Members of the Wildlife Rescue’s Barn Owl Management Project introduced a foster owl, second from right, into an established family on a vineyard property in Sonoma County. The owls reduce rodent populations, bringing up to 25 gophers back to the nesting box each night. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Barn owls are the sole vineyard workers to take no note of harvest season. From their perspective up in tree hollows, barn lofts and custom nest boxes mounted on poles, the rows of vines laden with ripe fruit are of little interest.
They’re focused instead on the ground below, where their work is done and their food — rodents — is found. A family of barn owls may eat more than 1,000 in a single season. That translates into a lot of critters that won’t be feasting on the tasty (so we hear) roots of grapevines.
Kelsey Reidinger of Sonoma County Wildlife Rescue says that roughly half of the 40 or so new nest boxes installed annually through its 13-year-old Barn Owl Maintenance Program (BOMP), are placed in vineyards.
“Because gophers can cause such issues for winegrape growers, barn owls are attractive to vintners,” she says.
Angel Van Lawick places a baby orphaned barn owl in one of 16 owl boxes at Lynmar Estate near Sebastopol. The orphaned owl is placed with other babies and a wild mother that will adopt the new baby. Van Lawick is a granddaughter to primatologist Dr. Jane Goodall. Photo taken May 1, 2014. (Crista Jeremiason / The Press Democrat)Members of the Wildlife Rescue’s Barn Owl Management Project introduced a foster owl, second from right, into an established family on a vineyard property in Sonoma County. The owls reduce rodent populations, bringing up to 25 gophers back to the nesting box each night. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
The other half of the group’s owl boxes go into other types of agricultural fields. Either way, the real winner is the region’s overall ecological balance. Barn owls are natural predators of gophers, and our open landscapes are their natural habitat. That’s why they’re called barn owls, after all: They tend to find shelter there, surrounded by farmland.
Barns and fields mimic the tree cavities in grasslands and savannas to which they’re adapted. (Great horned owls, also common countywide, prefer more wooded areas.) Resident owls also forestall the need for rodent poisons, which can be counterproductive by also killing predators.
Though barn owls don’t give a hoot about harvest, late summer and early fall are important for other reasons. This is when juvenile owls, at their own ripe old age of two months, fledge from the nest. And it’s when vacant owl boxes must be thoroughly cleaned, another service that Sonoma County Wildlife Rescue provides.
“After they’re born, these owls are doing all of their business inside of the box, and they do no housekeeping,” Reidinger explains. “Over the 60 days that they’re in the box, it leads to inches of material.”
After all, a clean owl box is a healthy owl box, and a healthy barn owl is worth more than its weight in fine wine.
To learn more about the Barn Owl Maintenance Program or determine if your property is right for a barn owl box, visit scwildliferescue.org/bomp or call 707-992-0274.
Table grapes play beautifully in this easy white gazpacho, which has been part of early Spanish food culture since long before the tomato arrived in Europe. (Shutterstock)
Pluck a fat grape from its cluster, pop it into your mouth, and bite down gently — the sweet, smooth juiciness is the taste of early fall. Thin-skinned table grapes, in contrast to their thicker-skinned winemaking cousins, offer bright acidity, few if any seeds, and enchanting names like Perlette, Princess and Flame. Colors range from rosy pink to icy green to deep blue-black.
Table grapes are wonderful on pizza and other flatbreads. And have you ever tried grilling them? Pull them off the bunch, pop them in a grill basket and roast over the grill for a few minutes, then serve with feta cheese, a drizzle of olive oil and crusty bread.
Table grapes play beautifully in this easy white gazpacho, which has been part of early Spanish food culture since long before the tomato arrived in Europe. This version, made with bread, garlic, almonds and peppery olive oil, is finished with sliced table grapes and Marcona almonds — a welcome first course at the fall table.
Table grapes play beautifully in this easy white gazpacho, which has been part of early Spanish food culture since long before the tomato arrived in Europe. (Shutterstock)
Ajo Blanco
Serves 4-6
5 to 6 ounces sturdy sourdough bread, a few days old, in chunks
6 plump garlic cloves, peeled
Hot water
1 cup raw almonds, blanched and peeled
4 tbsp. sherry vinegar
1 tsp. hot Spanish paprika
Kosher salt
Freshly cracked black pepper
6 tbsps. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
3/4 cup sliced seedless table grapes
1/3 cup toasted and salted Marcona almonds
Place the bread in a deep bowl and add room-temperature water to cover. Set aside for at least 30 minutes and up to 3 hours.
Put the garlic into a small bowl, cover with hot water and set aside for the same amount of time.
When the bread is very soft, squeeze out as much water as possible and put the wet bread into the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Drain the garlic and add to the bread, along with the blanched almonds and sherry vinegar. Add 1 cup room-temperature water to the mixture and pulse several times, until the mixture is quite smooth. (Soaking the bread, then squeezing out the water, then adding water back in gives the soup a velvety texture.)
Add the paprika, season generously with salt, and add several turns of pepper. Pulse several more times, then, as the machine is processing, add the olive oil in a slow, steady stream.
Taste the soup and adjust to your taste.
Add a bit more vinegar if not tart enough, or a bit more olive oil if too tart. Try a bit more salt or pepper to help the flavors bloom.
