With the eyes of the world focused on the Olympics, we are giddy as we celebrate the champions. What to uncork as we cheer the athletes? Knockout wines that deserve a gold medal, of course. Three are $20 and under, and two are well worth the splurge. Enjoy, fellow spectators.
Angeline, 2014 Paso Robles Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, 13.8%, $16. A lovely red from this Sonoma County winery, shy on cabernet sauvignon characteristics but still a knockout. Tasty cherry fruit rides on a surf of bright acidity. Notes of herbs and spice. Lingering finish. Quite a find for the price.
Korbel, NV Extra Dry California Champagne, 12%, $12. The appeal of this bubbly is that it’s well crafted, and it will please those who like a sparkler that’s a touch sweet. A great commingling of citrus and mineral notes. Nice length.
Frei Brothers, 2014 Russian River Valley, Sonoma County Chardonnay, 13.8%, $20. A well-groomed chardonnay that has a remarkable range for the price. Aromas and flavors of green apple, mineral and butter. Toasty finish. This budget chardonnay is impressive.
Lasseter’s Voila, 2014 Sonoma Valley, Sonoma County White Blend, 14.3%, $46. This wine will delight with its citrus notes and refreshing crisp acidity. A kiss of vanilla is in the mix. Top rate.
Rochioli, 2014 Russian River Valley Sonoma County Pinot Noir, 14.5% $60. This is an old style, Sonoma County classic pinot noir. It trumpets red raspberry fruit in its aromas and flavors. Mineral and spice round out this gorgeous pinot. Definitely gold medal caliber.
They’re known as session or lawnmower beers: crisp, uncomplicated ales and lagers ideal for warmweather enjoyment. They go down easy, wet the whistle and are lower in alcohol — 4 percent to 6 percent by volume — than more substantial amber and India pale ales.
As the term “session” suggests, these beers (think Coors and Rolling Rock) are light enough to drink throughout the day without causing inebriation. Most are also watery and simple, insults to the palates of true beer buffs.
To the rescue: six Sonoma breweries that bottle and distribute refreshing beers with loads of flavor at low alcohol levels. They turn lawn-mowing from a chore to a rewarding pleasure.
1. BEAR REPUBLIC BREWING CO: Grand-Am American Pale Ale
It hits the alcohol-byvolume peak at 6 percent for a session beer and is assertively hopped, yet it’s superrefreshing and sessionable, with a rich malty character. bearrepublic.com
2. CLOVERDALE ALE CO: Caroline’s Blonde Ale
In this case, blondes do have more fun. It starts and finishes crisp, with a generous, malty midpalate. Great with Asian food. cloverdaleale.com
3. FOG BELT BREWING CO: Atlas Blonde
Fruity hops, subtle maltiness and a snappy finish are the signatures of this 5.4 percent alcohol beer made by an emerging Santa Rosa brewery. fogbeltbrewing.com
4. LAGUNITAS BREWING CO: Daytime Fractional IPA
Deep flavors of toasted malt and pleasantly bitter hops come at a surprisingly low 4.65 percent alcohol. So very easy to drink. lagunitas.com
Joel Johnson and partner John Lilienthal produce a variety of beers under the 101 North Brewing Co. label. (Photo by Christopher Chung)
5. 101 NORTH BREWING CO: Golden Naked Ale
Don’t let its slightly hazy appearance fool you: It’s a crisp, refreshing beer with a spicy kick on the finish. 101northbeer.com
6. ST. FLORIAN’S BREWERY: 48/96
Named for a firefighter’s 48-hour work shift followed by 96 hours off, this 4.8 percent alcohol brew is bright, refreshing and beautifully balanced in hops and malt character. stfloriansbrewery.com
Aron Levin of St. Florian’s Brewery pours beer for attendees of Sonoma County Beerfest in Santa Rosa. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)
A group of ladies dine at Della Fattoria in Petaluma, on Monday, April 4, 2016. (BETH SCHLANKER/ The Press Democrat)
A group of ladies dine at Della Fattoria in Petaluma. (Photo by Beth Schlanker)
At the beginning of the year, Della Fattoria quietly announced plans to introduce regular dinner service and an expanded dining room, starting with periodic pop-up dinners.
Currently, Della has upgraded from the occasional prix fixe dinner to a full-blown dinner menu Fridays through Sundays. Every three weeks, the menu changes in order to fine-tune the fare and continue running Della’s kitchen through the necessary paces to ensure smooth operation once they scale up full-time.
The famous Della Fattoria Meyer Lemon Rosemary Bread (Photo Courtesy Della Fattoria)
Already famous for features such as their Meyer lemon rosemary bread and honey lavender lattes, offering the ever-challenging dinner service might seem like an arduous task for an already busy bakery. But with a pedigree including stints at The Sonoma Mission Inn, Babette’s and The French Laundry, and award-winning breads, pastries and sold-out Della farm dinners, tapping deeper into Chef Aaron Weber’s talents is the best thing to happen to Petaluma’s culinary credentials since Lagunitas opened its doors.
Della Fattoria started when Edmund Weber built wife Kathleen Weber a wood-burning oven outside the kitchen door of their Petaluma ranch. Today, alongside son Aaron Weber and daughter Elisa Weber, photographer and website, farm, and event manager, the Weber’s breads and pastries garner world acclaim. They were even named Bon Appetit’s Top Ten Best Bread Bakeries in America.
