How One Healdsburg Restaurant is Mastering Socially-Distanced Dining

Day boat scallops with summer squash and tomato confit Wedding at Barndiva
Day boat scallops with summer squash and tomato confit at Barndiva in Healdsburg. (Chris Hardy/For Sonoma Magazine)

We’re all craving visits to our favorite restaurants, without face masks and coronavirus concerns. But, until we enter the post-pandemic era, restaurant owners across the country are working hard to make our dining experience as enjoyable and safe as possible. While we are impressed with the incredible efforts all of our local restaurants continue to make, we particularly enjoyed a recent lunch outing at Barndiva.

The owners of this Healdsburg restaurant, known for its farm-to-fork fare, seem to have thought of everything when adjusting to our new reality.

Reservations for lunch and dinner are required. When you check-in alongside the building — this is the closest you’ll get to stepping inside the restaurant — your hands are spritzed with hand sanitizer. (On our visit, they used sanitizer made by local distilleries Sonoma Brothers Distilling and Sipsong Spirits).

Before you are shown to your table, there’s a temperature check of all diners in your party. This is just the first in a series of steps taken to keep diners and employees healthy.

Menus are printed on cardstock paper, but they’re disposable. A table number and phone number are clearly noted at the top; the Wi-Fi network and password can be found at the bottom. Gone are the days of waiting for the server to appear: all ordering is done via text from diners’ personal cellphones. Patrons can also call the number if they prefer to have a conversation. Communication with restaurant staff during our visit was swift, spirited, and seamless.

“I really just thought about how we could best use the technology we already have to mitigate the interactions between our employees and the general public,” said Lukka Feldman, co-founder and owner of Barndiva.

Perhaps a sign of the times, Feldman says only a handful of diners have arrived empty handed and had to run to their car or nearby hotel room to pick up their cellphone.

“I would say 90 percent of the feedback is overwhelmingly positive,” said Feldman. “Not just for right now, but many have said they prefer this style of service and would like to see this remaining after we are all allowed to roam around unmasked and get back to ‘normal’.”

After the meal, the credit card used to secure your reservation is automatically charged to cover your tab. A 19 percent service charge is added to all bills.

It’s minimal contact at Barndiva, but the exceptional quality of the food and setting remains. Vases still overflow with cut flowers from the Philo farm and, although I didn’t count, I think the trees in the garden now outnumber the tables. Aside from the servers and staff in gloves and masks, having lunch at Barndiva almost felt normal.

Cafe Citti Leaving Kenwood

10/28/2012: D4: PC: Cafe Citti in Kenwood on Wednesday, October 17, 2012. (Jeff Kan Lee/ The Press Democrat)

The owners of Kenwood’s iconic Italian eatery, Cafe Citti, have announced they will be leaving the Sonoma Valley and moving into the former Whole Pie location on Fourth Street in Santa Rosa. Also, the restaurant will end in-house dining, which has been limited to outdoor seating only during the pandemic, and instead focus on take-out at the new location.

Luca and Linda Citti cited a combination of reasons for the move, including the need for renovations to the building they’ve leased for more than 30 years, coronavirus restrictions, power outages and the recent Glass fire that burned through parts of Kenwood.

The family-friendly roadhouse is a longtime favorite of locals, winemakers and ranchers with its approachable Italian classics, stellar Caesar salad and huge sandwiches. In my teens, it was a much-anticipated pit stop on the seemingly interminable drives from Santa Rosa to Sonoma, where we got the tuna-egg-mayo sandwiches I’ll never forget. The restaurant also was featured on Guy Fieri’s “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.”

Here is the full announcement from the owners of Cafe Citti:

“It is with a heavy heart that after 30 years of business in Kenwood, we announce that Cafe Citti will be relocating. Our landlords have made the decision to address the stability of the building and will be making renovations that will take several months. Due to the new restrictions placed upon us during this time of Covid, the annual PSPS shut off‘s, and most recently the Glass fire, we will be leaving the dining portion of our business behind and we will concentrate our focus on continuing with our take-out business at a new location in Santa Rosa. We will be occupying the space next door to Hank’s Creekside at 2792 4th Street in Santa Rosa and we look forward to seeing your friendly faces there. On behalf of ourselves and our staff we would like to thank you for your patronage over the last 30 years and particularly the community of Kenwood for supporting us through thick and thin. Our hearts will always be in Kenwood but we are excited about the next chapter.
Please stay tuned for an opening date.
Luca and Linda Citti”

Sudden Closure for Popular Downtown Santa Rosa Restaurant

Bollywood Bar & Clay Oven on the plaza in downtown Santa Rosa. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Five weeks of smoke and ash proved to be the final blow to downtown Santa Rosa restaurant Bollywood, which marked its last day in business Friday after months of reduced service amid pandemic restrictions.

Owner Sonu Chandi of Chandi Hospitality Group said that despite encouraging patio dining for several months, ongoing prohibitions on indoor dining coupled with an early and prolonged fire season made the Fourth Street restaurant a losing proposition.

“We tried, we really went out of our way, and Bollywood was a successful concept that people loved, but the odds were just against us,” said Chandi. “You can’t eat inside and then you can’t be outside. What do you do?”

The upscale Indian eatery was an homage to the Chandi family’s Indian roots and a restaurant their patriarch had planned to open himself six years ago in Santa Rosa. It had reached its two-year milestone just days before the closure announcement Thursday and was part of a portfolio of downtown restaurants owned by the Chandis, including Stout Brothers on Fourth Street and Mercato Pasta and Produce (formerly Bibi’s Burger Bar) on Third Street which both closed this year.

The Chandis closed County Bench, their previous restaurant in the Fourth Street space, to make way for Bollywood.

Another Chandi venture, Beer Baron, is a joint project with Bay area restaurateurs Harpreet and Manraj Judge and will remain open. Chandi said that property is doing well.

