Sonoma County Restaurant Named Among Top 50 in the US by The New York Times

Plant-based dishes from Little Saint in Healdsburg. (Emma K Creative)

Healdsburg’s Little Saint has been named one of The New York Times’ 50 favorite restaurants of 2022. The plant-based restaurant, operated by Kyle and Katina Connaughton of Michelin-starred Single Thread, opened in April.

“The preparations revel in the produce, rather than just ratcheting up the umami in a quest to conjure animal flavors,” wrote Brian Gallagher, describing the cuisine of the recently opened restaurant for The New York Times’ “The Restaurant List 2022: 50 places in America we’re most excited about right now,” which was published online Sept. 19.

The Healdsburg restaurant, cafe and bar are stocked daily from the 24-acre Single Thread Farm and the 5-acre Little Saint Farm that offer fresh produce year round.

“It may seem like a cheat to open a plant-based restaurant in the Sonoma Valley’s cradle of organic abundance. But it would almost be a shame not to open one, if you had not only a 24-acre farm nearby but also the cooking brain trust of Single Thread,” Gallagher said.

Chilled strawberry borscht, smashed cucumbers with XO sauce and a chocolate tart made with a coconut cream crust were among the dishes highlighted by The Times. Locally, the restaurant has garnered praise for its innovative meat- and dairy-free menu.

“We are incredibly proud of the recognition for the hard work of the team at Little Saint that is so passionate about not only our food and hospitality but the mission to create something new and different within the community,” said Chef Kyle Connaughton.

Chef Bryan Oliver’s Saintly Greens with red wine vinaigrette at Little Saint during Friday’s grand opening in downtown Healdsburg on April 22, 2022. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Chef Bryan Oliver’s Saintly Greens with red wine vinaigrette at Little Saint. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Cocktail from Little Saint in Healdsburg. (Chad Surmick/The Press Democrat)
Cocktail from Little Saint in Healdsburg. (Chad Surmick/The Press Democrat)

Chef de Cuisine Brian Oliver and the Little Saint staff spent months before the restaurant’s opening doing extensive research and development on plant-based ingredients and have made limiting food waste part of their ethos. For example, water from cooked chickpeas is used as a plant-based emulsifier for cocktails or egg-white replacement.

The restaurant and cafe are part of a collaboration between the Connaughtons; designer Ken Fulk; philanthropist Jeff Ubben and his wife, animal activist Laurie Ubben; and program director Jenny Hess.

The 10,000-square-foot building, which formerly housed Healdsburg SHED, also offers live music, art and events, a market, a wine cellar and a bakery.

In the Bay Area, San Francisco’s Abacá (Filipino cuisine) and San Ho Won (Korean barbecue) also were recognized by the newspaper.

Little Saint, 25 North St., Healdsburg, 707-433-8207, littlesainthealdsburg.com

Sebastopol’s Gypsy Cafe to Become General Store and Pie Bar

The Gypsy Cafe in Sebastopol. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

The Gypsy Cafe in Sebastopol is pausing its restaurant service until 2023, amid a worker shortage and supply chain issues. But true to form, owner Shawn Hall will keep the popular spot open with yet another pivot.

In October, the 11-year-old restaurant known for its hearty brunches, lunches and comforting dinners will become Gypsy General Store and Pie Bar.

Gypsy still will serve organic coffee and fresh juices as well as wine and beer at their bar.

Hall has repeatedly pivoted her business through the pandemic, offering takeout food, building an outdoor area and changing Gypsy Cafe’s hours. But a worker shortage and supply chain challenges have forced her to end restaurant service, for now, she said.

In addition to pies, Hall also will sell a variety of vintage items and handicrafts at Gypsy, including rustic salvaged iron pieces, pottery, furniture, jewelry and goat milk soaps. Her Gypsy Cafe Cookbook will be released this fall.

Gypsy Cafe is located at 162 N. Main St., Sebastopol, gypsy-cafe.com. Open 8:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday and 5 to 9 p.m. Friday.

Sebastopol’s Bar B Que Smokehouse Bistro to Remain Open

BBQ Smokehouse Bistro & Catering pork ribs and coleslaw being served during the 22nd annual Sonoma County Cajun Zydeco & Delta Rhythm Festival held Saturday at Ives Park in Sebastopol. September 2, 2017. (Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)

Sebastopol chef Larry Vito has found a buyer for his restaurant, Bar B Que Smokehouse.

We reported earlier this month that the 71-year-old restaurateur was looking to retire and head to Mexico, where his 36-foot sailboat awaits him. He cited increasing labor and food costs, along with the high cost of outsourcing deliveries to companies like Grubhub and DoorDash, as additional reasons to close shop.

