Sonoma County may be a mecca for lovers of wine, beer, cider and spirits, but there’s plenty more local craft beverages to enjoy — minus the hangover. According to those in the know, no- and low-alcohol drinks are having a moment right now. In Sonoma County, more and more restaurants and bars are staying on trend with mocktails and no-booze beer. In addition to these alternatives, there are also the classics: like herbal tea and plain ol’ milk; drinks that stand out in their own right, without trying to be something that they’re not. Click through the above gallery for some of our favorite Sonoma-made, non-alcoholic beverages.
Windsor resident Mac McDonald founded the Association of African American Vintners in 2002, not long after he launched his Vision Cellars wine brand, proudly displaying an African mask on the label. Cultivating African Americans’ appreciation of wine and proving to all that Black winemakers can be as talented and skilled as others were AAAV’s chief goals. Encouraging people of color to seek careers in wine’s very white world was another.
Eighteen years later, McDonald is still mistaken for a hospitality employee at wine events at which he’s pouring. He’s often ignored when attempting to show his wines to retailers and challenged on his wine knowledge.
Nearly two decades after the creation of AAAV, fewer than 60 wineries in the country are operated by African Americans, according to Statista. A handful are in Sonoma and Mendocino counties, but one has had to look long and hard to find them.
Until now.
The U.S. wine industry is as white (and often wealthy) as they come, with Black faces rarely seen among producers, sommeliers, distributors, retailers and marketers. Yet the recent Black Lives Matter protests and national discussion about systemic racism have empowered African Americans to speak out about the disparity and demand inclusion, and their efforts are drawing trade and media attention.
Theodora Lee, owner and winemaker at Theopolis Vineyards in the Yorkville Highlands of Mendocino County, has seen sales of her 800-case-production petite sirah and symphony wines soar.
For the first time, being a Black vintner is a benefit.
“Since June 1, I’ve had more than 800 orders,” said the self-titled Theo-patra, Queen of the Vineyards, who is also a partner in a San Francisco law firm (Littler Mendelson) and a trial attorney focused on employment law. “It’s what’s in the bottle, but also media coverage. The burden of the Black vintner is real, but the focus is now on supporting Blacks. Finally, it’s less of a burden. I’m getting calls from retailers and restaurants (instead of me calling them). For the first time, being a Black vintner is a benefit.”
Dan Glover, a Santa Rosa-based winemaker, said sales of his L’Objet Noir wines jumped 200% in June. Chris Christensen, owner/winemaker of Bodkin Wines, also in Santa Rosa and with the wines produced at custom-crush facilities in Russian River Valley, said, “The response from the public has been overwhelming and humbling about what I’m doing. Our social media following doubled, and wine club and online orders increased.”
Like his African American winemaking colleagues, Christensen is not happy about the reason for this newfound attention on his wines. “I want to be known for my work, my wines,” he said. “I want to be viewed outside the context of my race. But with all that’s happened, a force is ignited in me in how I can give back to the community, how I can help more people, to get African Americans into the wine business.”
As a start, he has a wine project in the works, in which profits from the sales of the wines will go to the United Negro College Fund. A recent Instagram post: “The BEST Way to support a Black-Owned Winery is to JOIN THE WINE CLUB. Support on that level helps us keep our presence and wines flowing vintage after vintage.”
Locally, most Black-owned wineries have lacked visibility to consumers because they are small in production quantity, don’t own vineyards or winemaking facilities and don’t have tasting rooms. Lloyd Davis is an exception, as a partner in a New York hedge fund company who came to Sonoma to pull Viansa Winery out of bankruptcy in 2008.
“Within six months of moving to Sonoma, I’d fallen in love with the place and the wine business,” Davis said. “The cooperation of people in the industry is a beautiful thing. I haven’t experienced any obstacles (as an African American); it’s a very open, accepting community.”
Granted, Davis had the financial means to found Corner 103: A Sonoma Tasting Experience in 2015, after Viansa was sold to Vintage Wine Estates. He and his staff pour the Corner 103 wines and, until the pandemic shutdowns, made matching the wines with food a priority (pairings will resume in the future).
Davis, an AAAV member, said he’s found very little expressed discrimination toward him as an African American winery owner.
