Dozens of Sonoma County wines sport the Petaluma Gap designation on their labels, yet the appellation isn’t often the first one people think of when they plan a wine tasting excursion.
Sure, the wind-swept appellation grows excellent Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah, and the terrain is beautiful, but there just aren’t a whole lot of wineries in the area. In fact, you can count the number of tasting rooms on a couple of hands and maybe part of one foot.
Keller Estate, set on a lovely property just a few miles from downtown Petaluma, shines a well-deserved spotlight on this under-the-radar region.
The story
Keller Estate is no newbie to Petaluma’s winemaking scene. Founder Arturo Keller was born and raised in Mexico City and created a successful business there producing seats for the auto industry before veering off onto a new path. In the early ‘80s, Keller and his wife, Deborah, purchased a 600-acre property in Petaluma and planted Chardonnay at the site in 1989.
The Kellers sold the grapes to Rombauer Vineyards for many years before making the leap from growers to vintners. In 2000, they hired Mexican architect Ricardo Legorreta to design their namesake winery. Their daughter Ana Keller now runs the family business.
The vibe
The late Arturo Keller’s lifelong love of vintage automobiles is a big part of the winery vibe. Near the entrance, visitors are greeted by a life-size sculpture of the founder behind the wheel of an open-top 1929 Mercedes-Benz. Parked inside the tasting room — a welcoming space with wood beam ceilings, terra-cotta tiles and colorful art — are cars from Keller’s impressive collection, such as the snazzy 1910 Ford Model T currently on display.
The tasting room opens out onto a pretty stone courtyard, a scenic spot for seated tastings with sweeping views of the Petaluma River Valley. Visitors can also book a tasting in the winery’s Collection Room, home to a rotating lineup of vintage cars dating from 1900 to 1960.
On the palate
Keller’s star varieties are estate-grown Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah. If, like me, you’re a fan of Chardonnays that are on the leaner side — but not too far on the spectrum — you’ll love the 2021 Oro de Plata ($42). It’s fermented and aged in stainless steel instead of oak, so the bright fruit takes center stage. It has some attractive tropical fruit notes and a brisk acidity that brings it all into balance.
The 2021 La Cruz Chardonnay ($52), fermented and aged in oak barrels, has a similar pineapple thing going on, but the wine has a creamier texture and a richer mouthfeel. Among the Pinots, the 2021 El Coro ($70) is deep and complex, with a ripe black cherry vibe, while the 2019 Rôtie Syrah ($65) shows the softer side of this often-brawny grape. Tastings range from $40 to $85 per person.
Beyond the bottles
Keller is tapping into its Mexican roots Nov. 2 with a Dia de los Muertos Fiesta on the winery plaza ($125 per person). It features a communal altar for displaying photos of departed loved ones, plus traditional dancing, music, wine and street food.
On Thursdays from Nov. 7 through March 27, Keller will host “Loteria Night,” billed as a “bingo night with a Latin flair.” Just $20 gets you into the game with a glass of wine.
Keller Estate, 5875 Lakeville Highway, Petaluma. Open Wednesday to Sunday by reservation. 707-765-2117, kellerestate.com
Tina Caputo is a wine, food and travel writer whose work has appeared in numerous publications, including SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, HuffPost and Sonoma magazine. Follow Tina on Twitter @winebroad, view her website at tinacaputo.com and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.