Local Wineries and Chefs Are Teaming Up for Unique Dining Experiences

The outdoor patio for Single Thread at Kistler Vineyards’ Trenton Roadhouse. (Heather Irwin / Sonoma Magazine)

Wineries and chefs are teaming up to create one of the biggest pandemic wins in Wine Country. Pairing wide-open outdoor spaces with destination-worthy meals, it’s a win-win for both struggling industries.

One of the newest entrants is Bricoleur Vineyards, which hired former Chalkboard and Brass Rabbit chef Shane McAnelly last spring. This infant winery has been under construction for nearly five years and on the cusp of opening fell victim to the on-again, off-again pandemic rules surrounding tastings and wineries.

Now the nearly 50-acre winery is up and running with several outdoor dining experiences, the best of which is the Summer Wine Classic series. At the event, which kicked off in early August, guests are seated near a pond under large arbors and served a satisfyingly complete four-course dinner that pairs Bricoleur wines with of-the-moment produce from their own farm and nearby purveyors.

2018 Alexander Valley Zinfancel at Bricoleur Vineyards. Heather Irwin/PD
2018 Alexander Valley Zinfancel at Bricoleur Vineyards. (Heather Irwin)
Elote agnilotti with roasted corn, charred shishito pepper, lime, cotija, cilantro at Bricoleur Vineyards’ Summer Classic Wine Dinner Series. Heather Irwin/PD
Elote agnilotti with roasted corn, charred shishito pepper, lime, cotija, cilantro at Bricoleur Vineyards’ Summer Classic Wine Dinner Series. (Heather Irwin)

McAnelly mans an impressively outfitted kitchen, serving up dishes like his “elote” agnolotti with roasted corn, charred shishito peppers, lime and cotija cheese with the winery’s 2018 Kick Ranch Viogner, a chill little scamp that doesn’t overwhelm with acidity and pairs well with a hint of heat in the peppers. Pasta is an obsession with McAnelly, and it shows in these plump little pockets of pasta filled with sweet corn puree that is easily one of the best dishes of the year.

This time of year there’s magic in heirloom tomatoes with anise-y basil and cucumber, fresh summer squash and berries foraged from nearby bushes. McAnelly plays with them all, piling layers of ripe flavors, like his coconut tres leches cake with roasted strawberries, blackberry, chantilly cream and Greek basil, or using carrot tops for an earthy salsa verde with grilled Snake River farms steak.

The menus change up throughout the rest of the series, with an ode to Julia Child on Aug. 15 and a pig-centric menu on Aug. 29. Tickets cost $150 per person.

If you’re looking for a more affordable, family-friendly experience, the winery hosts pizza nights with wine pairings for grownups and kid-friendly options for everyone else. $65 for adults, $35 for kids.

Also available are to-go picnics on the expansive property, which features a large pond with black swans, a heart-stoppingly beautiful rose garden, a farm and some of the fluffiest chickens you’ll ever see.

7394 Starr Rd, Windsor. Tickets available through facebook.com/bricoleurvineyards or at bricoleurvineyards.com

More winery-chef collaborations worth checking out

Single Thread in Healdsburg is bringing their carefully curated dining experience to the sprawling 60-acre Kistler Vineyards near Forestville. Guests will be served a 10-course menu with of-the-moment ingredients befitting a three-Michelin star restaurant. Offered through the end of September. Thursday through Monday evenings. $375 per person, reservations required, singlethreadfarms.com.

Big Bottom Market in Guerneville is delivering picnic lunches to several wineries, such as Bowman Cellars in Graton and Iron Horse Vineyards in Sebastopol, as well as AutoCamp in Guerneville. bigbottommarket.com/wine-country-lunch-order-form.

Flowers Vineyards & Winery in Healdsburg has partnered with chef Tyler Florence for “Flowers & Florence To Go” a pickup-option for parties of 4 or 8 featuring Flowers Sonoma Coast Chardonnay or Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir paired with Florence’s fried chicken and locally sourced sides. flowerswinery.com.

Jordan Winery in Healdsburg has created Paris on the Patio and other programs featuring picture-perfect meals from chef Todd Knoll.

New Sonoma Wine Bar and Restaurant Serves Up Natural Wines and a French Vibe

Valley Bar and Bottle in Sonoma has the feel of a cozy French cafe. (Conor Hagen/Valley Bar + Bottle)

There’s a new wine bar on the Sonoma Plaza and it’s the first in Sonoma and Napa County to zero in on natural wines. 

Valley Bar + Bottle opened in July as a wine bar, restaurant, and bottle shop. Housed in the Leese-Fitch Adobe built in 1836, which was most recently Harvest Moon Cafe, Valley feels like a tiny neighborhood cafe in France. It’s intimate and minimal, yet chic with dusty pink accent walls and a rustic open kitchen. There’s a bar and a few tables inside, but for now, all seating is on the back patio. Visitors can also take wine home from the positively-adorable bottle shop wall at 25 percent off the menu price. 