“I experienced more racial issues in finance than I have in wine,” he said with a chuckle. “Black, Hispanic, female, male, people come to Corner 103 to taste wine and have a great experience. They don’t know if I’m the owner or the janitor, and most don’t care.
“We’re 100% direct to consumer. In the tasting room environment, if a person doesn’t like Blacks, they don’t come in. I don’t have to deal with distributors or retailers, and that’s a different perspective.”
McDonald, Lee and others have seen the discriminatory side of that perspective, the exclusionary one, and welcome the day when the color of the winemaker is far less important than the hue of the wine.
Here are six local Black-owned wine businesses worth a look and taste:
Bodkin Wines
Native Iowan Chris Christensen moved west to study at Stanford University, where he was introduced to wine. He learned to make vino from the ground up at Sonoma wineries including Mauritson, Meeker and Medlock Ames. He went out on his own in 2011, starting Bodkin Wines and gaining instant attention with his sparkling sauvignon blanc, Cuvée Agincourt, the name referencing a battle during the Hundred Years’ War. Most of his grapes came from Lake County back then, as they were more affordable than those from Sonoma. Christensen has increasingly added more Alexander Valley and Dry Creek Valley fruit for his various other sparkling wines, sauvignon blancs, gewürztraminers, zinfandels and white and red dessert wines.
Lloyd Davis took what he learned from retooling nearby Viansa Winery and opened Corner 103, an intimate, stylish tasting room in downtown Sonoma. There, he and his staff pour wines Davis began making as he positioned Viansa for sale to Vintage Wine Estates. Wine and food matching has been the strong suit of Corner 103, and while coronavirus health measures have put the pairings program on hold for now, visitors (by appointment) can taste five wines for $20 per person. Winemaker Ron Goss, who Davis brought over from Viansa, excels at producing wines from throughout Sonoma County: Carneros chardonnay and pinot noir, Alexander Valley grenache, Sonoma Mountain zinfandel and more.
103 W. Napa Street, Sonoma, 707-931-6141, corner103.com
Fog Crest Vineyard
African American Rosalind Manoogian and her husband, James Manoogian, own this Russian River Valley vineyard, winery and tasting room, where former Saintsbury (Napa Valley) winemaker Jerome Chery produces their chardonnays, pinot noirs and rosés. Rosalind, the vice president of marketing, is often the host for visitors to this winery. Call ahead for appointments.
Danny Glover (no relation to the actor) was a songwriter and producer in Los Angeles when the wine bug bit him – specifically, the pinot noir bug. He moved to Sonoma, worked at wineries including Armida, Clos du Bois and Dutcher Crossing, then launched L’Objet Wines a decade ago, selling most bottles to his wine club. Glover’s current-release L’Objet Noir is a pinot noir from Russian River Valley’s Oehlman Vineyard; a Comstock Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc from Dry Creek Valley is also in the fold. Glover produces 600 cases or so a year of wine. Bodkin’s Chris Christensen calls him “Lethal Weapon;” Glover’s Twitter handle is #pinotnoirdude.
No tasting room; order wines by phone or online, 707-235-3153, lobjetwines.com
Theodora Lee of Theopolis Vineyards. (Courtesy photo)
Theopolis Vineyards
Labor law attorney Theodora Lee planted her 5-acre Yorkville Highland vineyard in 2003, selling the grapes to others, including Carlisle Winery & Vineyards in Santa Rosa. She made her first commercial vintage in 2014, and ever since, her petite sirah, symphony (a white wine made from a grape variety bred at UC Davis of muscat of Alexandria and grenache gris) and petite sirah rosé have won fans – and competition gold medals, with two golds won at the 2019 North Coast Wine Challenge in Santa Rosa.
“My idea is to help others appreciate wine,” said Edward Lee “Mac” McDonald. “It’s all about education.” McDonald, the son of an East Texas moonshiner and retired PG&E supervisor, founded Vision Cellars with his wife, Lil, after trying his hand at homemade wines. He’d made friends with Caymus Vineyards owner Charlie Wagner in Napa Valley and spent a lot of time there sampling the wines. Charlie and his son, Chuck, convinced McDonald that he was suited for the wine business, and they provided space in their cellar for Mac to make his wines. A gift bottle of Burgundy he received back in Texas stuck in his mind, and McDonald, now living in Windsor, decided to make pinot noir from top vineyards in California. The first vintage was 1997, and the couple has crisscrossed the country multiple times since, pouring at events and showing wines to the trade. McDonald continues to produce his wines at Caymus, though the grape sourcing is now focused on Sonoma County and the North Coast.
