Page 171 – Sonoma Magazine

Brand New Mid-Century Marvel for Sale in Sonoma

June 2022

By Karen Kizer

A masterful new home built in up-to-date, mid-century style is available in Sonoma. The four-bedroom, four-bath, 4,080-square-foot home situated on a hilltop overlooking the Sonoma Valley and San Francisco is available for $9.95 million.

The home’s design by San Francisco-based firm Klopf Architecture embraces mid-century modern tastes to the fullest. This popular design preference doesn’t seem to be going anywhere given our love of seamless indoor/outdoor spaces and the tranquil aesthetic modern designs can offer. Eichler values are fully intact in this design: floor-to-ceiling windows, flat roofs, visible beams and squeaky clean lines with no ornamentation. But a lack of ornamentation doesn’t mean a lack of sumptuousness.

White oak cabinets and Calacatta marble provide rich texture in the kitchen. (Paul Rollins)

The design impact manages to be both strong and subtle. A simply designed cabinet gains its warmth through the rich white oak it’s made from. Calacatta and statuary marbles provide natural but bold accents in the bathrooms and kitchen. Floor-to-ceiling windows just can’t fail on this lot. The sky views at the top of the hill have a dreamy up-in-the-clouds feel.

Staging by Los Angeles-based Meridith Baer Home, with the input of listing agent Ginger Martin, follows through on understated design to achieve maximum beauty. Modern furniture — like armchairs in playful round shapes — adheres strictly to a white, black or tonal palette. Color is used with extreme restraint. There are ribbons of pale blue in a large abstract painting. Produce in dishes successfully serve as the color accents in the single-tone kitchen. The home provides a perfect example of how subtlety can really stun.

Outside, an infinity edge pool keeps the “invisible” aesthetic going. Three repeating wave-shaped lawn chairs with white and gray pillows add a sense of graceful movement and discipline. It’s a bit of an echo to what the architect calls “a rhythmic post and beam design” — referring to the repeating design element along the rear exterior of the home.

Outside, an infinity edge pool keeps the “invisible” aesthetic going. (Paul Rollins)

Landscape by San Francisco-based Arterra Landscape Architects consists of a few plantings chosen for water conservation and fire resistance, according to Martin. The design allows the natural rocky setting to take center stage, while bits of greenery have been added for a subtle sense of lushness. A few rocky outcroppings frame the views and take on the presence of abstract art.

The design takeaway is strong in this home. The concept of “less is more” is very present. It isn’t minimalist, but rather a thoughtful layering of well-designed pieces, exquisite materials and a few playful elements. Sky views don’t hurt either.

This home at 2979 Wood Valley Road is listed by Ginger Martin and Matthew Joseph of Sotheby’s International Realty, 1229 Adams St., St. Helena, 415-516-3939, ginger@gingermartin.com, gingermartin.com.

Petaluma Home Remodeled in an Easy-Breezy Modern Style

June 2022

By Karen Kizer

A sizable home and ADU (2,950 square feet and 1,200 square feet, respectively) with a super-modern meets beachy style is for sale in Petaluma. The dwellings — which together have four bedrooms and four bathrooms — have been renovated into a contemporary style that veers from some of the lovable modern trends we’re seeing right now. It isn’t farmhouse, and it’s not classic mid-century either. The original home was built in 1995 and has been reimagined for living and relaxing according to today’s tastes.

The home has a simple style with the ever-popular whited-out look to give off the calm feel people are craving in today’s busy and visually noisy world. But the tranquility-forward aesthetic has some rich color thrown in. Many stained wood elements are included, such as flooring, bookshelves, kitchen cabinets and furniture.

Elements like aqua-colored dining chairs and multi-colored textiles add vibrant color to the stained woods and white walls of the ADU. (Rob Sullivan – Vanguard Properties)

There are brilliant touches of bright color, too: deep blue tile in the ADU’s kitchen, orange umbrellas outside and a welcome sea-foam-colored paint in the bathroom (hello, ’90s). These elements come together to make an inspired and soothing environment.

When you learn that the homeowners lived in Hawaii, it makes sense that this home would have those satisfying beachy vibes. But there are no clichés here. It’s not all starfish pillows or “sandy feet” signs. The home just borrows the pretty palette of the oceanside for its subdued tropical appearance.

An ADU sits on a second story above the garage offering panoramic views. The design elements are not an afterthought. Details like aqua-colored dining chairs and multi-colored textiles add vibrant color to the stained woods and white walls.

The home’s sparse and tranquil vibes are carried outside to a stone patio with a simple rectangular pool and hot tub combo. (Rob Sullivan – Vanguard Properties)

The sparse and tranquil vibes are carried outside to a simple rectangular pool and spa combo. The bottom of the pool is lined with pebbles that provide a sensory treat for world-weary feet. The black pebble bottom absorbs temperatures well, according to listing agent Rob Sullivan, allowing the pool to heat on its own. Plants grow separated in “islands” — a disciplined look that’s modern both visually and in terms of fire resistance.

The homeowners tended to a variety of details, from a fire-safe steel roof to super-convenient motorized blinds.

All of this living space is priced at $3.2 million.

For more information, contact listing agent Rob Sullivan with Vanguard Properties, 151 Petaluma Blvd. South, Suite 137, Petaluma, 707-772-9171, vanguardproperties.com/agent-17011-Rob-Sullivan.php.

25 Favorite Hikes in Sonoma County

June 2022

By Sonoma Magazine Staff

Peri Olsson of Santa Rosa takes her dog Teddy on a walk at Taylor Mountain Regional Park and Open Space Preserve in Santa Rosa. (Alvin Jornada/The Press Democrat)

Grab your backpack, fill up the water jug and lace up those boots. It’s time to take a hike! Sonoma County boasts thousands of acres of diverse park land, from cool redwoods and oak woodlands to mountainous terrain and open grassy meadows.