Creamy polenta with poached eggs and vegetables at Della Fattoria in Petaluma. (Photo by Beth Schlanker)
Chef Weber relies on ingredients of unparalleled quality and what he creates with those fundamental elements is impressive. Add in Della’s excellent and affordable local wine list, servers that are always at the ready but never in the way and authentic down-home ambiance, and it is likely that most diners will become enthralled with Della’s delicacies. But take the whole family, because ordering anything less than the full menu is an injustice to your taste buds.
Paying homage to the Webers’ baking roots, the meal is sandwiched by bread. It starts with a selection of breads, coupled with salted butter. At the conclusion of the meal, each guest receives a take-home gift of a small bundle of salted bread sticks, which adds a friendly touch to an already incredible experience.
One of my dinner companions pointed out that anyone can make mushy; it takes attention to detail to cook it up properly. Al dente is the perfection of pasta, and I have never tasted better handmade pasta than Della Fattoria’s.
Another in my group pointed out that there is usually at least one dish on a restaurant’s table that we could have cooked better at home. However, not only was the kitchen’s timing impeccable, with all plates arriving together, beautifully prepared, and perfectly cooked, but every dish was so well thought out, with textures complementing flavors, that our attempt at replication would have surely insulted our palettes.
Last, but certainly not least are the desserts, another of Della’s specialties. The lemon moon is such a surprising balance of savory and sweet that we had to order a second just to confirm its unique and spectacular flavors.
Chef Weber respects his ingredients, but is not afraid to add touches of whimsy to his plating, such as the pretzel-tied green beans that came with our Salmon. Nothing is contrived or over the top. Instead, he lets the bold, fresh ingredients and flavor combinations speak for themselves. Weber’s attention to detail certainly sets Della apart from its local counterparts, and well within range of the region’s pinnacles.
In the world of restaurants, and especially food writing, it is rare to stumble upon the inception of something as spectacular as Della’s dinner service. For the most part, our search for great food, whether familiar or fancy, is a well-beaten path. Nothing seems undiscovered anymore. But Petaluma’s newest dining experience may be more than merely a diamond in the rough. Della’s new dinner service is quite possibly the crown jewel of farm-to-fork locavore cuisine.
Yelp, TripAdvisor, The Food Network, Zagat, Fodor’s or Michelin? It is anyone’s guess which will be the first to “discover” Della’s incredible dinner menu, but they will all likely clamor to make that claim. In the meantime, we can enjoy one of the best meals on the planet, created with whole and hearty ingredients by a family with an unpretentious passion for their work and a commitment to quality cuisine, coupled with down-home friendly service and ambiance.
Della Fattoria is all about the Weber family’s passion for using homegrown ingredients and offering the best dining experience possible. There is nothing garish or gaudy about Della’s food, presentation or service. Nothing is artificial.
Della offers as authentic and genuine a dining experience as one finds at a countryside bistro in Provence, a Trattoria in the hill towns of Tuscany or a neighborhood pub in Ireland. It is elegant and delicious, while remaining approachable and unpretentious, just like the Weber family themselves.
These reds know how to celebrate smoky meat on the grill, and they draw a crowd. The neighbors will invite themselves over. There is simply no way to conceal a great backyard barbecue when uncorking tasty wines.
Here are five barbecue reds that will turn heads:
Monte Volpe, 2013 Primo Rosso Mendocino County Red Blend, 14.5%, $11. This is a style that will win over those who like a straight-forward wine, but one that offers layers of flavor. This red wine has notes of berry, plum and toast. A smart, budget-wise blend to uncork at the grill.
Bucher, 2014 Bucher Vineyard, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County Pinot Noir, 14.2%, $40. A gorgeous pinot noir with bright Bing cherry fruit, herb and pepper. The high-toned tangy fruit is knockout and will cut through the rich flavors of the meat. Lingering finish.
Pitagora, 2013 Sonoma County Red Wine Blend, 13.9%, $30. This concentrated blend is weighted to black fruit. Notes of boysenberry, plum, smoke and spice. A hint of cherry. Nice length. The smoky flavor will make this a great match for the grilled meats.
Matanzas Creek Winery, 2013 Sonoma County Merlot, 14.5%, $28. This seamless merlot is tasty, its black fruit coupled with herbs and spice. It’s a tasty melding of flavors, but its texture is what reels you in. Well crafted.
Amici, 2014 Russian River Valley Sonoma County Pinot Noir, 14.2%, $35. This rich pinot is lovely, with cherry and raspberry fruit up front. Subtle notes of cocoa and mineral follow. Tangy finish. Its bright fruit makes it a striking match for grilled meats.
Executive Chef Bruce Frieseke and Chef de Cuisine Ben Davies at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
You can thank an argument about horseradish for the Deviled Brussels Sprouts at Santa Rosa’s newly-opened County Bench Kitchen + Bar.
In a quiet moment between lunch and dinner service, Executive Chef Bruce Frieseke (who won a Michelin star during his time at the Applewood Inn) and Chef de Cuisine Ben Davies (Petite Syrah, Spoonbar, Mirepoix) sit at an upstairs table at the restaurant explaining one of their signature dishes—crunchy sprouts with the spicy horseradish creme. But not without the backstory of when Davies cleared the kitchen with noxious horseradish fumes in an early failed experiment.
