chef has operated several restaurants in San Francisco over the past two decades that were also featured on the show. In a recent phone interview, Ronan remarked how this time felt both familiar and “so much different.”

“It’s very similar to the first time I was on the show 17 years ago,” he said, “but this one has even more meaning.”

Before opening Brigitte Bistro, Ronan took a four-year hiatus from the restaurant industry and worked as a private chef around the Bay Area and Wine Country.

“After my mother passed away, I decided to come back to the industry and to this special town and special county and named the restaurant after my mother,” he said. “So the soul of my mother, combining with the soul of the county and the town of Petaluma, that’s my vision of how I wanted to come back. (It) was just perfect.”

Chef Nick Ronan chose to add a mural of his hometown in southern France to the wall outside Brigitte Bistro Sunday, July 6, 2025, in Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

The Brigitte Bistro dining room features tables of different heights and dimensions because “Everybody’s different,” says Chef Nick Ronan Sunday, July 6, 2025 in Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Ronan opened his French bistro just over a year ago, on April 2, 2024, so it was a surprise to him to already be featured on TV.

“It usually takes longer to be selected,” he said. “But I guess there was a lot of people asking for Brigitte to be selected, so I was very honored.”

Ronan made around a dozen dishes for the “Check, Please!” crew, which he called top-notch and professional. He was especially heartened by the crowd of locals waiting at the door just as the restaurant opened on the day of filming.

While admitting that being on TV “wasn’t my thing, really,” Ronan said he now has more understanding of the industry — and the message he wants to share with viewers — than when he made his first “Check, Please!” appearance.

“It’s a beautiful thing,” he said. “It’s not only for my mother; it’s just really amazing to be able to be part of Petaluma’s scenery and Sonoma County and be able to share it on a larger scale — our county, our town and, of course, definitely my vision and my mother’s legacy.”

Onion Soup Gratinee with croutons and melted Gruyère from Brigitte Bistro Sunday, July 6, 2025 in Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Onion Soup Gratinee with croutons and melted Gruyère from Brigitte Bistro Sunday, July 6, 2025, in Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Ronan’s vision is all about authenticity. When the episode featuring his restaurant airs, he hopes viewers take away a sense of what it means to spend two hours of one’s life sharing a meal in an inviting space.

“Everybody is special and everybody deserves to feel special. So I want viewers to understand and to see that we will make you feel special. We will remind you how special you are,” he said.

“We tend to forget to remind each other how special we are, and it doesn’t cost anything to make you feel special. The fact that you come already makes us feel special, so we have to give it back 10 times, and I hope and I think viewers will see that.”

Penngrove’s Grove Speakeasy Shouldn’t Be a Secret

October 2025

By Heather Irwin

Fried Green Tomatoes with roasted corn, toybox tomatoes, avocado cream and fried basil at the Grove Speakeasy Thursday, Oct. 9, 2025 in Penngrove. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

The squat, two-story building on the southern end of Penngrove’s tiny Main Street has worn many hats over its 125-year history – hotel, dive bar, Prohibition speakeasy, lesbian-owned bohemian music venue and biker bar. But one theme has remained constant: booze.

In late August, the space at 10056 Main St. reopened as The Grove, offering an elevated yet approachable menu served in a chandelier-lit dining room with a vintage flair. It’s still very much a bar – just with fewer sticky tables, a working bathroom door (RIP, Black Cat) and without the bras stapled to the ceiling or rough-and-tumble regulars once bellied up to the counter.

Restaurateur and investor Jeff Inglin of Petaluma’s Beyond the Glory sports bar owns the new venture, but it’s his 25-year-old son Mike and Mike’s fiancée, Ava Chabot, who have made the project their own. The couple manages the day-to-day operations and frequently pitches in as kitchen help, bar staff or servers – very much a family affair.

They’re also responsible for The Grove’s breezy, 1920s speakeasy aesthetic. Think velvet barstools, restored wood floors, flapper-era posters, embossed tin ceiling tiles and a dramatic crystal chandelier. The ancient oak bar remains the heart of the dining room, though its most colorful tales are probably best left steeped in its gin-and-tonic-soaked grain.

The bar and main dining room at the Grove Speakeasy Thursday, Oct. 9, 2025 in Penngrove. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — The bar and main dining room at the Grove Speakeasy Thursday, Oct. 9, 2025, in Penngrove. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Chef Gus Vega cranks up the heat and great tastes in the tiny kitchen at the Grove Speakeasy Thursday, Oct. 9, 2025 in Penngrove. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Chef Gus Vega cranks up the heat and great tastes in the tiny kitchen at the Grove Speakeasy Thursday, Oct. 9, 2025, in Penngrove. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

The food

Chef Gus Vega, 35, creates a surprisingly ambitious menu from a kitchen barely the size of a walk-in closet. Every square inch serves a purpose, and during busy hours, the close quarters create an intimate, high-energy environment for the small culinary team.

“You get to know each other’s every move,” Vega said. His resume includes stints at Petaluma’s Central Market, Seared and Cafe Zazzle, as well as Salt and Stone in Kenwood and The Fig Cafe in Glen Ellen. Now, he’s diving headfirst into dishes like seared sole Dore with a lemon caper beurre blanc ($34), a cassoulet-like duck cazuela ($34) and steak frites with black garlic butter ($32).

Seared Halibut with mashed potatoes, garlic spinach and lemon caper beurre blanc at the Grove Speakeasy Thursday, Oct. 9, 2025 in Penngrove. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Seared Halibut with mashed potatoes, garlic spinach and lemon caper beurre blanc at the Grove Speakeasy Thursday, Oct. 9, 2025, in Penngrove. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

While a few expediting hiccups occurred during our visits, most dishes were well-executed and thoughtfully composed.

Vega’s passion for Southern cuisine shows in staples like shrimp and grits ($16) on the dinner menu, along with a fried oyster po’boy ($22), biscuits and gravy ($20) and chicken and waffles ($22) for weekend brunch.

With minimal storage, ingredients are ordered and delivered in small quantities, usually enough for just two days, so the menu changes frequently based on availability. That’s just the way Vega likes it.