Remember to use caution in Sonoma’s wildlands — stay a safe distance from the edge of steep mountain cliffs and coastal bluffs, which can erode, as well as wild animals, which may feel defensive of their offspring and territory. Contact respective ranger stations for park rules and accessibility accommodations.

Santa Rosa

Taylor Mountain Regional Park: If you’re looking for an Instagram-worthy hike, we recommend the Sky Lupine Trail to the Taylor Mountain summit. Starting from the Kawana Terrace Entrance, this moderate 2.3-mile trail (one way) traverses up a 1,000-foot hill and, in spring, past a variety of wildflowers. Lupine, tidy tips, woodland stars, poppies and the golden curlicues of fiddleneck make for great photos. The views at the summit aren’t bad either. Plus, the park recently opened up an 8-mile network of new trails. Open from 7 a.m. to sunset; $8 parking fee. 2080 Kawana Terrace. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Spring Lake Regional Park: Spring Lake is perfect for hikers of all abilities, with 10 miles of trails linking to Trione-Annadel State Park and Howarth Park. Family-friendly trails can end with picnic and play at Howarth Park, and hikers looking for a more intense trek can tackle the Annadel trails. Throughout the year, the changing colors of the surrounding landscape reflect off the water, creating a mirroring effect. Open from 7 a.m. to sunset. Parking is $12 in summer and $8 the rest of the year. 393 Violetti Road. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Trione-Annadel State Park: Colloquially referred to as “Annadel,” this park is Santa Rosa’s go-to spot for casual and serious hikers alike. A simple Sunday stroll at Spring Lake may just turn into a four-hour excursion through Annadel’s over 45 miles of trails. The 1.2-mile Spring Creek Trail is the best bet for hot summer days — it’s completely shaded by bay, alder and redwood trees and ends at Lake Ilsanjo, where hikers can fish (with a fishing license) or lunch at the picnic tables. From there, intrepid hikers can take the Rough-Go Trail to learn just how it earned its name. Open 8 a.m. to sunset; parking is $8. 6201 Channel Drive. parks.ca.gov

Howarth Park: This park near Spring Lake in Santa Rosa offers up plenty of family fun with a playground, mini-amusement park and train rides. The park is also home to several relaxing trails that loop up and around the lake. Open sunrise to sunset; parking is free. 630 Summerfield Road. srcity.org

Hood Mountain Regional Park: This is the perfect spot for seasoned hikers and those looking for a rugged challenge. A highlight of the park is the Hood Mountain summit, which stands at 2,730 feet, part of the Mayacamas Mountains. The trail climbs through grassy meadows and pine forests. A favorite for intrepid hikers is the trek to Gunsight Rock, which overlooks the Golden Gate Bridge on a clear day. Want a tougher challenge? Try taking the Goodspeed Trail that spans over 8 miles and connects to Sugarloaf Ridge. Open 7 a.m. to sunset; parking is $8. 1450 Pythian Road. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Note: Due to impacts from the 2020 Glass Fire, Hood Mountain’s Summit Trail, Santa Rosa Creek Trail, Azalea Creek picnic area and campground, and sections of Alder Glen Trail and Lower Johnson Ridge Trail remain closed.

Kenwood

Sugarloaf Ridge State Park: With over 25 miles of trails that weave through oak woodlands and along babbling brooks, Sugarloaf has the right trail for everyone. The Canyon-Pony Gate Loop trail leads to a glorious 25-foot waterfall, which flows full-force during the rainy season. The half-mile Nature Trail is ADA accessible with ADA parking at each end. For those looking for a more strenuous hike with stunning views, the 6.6-mile Bald Mountain Loop traverses 1,529 feet up to the peak, where you can see as far as Mt. St. Helena to the north and San Francisco Bay to the south. Open from 6 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily; parking is $8 for seniors (62 and over) and students, $10 for general admission. 2605 Adobe Canyon Road. 707-833-5712, sugarloafpark.org

Glen Ellen

Jack London State Park: This historic landmark features over 1,000 acres of stunning nature and literary history. Visitors can see the ruins of London’s dream home via the 1-mile, round-trip Wolf House Historic Trail. The 8-mile, out-and-back Sonoma Mountain Trail explores the shady Kenwood countryside at the base of the mountain, offering a more difficult yet rewarding trek. The park is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily; $10 vehicle entry fee. 2400 London Ranch Road. 707-938-5216, jacklondonpark.com

Sonoma Botanical Garden: This Sonoma Valley treasure boasts one of the largest, wild-sourced, Asian plant collections in North America and Europe. Visitors can download an app, Bloomberg Connects, for self-guided tours through the verdant woodlands. Open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily; $17 for adults, $14 for seniors (65 and over), $8 for youth ages 5-17, active military and teachers, and free for children 4 and under. 12841 Highway 12. 707-996-3166, sonomabg.org

Sonoma Valley Regional Park: Located in the center of Sonoma Valley, this 202-acre park features several shaded picnic areas and various short trails around ridges and hillsides. The paved, ADA accessible, 1.2-mile Valley of the Moon Trail winds through a forest of oaks along a seasonal creek. Near the parking area, the fenced Elizabeth Perrone Dog Park allows dogs to play off leash (though they must be leashed on trails). Open 7 a.m. to sunset; parking is $8. 13630 Highway 12. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Sonoma

Montini Open Space Preserve: Located just past Sonoma’s Field of Dreams recreational park, Montini’s Sonoma Overlook Trail opens up to vast oak woodlands and open grasslands. The Valley of the Moon Trail provides awe-inspiring views of the city and Sonoma Mountain. Dogs, bicycles, horses and smoking are prohibited at the preserve, except for ADA service dogs. Open dawn to dusk daily. Sonoma Overlook Trailhead, 198 First St. W., overlookmontini.org

