3 Sonoma County Restaurants to Try Right Now

July 2020

By Heather Irwin

Eating has become very primal for me lately, but that doesn’t mean I’m starting some ridiculous caveman-inspired diet. Instead, I’m following my deepest intuition about what I’m craving, what I’m desperately yearning for and dreaming about that drives me to venture forth into the world and snatch a takeout bag to bring home to my lair.

Most recently that was an egg salad sandwich I crammed into my face in a parking lot. I’d dreamed about it for a week. It lived up to the hype.

In uncertain times, I think we’ve all become a little more focused on things that feed our souls rather than just our bellies. To that end, you’d be amazed what a little outdoor patio time (socially distanced, of course), a glass or wine, a beautiful banh mi or a perfect ceviche can do to make life in quarantine a whole lot less dismal.

This week, I’m highlighting three great spots, from affordable to luxe, that I think will bring a smile to your face, even if it’s hidden behind a mask.

La Plaza

It’s a rare Mexican restaurant that really impresses me, but this little mom-and-pop spot on Santa Rosa Avenue is worth the trip. Though I’ve driven by this unassuming drive-through thousands of times, it was a post on the lively Facebook page “Save Sonoma Restaurants” that really piqued my interest as diners argued over the best Sonoma County Mexican food. I’m officially tapping La Plaza as a top contender. Even our giant takeout order (which apparently briefly closed the restaurant) was perfectly packed and incredibly flavorful and impressive.

My first indication that the food might be good? Ceviche Vallarta with brunoise crujiente (crunchy, small-diced vegetables). Someone has some knife skills, clearly, but it was the harmonious citrus marinade strong enough to “cook” the raw shrimp and whitefish without blistering the palate. It was so good I actually drank the remaining marinade the next morning.

Also great: grilled panella cheese with chili-lime salt (we missed the part about the chipotle salsa and flame-grilled tortillas to go with it, but it was great just plain).

Twice-cooked potatoes with barbecue sauce, crema and chipotle aioli were a perfect match to St. Louis spare ribs with tomato onion jalapeno sauce, and chicken in chipotle cream with mushrooms was a decadent foil to hotter dishes. Our only complaint was that the chicken seemed a bit overcooked. There are plenty of taqueria favorites as well, including fish tacos, burritos, chile relleno and quesadillas along with a fun dessert of cinnamon tortilla chips with cajeta caramel and chocolate drizzle. Our massive order (which included several more entrees) was just over $100.

Menu online at laplazasantarosa.com, call to order, 707-578-1551. Pickup at the drive-through, limited inside dining available. 2930 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa

April Pantry

The grilled cheese sandwich with cherry tomato salad never made it past the Highway 101 onramp. With crunchy, griddled sourdough bread and Gouda and Cowgirl Creamery Wagon Wheel cheeses, it seemed a sin to let it linger in a steamy to-go box. Good call for me. Bad call for my car upholstery. Some sacrifices must me made.

Newly-established at the former Ulia’s Deli in a Petaluma office park, the kitchen has some serious talent making crave-worthy sandwiches and salads. Another of our favorites was the Billionaire’s BLT, with crunchy sweet bacon, juicy heirloom tomatoes (finally in season) and smoked tomato jam.

We fought over the barbecue pork banh mi on a soft French roll, but it was the Aloha Plate, with fresh mac salad, coconut rice and fried chicken we really went crazy about. As Ohana regulars, we appreciated April Pantry’s fresh approach, and that rice — oh, that coconut rice. Easy online ordering, breakfast specials and giant cookies the size of your head, plus catering services.

Patio dining or takeout. 1000 Clegg St., Petaluma, 707-658-1326, aprilpantry.com

Paris on the Terrace, Jordan Winery

Winding oaks shade the patio of this carefully groomed property overlooking idyllic Alexander Valley hillsides. Inspired by historic ivy-covered French estates, it’s perfect for a Parisian-themed outdoor bistro featuring Chef Todd Knoll’s straight-from-the-garden dishes that are almost too heartbreakingly beautiful to eat.

Each course is paired with Jordan wines, from their AR Lenoble champagne to a well-balanced 2018 chardonnay and lip-smacking cabernet sauvignons. What took our breath away were the perfectly of-the-season dishes with estate vegetables, a charcuterie plate with local Journeyman meats and duck confit with stone fruit and quinoa.

What made it so special, however, was the luxuriousness of an afternoon spent with an old friend as a cool summer breeze and plenty of catch-up chatter wound around our wine glasses. It almost felt like old times. Almost.

$110 per person, reservations required, limit of 12 people per seating. 11 a.m. and 2 p.m., Thursday through Monday, until Sept. 7. Details at jordanwinery.com/visit

Craving Sweets? 5 Local Chefs Share Their Summertime Dessert Recipes

July 2020

By Dana Rebmann

The best wine tastes better when it’s in a glass next to great food. If that dish happens to be dessert, even better. With summer nights in our sights, indulging in a dessert and wine pairing does more than satisfy a sweet tooth, it encourages us to linger at the table a little longer. We asked some of our favorite local chefs to share a prized recipe and tell us what they choose to sip alongside. Enjoy, and you’re welcome!

Delicious Wine Country Desserts

Sondra Bernstein is celebrating the 20th anniversary of her Sonoma restaurant The Girl & the Fig this summer. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat) — Chef Sondra Bernstein of the girl & the fig in Sonoma. (Christopher Chung)

Chef Sondra Bernstein

“As summer produce starts to show up at the farmers market, it is the perfect time to make a cobbler,” said chef Sondra Bernstein of the girl & the fig in Sonoma.

