Pair Doughnuts and Beer at HenHouse Brewing Co.

HenHouse Brewing and Johnny Doughnuts pair up for National Doughnut Day on June 3. (Courtesy photo)

Move over wine pairings, it’s time for doughnut and beer pairing. Because really, wouldn’t you rather have a few more carbs to light up your life?

Ready to fill your belly with deliciousness just in time for National Doughnut Day (June 3), HenHouse Brewing Co. is teaming up with Johnny Doughnuts for a limited-edition beer flight paired with Johnny’s mini doughnuts Friday, June 3 through June 5. The event will happen at the brewery’s taproom at 322 Bellevue Ave. in Santa Rosa and Palace of Barrels at 333 N. McDowell Blvd. in Petaluma.

The $22 tasting will include three new coffee- and pastry-themed beers, including:

“No Chocolate Frosted Mini Donuts Were Harmed In The Making Of This Barrel-Aged Pastry Stout,” a hearty brew aged in bourbon and maple syrup barrels. The chocolate-doughnut inspired beer is also made with Haitian cacao nibs and a blend of Tahitian and bourbon vanilla. Paired doughnut is a Maple Old Fashioned.

“The Delicious Little Devil,” barrel-aged in bourbon and maple syrup barrels and brewed with Land and Water coffee, paired with Chocolate Cake Doughnut.

“Fresh Pots” Coffee Saison, made with Land and Water coffee and paired with Lime Poppy Seed Glazed Doughnut.

If you want the expanded doughnut and beer experience, a Johnny Doughnuts coffee-and-doughnut-filled food truck will be serving up full-sized doughnuts at HenHouse’s Palace of Barrels in Petaluma 11 a.m. to 2 pm. Sunday.

In addition to the mini doughnuts, guests will also receive a free doughnut voucher with the purchase of a bottle of barrel-aged doughnut beer redeemable at Johnny’s locations throughout the Bay Area, including the shop located at 1200 Fourth St. in Santa Rosa.

The Best Cheap Eats in Healdsburg

Doubling as a health foods store and deli, Shelton’s in Healdsburg has long been a dependable market for nutritious grub at a fair price. The sandwiches are piled high with fresh ingredients and the hot bar is always stocked with prepared specialty foods. (Courtesy of Shelton’s Natural Foods Market)

In a city full of high-end restaurants, it can be difficult to find a delicious meal that’s easy on the wallet. But if you know where to look, Healdsburg has a selection of tried-and-true establishments serving up tasty, budget-friendly fare. Click through the above gallery for 10 places where you can get a bite to eat for $15 or less.

Downtown Bakery & Creamery: This humble bakery by the downtown plaza has been offering affordable, delicious treats for more than 30 years. It sells fresh-baked bread, breakfast pastries, delectable desserts, sandwiches and house-made ice cream. The best part? Everything on the menu, save for large cakes and a bag of bagels, is under $10. Best bites include the fig bar ($3.50), sticky bun ($4.50), brownie cupcake ($3.50), baby fruit galette ($7.25) and grilled ham and cheese ($7). 308 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-431-2719, downtownbakeryhealdsburg.com

The Wurst Restaurant: Opened by a Detroit native, The Wurst is a casual hot dog joint that fuses Midwestern specialties and hospitality with fresh Sonoma County ingredients. Several of its items are imported from the Midwest, all the sauces are housemade and there are 16 local beers on tap. Best bites include the Detroit Polish ($12), the Chicago Dog ($12) with green relish, dill pickle spears, fresh veggies and mustard, and the Southwest Turkey Burger ($13) with grilled veggies, pepper jack cheese, avocado and chipotle sauce. Though they’re passionate about sausage, Wurst’s burgers always get top billing in Healdsburg. 22 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707-395-0214, thewurst.com