Set a strainer over a deep bowl, pour the soup into it and use a sturdy wooden spoon or pestle to press as much of the liquid through as possible. Discard what is left behind. Cover the soup, and chill thoroughly in the refrigerator.
To serve, pour the chilled soup into small bowls and add a swirl of olive oil to each portion. Top with sliced grapes and toasted almonds and enjoy right away.
Candice Koseba, Sonoma County Bee Company owner, checks on the hives. (Bryan Meltz/Sonoma Magazine)
Dry Creek Valley’s sprawling Preston Farm & Winery is an oasis of fruit and flowers beside a meandering, salmon-spawning stream. Visitors often hear a symphony of birds, singing and chattering and fluttering their joy. Yet on this particular warm day, the birds were taking it easy — probably staying cool in the shade of the olive and apple trees. The only sound, to a careful ear, was the meditative hum of thousands of bees, hanging out by the front entrance to their hives.
Bees are smart, says Sonoma County Bee Company owner Candice Koseba. They increase their population rapidly in late spring and forage for nectar and pollen at warp speed while there are lots of things in bloom. That’s in anticipation of chilly winter, when the bees hunker in their hives, dining on the food they’ve stored in their honeycomb from earlier in the year. A spell of scorching heat is good reason for the bees to chillax for a bit.
Such seasonal sensibilities mean the best time for beekeepers to gently harvest honey is in the fall, when the sweet stuff is especially abundant and beekeepers can be sure to leave enough in reserve to help ensure the hive makes it through winter.
Candice Koseba, Sonoma County Bee Company owner, checks on the hives. (Bryan Meltz/Sonoma Magazine)
Autumn is the only time you’ll find Koseba deep in what she calls her “honey crush.” She will have spent the previous weeks visiting her hives and collecting heavy, fragrant frames of honeycomb. Then she ever-so-carefully brings them into what she calls her “sugar shack,” a tidy cottage workshop at the entrance to Preston Farm.
A honey crush is an uncommon thing, left to boutique (or some might say, obsessive) specialists. Most commercial honey is extracted by placing saturated honeycombs into a centrifuge machine, which spins and removes the honey en masse. In contrast, Koseba works like a masseuse, placing her frame bins atop a strainer tub, then carving out the honeycomb by hand with a 3-inch paring knife. She reaches into the tub with both hands, gently crushing the combs, in a sticky ritual that releases more nutrients.
“When you do it in a spinner, it pulls the honey out — but when you crush by hand, the honey sinks down through all that beautiful comb,” she says. “The wax is covered in pollen, and the comb is laced with propolis, so crushed honey keeps a lot more of all the good things.”
At harvest, Candice Koseba slices the comb from the frames to crush it. The smell of honey can attract bees. (Bryan Meltz/Sonoma Magazine)Candice Koseba crushes comb to harvest the honey locked within. (Bryan Meltz/Sonoma Magazine)
Bee pollen, which is gathered from plants and stored in the honeycomb along with the honey, is rich in vitamins, minerals, enzymes, amino acids and antioxidants.
Koseba leaves her messy work to let it rest a while, with the amber-hued syrup leisurely dripping into a tap bucket, then does a final pass through a fine strainer.
“When we pour it out, there’s still a lot of wax in it, and there might be bee parts in there, or pieces of wood frame that came from when we were scraping. But this strainer catches all of that,” she says. “Then we bottle it — no heat.”
Regular honey is pasteurized for smoother texture and longer shelf life, but that heat can often destroy some of honey’s healthiest compounds, like the bee pollen and antioxidants, she notes. “Regular” honey can also contain added sweeteners like sugar or corn syrup (though in that case, it must be labeled a blend).
Candice Koseba strains freshly crushed honey before bottling. The honey is unprocessed and unfiltered. (Bryan Meltz/Sonoma Magazine)
Aficionados can taste the difference. Sonoma County Bee Company honey beckons with a more dynamic but delicate flavor, enchanting with complex notes instead of just sweet through and through.
For all her expertise, every day is a learning experience, Koseba admits. Though she’d trained as an herbalist and chef, she’d never thought much about bees before opening her company in 2019. Back then, she was working with SingleThread owners Kyle and Katina Connaughton as a culinary liaison. She and her husband, chef Aaron Koseba, had first met the Connaughtons after hosting them at a coastal foraging dinner in Carmel-by-the-Sea.
After learning the SingleThread folks wanted to keep bees on the 5-acre Healdsburg farm that feeds their restaurant, Candice Koseba joined the Sonoma County Beekeepers Association and took courses at Santa Rosa Junior College with local bee expert Serge Labesque. Apiarist Rob Keller of Napa Valley Bee Company taught Koseba the theories of sustainable beekeeping, which emphasize strong, locally adapted genetics.
Koseba quickly realized that the happiest bees are Sonoma County’s own wild bees, who are never fed artificial food or antibiotics, evolving to be strong enough to make it on their own. Or, as Keller famously calls them, “bionic bees.”
“They know where the nectar sources are, where the water is, what the weather’s like — they’re adapted, and they’re just better,” Koseba explains.