Valley Bar and Bottle in Sonoma has the feel of a cozy French cafe. (Conor Hagen/Valley Bar + Bottle)
Valley’s interior has the feel of a cozy French cafe. (Conor Hagen photo)

“We wanted it to feel inviting and open but also European and kind of cozy,” said Lauren Feldman, co-founder of Valley. “It was really important to make sure we didn’t change it too much from the fact that it was this amazing historic Adobe. We didn’t change anything architecturally; we just wanted to make it feel humble and clean and as original as we could.” 

This unique-to-California Wine Country venture is a partnership between four friends (two couples), all alumni of Scribe Winery. Each founder brings unique skills and experiences to the table, drawing also on time spent in New York and Europe. 

The Wine

Feldman said they’re not technically marketing themselves as a natural wine bar—the term can be both controversial and difficult to define since there’s no official regulation on this burgeoning corner of the market—but almost the entire wine list at Valley does fall into the general category of natural wines. This means the wines have received little to no intervention in the cellar, are produced entirely without or with minimal sulfur, and the vintners farm organically sans pesticides.

“We’re focused on farming first. We’re working with people who want to leave the land better than they found it,” said Feldman. “We’re really interested in Indigenous farming methods and regenerative farming.”

Locals may be especially drawn to the wine list, which presents an opportunity to explore wines that go far beyond Sonoma County. While there are a few bottles from local producers like Gail Wines, Source & Sink, Winery Sixteen 600, and Scribe (of course), the lineup mostly hails from Europe — France, Spain, Italy, Germany, Hungary, Slovenia and beyond — while also highlighting other appellations within California. The current by the glass list features unique selections like a sparkling Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley and a red wine from the Canary Islands. Don’t be embarrassed if you discover several grape varieties you aren’t familiar with and likewise can’t pronounce; you’re not alone and that’s part of the fun. 

Take bottles to go from Valley's bottle shop. (Conor Hagen photo)
Take bottles to go from Valley’s bottle shop. (Conor Hagen photo)

Curated by Feldman and her beau/co-founder Tanner Walle, the list “has something for everyone” and is a good balance of “some really weird stuff” (her style) and more classic (his). “We’re also not proponents of wines that are super flawed,” she said, acknowledging a common critique of the natural wine category. “The best wines and the worst wines you’ll ever have are natural wines.” Patrons will also find a selection of beers and ciders sourced from all over the U.S. 

The Food

Partner Emma Lipp, who was the Culinary Director at Scribe for five years, is responsible for Valley’s food menu, along with co-founder and chef Stephanie Reagor. Lipp said the concept for the fare is California home cooking that’s ingredient- driven, rustic, and simple using traditional methods of cooking. “We want our food to facilitate the experience of sharing wine and conversation,” she said. “We want it to feel nourishing and satisfying, and we emphasize brightness and levity.”

Lipp made many connections with local farmers during her time at Scribe and said “working with small, local farms and purveyors is the cornerstone of the food program” at Valley. The list of farms she’s working with is long and impressive: 11 different operations for produce, TwoXSea for fresh fish, and Cream Company for meat, chickens, and eggs, just to name a few. 

Tin & Chips are one of the small plate offerings at Valley. (Courtesy photo)
Tin and Chips are one of the small plate offerings at Valley. (Courtesy of Valley Bar + Bottle)

“We source everything for Valley with the same agenda: stewardship for the land and care for people,” said Lipp, who seeks out “farmers and purveyors that farm sustainably, who eschew chemical farming, and who invest in human culture and economy.”

The XO Egg topped with the iconic, spicy Hong Kong condiment, are a must-order. Other small plates on offer include mortadella, a pink shrimp roll, tins and chips (with your choice of a tin of razor clams, mussels, or octopus), and eggplant with ginger and garlic. There are two main dishes—a half chicken with fried potatoes and Bolinas King salmon with cucumber and sesame—plus a selection of desserts. The menu does shift slightly depending on what produce and ingredients are available each week. Valley is open Thursday-Monday, 5-9 p.m.

487 First West, Sonoma, valleybarandbottle.com

This Year’s Gravenstein Apple Fair Becomes ‘Grav & Go’ Event

Festival goers of all ages, Saturday August 13, 2011 enjoyed the Gravenstein Apple Fair in Sebastopol. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat) 2011

The much-loved Gravenstein Apple Fair is canceled this year due to the pandemic, but don’t despair: apple lovers can still get their fix thanks to a new “Grav & Go” event.

Taking place on the weekend of Aug. 15 and 16, the event will feature a variety of products — apple-scented soaps, ciders, juice, pies and more — from local farmers and producers, including Backyard restaurant, Dutton Ranch, Lala’s Jam Bar & Urban Farmstead, Meyer Apples, Mom’s Apple Pie, North Coast Organic, Tilted Shed Ciderworks, and The Soap Cauldron.

