Lamb roasted over a live fire with shiso, nori, and housemade ssamjang at chef Joshua Smookler’s Animo. (Kim Caroll/for Sonoma Magazine)
Fledgling Sonoma restaurant Animo has been named one of the best new restaurants in America by Esquire magazine. Owned by husband-and-wife team Josh Smookler and Heidy He, the eatery combines Basque, Korean and Jewish cuisine with serious live-fire cooking in an intimate, come-as-you-are space formerly occupied by a taqueria.
“You’re here for the turbot, which Smookler imports from Spain and dry-ages before gently grilling over burning almond wood, just like at Elkano in Spain (if you know you know),” said Omar Mamoon in Esquire’s Winter 2022 issue. The list of best restaurants represents “what it means to dine well in the U.S. right now.”
Smookler’s boquerones toasts, a must-try dish. (Kim Carroll/for Sonoma Magazine)
At Animo restaurant in Sonoma. (Kim Caroll/for Sonoma Magazine)
Animo opened in Feb. 2022 and, despite the tony vibe, the new restaurant was a moonshot for Smookler and He, who moved their family from New York to California, sold everything (including He’s engagement ring) and put their futures on the line for a 26-seat restaurant that defies precise definition.
Other restaurants noted by Esquire include Haitian eatery Kann in Portland, Oregon; Caribbean-inspired Canje in Austin; Korean-American San Ho Won in San Francisco; buzzy Mother Wolf in Los Angeles and the hi-lo scrapple and fried bologna sandwich menu of Cafe Mutton in Hudson, New York.
Unless it’s raining, the expansive terrace is the place to be at Martinelli Winery & Vineyards in Windsor. (Martinelli Winery & Vineyards)
Zinfandel is often thought of as the quintessential American grape. But, like other grape varieties, it was brought to the United States from Europe.
Determining the exact origin of a grape variety and how and when it journeyed across the Atlantic to the United States can be difficult. The origin of zinfandel remained a mystery for decades until the early 2000s when researchers managed to trace its roots to Croatia’s Dalmatia region.
Research at that time also found that the first zinfandel vine was imported to the United States in the late 1820s by a Long Island, N.Y., nursery owner. The vine cuttings may have come from the Imperial Collection of Plant Species in Vienna, which, in the late 18th century, included vines from every part of the Austro-Hungarian empire, including Croatia.
Zinfandel then made its way west just after the Gold Rush and California’s statehood. (Some accounts claim that Agoston Haraszthy, the pioneer winemaker and founder of Sonoma’s Buena Vista Winery, brought the grape to California.) The European grape variety thrived in California’s Mediterranean climate and soon became one of the state’s most widely planted varieties.
While zinfandel is now made all over the Golden State, it is most closely associated with Sonoma County. Here, warm days and cool nights allow winemakers to produce some of the best zinfandels in the world. The region’s varied terrain, terroir and climate also allow for a variety of expressions of the grape; from light, refreshing rosés to bold, jammy reds.
Click through the above gallery for 15 wineries that offer a great introduction to Sonoma County’s zins. (Remember to call ahead to make reservations as these wineries are popular with visitors.)
Ready or not, the holidays are coming! Sonoma County has always had its own style when it comes to celebrating the most wonderful time of the year. As we count down to Christmas 2022, a spirited new place to sip on a drink can be added to the list of holiday activities.
The Lazeaway Club at Santa Rosa’s Flamingo Resort is putting on its holiday best this year as it transforms into Sippin’ Santa. Similar to the popular Miracle holiday cocktail pop-up at Brewsters Beer Garden in Petaluma, the spinoff combines Christmas and tiki (think Santa on a surfboard). Festivities kick off Nov. 25 at the poolside eatery and run through December.
“I want people who live here to come and enjoy this and not just think of the Flamingo as a summertime hangout,” says Apirada Nititham, Beverage Manager at Flamingo Resort. “We want it to be a destination. We want it to be a tradition.”
The festive Sippin’ Santa (aged demerara rum, amaro, lemon, orange, and gingerbread mix) is one of nine cocktails on the holiday pop-up menu at the Lazeaway Club. (Courtesy Sippin’ Santa)
Nine tropical cocktails, served in kitschy, holiday-themed glasses and vessels, are on the menu. Guests can toast the season with drinks like the Kris Kringle Colada (dark Jamaican rum, Amara, allspice liqueur, lime, pineapple, cream of coconut), Yule Tide (tequila, Applejack, lime, maple-cranberry syrup) and Top Shelf Elf (house-spiced rum, falernum, cinnamon).
Just a month after revamping the Cal-Pacific eatery’s main menu, Chef Chris Ricketts has created a selection of bites to pair with the Sippin’ Santa tropical cocktails. Christmas Ham, a slow-cooked char siu pork belly with grilled pineapple, cherry and clove; Oh Christmas Tree, a pine seasoned fried chicken made with rosemary buttermilk; and Mele Kalikimaka, a Hawaiian sweet stuffing croquette, are a few of the dishes making their holiday debut.
