California Urges All Restaurants to Close Dining Rooms, Takeout or Delivery Only

Just before 10 p.m. Monday night, the California Department of Public Health (CDPH) outlined new regulations urging all California restaurants to close their dining rooms indefinitely to prevent the transmission of COVID-19. Pick-up, delivery and drive-through service will not be affected.

Just one day earlier, Gov. Gavin Newsom asked all bars and nightclubs to close and restaurants space out tables over worries about community transmission in enclosed spaces. As the pandemic continues to affect life around the world, it did not come as a surprise that the CDPH extended more broad-reaching guidance yesterday.

“We know this isn’t easy,” said state Sen. Mike McGuire, D-Healdsburg, reacting to the news. “Thank you for your cooperation.”

The drastic public safety move will likely leave thousands of local food industry workers — from servers and cooks to bar staff and dishwashers — without work indefinitely as restaurateurs move to simpler menus and shed staff to comply with the most recent recommendations.

“We laid off everyone except our two salaried sous chefs. Hardest day of my “hospitality” life,” said Chef Matthew Williams of Ramen Gaijin in Sebastopol.

Having weathered fires, floods, and evacuations, local restaurants are now facing a whole new set of economic challenges. Bracing for what seemed inevitable after restaurant closure orders in New York, Massachusetts, Ohio, Washington and Illinois, most Sonoma County restaurants and food purveyors — from high-end luxury spots in Healdsburg to small bakeries and pizzerias — have already pivoted to providing curbside takeout or delivery.

Others, however, have decided to close entirely. Sondra Bernstein’s Girl and the Fig in Sonoma, and Trading Post in Cloverdale proactively decided to close their businesses on Monday.

Bernstein, whose Sonoma-based businesses include The Girl and The Fig, Fig Cafe and Wine Bar, Girl and the Fig Caters, Suite D, The Fig Rig and Fig Cakes and Sweets, said she is taking a cue from the many cancellations across the country.

“Our staff needs the work,” Bernstein said, “We know this will be a financial challenge for all of us, but we know it is the right decision on this day. We want to do what we can do to curb the spread of germs and the virus, and we believe that this is in the best interest of public health.”

Already operating on thin margins, restaurant owners can ill-afford even a few days without customers. The prospect of weeks or months of disrupted service could result in many restaurants throwing in the towel. Some, like Gaijin’s Williams said they are already looking into loans set up by the Small Business Administration to help them get through.

Restaurant workers may face an even bleaker future. The vast majority are paid low wages and do not qualify for paid vacations, family leave or significant sick time. It’s a problem that’s long plagued an industry where workers typically live paycheck to paycheck. The only real solution is to file for unemployment — assuming they are documented workers who qualify for assistance.

On Monday, Gov. Newsom issued an executive order authorizing local governments to halt evictions for renters and homeowners, slow foreclosures and protect against utility shutoffs for Californians affected by COVID-19 until late May.

It’s a temporary stopgap for an increasing number of Californians who’ve lost wages or been laid off due to COVID-19.

“People shouldn’t lose or be forced out of their home because of the spread of COVID-19,” said Governor Newsom. “Over the next few weeks, everyone will have to make sacrifices – but a place to live shouldn’t be one of them. I strongly encourage cities and counties take up this authority to protect Californians.”

A federal bill that would provide free coronavirus testing, paid leave and sick time for struggling workers affected by COVID-19 job loss was approved by the House of Representatives but remains in the Senate. The bill would also provide aid for food and childcare.

This is a developing story, which will be updated.

Love Big Bottom Market’s Biscuits? The Owner Is Giving Fans a Reason to Smile During Coronavirus Pandemic

Biscuits from Big Bottom Market in Guerneville. (Chris Hardy/For Sonoma Magazine)

The biscuits at Big Bottom Market have always been a good reason to make the trip to Guerneville. (Oprah Winfrey is a big fan.) As many are now staying home due to the coronavirus pandemic, Big Bottom Market owner and cookbook author Michael Volpatt is taking to social media to share a taste of his restaurant with folks near and far.

