Tartines at Abbot’s Passage in Glen Ellen. (Abbot’s Passage)
Sonoma Valley is a hub for California history, but the region is far from stuck in the past.
While it’s true that the first-ever state flag flew over Sonoma in 1847 and the California wine industry has its roots in the region, Sonoma Valley is better known today for its laid-back towns, wineries and restaurants. This makes it a prime destination for a weekend escape.
Here are some of our favorite places to eat, drink, and stay in the Sonoma Valley towns of Sonoma, Glen Ellen, and Kenwood — all opened or renovated in the last five years. Click through the above gallery for a peek at the restaurants, wineries and hotels.
Kenwood Inn & Spa
The Kenwood Inn & Spa finished a multi-million-dollar renovation in June, revamping all 31 of the boutique’s guest rooms and suites, as well as the outdoor areas and pool. The new look is all about clean lines, with contemporary furnishings and a natural color palette accented with rich jewel tones.
Much of the property’s original charm remains, including the ivy-covered Mediterranean villa. Upgraded courtyard areas and lush landscaping might just make you feel like you’re in Tuscany. Most rooms include a fireplace and soaking tub, and some have private patios and balconies with vineyard views.
View from a balcony at Kenwood Inn & Spa. (Kenwood Inn & Spa)Cabanas at Kenwood Inn & Spa. (Kenwood Inn & Spa)
Les Pascals
Start the day with a taste of France at the charming Les Pascals patisserie and boulangerie in Glen Ellen. On weekends, locals and in-the-know visitors line up outside the sunny yellow café for authentic French pastries, breads, macarons, and ultra-creamy quiches.
The café gets its name from Pascal Merle—an accomplished pastry chef from France—and his wife Pascale, who manages the front of the house. Order at the counter, then take a seat inside or on the garden patio in the back.
Sixth-generation vintner Katie Bundschu of Sonoma’s Gundlach Bundschu winery originally opened this wine tasting lounge and mercantile in Sonoma, then moved it to a new home in Glen Ellen.
Abbot’s Passage specializes in small-lot wines and intriguing co-fermented blends made with Rhône varieties grown in Sonoma County and beyond. Learn about regenerative farming practices in the Field Blend Experience, reserve an afternoon on the shuffleboard court, or relax with a glass or bottle in the Collective Field Lounge, set among 80-year-old vines.
The Mercantile offers a thoughtful array of local, sustainably made home goods and clothing from female-run businesses.
Bartholomew Estate offers wine tasting, hiking, and picnicking in a beautiful 375-acre park. The estate includes three miles of hiking and equestrian trails amid mature oaks, madrones, redwoods, and vineyards.
Wine experiences range from seated outdoor tastings on the Oak Knoll to Mediterranean food pairings to floral workshops. The winery even offers guided forest bathing—a Japanese meditative practice designed to open the senses to the land—followed by a tasting of Bartholomew Estate wines.
Cider fans won’t want to miss the friendly Pomme Cider Shop, set in a bright and airy space just off the Sonoma Plaza. The shop offers 18 ciders on tap by the glass or flight, plus more than 100 bottled ciders from the West Coast and around the world.
Pomme also carries pét-nats, grower Champagnes, orange wines and more by the bottle. Charcuterie and cheese boards are available for noshing between sips.
This splurge-worthy Basque-meets-Korean restaurant is set in a former taqueria next to a McDonald’s, with a nondescript exterior that belies the quality and personality of the food within.
Seating only 26 patrons, Animo is warm and cozy inside thanks to the roaring hearth that is the focus of chef Josh Smookler’s live-fire cooking. Menu highlights include the whole grilled Spanish turbot, Iberico pork, and the deservedly popular kimchi fried rice laced with Katz’s pastrami.
This fall, Smookler and his wife Heidi He will open an American brasserie, Golden Bear Station, in Kenwood.
Lamb roasted over a live fire with shiso, nori, and housemade ssamjang at chef Joshua Smookler’s Animo. (Kim Caroll/for Sonoma Magazine)Pastrami-kimchi fried rice at Animo in Sonoma. (Kim Caroll/for Sonoma Magazine)
Valley Swim Club
Opened in early October, Valley Swim Club is a New England-style seafood shack from the owners of the buzzy Valley Bar + Bottle in Sonoma.
Lobster rolls inevitably spring to Californians’ minds when someone mentions East Coast seafood, yet you won’t find any at Valley Swim Club. Instead, the menu highlights lesser-known fare like fried whole belly clams and fried oyster rolls, along with ceviche-like shrimp aguachile.
This is a casual joint with a no reservations, order-at-the-counter policy, but if you’re feeling fancy, order the Tsar Nicolai reserve caviar with chips.
Battered Cod Sandwich from opening day at the Valley Swim Club restaurant in Sonoma, Tuesday, Oct. 3, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Just the facts: The only diving at this roadhouse is into a bowl of clams in buttery garlic noodles. Patio-only seating for casual coastal seafood, salads, milkshakes and a classy California vibe. Pair natty wines and tasty porch pounders curated by the Valley Bar + Bottle crew.
Located on the outskirts of Sonoma, the recently opened Valley Swim Club has nothing to do with swimming.
Instead, the casual seafood roadhouse from the owners of Sonoma’s Valley Bar + Bottle offers a deep dive into coastal cuisines, especially those of Baja, New England and Northern California — all favorites of co-owner and chef Emma Lipp.
“It’s what we really love,” she said, explaining the affinity for local seafood-menus from Mexico to New York that she shares with partners Stephanie Reagor, Tanner Walle and Lauren Feldman.
From left, Stephanie Reagor, Emma Lipp, Lauren Feldman and Tanner Walle teamed up to open the Valley Swim Club restaurant in Sonoma, Tuesday, Oct. 3, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
But it was more than an affinity for ceviche and shrimp rolls that sealed the deal for the Valley team to create a seafood-focused restaurant. Lipp said wildly fluctuating prices for chicken, eggs and other meat drove them to focus the restaurant on local seafood, with its more stable costs.
Lipp’s menu includes coastal staples like chowder and griddled, split-topped rolls with juicy fried oysters, shrimp or crab, along with seasonal aguachiles (shrimp with cucumbers, lime and cilantro is a favorite). Pescadillas — a cross between a fish taco and a seafood empanada — are perfect handheld snacks, while bigger entrees include trout a la plancha and a spicy tuna bowl. There also are nods to Japanese and Korean flavors, with nori, kimchi and miso dressing accenting some dishes, and steamed littleneck clams served with chewy, garlicky ramen noodles.
The menu also features several land-based dishes, such as beefy smash burgers and grilled cheese. Plant-based dishes like an Impossible Burger, fried oyster mushrooms and vegan cashew-based queso dip drizzled with smoky macha salsa (another favorite) round out the menu. Additional salads and a takeout menu will be available in the coming weeks.