A sustainable log hive with a removable window to check on the bees’ health without opening the hive entirely. (Bryan Meltz/Sonoma Magazine)
Soon, she began keeping bees at her house near Dry Creek in a heritage-style log hive, which is as it sounds: a hive from a log with a large hole bored through the center for the bees to make their home.
At first, Koseba harvested honey in her kitchen, but she soon needed more space. She thought of the relationship she’d built with Preston Farm owner Lou Preston while working with SingleThread. Preston had an empty workshop — previously used as a “vinegar shack” — and happily rented it to her. She installed 50 hives nearby and started catching local swarms that area people wanted relocated each spring.
She also learned to steel herself for some hives to dwindle down in winter, as nature takes its course.
“It’s just natural that not every colony is going to survive,” she says. “There are so many environmental factors affecting the bees that are out of our control, but I used to really beat myself up and cry when a colony would die out. It’s like getting a pet, except a lot of them.”
Sonoma County Bee Company is still in its nascent stage, with honey sales limited to 3- or 9-ounce, hand-labeled jars.
Labeling jars of honey. (Bryan Meltz/Sonoma Magazine)
There’s no wholesale, because as she explains, “We only harvest honey when there is a surplus, in order to preserve our magnificent honeybee population. When we have honey we have it. When we don’t, we don’t.”
That’s why she waits until October to start her honey crush.
“In August, I’ll start looking at hives, saying, OK, this one looks like we could take soon, this one we have to wait, or this one, no — we can’t take any at all.”
Harvest time is special to Koseba because it’s when she reflects on the partnerships she’s developed with the bees. It’s bonding season with her colonies, in a sense, as she makes the rounds of their hives.
Koseba salutes their labor even after their honey is gently removed, melting the spent wax in a solar heater next to her shack. She handcrafts the wax into gorgeous, honeycomb-patterned candles and honey storage boxes.
“People love that they can serve their honey from the wax cells it came from,” Koseba says.
Candice Koseba checks on hives outside Healdsburg. (Bryan Meltz/Sonoma Magazine)
Now, she is expanding her hives into other areas, to see how they produce. One group that’s doing exceptionally well is in downtown Healdsburg, surrounded by luxurious residential gardens lush with flowers and fruit trees.
“It’s so fun to see my rural bees are the tough nuts, and then my downtown girls are more posh,” she says. “So we can split the bees up for more hives, and keep more of them generating in the areas they like.”
If some people think her raw honey is pricey, Koseba cheerfully shrugs.
“I think honey is an ingredient that needs to be more expensive — like truffles — so people value it more,” she says. “Especially real, raw honey that comes from hives that are treated in the right way. We’re not here to strip their honey, we’re here to celebrate and honor the bees.”
To learn more:Candice Koseba’s annual honey crush happens in October. Her Sonoma County Bee Company offers small-batch raw and creamed wildflower honey, herbal skincare and beeswax home accessories, plus apiary consulting and hive management services.
The Keller Estate tasting room opens out onto a pretty stone courtyard, a scenic spot for seated tastings with sweeping views of the Petaluma River Valley. (Julep-Productions/Keller Estate)
Dozens of Sonoma County wines sport the Petaluma Gap designation on their labels, yet the appellation isn’t often the first one people think of when they plan a wine tasting excursion.
Sure, the wind-swept appellation grows excellent Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah, and the terrain is beautiful, but there just aren’t a whole lot of wineries in the area. In fact, you can count the number of tasting rooms on a couple of hands and maybe part of one foot.
Keller Estate, set on a lovely property just a few miles from downtown Petaluma, shines a well-deserved spotlight on this under-the-radar region.
Wine tasting at Keller Estate in Petaluma. (Julep-Productions/Keller Estate)
The story
Keller Estate is no newbie to Petaluma’s winemaking scene. Founder Arturo Keller was born and raised in Mexico City and created a successful business there producing seats for the auto industry before veering off onto a new path. In the early ‘80s, Keller and his wife, Deborah, purchased a 600-acre property in Petaluma and planted Chardonnay at the site in 1989.
The Kellers sold the grapes to Rombauer Vineyards for many years before making the leap from growers to vintners. In 2000, they hired Mexican architect Ricardo Legorreta to design their namesake winery. Their daughter Ana Keller now runs the family business.
Keller Estate in Petaluma. Near the entrance, visitors are greeted by a life-size sculpture of the founder, Arturo Keller, behind the wheel of an open-top 1929 Mercedes-Benz. (Courtesy of Keller Estate)The Keller Estate tasting room opens out onto a pretty stone courtyard, a scenic spot for seated tastings with sweeping views of the Petaluma River Valley. (Julep-Productions/Keller Estate)
The vibe
The late Arturo Keller’s lifelong love of vintage automobiles is a big part of the winery vibe. Near the entrance, visitors are greeted by a life-size sculpture of the founder behind the wheel of an open-top 1929 Mercedes-Benz. Parked inside the tasting room — a welcoming space with wood beam ceilings, terra-cotta tiles and colorful art — are cars from Keller’s impressive collection, such as the snazzy 1910 Ford Model T currently on display.
The tasting room opens out onto a pretty stone courtyard, a scenic spot for seated tastings with sweeping views of the Petaluma River Valley. Visitors can also book a tasting in the winery’s Collection Room, home to a rotating lineup of vintage cars dating from 1900 to 1960.