She suggests two different wines for her Apricot & Blackberry Cobbler. Choose between Anaba Wines, 2018 Late Harvest Sonoma Valley Viognier, and the Loxton 2015 Sonoma Valley Syrah Port.

Apricot & Blackberry Cobbler

Makes 6 to 8 individual cobblers or 1 large 8×8-inch cobbler

For the dough:

1 cup all-purpose flour

3⁄4 cup sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon ground allspice

1 teaspoon salt

1 large egg

5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

For the filling:

12 fresh apricots

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons cornstarch

4 pints blackberries

1⁄4 cup lightly packed brown sugar

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces

To prepare the dough:

In a mixer on slow speed, combine the flour, sugar, cinnamon, baking powder, allspice, and salt. Add the egg to the dry ingredients. Add the melted butter and mix. Form the dough into a ball, wrap it in plastic and chill the dough for at least two hours and up to overnight.

Divide the chilled dough into 6 portions. Roll out the dough between pieces of wax paper so the dough is at least 1⁄2-inch larger than the size of the ramekin on all sides if making individual cobblers. Preheat the oven to 375°F.

To prepare the filling:

Quarter the apricots and coat them with lemon juice. In a separate bowl, dissolve the cornstarch in 2 tablespoons of water. Add the blackberries, apricots, and brown sugar to the bowl with the apricots and mix gently. Place an equal amount of the filling into each baking dish. Add 1⁄2 tablespoon of butter over each portion. Cover with a layer of solid dough or create a lattice topping by trimming the dough into 14 to 16 1⁄2-inch strips using a knife or a pizza wheel. Weave the dough strips over the filling by going over and under to create a lattice. Let the strips come a bit over the edge of the baking dish as the dough will slightly shrink as it bakes. Bake the cobbler for 40 to 50 minutes until the crust is golden brown. Let cool.

To serve:

Serve each portion with a scoop of ice cream or gelato.

Chef/partner Liza Hinman of The Spinster Sisters. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat) — Chef Liza Hinman of The Spinster Sisters. (Christopher Chung)

Chef Liza Hinman

“This recipe can be used for any combination of summer fruit and berries. I typically like to have two fruit together – often one stone fruit and one berry (2:1 ratio), which go wonderfully together,” said chef Liza Hinman of The Spinster Sisters in Santa Rosa.

Three variations she recommends include: apricot and cherry, peach and blackberry, and plum (or pluot) and raspberry. Hinman’s go-to wine to pair with this dessert is Amista’s Sparkling Grenache.

Summertime Fruit Crisp

Crisp topping:

8 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

½ cup all-purpose Flour

2/3 cup brown sugar

½ teaspoon cinnamon

½ teaspoon kosher salt

½ cup rolled oats

½ teaspoon vanilla

¼ cup roughly chopped almonds

Crisp topping procedure:

Add dry ingredients and almonds into a bowl and whisk lightly.

Add the melted butter and vanilla to the dry ingredients and, using your fingers, lightly incorporate until moist clumps appear (loose cookie dough consistency). Hold in the refrigerator while you prepare the fruit filling. Topping can also be made ahead and frozen in a plastic bag for up to 3 months.

Fruit filling:

4 cups of stone fruit, cut into wedges or chunks

2 cups of cleaned berries

½ cup granulated sugar

2 tablespoons cornstarch (may need additional if fruit is quite juicy)

1 tablespoons lemon juice

Fruit filling procedure:

Whisk the sugar and cornstarch together in a large bowl to remove any lumps. Add the stone fruit to the bowl with the lemon juice and toss lightly to coat.

To finish the crisp:

Pre-heat to 350°, and butter a 9×9 or 11×7 baking dish.

Spread the stone fruit over the bottom of the pan, then sprinkle the berries over and lightly mix together. Scatter the crisp topping over in clumps. Place into the oven for 30-40 minutes, until the edges are bubbling, and the topping is golden brown. Place on a wire rack and allow to cool for at least 15 minutes before serving.

Serve with whipped cream or crème fraiche, or a rich vanilla ice cream.

Chef Charlie Palmer

Chef Charlie Palmer shared his recipe for Pear Tarte Tatin, which appears in his American Fare cookbook. He typically pairs it with a nice Riesling or a Sonoma Coast Gewürztraminer. Two of his favorites include: Gundlach Bundschu, 2018 Estate Gewürztraminer, Sonoma Coast, and Scribe 2017 Riesling Arrowhead Slope, Sonoma County.

Pear Tarte Tatin

Makes one 9-inch tart

3⁄4 cup tightly packed light brown sugar

1⁄2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

5 large firm pears, peeled, cored, and cut into quarters

1 piece frozen puff pastry (see Note), thawed

Whipped cream, crème fraîche, frozen vanilla yogurt, or caramel ice cream, for serving, optional

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Combine the sugar and 1⁄4 cup cold water in an 8-inch nonstick, ovenproof frying pan over low heat. Cook, stirring constantly, for about 3 minutes or until the sugar has dissolved. Raise the heat to medium and bring to a boil. Allow to cook at a gentle boil, without stirring, for about 6 minutes or until a golden syrup has formed. Stir in the butter and cook, stirring, until well blended.

Remove the pan from the heat and carefully arrange the pear quarters, cut sides facing up, in a slightly overlapping circle in the caramel, and place 2 or 3 halves in the middle to fill any open space.

Lightly flour a clean, flat work surface. Place the pastry onto the floured surface and, using a rolling pin, roll the pastry out to a shape large enough to cut out a circle about 9 inches in diameter. Using a paring knife, cut out the circle and place over the pears. Fold the excess edge under to enclose the fruit. Using a paring knife, cut at least 4 slits in the center of the pastry to allow steam to escape. Bake the tarte for about 35 minutes or until the pastry has puffed and is golden brown.