Shelton’s Natural Foods Market: Doubling as a health foods store and deli, Shelton’s has long been a dependable market for nutritious grub at a fair price. The sandwiches are piled high with fresh ingredients and the hot bar is always stocked with prepared specialty foods, such as rotisserie chicken, barbecued ribs and lemon fettuccine Alfredo. Best bites include the Crunchy Veggie sandwich ($10.99) with pesto, sprouts, cucumber, tomato, onion, avocado, almonds and cream cheese on light rye and the Sonoma Special ($12.49) with smoked turkey, pepper jack, avocado, red onions, lettuce and tomato on sourdough. 428 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-431-0530, sheltonsmarket.com

Taqueria Guadalajara: An unassuming hole-in-the-wall Mexican eatery, Taqueria Guadalajara is one of those places most adored by regulars and locals in the know. Fresh ingredients, generous portions, friendly staff and reliably affordable eats make this taqueria a true dependable gem. Best bites include the regular tacos ($3.69 each), chicken tostada ($6.65) and regular burrito with carnitas or al pastor ($10.75). Do yourself a favor and order a housemade horchata ($3.25) speckled with fresh bits of cinnamon. 125 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-1052, ordertaqueriaguadalajara.com

Plank Coffee: Sure, you could stop by this quaint coffee shop and pick up an artfully prepared latte or cappuccino, but why not sit down for a while to enjoy a farm fresh breakfast? From pastries to sandwiches, with plenty of vegan options, Plank Coffee has a healthy selection of morning dishes that won’t break the bank. Best bites include the housemade ginger cookies ($3.95 each) croissant, egg and cheese sandwich ($9.50), bagel, egg, cheese and tempeh bacon sandwich ($12.50) and breakfast burrito ($13). 175 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-395-0572, plankcoffee.com

Otoro Sushi: This sushi restaurant and fish market sources fresh fish and other ingredients from local farmers’ markets, and imports other select quality, sashimi-grade fish from around the globe. Otoro excels in beautiful, colorful sushi rolls, light and crispy tempura, a cozy modern ambiance and fast, friendly service. Best bites include the miso soup ($3), spicy garlic edamame ($6), salmon skin roll ($8), spicy California roll ($8) and tempura veggie roll ($10). 1280 Healdsburg Ave., Suite 101, Healdsburg, 707-756-3932, otorohealdsburg.com

Big John’s Market: This family-run grocery store has been around for almost 30 years, selling everything from organic produce and local baked goods to housemade sausage and sushi. In addition to carrying items from dozens of local purveyors, Big John’s Market has its own sandwich deli, hot bar, pizza oven and burrito bar for affordable, made-to-order lunches. Best bites include the Fitch Mountain sandwich ($10.99) with chicken breast, bacon, provolone, tomato, avocado and chipotle spread; the Center Street sandwich ($10.99) with prosciutto, fig, blue cheese and olive spread; and the Funghi pizza ($9.99) with fontina, oven roasted mushrooms and thyme. 1345 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-7151, bigjohnsmarket.com

Flakey Cream Do-Nuts & Coffee Shop: Flakey Cream has been a dependable breakfast and lunch staple in Healdsburg since 1960, providing locals with housemade doughnuts and freshly brewed coffee in a casual dining atmosphere daily. But this is much more than a doughnut and coffee shop. The vast menu includes farm-fresh egg breakfasts, burgers, sandwiches and salads. Best bites include the regular glaze donut ($2), jelly-filled donut ($4), three-piece French toast ($12) and the classic breakfast burrito ($14). 441 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-433-3895

Summer’s Market & Deli: Built in the ’50s and reopened in 2014 as Summer’s Market & Deli, this old-fashioned, farm-to-market delicatessen offers gourmet sandwiches, wraps, salads and even housemade ice cream. The friendly staff carefully craft every sandwich with the right balance of ingredients, and the sides, like coleslaw, pesto pasta and macaroni salad, add the perfect touch to any lunch. Best bites include The Kevin with turkey, smoked gouda and fresh veggies on a dutch crunch roll ($8.99); The Jeff Reuben with pastrami, swiss, sauerkraut and thousand island dressing on rye ($9.99); and The Dirty Jerk with turkey, bacon, cream cheese, tomato and lettuce on a sour roll ($9.99). 557 Powell Ave., Healdsburg, 707-756-5004, summersmarketanddeli.com