No tasting room; order at 707-836-4002 or online at visioncellars.com
Indoor dining at Sonoma County restaurants, only restored weeks ago, may be off the table as soon as early next week as the region’s surging coronavirus caseload sets in motion new restrictions that will likely mark another round of economic hardship for the already devastated hospitality industry.
It’s a bitter pill for restaurateurs who have spent weeks anticipating some semblance of normalcy, painstakingly training staff to comply with the complex maze of state and county protocols required for socially-distanced indoor dining. That’s after months of reworking business plans — sometimes on a daily basis — just to stay afloat and adapt to a business landscape upended in ways few could have imagined.
For most restaurant owners, indoor dining represents the bulk of their business. If it remains off limits for for a prolonged period ‒ and the state default is three weeks to begin with ‒ the make-or-break factor for much of the industry may come down to access to outdoor seating.
That’s daunting for restaurants like Ramen Gaijin in Sebastopol, which has a large indoor space, but only a handful of patio seats in its downtown location.
“It’s like picking and choosing winners,” said Matthew Williams, chef and co-owner. Pointing to restaurants like Petaluma’s Brewster’s, Bravas in Healdsburg or nearby Hopmonk, which have expansive outdoor spaces and ostensibly would be able to stay open, he said that he just can’t compete.
“We have like maybe 30 outdoor seats, and if it’s 90 degrees and there’s no shade, I don’t know if it’s worth it,” he said.
Hundreds of Sonoma County restaurants are facing the fight of their lives amid the pandemic and public health orders meant to curb the spread of a deadly contagion. After being battered by years of wildfires, power shutoffs, floods and the resulting lackluster tourism, it’s surprising that only a handful of restaurants have succumbed during the latest crisis.
But many restaurateurs who have stuck in the game this long are saying they’re not sure if they can hold out much longer, especially as federal aid and loans that have sustained them in the past several months may soon run out.
To survive, most have had to blend unsustainable and often conflicting plans that require outlays of time and money. Many have built patios, redesigned interiors, created entirely new menus and switched to takeout while immersing themselves in creative ways to enact new safety and sanitation requirements.
For Williams that meant spending several weeks transforming his indoor space to seat 75 people in multiple rooms. Opened just a week for indoor dining, the numbers were promising, allowing him to pay staff and keep the lights on.
But now Williams is facing the prospect of having to once again darken his dining room and pencil out how to keep the restaurant going while making no money and pouring cash into the next pandemic pivot.
“This is our family’s paycheck. I just don’t know how long I want to keep pushing if it’s going to deplete everything,” he said.
It’s a similar story for Kyle Connaughton of Healdsburg’s Single Thread Restaurant and Inn. A rising star in the restaurant world with a coveted three Michelin stars, Connaughton’s bespoke dining experiences rely on personal attention to every detail — from the edible centerpieces to custom-made furniture and an open kitchen experience. That’s not something easily done on a windy rooftop patio.
Since April, he’s relied on upscale takeout meals and partnerships with nonprofit groups to keep much of his large staff working and paid, but he estimates that his business is down 70% since last year.
With eased restrictions announced in June, he dedicated himself anew to preparing the restaurant to welcome guests with an entirely different menu and a well-rehearsed protocol for sanitation. Tables this weekend were booked, but he’s girding himself for another dropoff in customers and having to close up again.
“The reality is that closure has deep financial costs, and reopening is a massive investment. The stop-start nature of this (situation) has a deep impact on restaurant businesses and the people who work within them,” said Connaughton.
“We’re all moving from one short-term solution to the next and each just gets more difficult,” he said.
Even outdoor dining isn’t a silver bullet, according to Sondra Bernstein, owner of Girl and the Fig in Sonoma, Fig Cafe and a large catering business. Her California-French cuisine has gained a substantial following in the Bay Area over the past 23 years, and typically she would have about 240 people on staff and $10 million in annual sales, she said.
Now, she’s doing grab-and-go meals, running a food truck and trying to set up picnic tables in a corner of the Sonoma Plaza to keep her business alive.