Petaluma

Helen Putnam Regional Park: Located in southwest Petaluma’s Chileno Valley, the park’s 6 miles of trails meander along rolling hills and through dense oak woodlands. The Panorama Trail lives up to its name, offering spectacular views of the city to the east and the vast countryside to the west. Open 7 a.m. to sunset; parking is $8. Two trailhead entrances: 411 Chileno Valley Road and 373 Windsor Drive. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Tolay Lake Regional Park: The 3,400-acre park southeast of downtown Petaluma offers 11 miles of hiking, mountain biking and horseback riding trails, as well as ample birdwatching opportunities — the park provides habitat for golden eagles, burrowing owls and other birds of prey. The West Ridge Trail leads through open grasslands to vista points overlooking the Petaluma marsh and San Pablo Bay. Open 7 a.m. to sunset; parking is $8. 5869 Cannon Lane. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Shollenberger Park: Go birdwatching on a leisurely stroll around this 165-acre wetlands park. Hugging the Petaluma River, the park features a large pond encircled by a level, 2-mile trail that’s perfect for a daily run, bike ride, walking the dog or a casual walk with a friend observing the swans, swallows and red-winged blackbirds. Open sunrise to sunset; parking is free. 1400 Cader Lane. cityofpetaluma.org/shollenberger-park

Rohnert Park

Crane Creek Regional Park: This 128-acre park, full of sloping grasslands and wildflower meadows, is an ideal spot to hike, ride horses, have a picnic or play disc golf. Trails are under 2 miles long, making it a great option for kids and beginning hikers. Plus, visitors can see cattle graze seasonally around the park to reduce fire risk (for the cattle’s safety, keep dogs on a leash and do not pet the cows). Open 7 a.m. to sunset; parking is $7. 5000 Pressley Road. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Windsor

Foothill Regional Park: Located in the Mayacamas foothills in east Windsor, this 211-acre park is an oak savanna scattered with several species of oaks, plus bay, madrone and buckeye trees. The easy, wheelchair-accessible Three Lakes Trail visits three ponds where visitors can fish for bass and bluegill, while the Alta Vista Trail offers a more challenging climb to the summit. Following the 2019 Kincade Fire, which burned or damaged 95% of the park, Sonoma County Regional Parks completed construction of several improvement projects, including trail restorations and new gathering areas. Open 7 a.m. to sunset; parking is $8. 1351 Arata Lane. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Shiloh Ranch Regional Park: This rugged, 850-acre park in southeast Windsor includes a pond, canyons, rolling hills, oak woodlands, mixed evergreen forests and a shaded creek. Most trails offer sweeping views of the Santa Rosa Plain and are suitable for hiking, biking and horseback riding. For a hike that has a bit of everything, from panoramic vistas to secluded treks through dense greenery, follow the Big Leaf Trail to Ridge Trail and back via the Canyon or Creekside trails. Open 7 a.m. to sunset; parking is $8. 5750 Faught Road. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Healdsburg

Riverfront Regional Park: Located along the Russian River, Riverfront Regional Park offers less strenuous jaunts than the area’s higher-incline trails, but still has incredible views. With two lakes and a redwood grove, hikers can enjoy the 2-mile Lake Trail that loops around the park and end the day with a picnic under the redwoods. Fishing and non-motorized boating are permitted at the lakes, but swimming is prohibited. Open from 7 a.m. to sunset; parking is $12 in summer and $8 the rest of the year. 7821 Eastside Road. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Alexander Valley Vineyards: The vineyard hikes at the Wetzel family estate is less of a hike and more of a leisurely stroll among the vineyards and winery grounds in Healdsburg. The tour ends with wine tasting straight from the barrel in an underground wine cave. This 21-and-over-only hike is $85 per person, $65 for wine club members, and requires a reservation 48 hours in advance. Vineyard hikes are available starting at 10:30 a.m. daily. Reserve on Tock. 8644 Highway 128, 707-433-7209, avvwine.com

Geyserville

Lake Sonoma Recreation Area: Owned and operated by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, the area’s 2,700-acre lake is the main draw, inviting visitors to swim, fish, boat and picnic lakeside. Trails are fairly easy and incredibly scenic, such as the South Lake Trail that traces around the lake and is home to a variety of wildlife, including deer, quail and wild boar. The visitor center is open from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily. 3333 Skaggs Springs Road. 707-431-4590, spn.usace.army.mil/Missions/Recreation/Lake-Sonoma

Cloverdale

Cloverdale River Park: A hidden gem of northern Sonoma County, this Cloverdale park runs along the Russian River and is ideal for casual walks, picnics and water activities. A paved, 1-mile trail runs through a riparian forest and features picnic areas, fishing access and a small-watercraft launch area. Open 7 a.m. to sunset; parking is $12 in summer and $8 the rest of the year. 31820 McCray Road. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

West county and Sonoma Coast

West County Regional Trail: This forested 5.5-mile, mostly paved route, linking Sebastopol, Forestville and Graton, is perfect for cyclists looking for a nice stretch of road to bike. The trail is also a prime spot for bird-watching and admiring the thick moss growing on the trees that line the path. Open from 7 a.m. to sunset; parking is free. 9251 Ross Station Road, Sebastopol. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve: This sprawling 805-acre redwood grove is the kind of place that can reinvigorate the soul. Take the 1-1.7-mile Pioneer Nature Trail for a peaceful stroll among nature’s giants and to view the Colonel Armstrong Tree, the grove’s oldest tree, estimated to be over 1,400 years old. Open from 8 a.m. to one hour after official sunset. Parking fee is $10 per vehicle, $9 for seniors. 17000 Armstrong Woods Road, Guerneville. 707-869-2015, parks.ca.gov

Grove of Old Trees: Stewarded by local nonprofit LandPaths, this small open space preserve is renowned for its glorious redwood grove surrounded by rolling ranchland. Take your time sauntering among these gentle giants — resting on just 33 acres, the grove’s trails are short and easy, and a good oppportunity to practice the art of forest bathing. Open from dawn to dusk daily. 17599 Fitzpatrick Lane, Occidental. landpaths.org/grove-of-old-trees