A flurry of decorations are going up in the Santa Rosa restaurant and bar. Along with surfing Santas, ceramic coconuts and festive pink flamingos, poolside snow is on the forecast, thanks to a strategically placed snow machine.
The Sippin’ Santa cocktail menu is first-come, first-served at Lazeaway Club. Dinner reservations can be made online via OpenTable.
The Lazeaway Club is the only Sippin’ Santa location in Sonoma County. The tiki-themed drinks will not be available at neighboring Vintage Space, but the bar and music lounge is planning its own lineup of holiday events, including Christmas Spectacular, Brunch, in Drag on Sunday, Dec. 4.
Lazeaway Club at Flamingo Resort, 2777 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-545-8530, flamingoresort.com
The Scion House patio at Robert Young Estate Winery in Alexander Valley. (Courtesy of Robert Young Estate Winery)
A Modern Mercantile, vintage candlesticks and sterling silver serveware look perfectly at ease alongside modern linens, hand-thrown ceramic pitchers, Zimbabwean gourd baskets, and Smithey cast-iron skillets. It’s this inspired and effortless mixing of styles–old and new, ornate and rustic—that creates Forager’s oh-so-Sonoma design vibe.
The shop is the work of Karen Reul and Elizabeth Pinkham, a creative team who met while working in the tech industry in San Francisco. The business partners have a daily text thread to exchange ideas and inspiration, and all of the finds, including vintage one-offs, are handpicked by the two. For the holidays this year, Reul says they’ll be “leaning into the coziness,” with New Zealand mohair blankets and custom whiskey glasses from a local glassblower.
Steak can be divisive—either you’re team red meat or you’re not. But if you’re going to sink your teeth into a perfectly marbled steak or a long-braised brisket this winter, do it with intention and gusto. Click through the above gallery for some top beef picks in Sonoma County.
Editor’s note: Three Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons landed in the top five of Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of 2024. Here are seven Sonoma County wineries to visit for more excellent Cabs.
Cab is king in Alexander Valley. The area encompasses 32,500 acres, 14,500 of them in grapevines, and boasts more than 40 wineries. Here are seven tasting rooms pouring excellent Cabernet Sauvignons and blends, all of them a 10-mile drive (or less) from downtown Healdsburg. They’re clustered close enough together that it’s possible to visit several in one day. Just make sure there is a designated driver.
Alexander Valley Vineyards
Harry and Maggie Wetzel purchased the historic Cyrus Alexander homestead in 1963, planted grapevines and raised their children there. Three generations of Wetzels now farm the vines, with the young fourth generation in the wings.
Their first Cabernet Sauvignon was bottled in 1968. Visiting here is a throwback to a time when tasting rooms were small and intimate. No fees are charged for the standard Estate Tasting for groups of six or less. Cave tours and barrel tastings are offered, too (call ahead). Reserved seated tastings, vineyard tours and wine and cheese pairings are reasonably priced.
A wide range of wines are produced here, yet when it comes to Cabernet Sauvignon, the ones to try are the Organically Grown Estate ($35, a price that can’t be beat for such high quality) and the “regular” Alexander Valley bottling ($28). Cyrus ($75), a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot, is the flagship wine, in its 26th vintage.
Considering the long history of grape growing and winemaking in Alexander Valley, Hawkes is relatively new to the tasting room game. Stephen Hawkes began growing Cabernet Sauvignon in Alexander Valley in 1972, selling the fruit to Sebastiani Vineyards, Silver Oak Cellars and Verité. He and his son, Jake, began making their own wines in 2002 from the family’s three vineyards.
The best place to taste and acquire them is at the Alexander Valley tasting room in Jimtown. This is a winery with a sense of humor; elegant, unobtrusively oaked Cabernet Sauvignons ($80-$95) and a laid-back vibe that connects with visitors. Try the seated tasting with seasonal bites, or upgrade to a vineyard tour.
High-end experiences have long been the signature of this Healdsburg winery, established by Tom Jordan in 1976. Jordan produces just two wines — Chardonnay from Russian River Valley ($40) and Cabernet Sauvignon from Alexander Valley ($60, an excellent deal for such an elegant, age-worthy wine).
The wines and the multifaceted estate are shown off in myriad ways to visitors (by appointment only). They include estate tours with views, culinary gardens, olive trees, bee hives and farm animals; wine and food pairings from estate chef Jesse Mallgren; vineyard hikes and ever-changing events timed to the season.
1474 Alexander Valley Road, Healdsburg, 707-431-5250, jordanwinery.com
Robert Young Estate Winery
In 1935, Robert Young — at 16 — inherited his family’s ranch upon the death of his father, Silas, and eventually began replacing prune-plum trees with wine grapes. In 1963, Robert cultivated Cabernet Sauvignon and followed that with Chardonnay a few years later. Robert Young’s son, Fred, and his siblings founded Robert Young Estate Winery in 1997.