Cashew Queso with a side of Jimmy Nardello Peppers from opening day at the Valley Swim Club restaurant in Sonoma, Tuesday, Oct. 3, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
A selection of natural wines, a specialty of Feldman and Walle, take a starring role at Valley Swim Club. Whether you’re a fan or still on the fence about these distinctive, low-intervention wines, they provide plenty of opportunity for pairing — especially with fried dishes.
News that the Valley owners would take over the former Delicious Dish space last December created an immediate buzz. In 2021, Valley Bar + Bottle garnered critical acclaim from Esquire magazine as one of the “Best Bars in America,” and the New York Times took notice of Valley Bar + Bottle this past May. Since opening in 2020, the restaurant has received enthusiastic support from Bay Area diners for creative cuisine and an expertly curated wine list and bottle shop focused on natural wines.
Where Valley Bar + Bottle exudes a chic Wine Country atmosphere, Valley Swim Club’s outdoor covered patio — currently the only seating — is purposefully dog- and family-friendly.
Just to be clear, there’s no pool at Valley Swim Club, but blocky wood tables and chairs anchor the outdoor space while tongue-in-cheek signage (“No Swimming”), white clapboard siding and a wall of abstract waves tie together the crab-shack theme. That come-as-you-are ethos extends to the no-reservation model, where jeans- and apron-clad servers bring out dishes, but customers order at the counter.
“We live and work in this community, just blocks from here,” Lipp said. “We wanted a neighborhood place for ourselves and our community.”
Get ready to mukbang your face off at Bonchon Korean Fried Chicken, a South Korean fried chicken chain coming to Petaluma.
A favorite of vloggers and podcasters who stuff themselves silly while fans watch incredulously, Bonchon is famous for its super crispy double-fried chicken with a savory-spicy glaze. But bulgogi fries (a Korean-style poutine), takoyaki (Japanese octopus dumpling), pork buns with katsu sauce, japchae (glass noodles with veggies and stir-fried beef) are other reasons to visit.
The restaurant is slated for the Deer Creek Village shopping center at 429 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma. No opening date yet. Stay tuned for more details and click through the above gallery for a peek at the menu.
Pecan Pie from Sweet T’s in Windsor. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
After a long, skinny summer, we’re ready for some carbohydrate-loading in the form of a slice, slice, baby. Not pizza, but fresh-from-the-oven fruit, chocolate, and even savory pies to kick off the season. Who needs to wait until the holidays?
Click through the above gallery for a peek at the pies.
Best All American—Apple Crumb, Flour Girl
What’s more all-American than tart Granny Smith apples lightly sweetened, spiced with cinnamon, and topped with a crunchy crumble? This pie. So, okay, it gets a little international twist with some Chinese 5-spice, but we’ll still claim this taste bomb as our own. Preorder at myflourgirl.com .
Best Savory—Mushroom Bourguignon Pot Pie, Criminal Baking Company
A vegetarian twist on one of Julia Child’s most classic French dishes, perfect for cool fall days. All of the flavor, none of the beef. 808 Donahue St., Santa Rosa. 707-888-3546, criminalbaking.com
Best Throwback Pie—S’more Mississippi Mud Pie, Noble Folk
Fall sometimes comes a little too fast. Bring back memories of summer with a decadent chocolate and marshmallow pie atop a graham cracker crust. Fluffy whipped cream and a sprinkle of cinnamon class things up. 116 Matheson St., Healdsburg and 539 Fourth St., Santa Rosa. thenoblefolk.com
Best Friday Pie—The Weekly Special, Hazel
Every Friday is pie day at this Occidental restaurant. Co-owner Michele Wimborough’s pies are legendary, ranging from peanut butter and blackberry to Dutch apple and lemon meringue. You never know what she’ll be making, which is half the fun of your pie adventure. 3782 Bohemian Hwy., Occidental. 707-874-6003, restauranthazel.com
Best Taste of the South—Pecan Pie, Sweet T’s
Famous Southern pecan pie served just as it should be—with a crown of vanilla ice cream and a drizzle of caramel. 9098 Brooks Rd. S., Windsor. 707-6875185, sweettssouthern.com
Best Rock ‘n’ Roll Pie—The Elvis, Petaluma Pie Co.
This petite shop has sweet and savory pies of every stripe, but we’re especially fond of the Elvis Pie (peanut butter cream, bananas, chocolate cream, chopped peanuts and whipped cream). This Elvis wants to leave the building with you. 125 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma. 707-7666743, petalumapiecompany.com
Best Pie for One—Berry Hand Pies, Village Bakery
The relocated bakery has handy handfuls of pie perfect for on-the-go. Be a little stealthy, though. Crumbs on the car seat are a dead giveaway that you’re not a sharer. 3851 Sebastopol Rd., Santa Rosa. 707-829-8101, villagebakerywinecountry.com
Old-School Sweetness—Natural Sugar Apple Pie, Mom’s Apple Pie
For those who don’t want a lot of added white sugar, Mom’s makes a twocrust apple pie made with apple juice concentrate to boost the yum without extra sweeteners. 4550 Gravenstein Hwy. N., Sebastopol. 707-823-8330, momsapplepieusa.com
Hendrik Verspecht, owner of Cuver Brewery in Santa Rosa Thursday, August 3, 2023. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Brewmaster Hendrik Verspecht of Cuver Brewing is used to people asking him what makes his Belgian-style beers different from the many craft brews around Sonoma County. “It’s hard to generalize,” he says. “We have beers that range from 3% to 15% ABV, from pale-as-can-be to dark stouts, sours, hoppy beers, and everything in between.”
At the Windsor brewery and taproom, Verspecht focuses on a handful of signature brews: a poetically floral Pepperwood saison made with Meyer lemon peel and California bay laurel; coriander-hued Dobbel Dark Abbey Ale; rich, caramelly Tripel Golden Abbey Ale; honey crisp Bell Road Bohemian Pilsner, and Hoppy Don Belgian IPA.
Hendrik Verspecht, owner of Cuver Brewery. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)Hendrik Verspecht makes signature Belgian-style beers at his taproom and brewery in Windsor. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
The interesting offerings have converted many local beer lovers to the Belgian style, with its typically light body, low bitterness, and yeasty character, often kissed with spicy or fruity undertones. Even Cuver’s IPA is mild, at 6% ABV and welcoming with a harmonious hop blend and ever-so-slightly sweet undertones. “Typical IPAs are very aggressive, so if you’re hopped out, which a lot of people tell me they are, we’re offering an alternative,” Verspecht says. “People want to try something new.”