Keller Estate’s star varieties are estate-grown Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah. (Julep-Productions/Keller Estate)
On the palate
Keller’s star varieties are estate-grown Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah. If, like me, you’re a fan of Chardonnays that are on the leaner side — but not too far on the spectrum — you’ll love the 2021 Oro de Plata ($42). It’s fermented and aged in stainless steel instead of oak, so the bright fruit takes center stage. It has some attractive tropical fruit notes and a brisk acidity that brings it all into balance.
The 2021 La Cruz Chardonnay ($52), fermented and aged in oak barrels, has a similar pineapple thing going on, but the wine has a creamier texture and a richer mouthfeel. Among the Pinots, the 2021 El Coro ($70) is deep and complex, with a ripe black cherry vibe, while the 2019 Rôtie Syrah ($65) shows the softer side of this often-brawny grape. Tastings range from $40 to $85 per person.
Wine tasting at Keller Estate in Petaluma. (Julep-Productions/Keller Estate)
Beyond the bottles
Keller is tapping into its Mexican roots Nov. 2 with a Dia de los Muertos Fiesta on the winery plaza ($125 per person). It features a communal altar for displaying photos of departed loved ones, plus traditional dancing, music, wine and street food.
On Thursdays from Nov. 7 through March 27, Keller will host “Loteria Night,” billed as a “bingo night with a Latin flair.” Just $20 gets you into the game with a glass of wine.
Keller Estate, 5875 Lakeville Highway, Petaluma. Open Wednesday to Sunday by reservation. 707-765-2117, kellerestate.com
Tina Caputo is a wine, food and travel writer whose work has appeared in numerous publications, including SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, HuffPost and Sonoma magazine. Follow Tina on Twitter @winebroad, view her website at tinacaputo.com and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.
“More than mere ghost stories, these enduring legends and folklore contribute to the unique qualities of the inns, resorts and hotels of Historic Hotels of America,” said the program’s executive vice president Lawrence Horwitz in an Oct. 7 press release.
The hotels on the annual list were founded between 1716 to 1941. Most reside on the East Coast, where many infamous events in our nation’s history took place, such as the Salem witch trials. (A Salem, Massachusetts hotel appears on the list — often ranked as one of the most haunted hotels in the U.S.)
The Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa, a member of Historic Hotels of America since 2014, dates back to 1927. Historic Hotels of America listed the hotel in its list of the top 25 most haunted hotels in the country. (The Press Democrat archives)The Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn and Spa in Sonoma. Historic Hotels of America listed the inn among the most haunted in the country due to reports of paranormal activity. (Courtesy Lisa Romerein)
The five-star Sonoma property, originally known as the Boyes Hot Springs Hotel, circa 1890s, burned down in a 1923 fire. According to a Historic Hotels timeline of the inn, Fred Partridge and Rudolph Lichtenberg had the resort rebuilt in 1926. They hired architect Joseph L. Stewart for the redesign of the Spanish Revival-style hotel. It reopened a year later and the owners renamed it Sonoma Mission Inn in 1928.
So what makes the hotel haunted? According to Historic Hotels of America, the inn’s tenured employees have testified that, “when the evenings are still and the fog rolls in from the San Francisco Bay, a beautiful woman has been seen strolling the hallways of the inn in period clothing.”
The ghost, known as Victoria, was an early European settler in Sonoma Valley who is said to have celebrated her wedding and anniversaries at the resort. Guests have also supposedly seen the ghost of an older man at the inn, as well as other paranormal phenomenon. Reports include seeing shadowy figures, doors slamming, lights flickering and unexplained noises.
Mission Spa Suite at Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn and Spa in Sonoma. (Courtesy Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa)
“The hauntingly famous Round Room is perhaps one of the most haunted hotel rooms in California,” said the Historic Hotels of America press release.
A 2020 press release from Fairmont Sonoma stated that a guest was allegedly beheaded in a bathtub in this room by a jealous lover in the 1920s. Since then, the hotel’s guests have reported sighting supernatural activity in the room.
Lobster mac and cheese at Willi’s Wine Bar in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Carb-haters read no further, because this is a gluten and Keto-unfriendly list of pasta, pasta, pasta.
Like most other delicious things, pasta has gotten a bad rap after spending decades as the base of the USDA’s food pyramid, along with bread, cereal and rice. Remember those halcyon days when we didn’t know better? Moderation means that if you’re going to eat pasta, you might as well make it worth every calorie.
Read on below for some top Sonoma County pastas for those cheat days. Click through the above gallery for a sneak peek.