Sonoma Coast State Park: Encompassing a 17-mile stretch of coastline from Jenner to Bodega Bay, Sonoma Coast State Park offers visitors plenty of sandy coves and seaside trails to explore. To get the most out of the Pacific vistas, take the 4.6-mile, round-trip Kortum Trail that skirts along the coast from Blind Beach to Wright’s Beach. The Pomo Canyon Trail, 3.5 miles from the Pomo Canyon campground to Shell Beach, is another favorite for its lush redwood forests and wildflower meadows. Call 707-875-3483 for park hours. Parking fee is $10 per vehicle, $9 for seniors. parks.ca.gov

Multi-county

Robert Louis Stevenson State Park: Mount Saint Helena is the tallest climbable peak in the Bay Area at 4,342 feet. Part of the Mayacamas Mountains, it’s located within Robert Louis Stevenson State Park, at the intersection of Sonoma, Napa and Lake counties. The 5.3-mile trail to the summit (over 10 miles out and back) is a steep, steady climb, but not too strenuous for experienced hikers. Once at the top, the views are spectacular: 360-degree vistas extend across Napa Valley to Mount Tamalpais, to San Francisco and the twin peaks of Mount Diablo in the south, Mount Lassen and Snow Mountain in the north, the Vaca Mountains in the east and the coastal ranges and the ocean in the west. Open sunrise to sunset; parking is free. Mt. St. Helena Trailhead, 4625 Lake County Highway, Calistoga. parks.ca.gov

Michael Barnes, Jenna Fischer and Maci Martell contributed to this article. This article was originally published in January, 2020.

Chefs Bring Global Cuisine to New Wine and Food Pairing Series

June 2022

By Heather Irwin

Preeti Mistry curates a team of BIPOC women chefs at J Vineyards & Winery. (Courtesy J Vineyards)

At face value, J Vineyards’ summer wine and food pairing experience, “Shifting the Lens,” will showcase three chefs of color (Jenny Dorsey, Preeti Mistry and Shenarri Freeman), pairing their culinary creations and favorite flavor profiles with J Vineyards wines.

But Mistry isn’t a face-value kind of person. An outspoken activist for food justice and inclusion, Mistry used their platform as a Top Chef Season 6 contestant and as a guest on Michelle Obama’s “Waffles + Mochi” Netflix series to spotlight the need for representation of people of color in the food world (Mistry uses the pronouns they/them).

As a new Sonoma County resident and curator of “Shifting the Lens,” Mistry is expanding Wine Country’s narrow vision of wine and food pairing — cheese, charcuterie, European cuisine — to include global ingredients and underrepresented voices.

“We wanted to do something that not only showcased different cuisines with the wine but went beyond that to the deeper meaning behind the pairings,” Mistry said.

The winery says the event will build on its “legacy of growing, evolving and challenging people’s notions on pairing wine with food,” according to the online description of the chefs’ curated tasting menus.

“At J, we believe that learning about how a meal is made, the story behind its ingredients and how the chef’s experience shaped the dish goes beyond culinary knowledge. It broadens our scope and takes us to a place of discovery and connection,” the winery website says. J Vineyards & Winery is owned by E. & J. Gallo.

During Dorsey’s, Mistry’s and Freeman’s monthlong residencies at J Vineyards, each will prepare a five-course tasting menu that will be featured at the winery’s Bubble Room and host a VIP dinner and discussion.

“It’s so rare for chefs like us, BIPOC (Black, Indigenous and people of color) women, to have the platform and stage, cooking the food of our own culture,” Mistry said of the Indian, Chinese and soul food cuisines featured in the series. “People think these might not pair well with wine, but that’s absolutely not true.”

Mistry, who identifies as a queer, first-generation Indian woman, plans to include green garbanzo beans with stone fruit, sprouted mung puri and hibiscus pani along with burnt masala quail with saffron rice and a dessert of saffron cardamom yogurt pudding. Dorsey’s and Freeman’s menus are still in the works.

Dorsey is the founder of Studio ATAO, a nonprofit that advocates for equitable standards in the hospitality industry. Freeman champions plant-based Southern soul food inspired by her family in North Carolina.

All three chefs focus on farm-to-table cuisine, using fresh and local ingredients, but Mistry said the moniker isn’t unique to European cuisine.

“Right now, I’m in a crunch for sourcing (these meals) at local farms. I’m running around to find someone growing parilla and shiso. It’s about dispelling the myth that the only farm-to-table food is European. Where do you think the rest of us get food?” Mistry said.

J Vineyards & Winery's vine-covered Russian River Valley production facility with its 'Bubble Room' and other hospitality suites is part of the sale deal to E&J Gallo. (courtesy of J Vineyards & Winery) — J Vineyards & Winery’s vine-covered Russian River Valley production facility. (Courtesy of J Vineyards & Winery)

While there were more than 10 chefs on the winery’s shortlist for the residency, Mistry said it came down to a handful of people who really inspired them.

“This is part of a larger vision,” Mistry said. The goal is to create mentorships and showcase people who can bring even more impact and change to the community.

Dorsey’s tasting menu will be at the Bubble Room July 7-10 and July 14-17, with a VIP dinner on July 9. Mistry’s tasting menu will be available Aug. 18-21 and Aug. 25-28, with a VIP dinner Aug. 20. Freeman’s tasting menu will be available Sept. 29 through Oct. 2 and Oct. 6-9, with a VIP dinner on Oct. 1. More details at jwine.com.