“Food is my life,” he said. “I love to see happy people eating my food.”

But not everyone was thrilled with the changes when The Grove first opened.

“Some locals talked about boycotting us,” said Chabot, referencing the building’s previous incarnation as Mack’s, a biker- and sports-friendly dive. Still, she said, old regulars occasionally stop by, and usually leave smiling.

“If you want to be part of this, there’s always a seat here for you,” Vega added.

Best bets

The menu changes frequently and shifts seasonally. Several dishes from early fall, like fried green tomatoes, chicken succotash and pibil sliders, are no longer available. Recent additions include duck poutine ($22) with shoestring fries and cheddar curds, fritto misto ($25), Brussels sprouts with lemon and Parmesan ($18), and brown butter chicken thighs with parsnip purée, squash, feta and kale.

Shrimp and Grits ($16): Appetizer-sized but packed with flavor. The potlikker sauce (brothy sauce from simmered greens), blackened shrimp and creamy cheddar grits are legit.

Shrimp and Grits with blackened prawns, cheddar grits, fried shishito peppers at the Grove Speakeasy Thursday, Oct. 9, 2025 in Penngrove. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Shrimp and Grits with blackened prawns, cheddar grits, fried shishito peppers at the Grove Speakeasy. Photographed Thursday, Oct. 9, 2025, in Penngrove. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

The Grove Lobster Mac with four cheese Mornay, cavatappi pasta, bread crumbs and bacon at the Grove Speakeasy Thursday, Oct. 9, 2025 in Penngrove. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — The Grove Lobster Mac with four cheese Mornay, cavatappi pasta, bread crumbs and bacon at the Grove Speakeasy. Photographed Thursday, Oct. 9, 2025, in Penngrove. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

The Grove Mac ($16): A creamy Mornay sauce with cheddar, goat cheese, mozzarella and Parmesan is excellent, with bits of bacon and crisp breadcrumbs. Add lobster ($12) for the full effect.

Seared Sole Dore ($34): Whether it’s halibut or sole, the dish delivers with a bright lemon butter sauce, mashed potatoes and garlic spinach. Classic, simple comfort food.

Oyster Po’Boy ($22, brunch only): The breaded and fried Drake’s Bay oysters are crisp and juicy, though the sandwich could benefit from less bread and a lighter hand on the toppings (lettuce, tomatoes and pickles). These oysters shine in the fritto misto, with less bread and more fried seafood.

Oyster Po’ Boy with fried Drakes Bay oysters, lettuce, pickles, tomatoes and remoulade with a Flapper’s Delight cocktail from the Grove Speakeasy Thursday, Oct. 9, 2025 in Penngrove. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Oyster Po’ Boy with fried Drakes Bay oysters, lettuce, pickles, tomatoes and remoulade with a Flapper’s Delight cocktail from the Grove Speakeasy. Photographed Thursday, Oct. 9, 2025, in Penngrove. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Grove Benedict ($26, brunch only): Two giant lobster claws top a lemony hollandaise, perfectly poached farm-fresh eggs, spinach and a fluffy English muffin.

Chicken and Waffles ($22, brunch only): The buttermilk fried chicken thighs are tender and juicy, while the sweet potato waffle and hot honey add contrast to the salty chicken.

Biscuits and Gravy ($20, brunch only): Vega makes a Southern-girl-approved biscuit, according to my very picky, very Southern friend, Taylor. High praise.

From the bar, from left, Whisky Business, The Black Wall Street and Bootlegger cocktails at the Grove Speakeasy Thursday, Oct. 9, 2025 in Penngrove. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — From the bar, from left, Whisky Business, The Black Wall Street and Bootlegger cocktails at the Grove Speakeasy. Photographed Thursday, Oct. 9, 2025, in Penngrove. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

House Cocktails ($15-$16): Creative cocktails like the Black Wall Street with Basil Hayden Bourbon, vermouth, black walnut liqueur and orange bitters ($16) and the Flapper’s Delight, with vodka, elderflower liqueur, lime, cucumber and basil ($15), are fun and flirty. But the quality can vary depending on the night and the bartender’s workload. A little practice (and some batching) could help.

Happy Hour: Great small bites and cocktail deals from 3-6 p.m. Monday through Friday.

The Pour House: The restaurant opens for coffee, espresso drinks and housemade pastries at 7 a.m. Monday through Friday and 8 a.m. Saturday and Sunday. Reservations recommended.

The Grove Speakeasy, 10056 Main St., Penngrove, 707-664-5916, thegrovespeakeasy.com

Celebrate Legendary Chef Jacques Pépin’s 90th Birthday in Wine Country

October 2025

By Heather Irwin

PASADENA, CALIFORNIA – MAY 03: Chef Jacques Pépin, Lifetime Achievment winner, at the 46th Annual Daytime Creative Arts Emmy Awards – Press Room at Pasadena Civic Center on May 03, 2019 in Pasadena, California. (Photo by Rodin Eckenroth/Getty Images)

A celebration dinner will be held Oct. 23 at TORC in Napa to honor Jacques Pépin’s 90th birthday. Both the legendary chef and his daughter, Claudine, are expected to attend.

The four-course dinner will be prepared by chefs Kyle Connaughton (SingleThread) and Sean O’Toole (TORC). Tickets are $1,750 per guest.

Additional Napa events include a reception and three-course dinner at the CIA at Copia ($750 per person), featuring more than a dozen local chefs. Pépin will also appear at Cyrus on Oct. 29 and The French Laundry on Nov. 1. Both events are sold out. More details at celebratejacques.org.

Jacques Pépin, right, world-renowned chef, with Chay Woers, the SIFF director of food and beverage, at the opening night party in the Cogir Backlot Tent on First Street East in Sonoma on Wednesday, March 23, 2022. (Robbi Pengelly/Index-Tribune)

Pad Kee Mao is served with chicken or beef at the Noodle Palace on Petaluma Hill Road in Santa Rosa, Dec. 23, 2010. (Crista Jeremiason / The Press Democrat)

FYI: Noodle Palace has relocated to 958 Santa Rosa Ave. in Santa Rosa, next door to Santa Rosa Seafood. The restaurant is open from 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. 707-528-1548, noodlepalacesantarosa.com

Do you have a hot restaurant or food tip? Email me at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com.