Executive Chef Bruce Frieseke and Chef de Cuisine Ben Davies at The County Bench in Santa RosaExecutive Chef Bruce Frieseke and Chef de Cuisine Ben Davies at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD. Heather Irwin/PD
Determined to prove that fresh, rather than Frieseke’s suggestion of prepared horseradish would prove tastier, Davies put whole chunks of horseradish in a juicer, leaving the staff with eyes burning, throats choking and no one wanting to get anywhere near the kitchen.
“You just couldn’t be in there,” said Davies.
The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
But from the ashes, or more accurately, the pulp, came the idea for crunchy Brussels with whipped horseradish, egg yolks and mayo — Deviled Brussels sprouts — that both chefs eventually created.
Though the two continue to rib each other about Battle Horseradish, that kind of good-natured back and forth, yin and yang, trial and error that make for a unique relationship that seems to be working at this upscale-casual American eatery.
Farro and ham hock at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
Two Chefs Walk Into A Burger Bar
Davies wasn’t looking for a job when he ran into the Michelin-starred Frieseke in downtown Santa Rosa last fall. After a car crash, he was taking time off from the brutal hours he’d spent in high-profile restaurants in Napa and Sonoma and considering opening a restaurant of his own.
Call it fate, kismet or just random chance, but at that exact moment Frieseke happened to need a chef de cuisine at that moment for a new project, at that time called Craft 535 Kitchen + Bar. The upscale “New American” eatery would be part of restaurateur Sonu Chandi’s expanding Santa Rosa portfolio, which includes several Mountain Mike’s pizzerias, Stout Brothers and the then-yet-to-open Bibi’s Burger Bar that are part of Chandi Restaurant Group.
But there was a kicker: Before Frieseke and Davis could get to work on the chef-inspired restaurant, soon to be renamed County Bench, Chandi needed the two to help open a burger-focused restaurant. The two had their work cut out.
Croque Madame at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
“It was a full court press for six weeks of ten hour days in the restaurant,” said Davies. The restaurant now operates pretty much on its own with cooks implementing their opening menu.
In the spring, the two got down to serious work on the menu for County Bench, which opened in May.
Having spent nearly a year together planning menus, working through construction, hiring and training staff, and spending long days in thekitchen, both chefs seem truly happy to be working together in a custom-designed kitchen, making the food they want to make.
“We’re just two chefs having fun,” says Davies, who isn’t prone to overly-sentimental conversation. “I’m not stressed and freaking out all the time,” he adds. “You can see it in the food. It’s the combination of both of our backgrounds and experiences. We’re not going anywhere,” said Davies.
Quinoa cracker with salmon and serranos at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
What’s On The Menu
A mix of small plates and shareable entrees, County Bench is the kind of spot where you can stop in for a bite and a cocktail, have a light lunch, or sit down for some serious grub for brunch or dinner.
Among the shareable dishes: The three-finger thick ribeye ($70). Though some folks reel at the price tag, it’s meant to be divided up among two to four people. In fact, Freiseke says it’s his favorite dish on the menu.
“Look, when you cook a giant piece of meat, it’s amazing, rather than some skinny little piece,” said Frieseke. Along with the ribeye are other dishes meant to be shared: Chicken thighs in pimenton with chorizo and chick peas ($29) or braised lamb shank ($36) with cocoa nibs (reminiscent of a dish at Frieseke’s time as chef at Applewood Inn).
Brussels sprouts at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
The small plates and appetizers leave more room for experimentation, ranging in price from $4 to $14 (with specials during Happy Hour). Favorites include:
– Popcorn + corn ($4): More than just a bowl of popcorn, it’s dusted with freeze-dried corn, salt and cayenne. Crave-worthy.
– Plated Quinoa Crackers ($8): Housemade crackers with cured salmon and serrano sour cream (also vegetarian with avocado and sumac)
– Crispy chicken drumsticks ($8): Covered with sweet chili sauce and black sesame seeds, we dare you not to devour these.
– Cauliflower, brown butter and braised oxtail ($8): So simple. So amazing. Order it.
Popcorn + corn at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
Bigger Bites:
– Farro and Ham Hock Salad ($14): Fresh favas, radishes and asparagus (or whatever happens to be in season), make this a healthy, filling lunch or dinner accompaniment.
– Ranch Bowl ($22): It’s hard not to clap with glee at this little house party of steak, pork, steamed greens, cabbage, beets and jasmine rice.
Dessert at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
Leave plenty of room for dessert, since pastry chef Victoria Madrigal always has something impressive on the menu. In fact, leave room for a couple of desserts.
Cocktails at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
More Than Just Food
Though Frieseke and Davies have the spotlight at the restaurant, there are several other high-profile players that have influenced their menu. Chris John, the former sommelier for Cyrus Restaurant, created a wine list that’s exceptional both for Santa Rosa and Sonoma County. There are four small production wines on tap, along with a novel-sized wine list that focuses on a few classic regions, with a depth of vintages. Paul Ammerman, who relocated from NYC, is obsessive about the restaurant’s craft cocktail program, and you’ll find incredibly unique offerings on the constantly changing cocktail menu.
“Once we saw the wine list, we said, ‘Oh, the food really has to match the level of the wine list and cocktail program,” said Davies.
Dessert at The County Bench in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
With a slow and steady start as the staff is trained and the dishes continue to evolve they’re reaching that goal, with an ever-changing lineup of dishes inspired by Sonoma County’s seasons, a little horseradish and two chefs having fun in the kitchen.