A Day Trip on the Russian River, Inspired by Guerneville’s Michael Volpatt

June 2022

By Karen Kizer

outside of Big Bottom Market — Outside of Big Bottom Market in Guerneville. (Courtesy Big Bottom Market)

Michael Volpatt, owner of Big Bottom Market, is perhaps best known for his biscuits, which were one of Oprah’s “Favorite Things” a few years back. But Volpatt, a fixture in this tiny Russian River community, has his hands in the mix in many ways beyond making biscuits.

Volpatt co-owns the Equality Vines tasting room across the street from the market, heads up a local PR firm and volunteers at a nearby pig sanctuary. Not to mention that at the beginning of the pandemic, he became the host of a self-produced cooking show, making livestreams of his homemade meals: “I didn’t know what I was going to do. I hadn’t found my pod yet. So I said, ‘I’m going to do what makes me happiest,’ which is to make my mother’s marinara sauce.”

After finishing a day’s work, Volpatt heads to what he calls his gym, nearby Armstrong Woods, where he hikes the redwood trails and does strengthening exercises. But it’s his connection to the people of Guerneville that seems to fuel his boundless energy and interests.

For a Russian River day trip that would make Volpatt proud, check out these favorite stops below in Guerneville and west county.

Big Bottom Market

Volpatt’s market has terrific takeout, cookbooks and foodie gifts, and partners with winemakers to offer bottles that give back to local charities. 16228 Main St., Guerneville, 707-604-7295, bigbottommarket.com

River’s End Restaurant & Inn

Specializing in spectacular sunsets since the 1920s, this restaurant overlooks the spot where the Russian River slips into the ocean. Try hyper-local Dungeness crab ravioli with wild mushrooms. 11048 Highway 1, Jenner, 707-865-2484, ilovesunsets.com

Christopher Queen Galleries

In nearby Duncans Mills, this two-story gallery features rotating exhibits of contemporary artists on the first floor, and, on the second floor, California landscapes from the 1800s and early 1900s. 4 John Orr’s Gardens, Duncans Mills, 707-865-1318, christopherqueengalleries.com

West County Wines

Flambeaux Wines is run by a family from New Orleans that creates bottles to pair with Southern foods like gumbo and shrimp and grits. And Porter-Bass has been farming with biodynamic practices since the 1980s. Both wineries are open by appointment. Flambeaux Wine, 1333 Jack Pine Road, Healdsburg, 707-637-9019, flambeauxwine.com; Porter-Bass, 11750 Mays Canyon Road, Guerneville, 707-869-1475, porter-bass.com

Equality Vines

The Love Wins sparkling wine celebrates the landmark Supreme Court decision that legalized same-sex marriage. 16215 Main St., Guerneville, 877-379-4637, equalityvines.com

When Pigs Fly Ranch

Some very fortunate pigs are living well at this sanctuary on the Russian River. Wesley, an 800-pounder, will roll over for belly rubs. Visits by appointment. whenpigsflyranch.org

Elk Fence Distillery Opens in Santa Rosa

June 2022

By Sarah Doyle

Gail Coppinger, right, and Scott Woodson, owners of Elk Fence Distillery, make Fir Top Gin, The Briny Deep Whiskey and White Elk Vodka in the only distillery in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

When Scott Woodson approached his friend Gail Coppinger to gauge her interest in distilling, Coppinger needed some clarification.

“Distilled water? Perfume? I had no idea he was talking about whiskey,” recalled Coppinger, who was running an organic produce stand at the time.

The two had met years earlier while working as painting contractors. Coppinger, a house shingler by trade, had moved on from contract work when Woodson showed up at her produce stand to talk whiskey. After catching up, they discovered they both were yearning for a new adventure.

“I approached Gail with the idea of starting a distillery because I remembered how well we worked together,” said Woodson, who has been an avid home brewer since the 1990s. “I knew we would make a good team.”

Today, Coppinger and Woodson are the proud owners and distillers of Elk Fence Distillery, the first craft distillery in Santa Rosa. Located in an industrial building off Santa Rosa Avenue, the small-batch distillery produces an American single malt whiskey, a botanical gin and a barley-based vodka, all poured and sold in their recently opened tasting room.

(As for the name, it refers to the fence bordering a field where Woodson once grew barley. On the other side were elk, and he called the area “the elk fence.” The partners thought it a fitting name for their new venture.)

For Coppinger and Woodson, getting to this point was an exercise in patience and determination that brought a new crop of gray hairs. From ideation to first distillation, the process took about five years, which Coppinger compared to “going through a series of brick walls,” from complications with permits to the 2017 Tubbs Fire.

“You hit one brick wall, you figure out how to go through it and then you keep going,” she said. “Because at some point you’ve gone too far forward to go back.”

An old Steinway upright in the Elk Fence Distillery tasting room in Santa Rosa Tuesday, May 24, 2022. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Breaking new ground

To start distilling, Coppinger and Woodson needed to apply for a distilled spirits permit. But before that, they needed to secure a lease on a distillery location.

Unfortunately, with no distilling experience, they found few property owners were willing to give them a chance — especially considering the flammability risk of spirits production. A year and a half later, they were grateful to obtain a location in Santa Rosa that would eventually become the town’s first distillery ever.

Then came the divorce.

The day before Coppinger and Woodson were scheduled to submit their distiller’s permit application, their attorneys called to discuss an urgent matter: tied-house laws.

In simple terms, federal and state tied-house laws prohibit distillers, brewers and winemakers from pressuring bars, restaurants and retailers to buy their alcohol. The laws came into effect after Prohibition, when alcohol beverage producers would often bribe saloons and retailers to sell their products in exchange for low-interest loans, free draft systems and other perks.

At the time, Woodson’s wife, Cat Cowles, worked for Hog Island Oyster Co., a popular oyster bar in Tomales Bay that had two liquor licenses. According to tied-house laws, that was a conflict of interest.

“If we wanted to be approved for our distiller’s permit, I would need to get a divorce!” Woodson said, laughing. “So that night, I broke the news to Cat. Fortunately, she agreed.”