Bollywood joins a growing list of Sonoma County food establishments that have closed since March in a nightmare year for restaurants. Bistro 29, Acre Coffee, Bruno’s and Whole Pie folded in Santa Rosa, Tisza Bistro and Jaded Toad were shuttered in Windsor and Brass Rabbit in Healdsburg, Osteria Stellina in Point Reyes and Whisper Sisters in Petaluma have all closed.

“It remains very challenging for our restaurants to stay open without indoor dining. They’ve been hit again and again this year between the pandemic and the fires and having to constantly shift their business models to accommodate,” said Cadance Allinson, executive director for Santa Rosa’s Downtown District, an affiliate of the Santa Rosa Metro Chamber. “We’re doing everything we can to try and keep them going and encourage our community to support them however they’re most comfortable ― whether dining outdoors or ordering takeout.”

In Sonoma County, restaurants continue to pay sky-high rents ― challenging enough before the pandemic, but untenable for many as public health restrictions continue to curb business and federal disaster loans dry up.

While Chandi declined to discuss specifics about the monthly lease cost for Bollywood, he said that finding creative solutions to rent issues should be a high priority for landlords. “Many more restaurants will close if they don’t,” he said.

On the income side, Bollywood’s revenue was down more than half from 2019, hampered by coronavirus restrictions that began in March and the fires that erupted first in August and continue to burn. Chandi said that last year the restaurant grossed more than $1.48 million. For the same period this year, they grossed around $600,000 — not enough to keep up the lease and cover other overhead, he said.

“We’ve pushed hard to keep it going, and the whole team put so much effort in but we’re dealing with labor challenges and inconsistent revenue,” Chandi said.

Chandi said his family’s hospitality group has sustained itself with its diversified holdings, including eight Mountain Mike’s pizza restaurants in Sonoma and Mendocino County and franchise management of more than a dozen others. Chandi said another Mountain Mike’s is in development in Cloverdale.

The built-in, quick-service delivery model for pizzerias has boosted that business during the pandemic. QSR magazine, a restaurant industry publication, reports that 61% of Americans have ordered pizza delivery during the pandemic.

In comparison, low-margin, high-overhead restaurants with large staffs are a bigger risk. Chandi said the family business expanded into that sector because he has long been a cheerleader for the downtown Santa Rosa restaurant scene and wanted to add to the quality and vibrancy with unique, locally owned eateries.

“With these (downtown) restaurants we’ve gone out of our comfort zone as entrepreneurs because we thought they’d be a great addition to the local restaurant scene, but obviously, these were going to be the most challenged ones,” he said, referring to the pandemic.

The closure of Bollywood is especially emotional for the family. Prior to opening the restaurant, the family had operated the space as County Bench, a high-end California-style restaurant with a large selection of wine. When that concept flagged, the family turned to their roots.

Chandi patriarch Gurcharan Singh Chandi spent nearly two decades as the owner of an Indian restaurant in Walnut Creek and in 2014 planned to open a restaurant called Monsoon in downtown Santa Rosa. The restaurant never panned out, and the family tested the waters with a popular “secret” Indian menu at Bibi’s Burger Bar before opening Bollywood. The Chandis hired high-profile Miami chef Niven Patel to create the original Bollywood menu.

For now, Chandi isn’t saying a final goodbye to the Bollywood concept.

“I envision Bollywood will come back. I truly think we built something special, with a future. When and where time will tell,” he said.

First Look: Flavor Bistro Returns

After closing their Santa Rosa courthouse square restaurant in 2016, Flavor Bistro has opened in Sebastopol. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

In 2016, when Flavor Bistro in downtown Santa Rosa closed, there was a collective groan. Gone was the place your boss took the team after a big project launch. Gone was that perfect not-too-expensive spot to take mom and dad to dinner when they visited, to meet for a first date or escape for date night.

We didn’t appreciate you, Flavor Bistro, until you disappeared from our lives. You were the “something for everyone” place that was never too avant garde or divisive, not too spicy nor bland, reasonably priced and good for kids as well as grandpa’s resolute order of well-done pork chops no matter what else was on the menu.

After you left, we paced around the empty restaurant front for months, seeking signs of life that never came to fruition. We suffered from bomba cravings daily. There were many rumors and false alarms. Most of us finally gave up in hopelessness for nearly almost five years — until news broke that Flavor Bistro was really, really, for sure returning, this time in Sebastopol.

It’s exceedingly rare for a restaurant to reopen and even more rare for it to be just as good. But a much-needed Wine Country miracle seemed to have happened when a pile of takeout meals from Flavor appeared in my kitchen after a long, awful, exhausting day, courtesy of my husband.

Like you, I’ve been mired in exhaustion and burnout for the last six months and craving carbs in a ravenous sort of way. Removing pasta salad, Goldfish crackers or a Bob Evan’s tub of sour cream and chives mashed potatoes out of my claw-like hands is now futile unless there’s something infinitely better — like pillows of butternut squash ravioli in sage brown butter with walnut gremolata or a pork chop in a pool of cream sauce with gratin potatoes or a buttery apple tart with caramel sauce and Flavor Bistro’s famous dessert bombas.

Oh yes, friends, they’re all back. Did I mention the crab cakes with crispy shoestring yams?

Before you get too wrapped up in the menu, however, I do have some bad news. It’s quite abbreviated and some favorites — the Singapore noodles, short ribs, breakfasts and Croque Madame — haven’t made the cut. I don’t doubt that will change as they bring back lunch (and possibly breakfast), but do manage your expectations.

I’m going to mention here, too, the prices, which are part of the charm.

What I especially appreciated with the takeout dishes was the care and thought put into the packaging. I’ve received far too many sloppy, gloppy, drippy, gross bags of mystery food. This time, each entree arrived as neatly put together as it would have on a plate at the restaurant. Oh, Flavor Bistro, we’ve missed you, and you’ve come back to us with your Sonoma County comfort food at just the moment we need you most.