The County Bench Kitchen + Bar, 535 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 535-0700. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Friday from 11:30a.m. to 2:30p.m. and 5 to 11p.m (12:30a.m. on Friday).; Dinner Saturday – Monday; Brunch from 10a.m. to 2p.m. Sunday. thecountybench.com.
Chefs Charlie Palmer and Scott Romano at Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg. Photo: Paige Green.
Chef Charlie Palmer is looking back to look forward at Dry Creek Kitchen.
Taking over the reigns of Palmer’s Healdsburg restaurant is 12-year Charlie Palmer Restaurant Group veteran Scott Romano. In addition to working at 5 Palmer restaurants, including Aureole in NYC, his friendship with Chef Palmer spans two decades.
“It’s a nearly 20-year friendship that has survived several restaurant openings, hot kitchens, many a hunting trip, and countless meals and glasses of wine,” said Palmer. It also includes several guest chef appearances at Palmer’s signature event, Pigs & Pinot as well as surviving Romano’s departure from the group several years ago.
Sautéed White Sea Bass with Crisp Zucchini Flower, Sweet Corn Purée and Corn-Shishito Chutney at Dry Creek Kitchen. Heather Irwin/PD
“There’s a unique quality to Scottie. He has the soul of a chef. There are a lot of good chefs, but not all of them have the soul of a chef — the love of food and a constant yearning to learn more. ”
– Charlie Palmer
“I’ve been working on getting Scott back into the family for years, knowing his maturity and experience would bring us to new levels,” said Palmer. “His kitchen and cooking style lends itself naturally to DCK and I’m thrilled to have my hunting partner back in this part of the country.”
As both employee and longtime friend to Palmer, Romano has an ease with the multi-Michelin starred chef that’s reassuring to the future of the Healdsburg restaurant after the departure of Dustin Valette (who left in 2014 to open Valette) and a less than one year stay by Chef Andrew Wilson.
Dry Creek Peach + Heirloom Tomato Salad with Bellwether Ricotta, Pickled Red Onions and Rustic Toast at Dry Creek Kitchen. Heather Irwin/PD
That easy rapport shows, with the two working hard to reimagine some of the restaurant’s signature dishes like the Oz Family Farm Rabbit Tortellini, Dry Creek Peach and Heirloom Tomato Salad with Bellwether Ricotta and Sauteed White Sea Bass with Sweet Corn Puree.
“We’re looking back at iconic dishes from all the restaurants,” said Palmer, who currently owns 17 restaurants, with at least one more on the way at the Archer Hotel in Napa (opening 2017). “And we’re adapting them to California,” he said.
The two are also doing monthly “Reflective Menu” dishes that pull from Palmer’s past, including Pepper Seared Bob White Quail with Savory Corn and Sweetbread Pudding that appeared on the 1998 menu of Aureole (served Aug. 8-21, 2016 at DCK)
Though Romano isn’t from the area, he’s already jumped into the fray, with his wife (also in the restaurant biz) planting a culinary garden at their Healdsburg home, and spending many mornings meeting with farmers and purveyors who supply the restaurant.
“There’s a unique quality to Scottie. He has the soul of a chef,” said Palmer. “There are a lot of good chefs, but not all of them have the soul of a chef — the love of food and a constant yearning to learn more,” he said.
Oz Family Farm Rabbit Tortellini with Pea Variations, Carrot and Shaved Pecorino . Heather Irwin/PD
Romano’s culinary start was humble, doing dishes at a pizza parlor in New Jersey, and graduating to a line cook at Romano’s Macaroni Grill (no relation). As a culinary student, Romano chose to stage at Aureole, and Palmer saw promise in the young cook.
Now, the promise has landed him at one of Palmer’s flagship restaurants. And both chefs seem happy to be back together, and happy to be cooking in Wine Country.
“People love eating here in Wine Country, and I’m looking forward to being part of that,” said Romano.
Helen Putnam Regional Park in Petaluma. (Photo Courtesy panoramio.com)
Helen Putnam Regional Park is located in the Petaluma countryside two miles southwest of downtown. The 216-acre park lies across rolling open meadows punctuated by mature oak savannah.
The park also includes a shaded picnic area, playground, and a fishing pond. Hiking, biking and equestrian trails wind through the hills, with panoramic vistas of southern Sonoma County and northern Marin County. Eight well-marked trails wind through the park. This route follows the park’s perimeter and visits Fish Pond. Dogs are permitted on leash, no longer than 6 feet. License required.
Helen Putnam Regional Park. (Photo Courtesy alltrails.com)
To the Trailhead
411 Chileno Valley Road, Petaluma
38.212608, -122.664466
From Highway 101 in Petaluma, exit on Washington Street. Drive one mile southwest to Petaluma Boulevard. Turn left and go one block to Western Avenue. Turn right and continue 1.8 miles to Chileno Valley Road. Turn left and drive 0.8 miles to the posted park entrance. Turn left into the parking lot. A parking fee is required.
Helen Putnam Regional Park. (Photo Courtesy shiftingthebalance.com)
The Hike
From the far end of the parking lot, bear left by the map kiosk on the Arroyo Trail. Walk 0.1 mile to a junction. Go to the left on the Panorama Trail and climb the grassy hill. At the ridge is an overlook of the rolling pastureland with pockets of oaks. A bench sits next to a sprawling, majestic coast live oak. Top the slope to a junction with the Pomo Trail at 0.4 miles. Bear left, staying on the Panorama Trail, and descend on the gentle slope.