Lasagna Bolognese – Portico, Sebastopol: Crepe-thin layers of pasta with ragu, béchamel sauce and Parmesan cheese. Also available in a vegetarian version. 100 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-888-9136, porticosocialfood.com
Pasta Bolognese at Portico restaurant in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Ragu Bolognese with Tagliatelle – Portico, Sebastopol: The praises have been sung. Thick strands of housemade pasta hold onto the chunks of carrots and green pepper, with ground beef and pork taking center stage. Portions are reasonable — neither too much nor too little. 100 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-888-9136, porticosocialfood.com
Pappardelle Pasta with Saffron Cream – Portico, Sebastopol: Extra-wide strips of fresh pasta bathed in golden saffron cream are precisely as good as they sound. 100 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-888-9136, porticosocialfood.com
Cacio e Pepe – Golden Bear Station, Kenwood: Cacio e pepe is a deceptively tricky dish to master and a bellwether dish for me. Chef Joshua Smookler gets it so right, elevating the pasta with seven different kinds of pepper, giving it a spicy punch that lingers on the tongue. 8445 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, goldenbearstation.com
Short rib agnolotti from Monti’s in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy Monti’s)
Short Rib Agnolotti – Monti’s, Santa Rosa: The recently-updated menu now includes freshly-made pasta, including Lemon Tagliatelle with Dungeness crab and buckwheat pasta with mushroom ragout. We’re especially fond of the hearty short rib agnolotti with fresh horseradish. 714 Village Court, Santa Rosa, 707-568-4404, montismv.com
Seasonal Pasta – Diavola, Geyserville: We could rave about spaghettini with pork cheek ragu or linguini with manila clams and uni, but what’s so special about this far-flung trattoria is the always-changing seasonal menu. Just order whatever sounds good — you won’t be disappointed. Chef/owner Dino Bugica is the real deal, and his housemade pasta is consistently one of my favorites in Sonoma County. 21021 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-814-0111, diavolapizzeria.com
Seasonal Pasta – Molti Amici, Healdsburg: Handmade pasta is their calling card, and seasonal changes bring an ever-evolving lineup of ingredients and pasta styles. Ravioli with black truffle and brown butter is a fall favorite, while summer brings bright tomato sauces and pesto. 330 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-756-3169, moltiamici.com
The enormous Lasagna with a Stagionale salad of arugula, roasted butternut squash puree, sliced almonds., topped with pecorino cheese, in an orange mustard and Extra Virgin Olive Oil dressing from L’oro di Napoli in downtown Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Lasagna – L’oro Di Napoli, Santa Rosa: Pizza is their bread and butter, but a mile-high slice of lasagna with Bechemel is a must-try. 629 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-541-6394, lorodinapolisantarosa.com
Steamed Clams with Linguine – Campanella, Sebastopol: You’re Frank Sinatra sitting with “The Godfather” and “Jersey Shore” casts. It doesn’t get more Italian American than this. 7365 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol, 707-910-3030, campanellasoco.com
Wild Boar Gnocchi – Risibisi, Petaluma: Housemade gnocchi with braised wild boar is a specialty of this Petaluma restaurant. Risotto is also a favorite. 154 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-766-7600, risibisirestaurant.com
Ravioli di anatra at Cucina Paradiso in Petaluma. (Jeff Kan Lee/The Press Democrat)
Ravioli di Anatra – Cucina Paradiso, Petaluma: Every pasta is a winner at this longtime Petaluma Italian restaurant, but this housemade ravioli is filled with roast duck in sundried tomato, pine nut and basil sauce. 114 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-782-1130, cucinaparadisopetaluma.com
Ricotta Gnudi – Grata, Windsor: Lighter and fluffier than gnocchi, these little clouds of ricotta come with brown butter, butternut squash and greens. Love. 186 Windsor River Road, Windsor, 707-620-0508, gratawindsor.com
Nonni’s Ravioli – Negri’s Italian Dinners, Occidental: House-made ravioli with beef, pork, Swiss chard and herbs has been a family recipe for generations. Simple, but excellent. 3700 Bohemian Highway, Occidental, 707-874-0301, negrisrestaurant.com
Ca’Bianca’s Rigatoni served with Italian sausage, peas, mushrooms, tomato and cream sauce. (Crista Jeremiason/The Press Democrat)
Rigatoni, Ca’Bianca, Santa Rosa: Simple, but delicious, Ca’Bianca’s rigatoni is served with Italian sausage, peas, mushrooms, tomato and cream sauce. 835 Second St., Santa Rosa, 707-542-5800, cabianca.com
Lasagna – Catelli’s, Geyserville: No question, hands down the thinnest layers of pasta with Richard’s meat sauce and plenty of cheese. A crispy top makes this such a decadent treat. 21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-857-3471, mycatellis.com
Seasonal Pasta – Glen Ellen Star, Glen Ellen: What’s on the menu changes frequently depending on season, but it’s always excellent. Spring brings lamb confit with artichokes and favas or rigatoni “cashew e pepe” with trumpet mushrooms and snap peas. 13648 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-343-1384, glenellenstar.com
Spaghetti alla Bolognese is served at Baci Cafe & Wine Bar in Healdsburg on Wednesday, Nov. 27, 2013. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)
Spaghetti alla Bolognese – Baci Cafe & Wine Bar, Healdsburg: A neighborhood favorite that locals swear by. Fresh pasta is made daily. 336 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-8111, bacicafeandwinebar.com
Spaghetti and Meatballs – Union Hotel, Occidental: Regulars’ favorite. What else is there to say? Mange! 3731 Main St., Occidental, 707-874-3555, unionhoteloccidental.com
Craft Mac and Cheese – Bird and Bottle, Santa Rosa: Yes, just yes. 1055 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-568-4000, birdandthebottle.com
Also great: Lobster mac and cheese at Willi’s Wine Bar in Santa Rosa. 1415 Town and Country Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-526-3096, starkrestaurants.com
Eze, France – April 21, 2022: Details with a 2 Michelin stars restaurant sign. (Mircea Moira/Shutterstock)
In chef circles, it’s long been known that winning a Michelin star — once considered the ultimate accolade — can also be the kiss of death for a restaurant. Higher expectations from diners, increased pressure on chefs, and the poaching of workers and suppliers hiking up costs are the dark side of the prestigious spotlight.