Using Facebook Live, Volpatt is inviting viewers to join him in his kitchen for a virtual cooking class every day at 3 p.m. On Saturday afternoon, he prepared a marinara sauce his mom made for him as a kid. He called it “Sharonara” in her honor.

Posted by Michael Volpatt on Saturday, March 14, 2020

“I thought no one was going to watch it,” said Volpatt, but, as he was cooking, he realized to his surprise that people were tuning in, including friends he had not seen in a long time. “I’m going to keep doing this because I’m having fun,” he said. “I want to create a distraction and a happy place for people.”

On Sunday, Volpatt made pickling radishes look easy, and at 3 p.m. today, he will be making Farro salad with turkey. Along with posting the recipes online, he’s taking the opportunity to highlight some of his favorite local products, such as Olive Queen olive oil from Forestville.

So far, he’s just been leaning his phone against whatever object he can easily grab in his kitchen, but a mini tripod is on order.

“The point of this is to give people an escape. Hopefully they can utilize it while we figure out what’s happening with our lives,” said Volpatt.

Big Bottom Market restaurant and speciality food store is closing this afternoon. The restaurant had lots of arugula and spinach on hand so they made pesto this morning and gave it to customers. One community member that came by to stock up on supplies requested Volpatt cover how to make homemade pasta in his online kitchen, so look for that cooking lesson in the coming days.

It’s worth noting that, even though Big Bottom Market will be closing, you can still order their products online. In addition to the cooking lessons on Facebook, you can get updates on Instagram @ big_bottom_market and @fabtasticsweetie.

Sondra Bernstein Closes Her Sonoma County Restaurants

The Girl & the Fig restaurant in Sonoma. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

In what may be a sign of things to come, Chef Sondra Bernstein has decided to temporarily close all of her restaurants and catering businesses effective immediately in response to COVID-19.

(Also announcing temporary closure: Trading Post, Cloverdale. More to come on additional closures.)

Bernstein, whose Sonoma-based businesses include The Girl and The Fig, Fig Cafe and Wine Bar, Girl and the Fig Caters, Suite D, The Fig Rig and Fig Cakes and Sweets, said in an email Monday that she is taking a cue from the many cancellations across the country.

It’s a proactive measure that Bernstein said was difficult. “Our staff needs the work,” she said, “We know this will be a financial challenge for all of us, but we know it is the right decision on this day. We want to do what we can do to curb the spread of germs and the virus, and we believe that this is in the best interest of public health.”

On Sunday, Gov. Newsom recommended that all bars, brewpubs and tasting rooms in the state should temporarily close. In Los Angeles, Mayor Eric Garcetti then announced the closure of all restaurants except for pickup or delivery until March 31. Sonoma County officials may choose to follow that example in the coming days as more cases of COVID-19 are diagnosed.

Local restaurateurs are already working hard to set up pickup and delivery, though restaurants remain open.

A Delicious Mess at Simmer Claw Bar in Rohnert Park

Salt and pepper crab, tamarind prawns, crawfish boil at Simmer Claw Bar in Rohnert Park. Heather Irwin/PD

I am covered from fingertip to elbow in shards of crab shells, simmer sauce, prawn juice and garlic, looking desperately for a Wet-Nap. Next to me, a pile of sticky, crumbled napkins bravely bear witness to the seafood carnage that has just occurred.

There is nothing dainty about a steaming pile of boiled crawfish, mussels, crab and clams served up family style, without silverware. Fortunately, there are bibs, gloves and lots of wet napkins to keep things from veering too far off course.

Suit up and dive in, because you’re about to become a hot mess at Simmer Claw Bar. And that’s OK.

“This is a very involved food,” said owner Nhat Le (whose family also owns Simmer Vietnamese restaurants in Rohnert Park and Petaluma). “If you want a fork and spoon this isn’t the place for you,” he said with a grin.