Let cool on a wire rack to set for about 5 minutes. Using a small, sharp knife, loosen the edges from the pan and then place the serving plate over the pan and carefully invert the tart onto it. Remove the pan.

Serve warm, with a topping of choice if you like.

Note: Both Trader Joe’s and Dufour make excellent frozen puff pastry. The first is, obviously, available at Trader Joe’s markets; Dufour is available at many supermarkets and specialty food stores as well as online.

Chef Duskie Estes and John Stewart with their catering chef, Chris, on their Black Pig food truck in the VIP area at BottleRock 2019. Heather Irwin/PD — Chef Duskie Estes and John Stewart on their Black Pig food truck in the VIP area at BottleRock 2019. (Heather Irwin)

Chef Duskie Estes & Chef John Stewart

The love for summer fruit continues to shine in this recipe for Cherry + Rhubarb Crostata with Rose Geranium Gelato from chefs Duskie Estes and John Stewart.

“You can also garnish with some almond whipped cream, if the ice cream making is too much work,” said chef Duskie Estes of Farm to Pantry. “But nowadays we have more time at home.”

For the wine pairing, Estes recommends Gratitude Late Harvest Viognier from Davis Family Vineyards or bubbles from Iron Horse Vineyards. “I love the rainbow cuvée!” said Estes.

Cherry + Rhubarb Crostata with Rose Geranium Gelato
Makes 4 crostatas

For the crostata dough:
8 oz cold unsalted butter
2 1/4 cups flour
a pinch of kosher salt
3 – 4 tablespoons ice water

For the crostata filling:
1# cherries, pitted and 1/2’d
1# rhubarb, diced
1 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon almond extract
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 egg, beaten
demerara sugar to sprinkle

To make the crostata dough, cut the butter into small chunks and place in a food processor with the flour and salt. Pulse until the mixture resembles cornmeal. With the processor running, gradually add the water, using only enough water to bring the dough together. Wrap and refrigerate at least one hour.

Preheat the oven to 375°. Roll out the dough on lightly floured surface to 4 circles, 7 inches in diameter each, and about 1/8 inch thick. In a bowl, toss the rhubarb & cherries with the sugar, cornstarch and almond extract. Mound the fruit in the center of the dough. Gently fold the dough up toward the center of the rhubarb, creating an edge about 1 1/2 inches wide, pleating dough evenly as you fold around each circle. Brush the edges with the egg and sprinkle with sugar. Bake until golden brown, about 20 to 25 minutes.

For the gelato:
3 cups milk
3 cups heavy cream
2 cups sugar
A sprig of rose geranium or 1 cup picked leaves packed

In a pot on medium-high heat bring ingredients up to a simmer. Cool in an ice bath and let steep 1 hour. Strain off the leaves and turn in ice cream maker according to its instructions. Scoop and serve on top of warmed crostata.

Reopenings, Closures and Quick Reversals for Sonoma County Retail Stores

June 2020

By Karen Kizer

After months of coronavirus-prompted closures, retail businesses in Sonoma County are welcoming customers back into their stores but many continue to face economic hardship and uncertainty — for some, the situation is so volatile that circumstances can change overnight, sometimes for the better, sometimes for the worse.

Made Local Marketplace in Santa Rosa, a prime retail shop for artisan products, announced its closure on June 19. The announcement was met with a flood of devastated responses from customers and makers alike —”some were in tears,” said store co-owner and tireless shop-local champion Kelley Rajala. But within five days, things had changed: at the 11th hour, realtor Willow Peterson made the decision to take over the business, allowing it to remain open.

Rajala, who is planning a move to Minnesota to manage her grandfather’s sustainable tree farm, will work with co-owner Pam Dale to transition the downtown business to new ownership. Rajala hopes shoppers will make an effort to continue supporting Made Local Marketplace, which in turn supports local artisans and helps keep tax revenue local.

Kelley Rajala, owner of Made Local Marketplace in Santa Rosa. (James Dunn)

Further down on Fourth Street, the doors are open at stationary, house-ware and art store Corrick’s, now in its 105th year of business. The original owner’s great grandson, Keven Brown, and his wife, Jeri, helm the store. Virtual shopping and phone orders kept the Browns busy during the shutdown along with local deliveries, which, according to Keven, “felt like old times,” when the company had four delivery trucks.

Keven Brown has observed a return to community-mindedness in these past few months — as people spend more time at home and settle into a slower pace of life, they want to talk, he said. As for the most popular thing to buy right now: The “change the date” wedding announcements that Corrick’s personalizes and sends out is in high demand.

At the Barlow in Sebastopol, the storefronts of Scout West County and Elsie Green still bear each business’s signage but the showrooms have been emptied of all inventory. Covid-19 is the latest in a series of sales setbacks for Barlow businesses with the 2017 wildfires, major flooding in February 2019, which damaged much of the industrial-chic shopping site, and then preemptive power outages and the Kincade fire later that year.

Oliver and Grace Estrada, owners of Scout West County, with their dog, Scout. (Michelle Pattee Photography)

While both businesses have closed their Sebastopol store fronts, customers can still shop Scout West County’s curated line of womenswear, menswear, accessories and home goods in Healdsburg (418 Healdsburg Ave.) and online (scoutwestcounty.com) and Elsie Green’s vintage French home goods in Concord (2954 Treat Blvd Suite C) and online (elsiegreen.com).