Although the vast majority of the family’s grapes are sold, the prime fruit is used in the family’s wines. The Chardonnays have a great track record for aging nicely, though the Cabernet Sauvignons are the heart and soul of the winery. The Estate Cab ($62) is sleek in its supple tannins, yet nicely structured. Bob’s Burn Pile Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($100), from a location on the vineyard where Robert Young once burned vineyard debris, and the flagship Scion Cabernet Sauvignon ($72) are beautifully balanced as well. Multiple tasting experiences are offered, indoors and on the patio, with charcuterie and cheese. The Scion House visitor center offers 360-degree views of Alexander Valley.
5102 Red Winery Road, Geyserville, 707-431-4811, ryew.com
Silver Oak Alexander Valley
Many know Silver Oak Cellars for its Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, often a high ranker on lists of most popular wines ordered in restaurants. Usually playing second fiddle was Silver Oak’s Alexander Valley Cab Sauv, even though the brand’s first bottling was a Cabernet from Alexander Valley, released in 1977. Both versions are aged in American oak barrels rather than French cooperage to give the wines lush, soft texture and a hint of vanillin sweetness. Fans are legion (detractors, too).
The Alexander Valley and Napa Valley Cabs are available for tasting — try them side by side — and a library wine is also offered. Walk-ins are welcome; reservations are required for private tastings, pairings and tours.
Ken and Diane Wilson’s winery made international news when it was destroyed in the 2019 Kincade fire. Images of the devastation went viral, with only local artist Brian Tedrick’s giant metal sculpture of a boar named Lord Snort and an original stone wall dating to 1869 unscathed. Within three days of the reopening of Highway 128 south of Jimtown, Soda Rock reopened for tastings, in a tin-roofed special-events barn adjacent to the destroyed structures.
Soda Rock continues to hold tastings in the special-events barn and pours several wines; there are plenty of boldly flavored Cabernet Sauvignons and other Bordeaux-style reds on the menu. They include The Five-Star General ($58), Twisted Rail ($52) and Spur Hill ($45) Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignons. Private tastings and wine and cheese pairings are available.
Jackson Family Wines’s 5,500-acre Alexander Mountain Estate, which hovers over the tasting room from the north, is planted to Bordeaux red varieties and Chardonnay. Old-timers know the estate as the Gauer Ranch, which Jess Stonestreet Jackson purchased in 1995. The wines from the rugged mountain blocks are firmly structured, with a hint of rocky minerality, known to age beautifully for a decade or more.
Several experiences are available, among them seated tastings of single-vineyard wines, library-wine explorations, picnics on the patio and, weather permitting, the Stonestreet Mountain Excursion, a tour of the vineyards with tasting and lunch.
The views are dramatic, as are the Cabernet Sauvignons; the Cougar Ridge ($75) and Bear Point ($100) bottlings are standouts, and the Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($100) is outstanding.
Nothing tugs at a Swede’s gastronomic heart strings like glögg at a winter gathering. Just the thought of this Nordic version of mulled wine — scents of cinnamon, cardamom and cloves wafting through the house — can bring a tear to an expatriate’s eye. Next to the joys of a midsummer celebration, the winter glögg party may very well be one of the most nostalgia-inducing of Swedish traditions.
In Sweden, glögg parties kick off the holiday season in workplaces and homes. Abroad, the craving for glögg is the cause of IKEA pilgrimages. For Swedes, Christmastime hasn’t quite arrived until you’ve become suitably tipsy on mulled wine, paired with “lussebullar” (saffron buns) and “pepparkakor” (ginger cookies).
Now, Wine Country Swedes — immigrants like myself and those 25,128 Sonoma County residents claiming Scandinavian ancestry — can find their favorite warm winter drink at home instead of heading to the yellow and blue big box store in Emeryville or Palo Alto.
But you don’t have to be Swedish to enjoy a glass of glögg! Here are three local places that serve glögg paired with Swedish food and sweet treats this winter.
God jul (happy holidays) and skål (cheers)!
Pair glögg with Swedish food at Stockhome, Petaluma
The only Swedish restaurant in Wine Country will do its patriotic duty by putting on a traditional “julbord” — a family-friendly meal featuring holiday specialties — three consecutive Sundays in December (Dec. 4, 11 and 18, with seatings available at noon and 5 p.m. To-go julbord available Dec. 23. Tickets available online).
Swedish chef and restaurant owner Roberth Sundell will serve house-made glögg with candied almonds and raisins, a variety of pickled herring (mustard, grandma’s classic, saffron and leek), dill-cured salmon (“gravlax”), hot mustard-baked Christmas ham (“julskinka”), ginger-glazed spareribs, Swedish meatballs and more. For dessert, guests will enjoy Santa’s rice pudding and homemade treats. All menu items are made from scratch by chef Sundell, including a pig’s head terrine (“sylta”) and pâté of elk (lantpâté).