Butternut Ravioli with toasted sage butter, parmigiano, and walnut gremolata from Flavor Bistro in Sebastopol. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Butternut Ravioli with toasted sage butter, parmigiano, and walnut gremolata from Flavor Bistro in Sebastopol. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Best Bets

Sauteed Dungeness Crab Cakes, $10.95: Perfect in every way but one: I hate red bell pepper in my crab cakes, because it overpowers the crab. Your experience may differ, and frankly, it’s not a reason I wouldn’t order them every time.

Salmon Carpaccio, $9.95: House-cured salmon with capers and olive oil is lip-smackingly rich. Piled onto toasted bruschetta with balsamic (which, even a little soggy the next day, held up).

Butternut Ravioli, $10.95/$13.95: I’ve already sung its praises, but it’s the taste of fall with fried sage leaves and nutty brown butter.

Molly’s Chicken, $12.95: It’s not a huge portion, but the slow-cooked chicken with warm, sweet Mediterranean spices, white wine and citrus is worth it. Savoring the pureed potatoes, at least for me, is like tucking into bed on a cold night under a cozy comforter.

Pork chop, $14.95: Nicely braised chop covered with dried fruit compote in a cream sauce.

Caramelized Apple Galette, $6.95: Crispy crust, soft apples and caramel drizzle served with ice cream. Mine melted, but it was even better after a few hours in the freezer.

Dinner only for now, open 4-10 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. Outdoor patio, limited parking, simple online ordering at flavorbistro.com. 7365 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol, 707-861-3642.

Mi Ranchito Opens in Former Bistro 29 Space, Plus More Dining News

Our fish tacos on their way from the new Mi Ranchito restaurant seemed to have stalled out somewhere between the downtown Santa Rosa post office and the fairgrounds. Our Uber Eats “driver” was actually on a bike, and as we watched his GPS movement grind to a stop, we were worried, frankly, that perhaps someone had accosted “Ted,” our delivery person, for those delicious tacos.

Fortunately, within a few minutes, the much-anticipated tacos arrived, still hot and absolutely delicious with their pineapple sauce, chipotle aioli and sweet corn tamal (the world’s tastiest little nugget of sweetened masa). Heavenly hosts, those Baja tacos were good, and they were about to make my list of some of the best tacos in town. Ted was safe as well. Phew.

Mi Ranchito recently opened at the former Bistro 29 in downtown Santa Rosa, the third location for restaurant owners Jaime Rodriguez and Jose Contreras. They also operate in Cotati and Larkfield.

More than a taqueria, Mi Ranchito has a menu that includes most of the usual taqueria suspects — burritos, excellent tacos, tortas and enchiladas. They go a step further with specialty items like fajitas, creamy chipotle chicken breast, molcajete, whole fried fish and ceviche.

Perhaps our favorite dish, along with our tacos, was the cochinita pibil, a slow-roasted citrus-infused pork dish from the Yucatan. Served with cilantro rice, beans, pickled onions and a few microgreens, it too was snatch-worthy, so we’re happy our delivery cyclist got that one to us, too. The only complaint? I think my jamaica agua fresca may have gotten lost along the way. Overall, however, excellent service, flavor and unique delivery for the win.

If you want to try Mi Ranchito in person, they’ve created a darling outdoor patio on Fifth Street near Ausiello’s. Open 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily, 620 Fifth St., Santa Rosa, 707-623-9258.

More dining news: Scowley’s and Grata opening

Once upon a time in Bolinas, there was Scowley’s Burgers, near Smiley’s Saloon and Snarlie’s Deli. In homage to the gone-but-not-forgotten Scowley’s of his youth, Robert Gaustad has opened a new Scowley’s in Petaluma. The soft-opening menu includes a very simple, very focused list of quarter-pound grass-fed burgers from Stemple Creek with toppings like homemade Russian dressing and tomato jam, along with vegan burgers, steamed Casper’s hot dogs and chili dogs. Fries, chopped salad also available. We’re stoked to go in for a try. 229 N. McDowell, Petaluma, scowleys.com, 707-981-7746.

Also Grata, which we mentioned a few weeks ago, will be opening shortly at the former Chinois space in Windsor. The preview menu includes lots of fresh pastas, burrata, chicken parmesan, albacore crudo, fritto misto, halibut piccata, wine-braised short ribs and seared scallops. Stay tuned for more details.

How to Create Your Own Space

How do you create a personal space that reflects you? It’s a question many of us are trying to answer as we hunker down in homes, garage offices, and outdoor oases that are more functional than fanciful.

In the second episode of our three-part virtual series, Women In Conversation at Home, host Amy Gutierrez explores the art of creating space to live, think, and breathe for yourself and those around you. This free event highlights local women making a change in their community.

On Oct. 14, designers Alysia Andriola, Lindsay Wallstrum, and musician Eki Shola, will teach us about honoring physical and mental space and transforming their environment into something magical. Jam-maker Leslie Goodrich gets canning and Duskie Estes has a tasty cocktail recipe. Sonoma Magazine editors Heather Irwin and Sofia Englund will also be joining us in this episode.

Sounds of Healing, Eki Shola

Eki Shola at the 2018 Railroad Square Music Festival. Photo by Philip Pavliger
Eki Shola at the 2018 Railroad Square Music Festival. Photo by Philip Pavliger

A physician turned full-time musician, Eki Shola uses her neo-soul vocals to bring healing and peace to her community.  A wildfire survivor who lost her home — along with three unreleased albums and instruments — in the 2017 Tubbs fire, Shola is no stranger to tragedy and rebuilding. Putting her feelings into music, Shola’s rich, expressive voice won her spots on the NPR Tiny Desk series and invitations to perform in New York and London. A talent to watch, her music reminds us of intimate singer-songwriters like Lauryn Hill and Meshell Ndegeocello. Her prescription for happiness? Music.