A $25 Salad? At Sonoma Pizza Co. in Forestville, It’s Worth It

October 2025

By Heather Irwin

The $25 salad at Sonoma Pizza Co. in Forestville. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

For as long as I can remember, salads have been reliably budget-friendly. As a senior member of the Girl Dinner Dining Out Society (a group I’ve entirely made up), my prepay day restaurant order often consisted of a large salad, maybe an appetizer, and the always-reliable free bread.

And the salad bar? A $5 food-pyramid fever dream, piled high with ranch dressing, sunflower seeds, croutons and shredded cheese with a few wilted leaves of lettuce buried somewhere beneath the rubble. Salad days were both literal and figurative in my early dining years.

So, when I spotted a $25 “tapas salad” on the menu at Forestville’s Sonoma Pizza Co. last week, it seemed borderline absurd. Then I remembered that their stunning beet and burrata salad was $18 back in 2022. First, I choked a little. Then I ordered it.

Sonoma Pizza Co. beet salad — Burrata with beets and strawberries at Sonoma Pizza Co. in Forestville. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)

It turned out to be one of the best salads I’ve had. And, yes, I would happily pay $25 for the privilege of eating it again.

Why? The ingredients were impeccable: thin curls of perfectly ripe honeydew melon and squares of sweet cantaloupe that hit that rare, elusive balance – neither too hard nor too soft, and bursting with flavor. End-of-the-season blackberries, freshly picked nasturtium blossoms, crushed Marcona almonds, crisp Journeyman Meat Co. pancetta and a drizzle of honey surrounded a perfect orb of burrata at the center, finished with a swirl of olive oil.

The salad haunts me. Was it truly the best I’ve ever had, or simply a ray of late-summer sunshine on an otherwise drizzly afternoon? Perhaps my shock over the price was softened by a concurrent lunch special: $15 for a slice of pizza and a side salad, a rare bargain by California standards. Or maybe my brain simply stalled at the concept of a giant ball of burrata paired with pancetta.

Clearly, a $20-plus salad isn’t an everyday indulgence. Until it is.

Last night, I ordered a $20 seasonal salad at Baci Cafe & Wine Bar in Healdsburg made with arugula, shaved fennel, dates, cantaloupe and endive. Not quite as transcendent as the Sonoma Pizza Co. salad, but still excellent — thoughtfully composed, beautifully presented and made with high-quality ingredients. (Watch for my Hidden Gem story on Baci in late October.)

Beet Salad by chef Shari Sarabi at Baci Cafe & Wine Bar in Healdsburg. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat, 2020) — Beet salad by chef Shari Sarabi at Baci Cafe & Wine Bar in Healdsburg. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat, 2020)

Is this a trend? A survey of recent menus revealed no shortage of salads priced at $18, $19 and $20 — each elevated by premium ingredients and restaurant-level finesse.

This is no longer the Round Table salad bar, which apparently has gone away, once $9.99 with a slice of pizza.

Then again, Spoonbar in Healdsburg recently launched a “Girl Dinner” happy hour: $20 gets you a Caesar salad, deviled eggs, fries and a martini. Now that’s a $20 salad I can support.

What’s your take on the rising price of salads? And what would it take for you to splurge on a $25 plate of greens? Email me at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com.

Sonoma Artist Rick Oginz Revives Jack London’s Dream Home in Detailed Watercolor

October 2025

By Nate Seltenrich

Artist Rick Oginz in his home studio in Sonoma. Photo taken on Friday, July 18, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

Rick Oginz’s house sits on a steep hill on the lowest slopes of the Mayacamas Mountains, rising from and overlooking the Valley of the Moon. It sits just high enough to attain a modest yet clear view of Sonoma Mountain on the other side. Over there, to the north, is Jack London State Historic Park and the ruins of Wolf House, the famed author’s ill-fated dream home that captured Oginz’s imagination and became the subject of more than 20 of his paintings over the course of five years. They recently exhibited inside the park’s House of Happy Walls Museum.

The House of Happy Walls, incidentally, was where London’s widow, Charmian, lived from 1935 until her death in 1952. She might’ve been living in Wolf House during that period after the author’s death in 1916 at the age of 40, except that their forever home — which was to include a sizable workshop and library — burned one night in 1913 just before it was completed, leaving behind only its massive stone walls.

Somewhat like London’s home was intended to, Oginz’s abode — which he moved to in 2020 after living and working in Los Angeles, Oakland, Toronto, and London — serves as a workshop, studio, and gallery.

Artist Rick Oginz works on a new project at the Sonoma Community Center in Sonoma on Monday, July 21, 2025. Oginz began making ceramics at the Sonoma Community Center after his March exhibition at the House of Happy Walls. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

If Oginz squints in the right direction he might imagine peering all the way across the valley, through the redwood canopy, and into what’s left of Wolf House. He didn’t move here just for an almost-view of an incinerated mansion. “I looked around for a house that would be close enough to San Francisco, and I found this,” he says, but there’s no denying his reverence for the site. “It was the high point of civilization but returned to nature immediately on completion. Its walls and arches reveal ambition that was denied.”

Beyond his aesthetic and symbolic interest in Wolf House, Oginz is a longtime admirer of London’s fiction, having read about a dozen of his books. “His overarching theme is the contrast between civilized and wild,” Oginz explains. “Like a dog becomes a wolf, or a wolf becomes a dog. And, so, the Wolf House, before our eyes, is returning to nature, with all the vegetation growing on it. In one of the fireplaces, there is a pretty large beehive, and you can see bees really active around it.”

His mixed-media renderings of different aspects and views of the Londons’ house on 22” by 30” watercolor paper combine bold, almost cartoonish color with simple, sketch-like linework that occasionally reveals every stroke or stipple of ink. It’s a divided approach the lifelong artist has used before, but that’s particularly well suited to Wolf House: subject and style both appear simultaneously unfinished and perfect as they are.