“One of the things I love about Scotty is that he’s very even-tempered,” Coppinger said. “Nothing really rattles him. In that way, we even each other out. That’s one of the reasons our partnership is so strong and solid.”

By the time Coppinger and Woodson were ready to begin building their distillery, it was 2017, the year of the Tubbs Fire.

“When we told the fire department we wanted to build a distillery, they were like, ‘What?’” Coppinger said. “They had no idea how to handle us because there was no historical framework for building a distillery in Santa Rosa. There are numerous distilleries in Sonoma County, but each town has its own rules. So that made things very complicated.”

It would take three years for Coppinger and Woodson to build the distillery, but they forged ahead with determination throughout the process. To support U.S. manufacturing, they bought high-quality American-made equipment for their facility, including two copper Trident stills from Maine, a roller mill from South Dakota, a wort chiller from Arkansas and a boiler from the small town of Wyoming, Illinois.

Under the gaze of the mounted head of an elk purchased on eBay, co-owner Gail Coppinger checks a tank in the production room at Elk Fence Distillery in Santa Rosa Tuesday, May 24, 2022. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

For the tasting room, the pair cleverly transformed a tired office space adjacent to the distillery into a cozy bar beaming with character. Every object here has a story to tell, from the old-growth redwood bar dating to the 1800s, to the upright antique Steinway piano rescued from a basement, to the dark and dreamy wall art obtained at flea markets throughout the state.

Now, after years of delay, the Elk Fence tasting room is finally open for tastings, tours and select artisan cocktails.

The spirits

Elk Fence Distillery produces three core spirits, including a whiskey, a gin and a vodka.

Briny Deep ($140 a bottle), an American single malt whiskey, is made with local barley sourced from Admiral Malts in Alameda and Grizzly Malts in Rohnert Park. Aged for two years in new American white oak from Minnesota, it’s delightfully drinkable for such a young expression. “If you put good stuff in the barrel, it doesn’t take long to age,” Coppinger said.

White Elk ($35 a bottle) is a barley-based vodka that could stand on its own with just ice and a twist of lemon. Distilled only twice, the spirit retains a subtle sweetness with a hint of malt.

Fir Top ($50 a bottle) is a botanical gin made of juniper, coriander, tangerine and grapefruit from San Francisco Herb Co. It’s fresh, citrusy and destined for a gin and tonic with Fever-Tree tonic.

On certain days, Woodson whips up one or more of his inventive cocktails, like the popular Elksicle, with Fir Top gin, fresh tangerine juice, lemon and apricot liqueur.

The Elk Fence Distillery produces, from left, White Elk Vodka, The Briny Deep Whiskey and Fir Top Gin in the only distillery in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Tastings include a complimentary tour, with additional bottles available for purchase. The spirits are also available at Bottle Barn, Willibee’s and in cocktails at Perch and Plow.

Looking forward, Coppinger and Woodson want Elk Fence Distillery to be a gathering spot, where people can listen to music or learn more about the art of distilling. They also hope to offer classes in distilling someday.

“People know how to make beer and wine, but distilling is often under a veil of secrecy. We want to share our knowledge with others,” Woodson said. “Some people call themselves a master distiller, and I just shake my head. You might know a lot, but you’ll never know everything. That’s why we’re always learning and experimenting.”

Tastings from $10, waived with purchase. 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Fridays and by appointment. 464 Kenwood Court, Suite E, Santa Rosa; 415-497-4338, elkfencedistillery.com

You can reach staff writer Sarah Doyle at 707-521-5478 or sarah.doyle@pressdemocrat.com.

5 Destination Restaurants to Visit in Petaluma

June 2022

By Carey Sweet

Dolsot Bibimbap, rice topped with vegetables and fried egg in a sizzling stone pot with beef, with traditional Korean side dishes from Soban Korean in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Hungry for something different? Check out Petaluma’s new restaurants (welcome, Table Culture and Stellina), a wildly inventive destination (you go, Street Social), a cultural gem (Korean in P-Town!) and a wonderful spot coming soon (hello, Costeaux).

Stellina Pronto

If you’ve never had a cornetto, here’s your chance to fall in love with the soft, lighter Italian-style croissant stuffed with goodies like custard, Nutella or jam. Sugar speckled morning buns beckon, too, as does a phyllo-layered raspberry puff anchored by plenty of pastry cream. At lunch, swoop in for the fabulous focaccia sandwiches — the bread is pillowy, golden, chewy, and so crackly on top it almost looks like fried cheese (get it loaded with Grandma Vera’s meatballs, herbed red sauce, fresh basil and melted provolone).

Nutella cornetto filled with the creamy chocolate and hazelnut spread, drizzled with chocolate ganache, and topped with whole toasted hazelnuts, at Stellina Pronto in Petaluma. (Stellina Pronto) — Nutella cornetto filled with the creamy chocolate and hazelnut spread, drizzled with chocolate ganache, and topped with whole toasted hazelnuts, at Stellina Pronto. (Courtesy Stellina Pronto)

Owners Christian Caiazzo and Katrina Fried got their start in Point Reyes, with their Osteria Stellina, so you’ll see accents like Point Reyes Toma cheese or Cowgirl Creamery’s Mt. Tam Triple Cream cheese on a puff pastry with organic local egg and Petaluma’s Caggiano Company ham. That matcha in the frothy tea, though? It comes straight from Kyoto, Japan.

23 Kentucky St., Petaluma, 707-789-9556, stellinapronto.com

Table Culture Provisions

Chef-owners Stéphane Saint Louis and Steven Vargas like to add twists to classic dishes, for extra “pow” on the palate. So commit to a five- or seven-course tasting menu and you’ll find some creative takes, such as grilled asparagus topped in hollandaise, but also umami-rich X.O. sauce and sweet-salty pepitas. Or scallops with snow peas, but also coconut cream. Or homemade Parker House rolls with bone marrow butter, but also ramp powder and leek flowers. It’s haute cuisine, to be sure, but with the chunky block wall building that looks like a renovated auto repair shop, it feels neighborhood casual, too.