All Set, Alysia Andriola

A table setting created by Alysia Andriola.
A table setting created by Alysia Andriola.

Prop styling and set design are as much about creating a mood as they are about showing the objects in their best light. Alysia goes one step further with her projects, capturing the essence of an oyster on ice or a roasted carrot or a fried chicken sandwich so lovely you can’t help but want to reach into the photo to taste it.

As she describes it, she works from scratch to build a universe of the seen and unseen that engages the viewer’s imagination. Find out her secrets to turn life into art, chaos into calm and stories into aspirations.

A Little Help From Your Fronds, Lindsay Wallstrum

Lindsay Wallstrum of Leaf + Lolo creates an indoor escape with plants. (Courtesy of Lindsay Wallstrum/Leaf and Lolo)
Lindsay Wallstrum of Leaf + Lolo creates an indoor escape with plants. Courtesy photo.

The proud owner of more than 100 houseplants and an avid green thumb, interior plant designer Lindsay Wallstrum has made it her mission to incorporate leafy, calming greens in her clients’ work and family spaces. The owner of Leaf + Lolo in Petaluma, Wallstrum recently left a corporate job to follow her passion and offer curbside plant delivery services and wellness-focused interiors inspired by plants. See more of Lindsay’s green interior designs here.

Jam On It, Leslie Goodrich

Leslie Goodrich originally retired in her late 50's but decided she wanted to make money again and opened LaLa's Jam Bar and Urban Farmstand retail location in Petaluma when she was 72. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Leslie Goodrich originally retired in her late 50’s but decided she wanted to make money again and opened LaLa’s Jam Bar and Urban Farmstand.  John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

The only secret to making delicious jam is taking the time to do it in small batches, with love, according to Goodrich. After a lifetime of careers — from real estate to teaching — her passion for making delicious preserves from local fruit has jelled into a full-time job as Chief Fruit Officer of Lala’s Jam Bar and Farmstand in Petaluma.

Bacon Booze, Duskie Estes

Duskie Estes in 2016 (Erik Castro/ Sonoma Magazine)

Chef and non-profit director Duskie Estes loves a good cocktail, especially if it involves bacon. She’ll show the tricks to making a smoky-good beverage you’ll never forget.

Harvest Fair Food Awards Draws New Entrants, Novel Creations

Harvest Fair Award winning chocolate truffle cake from Costeaux. Facebook by permission.

The Sonoma County Harvest Fair Professional Food Competition drew fewer entrants this year for its annual taste-off of hundreds of local products, from bread and desserts to ice cream and olive oil.

But there were newcomers who rubbed shoulders with long-time participants such as Costeaux Bakery of Healdsburg, which took home the Best of Show award in Professional French Bread for its Sour Boule as well as the Sweepstakes Bread award and Best of Show Cake/Pastry for its decadent Truffle Cake.

The contest only drew one entrant in the normally crowded Appetizer & Hors d’Oeuvres category: Tacos El Pelon of Santa Rosa took home four top awards and two double golds, including Best of Show Appetizer for its Cheese Tamal topped with Beef Tongue.

To reflect the pandemic’s required pivots for restaurateurs and caterers, the competition added a new category this year for Shelter in Place (SIP) entrees and side dishes.

“We have tried to keep current with the times,” said Anne Vercelli, competition coordinator. “The chicken enchiladas (from Mangia!) won for the Best of Show (SIP) entree, and a new vendor was creative with pretzels (for Best of Show SIP side dish).”

Patricia Rohrer of Mangia! in Santa Rosa staffs a corporate cafeteria for The Viavi Solutions at 1405 Thunderbolt Way and also offers curbside pick-up for the public out of her catering kitchen there.

The chef, who has been in the food business for 18 years, said her Best of Show SIP entree of Chicken Enchiladas was smothered in two different sauces.

“It’s a little of the green sauce, because that’s what I enjoy, and it has the red sauce as well,” she said. “Then there’s cotija cheese, rotisserie chicken, Jack cheese and cilantro.”

For the competition as a whole, Rohre entered 14 items, most of them in the category of Cakes & Pastries. By winning the most points for her gold and double gold baked goods, she also took home the Sweepstakes award for Cakes & Pastries.

“Sometimes the Best of Show and the Sweepstakes winner are not the same,” Vercelli explained. “But the Sweepstakes means that they did very well on many of the products they entered.”

Costeaux Bakery of Healdsburg won Best of Show Cake/Pastry for its Chocolate Truffle Cake, and Sonoma Sauces and Sonoma Cake Creations of Santa Rosa won Best of Show Decorated Cake for a wedding cake made with a base of Vanilla Cake layered with Mango Pinot Gris Mousse and topped with buttercream frosting.
Rohrer’s gold-medal-winning desserts included a Fresh Fruit Tart and an Apple-Cranberry pie, which she considers her signature baked good.

“The tart is elegant and pretty,” she said. “But if I were to do a throwdown with Bobby Flay, it would be the pie. … It has Grand Marnier, orange zest and dried cranberries. It’s not the brown sugar, sugary apple pie. It’s more sophisticated and Sonoma County.”

Earlier in her career, Rohrner worked for Pearson & Co. in Santa Rosa, where she met her husband. She entered the harvest fair last year, and with this year’s success to buoy her, she plans to enter again next year.

Rohrer opened Mangia! in 2012. To order from her to-go menu of breakfast items, salads and sandwiches, go to mangiacaters.square.site or call 707-494-8563.

Pretzel logic for the pandemic
Clare Hulme of Wooden Petal in Santa Rosa moved to Santa Rosa five years ago from San Francisco, where she ran her own sandwich shop. She started catering here, while exploring the many facets of baking bread. A couple of years ago, she zeroed in on craft pretzels as her target product for pop-ups around the county.

“I was trying to figure out what my next move was,” she said. “I thought the pretzel idea was a good fit for breweries and wineries, and they’re versatile enough to keep me entertained. ”

In February, she started baking out of a small kitchen next to Dierk’s Parkside Cafe in Ssnta Rosa. Then in the midst of the pandemic, all her weddings and parties were canceled.