The ruins of Jack London’s Wolf House at Jack London State Historic Park captured the imagination of artist Rick Oginz. His pieces feature distinctive, detailed linework. (Rick Oginz)

In fact, the site is conflicted to its core, positioned at the intersection of past and present, dream and reality, home and ruin. “My house will be standing, act of God permitting, for a thousand years,” London wrote during its construction, a sentence that now reads more like an order than the hubristic prediction history has revealed it to be.

Oginz plays with this further by including steel braces and other supportive structures in his drawings, as well as the wooden and chain link fences that surround and protect Wolf House. This lets the viewer experience the site as Oginz did — or as would any member of the general public — and also captures its fragility.

The Wolf House works are thus documents that interpret and preserve the landmark at a specific point in time. The structure itself may not be standing in another 900 years — certainly not as it looks now — but perhaps Oginz’s renderings will, somewhere, in some digital cloud. So will his illustrations of architectural landmarks in other places he’s lived and worked: the Port of Oakland, Tribune Tower, and Bay Bridge; the Watts Towers in Los Angeles; the CN Tower in Toronto.

“Container Ship Underway” by Rick Oginz hangs on the wall of the artist’s home in Sonoma on Friday, July 18, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat) — “Container Ship Underway” by Rick Oginz hangs on the wall of the artist’s home in Sonoma. Photographed on Friday, July 18, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

The sculpture “Sum of the Greater Parts” created by Rick Oginz is on display in his home in Sonoma on Friday, July 18, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat) — The sculpture “Sum of the Greater Parts” created by Rick Oginz is on display in his home in Sonoma. Photographed on Friday, July 18, 2025. In some cases, Oginz brings to life three-dimensional designs he’d already drawn. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

His vast repertoire, dating to the late 1960s, covers many other subjects: industry, technology, transportation, science, biology, nature. He’s proficient in myriad mediums, methods, and materials, having practiced drawing and painting, sculpture and ceramics, wood and metalwork side-by-side for decades. In fact, after Oginz’s exhibition at the House of Happy Walls he began making ceramics at the Sonoma Community Center down the road — in some cases bringing to life three-dimensional designs he’d already drawn.

“My work is autobiographical and journalistic,” he says. “I react to my literal environment by representing it in graphic and/or sculptural form.” Oginz’s reactions to his external environment in turn make up his most intimate one, as the walls, floors, and shelves of the rooms and hallways of his home have become a de facto gallery, displaying a rotating selection of his works spanning much of his career. A framed piece from the Wolf House series is on the west wall, facing Sonoma Mountain.

Artist Rick Oginz works on a painting in his home studio in Sonoma on Friday, July 18, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat) — Artist Rick Oginz works on a painting in his home studio in Sonoma on Friday, July 18, 2025. Oginz spends hours on the fine, black linework that defines his style. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

New paintings by Rick Oginz depicting a winery under construction near his home hang on the wall of his home studio in Sonoma on Friday, July 18, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat) — New paintings by Rick Oginz depicting a winery under construction hang on the wall of his home studio in Sonoma. Photographed on Friday, July 18, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

Downstairs, Oginz’s drawing studio is both an archive and a workshop in itself. There, he spends hours on the fine, black linework that defines his style. Displayed on one wall is a series of paintings of his neighborhood’s landmarks, of sorts, depicted throughout the seasons: large, gnarled trees; rows of old vines; and a nearby wine estate under construction that, like Wolf House — and perhaps all of existence, seems in Oginz’s view to be perpetually incomplete.

“It looks very ominous to me, because you can’t really tell if it’s under construction or destruction,” he says. “It’s in that state of flux.”

Learn more at rickoginzart.com.

Napa Valley’s Rutherford Hill Offers ‘Elevated’ Wine Tastings — Literally

October 2025

By Tina Caputo

Rebecca Tiffany, left, Susie Smith, Susan Roth, and Joy Tiffany taste wine on the outdoor patio at Rutherford Hill Winery in Rutherford on Friday, October 17, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

Rutherford Hill launched more than five decades ago, when Napa Valley’s fine wine scene was just getting off the ground. Now, after an outdoor makeover last year, the winery sports a multilevel terrace with multimillion-dollar views. (And yes, Miles, we are drinking some $!@*#-ing Merlot!)

The story

It all begins with Chateau Souverain. Winemaker Lee Stewart founded the winery on Howell Mountain in 1944, then sold it to the Pillsbury Company in 1970. Two years later, Pillsbury expanded Chateau Souverain, establishing Souverain of Rutherford. By 1976, the “poppin’ fresh dough” folks wanted out of the wine business, so they sold Souverain of Rutherford to Bill and Lila Jaeger as part of an investment group. They renamed it Rutherford Hill.

The new owners saw a bright future for Bordeaux-style reds in Napa Valley, so they chose Merlot as the winery’s focus. Rutherford Hill was among the first wineries in the region to bottle a varietally labeled Merlot, starting with the 1976 vintage, which positioned the winery for success during the variety’s heyday in the 1980s.

Rutherford Hill wines — A selection of wines from Rutherford Hill Winery in Rutherford on Friday, Oct. 17, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

Rutherford Hill began a new chapter in 1996. That year, the legendary Anthony Terlato — the head of a Chicago-based family of wine importers, marketers and distributors — purchased the winery. (This was their first venture into winery ownership; the family would go on to buy several more wineries around the world, including Chimney Rock in Napa Valley and Sanford in Santa Barbara County.)

In the early 2000s, Terlato set about revitalizing Rutherford Hill. He invested millions to improve the producer’s winemaking facilities and equipment, and the efforts paid off. Terlato died in 2020, and his son Bill continues on as Terlato Wine Group’s CEO. Today, still specializing in Merlot, Rutherford Hill farms 110 acres of estate vineyards across Napa Valley.