Head uphill to the oak grove and horse pasture at the west park boundary. Continue on the upper ridge east, and bear left on the Pomo Trail. Descend into a shaded oak woodland and follow the ridge. Loop right to a posted fork at 0.9 miles. Bear left on the Fillaree Trail.
Photo by Crissy Pascual.
Meander through the oaks to a T-junction with the paved Ridge Trail at 1.3 miles, located at an overlook of Petaluma, the Chileno Valley, and the coastal hills.
Take the right fork up the gentle grade, passing the Pomo Trail on the right and the South Loop Trail on the left. (The loop trail leads to a 500-foot vista point.) Sheltered by hills on three sides, begin descending.
Walk parallel to a small seasonal creek to Fish Pond at 1.9 miles.
Curve around the east shore of the oval pond to a junction. Leave the paved Ridge Trail, and veer right along the south end of the pond to the water tank. Go to the left on the Ridge Trail and traverse the hillside. Pass the Savannah Trail on the right, returning to the parking lot.
Looking for a local urban-feel dance party to avoid the nighttime commute to the city, the extreme San Francisco hills and the competitive parking? Super Saturday, an event at outdoor bar-meets-Italian restaurant venue Campo Fina in Healdsburg, serves up killer cocktails to DJ beats — with a side of bocce ball to break the ice.
Last Saturday, Campo Fina DJs kept the crowd happy by bringing a mix of dance-disco nostalgia and contemporary electronica-hip hop to the deck. First time Super Saturday attendee and Healdsburg resident Kelsey Walsh enjoyed the atmosphere. “It’s a really fun thing for the community,” she said.
Although the Super Saturday crowd consisted of mostly locals, Marline Trevino, in town visiting friends, said she enjoyed the friendly environment. “So far, just being here in the last 15 minutes, it seems really cool…I love the atmosphere,” she said.
Part of Super Saturday’s appeal is that it offers a little something-for-everyone — a relaxed California-backyard-vibe, but with an urban edge. And the something-for-everyone extends to the drink menu: for a little sophistication in your shaker, try Campo Fina’s Moscow Mule — a pink vodka cocktail with angostura bitters and Fever Tree ginger beer, served in a tall glass — and for the down-to-earth brew crowd, its the $4 Pabst Blue Ribbon.
Arriving at the battle site, I’d just established my position on a hay bale when an ill-kempt and bearded soldier dressed in grey flannel let forth with a blood curdling rebel yell. A cacophony of musket shots followed, a roar of cannons reverberated, ragged battle flags waved defiantly in the breeze while fallen men lay motionless on the ground.
Thankfully, the scene in front of me was not played out by unsettled ghosts from a distant Civil War past, but rather by reenactors immersed in history on a post-millennial Sonoma County meadow. The battle over, the mud-caked soldiers of the Duncan Mills Civil War Days straggled toward R&R and safety — an onsite hot dog stand — and a peek at their “wireless telegraph” smartphones. My first experience witnessing a living history extravaganza, and I was already hooked. And this before I had a chance to snap a selfie with Abraham Lincoln!
If you would also like to reconnect with history, we’ve listed a few ideas on how you can open the portal to the past in Sonoma County.
1. Explore a Former Native American Settlement and Russian Fortress at Fort Ross
Fort Ross State Historic Park on the Sonoma Coast has attracted visitors for over a century with its unique and multifaceted history. Once a Kashaya settlement, Ft. Ross became the southernmost Russian settlement and fur trading post in North America from 1812 to 1842.When the Russians moved on, the fort became a commercial agricultural and logging hub. Ft. Ross is now a National Historic Landmark and a treasured state park.
Fort Ross Festival: Every year in July, California State Parks and Fort Ross Conservancy put on the Fort Ross Festival which celebrates “the diverse international flavors and cultures of Fort Ross.” Festivities include costumed historical vignettes, hands-on-crafts, horse and buggy rides, music and dance performances, an international food bazaar, and a beer garden.
Admission is $20 per car, $100 per small capacity bus (24 or fewer people), and $225 for a large capacity bus (greater than 25 people). For more information, email info@fortross.org, or call (707) 847-3437.
The historic fort can also be visited year round. Park grounds open daily from sunrise to sunset. The Fort Compound and Visitor Center are open from 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., California State Parks staff also offer free 30-minute historic talks in the compound on most weekends at noon and 2 p.m.
Fort Ross State Historic Park, 19005 Coast Hwy, Jenner, (707) 847-3286, fortross.org.
2. Follow in the Footsteps of Jack London in Glen Ellen
Much traveled and much acclaimed writer Jack London set down roots in Sonoma County in 1905. Together with his second wife and travel companion Charmian (a writer and character in her own right), Jack settled on a small rundown farm on 130 acres in Glen Ellen.
Not one to rest on his laurels, London soon set about exploring his newly acquired land on horseback, and then began implementing the latest and most innovative agricultural techniques available at the time. Jack’s Glen Ellen “Beauty Ranch” became his primary focus and, apart from an adventurous Pacific Ocean sailing sojourn on his beloved Snark, London spent his last years here. The author died on his Sonoma County ranch in 1916.