“I took a deep breath and decided to deliver to everyone who is stuck at home,” she said. “Now people are adding on my soups or my cinnamon pretzels.”

For the Harvest Fair competition, Hulme won Best of Show Shelter-in-Place Side Dish for an assortment of fresh-baked pretzels served with her signature cheese, mustard and spinach dips.

The box includes her three most popular flavors of mini pretzels (2 ounces each): sea salt, everything and cheddar cheese. That’s the same box her loyal customers often order for their families.

“If you want to crack open a few bottles of wine or beer, the adults go for the everything with the spinach dip,” she said. “The kids go for the sea salt.”

In the Bread category, Hulme also won Best of Show Specialty Bread for her Gravenstein Apple Pretzel topped with salted caramel, a seasonal pretzel she makes in a jumbo size (5 ounces).

“The product was excellent,” Vercelli said of the winning pretzel. “It was delicious, and the apples were cooked perfectly.”

Since Gravensteins are out of season now, Hulme started making a Pear Gorgonzola Pretzel with a Honey Drizzle. She soaks the pears first in Sonoma County chardonnay.

Delivery is free with a minimum order of $25, but customers can also opt for curbside pickup at the bakery.

She starts crafting them at 5 a.m. Wednesday and continues for the next five days, boiling, baking and cooling the pretzels. Delivery is from noon to 3 p.m. on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Customers can pick up her pretzels at the bakery from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday and from 10 a.m. to noon Friday through Sunday.

For a complete menu, go to woodenpetal.com. The bakery is located at 404 Santa Rosa Ave., at the blue door to the left of Dierk’s Parkside Cafe.

Awards reveal food trends

In the Individual dessert category, the Best of Show and Best Use of Local Products went to Chai’s Gourmet of Sonoma for a refreshing Lemon Hand Pie. Bert’s Desserts of Petaluma and Society Bakery and Cafe of Sebastopol both won Sweepstakes Dessert awards for the most points overall.

The Best of Show Cookie went to Society Bakery and Cafe of Sebastopol for a Gluten-Free White Chocolate Cherry cookie.

“That was the first time a gluten-free baked product got a big award,” Vercelli said. “The gluten-free products on the table did exceptionally well.”

Best of Show Candy was awarded to Eye Candy Chocolatier of Sebastopol for its Orange Tuaca Truffle, made from an Italian brandy liqueur flavored with vanilla and citrus.

Charcuterie, Deli & Pantry has become one of the largest categories, with 12 entrants vying for three top prizes by entering a wide range of sandwiches, salads, spices, pickles and preserves.

“We had some interesting sandwiches like fried chicken, veggie, tofu and a turkey club wrap,” Vercelli said. “The spices and seasonings are growing every year … and there were savory jams such as Habanero Peach and Pomegranate Pepper.”

Flugger’s Bacon of Santa Rosa snagged Best of Show Charcuterie/Deli with its No Sugar Bacon, which impressed the judges with its flavor and texture.

Chiligods Inc. of Healdsburg won Best of Show Pantry for its “Not So Mean Green” pepper sauce, a mild yet rich hot sauce bursting with flavor.

“The judges thought it was very well balanced,” Vercelli said. “It had heat with the acidity.”

The Sweepstakes prize in Deli/Charcuterie/Pantry went to Society Bakery and Cafe of Sebastopol, which won double gold awards for its Gravenstein Apple Butter, Mixed Berry Jam and Zinful Plum Jam, among other awards.

The growing category of Ice Cream included 23 entries — the most ever in the competition —and a wide variety of flavors, from chai latte and pistachio to Meyer lemon and cardamom.

Straus Family Creamery of Petaluma won Best of Show Ice Cream for its Organic Coffee Ice Cream.

The olive oil category was judged earlier in July, when the oil grown and produced in Sonoma County was a bit more fresh.

Dry Creek Olive Co, of Geyserville won Best of Show Olive Oil for its Mission Blend of California Mission and Manzanita olive varietals. It was just one of 14 olive oils entered by Dry Creek Olive Co. in categories that ranged from delicate and medium to robust, citrus and herb.

In addition to bragging rights, winners get to pick up ribbons and plaques, purchase medals and publicize their awards on their websites.

“I’m going to put my award-winning blurb on there tomorrow,” Rohrer said.

Staff Writer Diane Peterson can be reached at 707-521-5287 or diane.peterson@pressdemocrat.com. On Twitter @dianepete56

Best Restaurants for Comfort Food in Sonoma County 2020

Portuguese Mac & Cheese at Tasca Tasca Portuguese Tapas Restaurant & Wine Bar in Sonoma. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)

Whenever you’re down and out, sick and tired, or simply missing home, comfort food is what picks up the pieces of our lives. Some of us crave mashed potatoes and gravy, others yearn for a bowl of posole or nonna’s ravioli. Whatever makes you feel all warm and cozy inside, we’ve probably found it at a Sonoma County restaurant. Click through the above gallery for details.

Did we miss your fave? Let us know in the comments below.

Sonoma and Napa Wineries That Have Been Damaged or Destroyed by the Glass Fire

Winery workers Carlos Perez, left, and Jose Juan Perez extinguish hotspots at Castello di Amorosa, Monday, Sept. 28, 2020, in Calistoga, Calif., which was damaged in the Glass Fire. (AP Photo/Noah Berger)

This list of Sonoma and Napa wineries affected by the Glass fire will be updated as necessary. Email us with confirmed reports of damage. Updated on Tuesday, Oct. 6, 4:00 p.m. 

For the third time in four years, wildfires have wreaked havoc in Wine Country, with the still-burning Glass fire destroying or damaging some 600 homes in Sonoma and Napa counties and scarring more than 66,000 acres as of Oct. 6. Wineries and vineyards have not been immune.