Salt and pepper crab, tamarind prawns, crawfish boil at Simmer Claw Bar in Rohnert Park. Heather Irwin/PD
Salt and pepper crab, tamarind prawns, crawfish boil at Simmer Claw Bar in Rohnert Park. (Heather Irwin)

Recently opened in Rohnert Park, the sprawling restaurant features a mashup of Vietnamese and Cajun cuisine, or Viet-Cajun.

Though Simmer Claw Bar is the first of its kind in Sonoma County, the trend of Southern-meets-Saigon seafood boils has been making its way across the country for several years. In fact, Momofuku Chef David Chang’s Netflix show, Ugly Delicious, spent an entire episode delving into the not-as-weird-as-you’d-think culinary friendship.

“People might think it’s weird, but it’s all based on French techniques,” Le said. It’s a style of food he frequently traveled to find in Oakland or San Jose but couldn’t get locally.

So how did these culinary cousins come together? A large Vietnamese immigrant population in Houston married the bold seafood boils of the Gulf region with familiar flavors from home and created a hybrid that speaks to the French and regional influences of each.

At Simmer Claw Bar, that means live crawfish flown in from Louisiana with a signature sauce that includes garlic, butter, citrus and — that’s as far as Le will go with his secret recipe. There’s also simple lemon pepper, garlic butter and Cajun sauces, each with its own fans.

This kind of food is best experienced socially, as anyone who’s been to a seafood boil can tell you. Popping the heads off shrimp with your bare hands tends to be something best shared with close friends, though it’s also a bellwether of a strong relationship if you can chow down on gobs of garlic together.

If you’re squeamish about seafood looking back at you from the plate, “Claw Bites” like fish and chips ($12), fried frog legs ($12), coconut shrimp ($10) or chicken tenders may be more your speed. Korean Short Ribs ($18) or shaking beef ($21) made with filet mignon are both delicious and flavorful as an alternative or side dish.

Best Bets

Seafood Boil: Much of the seafood is sold at “market price,” with prices on the daily specials board. Typically available are head-on shrimp, snow crab legs, King Crab legs, crawfish, Dungeness crab, Manila clams, mussels and lobster.

You can mix and match or buy by the pound, and sauces (lemon pepper, garlic butter, Cajun or their signature Simmer Sauce) kick up the party. Choose the heat level and add-ons like corn on the cob, sausage or potatoes.

You’ll get plastic bag filled with steaming crustaceans and shellfish you’ll dump into a pie pan for sharing. Or eat right out of the bag if you want. Go nuts.

The Whole Shebang, $75: Five pounds of boiled seafood that includes crawfish, clams, shrimp and mussels with corn, potatoes and sausage. Pick your sauce and your heat level.
Salt and Pepper Crab, MP: Local Dungeness is quartered and flash fried, with a sweet, fresh flavor you can only get from live crab. A large tank in the kitchen is a temporary home to both crab and lobsters, who make a short trip from pot to plate. We especially love the fried bits left attached inside the shell that are sweet, briny and crunchy.

Tamarind Prawns, $14: Whole prawns (shell on) get a shellacking with sweet-sour tamarind sauce that compliments the sweetness of the prawns.

Garlic Noodles, $8: Slippery noodles with gobs of pungent garlic. As if you needed more garlic (you do).

Simmer Claw Bar is at 595 Rohnert Park Expressway, Rohnert Park, 707-806-2080. Open Monday through Friday from 2 p.m. to 10 p.m. and weekends from 1 p.m. to 10 p.m. Happy hour 2 to 6 p.m.

Owners of Estero Cafe Bring Americana Restaurant to Santa Rosa

Hamburgers Twisted Horn Ranch Burger, Estero Cafe, $13: 14450 Hwy. 1, Valley Ford, 707-876-3333, facebook.com/esterocafe.

The owners of Valley Ford’s Estero Cafe quietly opened their new Railroad Square restaurant last week. It was a quick turnaround after the departure of Pullman Kitchen, and they’re serving many favorite breakfast and lunch items from Estero.