All products are made from Gravenstein apples and will be available for curbside pickup at the Sebastopol Community Cultural Center during the weekend event. Orders should be placed in advance online (deadline is Aug. 13, at noon).

The annual fair, now in its 47th year, is the primary fundraiser for local nonprofit Sonoma County Farm Trails and continues to benefit the organization through this year’s event. All participating vendors are members of the “Farm Trails family” and customers can choose to add a donation to their order. (If you donate $50 or more, you will receive an apple-themed reversible cloth face mask sewn by Farm Trails volunteers).

“Connecting the public with our local growers and producers is a big part of what we do,” said Carmen Snyder, Farm Trails’ executive director and manager of the Gravenstein Apple Fair. “In the absence of the fair this year, the pop-up concept provides a safe way to do that and add a little taste of the fair in the process. We’re making the pickup experience as fun and festive as possible.”

Top Santa Rosa Restaurants for Outdoor Dining

Sonoma County restaurants are open now for outdoor dining in addition to takeout and delivery services. If you’ve missed eating outside of the house, why not (safely) visit one of your local favorites? We’ve compiled a list of Santa Rosa restaurants that are open for outdoor or patio dining. Click through the above gallery for photos of the patios and outdoor spaces.

Ca’ Bianca in Santa Rosa has outdoor seating on the terrace and in the garden. (Courtesy of Ca’ Bianca)

Ausiello’s 5th Street Bar and Grill: Serving indoor and outdoor food in their al fresco parking space and sidewalk tent along with cocktails (like their famous Bloody Mary).  609 5th St, 707-579-9408, ausiellos5thstreetgrill.com.

Bird & The Bottle: Walk-in patio dining available. Continuing to increase operating hours, check website for most up-to-date hours of operation. 1055 4th St, Santa Rosa, 707-568-4000, birdandthebottle.com.

Ca’Bianca Ristorante Italiano: Open for outdoor dining, blending Italian cuisine from multiple regions in Italy. 835 Second St., Santa Rosa, 707-542-5800, cabianca.com.

Cattlemens Steakhouse: Open for outdoor dining, offering a steakhouse experience with steaks, ribs and a plethora of starters. 2400 Midway Drive, 707-546-1446, cattlemens.com/restaurants/santa-rosa.

Cibo Rustico: Pizza and other Italian food served outside. 1305 Cleveland Ave., Suite C, Santa Rosa, 707-623-9906, ciborustico.com.

Cozy Plum Bistro: Patio seating to enjoy plant-based options, from burgers to wraps and bowls. See menu here. 1899 Mendocino Ave., 707-526-3333, cozyplum.com.

Fogbelt Brewing: Grab a draft beer and a signature order of deluxe fries and enjoy on the restaurant’s patio. 1305 Cleveland Ave, Santa Rosa, 707-978-3400, fogbeltbrewing.com.

Franchettis’ Gasthaus: Cozy patio open for German-Italian fusion food made from seasonal ingredients. 1229 N. Dutton Ave., Santa Rosa. 707-526-1229, franchettis.com.

Grossman’s Noshery & Bar: Order some dumplings, soup or other homey classics and dine on the Noshery’s new patio. 308 ½ Wilson Street at Hotel La Rose in Historic Railroad Square, Santa Rosa, 707-595-7707, grossmanssr.com.

Juncture Taproom and Lounge: Regular food menu and daily specials, growlers available on the back patio. Patio eats by reservation only. 4357 Montgomery Dr, 707-293-9702, restaurantji.com/ca/santa-rosa/juncture-taproom-and-lounge-/

John Ash & Co.: Outdoor dining available at this romantic restaurant nestled next to Vintners Resort. 4350 Barnes Rd., Santa Rosa, 800-421-2584, vintnersresort.com/dining/john-ash-co/.

La Gare French Restaurant: French cuisine available for outdoor dining. 208 Wilson St, 707- 528-4355, lagarerestaurant.com.

Mac’s Deli & Cafe: The oldest continuing breakfast and sandwich cafe in Sonoma County is open for outdoor dining. 4th Street, 707-545-378-5630, macsdeliandcafe.com.

Mary’s Pizza Shack: Patios available at all three Santa Rosa locations. 535 Summerfield Rd., 707-538-1888; 615 Fourth St., 707-571-1959; 3084 Marlow Rd., 707-573-1100, maryspizzashack.com.

Monti’s in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy of Monti’s)

Monti’s: Get some top-notch seafood or pasta to eat on the Monti’s patio. Montgomery Village Shopping Center 714 Village Ct, Santa Rosa, 707-568-4404, starkrestaurants.com/stark-restaurant/montis.