Visitors to Jack London State Park can see the ruins of Jack and Charmian’s dream home “Wolf House” which burned down the day before they were to occupy it in 1913. You can visit London’s boulder gravesite, the cottage in which he lived and wrote, and the House of Happy Walls. The latter was built by Charmian London and Eliza Shepard (Jack London’s step-sister) after London’s death. It served as home for Charmian and now serves as a museum for Jack’s artifacts and work.
The House of Happy Walls at Jack London State Historic Park. (Photo Courtesy Jack London State Historic Park)
Jack London Centenary Events: This year, to commemorate the centenary of Jack London’s death, Jack London State Historic Park is hosting a series of special events.For more information, click here.
Free Docent Guided Tours: Jack London State Historic Park also offers free docent guided tours of Wolf House, Jack London’s Grave site and Beauty Ranch.
The docent-led tours take you to the ruins of the Wolf House and London’s gravesite from the House of Happy Walls Museum at 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. on weekends. Tours of Beauty Ranch begin at 2 p.m. and include a visit to the barns on the ranch, to Jack London’s cottage, and to Jack’s Pig Palace and silos.
Tours are free; there is a small fee to view the interior of London’s faithfully restored writing cottage. The cottage is open 12 – 4 p.m. seven days a week. Staffed by volunteers, it is occasionally closed so call in advance to make sure the cottage is open on a particular day. Admission fees are $4 for adults, $2 for seniors (age 62+), and $2 for students (age 13-18). Children age 12 and under are free.
Jack London State Historic Park, 2400 London Ranch Road, Glen Ellen, 707-938-5216, jacklondonpark.com.
3. Discover the History of Petaluma — by Foot or by Boat
Petaluma, one of the oldest cities in California, was settled during Gold Rush years in 1851. The city’s location as a transportation hub on the Petaluma River was instrumental in its rapid growth during the 19th and 20th centuries — scow schooners and steamers embarked here for the burgeoning city of San Francisco laden with agricultural produce and raw materials.
Petaluma soon established a reputation for its grain milling and chicken processing industries, and the city became known as the “Egg Capital of the World.” Today, Petaluma’s historical prosperity is still visible in the many distinguished and well-preserved Victorian homes and commercial buildings on the western side of the river.
Free Walking Tours of Petaluma are held on most Saturdays, May through October. Participants get a chance to learn about the pioneering days of Petaluma from docents in period dress, taking on the role of the city’s early settlers. Meet on the steps of the Petaluma Historical Library and Museum at 10:30 a.m. Call in advance to make sure a tour is being held.
The Petaluma Historical Library and Museum, 20 Fourth Street, Petaluma, (707) 778-4398, petalumamuseum.com.
The Petaluma Heritage Homes Biennial Tour, is held this year on September 18, from 1 – 8 p.m. This year’s tour will help benefit a retrofit of the Petaluma Historical Library and Museum. Tickets go on sale a few weeks before the tour. On December 4, the houses will be decorated for the holidays.
At River Heritage Days, historic boats from San Francisco Maritime Park travel up to Petaluma where they are available for tours and rides. Festivities include a barn dance, boat building workshops, nature awareness activities and plenty of family friendly fun.
4. Watch Mid-1800s Mexican-California Come to Life at the Petaluma Adobe State Park
In 1834, military commander Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo was ordered to leave his post at the Presidio of San Francisco to relocate north of the Bay. Vallejo was instructed to accomplish three things: to secularize the San Francisco Solano Mission in Sonoma, to colonize the area by starting a pueblo (Sonoma), and to be near the Russian outpost at Fort Ross.
Vallejo was granted the Rancho Petaluma and began construction of a ranch house and factory. In its operational days between 1836 and 1857, the Rancho Petaluma employed up to 2,000 Native Americans and became one of the largest ranches north of the San Francisco Bay and a social-economic center of Northern California.
Living History Day at Petaluma Adobe State Park:Every year in May, Petaluma Adobe State Historic Park celebrates Living History Day. Visitors can see the mid 1800s Mexican-California come to life outside of the two story Adobe as historical reenactments portray the vaqueros, traders, cooks and craftsmen who inhabited the rancho.
Docent led tours of the Adobe are also available on most weekends, inquire for details.
Petaluma Adobe State Historic Park, 3325 Adobe Rd, Petaluma, 707-762-4871, petalumaadobe.com.
5. Learn More About Sonoma’s Rich History by Visiting Sonoma State Historic Park
The town (pueblo) of Sonoma was founded in an area once populated by tribes of Coastal Miwok. Mission San Francisco Solano, established in 1823, was the last and the northern most mission founded in California.
In 1833, Lt. Mariano Vallejo was sent northward from the Presidio San Francisco in command of a company of soldiers to secularize the mission, lay out a pueblo and guard against the encroachment of foreigners: the Russian presence at Ft. Ross and Sutter’s demands of sovereignty and an independent principality in the Sacramento area. Sonoma Barracks was built to house his troops. Vallejo quickly went about laying out the town and plaza of Sonoma.
Californio soldiers under Comandante-General Mariano Vallejo drill at Sonoma barracks. (Photo by militarymuseum.org)
Sonoma State Historic Park is a scattering of historical attractions around the Sonoma Plaza. Sites include the Mission San Francisco Solano, the Blue Wing Inn, Sonoma Barracks, the Toscano Hotel, the Servants Quarters (the remains of La Casa Grande) and General Mariano Vallejo’s home — Lachryma Montis (less than a mile west of the plaza).