The town has allowed restaurants to be creative, using the grassy plaza, alleys and walkways for outdoor dining. But Bernstein found part of her walkway space taken over Thursday by PG&E maintenance workers, underscoring the pitfalls of staking out a business on ground she doesn’t control.
By Bernstein’s estimation, she’s spent about $5,000 putting up screens, stanchions, spaced picnic tables and even setting up a remote kitchen that has to be assembled daily to serve diners outside.
“This is money, time and resources we just don’t have. Every day is something else and the rules keep changing,” she said, adding that the business has lost at least $800,000 in the last four months.
“Some days I’m crying my eyes out saying how did I get in this place. Other days, I’m like we got this and we’re great. But this isn’t the business I envisioned having. Serving grab-and-go sandwiches isn’t what we were about. But right now, we’re just trying to make money and keep people employed,” she said.
Some are simply holding their breath and waiting to see what happens next before reopening at all.
Samantha Ramey and her husband opened Americana in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square just weeks before shelter-in-place orders came down in March. They attempted to focus on takeout, but just couldn’t gain traction and closed the restaurant.
They’re currently working out of their original restaurant, Estero Cafe in Valley Ford. The tiny farm-to-table spot is doing well feeding pent-up city dwellers escaping to the coast for a breath of fresh air.
It’s homey interior has taken a back seat to the outdoor fast-casual experience that many customers now find more suitable if they are to eat out. Diners order at the door and sit on scattered tables outside. But the farm-to-table vision Ramey fostered at the restaurant just isn’t the same, she said, when everything is served on disposable plates and plastic cups.
“I just keep focusing on the fact that this isn’t forever, but it sure doesn’t feel like it’s going to be over quickly,” she said.
With just six indoor tables, Petaluma’s Street Social closed soon after the initial stay-home restrictions, but Marjorie and Jevon Martin are staying afloat selling fried chicken to go. Outdoor dining just wasn’t an option.
“We’ve been watching the rising cases carefully. Better to err on the side of caution rather than to risk staff and guests,” Marjorie said.
That means constantly restrategizing, finding income where they can. The couple have found some support recently as the Black Lives Matter movement has brought them guests who want to support the Black-owned business. Still, it’s not always enough.
“It feels like we’re paddling upstream everyday, but at least we still have a paddle,” she said.
Sonoma Canopy Tours’ Sonoma Treehouses are still under construction. The grand opening is set for August 3, 2020. Five treehouses, very similar to yurts, form an aerial village in redwood treetops on the Alliance Redwoods property in Occidental. (Courtesy of Sonoma Canopy Tours)
In these pandemic times, day trips and staycations are fast becoming popular ways to spend a summer holiday as people look to stay closer to home while also practicing social distancing.
A local zipline company is now taking the close-to-home vacation to new heights. Starting next month, Alliance Redwoods Sonoma Canopy Tours will invite guests to stay above the ground in five yurt-like treehouses in Occidental. The company, which has offered zip line experiences among the redwoods for a decade, had been planning the opening of their Sonoma Treehouses aerial village long before the pandemic. Now, policies are put in place to ensure guests can safely zip off the grid and into a queen bed.
The treehouse village is still in the works, click through the above gallery for more information and a sneak peek.
The popular downtown Santa Rosa eatery shuttered in November 2016 as construction on the Square lagged to the consternation of many who considered it a “go-to” for business lunches, happy hours and family gatherings.
After four years, the owners are reopening in a small bistro that formerly housed a Caribbean restaurant on Healdsburg Avenue (near the former Peter Lowell’s).
We heard lots of buzz on social media about the spot, which already has signage, and stopped by to talk with longtime employee Jorge Pedroza, who said they are hoping for a mid-August opening. Outdoor seating will be on the back patio and facing the street, with some limited indoor seating possible — depending of course on how things go over the next few months with social distancing requirements.
Expect a slightly reduced menu, but most of the old favorites. As for parking, which is in limited quantity around the cafe (and has always been a difficult issue), Pedroza sees the glass half full, saying that there are plenty of spots on streets nearby so you can walk off that big dinner or last glass of wine. Fair enough.
Blue Ridge Kitchen will soon be opening in the former Zazu space in the Barlow.