The vibe

Randy and Carolyn Russell listen to Susan Whitcher talk about wines in the Rutherford Hill Winery cave lounge in Rutherford on Friday, October 17, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat) — Randy and Carolyn Russell listen to Susan Whitcher talk about wines in the Rutherford Hill Winery cave lounge in Rutherford on Friday, Oct. 17, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

If you’ve ever dined at Auberge du Soleil, you’ve nearly made it to Rutherford Hill. Just keep driving past the resort and you’ll soon spot the original redwood winery building as you enter the winery gates. On your right is the gorgeous new multilevel terrace and visitor reception station — unveiled last fall. Tastings also take place inside Rutherford Hill’s mile-long cave, which now includes a cozy lounge. The extensive outdoor remodel is part of the winery’s efforts to elevate — literally and figuratively — its winemaking program and visitor experiences.

On the palate

Bottles of Merlot wines at Rutherford Hill Winery in Rutherford on Friday, October 17, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat) — Bottles of Merlot wines at Rutherford Hill Winery in Rutherford on Friday, Oct. 17, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

Former Cakebread Cellars winemaker Stephanie Jacobs joined Rutherford Hill in March, taking over for Michael Coode. If you’ve forgotten how good well-made Merlot can be, the Legacy Tasting ($95) offers an array of lush reminders — with each representing a different Napa Valley district. The elegant 2021 Stags Leap Merlot ($70) has a dark fruit profile (think plums), with vanilla and toasty oak notes. The 2021 Carneros Merlot ($70) has an appealing brightness and notes of dark red fruits. If Merlot doesn’t ring your bell, the complex 2024 AJT Sauvignon Blanc ($35) is a juicy option with tropical fruit and apple hints.

The winery also offers a View of the Valley tasting ($75) of five current releases, and cave tastings that range from a walk-and-taste experience ($95) to a deluxe ATV tour and sit-down tasting in the fancy cave lounge ($195).

Beyond the bottle

“Floating” tasting decks offer views of Napa Valley at Rutherford Hill Winery in Rutherford on Friday, October 17, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat) — “Floating” tasting decks offer views of Napa Valley at Rutherford Hill Winery in Rutherford on Friday, Oct. 17, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

Cheese and charcuterie board at Rutherford Hill Winery in Rutherford on Friday, October 17, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat) — Cheese and charcuterie board at Rutherford Hill Winery in Rutherford on Friday, Oct. 17, 2025. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

The views are incredible from just about every vantage point on the winery terrace, but they’re especially impressive on the private “Skyloft” decks that seem to float 400 feet above the valley floor. When Rutherford Hill launched its deluxe Skyloft Experience last year, it added a $250 per group “rental fee” to the cost of a tasting. The price has since come down — a sign of the economic times? — to $130 per guest, which includes a tasting with a cheese and charcuterie board. The loungey setting is intimate and the panoramas are spectacular.

Open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily.

Rutherford Hill Winery, 200 Rutherford Hill Road, Rutherford. 707-963-1871, rutherfordhill.com

Tina Caputo is a wine, food, and travel journalist who contributes to Sonoma magazine, SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, Northern California Public Media, KQED, and more. Follow her on Bluesky at @winebroad.bsky.social, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.

The Lodge at Bodega Bay Named No. 1 Hotel in the World

October 2025

By Maci Martell

The pool at The Lodge at Bodega Bay. (Travis Watts/The Lodge at Bodega Bay)

Travel and lifestyle magazine Condé Nast Traveler recently announced its 38th annual Readers’ Choice Awards winners — and a familiar locale rose to the top. For the second consecutive year, The Lodge at Bodega Bay came in at No. 1 on its list of the 50 best hotels in the world.

The awards survey aggregated the top-rated resorts, spas, trains, cruise lines and more from around the world, based on a total of 757,109 votes from Condé Nast readers. In addition to being named the best hotel in the world, The Lodge at Bodega Bay also clinched the title of No. 1 hotel in Northern California.

Award déjà vu

For travel buffs in the know, the wins for the coastal hotel may feel like déjà vu. The Lodge at Bodega Bay ranked as the No. 1 hotel in the world and No. 1 hotel in Northern California in Condé Nast’s 2024 Readers’ Choice Awards. The Lodge was featured in the annual awards before then, too, in 2017, 2018, 2019 and 2023.

“Receiving this extraordinary recognition for the second year in a row is incredibly humbling and it speaks volumes about the remarkable team we have at The Lodge,” said Jason Reiplinger, managing director at The Lodge at Bodega Bay, in a recent press release.

“This award belongs to our staff, whose passion and commitment shine through in every guest interaction,” Reiplinger said. “It’s their genuine care and pride in showcasing the beauty of Bodega Bay and the Sonoma Coast that makes guests feel like they’ve discovered a home away from home, and that’s what this recognition is really all about.”

The Condé Nast listing for The Lodge at Bodega Bay cites it as a “laid-back getaway” on the Sonoma Coast. Here’s all you need to know about the award-winning hotel to start planning your trip:

The accommodations

Captains Quarters room at The Lodge at Bodega Bay. (Katie Newburn/The Lodge at Bodega Bay)

The Lodge at Bodega Bay guest room — Captains Quarters room at The Lodge at Bodega Bay. (Katie Newburn/The Lodge at Bodega Bay)

The Lodge at Bodega Bay features 83 guest rooms and suites along with a pool, spa, gym, bocce court, fireside lounge and in-house restaurant. In-room amenities include complimentary Wi-Fi, a 55-inch or larger LCD television, “Sleep Sound” sound machine, plush bathrobes and slippers, 100% cotton luxury towels and more. Most rooms have fireplaces and private balconies with bay views.

The heated pool and hot tub overlook Doran Beach, a short walk from the hotel. Two spa rooms are open every day, offering several tranquil massage, facial and body treatments. Fitness classes are also available for all experience levels and include yoga, Pilates and guided meditation.

Crudité and young lettuce salad at Drakes Sonoma Coast, located in The Lodge at Bodega Bay. (The Lodge at Bodega Bay)

A firepit at The Lodge at Bodega Bay. (Travis Watts/The Lodge at Bodega Bay) — A firepit with a Valley Ford Creamery cheese and charcuterie board from the Fireside Lounge at The Lodge at Bodega Bay. (Travis Watts/The Lodge at Bodega Bay)

Guests at The Lodge at Bodega Bay can enjoy sustainable, locally sourced cuisine at Drakes Sonoma Coast. Great fresh eats include omelets and Benedicts made with local eggs; cheese and charcuterie boards featuring Valley Ford Creamery cheeses; Manila clams made with Sonoma Chardonnay; and pan-seared local black cod with couscous. The more casual Drakes Fireside Lounge is open daily with seasonal bites to enjoy indoors or by the outdoor firepits.