Sonoma State Historic Park, various location around the Sonoma Plaza, Mission: (707) 938-9560, Vallejo’s Home: (707) 938-9559, Barracks: (707) 939-9420.
Mission San Francisco Solano in Sonoma. (Photo by Crista Jeremiason)
6. See the Bear Flag Revolt Re-Enacted at the Valley of the Moon Vintage Festival in Sonoma
In the Bear Flag revolt of June 1846, a ragtag group of Americans seeking to emulate the Texas revolt against Mexico took the town of Sonoma from its founder General Mariano Vallejo. The rebels, like the Texans before them, proclaimed an independent republic under the Bear Flag rather than annexing the territory for the United States. Less than a month later, Navy Lt. Joseph Revere, grandson of Paul Revere, took the Bear Flag down and raised the Stars and Stripes for the United States.
Valley of the Moon Vintage Festival: Sonoma’s celebration of its history, community, and culture kicks off on Sept. 23rd at 7 p.m. with a reenactment of the Bear Flag Revolt. See it all play out live in front of the historic Sonoma Barracks (Sonoma State Historic Park, 20 E Spain St, Sonoma). Also at the festival: food, wine, music, poster contest, 12 and 5 K runs, and Get Your Glow on Parade. Inaugurated in 1897, this is Valley of the Moon Festival’s 119th year.
7. Tour the Home, Gardens and Experimental Farm of a Famed Horticulturist and Botanist
Luther Burbank was 21 years old when he lost his father in 1870. Having grown up on a farm, the young Burbank used his inheritance to buy a 17-acre plot of land near Lunenburg in his native Massachusetts. There, he developed the Burbank potato. He later sold the rights to his potato for $150 and used the proceeds to travel to Santa Rosa, where three of his brothers had already settled.
In Santa Rosa, Burbank purchased a 4-acre plot of land where he established a greenhouse, a nursery, and experimental fields that he used to conduct crossbreeding experiments on plants — inspired by Charles Darwin’s “The Variation of Animals and Plants under Domestication.” Later, Burbank acquired the Gold Ridge Farm in Sebastopol to allow for more acreage in which to conduct his crossbreeding experiments.
During his 55-year career, Burbank developed more than 800 strains and varieties of plants — notable examples include the Shasta daisy, the fire poppy, the “Santa Rosa” plum, the “Flaming Gold” nectarine, the freestone peach and the white blackberry.
Luther Burbank became an internationally known celebrity during his lifetime. Many famous people made the journey to small-town Santa Rosa to visit the plant breeder and view his experiments. Henry Ford and Thomas Edison met Luther Burbank at the Santa Rosa Gardens for one afternoon in 1915. Both signed Mr. Burbank’s guest book.On October 8, 1905, Luther Burbank received a letter from Jack London, whom Burbank later described as his “almost neighbor”, living just across the hills. “Now, what I want to know,” wrote Mr. London, “is could you give me a tip to any kinds of exceptionally good fruits and grapes for me to plant?” Jack and his wife Charmian visited Burbank on several occasions. London remarked Burbank’s guest book, “I’d rather be doing what you are doing than be Roosevelt, Rockefeller, King Edward and the Kaiser rolled into one.”Luther Burbank Home & Gardens in Santa Rosa, CA.
Visit Luther Burbank Home & Gardens: Public tour season of Luther Burbank Home & Gardens in Santa Rosa runs from April through October. Stop by Tuesday through Sunday, between 10 a.m. and 3:30 p.m., for docent led tours. Adults $10; children 12-18, seniors and college students with ID $8.50; children under 12 free with an adult. Group Tours and Children’s Tours are available year-round with advance reservations.
Luther Burbank Home & Gardens, 204 Santa Rosa Avenue, Santa Rosa, CA 95404, 707-524-5445, lutherburbank.org.
Visit Luther Burbank’s Gold Ridge Experiment Farm: Tours of Luther Burbank’s Gold Ridge Experiment Farm in Sebastopol are available during opening hours (Thurs — Sun, 1-4 p.m.) — a free trail map can be picked up by the kiosk and barn. Docent tours are available by appointment.
8. Visit the Ghosts of the Past on a Cemetery Walk in Sebastopol or Santa Rosa
The Santa Rosa Rural Cemetery is a popular spot for history buffs. The 17-acre historic landmark, primarily used from the 1850s to 1930s, is the burial site for many of the city’s earliest residents. Names like Carillo, Hoen, and Hahman — the families who built Santa Rosa — can be found on gravestones here.
Women’s History Tour: On August 27, visitors to the cemetery can see portrayals of the women who helped shape Santa Rosa and Sonoma County.
Tours begin at 10 a.m., 10:15 a.m. and 10:30 a.m., approximately 1 hour long, $15 rain or shine. To register, click here or call (707) 543-3737. Santa Rosa Rural Cemetery, Santa Rosa, CA 95404.
Tours last approximately one hour and leave from the McDonald Gate every 20 minutes from 7:30pm to 9:50pm, pre-registration required. $35 rain or shine. To register, click here or call (707) 543-3737. Santa Rosa Rural Cemetery, Santa Rosa, CA 95404.