Hendrik’s father, Jan Verspecht, moved his family from Belgium to California in 2012. In Sonoma, he continued a homebrewing hobby he began back in Europe. But when he couldn’t find Belgian styles locally, he was excited to expand the hobby into a business. “We could import, but the beer suffers from such long transportation. Plus, it’s pretty expensive if you want to have one or two every day, like any good Belgian guy does.”
The brewery crew is tight-knit, including most of the local Verspecht clan and plenty of extended family and friends. “It gets pretty complex, but we all come together,” Hendrik says. “I guess like our beers, we’re all harmonious.”
David Klein, owner of Ambix Spirits, checks the flavor of pear brandy distilling in a traditional Alambic Charentais used in Cognac and Calvados production in Europe. Klein uses the pear brandy in his Pacific Alchemy 1 blended with apple brandy. Photo taken in Sebastopol, Monday, Oct. 3, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
With a doctorate degree in physics and a successful career in electromechanical engineering, David Klein is not your typical brandy distiller.
As the founder of Gener8, a San Jose engineering and product design firm, Klein spent decades designing complex scientific instruments. But when his wife, Zoe Osborne, bought him a home-brewing kit in 1989, his passion for invention led him outside the lab.
“I really consider myself a toolmaker; I absolutely love making things,” said Klein, co-founder of Ambix Spirits in Sebastopol. “My home-brewing hobby really gave me another outlet for that.”
Throughout the 1990s, Klein and Osborne became active home-brewers, eventually becoming beer judges and helping launch the Bay Area’s World Cup of Beer home-brew competition.
Meanwhile, as Gener8 grew, Klein’s increasing responsibilities left him little time for creativity. So in 2019, he decided to take a step back and put his energy into a new endeavor: brandy.
This summer, Klein and Osborne opened the doors of Ambix Spirits, an apple-brandy distillery, orchard and tasting room on the east side of Sebastopol.
“I’ve always loved the rich tradition of apple cider and brandy in the United States,” Klein said. “Not many people know it was popular during the colonial days … because apples grew well and there were few safe, potable liquids to drink at that time. Apple brandy is really a jumping-off point to so many intellectual and heritage pursuits.”
In the three years leading up to the launch of Ambix, Klein and Osborne spent nights and weekends at Essential Spirits, a micro distillery in Mountain View where they built on their beer production knowledge and delved into the art of distillation.
They also planted a 4-acre orchard with more than 200 apple varieties, including many rare, heritage cultivars. The couple planted nearly all of their 1,600 trees, and they expect to add 400 more.
As for which varieties they decided to plant, Klein said that was the fun part.
“I spend way too much time looking for obscure apple varieties online,” Klein admitted. “But my main goal is to find heritage apples with a rich history and strange apples. I’m a sucker for both of those.”
In addition to American varieties, Klein has sourced cultivars from England, France and Spain. He realizes all may not thrive in Sonoma County, so some are for research purposes.
The harvest season is long — from July through November — with different varieties ripening throughout the second half of the year. While Klein and Osborne have had to source fruit from local Sonoma County growers as their orchard has matured, this year marks the first time they’ll be able to produce brandy with their own fruit.
Ambix’s process for making apple brandy begins by crushing one or more apple varieties together and fermenting the resulting juice into hard cider.
The cider is then distilled in Ambix’s alambic Charentais still, which allows for double distillation and a smooth, complex spirit. After aging in French oak for at least two years, one or more brandies are combined to create a balanced finished blend.
“So much of apple brandy’s character comes through in that blending process, it’s amazing,” Klein said. “It’s just like making (scientific) instruments. The creative process allows you to create flavors and characters that weren’t there in the first place.”
Currently, Ambix is producing four products, which are available in the tasting room and on its website. The Founder’s Release Brandy ($45) is a Calvados-style sipping brandy made with a blend of Gravenstein, Jonathan and Golden Delicious apples from Sebastopol and Colombia Crabapples from Washington.
Pacific Alchemy 1 ($40) is a vibrant marriage of apple and pear brandy designed for mixing or sipping. The pears were sourced from a tree discovered on the Ambix orchard.
The Pommeau ($30), a traditional French aperitif, is a delicious marriage of Gravenstein apple brandy and apple juice that has been aged in French oak for two years.
“I like to think of the Pommeau as Gravenstein in a glass,” Klein said. “The fresh, sweet, crisp character of the variety clearly comes through in the juice, while the sweetness is tempered by the brandy and aging in oak. We like to serve it chilled.”
The Cider Royal ($35) is a blend of apple juice, hard cider and apple brandy that’s aged in oak for two years. The result is a complex, apple dessert wine perfect for the holidays.
“You get all the tertiary flavors of the hard cider, the freshness of the apple juice and the richness of the brandy all playing together,” Klein said. “It’s a great dessert wine because the sugar takes a backstage.”
As for whether Klein is enjoying his new career move, it’s a definitive “yes.”
“Launching Ambix is more enjoyable than I ever could have expected,” Klein said. “I love the orchard so much that I need to make a point of limiting my time there so I can make phone calls and do marketing. That has been an unexpected thrill.”
Ambix Spirits, 1944 High School Road, Sebastopol. Open by appointment, noon to 4 p.m. Friday – Sunday. Tastings are $15 and include a short orchard and distillery tour. ambixspirits.com
Ask the locals who live along the Sonoma Coast. It might not be audible, like a siren call or the crash of unrelenting waves, sculpting the rocky shoreline. It might lie somewhere in the light—not just in the way it glows, but in the way it changes, often many times an hour.
Or it might be a feeling you get, as if you’re suspended on the edge of the world, when Bodega Bay is fogged in and you climb a few hundred feet up Coleman Valley Road and sit above the clouds at sunset, watching how the dying light fades not over the sea but over an endless expanse of pillowy fog.
Bodega photographer Jerry Dodrill knows the call of the ocean. One morning, as we drove into Bodega Bay on Bay Hill Road (the same route Tippi Hedren takes when first approaching town in “The Birds”), we parked in a pullout and surveyed the outstretched shallow bay, green with seaweed at low tide.“One of the things that makes the light good is that we’re on the edge of the earth,” he says.“I don’t mean that as a flatlander, but we’re on the edge of land.”
It’s also a metaphor for the people who live here. “I think a lot of us want a sense of wildness,” says Dodrill. “It takes a little bit of grit to want to live out here.”
Photo by Rob Brodman.Photo by Rob Brodman.Photo by Rob Brodman.Photo by Rob Brodman.
I talked to fisherman Justin Monckton one afternoon at Lucas Wharf, asking how he was staying afloat with salmon season canceled and crabbing heavily restricted. He was fishing slime eels—a delicacy, it turns out, in South Korea. Other fishermen gave him a hard time, he said, saying he was scraping the bottom of the barrel. But hauling in more than 250,000 pounds of slime eels a year, he was surviving on the coast.