Describing the menu as “California comfort food with a Southern drawl,” General Manager Eric Zahra (Real Restaurants group, Piatti) heads up an all-star cast that includes Virginia native Jared Rogers (Guesthouse, Picco) as consulting chef and Matt D’Ambrosi (recently of Spoonbar, Harmon Guesthouse and Pizzando). The restaurant is undergoing a makeover, which includes a showpiece J&R live fire grill but maintains the open, airy vibe of the space.
Barlow founder Barney Aldridge is currently a minority partner in the project and said he brought together the team to create a friendly, seven-day-a-week, “heart of the community” destination like Marin’s iconic Buckeye Roadhouse or Napa’s Rutherford Grill.
“I want it to be one of those timeless gathering places,” Aldridge said.
Blue Ridge Kitchen is hoping to open — with a full liquor license — in the next several weeks. Though the menu is still evolving, it currently includes Southern standards like fried green tomatoes, shrimp po’ boys, fried chicken platters, collard greens, pecan pie, shrimp and grits and smoked ribs, but also veers to NorCal faves like avocado toast (with crispy ham), smoked Mt. Lassen trout salad, roasted cauliflower steak and ahi tuna tartare. If you’re craving some meaty meats, try a tomahawk steak, rigatoni sugo with braised pork cheek or hardwood smoked prime rib. A little something for everyone.
Four months into the pandemic, the word “essential” no longer seems right to describe the vital workforce holding us together. So instead, let’s call it like it really is: “so indispensable it can be a matter of life and death.”
When the world came to a standstill, these men and women braced themselves and began working twice as hard. What are often seen as thankless, back-breaking jobs – cleaning hospital rooms, fixing our plumbing, delivering packages – deserve our respect more than ever. Take a moment to look into their eyes and listen to their stories. These workers are the backbone not just of Sonoma but of America itself. Without them, we would be lost, and the toll of the outbreak would loom far larger.
Rosa Contreras in Santa Rosa, California on May 19, 2020. (Erik Castro)
When Rosa Contreras applied for a job cleaning Kaiser Permanente hospital room 19 years ago, “compassion” wasn’t listed in the job description. But it didn’t take long for her to realize the job includes equal doses of caring and sanitation.
One morning during the pandemic, a patient was having a hard time breathing, so Contreras gave her a sentimental stone with the word “Breathe” etched onto it. Later in the day, a nurse asked, “Did you give her that stone? She’s been holding it in her hand the whole day. She was crying and said you told her, ‘Don’t forget to breathe.’”
“I feel more safe in the hospital than I do outside.”
Helping others is something Contreras learned growing up in Cotija, Mexico, as one of 12 children. Her mother watched over the family while her father worked the fields as a campesino.
“My parents told us, if you see someone who needs help, don’t think twice, just help,” remembers Contreras, 56, who lives in Windsor with her husband and three children. Her husband is concerned she might contract the coronavirus. “But I told him, don’t worry. We have trained for this. I feel more safe in the hospital than I do outside.”
Sebastian Juarez in Sonoma, California on May 14, 2020. (Erik Castro)
When he was a kid, Sebastian Juarez wanted to be a NASA engineer. “This is not the job I had in mind, but those are the cards I got dealt early, so I had to sustain the family, the housing, the food, the kids.” His mechanical knowledge of how things work comes in handy as a service technician for Garton Tractor, where he fixes farm equipment of all sizes for clients at vineyards, farms, and construction sites.
“The grapes don’t know there’s a pandemic going on.”
“During this time, people are just thankful we’re still coming out and keeping them going,” says Juarez, who is in his late 50s and lives alone in Santa Rosa. His parents were farmworkers in Mexico and moved the family to the United States when he was 12. They worked the vineyards and picked grapes every harvest, and now he makes sure all the machinery keeps moving in many of the same vineyards. “The wineries are relying on us when things break down, because the grapes don’t know there’s a pandemic going on.”
Jerry Tolman at the UPS Customer Center in Santa Rosa, California, May 27, 2020. (Erik Castro)
“You wake up one day, and it’s like, ‘What happened here?’” says Jerry Tolman, who has never felt such an “eerie feeling of driving empty roads” in his 29 years of delivering packages for UPS.
For the past decade, his rural route has taken him through Dry Creek Valley, where he delivers packages to residents and picks up shipments from wineries. Since the Covid-19 outbreak, he’s worked 10-12 hours a day. One winery owner told him, “You’re right below the doctors and the nurses. If it wasn’t for you guys picking up our wine and shipping it for us, we’d be dead in the water.”