Lola’s Market: A one-stop-shop for fresh, seasonal produce, quality meats, grocery items, baked goods and traditional Mexican food, Lola’s Market shines as a reliable grocer selling affordable fare. Next time you’re in need of mangoes, tomatillos, dried chiles or conchas, you’ll want to head over to Lola’s, and be sure to grab something from the kitchen while you’re there. Best bites include the al pastor taco ($2.99), quesadilla on a corn tortilla ($3.49), chicken torta ($8.99) and carnitas super burrito ($9.99). 102 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-473-0607, lolasmarkets.com

Mediterranean-Style Home in Kenwood Listed for $3.65 Million

default

Mediterranean style is right at home in a 4-bedroom, 3.5-bathroom Sonoma Valley property for sale on Los Guilicos Avenue, just a short distance from Kenwood. The property, surrounded by rolling hills and vineyards, is listed for $3,650,000.

The vineyards are not part of the property but are located just outside, so vineyard views are available without the watering, pruning and harvesting that comes with owning a vineyard. The home, built in 2008, references a classic Mediterranean villa with clay roof tiles, arched windows, terracotta stucco and iron detailing.

The windows are framed in rustic stained wood. This material has also been used in the oversized doors and in the built-in cabinetry in the library and kitchen. The warm wood has been ornamented with wrought iron door handles and scrollwork — the door to the wine cellar includes forged grapes. Lots of travertine tile has been incorporated throughout the home.

The look of this home is both elegant and rustic, a good match for many of the buildings in the heart of Wine Country. 15-foot vaulted ceilings add to the sense of grandeur of the 4380-square-foot home.

Climbing ivy adorns the front of the home and a large four-tier fountain fit for an Italian villa stands in the center of the front yard. The landscape is kept simple and green with rows of ever-so-Mediterranean Italian cypress, plus hedges and balls of rosemary, lavender and other plants.

A built-in wood-burning pizza oven, a bocce ball court and a trellised swim spa make the property feel even more like a retreat. The great room is separated from the patio by large windows and French doors that allow for a seamless transition between indoors and outdoors. Click through the above gallery to view the property.

This home is listed by Julie Leitzell of Golden Gate Sotheby’s International Realty, 415-309-7074, kenwoodvilla.com

Sweet Sonoma Buys to Enhance Summer Meals

With summer around the corner, it’s time to start relishing the season. Eating is one good way to do that. Why not enhance the experience with a few local luxuries available in Sonoma stores? We’ve picked just a few of our favorites. Get in those stores and find them plus a few favorites of your own — click through the above gallery for details.

9 Must-Try Dishes at BottleRock 2022

Poutine fries from Poutine Brothers at BottleRock Napa Valley 2022. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

Asking a vendor whether the poutine fries at a music festival are “authentic” would be ridiculous anywhere but at BottleRock Napa Valley, the annual music, wine and food festival that features top Wine Country restaurants and Michelin-starred chefs in its culinary lineup.

Quelle surprise — the classic poutine with beef gravy, chewy cheese curds, green onions and crispy fries were on point. Maybe they weren’t as extraordinary as the pastrami-smothered fries from three-Michelin-star chef Christopher Kostow of Loveski Deli and the Restaurant at Meadowood, but they were delightful nonetheless.

Though it’s only been nine months since the 2021 BottleRock in September — delayed after cancellation in May 2020 and 2021 — crowds have returned to hear Metallica, Pink! and KYGO and taste dishes from more than 67 food vendors, down slightly from 75 last year.

More than just cold hot dogs and flat beer, BottleRock’s food lineup includes gourmet doughnuts, paella, lobster rolls and oysters along with craft cocktails, beer and local wines. If you’re going, here are nine to check out.