That means all-day mimosas, Stemple Creek chicken fried steak with biscuits and their amazing Huevos Rancheros. We’re excited about the “breakfast salad,” a tasty way to get your veggies and have your bacon and crispy potatoes, too.

Feeling stressed? Trust me, we all are, and a tasty tuna melt or grilled cheese on Red Bird Bakery sourdough or a slice of pie sound pretty good right about now.

Open Wednesday to Sunday, 7:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Expect a dinner menu and more details soon. 205 Fifth St., Suite A, Santa Rosa, 707-867-2220.

Stark’s Grossman’s Noshery & Bar to Open in Santa Rosa March 20

The dining area at Grossman's Noshery and Bar in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin)
The dining area at Grossman’s Noshery and Bar in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin)

Employees of Mark and Terri Stark’s restaurants have been eating a lot of bagels lately. With just one week until the opening of their much anticipated Jewish deli and bakery, the staff of the new Grossman’s Noshery and Bar has been pumping out test batches of not only bagels, but bialys, rye bread, chocolate babka and rugelach.

Bagel test batch for Grossman's. Photo: @sandwichcrusher Instagram
Bagel test batch for Grossman’s. Photo: @sandwichcrusher Instagram

“It’s carb heaven right now,” said Terri, who designed much of the Railroad Square’s restaurant’s interior and has spent more than a year studying (and tasting through) the menus of historic Jewish delis like Russ and Daughters or Katz’s in New York with Mark and the Stark’s key staff.  Executive Chef de Cuisine David Zimmerman actually brought back Brooklyn water for the bagel starter so, “on a molecular level it’s got New York in it”, he said.

The massive restaurant kitchen and bakery space inside the Hotel La Rose will eventually do much of the baking and production for all of the Stark properties (currently Willi’s Wine Bar, Bravas, Willi’s Seafood, Monti’s, Bird and Bottle and Stark’s Steak and Seafood).

The dining area at Grossman's Noshery and Bar in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
The dining area at Grossman’s Noshery and Bar in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD

The restaurant itself will seat about 60, with a full bar and lounge area, restaurant-style seating, an outdoor patio (coming by May 1) and a walk-up deli, coffee and retail area for folks heading for the nearby SMART train or needing a quick nosh.

Yes, there will be matzoh ball soup, pastrami sandwiches, pickled herring, egg salad, tongue sandwiches, lox and all manner of schmears. Yes, there will be the impossible-to-find salt bagels and house-made rye bread. There will also be a few regional specialties such as Khachapuri (a Georgian cheese bread topped with a soft egg), Sabich (Israeli eggplant sandwich on house-made pita) and soft serve frozen Labneh (a thick and creamy yogurt “cheese”) with sweet toppings. 

Let’s just say Grossman’s got all the matzo-licious deli food New York and LA transplants have been patiently waiting for — including caviar and vodka pairings, pelmeni (like piroshki), and smoked whitefish, and…I’ve said too much. You’ll have to wait.

Khachapuri, a Georgian cheese bread topped with a soft egg, at Grossman’s Noshery & Bar in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy photo)

The interior is modern-diner with cozy booths and tables, brass and glass partitions, and a black and white tile floor made to look like it’s been there “for a hundred years.” The big eye-catcher is what Terri calls “hip grandma” wallpaper emblazoned with a jungle of brilliant botanicals, monkeys and birds. A life-sized chimp she’s named Stanley hangs bemusedly in a nearby window well, overseeing the caviar refrigerator and cold case, perhaps waiting for some wayward challah bread pudding to come his way.

Chef/owner Mark Stark oversees the menu, but longtime Stark chef Matt Weinberger is heading kitchen operations, most recently of Bravas and Willi’s Wine Bar. Weinberger is leaning on some of his grandma’s recipes to inspire the flavors of some menu items, said Stark.

Cassandra Powers will head the baking program, and Spencer Osburg (Bravas) will head front of house.

Grossman’s Noshery and Bar is located inside Hotel La Rose, 308 Wilson St, Santa Rosa, and will be open from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. An opening date has been set for March 20.