Kerry Mitchell, owner of Native Riders roadside shop on Gravenstein Highway in Sebastopol, recalls when his family’s business in Laguna Beach had to close in the 1970s. The property on which the family operated their Native American clothing and arts store was owned by the Mardian brothers, associates of then president Richard Nixon (Robert Mardian served in the Nixon administration and was embroiled in the Watergate scandal as one of the “Watergate Seven.”) The government seized the property following arrests in the Watergate scandal and it was later converted into a parking lot, “around the time that Joni Mitchell was singing about (paving “paradise” into) parking lots,” said Kerry Mitchell.

The owner of Native Riders now fears losing his business again. “History seems to be repeating itself,” he said. His store, which sells handmade leather, feather and beaded jackets, accessories and more, reopened a few weeks ago and has since seen a return of customers. Many of the first to return to the store were Native American, said Mitchell, and added, “we take care of each other.”

Around the Sonoma Plaza, most stores are now open — some with reduced hours. Signs about safety abound: “Welcome to Sonoma. Wear a mask.”

After weathering the shutdown by pivoting to virtual shopping appointments and online sales, proprietors are eager to see customers again. Erica Heald, owner of Perlé on West Napa Street, had planned to open an accessory boutique, Myriad, on April 1, just two weeks after the shelter-in-place order was issued. While she is excited to recently have been able to open her new store, Heald mentions that operating any retail business now also comes with safety concerns: for customers, staff, and yourself. Sanitizing hands, in addition to wearing a mask, is required upon entrance to her Sonoma store.

Aware of the recent surge in Covid-19 cases, Heald and other store proprietors in Sonoma County are worried about another shutdown. To cope with the uncertainty, Heald focuses on good moments in her hometown store, a place which customers can escape to or just “come to vent.” She wishes she could hug people but, for now, it’s “air hugs” all around.

Sonoma County Hotels Are Reopening, Here’s What to Expect

June 2020

By Dana Rebmann

After months of sheltering in place, many of us are craving a change of scenery. With relaxed Covid-19 restrictions and the gradual reopening of Sonoma County, area hotels are now beginning to welcome leisure travelers back again while also working hard to ensure a safe stay and an enjoyable experience for visitors. Locals looking for a close-to-home getaway have a list of options. But it’s never been more important to do your homework first: regulations and safety protocols vary between properties. Knowing what to expect will go a long way toward making any staycation more comfortable and relaxing. Here are a few things to keep in mind.

How check-in and check-out has changed

To reduce physical interaction, check-in and check-out procedures have been streamlined at most properties — many details can now be handled online ahead of arrival.

Four Sisters Inns, which operates Healdsburg Inn on the Plaza, Kenwood Inn & Spa, Inn at Sonoma, and Gaige House + Ryokan in Glen Ellen, is taking things a step further: in addition to an “express pre-arrival” check-in and texting service, guests also receive a phone call three days prior to arrival to discuss property changes and process payment, eliminating any credit card back and forth at arrival.

At AutoCamp Russian River, General Manager Mark Belhumeur says the property has “mastered a contactless check-in where guests can bypass the front desk entirely.” Entry to the property’s iconic Airstreams require a door code as opposed to a key. A welcome email sent before arrival contains everything guests need for access.

One of the first changes many guests may notice when arriving at lodgings throughout Sonoma County is the lack of valet service. Some properties, including Vintners Resort in Santa Rosa and MacArthur Place in Sonoma (both reopening on July 1), have suspended the service, making space available for guests to self-park. At Hotel Healdsburg, along with self-parking, valet service is available upon request.

The Astro in Santa Rosa is limiting their compact lobby to two guests at a time; guests waiting to check-in can hang out in the courtyard. When it’s time to check-out travelers can skip the lobby altogether and simply leave their key in their room.

Astro Motel in Santa Rosa — The Astro courtyard.

How Housekeeping Has Changed

While cleanliness has always been a top priority at hotels throughout Sonoma County, it’s gained added significance due to Covid-19. Countless new standards and protocols have been put into place, utilizing everything from UV light to high-tech disinfectants to keep surfaces clean, and cleaning staff is now suited in personal protective equipment (PPE).

“Our current procedures include blocking and booking rooms so that a room may remain vacant for a minimum of 24 hours to allow a full cleaning and disinfecting process,” said Rosa Salgado, Housekeeping Manager at Hotel Healdsburg. “This works to keep both our guests and our employees safe.”

Time also plays a role in the cleaning procedures put in place at Santa Rosa’s Vintners Resort. “All rooms are cleaned and rested for at least 24 hours prior to the next check in,” said General Manager, Percy Brandon. Turndown service at Vintners Resort has also been temporarily discontinued.

At MacArthur Place, turndown service will be provided automatically in suites, but only by request in guest rooms. MacArthur Place has also appointed a full-time Cleanliness Steward dedicated to constantly sanitizing surfaces throughout the property such as door handles, tables, and countertops.

In many instances, properties have opted to remove non-essential, high-touch items such as throw pillows, magazines, and minibar provisions from rooms.

What Amenities Are Available?

This is where being organized and doing your research will help ensure you book the getaway that’s right for your staycation needs. Don’t make any assumptions about available services. As a result of the pandemic, amenity offerings have changed.

The pool at Hotel Healdsburg. (Hotel Healdsburg) — Pool at Hotel Healdsburg.

At Hotel Healdsburg, the pool and gym are open by appointment only to maintain social distancing and allowing for proper cleaning and disinfecting.