Ricky’s Eastbound: Family-style meals with pizza, mac n’ cheese and other entrees served on the patio. 5755 Mountain Hawk Dr., 707-843-5143. rickyseastbound.com. 

Riviera Restaurant: Limited capacity outdoor dining with pastas, fish and meat dishes. 75 Montgomery Drive, 707-579-2682, rivieraristorante.net.

Rosso: Patio dining (both in front and a new spot in back) available for new pizza and wines. 53 Montgomery Dr, 707-544-3221, rossopizzeria.com.

Russian River Brewing Company, Santa Rosa: Order Pliny bites and pizza with your favorite IPA at the Santa Rosa Brewpub’s outdoor dining area. 725 4th St, Santa Rosa, 707-545-2337, russianriverbrewing.com.

SEA Thai Bistro & Bar: Enjoy fresh Southeast Asian cuisine combining traditional Asian flavors and modern, local ingredients. 2350 Midway Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-528-8333, seathaibistrobar.com.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CDeOKDsl4Xn/

The Spinster Sisters: New outdoor dining space makes it even more fun to try their regularly updated menus featuring local ingredients. 401 S A St, 707-528-7100, thespinstersisters.com.

Stark’s Steak & Seafood: Outdoor reservations available, including a Brazilian Backyard BBQ Pop-Up. 521 Adams St, Santa Rosa, 707-546-5100, starkrestaurants.com/stark-restaurant/starks-steak-seafood.

Steele and Hops: Outdoor dining available with modern brewpub dishes and cocktails. 1901 Mendocino Ave, 707-523-2201, steeleandhops.com.

Tomatina: Family-friendly Italian food on the restaurant’s patio. 2323 Sonoma Avenue, Santa Rosa, 707-583-0035, tomatina.com/locations/northbay/santa-rosa.

Stark’s Steak and Seafood in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy of Stark’s Steak and Seafood)

Union Hotel Restaurant: Outdoor dining with full bar service and Italian food. 280 Mission Blvd., 707-538-6000, unionhotel.com.

Victory House at Epicenter: Taking reservations for the outdoor sports bar with dozens of HD screens for prime viewing. 3215 Coffey Ln, 707-757-9041, visitepicenter.com/dining/victory-house-sports-bar.

Walter Hansel Bistro: Patio open, offering a number of high-quality entrees and wines. 3535 Guerneville Rd, 707-546-6462. walterhanselbistro.com

Willi’s Wine Bar: Reservations available for patio seating, “surf,” “earth,” and “turf” inspired dishes served. on their covered patio 1415 Town and Country Dr, Santa Rosa, 707-526-3096, starkrestaurants.com/stark-restaurant/willis-wine-bar.

Sonoma County Fair Food Drive-Thru This Weekend

Funnel Cake at the Sonoma County Fair. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)

Turn that corndog-lovin’ frown upside down, because your favorite Sonoma County Fair food will be ready for pickup Aug. 7 through 9 and 14 through 16 from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Though the 2020 Sonoma County Fair has been canceled, some of the event’s favorite food vendors will be firing up the fryers, batter-coating the dogs and getting the grills sizzling for a drive-through feast with many of your favorite guilty summer pleasures.

Heaven knows we could all use some flossy cotton candy, churros, tart lemonade and funnel cakes piled high with strawberry sauce and whipped cream. Also on the menu — corndogs, giant turkey legs, candy apples, kettle corn, and a few surprises, according to organizers.

Want the deets? Here’s what you’ll need to do…

To order food, customers will drive through Gate #2 off of Bennett Valley Road and be directed through the Fairgrounds! Once you get to the food booth area you will be greeted by an employee who will take your order and collect payment. To ensure the safety of guests and staff, customers will be asked to remain in their vehicles and wear a mask when interacting with staff; the process will be much like a restaurant drive-through experience.

We say, to keep things moving for everyone, cash is king, plan ahead (the menu will be posted on the Fairgrounds’ Instagram and Facebook pages, and please be polite to staff, as this is their first effort at bringing you a little glimmer of happiness during this bummer of a summer.

6 Best Veggie Burritos in Sonoma County

With our vegetarian and veg-curious readership in mind, we set out on the daunting task of finding the best veggie burritos Sonoma County has to offer. Not to be too confident, but we’re pretty sure we nailed it.

Sonoma County’s best veggie burritos can be found at Sebastopol’s Papas and Pollo, where two vegetarian burritos tie for first place on this list. Both burritos are huge, and made with (vegan) Spanish rice, (vegan) black beans, Monterey jack cheese, pico de gallo salsa, organic local greens and big hunks of Wildwood organic tofu.

The Tofu Temptation burrito comes with a heavy sprinkling of nutritional yeast, for those craving a little more of a salty, cheesy flavor. The Tofu Verde burrito is served with a house-made chile verde sauce, which adds a bright and zesty kick.

