Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are Sonoma County’s claims to fame, but with the region’s vast acreage and diverse microclimates, it’s also a terrific place to grow dozens of other wine grapes. At Unti Vineyards in Dry Creek Valley, visitors can explore wines made from a multitude of interesting varieties more commonly found in Italy and southern France.
The story
When George Unti purchased land in Dry Creek Valley in the early ‘90s, he didn’t intend to start a winery. The property did include some Syrah and Zinfandel vines, though, and George’s son Mick happened to work as a national sales manager for Kendall-Jackson.
The father-son duo started making wine together for fun, and after a few vintages as home winemakers, they launched Unti Vineyards in 1997.
The following year, the Untis bought a new property just north of the original Healdsburg site and started planting. As avid fans of wines from Italy and southern France, they opted for varieties not commonly found in Dry Creek Valley — grapes like Grenache Noir, Dolcetto and Picpoul.
Today, the Unti estate hosts 16 grape varieties, including experimental blocks of Falanghina and Biancolella.
The vibe
Unti is strictly a stand-at-the-bar affair, as in Ye Olde 1990s, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t a welcoming place to visit.
The tasting room is small and intimate, yet it feels spacious thanks to a vaulted ceiling and windows that face out onto the vineyard and let in plenty of sunlight.
Step up to one of the tasting counters, select six wines you’d like to sample from a dozen or so options, and the fun begins.
If you need help choosing among unfamiliar varieties — and there are lots of them — not to worry. The unpretentious Unti staff is great at explaining the styles and flavor profiles of the wines, and they enjoy sharing the stories behind them.
On the palate
Exploration is the name of the game at Unti. Be sure to try the 2023 Cuvée Blanc ($38), a blend of Vermentino, Grenache Blanc, and Picpoul. The wine is floral and citrusy, with a rich mouthfeel. The 2022 Barbera ($35) is deep and dark, with enough acidity to save it a seat at the dinner table. The 2023 Rosé ($65 for a beautifully packaged magnum) is an Unti classic, made from Grenache Noir and Mourvedre. Also be on the lookout for a new vintage of the sold-out Sangiovese, due for release in late January, and a spring Fiano. Tastings cost $25, waived with any bottle purchase.
Beyond the bottle
Dry Creek General Store is a mere two-minute drive from Unti, so it’s practically mandatory to stop in for excellent sandwiches, prepared salads and other gourmet goodies. The local historic landmark now features new parking spaces, and yes, the funky adjoining bar has reopened — saddle barstools and all.
Unti Vineyards, 4202 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. Open every day by appointment. untivineyards.com
Tina Caputo is a wine, food and travel writer whose work has appeared in numerous publications, including SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, HuffPost and Sonoma magazine. Follow Tina on Twitter @winebroad, view her website at tinacaputo.com and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.