Tolman grew up in Boonville and played basketball at SRJC and Sonoma State. His
goal was to coach junior high sports, but, he says, after getting a job with UPS right out of college, “I liked the steady paycheck and I liked that you’re your own boss. You’re out there by yourself all day long.” At 55, one year away from retirement, Tolman is more grateful than ever for the bond he’s established with customers over the years. “We’re getting a lot of love out there — a lot of love and a lot of support.”
Veronica Santiago Flores in Sonoma, California on May 15, 2020. (Erik Castro)
Starting her vineyard job at 5:30 a.m. six days a week, Veronica Santiago Flores takes pride in nurturing vines. But it’s not what she envisions for her 3-year-old son Caleb, who stays with a babysitter while she works. “I do not want him to work in the vineyard under the hot sun. I want him to go to school and maybe become a doctor or a dentist.
When Covid-19 hit in March, “I thanked God I still had a job and could support my son,” she says. Flores and her boyfriend, Jose Luis, work for Palo Alto Vineyard Management. In the fields, they maintain distances of six feet or more and wear masks and gloves.
“I thanked God I still had a job and could support my son.”
As a child growing up in Acapulco, she dreamed of one day becoming a nurse, “but it was too expensive to go to school for that.” After her family was threatened by a drug cartel and forced to relocate, she escaped to the United States in 2017. “I had hoped to go to school this year to learn English and find another job,” she says. “But now, I don’t know when that will happen.”
Alex Johnson in Santa Rosa, California. May 26, 2020. (Erik Castro)
“Honestly, I was scared,” says plumber Alex Johnson, remembering when businesses started shutting down in mid-March. “I’ve got two little kids and a wife, and the last thing I want to do is somehow catch this thing and bring it home to my family.”
But plumbing involves going into strangers’ homes, often several in a day, and that’s what he’s continued to do. He and his wife have had conversations about the number of infections in the area. “What’s the limit where I decide that’s enough, and I stay home?” he asks. In addition to wearing a mask and gloves, Johnson undresses in the garage when he comes home from work, putting his clothes in a designated hamper and showering before he touches anyone.
“What’s the limit where I decide that’s enough, and I stay home?”
Johnson specializes in hydronic radiant heating systems, most recently with Ongaro & Sons. “It’s one of those things where this isn’t what I wanted to do, but I’m really good at it. And, to me, this is art. It’s a passion, just like music,” says Johnson, 42, who also plays bass in local band Dr!ven, which has opened for original Beatles drummer Pete Best. “Even though it can look like a monster made out of all these pipes — it’s art.”
Cameron Duhaime, 30, at Bud’s Custom Meats in Penngrove, California on May 18, 2020. (Erik Castro)
As a butcher for Bud’s Custom Meats, Cameron Duhaime travels to farms around the Bay Area slaughtering cows, sheep, pigs, and goats. These days, he’s sharpening his knives more than ever before. “We are just slammed,” says Duhaime, 30, who lives in Cotati and also cuts meat at Bud’s Penngrove store. “It’s been super-busy in the shop, like three times the retail volume that we’re used to.” He attributes the spike in demand to more people cooking at home, with some learning to cook new cuts like elk chops or rack of lamb. “It seems like everybody’s a professional home chef now.” And during times like this, he says, there’s “a sense of security in having a quarter of beef in the freezer.”
Raised in Colorado, Duhaime farmed vegetables and later learned butchery on a farm in upstate New York. Since moving to Sonoma County two years ago, he has started working six to seven days a week, spending about half the time on the road and the other half in the shop. “I just feel grateful and really lucky that it just so happens the work I do is essential.”
“There’s a sense of security in having a quarter of beef in the freezer.”
Maria Lemons at Safeway in Santa Rosa, California, May 29, 2020. (Erik Castro)
“I miss seeing people’s faces,” says Safeway cashier Maria Lemons. “With a mask on, people can’t really see that I’m smiling, and I can’t see their expression. It’s hard to read people now.” A single mother raising three teenagers, Lemons has worked the last 15 years as a cashier, stocker, and customer service rep at the Safeway on West College Avenue in Santa Rosa. The beginning of the pandemic “was a bit scary,” she says. “But I continued working because that’s how I feed my family, and I was thankful I didn’t lose my job.”