Even our meat-loving, tofu-hating dining companion found it hard to stop chowing down on them. “I never thought I’d eat this much tofu,” she said.

At Papas and Pollo — a Sebastopol staple for almost 25 years —nothing comes from cans and nearly everything is made fresh on site.

This surfer-Mex spot (which they bill as Seb-Mex) earned extra bonus points for the menu’s willingness to cater to health-conscious tastes, including the option of making any burrito “naked” by skipping the tortilla and placing the ingredients on a bed of organic greens; using tofu as a meat replacement for any dish; and its list of protein- and veggie-stuffed yams, which come chock full of black beans, cheese, pico de gallo, sour cream and your filling of choice.

Papas and Pollo, 915 Gravenstein Hwy., Sebastopol, 707-829-9037, papasandpollo.com

Click through the above gallery to see which other veggie burritos made our list. Don’t see your favorite? Let us know in the comments!

Secret Gardens & Secret Menus: News On Sonoma’s Outdoor Dining Scene

Tamarind glazed grilled shrimp at Stark’s Steak and Seafood Brazilian BBQ popup in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin / Sonoma Magazine)

Hidden worlds are coming to life in Sonoma County as restaurateurs reimagine the possibilities of outdoor dining. Nestled behind gates or hidden in plain sight, popping up overnight or temporarily transporting us to other countries, the al fresco experience has become more than simply eating under an umbrella.

With re-tooled menus, destination locations and a socially distanced party atmosphere, these three adventurous dining excursions are perfect for cooped-up bodies and bored brains in need of a little fresh air and sunshine.

Secret Garden: Kivelstadt Cellars

Ignore the construction detritus and parking lot mayhem at the former Schellville Grill. Just look for the colorful koi painted on the sidewalk to direct you to your destination — a looking glass-like eating adventure that’s still mostly unknown to outsiders.

Owner and winemaker Jordan Kivelstadt has created a breezy outdoor cafe that’s enclosed and separated from speeding traffic and the drudgery of the outside world. It’s shaded by leafy trees and offers well-spaced tables for a personalized dining experience. Featured are approachable wines along with local beers, cider, mimosas, Bloody Marys and an outstanding brunch and lunch menu from Chef Oscar Bendeck (Sonoma Raceway).

Describing the cafe as a “Wine Garden,” Kivelstadt said he wanted a casual spot for his friends and local families to hang out and just enjoy the outdoor space. And though the play area is temporarily off-limits, there’s plenty of room for tots to roam, small family groups to spread out and solo diners or couples to have a relaxing grown-up experience.

Brunch, which started in late July, is a best bet. Start with Oscar’s French omelet ($14), a deceptively challenging dish to get right, stuffed with Brie cheese and fresh local herbs. The Sonoma Benny ($16) is surprisingly complex, with roasted tomato, eggplant and squash topped with hollandaise. We also couldn’t resist a hearty bowl of KC-quiles ($14), a riff on chilaquiles with smoked tomatillo salsa, cojita cheese and avocado crema.

There are a few “secret” off-menu items like the “Gone Fishing,” their ode to the former Ford’s diner, which operated in the space until 2002. It’s a plate-sized pancake with two over-easy eggs, bacon and hash browns or the lunch banh mi with tri-tip instead of shiitake mushrooms.

Guided tastings are available as well, and it’s worth trying their super-unconventional wines like the crisp, summery KC Labs Pinot Blanc.

Reservations highly recommended. 22900 Broadway, Sonoma, kivelstadtcellars.com

Churascarria: Stark’s Brazilian BBQ Pop-Up

The scent of mesquite charcoal and grilled meat greets you upon entering the parking lot pop-up cafe outside the Starks’ flagship steakhouse. It’s an impromptu all-you-can eat outdoor experience that’s both casual and upscale, with filet mignon and pork belly, tamarind shrimp and several of their signature dishes like potato skin fondue, fresh rolls bathed in dill butter and seasonal Early Girl tomato salad with sweet onions and blue cheese.

Berry crisp and s’mores pie at at Stark’s Steak and Seafood Brazilian BBQ popup in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin/PD
Berry crisp and s’mores pie at at Stark’s Steak and Seafood Brazilian BBQ popup in Santa Rosa. Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat

You’ll be tempted to load up on apps, but save some space for platters of perfectly grilled New York and ribeye steaks, lemon herb chicken and smoky barbecue salmon.

For dessert, there’s a sweet-tart berry crisp with whipped cream and s’mores pie with dark chocolate and campfire marshmallows. Have it all for $49 per person. The one drawback: No doggie bags for you or Fido. Weekly featured wines, along with a full cocktail and wine menu. The dinners are already selling out, so make a reservation if you’ve got your heart set on a table.