Sundell’s glögg — made from a recipe he’s been perfecting for nearly 20 years — will also be served at Stockhome throughout December.
“The secret to making good glögg is to keep tasting and adjusting the ingredients to make sure it’s not too sweet, but sweet enough to taste all the spices,” advises Sundell.
The Swedish chef likes to add vodka, cognac or brandy to his glögg for “an extra kick.” He includes plenty of cardamom, ginger, star anise, allspice and orange peel “to bring out the flavor,” and adds dried fruit (plums, apricots, raisins, dried apples) for sweetness. He emphasizes the importance of heating the glögg slowly and making sure it never boils, as this causes the alcohol to evaporate.
Chef and owner Roberth Sundell at Stockhome restaurant in Petaluma. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)Mustard-baked Christmas ham (julskinka), Swedish meatballs, sausages, ginger-glazed spare ribs at Stockhome’s annual julbord in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
During the holiday season, Sundell has particularly fond memories of working at restaurants in Sweden, where glögg would be served to guests outside as they waited in the cold winter night before going inside to the warmth of the julbord.
The Swedish chef, like many of his countrymen, takes pride in keeping up culinary traditions. While he likes to incorporate foreign and modern influences into his cooking, his Stockhome julbord is a classic holiday meal, the kind you would find in a Swedish home on Christmas Eve (Swedes celebrate Christmas on Dec. 24).
Stockhome’s julbord ($90 per person; $50 for kids 5-12, free for kids 4 and under) has two seating times available — noon and 5 p.m. — on Sunday Dec. 4, 11 and 18. Reservations need to be made in advance by purchasing tickets online at stockhomerestaurant.com. Julbord is also available to-go on Dec. 23. 220 Western Ave., Petaluma, 707-981-8511.
West Wines in Healdsburg hosts an annual glögg party on the first weekend after Thanksgiving. (Courtesy of West Wines)
Sample glögg at West Wines, Healdsburg
Katarina Bonde and Bengt Åkerlind moved from Sweden to Seattle in 1992 and then made their way south to Healdsburg, where they started making wine. Their French-style wines can be found in the U.S. as well as in restaurants in their native country; their 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve was served at the 2010 Nobel Prize banquet in Stockholm.
Unable to buy glögg in the United States, Bonde has been making her own since the early ’90s. After opening the West Wines tasting room in 2011, she has been serving the drink to guests during an annual glögg party that takes place on the first weekend following Thanksgiving (this year, Nov. 25-27).
Bonde makes her glögg a couple of weeks before the party so that the flavors can blend together. In addition to the traditional ingredients — wine, brandy or cognac, cinnamon sticks, cloves and cardamom — she uses dried orange rinds and brown sugar, instead of the refined white version, as this lends extra flavor. She always saves a couple of bottles for the following year — according to Bonde, the year-old concoction tastes better than any other glögg.
“It’s my reserve,” Bonde laughs. But it’s clear that, like all Swedes, she takes glögg-making and drinking seriously. “Do not let your glögg boil,” she warns repeatedly when recounting her glögg recipe. (By now you have come to understand that boiling glögg is a Swedish cardinal sin.)
The annual glögg gathering at West Wines is one of the winery’s most popular events. Quarter Swedes, eighth Swedes; anyone who can claim even the tiniest bit of Swedish ancestry seems to show up for the party, says Bonde. And each year, there are increasing numbers of non-Nordic glögg converts. As is the Swedish custom, Bonde’s glögg is served with raisins and blanched almonds and is paired with ginger cookies, cardamom rusks (similar to biscotti) and other Swedish sweet treats.
Katarina Bonde brings Swedish holiday decorations to her Healdsburg tasting room, including “tomtenissar” (gnomes).
The Healdsburg tasting room is decked with handmade ornaments, which Bonde buys in Sweden. Each year, she brings a suitcase filled with straw yule goats, advent star lights and “tomtenissar” (gnomes) on a flight from Stockholm to San Francisco.
The Swedish gnome decorations are sold to guests throughout the holiday season, in addition to being on display in the tasting room. A word of advice, though: Treat your tomtenissar (gnomes) well. According to Swedish folklore, they act as guardians of the home. If treated well, they will protect your family from evil and misfortune. But the gnomes can also be short-tempered and mischievous. They are known to play tricks — even steal — if mistreated or offended.
The West Wines annual glögg party is Nov. 25-27 from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Reservations are recommended with walk-ins based on availability (last seating is at 4 p.m). $30 tasting fee includes glögg and cookies. West Wines, 1000 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-2066, westwines.com.
Order glögg from Sjoeblom Winery, Napa
Swedish native, winemaker and “glögg master” Mike Sjöblom makes his own version of the mulled winter drink using vintage syrah wine and spices imported from Sweden. In contrast to most Swedes, who tend to use less expensive red wine for their glögg, Sjöblom stresses the advantage of being a little bit more discerning.