Rates start at $399 per night. 103 Coast Highway One, Bodega Bay, 707-875-3525, lodgeatbodegabay.com

More local wins

Harvest Inn hotel — Harvest Inn in St. Helena ranked as the No. 2 best hotel in Northern California and No. 15 best hotel in the world. (Harvest Inn)

The Lodge at Bodega Bay is part of the Menlo Park-based Woodside Hospitality Group. Other hotels from the Woodside Collection also appeared in this year’s Readers’ Choice Awards, including St. Helena’s Harvest Inn (No. 2 hotel in Northern California and No. 15 in the world), Napa Valley Lodge (No. 8 hotel in Northern California) and Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa (No. 20 hotel in Northern California).

Similar to last year’s awards, Sonoma and Napa counties dominated the top hotels in the Northern California category. In addition to the Woodside properties, local hotels include North Block Hotel in Yountville (No. 3), Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa in Sonoma (No. 7), Vintage House at The Estate Yountville (No. 10), Alila Napa Valley in St. Helena (No. 11), Hotel Villagio at The Estate Yountville (No. 12), The Madrona in Healdsburg (No. 14), SingleThread Farm-Restaurant-Inn in Healdsburg (No. 15), the Farmhouse Inn in Forestville (No. 17), Stanly Ranch, Auberge Collection in Napa (No. 18) and Auberge du Soleil, Auberge Collection in Rutherford (No. 19).

Where To Celebrate Día de Los Muertos in Sonoma County

October 2025

By Maci Martell

A Día de los Muertos ofrenda, or altar, for a Día de los Muertos fiesta at Keller Estate in Petaluma. (Brittany Bennett / Julep Productions)

Día de Los Muertos, or Day of the Dead, is a historic Mexican holiday that celebrates the lives of loved ones who have died. The holiday is traditionally observed on Nov. 1-2.

Celebrations typically involve altars (called ofrendas) that honor the dead with their photos and favorite foods. Other Día de Los Muertos customs include traditional feasts, festive face painting, sugar skull decorating and gifting, and visiting cemeteries to honor dead loved ones at their grave, which may be decorated with candles and marigolds (also called cempazúchitl).

For those who would like to celebrate Día de Los Muertos with community members, here’s where to go don your best skull face in Sonoma County.

This roundup was compiled with the help of previous reporting in The Press Democrat by Raquel Issenberg of La Prensa Sonoma. Lea su versión completa en español aquí.

Día de los Muertos at the museum — Sugar skulls decorated with icing sit and dry during the Día de los Muertos family day at the Museum of Sonoma County in Santa Rosa on Sunday, Oct. 21, 2018. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

Sugar skull workshop for kids, through October

Decorate sugar skulls with Elsa Tapia, hosted by the Sonoma County Library Network, throughout October. Open to grades K-6. Free. All Sonoma County libraries, events.sonomalibrary.org

Museum of Sonoma County Día de los Muertos Exhibition, through Nov. 2

The Museum of Sonoma County’s 29th annual Día de los Muertos exhibit, which opened Sept. 13 and runs through Nov. 2, explores traditional and contemporary artistic expressions of Day of the Dead. The exhibit features artists such as Jesus Bravo, Liz Camino-Byers, Nathan Gomez, Cristina M. Briano and Ruben Guzman. The exhibit also includes a community altar that visitors can contribute to. 425 Seventh St., Santa Rosa, 707-579-1500, museumsc.org

Ofrenda Exhibit in Petaluma, through Nov. 2

Eight artists showcase ofrendas and artwork commemorating the holiday, on display from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. through Nov. 2 at Petaluma Historical Library & Museum. Includes poster and T-shirt designs. Free. 20 Fourth St., Petaluma, visitpetaluma.com/event/el-dia-de-los-muertos-2

LumaFest in Petaluma — Celeste Thompson, 7, of Santa Rosa, looks approvingly at the sugar skull she finished decorating during LumaFest at the Santa Rosa Junior College campus in Petaluma, on Saturday, Oct. 19, 2019. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

LumaFest, Oct. 18

Santa Rosa Junior College’s annual open house and Día de los Muertos celebration will be held from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., Oct. 18, on the Petaluma campus. The free, family-friendly festival will include ofrendas, lectures, live performances, food trucks, club and community booths, science shows and art activities, such as skull decorating. Learn more at lumafest.santarosa.edu. 680 Sonoma Mountain Parkway, Petaluma, 707-778-2415, petaluma.santarosa.edu

Block Party at the Museum of Sonoma County, Oct. 18

Performances, art, food and a lowrider parade will take place from noon to 4 p.m., Oct. 18, down Seventh Street in Santa Rosa. Free. 425 Seventh St., Santa Rosa, museumsc.org/ddlm2025

Santa Rosa Día de los Muertos, Oct. 18

Altars, live music, face painting, more than 40 vendors, authentic Mexican food and a Cantina Garden will be among the attractions at a Día de los Muertos celebration from 1-6 p.m., Oct. 18, at Old Courthouse Square in Santa Rosa. Free. 600 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, cloverdalecreative.org/event-details/dia-de-los-muertos-celebration-santa-rosa

Día de los Muertos Movie Night, Oct. 24

Sonoma’s La Luz Center will partner with California State Parks for a Día de los Muertos-themed movie night from 5:30-9:30 p.m., Oct. 24, at the Sonoma Barracks. The event will include a screening of the 2014 film “The Book of Life” along with food, music and activities for the family. Reserve a spot on Eventbrite. Free. Sonoma Barracks, 36 E. Spain St., Sonoma, 707-938-5131, laluzcenter.org