Growing up near the Gulf of Mexico, I feel the same need to be near the water here in Northern California. I’ve stood on a cliff with my kids at Shell Beach in Sea Ranch to watch harbor seals give birth to pups, then swim with them for the first time. I’ve kayaked off Doran Beach to harvest crab traps, then made paella on the beach with a local chef. I’ve caught rock cod from a kayak off Fort Ross.
And along the flats of Bodega Bay, I’ve watched a father with his arm up to his shoulder in mud, teaching his kids how to look for upwelling bubbles and dig for clams. He taught me how to dig for them, too. So herein lies the challenge: On a trip to the Sonoma Coast, you can drive along Highway 1 and drop in and out of various cafes and shops, eating clam chowder here and crab rolls there, maybe buying some artwork to take home. That’s what you do when you’re on vacation, and it’s a beautiful thing. But along the way, if you look, you can get a more nuanced feel for what’s really going on along the shoreline.
Photo by Rob Brodman.Photo by Rob Brodman.Photo by Rob Brodman.
Those ochre sea stars you can glimpse while tidepooling might be a harbinger of good things to come, like the return of healthier kelp forests. You can find out more when you drop into the Bodega Marine Laboratory on open-house Fridays.
There’s a cliff rock near Jenner Bridge known as The Skywatcher, which sings when the wind hits it just right. Just ask the Kashia Pomo kayak guide who learned it from her grandmother.
Stop off and take a photo of a payphone perched on the edge of a cliff overlooking the mouth of the Russian River— it might be the best view from any payphone in the world.
Secret tunnels under Bodega Head reveal themselves at low tide — and nearby, photographers clustered along the northern edge of Bodega Bay are aiming their lenses at a bald eagle’s nest in a tree across the road.
Know all this, and you’ll have a tiny glimpse into the calling— the calling that lies just below the ripples on the surface. The glimpse into the always changing, always magical Sonoma Coast.
Here’s how to spend a perfect summer by the coast, according to those in the know.
Food & Wine
With chefs Andrew Truong and Liya Lin
At first glance, it might seem odd that Bodega Bay chef Andrew Truong is filleting a farm-raised salmon from New Zealand. It’s a Thursday afternoon at Terrapin Creek Cafe in Bodega Bay—once a bustling fishing port where thousands of pounds of salmon were unloaded on the docks every summer.
But Spud Point Marina is quieter than usual this year, as the local salmon season has been canceled due to past drought years and the effect on breeding populations. It’s a tough situation—but there is still plenty of local seafood for those who like to taste the ocean.
The salmon Truong is preparing is headed into a steaming Mediterranean fish stew, swimming with fresh sole, clams, and calamari in a tomato-fennel broth spiked with white wine, Pernod, and chiles. And later that evening, oyster grower and marine biologist Chris Starbird will drop off a shipment of fresh hatsu oysters. The oyster farm he founded in 2007, Starbird Mariculture, starts these oysters from seed in large tanks perched at the end of Spud Point’s Dock E, before transporting them to mature in the nearby waters of Tomales Bay.
Chefs Andrew Truong and Liya Lin. (Jerry Dodrill)
Truong and his wife Liya Lin have tried other oysters, but find Starbird’s are the best, especially served raw with a mignonette of shallots and Champagne vinaigrette. “The bed of his oysters is perfect. It’s meaty, but still really briny,” says Lin, who is working on a chocolate cake in the kitchen beside her husband. By this point, cooking side by side for 15 years, and raising three kids together back home, they finish each other’s sentences.“We don’t actually think anymore,” Truong jokes.
Over the years, the boom-and-bust restaurant scene on the coast has been as unpredictable as the fishing season, with frequent chef turnover up and down Highway 1. Truong and Lin’s Terrapin Creek has been the one constant. The couple, who met at the Culinary Institute in New York, paid their dues to the San Francisco restaurant scene before finding a former cafe and tackle shop in an unassuming strip mall just off Highway 1. It wasn’t on the water, but for a 45-seat cafe, the space seemed ideal—and fans arrived in droves.
Chef Andrew Truong prepares salmon at his Bodega Bay restaurant Terrapin Creek Cafe. (Jerry Dodrill)Terrapin Creek restaurant in Bodega Bay serves fresh wild salmon. (Chris Hardy/For Sonoma Magazine)
This time of year, rising above the summer salt and tang of shrimp pasta, Monterey sardines, crudo of hamachi, and scallops, one of the most popular seasonal dishes is also one of the simplest: a corn soup. It has only five ingredients—corn, yellow onions, garlic, butter, and salt. But once, when Truong tried to delegate it to another cook, it didn’t turn out the same, which means he’s stuck making it from now on.“I can’t complain,” he says, laughing.
Still working on her chocolate cake (with cream cheese frosting, toasted walnuts and coconut, vanilla bean and caramel sauce), Lin reaches for a tattered, taped-up recipe book that looks like a Harry Potter book of spells.
Truong jokes that it’s from the Pillsbury Doughboy era. “I’ve had this since we opened,” she says, clutching it like a prized treasure.“If I lose this, I’m screwed.”
“It’s the frugal Asian in her,” he jokes. And on they go, keeping up the kitchen banter that will continue well past closing time, and maybe even for another 15 years.