A recently released study by University College London (UCL) has borne out the assumption, at least statistically, after tracking the success or failure of hundreds of highly rated New York City restaurants between 2000 and 2019. It found that 40% of the restaurants had closed by 2019, while only one out of every five highly rated but non-Michelin restaurants had closed over the same time period.
“While restaurateurs frequently reflected on a feeling of achievement after receiving a Michelin star and highlighted that this led to a heightened focus on their restaurant, their staffs, and themselves, the consequences of Michelin stars were not all necessarily favorable,” said author Daniel B. Sands in the report, released in September.
The dining room at K&L Bistro in Sebastopol in 2014. K&L Bistro struggled to meet customers’ exacting demands after receiving a Michelin star and closed in 2022. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Public notice of the 124-year-old French arbiter of outstanding cooking remains highly coveted in the restaurant world. However, nearly a dozen Michelin-starred Wine Country restaurants have closed or significantly changed their format since receiving the award.
The former K&L Bistro in Sebastopol and Mirepoix in Windsor, for example, both struggled to meet customers’ exacting demands after receiving Michelin stars. Mirepoix closed just a year after winning a Michelin star in 2012. Other restaurants, including Applewood (Guerneville), Redd (Yountville), Ubuntu (Napa), Etoile (Yountville) and Martini House (St. Helena), have also closed despite critical acclaim.
Crispy Chicken Paillard with green chermoula and a tahini-garlic dressing from Studio Barndiva Friday, February 23, 2024 in Healdsburg. After receiving its first Michelin star in 2021, Barndiva abandoned its complex, multicourse menu in early 2024. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
After receiving its first Michelin star in 2021, Barndiva abandoned its complex, multicourse menu in early 2024, replacing it with a more casual, community-minded focus. Michelin two-star winner Cyrus closed in Healdsburg in 2012 following a lease dispute. The new Cyrus, which opened a decade later in Geyserville, received a Michelin star just months after opening in 2022.
According to the exhaustive UCL study, restaurateurs “at risk” of receiving a Michelin star should plan for the inevitable disruptions.
“Not all the effects of Michelin stars are bad,” author Sands said. “Some (restaurants) perform fine and are successful post-Michelin star, but in the end, sometimes these stressors are too much for a restaurant to withstand.”
The Mediterranean platter, onion rings and a tuna melt at D’s Diner in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Call me a restaurant tuna salad skeptic. There are so many things that need to be just right: the freshness of the salad, the mayo-to-tuna ratio, the bread, perfectly melted American cheese and my penchant for pickle relish.
But D’s Diner in Sebastopol is always a top choice when I’m feeling the tug of a toasted tuna sandwich.
The fresh albacore tuna melt on grilled sourdough at D’s Diner in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)Mediterranean platter with pita, falafel, hummus and baba ganoush at D’s Diner in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Now, it’s even closer to home with the opening of a second D’s Diner location at 750 Stony Point Road in Santa Rosa, replacing a former Superburger spot. Owner Musa Awad has joined forces with his son, Nabih, to bring the burgers, salads, sandwiches and tasty tuna salad to the new restaurant that opened in early September.
“We’re gonna be big,” said Musa Awad of his “not-so-fast food” diner.
The new restaurant will start serving the full breakfast options available in Sebastopol at the end of the month. Don’t miss the housemade Middle Eastern-style gyros, hummus, falafel and baba ganoush, along with onion rings and housemade Ranch.
7260 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol, 707-829-8080; 750 Stony Point Road, Suite A-190, Santa Rosa, 707-843-3041
The local distillery fall cocktail lineup includes, from left, Harvest Moon/Elk Fence Distillery Ancho Chili Bourbon Old Fashioned/Barber Lee Spirits and By the Bushel/Alley 6 Craft Distillery Saturday October 12, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Grape harvest may be the first thing that comes to mind when thinking of fall in Sonoma County, but there’s really no good reason the season should be limited to only fine wine.
Just like vintners, local craft distillers embrace the spirit of autumn, shaking up their repertoire with cocktails infused with seasonal flavors like nutmeg, cinnamon, vanilla and cardamom.
We asked a handful of Sonoma County distillers to share recipes for their favorite fall cocktails. From a coffee-lovers’ libation to a drink that highlights local apples and peaches, here are five you can make at home. Or simply head to one of these tasting rooms to learn from the pros.
The By the Bushel cocktail features Alley 6 Craft Distillery’s Spiced Peach liqueur and Candy Cap Bitters along with honey, fresh apple and lemon juice and garnished with a dehydrated orange slice, Tuesday, October 8, 2024 in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Alley 6 Craft Distillery
By the Bushel: You get a double dose of Alley 6 (1401 Grove St., Suite D, Healdsburg) deliciousness in this cocktail. The Spiced Peach Liqueur is made from local fruit from Healdsburg’s Dry Creek Peach, and the 86’d Candy Cap Bitters is composed of Candy Cap mushrooms foraged at the Sonoma Coast.