9 must-try dishes

Black Piglet Back BLT, $19: Toasted bread with ripe tomatoes, lettuce and garlic aioli that will bring you to your knees. The bacon is from John Stewart and Duskie Estes’ Black Pig Meat. Find it in the food truck area.

Ramen Burger, Nombe, $18: A “bun” of fried ramen noodles with a 50/50 Kobe beef and pork belly patty, slathered in miso sauce with blue cheese and buttered shiitakes. A little greenery includes arugula in wasabi aioli, tomato and cucumber pickles. Add a sushi “burrito” with spicy tuna and rice rolled into a seaweed wrap. Near the Williams-Sonoma Culinary Stage.

Salt and Vinegar Chips with Caviar Onion Dip, Charlie’s, $15: This forthcoming Napa restaurant has salty homemade vinegar chips, with onion dip studded with caviar. The caviar premixed into the dip was a bit of a letdown, but for $15, we were satisfied. VIP area.

Loveski Deli Loaded Fries, $18: Though chef Kostow was sequestered behind the VIP gates last year, this year us general admission festivalgoers can try his crinkle-cut fries with gooey white cheese sauce, pickled carrots and pastrami. Culinary Garden.

Root Beer Float, Mariapilar, $8: The float of creamy ice cream makes this drink an after-rocking cool down. Culinary Garden.

Classic Poutine, Poutine Brothers, $14: You know the drill: crispy fries, salty beef gravy and cheese curds. They’re crave-worthy and a perfect foil to those $18 craft beers. Culinary Garden.

Peanut Tofu Nachos at Azalina’s Malaysian, $9: A stomach-filling deal with braised tofu, pickled vegetables and a sweet-spicy peanut sauce atop ballpark tortilla chips. Culinary Garden.

Gerard’s Paella, $20: Heavenly saffron rice, vegetables and a topper of chicken and shrimp made in a giant paella pan. A festival staple and so hearty. Culinary Garden and VIP area.

Glazed Pork Belly Skewers, $18: The presentation of a giant hunk of pork belly on a skewer was more thrilling than the bland taste and chewy texture, but still a fun festival bite. VIP area.

Crooked Goat Brewing Comes Home to Petaluma

Karly Church serves up a beer at the new Crooked Goat Brewing Co. taproom on Howard St. in Petaluma on May 17, 2022. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Many people know Crooked Goat Brewing as a hub for great craft beer in Sebastopol, but what some do not realize is that the brewery has roots in Petaluma.

Before opening Crooked Goat in the Barlow complex in 2016, co-founders Paul Vyenielo, Rich Allen, Andy Erickson, Andy Cook, Scott Tieman and Will Erickson crafted their brews in a small office space behind Pete’s Henny Penny restaurant.

Crooked Goat has come a long way since those early days, expanding its Barlow location three times to keep up with demand. On May 14, the brewery added a new taproom in Petaluma, just west of downtown. To Vyenielo, it felt like a homecoming.

“I was born and raised in Petaluma, and three of my partners are also from here,” he said. “We’d been looking for a second location for a couple years, and it just felt right.”

Paul Vyenielo of Crooked Goat Brewing, outside the new taproom in Petaluma. (Tina Caputo)
Paul Vyenielo of Crooked Goat Brewing, outside the new taproom in Petaluma. (Tina Caputo)

The search led Vyenielo and his friends to an 1880s carriage house at the corner of Howard Street and Western Avenue — only a few doors down from his childhood home. In later years, the space housed a tractor dealership and, most recently, a t-shirt print shop and ballet studio. The partners gutted the building and restored it to its original character.

“We exposed those beautiful bones,” Vyenielo said, “and when we saw the old wooden beams on the ceiling it was just so cool.”

Temporarily operating at one-third of the building’s 200-guest capacity (Vyenielo expects to be running at full steam as of Memorial Day weekend), the taproom is open from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, and from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Sundays. Within the next couple of months, once permits are fully approved, Crooked Goat plans to open for daily business.