“To make good quality glögg, it is imperative to start with a good quality wine,” says Sjöblom, who is one of only a handful of winemakers who use their own wine to make glögg.
The Napa vintner prefers to work with natural flavors: Full-flavored wine (“to bring forward the fruit”) and organic ingredients (“to create the characteristic glögg flavor”) are carefully blended. The use of this process eliminates the need for too much sugar, according to Sjöblom.
In Sweden, there are non-alcoholic versions of glögg. While Sjöblom is “not opposed” to these alternatives, bundling them together with traditional glögg is simply “going too far” in his opinion. Like Roberth Sundell of Stockhome and Katarina Bonde of West Wines, he likes to remind aspiring glögg makers to heat their drink carefully: “Remember, alcohol starts to evaporate at 78 degrees celsius (172 F).”
Those interested in sampling Sjöblom’s glögg every year can sign up to become member of his winery’s glögg club. Club members receive a 20% discount and are guaranteed a shipment of glögg. Non-club members can buy Sjöblom’s glögg for $25 a bottle on the winery’s website.
Purchase Sjöblom glögg at gloggclub.com. 707-363-6035.
Throw your own glögg party
The following recipe is from Katarina Bonde of West Wines, who recommends using a drinkable but affordable red wine. Pair your glögg with Swedish saffron buns and ginger cookies.
West Wines Glögg
Makes 20-25 servings
2 bottles of full-bodied red wine (for example, a fairly fruity zinfandel or syrah)
1-2 cups of brandy or cognac
½ teaspoon cardamom seeds
5 cinnamon sticks (soak the cinnamon sticks in water beforehand to release the flavor)
20 cloves
2 strips of dried orange rind
1 knob fresh ginger
½ cup raisins
1 cup of sugar (brown sugar works best)
For garnish:
1 package regular raisins
1 package blanched, slivered almonds
Mix all ingredients and let simmer in a pot. Do not let it boil since the alcohol will evaporate and alcohol enhances the flavors from the spices. Let wine and spices cool off and pour into empty bottles or some other vessel that you can close. Let rest overnight and reheat when you want to use it (remember not to boil it). The glögg can be saved and used throughout the holiday season.
Serve in small cups and garnish with some raisins and almond slivers per cup. Make sure you also have teaspoons so the guests can get the soaked raisins out when they have finished the cup. They are great!
A renovated ranch house just blocks from the Sonoma Plaza has hit the market for $2,450,000. The 1,600-square-foot home features three bedrooms and two bathrooms and has undergone a stunning transformation from its original 1950s design.
The renovation is the work of Claudia Merkle and Nancy Shipe, who enhanced the dwelling with “beauty and warmth” in mind, while committing to functionality.
Design details, from artful choices of light fixtures and flooring to handmade cabinetry, give the property a bespoke look. White walls make the dwelling look sleek and expansive.
“I like to use light colors in older homes,” says Merkel, who also removed walls in the kitchen and main bedroom to create a sense of spaciousness. Black interior accents and exterior trims offer high-contrast modernity, while stained woods warm up the look.
The property comes with plenty of amenities that encourage outdoor living: a fireplace, a kitchen and wet bar, a handmade fountain, and a large trellis. A no-mow lawn, made up of native grasses, is a drainable, breathable low-water alternative to turf. Low-water plants, like olive trees and pollinator-attracting salvia, dot the property.
Click through the above gallery for a peek inside the home.
For information on this home at 19910 Seventh St., contact Trecia Knapp,415-515-1823, trecia@treciaknapp.com, with Sotheby’s International Realty, 2001 Lombard St., San Francisco, TreciaKnapp.com
A meticulously renovated 1940s home is available on a tree-lined street on the east side of Sonoma. The 3-bedroom, 2-bath home sits on .3 acres and has fresh finishes and opened-up living spaces, creating an airy, tranquil and elegant dwelling. It is listed for $3,495,000.
The 2,312-square-foot home at 770 Austin Ave. was renovated by Sonoma interior designer Rebecca Henley of Rebecca Lynne Residential Design. Henley was committed to preserving the integrity of the original home which, she says, was one of the first to be built on Austin Avenue. She purchased the property from members of the family who built the home. Her goal was to “keep its cottage style but update it for today.”
The property includes a detached 1,100-square-foot garage — a draw for Henley whose father was a car collector.
With a mix of handmade cabinets and the latest design touches — like handmade blue tile in the kitchen and bathrooms and wide oak-plank floors throughout the home — this house is refreshed and ready for the next family to make its own memories here.
Click through the above gallery for a peek inside the home.
For more information about this home at 770 Austin Ave., contact listing agent Jeff Lokey, 559-647-1195, 707-934-2351, Compass Real Estate, 135 W Napa St. Suite 200, Sonoma, 559-647-1195 compass.com
Rebrand of The Sea Ranch Lodge, Sea Ranch, CA Oct 6th and 7th 2020
Sure, there are garlands to be hung and latkes to be fried, but there’s also a special sense of serenity that accompanies the holiday season in Sonoma County. From a weekend getaway to the coast, to meandering through a forest of redwoods, to basking in the glow of twinkling lights, these ten close-to-home jaunts offer joyful, relaxing respite.