Why it’s good for fall: “This cocktail is essentially fall in a glass — cozy, comforting, and with a kick,” said Krystle Jorgensen, co-owner of Alley 6 Craft Distillery. “Alley 6 Spiced Peach Liqueur — think peach cobbler in a bottle — pairs beautifully with locally sourced apple cider for an extra orchard-fresh punch. The Candy Cap Bitters, made from mushrooms that smell like maple syrup, add an earthy sweetness without being overpowering.”
About the distillery: Alley 6 Craft Distillery is owned and operated by Jorgensen and her husband, Jason. The couple focuses on small-batch, in-house production. A visit to their tasting room will make you appreciate their deep commitment to sourcing local ingredients.
Recipe: By the Bushel
2 ounces Alley 6 Spiced Peach Liqueur
1 ounce fresh-pressed apple cider (preferably from local Gravenstein apples)
1/2 ounce fresh lemon juice
1/4 ounce honey (optional for more sweetness)
6-8 drops Alley 6 86’d Candy Cap Bitters
Garnish: dehydrated lemon or orange wheel and a cinnamon stick or ground cinnamon.
In a cocktail shaker, combine Alley 6 Spiced Peach Liqueur, apple cider, lemon juice and honey (if using). Shake vigorously with ice until chilled. Strain into a lowball or short glass over a large ice cube. Add 6-8 drops of Alley 6 86’d Candy Cap Bitters on top to amplify the earthy, mushroomy sweetness. Garnish with a dehydrated lemon or orange wheel and a cinnamon stick, or dust with cinnamon powder.
The Barber Lee Spirits Ancho Chili Bourbon Old Fashioned features their Heirloom Corn Straight Bourbon Thursday, October 11, 2024 in Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Barber Lee Spirits
Ancho Chili Bourbon Old Fashioned: This cocktail highlights Barber Lee Spirits (120 Washington St., Petaluma) Heirloom Corn Bourbon. It’s a riff on an Old Fashioned; a little sweet, a little smoky.
Why it’s good for fall: “The Ancho Reyes and bitters give this cocktail a great warming effect, perfect for keeping the fall chill at bay,” said Lorraine Barber, co-owner of Barber Lee Spirits.
About the distillery: Owned by a hardworking trio comprised of wife-and-husband vintners, Lorraine and Michael Barber, and their friend, Aaron Lee, the Barber Lee Spirits tasting room is a cozy retreat with distressed leather furniture and views of the barrel aging room. Tasting options vary, but one of the most popular experiences includes three spirits and a cocktail of your choice.
Recipe: Ancho Chili Bourbon Old Fashioned
2 ounces Barber Lee Spirits Heirloom Corn Bourbon
1/2 ounce Ancho Reyes Mexican Chile Liqueur
1 dash Batch One Bitter Girl Bitters
1/4 ounce Madeira
Bar spoon of brown sugar
Muddle brown sugar with Ancho Reyes Mexican Chile Liqueur and bitters in a mixing tin. Add ice, Madeira and Barber Lee Spirits Heirloom Corn Bourbon, and stir for approximately 30 seconds. Strain into rocks glass with fresh ice and enjoy.
Recipe notes: The Batch One is made locally by Bitter Girl Bitters in Penngrove (bittergirlbitters.com). The Ancho Reyes Mexican Chile Liqueur is made in Puebla City, Mexico (anchoreyes.com). Madeira, a fortified wine made in Portugal, is widely available throughout Northern California.
Elk Fence Distillery
Harvest Moon: This cocktail features Golden Owl Barrel Aged Gin, a new spirit from Elk Fence Distillery (464 Kenwood Court, Suite E, Santa Rosa). Elk Fence, which has produced spirits since 2019 and opened to the public in 2022, is the only distillery in Santa Rosa.
Why it’s good for fall: “Not only does it visually represent fall colors, it also dives right into some of the harvest flavors we have come to cherish in sweater season in Sonoma County, such as roasted nuts, allspice and harvest grapes,” said Scott Woodson, co-owner of Elk Fence Distillery.
About the distillery: Woodson owns and operates Elk Fence Distillery with Gail Coppinger (the friends met while working on a construction project). Their Speakeasy-inspired tasting room serves up a dose of nostalgia with its craft spirits and cocktails, featuring a bar from the 1880s made entirely of redwood and an upright Steinway piano from the 1890s that guests are encouraged to play.
The Harvest Moon cocktail from Elk Fence Distillery features their Golden Owl Barrel Aged Gin Friday, October 12, 2024 in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Combine all ingredients except the club soda in a cocktail shaker half-filled with ice. Shake until cold. Strain into a coupe or rocks glass. Top with club soda and garnish with fresh orange wheel.
Recipe notes: Frangelico is a hazelnut liqueur made in Italy (frangelico.com). Amontillado Sherry is readily available throughout Sonoma County.
Why it’s good for fall: “The rich flavors of nutmeg, cardamom, pumpkin and walnut perfectly complement the rich, dark flavors of our Cold Brew [Coffee Liqueur] and angular toffee notes in our flagship whiskey,” said Kat Prescott, tasting room manager at Griffo Distillery.