Unlike northern Sonoma County’s Kincade fire in 2019 and the Tubbs and Nuns fires in 2017, the Glass fire has been unthinkably destructive to wineries in Napa Valley, where at least two dozen are believed to have been leveled or seriously damaged in the northern part of the valley, between Calistoga and St. Helena, and on the western flank of Howell Mountain. Despite some vineyard scorching, Sonoma winemakers, in the Valley of the Moon region, have reported relatively little damage to their facilities.

The list of Napa wineries engulfed by the Glass fire is a who’s who of ”up valley” cabernet sauvignon producers, among them Burgess, Cain, Hourglass, Newton and Sherwin Family, plus the Michelin three-star restaurant at Meadowood Resort.

The fire, which started Sept. 27, tore through mostly remote, rugged hillsides at the height of the red-grape harvest, with power outages, downed trees and utility poles, roadblocks and spotty cell phone service hampering firefighting and winemaking efforts.

Even 10 days after the fire erupted, some northern Napa Valley vintners had been unable to access their properties and fully assess their losses. Some are likely to produce no cabernet in 2020, although the white-grape crush had been largely completed before the fire. Sparkling wine producer Schramsberg had already finished its chardonnay and pinot noir harvest.

Wildfires burn in mysterious ways. Despite their proximity to fire-damaged wineries and vineyards, Napa Valley superstar producers Duckhorn Vineyards, Rombauer, Smith-Madrone and Spottswoode Estate were among those that emerged relatively unscathed. Pride Mountain Vineyards on Spring Mountain, which straddles Napa and Sonoma counties, saw forest and chaparral burn around the property, although the vines and winery were untouched.

These wine properties are known to have been damaged or destroyed by the Glass fire:

Sonoma County

Ledson Winery: Steve Ledson’s “castle” winery on Highway 12, between Santa Rosa and Kenwood, made national news in October 2017 via dramatic photographs of helicopter and airplane drops of water and fire retardant on the burning hill behind the winery – which was saved.

The Glass fire came close enough for Ledson to bring a four-man crew and a water truck to his property the night of Sept. 27. The crew cut lines on three sides of the property, the highway protecting the fourth side. By the next morning, three sides were scorched and a home east of the winery was burned, yet the castle was not harmed.

“We were up late last night picking and we heard the fire was coming closer,” Ledson told The Press Democrat. “I brought the water truck, filled it and sure enough, everything was in flames. Without this (the truck) we would have been screwed.”

St. Francis Winery & Vineyards: Crews were picking grapes on this east Santa Rosa winery estate the night of Sept. 27 when flames drew near. Evacuation was ordered, so harvesters and co-winemaker Chris Louton and his team dropped what they were doing and left the property.

“The fire burned to our property line on Pythian Road,” said Louton’s co-winemaker, Katie Madigan, who had left for the day. “We’re still assessing the damage,” she said on Sept. 30, “but all of our structures are fine.

“It was similar to what we experienced in 2017, when the (Nuns) fire burned behind the winery. We feel we were all too prepared for this one, having gone through the horrific 2017 fire. Permits from the (Sonoma County) ag commissioner allowed us to get back on the property and continue fermentation management and picking.”

Westwood Estate Wines/Annadel Gap Vineyard: Westwood’s 40-acre vineyard in eastern Santa Rosa, across from Oakmont on the north side of Highway 101, suffered damage to some of its vines, according to estate director Andrew Tomassini. (The damage is still being assessed). Planted mostly to red grapes, including pinot noir and Rhone varieties, Annadel Gap had harvested approximately 20% of its grapes prior to the fire, which ended the season, Tomassini said.

Westwood’s tasting room in downtown Sonoma and its Brasswood winemaking facility in St. Helena were safe; no structures were on the vineyard property. The damaged vines could regenerate next spring, and replanting is also a possibility, Tomassini said.

Napa County

Aratas Wine: Stephanie Douglas, her husband, John Chohany, and John’s brother, Mickey Chohany, own this Calistoga vineyard, which specializes in petite sirah and with lesser amounts of sauvignon blanc and rosé. Douglas wrote on the Aratas website: “Cal Fire’s brave, but battle-weary firefighters fought relentlessly for 24 hours while ‘Big Bertha,’ the starship 747 super fighter dropped retardant from overhead. The fires of 2017 still burn in our memory. This time, the intolerable heat and erratic winds were too much to harness.” Douglas lost her bungalow and “treehouse,” where guests were entertained. The winery survived.

Barnett Vineyards: Another prominent winery on Spring Mountain, Barnett – through the Spring Mountain District AVA organization — confirmed that it sustained damage to an upper deck, storage shed and vineyards, yet the winery and residence were successfully protected.

Behrens Family Winery: Les Behrens and Lisa Drinkward, proprietors of this Spring Mountain winery, explained their loss on Facebook: “As you have probably heard, our sweet little winery building, guest apartment and beloved Westcraft Trailer were burned to the ground in the Glass fire on Monday morning. Our new tasting room and crush pad/tank barn are still standing and the chickens and their coop have survived.”

Bergman Family Vineyards: Owner Pam Bergman posted on Facebook on Oct. 4 that the fire on her Spring Mountain estate had turned around and was burning on itself, a pattern she hoped would continue over the next few days. “Spot fires are still burning between our houses and the neighbors below, but within the containment lines,” she posted. The previous day, the estate confirmed it had lost more than 10 of its 40 vineyard acres.

Burgess Cellars: Located in Deer Park, between St. Helena and Angwin, Burgess has been a tried-and-true maker of mountain-grown cabernet sauvignon. Founded by Tom Burgess in 1972 at the former Souverain winery site, it was acquired by the Lawrence family and Carlton McCoy, also owners of Heitz Cellar. The sale closed this summer, and now the winery is in ashes; the vineyard is said to have suffered some damage, but is not destroyed.