Have Yourself a Merry Little Coastal Getaway
There are moments when the Sonoma Coast almost doesn’t seem real. One twist of Highway 1 reveals craggy cliffs, while the next unveils windswept meadows and sandy beaches fringed by churning seas. No matter how many times you’ve done the drive, the sheer immensity of it all remains staggering.
Roll down your window. Take a deep breath. The rest of the world might be hustling, but there’s no reason to be in a hurry in these parts. Losing cell signal and getting lost in the fog only adds to the list of wonderful reasons to come here.
If you need a break during the winding journey, consider stretching your legs at Jenner Headlands Preserve, where even the views from the parking lot are stellar. But as you wind along, it’s when you hit the Sea Ranch that you’ll truly feel that all your troubles are out of sight.
Lodging options are blissfully scarce along this stretch of the coast. Weekend vacation home rentals at the Sea Ranch, known for their natural forms and weathered-wood facades, are an excellent option for those looking to get lost in the beauty for a weekend. Settle into your seaside digs, maybe scope out the perfect spot to bundle up in a blanket to watch the sunset or sunrise, then get outside and get moving.
The Sea Ranch. (Carlos Chavarría)Coastal redwoods tower in a way that makes humans feel very small and very serene. (Carlos Chavarría)
Sonoma County Regional Parks maintains a network of trails in the Sea Ranch; hiking any one of them can instill a sense of calm. For dramatic views of the Pacific that will keep you happily on the move for hours, layer up and set out on the Bluff Top Trail. You can take it as far as Gualala if you’re motivated.
The Shell Beach Trail offers a delightful snapshot of the coastal enclave’s beauty. Less than threequarters of a mile each way, the trail weaves through pines and alongside a meadow with ample opportunities to see birds and deer. Somewhat surprisingly, you won’t find seashells scattered about Shell Beach, but if the tide is down, you can easily lose an afternoon tide pooling. Have a seat on a driftwood log and admire the landscape. You might catch sight of a seal or sea lion, and although peak whale season officially begins in January, you never know when a returning visitor might be lured back into town.
The Sea Ranch. (Carlos Chavarría)The Sea Ranch. (Carlos Chavarría)
Later, make the most of the sweeping seascape in a cozy corner of the recently remodeled Sea Ranch Lodge, a gathering spot for locals and visitors. Grab a cup of coffee from the cafe or a book from the general store, then settle into one of the wooden Adirondack chairs that look out at rocky cliffs that stretch for miles. If a storm rolls in, the fireplace in the solarium will keep you warm. There’s even a record player and collection of LPs to choose from—though you’ll never top the moody sound of the serenading surf outside.
Bluff Top Public Access Trail: 40101 Highway 1, The Sea Ranch. 707-785-2377, parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov
The Sea Ranch Lodge: 60 Sea Walk Drive, The Sea Ranch. 707-579-9777, thesearanchlodge.com
The 1960s-era main building, the centerpiece of Sea Ranch community life, includes a redesigned restaurant, a new café, and expansions to the bar, lounge, and general store. (Carlos Chavarría)Ocean view through a fence at The Sea Ranch Lodge. (The Sea Ranch Lodge)
O Holy Night
There’s something magical about welcoming the start to the season at downtown Sonoma’s Mission San Francisco Solano. The annual holiday open house at the surrounding state historic park centers around a bonfire in the courtyard of the nearly 200-year-old barracks, crafts, storytelling, and live music in the lobby of the old-timey Toscano Hotel.
The tradition of candlelight caroling at the historic mission began in 1986 but evokes a feeling of times long ago. Though plans for this year’s candlelight service inside the Mission’s main chapel are still taking shape, in years past, tickets for the popular service could be purchased in person at the Mission on the Saturday after Thanksgiving.
For many longtime Sonoma locals, it wouldn’t be Christmas without the old-school warm feelings this evening imparts.
December 10. Mission San Francisco Solano and Sonoma State Historic Park, 114 East Spain St., Sonoma. 707-938-9560, sonomaparks.org
Over the River and through the Woods
It’s the quieter season along the Russian River, as summer splashers give way to misty mornings and a peaceful solitude. As we cross fingers for winter storms to bring needed water back to the ecosystem, take a day trip to explore the river’s byways.
Begin along River Road on the deck at Farmstand, the new casual eatery at Farmhouse Inn, and treat yourself to a wood-fired pizza topped with goodness the likes of maitake mushrooms, black truffle-leek cream, and goat cheese.
Consider a post-pizza stroll at nearby Sunset Beach River Park to rack up some steps while soaking in photo-worthy views of Hacienda Bridge and hillsides covered with towering redwoods. From here, you may be able to spot steelhead trout running upstream, especially after a heavy rain.