Months later, she feels like she’s “coping better,” able to deal with a wide range of customers, some who want everything wiped down and others who don’t seem to understand physical distancing. Growing up “more of a tomboy kinda girl” in Nicaragua, Lemons, 40, played baseball, basketball, and volleyball before migrating to the United States when she was 19. She looks forward to a day when she doesn’t have to cover her smile anymore. “Once you get off work, you just want to get rid of that mask and just breathe fresh air.”
David Stafford at the Material Recovery Facility in Santa Rosa, California on May 20, 2020. (Erik Castro)
Every morning, David Stafford starts his shift at 3:30 a.m. in Railroad Square, maneuvering a massive front-loading garbage truck through the streets long before most of us are awake.
“The other day, there was this young woman wearing no shoes, riding her bicycle back and forth, following me,” says Stafford, 45, who grew up in Hayward and lives with his wife and parents in Santa Rosa. “Finally, she rides her bicycle straight towards me and stops and says, ‘I don’t know exactly what I’m trying to say, but I just wanted to say, ‘Thank you for what you do,’ and she rides off.”
“It makes you realize maybe this job is important.”
With everything he’s seen during his 21 years on the job — people asleep in alleys and jumping out of dumpsters — Stafford could only shake his head. “I don’t really like the spotlight,” he says. “But it’s kinda nice to hear someone say, ‘Thank you’ in times like this. It makes you realize maybe this job is important.”
Maraia Maffy at Brookdale Paulin Creek senior assisted living center in Santa Rosa, California on June 6, 2020. (Erik Castro)
“I have never shaved a beard in my life,” says caregiver Maraia Ledua Maffy. “But since this pandemic started, I’ve learned to shave and to cut a man’s hair, too.” For the past year, Maffy has been caring for a Santa Rosa couple in their 80s. Since the outbreak, her clients haven’t left their quarters at the Brookdale Paulin Creek assisted living facility.
“They are away from their family, and I am away from my family — both my kids at home and my family in Fiji — and so our bond has only grown stronger over the past few months,” says Maffy, 46. Working for North Bay Home Care, she is part of a vital local community of Fijian caregivers. “In Fiji, I think we learn to care for people at an early age because we live with our grandparents and often cousins and other relatives.”
“They are away from their family, and I am away from my family.”
Since the outbreak, her shifts have gone from 8 to 12 hours. It’s taken a toll at home, where her 21-year-old son watches her two younger boys, 7 and 10, while her husband serves a prison sentence. “This time has taught me to be grateful for every little thing we have. Sometimes we just have to stand still and be at peace and just love each other more and take care of each other.”
We’ve been a little jealous of the Wicked Slush cocktails we’ve been hearing about in Petaluma, Healdsburg and Sonoma, but now they’re coming to Epicenter in Santa Rosa.
The old Starbucks is gone and the activity center at Coffey and Piner has brought in Wicked Slush and Bella Rosa Coffee to keep things local, calling it Piner and Coffey to Go, natch. In case you were wondering, Epicenter is open for business, and you can bowl, do trivia on the patio, jump and game (socially distant) if you’re in need of some family fun.
There’s nothing like a warm pretzel with cheese — except maybe a warm cheese pretzel with cheese.
Professional baker Clare Hulme of Wooden Petal is making small-batch sea salt, cheese and “everything” pretzels from her commercial kitchen with cheese dip and mustard for pickup or delivery throughout much of the county.
Pretzels from Wooden Petal in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
These soft little nuggets are closer to a roll than a tooth-breaking hard pretzel, with a yeasty, homemade flavor that’s hard to resist. Plus, no bitter baking soda (blech)! They’re just $25 for a fat box of 15 with two dips (we’d have paid extra for more cheese, cause we ate it all by pretzel three).
Hot or cold, our whole family gave these two cheese-covered thumbs up. On Wednesday and Thursday, Hulme is also doing jumbo cinnamon pretzels with icing. Perfect for a grad gift or the Father’s Day present you forgot.
Eating has become very primal for me lately, but that doesn’t mean I’m starting some ridiculous caveman-inspired diet. Instead, I’m following my deepest intuition about what I’m craving, what I’m desperately yearning for and dreaming about that drives me to venture forth into the world and snatch a takeout bag to bring home to my lair.