The fitness center at MacArthur Place is closed, but assorted equipment such as weights, mats, and kettlebells have been moved outside for workouts. The pool is open with pairs of sanitized lounge chairs physically distanced for safety. The spa at Vintners Resort remains closed, but the outdoor pool is open for hotel guests, with distancing taken into account in regards to seating.

Nightly wine and cheese buffets, a much-loved part of the experience for returning guests at Four Sisters Inns, have been replaced with picnic boxes packed with wine, a cheese plate for two and freshly baked cookies. Guests can enjoy them in their room, or bring them on their excursions.

Nightly wine and cheese spreads at Four Sisters Inns have been replaced with picnic boxes. (Photo Courtesy Four Sisters Inns)

Buffet breakfast offerings at Four Sisters Inns have been replaced with seated meals, available with advance reservation. Breakfast can also be delivered directly to a guestroom doorstep, without staff entering the room.

AutoCamp Russian River has temporarily discontinued their continental breakfast, but plans to bring it back when county regulations allow.

The lounge at The Astro is temporarily closed, but complimentary Flying Goat coffee is available from 7 a.m. to 10 a.m. every morning in the lobby.

Have you stayed in a Sonoma County hotel during the pandemic? Let us know about your experience in the comments below.

Best Things to Do in Sonoma County, Summer 2020

June 2020

By Grace Yarrow

Oakland residents Jude Bermeo, left, and Christine Olivo float down the Russian River, Tuesday, June 4, 2019 in Monte Rio. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat) 2019

No doubt, this will be an unusual summer — but that’s no excuse to stay inside watching TV for the next few months. Thankfully, spending time outdoors lowers the risk of coronavirus spread (compared to indoor activities) so now is the ideal time to embrace nature and the fresh air. Scroll through the gallery above to see our favorite (pandemic-friendly) summer activities.

Did we miss one of your favorite activities? Let us know in the comments!

5 Pandemic-Friendly Date Ideas in Sonoma County

June 2020

By Cash Martinez

Need a little pick-me-up in your love life? Feeling bored with the usual Friday night takeout? We’ve got you covered — from movie night to at-home fine dining, these five pandemic-friendly date ideas are just too much fun to pass up. Click through the gallery to find inspiration for your next rendezvous.

Not quarantining with your significant other? No worries — these dates are just as romantic over FaceTime or Zoom.

10 Top Winery Patios in Sonoma County That Are Now Open

June 2020

By Linda Murphy

Click through the above gallery for photos.

There is something so refreshing, calming and authentic about tasting wine outdoors as opposed to indoors. Especially now.

June in Sonoma County is a feast for the eyes with its sheer beauty of green leafy grapevines, the colorful palette of wildflowers, towering redwoods, majestic oaks, undulating hillsides and the meandering Russian River. It also offers soothing sounds for the senses: bees buzzing in winery gardens, chirping birds guarding their nests.

When Sonoma County tasting rooms were first allowed to reopen during the pandemic — outside only — on May 23, some wineries quickly adapted and some were already prepared with expansive patios, seemingly designed for coronavirus times. (Indoor which istasting rooms were recently allowed to reopen, too.)

The large paved patio at Kunde Family Winery in Kenwood, for example, allows for safe physical distancing between tables. The soft babbling of the water fountain and surrounding cloak of vineyards make the space feel a world away from the traffic on Highway 12. Canvas umbrellas block the sun on bright mornings and warm afternoons.

Here are 10 Sonoma County wineries that, like Kunde Winery, offer an opportunity to spend time outdoors while sipping excellent wines and taking in the summer landscape.

Copain Wines

Fill your eyes with panoramic Russian River Valley views and your glass with cool-climate chardonnay, pinot noir, syrah and rosé at this south-of-Healdsburg winery. Perched on a hillside above the river itself, Copain has a spacious, casual patio where you can enjoy two distinctive tastings. The Classic Copain Experience ($30) includes four wines representing the regions and grape varieties that comprise the winery’s Single Vineyard portfolio. The Reserve Copain Experience ($50) is a flight of five limited-release wines from past vintages, giving guests the opportunity to see how wines evolve in the bottle. For an additional $15 per person, guests receive a selection of artisan cheeses, charcuterie, fruits and crostini. 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Thursday-Monday, with seatings on the half-hour.

7800 Eastside Road, Healdsburg, 707-836-8822, copainwines.com

Chalk Hill Estate

William Foley’s Sonoma winery empire shines most brightly for visitors at this 1,300-acre property in the Chalk Hill AVA, adjacent to Alexander Valley. Foley’s daughter, Courtney Foley, is the winemaker, producing high-end chardonnays, sauvignon blancs and Bordeaux red varietals from 300 vineyard acres. The patio is the place to enjoy tasting flights of four wines ($30) as well as various pairings, including Chalk Hill Estate Chardonnay with fried chicken and caviar ($115 for two people). Starting June 26, cheese and charcuterie platters with pickled estate vegetables are offered ($25). Appointments are available 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Friday through Sunday.

10300 Chalk Hill Road, Healdsburg, 707-657-1809, chalkhill.com

Davis Family Vineyards

Go wine tasting down by the riverside with Guy Davis and his family. Their large patio, bocce court and organic garden area hug the Russian River, just north of Healdsburg’s Memorial Bridge. Guests sit at safely spaced picnic tables or in the garden lounge to enjoy tastings of five wines (various flights are available) and bites from chefs Duskie Estes and John Stewart and their Black Piglet food truck.