Healdsburg Día de Muertos, Oct. 26

Nonprofit Corazón Healdsburg and the city of Healdsburg will host a Día de los Muertos celebration from noon to 6 p.m., Oct. 26, on the Healdsburg Plaza. The free event will include a community altar, live music performances, a classic car show, face painting, games, crafts and other activities for children. Healdsburg Plaza, corazonhealdsburg.org

An ofrenda, an altar honoring the dead, during the Día de Muertos at the Plaza in Healdsburg, on Sunday, October 30, 2022. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat) — An ofrenda, an altar honoring the dead, during the Día de Muertos at the Plaza in Healdsburg, on Sunday, Oct. 30, 2022. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)

Las Cafeteras – Hasta La Muerte, Oct. 30

Los Angeles band Las Cafeteras will bring a Day of the Dead-inspired show blending music, dance and storytelling starting at 7:30 p.m., Oct. 30, at Sonoma State University’s Green Music Center. Tickets range from $31-$81. 1801 E. Cotati Ave., Rohnert Park, gmc.sonoma.edu/las-cafeteras

Annual Santa Rosa Día de los Muertos, Nov. 1-2

This event, from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Nov. 1-2, honors ancestors with community altars and celebrates cultural heritage through art and connection. Free. Old Courthouse Square, 600 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, santarosametrochamber.com/events/annual-santa-rosa-día-de-los-muertos-2025

Sonoma Plaza Día de Muertos, Nov. 1

Music, altars, food, face painting, art vendors and Cantina Garden from 3-8 p.m., Nov. 1, on the Sonoma Plaza. Free. 453 First St. E., Sonoma, eventeny.com/events/dia-de-muertos-celebration-sonoma-plaza-20380

Windsor Día de Muertos, Nov. 1

Procession, Pomo and Aztec dancers, mariachi, children’s activities, artisan market and lowrider show from 4-8 p.m., Nov. 1, on the Windsor Town Green. Free. 701 McClelland Drive, Windsor, somoswindsor.org/windsor-muertos

Petaluma Día de los Muertos Procession, Nov. 1

Community procession from 4-10 p.m., Nov. 1, from St. Vincent de Paul Rectory to Petaluma Museum, ending with a folklórico performance. Free. 35 Liberty St., Petaluma, bit.ly/petaluma-procession-2025

Attendees watching Aztec dancers before the start of El Día de los Muertos candlelight process at the St. Vincent de Paul Church in Petaluma on Saturday, Oct. 26, 2024. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)

Día de los Muertos Fiesta at Keller Estate, Nov. 1

Keller Estate will host a Día de los Muertos fiesta from 5-7:30 p.m., Nov. 1, in Petaluma. The event will include a community ofrenda, traditional music, Mexican cuisine and estate wines. $60 per person. 5875 Lakeville Highway, Petaluma, 707-765-2117, kellerestate.com

Sonoma Community Center Día de Muertos, Nov. 1

Kids’ activities, altar lighting, folklórico performance and free food from 5:30-7 p.m., Nov. 1, at the Sonoma Community Center. Free. 276 E. Napa St., Sonoma, sonomacommunitycenter.org/dia-de-muertos

Día de los Muertos at La Luz, Nov. 3

La Luz Center will host its annual Día de los Muertos celebration starting at 5:30 p.m., Nov. 3, in Sonoma. The event will include food, live music, Quetzalen dancing, face painting and other activities. Free. La Luz Center, 17560 Greger St., Sonoma, 707-938-5131, laluzcenter.org

18 of the Best Pasta Dishes in Sonoma County

October 2025

By Heather Irwin

Spaghetti & Sunday Red Sauce with roasted onion, garlic, basil and San Marzano tomatoes from Acre Pasta, Friday, May 30, 2025, in Sebastopol’s Barlow District. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

I can’t remember when pasta became a bad word, but it’s time to welcome back a good plate of tagliatelle and step away from the Lacinato kale and spaghetti squash.

Like forever.

Like most other delicious things, pasta has gotten a bad rap after spending decades as the base of the USDA’s food pyramid, along with bread, cereal and rice. Remember those halcyon days when we didn’t know better?

But even moderation needs to be taken in moderation. Here are some of our favorite pasta dishes that make every calorie count.

Read on below for some top Sonoma County pastas for those cheat days. Click through the above gallery for a sneak peek.

These newcomers are all about pasta

Lumache al Pesto with spring pea pesto, morel mushrooms and aged parmesan from Stella Wednesday, March 26, 2025, in Kenwood. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Unique Pastas – Stella

Stella takes a deep dive into lesser-known regional Italian pasta shapes like Roman tonnarelli (spaghetti’s chunkier cousin), Florentine creste di gallo (ruffled rooster’s crest), rigatoncini (tiny, ridged tubes) that are popular in southern Italy, or tagliatelle (ribbons) from the Emilia-Romagna region. Served al dente — not too soft or too hard — you’ll finally understand why Italians consider pasta part of their national identity. 9049 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-801-8043, stellakenwood.com

Spaghetti & Sunday Red Sauce – Acre Pasta

The research and development that went into Acre Pasta’s spaghetti and Sunday red sauce may be NASA-level, but its simplicity is the real magic. Rather than relying on meat, Acre concentrates the juice from canned tomatoes with fennel seed, adding chopped tomatoes at the end. Perfection. 6751 McKinley St. at The Barlow, Sebastopol, 707-329-6734, acrepasta.com

Cocoa Trifoglio on the Dry Creek Kitchen pasta tasting menu from chef Shane McAnelly. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Pasta Tasting Menu – Dry Creek Kitchen

There are more than 300 identified pasta shapes in Italy, each with a unique history, birthplace and use — from cheese-filled tubes to ruffled ribbons that grip sauce. Chef Shane McAnelly of Dry Creek Kitchen pays a delicious tribute to his favorites on the restaurant’s six-course pasta tasting menu. 317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-431-0330, drycreekkitchen.com

Creste di Gallo Pomodoro – Folia Bar & Kitchen

Dry Creek Kitchen’s sister restaurant, Folia Bar & Kitchen at the new Appellation resort in Healdsburg, does a Creste di gallo Pomodoro, cock’s comb-shaped pasta with crisp guanciale, orange tomato and sweet corn that’s outstanding. 101 Dovetail Lane, Healdsburg, 707-723-2130, foliabarandkitchen.com