Most recently that was an egg salad sandwich I crammed into my face in a parking lot. I’d dreamed about it for a week. It lived up to the hype.
In uncertain times, I think we’ve all become a little more focused on things that feed our souls rather than just our bellies. To that end, you’d be amazed what a little outdoor patio time (socially distanced, of course), a glass or wine, a beautiful banh mi or a perfect ceviche can do to make life in quarantine a whole lot less dismal.
This week, I’m highlighting three great spots, from affordable to luxe, that I think will bring a smile to your face, even if it’s hidden behind a mask.
La Plaza
It’s a rare Mexican restaurant that really impresses me, but this little mom-and-pop spot on Santa Rosa Avenue is worth the trip. Though I’ve driven by this unassuming drive-through thousands of times, it was a post on the lively Facebook page “Save Sonoma Restaurants” that really piqued my interest as diners argued over the best Sonoma County Mexican food. I’m officially tapping La Plaza as a top contender. Even our giant takeout order (which apparently briefly closed the restaurant) was perfectly packed and incredibly flavorful and impressive.
My first indication that the food might be good? Ceviche Vallarta with brunoise crujiente (crunchy, small-diced vegetables). Someone has some knife skills, clearly, but it was the harmonious citrus marinade strong enough to “cook” the raw shrimp and whitefish without blistering the palate. It was so good I actually drank the remaining marinade the next morning.
Also great: grilled panella cheese with chili-lime salt (we missed the part about the chipotle salsa and flame-grilled tortillas to go with it, but it was great just plain).
Twice-cooked potatoes with barbecue sauce, crema and chipotle aioli were a perfect match to St. Louis spare ribs with tomato onion jalapeno sauce, and chicken in chipotle cream with mushrooms was a decadent foil to hotter dishes. Our only complaint was that the chicken seemed a bit overcooked. There are plenty of taqueria favorites as well, including fish tacos, burritos, chile relleno and quesadillas along with a fun dessert of cinnamon tortilla chips with cajeta caramel and chocolate drizzle. Our massive order (which included several more entrees) was just over $100.
Menu online at laplazasantarosa.com, call to order, 707-578-1551. Pickup at the drive-through, limited inside dining available. 2930 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa
April Pantry
The grilled cheese sandwich with cherry tomato salad never made it past the Highway 101 onramp. With crunchy, griddled sourdough bread and Gouda and Cowgirl Creamery Wagon Wheel cheeses, it seemed a sin to let it linger in a steamy to-go box. Good call for me. Bad call for my car upholstery. Some sacrifices must me made.
Newly-established at the former Ulia’s Deli in a Petaluma office park, the kitchen has some serious talent making crave-worthy sandwiches and salads. Another of our favorites was the Billionaire’s BLT, with crunchy sweet bacon, juicy heirloom tomatoes (finally in season) and smoked tomato jam.
We fought over the barbecue pork banh mi on a soft French roll, but it was the Aloha Plate, with fresh mac salad, coconut rice and fried chicken we really went crazy about. As Ohana regulars, we appreciated April Pantry’s fresh approach, and that rice — oh, that coconut rice. Easy online ordering, breakfast specials and giant cookies the size of your head, plus catering services.
Patio dining or takeout. 1000 Clegg St., Petaluma, 707-658-1326, aprilpantry.com
Paris on the Terrace, Jordan Winery
Winding oaks shade the patio of this carefully groomed property overlooking idyllic Alexander Valley hillsides. Inspired by historic ivy-covered French estates, it’s perfect for a Parisian-themed outdoor bistro featuring Chef Todd Knoll’s straight-from-the-garden dishes that are almost too heartbreakingly beautiful to eat.
Each course is paired with Jordan wines, from their AR Lenoble champagne to a well-balanced 2018 chardonnay and lip-smacking cabernet sauvignons. What took our breath away were the perfectly of-the-season dishes with estate vegetables, a charcuterie plate with local Journeyman meats and duck confit with stone fruit and quinoa.
What made it so special, however, was the luxuriousness of an afternoon spent with an old friend as a cool summer breeze and plenty of catch-up chatter wound around our wine glasses. It almost felt like old times. Almost.
$110 per person, reservations required, limit of 12 people per seating. 11 a.m. and 2 p.m., Thursday through Monday, until Sept. 7. Details at jordanwinery.com/visit