Pinot noir, both still and sparkling, and Rhone Valley varietals are the strong suits of this friendly, fun-loving winery. Open by appointment only, with seatings at noon, 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. $20 per person

2 Front St, Healdsburg, 707-433-3858, davisfamilyvineyards.com

Dry Creek Vineyard

Forty-eight years young and getting stronger by the day, this pioneering Dry Creek Valley winery was founded in 1972 by Dave Stare, whose passion for the white wines of France’s Loire Valley prompted him to plant and produce sauvignon blanc between Dry Creek and West Dry Creek roads.

Today, Stare’s daughter, Kim Stare Wallace, and winemaker Tim Bell turn out a wide range of well-priced varietals, among them chardonnay, pinot noir, merlot and cabernet sauvignon, although sauvignon and zinfandel are the longstanding stars. The vast lawn outside the tasting room door has long been outfitted with picnic tables for casual tastings, and the custom continues, albeit at 6 or more feet apart. Mature trees and other landscaping make for a cool, welcoming environment. $25. Open by appointment, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

3770 Lambert Bridge Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-1000, drycreekvineyard.com

Fort Ross Vineyard & Winery

For a real get-out-of-Dodge day, venture to this strikingly beautiful winery setting in Jenner. The outdoor deck offers jaw-dropping views of the Pacific Ocean, coastal redwoods and lush meadows. Here, owners Linda and Lester Schwartz planted chardonnay, pinot noir and pinotage on fog-shrouded ridges, going against viticultural advice that the spot was too cold to ripen wine grapes. The South Africa-native couple proved the pros wrong, achieving a bracing, high-acid style of wine currently made by Jeff Pisoni. Wine tastings ($45) include four estate-grown wines accompanied by a sit-down meal of locally sourced charcuterie and artisanal cheeses; a vegetarian option is available. Reservations are available 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Friday through Monday.

5725 Meyers Grade Road, Jenner, 707-847-3460, fortrossvineyard.com

Hamel Family Wines

Since opening in 2014, Hamel Family Wines has set a high bar for customer service, wine and food experiences and Bordeaux-style red varietals and blends. The coronavirus shutdowns and slow reemergence hasn’t stopped this Glen Ellen winery from offering a most-of-the-frills Reserve Experience.

Start with a glass of rosé during a private guided tour through the Hamel Family Ranch vineyard, winery and adjacent cave. In the cave, taste a yet-to-be-released cabernet sauvignon from the barrel, then move to the patio for a four-course menu prepared by the estate chef and paired with Reserve Series Cabernet Sauvignon blends. $150.

15401 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma, 707-996-5800, hamelfamilywines.com

J. Rickards Winery

The motto for this Cloverdale winery is “Darn Fine Barn Wine,” and a visit here is a throwback to the days when winegrowers preferred to be called farmers and tasting rooms were humble and homey. Proprietor/grower Jim Rickards now schedules appointments in the tasting room Wednesday through Saturday, at the modest price of $15 for five wines.

Yet the best way to go is to order Big John’s Market box lunches from the winery online (prices vary) and reserve a shady spot to picnic outside and taste the wines among the vines … or order a glass or bottle (sauvignon blanc, viognier, rosé and zinfandel are personal favorites). The barn is real and the experience is a reminder that farming forms the foundation of winemaking.

24545 Chianti Road, Cloverdale, 707-367-77, jrwinery.com

J Vineyards & Winery

This Healdsburg winery (it’s just as close to Windsor) is known for its wine and food pairings, some of which constitute full meals. The recent “soft” reopening offers the Legacy on the Terrace tasting, with five small-production chardonnays, pinot noirs and sparkling wines served with complimentary cheeses.

J’s terrace is a quiet oasis, tucked into the vineyards with plenty of umbrellas for shade. $55.

J Vineyards & Winery, 11447 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg, 707-431-5430, jwine.com

Kunde Family Winery

The generous patio between the parking lot and indoor tasting room is conducive to hosting tastings with plenty of physical distancing. A pre-set group of wines from an amazingly broad lineup is served, along with a food component.

Sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, old-zinfandel and merlot are fan favorites, made by Zach Long, who has his choice of grapes grown on the 1,850-acre estate. For now, Kunde’s estate hikes and cave tours are not available. $40.

9825 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-833-5501, kunde.com

St. Francis Winery & Vineyards

St. Francis is known in these parts not only as a producer of top-notch wines spanning a broad price spectrum, but also for its restaurant-level wine and pairing program. Since reopening, this eastern Santa Rosa winery offers its acclaimed Wine & Food Pairing experience in its dining room ($85 per person).

For an entirely open-air tasting, go for the Estate Pairings ($50) of wines matched with light bites on the Vineyard Portico. The views of vineyards and the Mayacamas mountain range are an added bonus.

100 Pythian Road at Highway 12, Santa Rosa, 888-675-9463, stfranciswinery.com

Grossman’s Leads the Deli Renaissance in Sonoma County

June 2020

By Heather Irwin

Turkey “moistmaker” sandwich at Grossman’s in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin / Sonoma Magazine)

Holy knishes! Grossman’s Noshery and Bar, Mark and Terri Stark’s newish “Jew-ish” delicatessen, has finally opened with the full menu we’ve all be kvetching for. With everything from egg creams, latkes and smoked fish to chopped liver, matzoh ball soup and pelmeni, it’s a nosh-mitzvah!

One of the first victims of the shelter-in-place mandate, Grossman’s was slated for a grand opening in late March, ironically the day after the order went into effect. Though the Starks offered takeout on and off with a limited menu, it wasn’t until the first week of June that they could serve their homey, Eastern European-inspired deli menu for both dine-in and takeout.