Top picks
Looking for a geographical Terrapin Creek on the map? Well, there’s not one, but as TERRAPIN CREEK CAFE co-owner Andrew Truong explains, “Turtles are very symbolic and lucky in Chinese culture” and “there is a little creek behind the restaurant,” so he and wife Liya Lin just put the two sentiments together. 1580 Eastshore Rd., Bodega Bay. 707-875-2700, terrapincreekcafe.com
Executive chef Ronald Andrade at Timber Cove Resort’s COAST KITCHEN has been turning heads with his monthly five-course Winemaker Dinners series. On July 20, they’ll be teaming up with Saini Vineyards. $175 per person. 21780 Hwy. 1, Jenner. 707-8473231, coastkitchensonoma.com
At FORT ROSS WINERY, chef John Vong likes to mix up the seasonal menu to pair with Pinot and Chardonnay—the two varietals that grow beautifully in the 53-acre vineyard along the high coastal Pacific ridges. A recent highlight: coffee and rosemary-crusted pork tenderloin, green beans, black lentils, and a Pinotage gastrique. Tastings with small bites, $55 per person. 15725 Meyers Grade Rd., Jenner. 707-847-3460, fortrossvineyard.com
Tasting wine at Fort Ross Winery in Jenner. (Fort Ross Winery)A vibrant seafood dish from the restaurant at The Sea Ranch Lodge. (The Sea Ranch Lodge)
Even though salmon season is canceled this year, fishermen are still out fishing for rock cod and halibut. Stop at SPUD POINT MARINA for a walk around the boats and a bowl of clam chowder at Spud Point Crab Co.— and check out the fish counter for fresh seafood to take home. 1910 Westshore Rd., Bodega Bay. 707875-9472, spudpointcrabco.com
You might think of the restaurant at THE SEA RANCH LODGE for seasonal seafood like ceviche and tempura black cod, but just in time for summer barbecue season the new BBQ 42000 is opening as part of a redesign of the café at the Sea Ranch Golf Links course. 42000 Hwy. 1, The Sea Ranch. 707-785-2468, thesearanchlodge.com
More top restaurant picks, from food writer Carey Sweet:
CAFÉ AQUATICA: Live music on a waterfront deck, from-scratch pastries, and yummy, organic bites with a good amount of vegan and gluten-free options—yes, please. We swoon over the toasted focaccia layered with avocado, arugula, everything seeds, poached egg, and smoked salmon. Owner Rachel Kulinski also wows with her rainbow sandwich piled with crispy cabbage, avocado, greens, beet spread, shredded carrots, sliced beets, pickles. 10439 Hwy. 1, Jenner. 707-865-2251, cafeaquaticajenner.com
ESTERO CAFE: The darling clapboard hideaway welcomes diners with delicious, all-day breakfast and lunch, crafted with ingredients from the surrounding area’s farms, ranches, and creameries. Owners Samantha and Ryan Ramey send out a fabulous chicken-fried chicken smothered in country gravy, with two eggs, golden hash browns, and greens (you’ll devour every last bit of the big dish), and thick grilled sandwiches with cheddar and Estero Gold cheese. Save room for pie. 14450 Hwy. 1, Valley Ford. 707-876-3333, esterocafe.com
FISHETARIAN FISH MARKET: Waterfront views are the perfect setting for a spot that specializes in seafood. This time of year, there’s usually halibut, calamari, rock fish, and clam chowder (get it with sweet corn mixed in and served in a gluten-free Mariposa Baking Company bread bowl). How fresh is fresh? Owner Shane Lucas comes from a long line of local fisher folk and sold seafood wholesale for more than two decades before launching his restaurant. 599 Hwy. 1, Bodega Bay. 707-875-9092, fishetarianfishmarket.com
ROCKER OYSTERFELLER’S: Set in the historic six-room Valley Ford Hotel built in 1864, this roadhouse restaurant starts with a saloon, outfitted with Tiffany lamps and a polished mahogany bar. It flows into a farmhouse dining room, then out to a patio populated by lots of cats (that’s west county charm). Dig into the Rocker signature: free-range fried chicken doused in bittersweet Lagunitas Ale-caraway gravy, then add a side of fluffy buttermilk biscuits slathered with molasses butter, plus an order of the best onion rings you’ll ever have (secret: the batter is housemade beignet dough). 14415 Hwy. 1, Valley Ford. 707-876-1983, rockeroysterfellers.com
Outdoor Adventures
With kayak guide Suki Waters
As she unmoors kayaks along the banks of the Russian River in Jenner, Suki Waters takes a moment to look across the water to Penny Island, watching a deer and her fawn walk along the shore before disappearing into the brush.“That’s perfect,” she says.“My name, Suki, means ‘a small deer.’ So I’m a water deer. People don’t realize that deer do swim.”
A few minutes later, we’re beaching our kayaks on the island and retracing fresh deer tracks in the mud flats, marveling at fawn prints half the size of the mother’s. Waters founded the kayak company WaterTreks EcoTours in Jenner to get students and visitors out on the water and teach them about the natural wonders of the Russian River estuary and ecosystem.
Suki Waters, owner of Watertreks Eco Tours in Jenner. (Jerry Dodrill)Suki Waters’ Watertreks Ecotours is located in the Jenner “C” gas station, near Café Aquatica. (Jerry Dodrill)
“Every summer this was my playground,” says Waters, a native Kashia Pomo with Scottish and Guamanian ancestry. As a child, Penny Island was where she harvested huckleberries and made jam, where she dug for clams with a coffee can, and where she caught eels in the river. Waters’ grandmother, who taught her how to harvest wild foods, was born in an Indigenous village on Goat Rock Beach in 1904. And her “Auntie Juanita” caught steelhead and salmon with her bare hands in Jenner Creek, fried them up, and sold them for lunch to workers in Jenner.
Later, as we paddle westward toward the river mouth, Waters points out seals and their pups sunning on the beach by the dozens. In the water, bobbing seal heads pop up for a quick glimpse at the boat and then dive under again.“Look, at 10 o’clock, there’s a young mother, a newborn baby and last year’s pup,” she says.“It’s a beautiful thing to see—these are generations here.”
In July and August, Waters leads popular nighttime bioluminescence tours, when tiny marine organisms called dinoflagellates emit mesmerizing blue and green flashes of light in the water. The natural phenomenon is so sensitive to movement in the water that every paddle stroke glows like a comet tail.“In really strong blooms, you’re throwing giant, glowing phosphorescent balls of light 30 feet behind the boat,” she says.
Near the end of the trip, as we paddle back to shore, Waters shares a story her grandmother once told her about a rock at the top of a cliff near the Jenner Bridge. A cleft in the rock makes it look like someone with a flat nose is looking upward with their mouth open. At just the right angle you can see a row of teeth and a tongue.
“It’s called The Skywatcher, and it sings to the stars,” she says.“And sometimes it sings during the day, when the wind is blowing just right.”
As a little girl, she would ask,“Grandma, what’s he saying?
“I don’t know,” her grandmother would tell her.“If he’s talking to you, he’s telling you something you need to hear. Not me. You’re the one that needs to listen.”
With each guided expedition, Waters is trying to reconnect paddlers with nature. In a sense, she says, like a child trying to hear The Skywatcher, we are the ones who need to listen and heed what nature is telling us.
Kiteboarders launch from Doran in the high-summer breeze. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)Dolphins are a not-uncommon sight in the waves off Doran Beach. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)
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Suki Waters’ WATERTREKS ECOTOURS is located in the Jenner “C” gas station, near Café Aquatica. Bioluminescence tours usually start around July 4 and and reach their zenith in mid-August. 10444 Hwy 1, Jenner. 707-865-2249, watertreks.com
The nine-hour, 15.6-mile hike up to the top of 2,204-footPOLE MOUNTAIN is worth it for the 360-degree panoramic views. Winding through redwood and Douglas fir forests, the hike is part of the vast network of Pole Mountain and Jenner Headlands preserves. 12001 Hwy. 1, Jenner. wildlandsconservancy.org/preserves/jennerheadlands
For experienced bicyclists up to the challenge, a ride descending from the summit ofCOLEMAN VALLEY ROAD, will make for an epic GoPro keepsake video. For something a little more beginnerfriendly, check out Ace It! Bike Tours, offering four-hour Bodega hike and bike tours for $185 per person. aceitbiketours.com
Expert guide Kyle Monte of KAYAK FISHING SONOMA leads expeditions for rockfish, lingcod, and halibut in rigged-out, handsfree, pedal-powered kayaks off the coast of Fort Ross. $300 per person.kayakfishingsonoma.com
Want to see the coastline from a bird’s eye view?HELICO SONOMA offers thrilling helicopter tours over the coast, flying past the mouth of the Russian River and southward over the dunes of Bodega Bay. Flights take off from the Sonoma County Airport in Windsor. $175 per person for roughly 30-minute flights.707-526-8949, helicosonoma.com
Art & Culture
With painter Joe Ferriso
Take a walk in the woods with artist Joe Ferriso, and you can see why he fled the Bay Area for the Sea Ranch three years ago. At one point, as he’s walking under a fallen log, he poses for a photo, straining to make it look like he’s supporting the mossy trunk with one hand. It’s the same playful nature that brightens his paintings.