At the time, Vito said he would close the restaurant in mid-September after failing to find a restaurateur willing to purchase the 13-year-old business. Now that’s changed, he said, and the barbecue spot “will remain open for the foreseeable future.”

The sale is expected to be complete by November, according to Vito, but he did not offer further details. The restaurant will continue to operate its normal hours in the meantime.

And yes, Vito plans to head to Mexico this winter to sail his restored yacht in Mexico’s Sea of Cortez.

“Since the announcement, so many of our clientele have stopped by, emailed and called to let us know how upset they are about the closure. We are amazed and grateful for their recognition and support,” Vito said.

Bar B Que Smokehouse is at 6811 Laguna Park Way, Sebastopol; bbqsmokehousebistro.com. Open 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.

Pumpkin Patches to Visit in Sonoma County, 2022

The Petaluma Pumpkin Patch and Amazing Corn Maze in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Autumn is in the air in Sonoma County, which means it’s time for leaf peeping, cider sipping, hay riding, and of course, pumpkin picking. The county’s treasured pumpkin patches have plenty in store for this year’s fall festivities, from traditional corn mazes and tractor rides to carnival-like activities and food. Don your autumn attire and get ready for a season of fun, fall-related recreation and all the pumpkins you can carry.

Check out all the prime pumpkin patches open in Sonoma County this year in the above gallery. Do you know of any additional pumpkin patches that are open this year? Send us an email with information.

Sleek, Modern New Build in Glen Ellen Hits the Market. Take a Look Inside

Love clean lines and modern design? Get ready to check all the boxes. A new build in Glen Ellen just hit the market and it comes with many of the most-wanted modern design features. 

The 3,700-square-foot home has three bedrooms and four bathrooms, plus an additional structure of 1,500 square feet. The dwelling sits on 2.2 acres and is listed for $7,650,000. Clean lines compose this modern home, which has true floor-to-ceiling windows that pocket into the wall in the great room for “seamless indoor-outdoor living” and great views. 

Board-formed concrete walls, which mimic wood, offer a weighty visual counterpoint to all the glass. The look is warmed up by occasional spots of stained wood siding, fashioned from reclaimed wood from 100-plus-year-old sinker cypress trees. 

The open concept floor plan connects the kitchen, dining and lounging areas and sets the stage for casual living. Elegant modern furniture pieces and geometric lighting designs cap off the look and infuse sophistication into the less-is-more look. 

Color is kept to a minimum with gray walls and tonal cabinets. Subtle shades of blues are infused with restraint through textiles and art. Warmth is introduced in the palette through small details like gold framing on chairs and the occasional satiny pillow.

The expansive yard has a rectangular pool that mirrors all the angles of the home. The theme of blues continues outside via a similar subtle use color: pillows on the outdoor sofa, and two aqua-colored Adirondaks which provide a playful splash of vivid color. The landscaping is dotted with plants placed in fire-resistant “islands.” 

Other amenities that suit modern tastes include a 444-bottle, climate-controlled wine room, two gas fire pits, a hot tub and solar panels.

This home at 12320 Manzanita Lane in Glen Ellen is listed with Holly Bennett with Sotheby’s International Realty – Wine Country – Sonoma Brokerage. For more information call 707-484-4747, 707-935-2500 or visit hollybennett.com

Cozy Log Cabin with Spectacular Wine Country Views Listed for $1.45 Million

If you’d like to experience Wine Country living in a cozy hillside retreat, a unique property just hit the market in Sonoma County. A log cabin perched on 48 acres in the hills west of Healdsburg, with panoramic views of Dry Creek Valley, is currently listed for $1,450,000. 

The two-bedroom, two-bathroom, 1,504-square-foot dwelling, built in 1998, manages to be both classic cabin and modern home thanks to a few inspired design details. 

The unfinished log walls provide a richly textured canvas for the interior decor. Only a few elements are needed to modernize the rustic design: lights with drum shades, stone countertops, select spots of finished walls, and pretty linens. These details shine against the simple-yet-sumptuous honey-colored wood grain.

The Dry Creek Valley views, of course, take center stage. Windows on all sides of the home offer light and picturesque views. Interior window frames that disappear into the walls yield all the focus to the outdoors.

The backyard elements echo the simple natural design indoors. A rectangular covered deck abuts a pool with matching clean lines. The lounge chairs repeat this simplicity, and the cylindrical log posts of the terrace cover provide pleasing contrast to all the rectangular shapes. The style is effortless yet complete, especially when taking in the views. 

On the exterior of the home, red trim offers a surprising touch of color. The choice is repeated in a trio of Adirondack chairs positioned on the porch for optimal valley viewing.

The home has other cozy cabin features — a wood burning stove, high-ceilings, and an open floor plan — all of which encourage easy, comfortable living. Click through the above gallery for photos. 