Over the years, only a handful Jewish delis — Kosher or not — have been part of Sonoma County’s culinary scene. In the 1950s, they included Eisenhood’s, Mac’s Kosher Style and Ben’s Kosher. Only Mac’s stood the test of time, continuing to satisfy our love of pastrami, corned beef sandwiches and hearty rye bread.*

And though a good Reuben has never gone out of fashion, Old World deli staples like beef tongue, chicken liver, whitefish and even matzoh ball soup fell out of favor for healthier, more modern cuisine. In 2015, fewer than 150 Jewish delis remained in the entire country.

Fortunately, a nationwide delicatessen renaissance has sparked renewed interest in comforting, bubbe-style cooking. Grossman’s is all that and a bag of matzoh chips.

Pickled beet salad at Grossman’s in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin / Sonoma Magazine) — Pickled beet salad at Grossman’s in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD

Turkey “moistmaker” sandwich at Grossman’s in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD

Best Bets

Don’t worry if you’re not habituated to dishes like smoked whitefish salad, chopped liver and pickled herring.

There’s plenty of familiar food like hummus, latkes, falafel, egg salad, pastrami sandwiches and a ridiculously good patty melt to love. Break out of your comfort zone and try something new, even if it’s a tasty egg cream (which includes neither egg nor cream) with vodka.

Potato Leek Latkes, $8: These are exactly like my family’s version, minus being limp and greasy. Super-duper crispy cakes, without puddles of oil and with the required sour cream and applesauce. Divine and necessary.

Chopped Liver and Onions, $9: You can’t have a real deli without a lot of chicken, and with a lot of chicken comes a lot of schmaltz and gribenes — chicken fat and skin rendered into golden goodness.

That’s the beauty of beak-to-tail cooking, which also includes chicken livers. Chopped and mixed with caramelized onions and a topping of hard boiled egg and crispy chicken skin, it’s the most heymish dish on the menu.

Veal and Shitake Pelmeni, $11: Can a dumpling be life-changing? Turns out, yes. Pelmeni and tortellini are second cousins, but these little pouches are flavor-filled with seasoned veal and earthy shitakes with a topping of sour cream and fresh dill.

The Sandwiches: It goes without saying that Grossman’s house-made pastrami and corned beef are signatures, served with fresh rye (Grossman’s features its own bakery) and deli mustard. Hence, the Reuben is also insanely good. Here are a few other must-trys.

Egg Salad, $12: Just like grandma’s. A big fat sandwich of creamy egg salad without any weird stuff (like pickle relish or celery), served on fresh house-made challah.

The Weinberger Patty Melt, $14: I’ve never understood why anyone would eat a cheeseburger when you could have a griddled burger with caramelized onions on good rye bread.

This is the father of all patty melts, with the addition of pastrami, Gruyere cheese (the matured sibling of Swiss) and special sauce. Chef Matt Weinberger, executive chef de cuisine for Grossman’s, has our compliments on this beast of a sando.

Sabich Platter, $21: If you want a sampling of items, the platters — smoked meats, smoked fish or the sabich — are the way to go.

We loved the vegetarian(ish) board of eggplant, crisp and flavorful falafel, pickled cabbage, tahina (crushed sesame seeds, garlic and lemons), Israeli salad, 8-minute egg and amba (a vinegary pickled mango sauce) with pita bread.

And the rest: We haven’t mentioned the fresh-made bagels, schmears, matzoh ball soup and a laundry list of other tasty treats as well as family-style meals for takeout.

There are also a great cocktail list and full bar and tasty deli pantry items for purchase.

Like any good deli, Grossman’s menu is something you explore over time, not at one sitting. Once the outdoor patio opens in a few weeks, we’ll have even more reason to sit, schmooze and feast.

308 1/2 Wilson St., Santa Rosa (at the Hotel La Rose). Open Wednesday through Sunday from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., 707-595-7707, grossmanssr.com

* Thanks to my Facebook friends, including Gabe Meline, for sussing out some of the history of Jewish delis in Sonoma County. L’chaim!

‘Right Fist in the Air, Strong and Confident’: Black Women in Sonoma County Speak Out

June 2020

By Susan Minichiello

Seventeen Black women wearing vibrant, cheerful colors posed on the steps of the Museum of Sonoma County last Sunday, proud and unapologetic.

“Right fist in the air, strong and confident,” said Malia Anderson, a 43-year-old Santa Rosa wardrobe stylist, as a photographer clicked away. Cars drove by and honked in support, and the women cheered through facial masks.

Anderson had organized the photoshoot for the local Black women as a way to elevate their voices and connect them during a momentous, historic shift in the Black Lives Matter movement in Sonoma County and across the U.S.

“Obviously our world is kind of upside down and sideways right now and there are so many things going on, and I was trying to figure out what my place in the whole thing was,” said Anderson, CEO of Style by Malia. “I realized that part of the reason, as a Black woman, I couldn’t really figure out where my story fit was because nobody was telling my story.”

Anderson had been thinking recently about Breonna Taylor, Sandra Bland, Dominique Rem’mie Fells and Riah Milton — Black women and and trans women whose deaths, including at the hands of police in Taylor’s case, often have been overshadowed.

“Why are Black women not at the forefront of this movement?” Anderson said.

While the photoshoot was fun and uplifting for the participants, for many, it also was a political act to raise the visibility of Black women in public discussion and media representation. Several of them pointed to coverage of Taylor’s death compared with the more prominent coverage of George Floyd’s death in Minneapolis, which has sparked weeks of protests across the country.

Gayle Whitlock, a 62-year-old licensed marriage family therapist, called the photoshoot “a radical act of self-care.”

“I wanted to not only come out and support Malia’s mission but also have my voice heard as a Black woman in this town that’s not the most affirming place to live if you are a person of color,” said Whitlock, who specializes in helping women through racism, anxiety, depression and trauma at New Leaf Counseling Services in Santa Rosa.