Sonoma County Tops OpenTable’s List of Best Restaurants in Wine Country

Looking for the best restaurants in Wine Country? Online reservation service OpenTable has just released its 2020 list of the top 10 restaurants in Sonoma and Napa counties. This year, Sonoma County tops the list with 8 restaurants (including wine and food pairings), compared to only 2 in Napa. The selection is based on more than 400,000 new diner reviews. Click through the above gallery to see which restaurants made the list.

Sonoma County Restaurants Focus on Takeout and Delivery Amid Coronavirus Pandemic

Trish Davis doesn’t rely on machines when making her crusts. Each morning she rolls out the dough by hand at The Whole Pie in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

With rising concerns about public interaction during the coronavirus outbreak, Chef Daniel Kedan took to Facebook on Thursday urging customers to try takeout from his Forestville restaurant instead of staying away altogether.

“If you are not comfortable dining in at this time, please call in a to-go order (yes our entire menu is available to go!), or buy a few gift certificates now, that you can redeem in the summertime when we are a lot busier,” said the owner of Backyard.

It’s just one strategy many Sonoma County food industry players are proactively taking to buoy in an already-difficult situation.

Operating on thin margins, most suffered significant financial losses during the 2017 and 2019 wildfires and subsequent power outages. With tourism lagging, COVID-19 is yet another hit.

“Hospitality based businesses are going to be hit the worst in this. We’re trying anything to keep business coming in. I’m not sure how we as restaurants will survive another catastrophe,” Kedan said. “We will be pushing (our whole menu) to-go so we can keep people employed,” he added.

“Just over here holding my breath wondering what will happen,” said Samantha Ramey of Estero Cafe in Valley Ford. “I’ve heard from other (restaurant) owners that sales are down approximately 30 percent. We haven’t seen that, but obviously we have no idea right now,” she said.

Ramey and her husband opened Americana in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square last week, and though she is concerned, she said that they too will begin focusing on trying to offer pickup options.

Catering companies are already seeing huge impacts.

“Our cancellation rate is unprecedented,” said Tim Duffield, Senior Catering Manager for the Flamingo Hotel. “Even during the fires we didn’t see a cancelation rate that we’re seeing now. I’ve canceled 70 to 80 percent of the events over the next two weeks,” he said.

That included a planned catering event for 150 people on Thursday that was called off with less than 24 hours notice. Most of the food had already been prepared, he said. The client paid for the food and decided to donate it to a local charity.

At Ulia’s Delicatessen in Santa Rosa, foot traffic has dropped and two events were canceled, but business catering has skyrocketed. Office workers uncomfortable with leaving work and busy healthcare workers have put in hundreds of orders recently, according to Andrea Bostrom, catering and marketing manager at the deli.

“We have we have an order next week that goes up to about 500 people,” Bostrom said. The deli also had an order of 300 sandwiches for on Thursday.

Just Leave It Outside
Delivery is an option many restaurants already offer and others are seriously considering.

Companies like Grubhub, DoorDash, Uber Eats, Food Jets and PostMates deliver food for restaurateurs, but it can come at a high cost.

“We were talking today about having a curbside pick up. But man, setting up delivery is a whole other ball of wax. Kudos to those who can swing it,” said Davis. Delivery services charge business owners up to 30 percent of the total bill.  With slim profit margins those extra costs can crush small businesses.

With so much uncertainty, reservations from out-of-towners are also a concern. Reservations for dates weeks or months away are already dropping off, according to Dustin Valette of Valette restaurant in Healdsburg.

Throughout the day Thursday, local restaurants simply addressed stringent sanitation policies and safety measures via email or on social media.

“Relax your mind and feed your soul. We’ll continue to focus on a clean and safe meeting place so you don’t have to. A friendly reminder that we’ll always be here for you. Come let us share our love through delicious food and warm hospitality,” said Dino Bugica of Diavola and the Geyserville Gun Club on social media.

Alisse Cottle of Brew Coffee and Beer House suggests customers purchase a golden latte.