521 Adams St., Santa Rosa, starkrealityrestaurants.com

Single Thread’s Summer Dinner Series. (Courtesy photo)

Roadhouse Roadshow: Single Thread

Kyle and Katina Connaughton’s carefully curated dining experience will go entirely al fresco at the sprawling 60-acre Kistler Vineyards near Forestville. While overlooking the property’s pond and vineyards, guests will be served a 10-course menu with of-the-moment ingredients befitting a three-Michelin star restaurant. It’s a dreamy, bespoke experience only offered through the end of September. Thursday through Monday evenings. $375 per person, reservations required, singlethreadfarms.com

We’ll continue seeking out amazing outdoor dining experiences, but if you’ve got a special one we should consider, please email me at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com

5 Top Sonoma Wineries for Cool Outdoor Tastings

Outdoor space at Three Sticks Wines in Sonoma. (Courtesy of Three Sticks Wines)

Reliable Sonoma sunshine and warmth work wonders for ripening wine grapes from August through October. Yet the same conditions aren’t always enjoyed by humans, some of whom can melt under exposure to UV rays and high temperatures. Air-conditioned tasting rooms have allowed folks to sip in soothing surroundings in summer, but with indoor tastings once again prohibited after another round of COVID-19 restrictions, we’re back to sipping wine outdoors.

Wine cave experiences are out, as are cellar tours and the swimming pools at Francis Ford Coppola Winery. It’s now down to umbrella-covered patios, picnic tables shaded by oaks and redwoods, and daily breezes and fog from the ocean, bay and river, to keep wine tasters chill in the heat. Some wineries employ water misters to keep guests cool (the Centers for Disease Control reported there is no evidence that COVID-19 spreads through water, although fans are a no-no).

It’s not just winery guests who can benefit from some temperature control — wines are affected by temperature, too. In general, wines served too cold show muted aromas and flavors. Those served too warm lack freshness and verve. Depending on the varietal, serving recommendations range from 50 degrees F for white wines to 60 degrees F for big reds.

Kim Carlson, senior manager of hospitality and retail sales at Gundlach Bundschu winery in Sonoma, said that each outside tasting location on the property — there are several on this expansive estate, including the Arbor Bar, Vista Courtyard and Donkey Bar — has two wine refrigerators, one for white wines and one for reds, their temperatures calibrated for the optimum tasting experience.

“We want to show each wine in the best way,” she said. “We’ve always had large outdoor experiences, including music festivals, with all the space we have. We’re geared to outdoor tastings.”

If you’re hot to taste Sonoma wine this summer, be sure to make an appointment. Wear brimmed hats and light-colored clothing that’s loose-fitting and breathable. Arrive well-hydrated and sip as much water as you do wine once seated. And consider visiting these five Sonoma wineries, which offer respites from that same sun and warmth that make winegrowing possible here.

Gundlach Bundschu Winery

This family-owned winery has farmed its Rhinefarm estate in Sonoma Valley for 160-plus years. “GunBun” has a reputation for offering good times and good wines, with its gewurztraminers, chardonnays and merlots earning acclaim; its music festivals and multiple tasting sites – outdoors and in – command a devoted following.

The winery is located in the southern end of Sonoma Valley, influenced by breezes that blow from San Pablo Bay from the south and the Petaluma Gap from the west. These conditions, and multiple outdoor seating spaces under shade and near ponds, make GunBun an ideal place to taste wine in summer. Open Thursday-Sunday, 11 a.m.-5 p.m., tasting prices vary by experience.

2000 Denmark Street, Sonoma, 707-938-5277, gunbun.com

Keller Estate Winery

The same wind-tunnel effect that defines the Petaluma Gap winegrowing region keeps this winery, located east of Petaluma, cool and comfy on a typical summer day. Mornings are crisp and the vines are blanketed by fog. The sun burns off the fog and temperatures rise, but by mid-afternoon, brisk breezes arrive, leading to the return of evening fog. Grapes embrace the cool conditions, developing intense flavors with ideal levels of acidity; visitors appreciate not only Keller’s fine chardonnays, pinot noirs and syrahs, but also the escape from the heat.

Estate manager Ana Keller and her staff welcome guests on Fridays and Saturdays, by appointment, at 10:30 a.m., 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. The alfresco Estate Visit ($40) includes a guided walking tour, with wine, of the vineyards, olive groves and artworks, among them a sculpture of Keller’s father, winery founder and classic car collector Arturo Keller. The 90-minute session ends with an outdoor seated tasting.

5875 Lakeville Highway, Petaluma, 707-765-2117, kellerestate.com

Korbel California Champagne

Venture to Guerneville, where the temperatures are cooler than the interior valleys, thanks to its proximity to the Pacific Ocean and the Russian River. The gardens are a treasure, and the tasting experience on the outdoor deck is a fine value. Korbel produces sparkling wines using Champagne methods, which include secondary fermentation in the bottle that creates the bubbles and complexity in sparkling wines.