“I felt hopeful and I felt empowered and I felt strong. I felt the strength of other Black women, other beautiful women who are deciding to be heard,” she said.

Letitia Hanke, 44, has an autoimmune disease and couldn’t risk exposure to the novel coronavirus in large crowds of protestors, but she supports the Black Lives Matter movement. She credits this year’s wave of activism to young people and to the pandemic.

“This is my protest. This is my way of showing my strength in this community,” said Hanke, president and CEO of Alternative Roofing Solutions.

“I think COVID has actually helped this situation in many ways because people have the time to protest, to research, watch the videos, watch the documentaries. That’s what’s happening right now.”

Anderson chose the Museum of Sonoma County as the site for the photoshoot because the movement and the moment felt historic, and because it’s in downtown Santa Rosa, near the site of weeks of Black Lives Matter marches.

“Putting women together who look like each other, who live in one special world and who get it — you’re like, ‘Oh this is what power feels like,’” Anderson said. “It carries me through to know that I’m a part of something, and I hope it carries these women through.”

Whitlock said the deaths of Taylor, Floyd and Ahmaud Arbery, a 25-year-old unarmed Black man in Georgia fatally shot while on a run, propelled her to protest in the crowds while wearing a facial mask.

“I stepped back and felt the pandemic that has been affecting my life, my son, the people I care about and love, has been going on for 401 years, and I have to say something. I have to speak out. I have to be engaged,” she said.

Shawntel Reece with her two daughters, ages 15 and 11. (Loren Hansen)

Shawntel Reece, a 40-year-old Santa Rosa social worker, came to the photoshoot with her two daughters, ages 15 and 11. A member of the NAACP, Reece said she appreciates the momentum of the movement and seeing white people bring their kids to protests in recent weeks, but more systemic changes need to be made.

“I get pulled over for nothing,” said Reece, who estimated that she gets pulled over by the police once every three months.

Reece said she’s bolder with police now. She always asks, “Are you going to shoot me?” and mentions that her daughters are in the car.

At a recent rally, her daughters each held a sign indicating what they want for their futures: one wants to be a physical therapist, the other, an engineer. Reece’s sign read, “I want my kids to be alive.”

Blatant racism and racist microaggressions are a part of everyday existence as a Black woman in the U.S., including Sonoma County, said several women at the photoshoot.

“I’ve been called the N-word more times than I care to think about, and that hurts every time I hear it,” Anderson said. “I’ve been called the N-word just walking down the street minding my own business.”

Recently, Anderson was walking in downtown Petaluma with her white family members when a stranger in a passing car shouted, “All lives matter!”

Whitlock recalled being asked by a former coworker if she was going to bring fried chicken to a work potluck. Hanke recalled swastikas on her car.

When Amber Lucas was a preteen, girls at her school would exchange locks of each other’s hair tied in a bow as a friendship keepsake. She remembered being laughed at by a classmate when it was her turn to cut a lock of hair.

“Ew, what’s that? That looks like a bunch of pubes,” her classmate said.

Lucas went home that day and cried. She was so embarrassed, she said, that she wore her hair in a slick bun for the rest of the school year, so no curls would show. As a college student, she worked a parttime job to save money for an expensive hair straightener.

Today Lucas is a 34-year-old marketing manager in Santa Rosa and lifestyle blogger. She said for the Black Lives Matter movement to be effective, change needs to go beyond voting or sharing a black box on social media to bring attention to black victims of police violence.

“It has to be stepping into this really uncomfortable zone and calling these racist acts out,” she said. “This is something that must be addressed every single day. It has to be addressed in our homes. It has to be addressed amongst our friends. It has to be addressed at work.”

For Lucas, who is multiracial with a Haitian and Danish ancestry, being Black is something she said she’s still learning about every day.

Whitlock, the therapist, said for her Blackness is living in a way that honors her mother who died when she was six and lived through Jim Crow laws in Alabama. Her mother instilled in her a hopeful message to her to live a full life and pursue her goals.

“That message lives in me, and I feel it every day,” Whitlock said. “My unapologetic Blackness is all of the women who came before me, the Maya Angelous, the Ida B. Wells, the Harriet Tubmans. How in the world did they have the strength to do what they did?”

Seventeen Black women stand together on the steps of the Museum of Sonoma County in Santa Rosa. (Loren Hansen)

The group photos and individual portraits will be posted online on the women’s websites and social media accounts using three hashtags: #sonomablackwomen, #shareblackwomenstories and #winecountryblackwomen. Anderson will have her story posted on her website maliaanderson.com.

The posts will be shared on Juneteenth, the June 19 holiday that celebrates the end of slavery in the U.S.

“These photos, for me, are an opportunity to see what Black women go through just to get to where we are now,” Anderson said.

Susan Minichiello is a freelance writer based in Santa Rosa. More at susanmini.com.

How to Camp Away From the Crowds in Sonoma County

June 2020

By Jess Lander

Looking for a way to escape your house without having to closely interact with anyone? Online marketplace HipCamp, “the Airbnb of camping,” rents out pieces of private land where travelers can pitch a tent or park their RV. There’s also a glamping section of the website where you can book cabins, barns, and other rustic-chic retreats that take the “roughing it” out of camping. Each listing offers either a completely private experience or one that’s semi-private, which seems suitable during the pandemic. You definitely won’t be sharing bathroom facilities with dozens of other campers, which is the greatest risk when it comes to camping right now.

Click through the above gallery to see a few HipCamp glamping sites in Sonoma County.