About the distillery: Mike and Jenny Griffo cofounded Griffo Distillery in 2013. The distillery officially launched in Petaluma with its first gin in 2015. In addition to cocktails and craft spirit tastings, the tasting room offers a robust calendar of events including live music, food trucks and trivia.
Cafe Calabaza cocktail by Griffo Distillery in Petaluma. (Courtesy of Griffo Distillery)
Combine ingredients in cocktail shaker, add ice, shake vigorously for 20 seconds, then strain over a large ice cube. Garnish with orange peel and three espresso beans.
Recipe notes: The Morning Wood Barrel Aged Coffee Bitters is made locally by Bitter Girl Bitters in Penngrove (bittergirlbitters.com). The Cardamom Clove Syrup is created in small batches and bottled by hand by FloraLuna Apothecary & Trading Co. in Petaluma (floralunaapothecary.com). The Pumpkin Spiced Latte Syrup is made by Sonoma Syrup Co. in Sonoma (sonomasyrup.com).
Mulled Mule by Hanson of Sonoma. (Courtesy of Hanson of Sonoma)
Hanson of Sonoma
Mulled Mule: This vodka cocktail from Hanson of Sonoma (22985 Burndale Road, Sonoma) features the label’s organic Mandarin Vodka infused with seasonal flavors, including vanilla, nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves.
Why it’s good for fall: “The Mulled Mule is refreshing, but also cozy at the same time,” said Alanna Hanson, co-owner of Hanson of Sonoma. “The bright citrus from the lime pairs perfectly with the warmth of the Mandarin Spice Infused Vodka. Topped off with ginger beer, it brings a spicy, earthy flavor that’s ideal for any fall gathering.”
About the distillery: Hanson of Sonoma’s Wine Country tasting room features a lovely Spirits Garden, complete with a wood-fired pizza oven and views of the fall hues taking hold in neighboring vineyards. On a sunny, fall day you can order a specialty pizza and seasonal cocktail while soaking up Sonoma County’s great outdoors.
1 ounce fresh squeezed lime juice (organic preferred)
1/2 ounce agave (organic preferred)
Ginger Beer
Garnish: fresh lime wheel or dried orange slice
Add Hanson of Sonoma Organic Mandarin Spice Infused Vodka, lime juice and agave to a copper mule cup and stir. Fill with ice and top with ginger beer.
Garnish with fresh lime wheel or dried orange slice.
Recipe: Hanson Mandarin Spice Infused Vodka
1 bottle of Hanson Organic Mandarin Vodka
1 vanilla bean
1 whole nutmeg
2 cinnamon sticks
5 whole cloves
Slice vanilla bean down its length. Microplane the outside of the whole nutmeg to expose its flavor (you can use the shavings, too). Add cinnamon sticks and cloves. Let everything soak in the vodka bottle for about two days, then strain.
Grilled cheese with birria on Texas Toast is a menu option at Galvan’s Eatery in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin / Sonoma Magazine)
KQED’s award-winning “Check, Please! Bay Area” restaurant review series will be back next month with a roundup of new locals’ picks from in and around San Francisco, including a Napa restaurant as well as a Rohnert Park food festival.
Host Leslie Sbrocco and three Bay Area locals discussed favorite eateries during the new season of the four-episode series, which airs Thursdays beginning at 7:30 p.m., Nov. 7, on KQED 9.
KQED’s announcement of the episode lineup stated reporter Cecilia Phillips of “Cecilia Tries It” sampled the food festival’s gourmet eats. Food included “local Sonoma bites” as well as “globally inspired street food.”
Cecilia Phillips paid a visit to Rohnert Park’s Fork’n Good Food Festival to try various foods for an episode of KQED’s “Check Please, Bay Area!” Pictured is Phillips, right, with a Flamin’ Hot Cheeto-crusted burger from Santa Rosa’s Indian Village Eats. (Courtesy Check Please, Bay Area!)Grilled cheese with birria on Texas Toast is a menu option at Galvan’s Eatery in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
The SoCo Market started the Fork’n Good Food Festival last year, held at Rohnert Park’s SOMO Village. The festival returned in May this year and again in September with over 40 food trucks spanning various cuisines.
Many Bite Club favorites appeared in the food truck lineup, such as Ápí Hot Chicken, War Pigs BBQ (which now has a restaurant on Marlow Road), Galvan’s Eatery, Lila’s Streetside Eats and Healdsburg’s The Wurst. Other county-based food trucks included Moxies Frozen Yogurt, Mama Zara Empanadas, Jamerikan Jerk, Tri-Tip Trolley and Chocolate Things 707.
Click through the above gallery to check out the eats you can expect to find at The SoCo Market’s Fork’n Good Food Festival.
‘Check, Please!’ visits Napa
On its Nov. 14 episode, “Check, Please!” visits Villa Corona in Napa, where the crew samples “delicious Mexican favorites like platos de carne and tacos de pescado.”
The family-owned Villa Corona, which also has locations in Vacaville and St. Helena, originally began as Villa Azteca in 1972. It changed names to Villa Corona in 1983. The restaurant is known for generous servings, friendly service and an artsy atmosphere (catch the Mexican-themed paintings adorning the walls).