“I can hear myself think out here,” Ferriso says. Coastal light often dictates where he roams on daily sojourns. If it’s cloudy by the ocean, he might walk down into the river valley where it’s sunny. He always carries a sketch book.
Sea Ranch artist Joe Ferriso paints abstract coastal landscapes in juicy colors. (Jerry Dodrill)Joe Ferriso walks the coast daily, often sketching in a small notebook. (Jerry Dodrill)
This morning, he hikes along a canopied redwood forest trail near the Gualala River. As he passes a vernal pool surrounded by ferns and green mossy trunks, it seems like something he might draw or paint in watercolor. He shakes his head no.
“I just look at this and think, I have nothing to add to this,” Ferriso says. But on regular walks past stark, angular Sea Ranch houses, designed to blend into the landscape in their neutral weathered greys and wooded browns, Ferriso has plenty to add, creating an alternate Sea Ranch universe that comes alive in bright pink houses, electric green skies, and powder blue meadows. “It just feels like they want to be inverted and subverted and filled with color,” he says.
Ferriso’s medium is leftover latex house paint, poured from orphan quart cans he adopts, whether “mis-tints” at hardware stores or from friends and neighbors eager to clear out their garages. They’re perfectly suited for painting houses—but the vibrant hues would get you in serious hot water if you actually applied them to a house in the Sea Ranch, where even exterior wood stains have to be approved.
It turns out, though, that Ferriso’s paintings are just the shot of color and whimsy residents needed in the Sea Ranch, where the average age is in the mid-60s. By turning the aesthetic inside out, Ferriso turned on new legions of fans and buyers. Since a show in April at The Sea Ranch Lodge, he’s sold over 50 paintings. The Sea Ranch Lodge even sells a scarf emblazoned with one of his colorful houses.
A phrase he often returns to is “this will be an adventure.” It’s what the Long Island native said in 2009 when he left Manhattan for San Francisco, where he founded the furniture-art business Anzfer Farms. After getting an MFA at Stanford, he and his wife were raising a newborn and renting in Piedmont when the pandemic hit. Once again,“this will be an adventure” was on the tip of his tongue as they drove up Highway 1, looking at houses.
Living on the coast has been an artistic awakening.“The weather affects my work,” he explains.“But also the natural colors that are here, the flora and fauna. There are all these rich colors that are maybe not so evident unless you’re looking for them.”
“I’m kind of super-imposing some of that onto the houses as a play to see what the emotional resonance is. I know color affects people emotionally, so I’m kind of playing my own experiment. If I didn’t have a curiosity about it, it wouldn’t be fun to make them. The fun comes from saying,‘What if this house is pink and the sky is green?’” Near the end of a hike, as Ferriso talks about the colorful sunsets that paint Sea Ranch windows purple and pink at dusk, he comes around a bend that opens onto a meadow of twinkling blue forget-me-nots.“Now, look at that,” he says, almost beaming.“Who says there’s no color at Sea Ranch?”
Windswept meadows and tall cypresses at the Sea Ranch. (Chris Hardy/For Sonoma Magazine)View of the ocean from Sea Ranch. (Chris Hardy/For Sonoma Magazine)
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Check out the artwork of Sea Ranch resident JOE FERRISO on Instagram @joeferriso. Employing his woodworking skills, Ferriso also makes and sells maple building-block sets called “Jafies Joiners” (jafies.com), which have been kid-tested and approved by his 3-year-old daughter, Violet. joeferriso.com
Just standing in the DODRILL GALLERY in Bodega is an adventure unto itself. Each photo draws you in with limitless depth as light layers cascading hills into the distance or reveals secret tunnels along the coastline. It’s quite possibly the only spot in Sonoma County that can transport you to the coast without actually traveling there. Jerry Dodrill also teaches world-class workshops from Greenland to Patagonia. Dodrill Gallery, 17175 Bodega Hwy., Bodega. 707-377-4732, jerrydodrill.photoshelter.com
Often called “the Hobbit House,” the SEA RANCH CHAPEL is a stunning architectural feat to behold and well worth a stop along Highway 1 as you’re driving through the Sea Ranch. Built by architect James Hubbell in 1985, the allure of this nondenominational sanctuary lies in beautiful stained-glass windows, a natural stone floor, intricate metalwork, and a ceiling embedded with local sea shells and sea urchins. Open 365 days a year, from sunrise to sunset. 40033 Hwy. 1, The Sea Ranch. thesearanchchapel.org.
The swooping roofline of the Sea Ranch Chapel. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)Beniamino Bufano’s Peace Totem soars above the rocky cliffs. (Sonoma County Tourism)
The 93-foot-tall PEACE TOTEM rising above Timber Cove Resort along Highway 1 is a reminder that many of the dreams of peace in the ‘60s are still alive and well today. Also known as “Madonna of Peace” and “The Expanding Universe,” the towering 20-ton obelisk was competed in 1970 by sculptor Beniamino Bufano just before he died. It lies at the center of a 60-foot circular state park, the second smallest in California (the smallest being Watts Towers of Simon Rodia State Historic Park). parks.ca.gov
Nature
With ocean educator Ellie Fairbairn
Ellie Fairbairn finds her daily interaction with the coast and its creatures to be therapeutic. “It’s that good feeling of feeling small,” she says.“And of being surrounded by this expanse, this pure wildness.”
The former cell biologist, who grew up in suburban Wisconsin and didn’t even see the ocean for the first time until she was 12 years old, is now the director of education and outreach at the UC Davis Coastal and Marine Sciences Institute’s Bodega Marine Laboratory, working with scientists who study the teeming biology along this remote section of coast.
Fairbairn is part of a tight-knit community of nature lovers, artists, and seekers—she believes this remote section of coastline “self-selects” for many of the characters who wind up there.