Cain Vineyard & Winery: All except the grapevines were lost to fire at this Spring Mountain winery at the end of Langtry Road, high above St. Helena. Longtime winemaker Chris Howell and his wife, Katie Lazar, also lost their home, as did two other families. The 2019 and 2020 vintage wines stored on the remote property were destroyed, though older vintages – including the just-released, flagship 2016 Cain Five Bordeaux-style blend, are held off-site.

Castello di Amorosa: Owner Dario Sattui’s replication of a Medieval Tuscan castle, complete with moat and dungeon, suffered the loss of its “farmhouse,” which housed offices, a fermentation room, the bottling line and bottle storage. The tourist-magnet castle itself, located up a steep driveway west from Highway 128, was untouched, though the sight of charred and broken bottles on the farmhouse site was of little comfort to Sattui, who spent years – and likely millions – building the castello.

Chateau Boswell: The destruction of this 45-year-old winery on the Silverado Trail, east of St. Helena, was one of the first looks TV viewers had at the horror the Glass fire created in Napa Valley. All that remains of Susan Boswell’s boutique, cabernet-centric winery is its stone facade.

Dutch Henry Winery: A photograph taken by winemaker Scott Chafen, published online by the San Francisco Chronicle, shows what appears to be major damage to this 2,000-case-per-year winery on the Silverado Trail near Calistoga.

Fairwinds Estate Winery: On the Silverado Trail in Calistoga, Fairwinds – formerly Cuvaison Winery – is owned by Brandon Chaney and Anthony Zabit. On Sept. 29, The Press Democrat reported the winery had sustained “significant damage,” and later, the company posted this on Facebook: “It has been a tough week for Fairwinds and so many of our family, friends, employees and neighbors here in Napa Valley … We stand together to rebuild and support each other during this difficult time.”

Fantesca Estate: The Spring Mountain winery lost equipment and its outdoor tasting deck, but the vineyard and winery are fine, according to co-owner Duane Hoff.

Hourglass Winery: Early reports had owner Jeff Smith losing his Calistoga winery, but winemaker Tony Biagi told Wine Spectator magazine: “Unfortunately, we lost two structures on the property that were dear to our hearts,” he said. “However, we are blessed to state that the winery made it through relatively unscathed from our vantage point.”

Hunnicutt Wines: “We lost the Stafford house, our landscaping is toast (literally), but most of our outdoor equipment made it through the firestorm,” the St. Helena winery posted on Facebook on Sept. 29. Hunnicutt is located on the Silverado Trail, next door to Chateau Boswell; Boswell was demolished by the fire.

Juslyn Vineyards: The house and guesthouse of owners Perry and Carolyn Butler were spared, though the couple lost 50% of their Spring Mountain vineyard and forested land, and all of their outbuildings.

Keenan Vineyards: President Michael Keenan posted on the Spring Mountain District AVA website on Oct. 3 that his Spring Mountain property “somehow miraculously made it through this hellish week intact and in relatively good spirits.” There was some minor damage to the vines.

Meadowood Resort: It’s not a winery, yet it’s been home away from home for Napa winemakers and grapegrowers, and oenophiles from around the world. Its crown jewel, The Restaurant at Meadowood, was gutted in the Glass fire, which also claimed the more casual Grille and golf pro shop. Chef Christopher Kostow earned three Michelin stars at the restaurant – the highest rating possible – and the wine list was one of the most extensive in the country.

Merus Wines: Mark Herold co-founded Merus in his Napa garage, later selling the brand to Foley Family Wines. In 2008, Foley purchased the Venge Vineyards winery on Crystal Springs Road above St. Helena and made it the new home of Merus. On Facebook, Merus stated: “Despite suffering some damage throughout the estate, our main building, the heart and soul of our operations, is still standing.”

Newton Vineyard: Su Ha Newton and the late Sir Peter Newton founded the stylish vineyard property in 1977, near the base of Spring Mountain. Renovated in 2019, Newton was more glorious than ever, with pagodas, fountains, precisely manicured gardens and as always, outstanding chardonnays and cabernet sauvignons. But the Glass fire undid much of the new beauty, the biggest loss likely the new pagoda-like building that housed the fermentation rooms and laboratory.

Paloma Vineyard: Its mountain merlot hit it big with critics a decade ago, and the Spring Mountain site experienced burns on all sides of its fence line last week, according to the Spring Mountain District website. Actual damage could not be determined at publication time.

Phifer Pavitt: Co-owner Suzanne Phifer Pavitt was seen on TV newscasts surveying the damage she and her husband, Shane Pavitt, suffered at their winery on the Silverado Trail near Calistoga. “The inferno swept through our property and burned all 23 acres,” she later told Wine Spectator magazine. Their house sustained damage but is still intact.

Ritchie Creek Vineyards: This tiny Spring Mountain winery and home of owners Andre and Tina Minor was destroyed, with significant damage done to their vineyard. In a further blow, their stored wines, including library vintages, were also claimed by flames.

Sherwin Family Vineyards: Another Spring Mountain winery, Sherwin posted this on its website: “We are heartbroken to share the news that our winery burned to the ground … But, rest assured, we will rebuild and be there for you. We still have wine and we are still in business, so all is not lost.”

Spring Mountain Vineyard: The main winery building, the photo-worthy Miravalle mansion (you saw it if you watched “Falcon Crest” on TV) and onsite Chateau Chevalier winery, built in 1891, were spared, although vineyard manager Ron Rosenbrand’s house burned, as did the nearby La Perla winery, established in 1873.

Stony Hill Vineyard: Fred and Eleanor McCrea planted grapevines on Spring Mountain in 1948, in what was then a wild and wooly place to make chardonnay, riesling and gewurztraminer. Today Stony Hill remains the gem it’s been ever since, in need of mere polishing after the fire. “In the end, we lost trees, shrubs, grasses, quite a bit of peripheral infrastructure, and one tractor,” the winery said. “But the things that truly matter: the people, the vines and the wines are all intact.”