Like the Sebastopol location, Petaluma’s Crooked Goat is family- and dog-friendly, with a comfortable neighborhood vibe. The taproom is spacious and open, with bar seating and long tables up front, and a large living room-style lounge area at the back. While Crooked Goat does not have outdoor seating, wall-sized rollup garage doors give the space an airy feel.

Crooked Goat features 18 beers on tap — brewed at the Sebastopol location — plus hard seltzer, zero-proof kombucha and artisan root beer. The brewery specializes in West Coast IPAs, and also offers a wide range of rotating brews from sours to lagers to fruit ales.

Food trucks provide beer-friendly noshing options, and in a few months, once interior renovations are completed, Acme Burger will begin delivering orders to Crooked Goat patrons from its new digs just across the parking lot.

If all goes well with the Petaluma taproom, Vyenielo might just get to quit his day job as a tile contractor and become a full-time Crooked Goat proprietor.

“I’ve been doing tile for almost 40 years now and it’s not nearly as fun as hanging out at the brewery,” he said. “Everybody that comes in has a smile on their face, and they’ve got a smile when they walk out.”

Open (temporary hours) 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday. 100 Howard Street, Petaluma, 707-559 5691, crookedgoatbrewing.com.

Santa Rosa Theater Company Tackles Gun Violence in New Play

Imaginists theater co-founder and actor Brent Lindsay, right, and David Roby during a dress rehearsal scene for “S D A (Someone Dies Again),” a new work that focuses on the role that gun violence play in American society at The Imaginists theater in Santa Rosa, Calif., on Monday, April 30, 2022. (Erik Castro/For The Press Democrat)

Collaborating quietly in their small theater in Santa Rosa’s A Street arts district, the Imaginists experimental theatrical company has been rehearsing a new project of potential artistic and social importance.

Titled “SDA (Someone Dies Again),” the experimental theater piece tackles the issue of guns and gun violence.

Developing the play during rehearsals, rather than from a previously written script, a local cast of 12 has been working for the past two months with acclaimed Hungarian director and playwright Árpád Schilling, who arrived in Santa Rosa in February to start planning the production.

Commissioned by the Imaginists and backed by a $150,000 William and Flora Hewlett Foundation grant, the piece premiered May 20 in San Francisco at Z Space, where the local company has worked twice before, and will continue June 2-11 at the Imaginists’ space in Santa Rosa.

Schilling said the intent of the play is not to deliver a lecture on gun violence but to examine the issue from a fresh point of view.

“We don’t focus on the gun. To have it onstage all the time would be like a Western movie,” Schilling said during a recent interview at the Imaginists’ theater. “Step by step, we formed our topic. We talk about the society behind the gun. We never say we know the answer.”

The playwright and director’s views on guns are influenced by his own background growing up in Hungary, he said.

“One of the strange things in the United States for me, coming from Europe, is guns. It is very rare there to read or hear that something happened with a gun. Here, if you go to visit someone, you can’t be sure if there is a gun in the house or not,” he explained.

He does not profess to be completely neutral on the subject.

“If you have a conflict, and there is a trigger in you, it may be much better not to have a gun next to you,” Schilling added.

During rehearsals, Schilling and the actors have experimented with characters, scenes and story.

“I am not a director who tells people what to do or to do this or that,” Schilling said. “We have given character onstage to be complex. Actors can propose changes, but I want to see good decisions reflected on stage. It’s editing and rewriting at the same time. People to accept that in the end, I decide.”

What Schilling and the Imaginists share is a commitment to developing theatrical pieces through interaction between author, director and cast, said Amy Pinto, artistic director for production at the Imaginists.

“Imaginists is a place that has developed over years of working with community members, emerging performers and professionals. We bring everyone together,” she said.

Schilling, 48, may not be a household name in the U.S., but he has built an international reputation and is respected in theater circles.

Between 1995 and 2008, his Krétakör theater in Budapest became the best-known independent theater company in Hungary and was recognized abroad as an innovative theater. Schilling disbanded the company in 2008 to create a performing and media art workshop called Chalk Circle. Schilling and his family left Hungary for France in 2018.