Marine educator Ellie Fairbairn finds her peace exploring along the coast. (Jerry Dodrill)Fairbairn holds a tiny By-the-Wind Sailor in the palm of her hand. (Jerry Dodrill)
At low tide on a weekday morning at Schoolhouse Beach, the briny smell of marine life hangs in the breeze as waves crash into barrier rocks sheltering the tidepools. Bounding from pool to pool in knee-high boots, Fairbairn is very much in her element. It doesn’t take long before she reaches into a tidepool to pull out a colorful, blue-tinted jelly that looks like something you might find in a bag of gummy candies.
“It’s a By-the-Wind Sailor,” she says, holding it flat in her palm. Also known by its scientific name, Valella valella, the inch-long organism has an upright flap that acts like a sail to propel it across the water, like a gelatinous blue sun dial posing as a sailboat. On windy days, they’ll wash up onshore by the hundreds.
“I love tidepool picking, just wandering around and looking under rocks to see what’s out there,” she says, standing on the edge of a pool ringed with green anemones and immovable pink and purple starfish.“It kind of turns everybody into their inner child again.”
As she explores the rippling pools, rich with red, brown, and green algae and different kinds of kelp, she’s encouraged by an ochre sea star she sees clinging to a rock.“They were really hit hard by sea star wasting disease, but they’ve come back well in the last couple of years,” she says. Seeing the sea star is a small, positive sign after a troubling warm mass of water led to a steep decline in bull kelp forests and an unhealthy rise in the population of sea urchins. Sea stars are an important predator of sea urchins.
“The big sunflower stars are near threatened and may be going on extinction lists locally,” Fairbairn says.“We think we lost 99 percent of those locally.”
As she moves from one pool to another, something else catches her eye, and she reaches in up to her elbow to pull out a squirming rock crab.“I don’t recommend this for everyone unless you like getting pinched,” she says, holding up the spidery crustacean by its black-tipped claws.
Back on the beach, she tells the story of a sixmonth spell she spent landlocked.“The first time I saw the ocean after that, I cried. I didn’t see it coming, but I came over this hill and saw the water and tears just started flowing. I would find it hard to imagine being away from the ocean now.”
Seabirds at Salt Point. (Mariah Harkey/Sonoma County Tourism)Stands of mussels and sea stars signal a small recovery along the coast after several years of challenging conditions. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
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Public tours of the BODEGA MARINE LABORATORY are offered every Friday afternoon. Check out marinescience.ucdavis.edu/bml to reserve a spot in advance. Also, in September, Ellie Fairbairn’s Science Uncorked series resumes, paring scientific talks with wine tastings at Gourmet Au Bay, 1412 Bay Flat Rd, Bodega Bay. Find out more at gourmetaubay.com or email scienceuncorked@gmail.com.
North of Bodega Bay, more than a dozen beach pullouts along Highway 1 offer excellent tidepooling. Fairbairn likes this stretch of the coast because it’s accessible to visitors, and several of her colleagues have done research here over the years. GERSTLE COVE STATE MARINE RESERVE in Salt Point State Park and Shell Beach, three miles south of Jenner, are also promising destinations. Tidepooling doesn’t call for much: just a curious mind and a willingness to slow down. To be safe, check conditions first and don’t turn your back on the waves. A small guidebook, such as Ron Russo and Pam Olhausen’s “Pacific Intertidal Life” can help identify what you see.
“Forest bathing is not a hike, but rather a slow, mindful walk in nature,” says Jenny Harrow-Keeler, a Sonoma County certified nature therapy guide. One of her favorite spots for forest bathing along the coast is KRUSE RHODODENDRON STATE PARK. “It’s not a huge hiking or mountain biking destination. It feels like a hidden gem along the Sonoma Coast and is a perfect spot to escape the hustle and bustle of life and tune into the healing power of nature,” says Harrow-Keeler. ecowisdomwellness.com
Ever have an ocean shell therapy massage, one with alternating warm and cool shells to soothe muscles and relieve inflammation? It’s one of many luxe treatments offered at the LODGE AT BODEGA BAY. Also check out yoga, pilates, and meditation sessions. 103 Highway 1, Bodega Bay. 707-875-3525. lodgeatbodegabay.com
Beautiful STARCROSS MONASTIC COMMUNITY is a 15-minute drive inland from Sea Ranch. Every Friday afternoon, visitors can walk the 90-acre property, reconnect with nature, and learn more about this remote interfaith monastery. Their farmstand, where visitors can purchase homemade olive oil and farm produce, is open daily. During the summer, Starcross offers $5 all-you-can-pick blackberries. Bring a lunch; it’s a popular spot for family picnics. Starcross founding member Julie DeRossi says a quiet, meditative nature outing at the monastery can help guests slow down and be present. “It’s a complete sensory experience. When you’re in the olive grove or in the forest among the redwoods, you’re surrounded by and part of something that’s so much bigger than your little preoccupations. It just shifts your mindset.” 34500 Annapolis Rd., Annapolis. 707-886-1919, starcross.org
Coast views at River’s End in Jenner. (River’s End)
Where to Stay at the Coast
Built in the late 1800s, DILLON BEACH RESORT features a handful of quaint cabins on the beach at the mouth of Tomales Bay on the Sonoma-Marin County line. 1 Beach Ave., Dillon Beach. 707-878-3030, dillonbeachresort.com
Perched just up the hill from the Tides Wharf & Restaurant, where Alfred Hitchcock’s “The Birds” plays on loop 24/7 in the lobby, THE INN AT THE TIDES features 85 rooms and a spacious pool. 800 Hwy. 1, Bodega Bay. 707-875-2751, innatthetides.com
Overlooking untouched marshlands and the dunes of Doran Beach, THE LODGE AT BODEGA BAY offers seasonal fine dining at Drakes Sonoma Coast and plenty of options for spa treatments and fitness classes. 103 Hwy. 1, Bodega Bay. 707-875-3525, lodgeatbodegabay.com
Come for the view and a delicious sunset meal, perched atop the mouth of the Russian River, and stay for the night at RIVER’S END, where the vintage cabins promise a “luxe unplugged experience” with “no Wi-Fi, no newspapers, no outside distractions.” 11048 Hwy. 1, Jenner. 707-865-2484, ilovesunsets.com
A perfect spot for watching migrating whales, FORT ROSS LODGE is an ideal jumping off point for exploring Fort Ross State Park, Stillwater Cove, and Salt Point State Park. And in case you want to cook up the fresh fish you caught that day, every room has a grill on the patio. 20706 Hwy. 1, Jenner. 707-847-3333, fortrosslodge.com
Timber Cove Resort’s soaring main hall. (The Nomadic People)At Timber Cove Resort’s Coast Kitchen. (Timber Cove Resort)
Built in 1963 and renovated in 2016, TIMBER COVE RESORT prides itself on rest, relaxation and meditation. Bonus: Every room boasts a record player and vinyl records to choose from. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are taken care of in the Coast Kitchen, 21780 Hwy. 1, Jenner. 707-847-3231, timbercoveresort.com
The bustling hub of Sea Ranch village, recently renovated THE SEA RANCH LODGE is one of the oldest buildings, featuring a general store, cafe, dining room, and post office – and every excuse to walk along the bluffs and start your seascape sojourn. 60 Sea Walk Dr., The Sea Ranch. 707-579-9777, thesearanchlodge.com
Rent a contemporary vacation home in the iconic Sea Ranch. (Chris Hardy/For Sonoma Magazine)Rent a contemporary vacation home in the iconic Sea Ranch. (Chris Hardy/For Sonoma Magazine)
Stay in the Iconic Sea Ranch
In the 1960s, when a team of architects transformed a 5,200-acre sheep ranch into a remote North Coast village called the Sea Ranch, it was a radical idea. Their challenge: to find an environmentally sensitive way to build on this remote stretch of the northern Sonoma Coast, this “beautiful and fragile land,” as one historian termed it.