312 Petaluma Blvd. S., Petaluma, 707-559-5739, tcprovision.com

Dessert featuring choux glacé, dulce de lèche and chocolate at Table Culture Provisions in Petaluma. (Courtesy of Table Culture Provisions)

Street Social

Menus are revamped every Tuesday, to keep you coming back for new, delicious, mad scientist surprises like chicken liver mousse kicked up with Ethiopian berbere pepper, or gluten-free golden fried chicken plated with charred sprouting cauliflower and Indonesian sambal chile paste. Owners Marjorie Pier and Jevon Martin also have fun with their beverage list, showering it with small production bottlings from Europe (their orange wine is organic, natural Pinot Grigio Kabaj Sivi from Goriška Brda, Slovenia) and, yep, a variety of canned beers.

29 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma, 707-774-6185, streetsocial.social

Soban Korean Cuisine

The dishes can be unfamiliar to many palates: golbaengi-muchim, sea snails tossed with vegetables in a sweet-spicy vinaigrette, or doenjang jjigae, a fermented soybean paste soup, for example. But owners Daniel and Sarah Kim also offer more approachable yet still exciting fare like seafood jeon, a hubcap-size, inch-thick pancake studded with chopped shrimp, scallops, squid and tender vegetables, then skillet-fried to a crisp edge and fluffy interior for dipping in sweet-tangy Korean soy sauce.

Kimchi Jjigae, bottom, spicy homemade kimchi soup with pork and organic tofu, and a side of kimchi from Soban Korean in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

This is real deal cooking, as most entrées come with banchan, the colorful collection of small side dishes that are a Korean signature. Here, we savor rainbow selections of homemade kimchi, plus nibbles like marinated bean sprouts, pickled cucumber, fish cake, turnips with red chile, Korean spinach, crisp ueong (gobo root) and yeongeun (lotus root). For spicy plates, be sure to order a Korean beer or soju (vodka-like rice drink) — it will soothe the burn from the delectable kimchi jjigae, a pork-tofu stew swirled with Korean red chile pepper and kimchi.

255 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma, 707-769-3112, sobanpetaluma.com

Costeaux French Bakery

A landmark for nearly 100 years in Healdsburg, the café will boast an outpost later this summer in the historic Hotel Petaluma on Washington Street. Founded in 1923 and owned by the Seppi family since 1981, the bakery is beloved for its hand-shaped, long-fermented artisanal breads baked on an Italian hearth oven. Over the years, the selection has expanded to include treats like chocolate tortes, fruit-nut tarts, feather light macarons, and elaborate cakes. Stop in, too, for a luxurious breakfast (cinnamon walnut bread pain perdu draped in pure Vermont maple syrup) and lunch (hearty, gooey cheese-capped French onion soup, or chicken panino slathered with tangy lemon cilantro mayo on focaccia).

205 Kentucky St., Petaluma, costeaux.com

Meet the Bay Area Filmmaker Who Makes Short Films for Nonprofits

June 2022

By John Beck

Videographer Jake Viramontez sets up his editing station in his Graton studio. Viramontez started a nonprofit to make fundraising videos for other nonprofit groups. His video on Sebastopol’s Ceres Project inspired Sony to gift him their latest FX3 camera and then hired him to direct up to 10 short films for other nonprofits in their Create Action campaign. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

When Jake Viramontez was a kid growing up in San Jose, he loved watching international spy thrillers, remote adventure films — “anything where people would explore and navigate the globe with confidence.”

“I guess I’m still trying to live out that reality,” he says, only days before flying to Germany for a film shoot. At 34, he’s already been to 54 countries, making both advertising films and short promotions for nonprofits. In 2021, after working in Los Angeles for over a decade, he moved to Graton.

On a whim, Viramontez created Free Exposure, an initiative that offered to make films for nonprofits in need at no cost. He started with a short for Our Own, a Los Angeles nonprofit that helps underserved kids with college prep and business internships.

Changing the name of the initiative to “Sown,” he focused his second film on the Ceres Community Project, a life-altering Sebastopol group that works with teen volunteers to grow and make organic meals for those facing serious illness. The work was screened at this year’s Sonoma International Film Festival and can be seen at ceresproject.org.

Nonprofit storytelling

“As a filmmaker you’re always telling the story of the potential of the human spirit; of our ability to overcome obstacles and to emerge on the other side stronger. That’s the hero’s journey. That’s ‘Star Wars.’ That’s ‘The Odyssey.’ And I think nonprofits live that every single day.”

Biggest challenge

“Asking for money for this initiative. I have no problem raising for other people, and I actually really enjoy it. But I’m really bad at asking for money for Sown.”

The takeaway

“It feels like purpose. It’s why I like the name ‘Sown’ so much, because it feels the way that you would look at a giant oak tree – and go, ‘Wow, that started somewhere.’ And it started as an acorn.”

See and learn more about Jake Viramontez’s work at sownforgood.com.

Recipe: Mulberry-Ginger Mocktail

June 2022

By Michele Anna Jordan

Mulberries can be muddled into refreshing summer drinks. (Shutterstock)

As spring unfurls into summer, a bird’s-eye view of Sonoma County reveals a patchwork of leafy mulberry trees, many heavy with fruit, stretching from Two Rock to Sonoma, from Lakeville to Dry Creek Valley, from Penngrove to Jenner.

There are old trees, new trees, fruitless trees and trees that produce the rare white mulberry. Mulberries do not ripen all at once. A single tree can be harvested for weeks, beginning in May and continuing through late June.