Tickets cost $35 per person; proceeds go to Gold Ridge Experimental Farm and West County Museum. For tickets, click here. This event will sell out fast, so get your tickets early.
9. Watch an Ancient Steam-Powered Mill in Action in Occidental
The town of Occidental was founded in 1876.The timber industry grew rapidly here after the North Pacific Railroad connected the town to the Sausalito ferry and its service to San Francisco in 1877.Soon, as many as six timber mills in the Occidental area worked round the clock to shape redwoods into the lumber that built San Francisco and other early Californian cities.
Wade Sturgeon’s steam-powered mill was built in the 1880s on what is now the Korbel Winery property near the Russian River. After changing hands and locations a few times, the mill was relocated once again in 1924 to its current location in Occidental.
Historic photo of the workers at Sturgeon’s Mill. (Courtesy of Sturgeon’s Mill Restoration Project)
Sturgeon Mill, one of the world’s last steam-powered sawmills using original equipment, is now a unique piece of history. The mill, a non-profit working museum, fires up its 19th-century Atlas Steam Engine a few times per year.
The next live demonstrations of the mill are scheduled on September 17-18 and October 15 – 16, from 10 a.m. – 3 p.m.. There is no charge, but donations towards the restoration projects are gladly accepted.
Sturgeon’s Mill Restoration Project, 2150 Green Hill Road, Sebastopol, (707) 829-2479, sturgeonsmill.com.
Harvey Henningsen, left, and Ron Sturgeon run a log through the blades of the headrig at Sturgeon’s Mill.
10. See a Civil War Battle Play Out Before your Eyes Near Duncans Mills
Each year in July, Confederate and Union soldiers invade the sleepy Northern California hamlet of Duncans Mills.The Civil War Days extravaganza in Duncans Mills, touted as Northern California’s largest Civil War reenactment — one of the largest reenactments west of the Mississippi — is definitely worth a visit. The battlefields are located on a campground in the Russian River resort area, meadows picturesquely surrounded by redwood covered hills.
Visitors to the Civil War Days can watch the drama unfold on the battlefield from the safe distance of bleachers and strategically placed straw bales. In between battles (there are usually two per day), you can stroll around the site; check out period dress in one of the many tents, chat with the re-enactors as they unwind by the campfire — or snap a selfie with Abe Lincoln. There is a hot dog shack if you get hungry — or you can bring your own picnic in a knapsack or cooler.Admission is $12 for adults, $6 for juniors age 7-12, and free for children 6 and under. Parking costs $5 per vehicle. Cash only.
Civil War Days at Duncans Mills, (707) 922-5901, civilwardays.net.
The tiny town of Duncans Mills is well-worth a visit as you travel from the river area to the coast. Founded in 1877, Duncans Mills was originally the location of Alexander Duncan’s saw mill. Lumber from the mill travelled via the North Pacific Coast Railroad to Sausalito and then onward to San Francisco via ferry and shallow draft scow schooners.
When the railroad ceased operations in the 1930’s, Duncans Mills suffered. The town experienced a rebirth during the country’s Bicentennial celebrations in 1976. Today the town is a quaint vibrant station on your way to the coast from the river towns: with a charming general store, fine restaurants including live music venue The Blue Heron, a candy store, a comfortable coffee shop and other thriving businesses.
11. Choo Choo on Up to Mendocino
The California Western Railroad, popularly known as the Skunk Train, runs between the historical and picturesque coastal town of Fort Bragg (founded prior to the Civil War as a military garrison) and the interchange with the Northwestern Pacific Railroad at Willits.
This heritage railroad, built during the timber rush of the late 19th century, initially carried redwood logs from the dense forests at Glenela (Glen Blair) to a newly built lumber mill located at Fort Bragg. In 1925, gas-powered, self-propelled, passenger railcars started running these tracks. The cars were nicknamed “Skunks” because people said, “you can smell ‘em before you can see ‘em.”
The “Super Skunk” — a Baldwin-built steam locomotive No.45 — now powers excursion trains through majestic redwood forests, scenic mountain meadows and over 30 trestles bridging the mountain waters of Northern California.
For reservations call (707) 964-6371, or click here to book online. Skunk Train, 100 W Laurel St, Fort Bragg.
Olivers founder Steve Maass, right, and chief executive officer Tom Scott in their Stony Point Road store.
PC:Oliver’s founder and president Steve Maass, right, and VP and general manager Tom Scott in their Stony Point Rd. store.
The most prominent face of Sonoma County’s Oliver’s Markets, Tom Scott, has announced his retirement from the business. Owner Steve Maass will return to daily operations in September. Scott has been with the company since 1989, joining just after the first store opened in Cotati.
Scott’s big presence and big personality extended beyond the daily operations to serving on several non-profit boards in the community including Community First Credit Union, Santa Rosa Community Health Center and the Sonoma County Harvest Fair. He was also instrumental in guiding the store’s house brands of wine, along with the newly-opened Tavern Off the Greenin Windsor.
“I have worked in the grocery business in one way or another for over 40 years,” Tom explains. “My wife and I want to travel and have flexibility at this point in our lives. I am ready for the next chapter.”
“We have worked side by side for 26 years,” Oliver’s Market Owner and President Steve Maass said. “I have relied on Tom’s guidance and leadership through all of our challenges and triumphs. He has also been an excellent ambassador for Oliver’s in the community. He will be greatly missed.”