This home at 4001 Brack Road is listed with Carole Sauers of Healdsburg and Artisan Sotheby’s International Realty. For more information call 707- 433-6555, 707-433-6555, or visit carolesauers.com

Meet Sonoma Jazz Singer Stella Heath

Sonoma County jazz singer Stella Heath. (Courtesy of Stella Heath)

Singer Stella Heath is an old soul—or, as people like to tell her, “I’m not of my time.” By age 8, she was obsessed with classical singing and piano, preferring her mother’s collection of Ella Fitzgerald and Louis Armstrong recordings to the latest radio hits. As the lead vocalist in a handful of local bands – Bandjango Collectif, Stella & the Starlights, the Stella & Ian Duo – she loves to interpret Swing-era jazz standards, along with French gypsy and New Orleans favorites.

At 34, her crowning achievement to date might be The Billie Holiday Project, a touring storybook revival concert she wrote and performs, exploring the life of the iconic jazz singer – a show that always ends with Lady Day’s ominous classic “Strange Fruit.” Looking ahead, 2022 is shaping up to be an epic year for Heath, not just because of her growing popularity on local stages, but because she’s also expecting twins in March.

Here, Stella talks about music, motherhood and surviving the pandemic.

Surviving the pandemic

I tried to hit the ground running and make the most of livestreams and online concerts. I met a fantastic blues pianist and singer from Cincinnati named Ben Levin, and we did several duets during the pandemic. We want to continue the collaboration since it’s so rare when you find someone’s voice that really blends with yours. I also did a lot of hiking, which is one of my favorite things to do (favorite trails: Willow Creek near Monte Rio, Jenner Headlands and Armstrong Redwoods), and I visited Mt. Rainier for the first time.

Reviving Billie Holiday

I think jazz is this incredible American art form that should be studied and revered in our society, but it’s not. People feel alienated and they don’t understand jazz. People have to be introduced to it. So, connecting jazz to a storyline or a historic figure, an icon like Billie, kind of brings people into it in a different way. And having the pinnacle be “Strange Fruit,” and how it’s connected with the struggles we’re all still facing today, I think is really important.

Singing in different tongues

The language intrinsically brings out different aspects of yourself or your voice. Like singing in French, a lot of the French songs are these melancholic, complex story songs with a whole dramatic arc. Whereas singing in Spanish, it can be very carnal and guttural, like on your sleeve, your heart’s just out there. I love how the language allows you to express different parts of yourself.

On the verge of motherhood

I could have the best-laid plans, but I know it will be totally different once the twins come. It’s a time of transition. I want music to be a part of their lives, so I want to get back to performing and having music around, at rehearsals and all of that. We’ll see how it all shakes out. The last show I have booked on the calendar is March 5, so right now that’s my cutoff.

Sonoma Winery Debuts Striking New Tasting Venue

The Vertical Panorama Pavilion at The Donum Estate in Sonoma. (The Donum Estate)

The Donum Estate in Sonoma is one of the top destinations in the world for viewing contemporary sculptures outdoors. Here, among rolling hills and vineyards, you’ll find an ever-expanding sculpture collection that includes works by artists such as Ai Weiwei, Keith Haring, Jaume Plensa, Subodh Gupta and Tracey Emin.

Now, the Carneros region estate has added yet another reason to make your way to Sonoma Valley.

Inside the Vertical Panorama Pavilion at sunset. (The Donum Estate)

A new tasting space, the Vertical Panorama Pavilion, opened on the 200-acre property in August. As to be expected, it’s a strikingly beautiful venue for sipping wine and taking in the views: 832 colored glass panels come together to form a conical canopy atop an open-air lounge seating area. The glass panels — an interpretation of the changing seasons at The Donum Estate — are in a spectrum of colors that range from an autumnal orange to a springlike emerald green and reflect light like a kaleidoscope.

Three years in the making, the artful new tasting venue was designed by Berlin-based Studio Other Spaces, founded by artist Olafur Eliasson and architect Sebastian Behmann. Along with views of the estate vineyards, it boasts scenic vistas of San Pablo Bay and a sampling of the 50-some, large-scale sculptures that dot the property.

To gain access to the Vertical Panorama Pavilion, visitors will need to make an appointment for Donum’s new three-hour Transcend Experience, which is $500 per person. It includes a tour of the property aboard an all-terrain vehicle and a sampling of five rare, single block, library wines (a portion of vintages made from a single variety of grapes from a single block within a vineyard that have been reserved to be re-released or consumed at a later date).