The winery, which also bottles still wines and brandy, was established in 1882 and is allowed to label its sparklers as “California Champagne,” even though the Champagne term is otherwise limited to wines made in the Champagne region of France. The fee is a modest $10 to taste five wines, $5 for four wines and complimentary for three wines. The Brut Rosé is a personal favorite and a refreshing sipper; it’s also a fine foil for the sandwiches and salads sold in the Korbel deli, which is open to anyone. For those with a sweet tooth, semisweet and sweet sparklers are also offered. Open daily, 10 a.m.-4 p.m.

13250 River Road, Guerneville, 707-824-7319, korbel.com

Seghesio Family Vineyards

Appropriately situated on Grove Street, five blocks northwest of Healdsburg’s downtown, Seghesio boasts a real, honest-to-goodness grove in front of the tasting room, with oaks, magnolias and other mature foliage offering plenty of shade throughout the day. As the sun moves from late morning through late afternoon, the distanced tables, chairs, umbrellas and old-fashioned picnic tables offer various sun and shade exposures, so that there is the ideal seating location for anyone, from sun-seeker to the sun-sensitive.

Founded 125 years ago, Seghesio is known for its old-vine zinfandels, Italian-style white and red wines, and a reintroduction this year of a bright, juicy chardonnay. The arneis and vermentino whites will wet any whistle. Open Thursday-Sunday, 10:30 a.m.-5 p.m., for seated outdoor tastings. $25.

700 Grove Street, Healdsburg, 707-433-3579, seghesio.com

Three Sticks Wines

Owner William Price III painstakingly restored and furnished the historic (1842) Vallejo-Casteñada Adobe residence as the tasting room for his Three Sticks chardonnays, pinot noirs and Rhone varietal wines. With all Sonoma winery visits now outdoors, the inviting patio is even more welcoming, with several shaded tasting spaces, a side garden and a large covered table for physically distanced groups. Water misters help mitigate any heat. The rear parking lot has been converted to a tasting area, with furniture from local design and rental firm The Copper Rose, blending beautifully with the Adobe’s interior and exterior. A large shade structure has also been added.

The wines are superb — don’t miss those from Price’s Durell and Gap’s Crown vineyards — and the $50-per-person tasting, with charcuterie and cheese, can be enhanced by a wine and food pairing, for $85.

143 W. Spain Street, Sonoma, 707-996-3328, threestickswines.com

New Restaurants Are Opening Around Sonoma County Despite the Pandemic

Chicken and Waffles at Gypsy Cafe in Sebastopol. Courtesy photo.

Restaurateurs are a plucky lot. Often unfazed by even the worst circumstances, they forge ahead to feed us through flood, fire and pandemic. But opening (and reopening) right now? That’s for the truly brave, and we’re here to salute their fearless fortitude.

Corner Project Ales and Eats

Opened in May, this family-run brewpub in Geyserville has one brother brewing and the other manning the kitchen. More than just fried pub grub, Chef Tom Adamian’s menu includes lots of comforting dishes like meatball sandwiches, grilled veggie sandos, gem salad and tomato salad. Locally sourced, the menu changes up weekly, but I’m hoping to get one of their sometimes-on-the-menu Geyserville cheesesteaks, chocolate beer brownie and house-fermented pickle plates. Open Thursday through Sunday.

21079 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, cornerprojectales.com

At Chicken Nature in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy photo)

Chicken Nature

Asian food featuring mostly chicken dishes. I’m fascinated by this approachable newcomer to the Marlow shopping center in Santa Rosa. Daily pickup and delivery of simple, but hearty, dishes like chicken curry puffs, tangy tamarind chicken rice bowls, curry rice bowls, poached chicken and rice and grilled chicken and rice. Most entrees are $12.95. Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

1791 Marlow Road, Santa Rosa, chickennature.com

Valley Bar and Bottle

These folks got the serious short end of the stick, planning to open at the former Harvest Moon location in Sonoma just as the pandemic hit. At this bottle shop and restaurant, they’re currently offering a limited menu that includes tinned seafood and chips, half chicken with potatoes, trout with tomatoes and aioli, beet caponata and more.

487 First St., West, Sonoma, valleybarandbottle.com

A table spread at Valley Bar and Bottle. (Valley Bar and Bottle)
At Valley Bar + Bottle in Sonoma. (Courtesy photo)
Chicken and Waffles at Gypsy Cafe in Sebastopol. Courtesy photo.
Chicken and Waffles at Gypsy Cafe in Sebastopol. Courtesy photo.
Cobb salad at Gypsy Cafe in Sebastopol. Courtesy photo.


Gypsy Cafe Reopens

It’s been a long haul for this homey spot in Sebastopol that’s been hit by the double whammy of COVID-19 and a Caltrans project that blocked much of the sidewalk area for months. They’ll be back in action on Aug. 5 for takeout with their signature chicken and waffles, chilaquiles, heirloom BLT and burgers along with family dinners.