Some of this local fruit ends up at farmers markets, but it often sells out quickly. Most mulberries, we hear, are enjoyed fresh, but if some manage to make it back home, try them folded into scones and muffins, cooked into jam or chutney, or muddled into refreshing summer drinks, such as this one, inspired by a recipe in Robert Kourik’s 2021 book “Sustainable Food Gardens: Myths & Solutions.”

Mulberry-Ginger Mocktail

Makes 1, easily doubled

• 1 slice fresh ginger, about the size of a quarter

• 1 small lime wedge

• 3 tablespoons fresh mulberries

• 1 ounce freshly squeezed lime juice

• 1 bottle ginger beer (we the Fever Tree brand)

• Ice cubes

• 1 small sprig of mint or cilantro

• 2 or 3 whole mulberries

Put the slice of ginger into a large mug or pint glass and use a wooden pestle to gently pound, or muddle, it. Add the lime wedge and pound gently; then add the mulberries and pound gently again, just enough to break up the berries. Pour in the ginger beer, stir gently, and add three or four ice cubes.

Garnish the drink with the sprig of mint or cilantro, top with whole mulberries, and enjoy.

To make this into a cocktail, add 1 ½ ounces vodka with the lime juice.

Healdsburg Restaurant Clocked By Michelin Guide

June 2022

By Heather Irwin

Dustin Valette, co-owner and chef at Valette and The Matheson in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Michael Woolsey)

The wait for the annual fall Michelin awards can be grueling for restaurateurs, so the restaurant guidebook dangles a few carrots in the months before, including “discoveries” under consideration for a star or Bib Gourmand.

Healdsburg’s Matheson restaurant was one of 17 recently-opened restaurants in California tapped for the honor this week and featured on guide.michelin.com. The Matheson, a years-in-the-making project from Chef Dustin Valette, opened in fall 2021 with a fine-dining restaurant, a private mezzanine and an upstairs lounge called Roof 106.

“Chef Dustin Valette’s latest venture is in a soaring complex, but that never takes the focus away from the menu that weaves seasonal products with California flair and Mediterranean elements,” said the Guide’s “Famously Anonymous” inspectors in a press release. This is the first nod for Chef Valette, whose namesake restaurant, Valette, has never been awarded a Michelin star despite its popularity and creative, locally-sourced menu.

Highlighting notable new restaurants enables food lovers to “enjoy new discoveries” and note “culinary gems,” according to writers of the California Michelin Guide. It’s also a chance for curious diners to avoid the mobs after restaurants are starred.

The Matheson is at 106 Matheson St. in Healdsburg, thematheson.com. Reservations are highly recommended.

Kona Kampachi Ceviche with avocado, kohlrabi, citrus kosho from The Matheson in Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Also included in the “new discoveries” list of California restaurants (with Inspectors’ notes) are:

Abacá, San Francisco: Chef Francis Ang, together with wife and co-owner Dian, have produced this ode to Filipino cooking in the lush Kimpton Alton Hotel.

Be.Stéak.Ă, Campbell: An elegant ambience complements an elevated menu of exceptional steaks and an array of dishes at Chef Jeffrey Stout’s newest restaurant.

Birch & Rye, San Francisco:  At this cozy nook, Chef Anya El-Wattar combines her upbringing and restaurant chops to offer a unique, ingredient-focused interpretation of Russian cuisine that is in equal measure indulgent and fresh.

Dela Curo, Oakland: Located in Swan’s Market in downtown Oakland, this order-at-the-counter style of spot is brought to diners by Chikara Ono.

Donaji in San Francisco. (Courtesy of Stephanie Pass)

Donaji, San Francisco:  Chef Isai Cuevas, who earned a reputation selling his excellent tamales at farmers markets across the city, now has a cheerful, neighborhood brick-and-mortar.

Ernest, San Francisco: Chef Brandon Rice’s hip, irreverent cooking style sets the vibe, exemplified in fancy-meets-comforting combos like Kaluga caviar with crème fraîche and tater tots.

Good Good Culture Club, San Francisco:  The vibrantly flavorful cooking here highlights Southeast Asian flavors and unique Californian expressions in dishes like a signature adobo-glazed fried chicken wing stuffed with garlic rice.

Hawks, Granite Bay: The straightforward menu reflects the seasons, offering a small selection of familiar plates heightened with a touch of oomph.

Lane 33 Café in Napa. (Courtesy of Jose Calderon)

Lane 33 Café, Napa: In the category of bowling alley eats, mole and quesadillas aren’t likely to spring to mind, but Chef Alex Soto’s skillful, flavor-packed Mexican cooking served Wednesday-Sunday will change your outlook.

Le Fantastique, San Francisco: Creativity and finesse are part and parcel of the cooking, and the too-cool vibe and vinyl soundtrack are matched by gracious hospitality.

Miller & Lux, San Francisco: Fine dining may seem an unlikely find in the shadow of the hulking Chase Center arena, but this stunning harborage from Chef Tyler Florence is worth a splurge.

Nisei, San Francisco:  ”Nisei” refers to the American-born children of Japanese immigrants, which Chef David Yoshimura is; the synthesis of that heritage forms the basis of his cuisine.

San Ho Won in San Francisco. (Courtesy of Eric Wolfinger)

San Ho Won, San Francisco: Combining the talents of Chefs Corey Lee and protégé Jeong-In Hwang, here it’s safe to expect the exceptional. The kitchen’s refined technique deftly combines traditional Korean tastes with a sense of novelty.

Sato Omakase, San Francisco : This stylish counter offers an ambience of restful tranquility, but more importantly, it serves up an indulgent tasting that highlights painstakingly sourced ingredients.

Sorella, San Francisco: The spirited younger sister to grande dame Acquerello; the family resemblance is nonetheless apparent in the thoughtful cuisine, which runs Californian by way of Northern Italy.

Stokes Adobe, Monterey:  The small, ingredient-driven menu draws upon French and Italian elements, seen in hearty, satisfying dishes like the maltagliati pasta in prosciutto-parmesan broth.