Founded in 2002 by artistic directors Pinto and Brent Lindsay, the Imaginists theater describes itself on its website as “a performance laboratory investigating the intersection of art and community.”

The roots of the Imaginists go back to 1994 and the performance collective KITUS (Knights of Indulgence Theatre United States), whose vision was a break from traditional and regional theater models. In 2001, the original group disbanded. Lindsay and Pinto went on to create the Imaginists.

What the Imaginists and Schilling share is a dedication to development of characters and stories through the rehearsal process, working with the actors to produce a performance piece.

The collaboration between Schilling and the Imaginists has a long history. In 2013, Pinto attended dunaPart, the Hungarian festival of independent theater, in Budapest and heard a talk by Schilling.

In 2014, Hungarian theater critic Tamas Jaszay took a tour of U.S. theaters in different cities. He saw a production by the Imaginists and suggested they collaborate with Schilling. Later the same year, Lindsay met with Schilling in Budapest and agreed to explore the idea.

In 2015, Schilling and his wife, Lilla, an actor, spent a week in Santa Rosa, meeting with the Imaginists and attending rehearsals, and plans for a collaboration moved forward.

Lindsay returned to Budapest in 2017, and then traveled with Schilling to Slovenia to see rehearsals and the premiere of “EXIT,” a theater piece directed by Árpád in three languages.

The collaboration got its big boost in 2018, when the Imaginists and Schilling received the $150,000 Hewlett 50 Arts Commission for their project. The plan was to premiere the work in 2020, but that was delayed by the coronavirus pandemic.

An initiative of the William and Flora Hewlett Foundation, the Hewlett 50 Arts Commissions were launched in 2017 to celebrate the foundation’s 50th anniversary. The five-year, $8 million initiative supports the creation and premiere of 50 new works from outstanding artists.

In April, another Hewlett 50 project, “Wicked Bodies (Sonoma),” by choreographer Liz Lerman, premiered at the Green Music Center at Sonoma State University in Rohnert Park.

For Pinto of the Imaginists, “SDA” is not only the culmination of a long collaboration, but an opportunity to tackle the important issue of gun violence in a valid and dramatic way.

“There is a gun in the show. It’s a character,” she said. “Even when the gun isn’t there, it’s a presence.”

But for her, the significance of the project goes beyond that.

“International collaborations are rare. It requires a trust, to fail, to learn together, despite all of our differences. And we recognize through this process that whether we live in the same country or not, how do we collaborate? Can we can truly listen to each other?” Pinto said.

“It is good to create something together when we are all coming from very different backgrounds and experiences,” she added. “This language of theater, in this context, is an antidote and an exorcism.”

This article was originally published in The Press Democrat. You can reach Staff Writer Dan Taylor at dan.taylor@pressdemocrat.com or 707-521-5243. On Twitter @danarts.

10 Things to Do in Sonoma County This Memorial Day Weekend

At Spring Lake in Santa Rosa. (Sonoma County Regional Parks)

Haven’t made plans for the long weekend ahead? Enjoy three days of work-free bliss with our list of things to do in Sonoma County this holiday weekend. Click through the above gallery for details and don’t forget to tag us on Instagram (@sonomamag) when you share your weekend highlights.

Charles Swanson contributed to this article. 

Healdsburg Knife Makers Are Bringing an Ancient Art Form Into the Kitchen

In February 2021, Mike Benz and Chris Fracaro formed Seral Wood & Steel. Using reclaimed steel and wood sourced from Sonoma County, they produce hand-forged chef’s knives and kitchen tools of remarkable beauty, implements that straddle the line between utility and art. (John Troxell)

Let’s get the cutlery puns out of the way early.

Mike Benz and Chris Fracaro are sharp, incisive guys who forged a friendship over one shared value in particular: “Chris and I both had this similar distaste for instant garbage,” says Benz, “all these things that end up in landfills, that aren’t meant to outlast us.”