The Donum Estate wines are paired with dishes like foie gras with Donum plum jam and summer truffles, grape leaf dusted salmon in basil paprika broth, and a lobster tart topped with Tsar Nicoulai Caviar. Guests also take home a gift back, which includes a box of treats from Napa-based Kollar Chocolates, wildflower seeds and lavender products created from the estate gardens.

The Donum Estate offers a few more affordable tasting options, ranging in price from $95 to $175 per person. These tasting experiences don’t allow access to the Vertical Panorama Pavilion, but guests will be able to get a peek of the installation while walking around the property.

The Donum Estate, 24500 Ramal Road, Sonoma, 707-732-2200, thedonumestate.com

Roseland’s Mitote Food Park Gets a Cocktail Bar

Mitote Food Park in Roseland now offers a selection of tequila and mezcal drinks from their cocktail bar. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)

In late August, Mitote Food Park moved to its permanent location on Sebastopol Road. Now, it has an enclosed dining square flanked by a changing lineup of food trucks and vendors.

A small shipping container is home to the new Mitote cocktail bar that sells wine, beer, mezcal and tequila cocktails like La Coqueta (The Flirt), with tequila-hibiscus-strawberry syrup and blood-orange liqueur.

Chicken, vegetables and rice with red mole from the Maria Machetes food truck at the Mitote Food Park in Santa Rosa, Calif. on Monday, July 25, 2022. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)
Chicken, vegetables and rice with red mole from the Maria Machetes food truck at the Mitote Food Park in Santa Rosa, Calif. on Monday, July 25, 2022. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)

We also loved the La Charla, with smoky mezcal, pineapple, cucumber, habanero peppers and lemon juice; as well as the spicy La Leyenda (The Legend), with mezcal and mole syrup. Simple margaritas are $10, and specialty cocktails are $12 to $14.

Don’t miss the churro from La Churroteka, where you can get crispy cinnamon-sugar sticks filled with chocolate, condensed milk or caramel (after 4:30 p.m. Thursday through Sunday).

A pre-ticketed mezcal tasting and food pairing event, Sabores y Saberes de Mexico, will take place 1:30 to 4:30 p.m. Sunday, Sept. 18, at the park. Tickets are $50, available at eventbrite.com.

Natural Wine Bar Coming to Sebastopol

Geneva Melby, pictured, and Ryan Miller will open The Redwood, a natural wine bar, in Sebastopol in late 2022. (The Redwood)

Geneva Melby and Ryan Miller, both alums of Sebastopol restaurants Khom Loi and Ramen Gaijin, will open The Redwood, an all-day wine bar and kitchen at the former Ginger Thai space in Sebastopol.

The Redwood will focus on natural wines, with small bites and wine tasting during the day and a full restaurant menu and wine at night, according to Melby. The announcement of a brick-and-mortar location comes after the pair held dining pop-ups for more than 18 months at Khom Loi.

“When we moved (to Sonoma County), we started meeting all of these natural winemakers, joining this community but realizing that we had to go to SF or Oakland to buy or even have a glass of these natural wines in person,” Melby said. Though natural wines have become more common at places like Miracle Plum, Scribe and Pax, Melby said there’s still plenty of room for growth.

“We just saw that niche and wanted to fill it,” she said.

Salad Nicoise from The Redwood with Albacore confit, pinto gold potatoes, romano beans, olives, tarragon, parsley, 7-minute egg and colatura vinaigrette. (The Redwood)
Salad Nicoise from The Redwood with Albacore confit, pinto gold potatoes, romano beans, olives, tarragon, parsley, 7-minute egg and colatura vinaigrette. (The Redwood)

The field of natural wines, sometimes called low-intervention wines, is expanding. These wines are typically made from grapes grown in small vineyards, processed without additives such as sulfur and fermented with native yeasts. Without chemical manipulation or filtering, the wines take on particular flavors and variations from their growing environment.

The Redwood primarily will sell natural wines from California, Oregon and Washington. A few local natural wine producers they’ll include are Two Shepherds, Jolie Laide and Pax.

“It hearkens back to how wine was made for millennia. People think these wines are going to be funky or flawed, but we want to put these wines in front of people,” said Miller, who will head the wine program at The Redwood.

Most small-production natural wineries are labors of love run by vineyard owners or winemakers, and they don’t have tasting rooms, according to Melby. The Redwood will stock 10 to 15 wines to sell by the glass and eventually include more than 100 wines for purchase.

The restaurant menu will change with the seasons, with plenty of shared plates and Mediterranean flavor, but Melby also leans heavily on cuisines from around the world.

“We make what we like to eat,” she said. That includes cheeses, charcuterie and seafood.

“It has to be food we feel pairs well with the wine,” she said. “We’re defined by the seasonal bounty and whatever we’re most excited about at the time.”

More details about The Redwood and upcoming pop-up events are at theredwoodwine.com.