“We are so thankful that our community continues to support us and let us feed and nourish you during these stressful times. We are happy to take call-in orders for you to swing by and pick up if you wish. We recommend a @sisterharvest botanical cocoa or golden latte to nourish and boost your immune system.”

Or, you could always eat a cookie.

“We are going to be promoting that we ship and deliver,” said Tracy Mattson of Cookie! Take a Bite. “Cookies can make things a little better,” she said.

Restaurants could still be in for a rough ride.  In Seattle, well-known chef Tom Douglas has announced that he is closing 12 of his restaurants temporarily, according to the Seattle Times. He reported that his sales were down 90 percent since the outbreak which has all but shut down that city.

Here’s what other restaurants are saying…

Don’t want to dine out with the crowds? Then order take out from La Gare,” said a post from the longtime Railroad Square restaurant. They’re offering both their regular and gluten-free menu with the perk of VIP pickup parking in the alley next door.

Susie Pryfogle of TIPS Roadside restaurant in Kenwood said they’re already letting nearby residents in Oakmont, Kenwood and Glen Ellen know that they’re offering takeout and delivery from their restaurant.

“While we’re so grateful for all of our customers that are supporting TIPS Roadside every day, we also recognize there are many in our community that are increasingly worried about venturing out. We’re excited to begin our local delivery service so that those customers can still enjoy amazing food from the comfort of their own homes,” she said..

“Stockhome is getting signed up,” said Andrea Lunsford Sundell of her Petaluma restaurant that’s popular with families. She’s planning to use the Petaluma Food Taxi, a local delivery service.

“McNears is going to be sending menus for 10 to 100 for lunches for Petaluma businesses delivered and dropped or served with 24 hours notice. the meals we will be serving are buffet style. We will deliver them and serve the meals or not, depending on what the customer wants. our menus will be published tomorrow,” reports Ken O’Donnell.

Dry Creek Kitchen will be doing more “to go” options

Delivery of chocolates, toffees and other treats: Rainy Day Chocolates

Artisan Cheese Festival in Santa Rosa Canceled Due to Coronavirus Concerns

Jennifer Anakar, left, and Cindy Kennedy working the Cowgirl Creamery booth during the 11th annual California Artisan Cheese Festival held at the Sheraton Sonoma County in Petaluma Sunday. March 26, 2017. (Photo: Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)

One of the first big food events to be canceled due to coronavirus concerns: The 14th Annual California Artisan Cheese Festival, which was set for March 27-29.

“As this health crisis expands, we believe it is prudent to proactively acknowledge and react to the warnings by health officials about attending large gatherings,” said Judy Groverman Walker, executive director of the California Artisan Cheese Festival.

“As much as we are deeply saddened that our beloved festival will not happen this year, we know that the most important thing is to keep our community and the public safe and healthy.”

The festival, which attracted more than 2,500 people last year, brings together the state’s best cheesemakers, farmers, educators, authors, chefs, cheesemongers, brewers, distillers, winemakers, and cheese fanatics.

Wine Country Favorite Pigs & Pinot Returns to Healdsburg

Due to coronavirus concerns, Pigs & Pinot has been postponed.

Message from event organizers regarding coronavirus on Thursday, March 12, at 1 p.m: Following advisory from Sonoma County’s public health officer on Wednesday, March 11, out of an abundance of caution, Chef Charlie Palmer will postpone his 15th Annual Pigs & Pinot scheduled for March 20-21 at Hotel Healdsburg. New dates will be determined as the path to containment unfolds. With well-being as a crucial ingredient to conscientious hospitality, it was a difficult but clear choice.

Charlie Palmer’s annual Pigs & Pinot event, pairing pork dishes with great bottles of vino, is one of the hottest tickets in Wine Country. Now in its 15th year, the event benefits a variety of local charities. This year, it will take place March 20-21 in Healdsburg and feature bottles from more than 60 wineries and 20+ chefs. Click through the above gallery for a taste of the upcoming event.