In February 2021, the artisans formed Seral Wood & Steel. Using reclaimed steel and wood sourced from Sonoma County, they produce hand-forged chef’s knives and kitchen tools of remarkable beauty, implements that straddle the line between utility and art. Their knives are designed to be passed down — “maybe even fought over,” says Benz, with a smile — from one generation to the next.

The grain on each blade comes from the fusing of two metals: a stainless steel outer “jacket” and a high-carbon core that can hold a sharp edge. (John Troxell)
During forging, Seral’s knives are heated to 2000 degrees, then pounded with an antique power hammer and shaped by hand. (John Troxell)

During forging, Seral's knives are heated to 2000 degrees, then pounded with an antique power hammer and shaped by hand. (John Troxell)

The two are intentional, deliberate, proudly old-school. The anvil in their Healdsburg shop dates back to 1860. The 7,000-pound power hammer has been around for a century. “Our table saw’s from 1969,” adds Fracaro.

“I absolutely love things that are built well, and built to last.”

Their process is the opposite of mass production. “We’ve mapped it out,” says Benz, “and any way you slice it” – that pun was unintended, he later confirmed – “with all the heating time and tempering and treating and gluing, we can’t make a knife any faster than about two weeks. But we can make a couple of knives during that time.”

Fracaro grew up with “crappy” stainless steel knives “that bent like a spring” – not a good thing in one’s cutlery, he explains. When someone gave him a high-end, Japanese knife, he noticed its rigidity, and how much better it performed. He started cooking more. His next thought: How do I make this?

The first car he owned was a 1970 Camaro. “I’ve always liked to take things apart and understand how they work,” says Fracaro, a graduate of Oregon’s South Albany High School, whose industrial arts program featured a strong metal shop class, where he first welded and worked in a foundry. “I started to grow a passion for metal then,” says Fracaro.

The grain on each blade comes from the fusing of two metals: a stainless steel outer “jacket” and a high-carbon core that can hold a sharp edge. (John Troxell)
The grain on each blade comes from the fusing of two metals: a stainless steel outer “jacket” and a high-carbon core that can hold a sharp edge. (John Troxell)

Benz is a native of Peekskill, New York, in the Hudson Valley. While working at a brewery in Ithaca, he met his future wife, Christine, then a student of viticulture at Cornell University. Their relationship blossomed. After she earned her masters degree, however, she informed Benz that she was moving to California.

Benz had a Sonoma County connection: He’d befriended Natalie and Vinnie Cilurzo, cofounders of Russian River Brewing Company, at a hop farm in upstate New York. “I basically just followed them west,” he recounts, “and they kept me, like a rescue animal.”

Benz joined the brewery, and swiftly rose to become director of distribution and sales. While learning to roast coffee, during what he refers to as his “hobby time,” he met Fracaro, whom he describes as “one of the first friends I made who I could hang out with and not talk about beer.”

Fracaro began teaching his friend about forging and knife-making. In December of 2019, Benz and his wife embarked on a “delayed honeymoon” to Japan, where they visited a family engaged “in the ancient art of knife-making,” Benz recalls.

Witnessing the care and attention that went into the craft, learning how hand-forging heightened the structural integrity of each blade, filled Benz with “a new level of energy for the project.”

A year later, Seral opened its doors for business – after they’d moved Fracaro’s shop up to Healdsburg from Petaluma.

The handles of the knives come from oak, baywood, and laurel trees around the North Bay. (John Troxell)
Much of the stainless steel the pair uses was left over after construction projects at Russian River Brewing Company. (John Troxell)

Two decades in the craft beer industry convinced Benz there was a growing population in Sonoma County of people who expected excellence, “but also wanted to know the story of the passion behind it,” he says. “So many people come here for beer, wine, food, and we have amazing versions of all those things. We wanted to create something made with materials from this area.”