York Creek Vineyards: Fritz Maytag, founder of Anchor Brewing Co. in San Francisco, also created, less famously, York Creek Vineyards, on Spring Mountain. The Spring Mountain District website reported that Maytag lost two houses on the outer extremes of the ranch, plus a barn and all of its equipment. “Most buildings survived,” the website stated.

How to Help People Impacted by the Glass Fire

As firefighters continue to battle the Glass fire, residents in Sonoma and Napa counties are grappling with a range of difficult experiences and emotions – displacement, fear, anxiety, stress – compounded by the pandemic and the emotional toll of living through a series of wildfires.

At the peak of danger during this most recent fire, 50,000 residents were evacuated in Sonoma County. As of Thursday, at least 36 homes had been reported destroyed in Sonoma County, and 107 in Napa. 21 people have been injured. 56,781 acres have burned.

Many people are currently in need of support and, for those not immediately affected by the fires, volunteering can be a good way to take your mind off your own worries while aiding recovery efforts.

The Sonoma County Emergency Preparedness website is a good starting point for anyone wishing to help out or for those in need of support. You can also dial 211 or text your zip code to 898-211 to get help for yourself or someone else in need (available 24 hours a day, seven days a week). The Volunteer Center of Sonoma County also lists a number of ways to donate time and money on their website.

Listed below are a few more ways to help others (and also access services if you are in need of help).

Provide Emotional Support, Shelter

The effects of repeat trauma are well documented – the recurrence of wildfires in this area can certainly have a compounding impact.

It may seem obvious, but being a good friend and checking in with those around you can be a very valuable way of providing help while supporting the emotional wellbeing of the community.

If a friend or family member has been evacuated, or lost their homes, “just” listening is sometimes the best support that you can offer. Carolynn Spezza, who lost her home in the 2015 Valley Fire, provides a list of suggestions on how to help a friend who has lost their home in a fire.

Due to COVID-19 restrictions, evacuation centers have more limited capacity. If you have a vacation home or enough space in your own home to safely host other people, consider inviting friends who have been forced to evacuate. Offering shelter for someone’s pets can also help that person find temporary accommodations more easily.

Keep in mind that, if someone you know is experiencing trauma-related distress, they should seek professional help through their healthcare provider or other licensed practitioners. 211 Sonoma County provides free, confidential, 24/7 information and referral service and also has an online database. Dial 2-1-1 or text your zip code to 898-211 for more help.

The Sonoma County Warm Line also provides free and confidential support if you or someone you know is experiencing emotional stress and anxiety. The line is available seven days a week from 10 a.m. – 7 p.m. Call 707-565-2652. Service is available in English and Spanish with telephone translation available for other languages.

Help out from home, or by delivering food

Looking for ways to help out but concerned about the coronavirus? For homebound seniors, a daily phone call can make a big difference. This important need can be fulfilled from your home. Petaluma People Services’ You are Not Alone program is looking for volunteers to make those calls (to learn more about the program, email notalone@petalumapeople.org).

Providing home food delivery is another way to help, while keeping potential exposure to the coronavirus low. The Council on Aging’s Meals on Wheels program is looking for volunteers.

Consider making a donation

Sonoma County Emergency Management Director Christoper Godley explains that one of the best ways to help others and support recovery efforts is to donate “cold hard cash.”

“That energy that cash represents allows people to start anew investing in their lives and get moving down the road to recovery,” said Godley.

The Sonoma County Emergency and Preparedness website recommends organizations for your monetary gifts, including Undocu Fund, Community Foundation Resilience Fund, and Sonoma County Fire Relief.

Gift cards are also being sought by various organizations to purchase supplies.

For more information on how to give visit: socoemergency.org/emergency/how-to-help.

FEMA aid is now available for Sonoma and Napa County wildfire survivors. The Federal Emergency Management Association is accepting applications for grants to cover repair costs, rent and medical expenses not covered by insurance. Read more here.

Help feed people

The Redwood Empire Food Bank has been feeding the local community since 1987. They respond to the immediate needs of people “through the provision of healthy food and nutrition education,” and pursue long term solutions to food insecurity. The food bank has been involved in relief efforts during previous natural disasters – through fires and floods – and is now working hard to provide food to a growing number of people facing food insecurity during the pandemic and the most recent fires.

Consider volunteering for the food bank which needs help sorting items into grocery boxes and distributing them. Much-needed shelf-stable food can be donated to one of these sites, and cash donations can be made here. A $10 donation can provide meals to 20 seniors.

Redwood Empire Food Bank, 3990 Brickway Blvd., Santa Rosa, 707-523-7900, refb.org

Sonoma Family Meal was founded during the 2017 October fires by Sonoma Media Investment (SMI) dining editor Heather Irwin. (SMI owns Sonoma Magazine). Since then, the nonprofit has served more than 400,000 chef-made meals to people affected by disasters like wildfires and floods, and, more recently, the pandemic. The organization works directly with local non-profits, government agencies and first-responders to identify those in most need.

Consider volunteering for Sonoma Family Meal, or make a donation.

Support the local economy

Wildfires, now coupled with the pandemic, have delivered a considerable blow to local restaurants, wineries, retail stores and other businesses. Many can use all the support they can get. Giving evacuees and friends impacted by the fires gift cards has multiple benefits: it’s a kind gesture for a friend in need, and it supports a business and the local economy. Keep in mind to ask the person what they need and where they would like to shop, and give them a gift card to a suitable business.

Help a friend with dinner by getting them a fantastic take-out meal from their favorite restaurant. Or offer someone a gift pack of little luxuries, like locally-made hand lotions or savory snacks. Give stores business right now by starting your holiday shopping early and encouraging others who are able to do the same.

Remember, locally-owned businesses reinvest their revenue in the local economy to a greater extent than their big-box counterparts. If you’ve ever thought about making “shop local” a priority, now is the time.