End your serene ramble along the river with a sparkling wine tasting at Korbel Champagne Cellars, where the historic brick buildings, excellent bubbles, and early winter color in the vineyards make for a serene holiday getaway.
Farmstand, 7871 River Rd., Forestville. 707-887-3300, farmhouseinn.com
Korbel Champagne Cellars, 13250 River Rd., Guerneville. 707-824-7000, korbel.com
Farmstand, the new, more casual gathering spot at Forestville’s Farmhouse Inn. (Aubrie Pick)
All Is Bright
Squeeze the most out of the holidays with a visit to Sonoma Botanical Garden for the Glen Ellen landmark’s first-ever indoor, living botanical exhibition, From East to Zest. The garden’s propagation greenhouse was spiffed up for the show and will be filled with hundreds of rare specimen citrus trees in flower and in fruit. Decorated by Mother Nature herself, the citrus trees brim with vibrant colors and calming scents.
“I think to go into the greenhouse and to be surrounded by all these fragrant fruits, it just feels like an extraordinary plant spa,” says Scot Medbury, the garden’s director. “Plants are such a wonderful common ground for everybody.”
Hold onto the feeling of calm even longer by heading outside to explore the nearly 70-acre garden, with steep trails up the hill topping out at views of the Sonoma Valley.
Meander along the new California Trail to learn about native plants, picnic, and watch for frogs near the ponds.
12841 Hwy. 12, Glen Ellen. 707-996-3166, sonomabg.org
At Beltane Ranch in Glen Ellen. (Beltane Ranch)At Beltane Ranch in Glen Ellen. (Beltane Ranch)At Beltane Ranch in Glen Ellen. (Beltane Ranch)
Silent Night
Find solitude and comfort with an overnight stay in a guesthouse just steps from the vines, now in their post-harvest season of changing colors and dropping leaves. Here are five favorite vineyard cottage retreats: The owners at Forestville’s Enriquez Estate Wines turned an old milk barn into a two-bedroom Wine Country retreat. 5960 Eastside Rd., Forestville. 707-347-9719, enriquezwines.com
DeLorimier Winery has a guest house and two suites surrounded by 17 acres of estate vineyards. 2001 Hwy. 128, Geyserville. 800-546-7718, delorimierwinery.com
Powered by solar energy, the Reeve Wines Villa boasts four bedrooms and three bathrooms, and can sleep eight adults. 4551 Dry Creek Rd., Healdsburg. 707-235-6345, reevewines.com
Beltane Ranch (above) boasts a handful of rooms with perks like clawfoot tubs, French doors, and seemingly endless views. 11775 Sonoma Hwy., Glen Ellen. 707-833-4233, beltaneranch.com
Pezzi King houseguests can soak in vineyard views while soaking in the hot tub. The estate guest house features four bedrooms with ensuite baths and a full kitchen. 412 Hudson St., Healdsburg. 866-4734309, pezziking.com
It’s the Most Wonderful Time of the Year
Like something out of a Hallmark movie, the holidays are the hap-happiest season of all in smalltown Geyserville. Those dreaming of a white Christmas might have their wish granted at the top of Geyser Peak, northeast of town—when a rare spot of winter weather arrives, it’s one of the few places around to pack a snowball.
But even if Mother Nature doesn’t cooperate with some snowflakes, it’s hard not to feel festive while strolling the narrow ribbon of businesses that shape Geyserville’s tiny downtown area. Each weekend in December, Gin’gilli’s Vintage Home makes shoppers’ lives a little sweeter thanks to its hot chocolate bar and seemingly endless supply of apple cider.
A delicate dusting of snow on Geyser Peak outside Geyserville. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)Grilled radicchio at Diavola.
Nearby, the expert mixologists at Geyserville Gun Club Bar & Lounge mastered the art of making spirits bright long ago.
And don’t miss the traditional Japanese hoshigaki display of drying persimmons at Diavola Pizzeria & Salumeria. The orange fruit, strung up above the bar in garlands for all to see, is striking as it dries. Eventually, the dried delicacy finds its way onto the menu in dishes like winter Brussels sprouts with butternut squash, pancetta, and pomegranate seeds.
The window seats at Diavola are the perfect place to grab a bite, stay warm, and watch the Geyserville Tractor Lighted Parade go by.
Always the first Saturday after Thanksgiving, this year parade’s is set to light up the town on November 26.
Geyserville Lighted Tractor Parade, Saturday, November 26, 5:30 p.m. visitgeyserville.com
All Is Calm
Have the weight of the season lifted off your shoulders at Osmosis Day Spa and Sanctuary in the tiny west county town of Freestone. The unique cedar enzyme bath experience at Osmosis, based on Japanese tradition, is the only one of its kind in the U.S.
Find your zen as you’re enveloped in a tub full of comfortably warm, finely ground cedar and rice bran.