Forming an unconventional team, developer Al Boeke, landscape architect Lawrence Halprin and architects Joe Esherick, Richard Whitaker, Donlyn Lyndon, Charles Moore and William Turnbull began erecting timberframed houses with high, slanted roof lines and cedar-shingle siding that quickly greyed in the harsh salt air. The look was inspired by the aesthetic of local barns and farms, and blended in with the landscape to allow for unobstructed ocean views.
The Sea Ranch became an architectural utopia, nestled in coastal prairies and clusters of Monterey cedar and pine along a 10-mile stretch of coastline between Stewart’s Point and Gualala. As the far-flung village began to evolve and grow into neighborhoods, it attracted visitors from all over the world. And its designers found themselves at the forefront of a new modernist architectural school known as the “Sea Ranch Style,’ which would be widely copied in the years to come.
Nearly six decades later, the Sea Ranch is still a prized year-round getaway and coastal retreat for families and explorers who walk the coastal bluffs, observe the wildlife, and delicately drop in on a handful of beaches.
Check out vacasa.com and airbnb.com to find available homes to rent in all shapes and sizes.
The 25 oz. Ribeye Steak with bernaise sauce, with a side of Creamed Spinach and Parker House Rolls from Goodnight’s Prime Steak + Spirits Friday, August 11, 2023 on the square in Healdsburg. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Summer and fall are always the busiest seasons for restaurant openings in Sonoma County, and 2023 has been another whirlwind. Click through the above gallery for 24 new or about-to-open restaurants we’re excited about — and this is just since June!
Leave any thoughts of a rushed meal at the doorstep of Windsor’s Maison Porcella.
Co-owner Maud Jean-Baptiste insists you enjoy your meal without racing from one dish to the next. And she’s not afraid to enforce that very continental philosophy through her charm.
“In the dining room, I will be greeting you, pouring water, taking orders, serving and checking you out! It is an experience, not a regular (meal). We like to get to know you and want you to leave our ‘home’ feeling like you just flew to France for a few hours,” Jean-Baptiste writes on the bistro’s website.
Jean-Baptiste takes care of the dining room and bar, shepherding you into tranquil submission with her lilting French accent (she grew up in the countryside near Lyon), plying you with food-friendly French wines and feeding you mashed potatoes with more cream and butter than should be legal.
Chef Marc-Henri makes clear on the menu that wait times for dishes like their feuillete de jambon ($34) take a minimum of 20 minutes to prepare. So, cool your heels and sink into the moment, savoring each bite as the clock tick-ticks away languorously.
Marc-Henri and Maud Jean-Baptiste at Maison Porcella in Windsor. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Maison Porcella, which opened nearly a year ago as a showcase for Marc-Henri’s line of luxurious charcuterie, has slowly expanded — first to lunch service last spring and more recently to a proper bistro open for dinner from 5:30 to 7:30. p.m. Tuesday through Friday (lunch is available from noon to 2 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday).
The lunch and dinner menu includes snacks of deviled eggs ($11), bread and homemade butter ($10) and fish tartare ($17) made from a changing daily catch topped with crème fraîche, shallots and capers.
Bigger plates include the poulet de Bresse ($36) with mushrooms, showcasing the coveted Bresse chicken (highly prized by the French); a signature croque-monsieur ($28) made with soft milk bread, ham and three kinds of cheese; and tourte aux pommes de terre, a crackling puff pastry filled with thinly cut scalloped potatoes and cream ($22). The menu does change frequently, so don’t get too attached to any one dish.
Croque-Monsieur from Maison Porcella in Windsor. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)Rillion of pork belly, with Pork Jus and Salsify Pureé from Maison Porcella in Windsor. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Salads with herbs and bitter greens cut the richness of the larger dishes. A tasty selection of housemade charcuterie includes pates, ham and boudin noir or blanc — specialty sausages that are rare in America.
Menu prices include a 20% service charge, a common European practice that sometimes confounds locals. Go with it. Relax. Enjoy. You’ll get your money’s worth by sharing Jean-Baptiste’s convivial conversation and wine recommendations.
After your meal, walk into the Maison Porcella shop for prepackaged provisions such as pates, French ham, savory pastries, imported wines and bread from Marla Bakery. Jean-Baptiste also has curated a selection of gifts, kitchen items and jewelry for sale.
Just let yourself partake in the very agreeable French habit of eating slowly, sharing a meal and focusing on the enjoyment of food. Work can wait.
Maison Porcella, 8499 Old Redwood Highway, Windsor. 707-955-5611, maisonporcella.com.
Chef Darryl Bell of Stateline Road Smokehouse, one of Wine Country’s most anticipated restaurant openings, will begin a chef residency at Napa’s Oxbow Public Market in late October.
The Kansas City native plans to take over the Oxbow space of Milestone Provisions (which will be closing) and serve a sampling of his forthcoming restaurant menu. Highlights will include Burnt Ends ($18); Stateline baby back ribs ($12); and a salad made with cherrywood-smoked Maitake mushrooms, lettuce, crisped purple rice, marinated chickpeas and lemon vinaigrette ($15). Bell’s permanent restaurant is slated for an early 2024 opening in Napa’s Rail Arts District.
Bell first gained attention for the barbecue sauces he created for staff meals while he worked at Bouchon restaurant in Yountville. Chef Thomas Keller was such a fan he asked Bell to scale up the recipe so he could serve it on his Seabourn luxury cruise ship menus.
Oxbow Market has long been a hotbed for culinary exploration, with restaurant outposts from Hog Island Oyster Co. and Gott’s Roadside to C Casa and Loveski Deli from former Restaurant at Meadowood chef Christopher Kostow. Oxbow Market is at 610 First St., Napa, oxbowpublicmarket.com