162 N Main St., Sebastopol, gypsy-cafe.com

At Franchetti’s in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy photo)
At Franchetti’s in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy photo)

Franchetti’s Reopens

German meets Italian at this fun eatery offering a small outdoor space, along with takeout and delivery. Best bets include housemade burrata with roasted summer fruits, summer BLT with Flugger’s bacon on ciabatta bread and wood-fired pizzas like their killer rosemary mushroom pie.

1229 North Dutton, Santa Rosa, franchettis.com

‘We’ve Got the Food, They’ve Got the Need’: Petaluma Farm Donates Produce to Restaurants

A once-controversial Petaluma farm known mostly for its cannabis program is stoking a different kind of high these days, doling out pounds upon pounds of free produce to Bay Area chefs.

Gardeners at the Sonoma Hills Farm planted a 3-acre produce garden earlier this summer and have started sharing tomatoes, lettuces, beets, kohlrabi, and other vegetables with chefs in San Francisco and Napa and Sonoma counties.

Dubbed Chefs’ Ranch, the program aims to help chefs and restaurateurs get through financial hardships caused by the coronavirus pandemic.

Every box of goodies is totally free.

Head farmer Aaron Keefer said the program is both an effort to give back to the industry and to introduce Sonoma Hills as a viable source of fresh produce from the North Bay.

“In times like this we have to come together as a community,” said Keefer, whose title technically is vice president of cultivation and production. “We’ve got the food. They’ve got the need. If we can provide a boost to local restaurants by giving them our produce, all of us win.”

Aaron Keefer is distributing produce from Sonoma Hills Farm to local chefs for free. The initiative’s decals are a modern take on victory garden posters. (Courtesy photo)
Victory garden poster, “Will you have a part in victory,” by James Montgomery Flagg, c.1918. (Library of Congress)

If anybody understands how to grow produce, it’s Keefer; he ran the culinary garden at The French Laundry in Yountville for 10 years before taking over at Sonoma Hills in February.

Keefer was hired because of his vision for cannabis—as he described it then, his goal was to “source the best genetics and consistently create the best cannabis.” In addition, Keefer hoped to create a 1-acre produce garden to serve local chefs who could subscribe for regular deliveries.

Then the pandemic changed everything. During initial shelter-in-place orders, Keefer heard horror stories about restaurateurs losing money on take-out and struggling to make ends meet. In recent weeks, he read statistics predicting 85 percent of all restaurants in the region could close permanently because of the pandemic.

Suddenly, it hit him: He had to help.

So Keefer and his staff of three got to work. They expanded the garden to 3 acres. They planted dozens of different types of potatoes, squash, corn, and other veggies.

Kohlrabi at Sonoma Hills Farm in Petaluma. (Courtesy photo)

By early July, their “quarantine garden” started producing in abundance. The farm began packing boxes for a select group of chef friends. Keefer himself engineered most of these deliveries, driving his personal pickup truck to restaurants all over the region. As the program became more formalized, Sonoma Hills invested in specific stickers for the boxes. These decals, a modern take on the victory garden posters of WWI and WWII, depict lady liberty as a female farmer, wearing a face covering.

Chefs certainly have been appreciative of the bounty.

Katina Connaughton, co-owner of Single Thread restaurant in Healdsburg, said she has been incorporating some of the lettuces and tomatoes into dishes the restaurant is donating to Sonoma Family Meal, a local nonprofit that gives free meals to residents in need.

Earlier this month, Connaughton said Single Thread was donating between 200 and 400 meals a day.

“We’ve created this wonderful outlet for surplus in our community and they have a surplus, so we are delighted to be able to incorporate the beautiful produce they’ve been giving us,” said Katina, who oversees operations at Single Thread’s farm in a hidden valley north of Fitch Mountain. “Having them be part of the community is a valuable addition.”

Phil Tessier, chef and partner at PRESS in St. Helena, also has received produce from Chefs’ Ranch, and has incorporated it into meals the restaurant has donated as part of a different philanthropic effort.

This program, named Feed Our Families, is a partnership with other Napa restaurants and the local Boys and Girls Club. Much like Sonoma Family Meal, this program distributes meals to residents in need. It also has raised money to support these families—at last check, the effort had raised more than $200,000.

Tessier said he also planned to use some of the Chefs Ranch produce on his regular restaurant menu.

“It allows us to elevate what we do here,” he said. “They do a lot for us just by getting better product into the restaurant.”

To be clear: Restaurant produce from Chefs’ Ranch at Sonoma Hills Farm won’t always be free. Keefer said that, eventually, he hopes to revert to the original plan and charge restaurants for access to the veggies he grows.

For now, however, there’s no timetable for that switch.

“Eventually this garden has to break even,” he said. “Until then our priority is helping chefs get through this [pandemic] as best we can.”