The aromatic, full-body compress provided by the cedar relieves soreness and boosts metabolism, bringing you to a state of dreamy, blissful solace. After your cedar bath, enjoy a tea service overlooking the pond and explore acres of exquisitely maintained Japanese-style gardens.
Osmosis Day Spa and Sanctuary in Freestone. (Osmosis Day Spa and Sanctuary)
Getting the cedar enzyme bath ready. (Osmosis Day Spa and Sanctuary)
So This Is Christmas
“Traversing through the redwoods on the Bohemian Highway in December is magical,” says Barbara Gonnella, who owns the landmark Union Hotel along with her husband, Frank. “Upon climbing to the summit of Occidental, lights glimmer through the woods inspiring a nostalgic sense of Christmas.”
There isn’t a bad time of year to hop in the car for a road trip to Occidental—the community’s charm is woven into its foundation. But the celebration shines even brighter throughout the holiday season. Whether it’s walking under the shade of towering redwoods at the Grove of Old Trees or along the darling, two-block long stretch that makes up downtown, Occidental has a way of reminding guests that life doesn’t have to be exceedingly busy to be fulfilling.
Shop for gifts at the local artisan marketplace at Altamont General Store, then reward yourself with a visit to the historic Union Hotel, where come December, the comforting scents of fresh redwood and bay greens meld with the aroma of thousands of gingerbread cookies, minestrone soup, and hot apple cider. Gingerbread stars fill the wood-paneled café, and mistletoe hangs in the saloon. Familyowned and operated since 1925, it’s here that families, friends, and visitors gather to celebrate the spirit of the season.
Impromptu holiday songs often fill the air on weekends and holidays when Barbara Gonnella’s daughter, Gien, takes a seat at the hotel’s beloved piano. Snap a photo in front of the 12-foot Christmas tree, then gather around the courtyard fire pit with a bowl of ravioli or giant meatballs to watch the sun set over the west ridge of town.
Grove of Old Trees, 17599 Fitzpatrick Lane, Occidental. landpaths.org
Linen napkins and handmade wares for sale at The Altamont General Store in Occidental. (Beth Schlanker/Sonoma Magazine)
The Boho Bowl at The Altamont General Store in Occidental. (Beth Schlanker/Sonoma Magazine)
Away In a Manger
Whether it’s feeding hay to a contented cow, or providing belly rubs for a sweet pig, a visit to Charlie’s Acres nonprofit farm animal sanctuary can warm your heart in a way you didn’t realize you needed this holiday.
“We often hear from our visitors that stepping onto our sanctuary with over 150 rescued farm animals gives them a chance to take a deep breath and relax,” says founder Tracy Vogt.
The chorus of animal voices make for a light-hearted, tranquil afternoon getaway. It’s nearly impossible not to smile ear-to-ear as you watch cuddly and sometimes (OK, often!) muddy farm animals living their best lives. A visit here is a respite from the commercialization of the holidays—a perfect outing for families in search of memorable moments.
After winding your way around the farm, settle in at one of the picnic tables for a glass of wine or juice and a beautiful vegan cheese and charcuterie platter. The farm animals make for great company. If you’re lucky, you might even meet Charlie the Chihuahua, the farm’s namesake and Vogt’s very first rescue a decade ago.
Piglets relaxing in the evening sun in their enclosure at Charlie’s Acres. (Robbi Pengelly/Sonoma Index-Tribune)One of the rescued debeaked chickens now living the good life at Charlie’s Acres. (Robbi Pengelly/Sonoma Index-Tribune)
O Christmas Tree
Get outside and into the holiday spirit at one of Sonoma County’s family-owned, you-cut Christmas tree farms. Whether you’re hunting for an 8-foot beauty or are more of a Charlie Brown tree fan, it’s a rosy-cheeked, rejuvenating way to spend an afternoon in nature.
Larsen’s Christmas Tree Farm: From saws and measuring poles, to helpful “lumberjacks” and tree stands, this farm has everything you’ll need. 391 Marshall Ave., Petaluma. 707-762-6317, facebook.com/PetalumaChristmasTrees
Celesta Farms: Dog biscuits are waiting for those four-legged friends joining the hunt for the perfect tree. 3447 Celesta Court, Sebastopol. 707-829-9352, celestafarms.com
Little Hills Christmas Tree Farm: Santa Claus is known to stop by every weekend, in case you still need a Christmas card photo! 961 Chapman Lane, Petaluma. 707-763-4678, littlehillschristmastree.com
Photo by Kim Carroll.Photo by Kim Carroll.
Garlock Christmas Tree Farm: Along with the perfect tree, there are hay rides, farm animals, and handmade wreaths for sale. 2275 Bloomfield Rd., Sebastopol. 707-823-4307, facebook.com/garlocktreefarm
Pronzini Ranch: This farm has two Petaluma locations, but only the Adobe Road spot has you-cut trees. 3795 Adobe Rd., Petaluma. 707-778-3871, pronzinifarms.com