Creste di gallo Pomodoro, cock’s comb-shaped pasta with crisp guanciale, orange tomato and sweet corn. at Folia at Appellation in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine) — Creste di gallo Pomodoro, cock’s comb-shaped pasta with crisp guanciale, orange tomato and sweet corn at Folia at Appellation in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

Classic favorites

Lasagna Bolognese – Portico

Crepe-thin layers of pasta with ragu, béchamel sauce and Parmesan cheese. Also available in a vegetarian version. 100 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-888-9136, porticosocialfood.com

Ragu Bolognese with Tagliatelle – Portico

The praises have been sung. Thick strands of housemade pasta hold onto the chunks of carrots and green pepper, with ground beef and pork taking center stage. Portions are reasonable — neither too much nor too little. 100 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-888-9136, porticosocialfood.com

Pasta Bolognese at Portico in Sebastopol — Pasta Bolognese at Portico restaurant in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

Pappardelle Pasta with Saffron Cream – Portico

Extra-wide strips of fresh pasta bathed in golden saffron cream are precisely as good as they sound. 100 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-888-9136, porticosocialfood.com

Cacio e Pepe – Golden Bear Station

Cacio e pepe is a deceptively tricky dish to master and a bellwether dish for me. Chef Joshua Smookler gets it so right, elevating the pasta with seven different kinds of pepper, giving it a spicy punch that lingers on the tongue. 8445 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, goldenbearstation.com

Cacio e Pepe with bucatini, seven peppers and pecorino from the Golden Bear Station Thursday, January 11, 2023 on Highway 12 in Kenwood. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat) — Cacio e pepe with bucatini, seven peppers and pecorino from the Golden Bear Station in Kenwood. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Short rib agnolotti pasta from Monti's in Santa Rosa — Short rib agnolotti from Monti’s in Santa Rosa. (Monti’s)

Short Rib Agnolotti – Monti’s

The recently updated menu now includes freshly made pasta, including Lemon Tagliatelle with Dungeness crab and buckwheat pasta with mushroom ragout. We’re especially fond of the hearty short rib agnolotti with fresh horseradish. 714 Village Court, Santa Rosa, 707-568-4404, montismv.com

Seasonal Pasta – Diavola

We could rave about spaghettini with pork cheek ragu or linguini with Manila clams and uni, but what’s so special about this far-flung trattoria is the always-changing seasonal menu. Just order whatever sounds good — you won’t be disappointed. Chef/owner Dino Bugica is the real deal, and his housemade pasta is consistently one of my favorites in Sonoma County. 21021 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-814-0111, diavolapizzeria.com

Seasonal Dungeness crab and lemon pasta at Geyserville's Diavola restaurant. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine) — Seasonal Dungeness crab and lemon pasta at Geyserville’s Diavola restaurant. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

Lasagna from L'oro di Napoli in Santa Rosa — The enormous Lasagna with a Stagionale salad of arugula, roasted butternut squash puree, sliced almonds, topped with pecorino cheese, in an orange mustard and extra-virgin olive oil dressing from L’oro di Napoli in downtown Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Lasagna – L’oro Di Napoli

Pizza is their bread and butter, but a mile-high slice of lasagna with Béchamel is a must-try. 629 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-541-6394; 208 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, lorodinapolica.com

Wild Boar Gnocchi – Risibisi

Housemade gnocchi with braised wild boar is a specialty of this Petaluma restaurant. Risotto is also a favorite. 154 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-766-7600, risibisirestaurant.com

Risibisi Italian restaurant in Petaluma — Housemade gnocchi with a wild boar ragu at Risibisi in Petaluma on Monday, July 30, 2012. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

Cucina Paradiso, Petaluma: Ravioli di anatra. — Ravioli di anatra at Cucina Paradiso in Petaluma. (Jeff Kan Lee/The Press Democrat)

Ravioli di Anatra – Cucina Paradiso

Every pasta is a winner at this longtime Petaluma Italian restaurant, but this housemade ravioli is filled with roast duck in sundried tomato, pine nut and basil sauce. 114 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-782-1130, cucinaparadisopetaluma.com

Pasta Sauce – Cafe Citti

Pasta is great, but without the right sauce, it’s just flour and water. The tiny cafe offers 14 sauces made from scratch, including Italian workhorses like Bolognese, marinara, pesto, Alfredo, white clam and puttanesca. Dine in, or pick up (and pretend it’s your own). 2792 Fourth St., Santa Rosa. 707-523-2690, cafecitti.com

Penne alla Boscaiola at Cafe Citti in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Gnudi with butternut squash and sage at Grata Restaurant in Windsor. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Ricotta Gnudi – Grata

Lighter and fluffier than gnocchi, these little clouds of ricotta come with brown butter, butternut squash and greens. Love. 186 Windsor River Road, Windsor, 707-620-0508, gratawindsor.com

Rigatoni – Ca’Bianca

Simple, but delicious, Ca’Bianca’s rigatoni is served with Italian sausage, peas, mushrooms, tomato and cream sauce. 835 Second St., Santa Rosa, 707-542-5800, cabianca.com

Ca'Bianca's Rigatoni served with Italian sausage, peas, mushrooms, tomato and cream sauce. (Crista Jeremiason/The Press Democrat) — Ca’Bianca’s Rigatoni served with Italian sausage, peas, mushrooms, tomato and cream sauce. (Crista Jeremiason/The Press Democrat)

Ten-layer lasagna at Catelli's in Geyserville. (Chris Hardy/for Sonoma Magazine) — Ten-layer lasagna at Catelli’s in Geyserville. (Chris Hardy/for Sonoma Magazine)

Lasagna – Catelli’s

No question, hands down the thinnest layers of pasta with Richard’s meat sauce and plenty of cheese. A crispy top makes this such a decadent treat. 21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-857-3471, mycatellis.com

Spaghetti alla Bolognese – Baci Cafe & Wine Bar

A neighborhood favorite that locals swear by. Fresh pasta is made daily. 336 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-8111, bacicafeandwinebar.com