Much of the stainless steel the pair uses was left over after construction projects at Russian River Brewing Company. Benz and Fracaro’s forging process uses two-thirds reclaimed stainless steel, which serves as the knife’s outer jacket. The final third is a high-carbon core in the middle, which allows the blade to take and hold a fine edge. Stainless steel is “tricky and finicky” and best forged in an oxygen-free environment, Fracaro explains. “If it oxidizes, we can’t stick the metals together.” So the metal is heated to 2,000 degrees, then pounded with a power hammer “that smashes it together at an atomic level. “

For blades featuring pattern-welded steel, they’ll repeat the process – cut, stack, and forge-weld each billet, a small, semi-finished rectangle of steel – until the desired pattern is achieved. It’s time-consuming, and results in 30% loss of material. But the results are stunning. The geometry of each knife the pair makes is specially tuned to its task.

Once the billet of steel is the correct size, they commence hammering out the knife shape by hand, on the anvil, forging the tip to a point. After forging the blade profile, they shape the handle. And after cooling, the steel is tempered to the desired hardness.

Fracaro and Benz can work on only a couple of knives at a time; start to finish, the process to make a single blade can take up to two weeks. (John Troxell)
Near the end of production, Benz attaches a polished burlwood handle using an antique mallet. (John Troxell)
Near the end of production, Benz attaches a polished burlwood handle using an antique mallet. (John Troxell)

The handles of the knives come from oak, baywood, and laurel trees around the North Bay. Benz and Fracaro also use cast-off walnut from Cali’Co Hardwoods, a Santa Rosa company that makes gunstocks. The walnut Cali’Co can’t use goes into a pile called Fancy Rejects, “which is going to be the name of our band, once we get that started,” Benz deadpans.

The highest reward, the two say, is the nod of approval from an industry chef. “That’s when Chris and I high-five,” says Benz, “because we know we did it right.”

It’s also deeply fulfilling when they sell knives to home chefs, “and you meet them a year later, and their excitement for handmade culinary tools has skyrocketed. Because once you get one, you never go back. It’s like drinking craft beer. You don’t go back to Bud.”

Benz concludes with a riff on where they see themselves in several decades. They hope to be established figures, “the knife-makers in town.”

By then they might be “a little cranky,” he allows, slightly stooped “from all the handwork we’re doing. But we’re happy. We’re not trying to expand, to take over the world. We’re doing this thing that we care about. And we’re doing it consistently, and well.”

And with a bit of edge.

seralwoodandsteel.com

New Restaurant Replacing Beloved K&L Bistro in Sebastopol

The former K&L Bistro in Sebastopol. (Courtesy of K&L Bistro)

Goldfinch restaurant will be the successor to the recently closed K&L Bistro, according to the owners of The Livery on Main, a forthcoming food hall, coworking and event space in downtown Sebastopol that is operated by the “public benefit corporation” Farm to Coast Collective, a subsidiary of local company The Beale Group.

Farm to Coast Collective purchased K&L Bistro from longtime owners Karen and Lucas Martin in March. The Martins opened their French bistro in 2007 and won a Michelin star the same year for their French staples, like onion soup, Steak au Poivre and Mussels Mariniere.

Despite the restaurant’s ongoing success, the Martins struggled to keep the doors open during the pandemic, often operating with minimal staff. After selling their restaurant, they announced that they plan to retire in Oregon.

Goldfinch will be headed by Nick Izzarelli, formerly with Stark Reality Restaurants and currently the food and beverage director at The Livery on Main.

“Wood-fired, locally sourced and sustainable fare” will be the focus at the new restaurant, which will offer “creative plant-based dishes with seafood and meats as sides,” as well as an “excellent selection of both new and old-world wines,” according to the website. A summer opening is anticipated.

Located at 119 S. Main St., the former K&L Bistro space is just a stone’s throw away from The Livery at 135 S. Main St., but not attached to the 22,000-square-foot multi-use space. The Livery’s food hall will include several micro-restaurants, including El Charro Negro, Taverna Lithi, Cozy Plum Kitchen and Village Bakery. The owners are hoping for a 2022 launch.