After Three Decades, Cafe Citti Leaves Kenwood and Reinvents Itself as a Santa Rosa Takeout Spot

Prosciutto di Parma and housemade mozzarella on housemade focaccia served alongside Caesar salad at Citti Cafe in Kenwood. (Chris Hardy / Sonoma Magazine)

After 30 years at their iconic Kenwood roadhouse, the owners of Cafe Citti have officially closed their restaurant, but their roast chicken, lasagna and tuna egg sandwiches will live on at a new location in Santa Rosa later this fall.

“We knew this day was coming,” said Linda Citti, who announced the decision on social media Tuesday. Chef-owners Luca and Linda Citti cited a combination of reasons for the move including the need for extensive renovations to the building they leased for more than 30 years, coronavirus restrictions, power outages and the recent Glass fire that burned through parts of Kenwood.

The Cittis plan to open a takeout-only business on Fourth Street in east Santa Rosa in late November in the quirky, 900-square-foot former Whole Pie location next to Hank’s Creekside Restaurant.

“We wanted something that had the charm and funkiness of what we’ve always been. We’re not a strip mall kind of place and we’re not a fancy place. We both immediately got a good vibe (about the space),” Linda Citti said.

The family-friendly roadhouse is a longtime favorite of locals from Kenwood and Oakmont, winemakers, ranchers and Sonoma Valley tourists with its approachable Italian and American classics.

In 2010, the restaurant was featured on Guy Fieri’s “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives” with Fieri saying, “If you have never visited the Sonoma Valley, then this is the place to dine at.”

Since March, Cafe Citti has only offered takeout to their loyal following, with a slightly reduced menu. Like many restaurants, it was forced to cut staff from 25 employees to just six. With pandemic restrictions continuing, the usual brisk spring and summer business the couple expected to sustain them through a planned construction closure this winter didn’t pan out.

“Before the pandemic we were in talks about continuing at our location and riding out the seven to 10 months of construction. We were looking forward to having a new beautiful space and working there for another however many years. Then the pandemic hit, and this time that we were supposed to be socking away money and preparing for the shutdown,” Citti said.

The recent fires were the last straw, forcing the cafe to close once again for several days as the Glass fire raged nearby. A significant amount of food spoiled at the restaurant as power remained out in the area.

“We’ve been evacuated every time, impacted by power outages every time. It’s just always something and the way that the whole restaurant world will change post-pandemic, we just can’t go back,” Citti said.

The couple briefly contemplated leaving the restaurant business and moving back to Italy after a harrowing evacuation from their Skyhawk home at the start of the Glass fire.
“We thought, maybe we’re just done and we need to find something else, but everything we went back to involved food. This is what we love, what we are, and what we have been for 30 years,” she said.

Still weighing their options and without a signed lease on the new location, news of the restaurant’s potential fate leaked out on a neighborhood social media platform early this week, Citti said, forcing her hand to announce the news that the restaurant would remain closed permanently.

“We’ve been in our world of agony trying to figure out what we were going to do next, and we weren’t quite ready (for the announcement), but someone outed us on Nextdoor and the floodgates were open,” said Linda.

The response was a flood of emails, phone calls and messages from well-wishers.

“The incredible response gave me the strength to get through these last few days,” said Linda. “I read all these comments (on our social media) and I’m just in tears. It’s so affirming. You think, wow, working our asses off 14 hours a day, seven days a week made a difference for somebody. When you sit back and have this opportunity to see what Cafe Citti has meant to so many people, this is as good as it gets.

“People have been generous and supportive through this. The only reason we’re still here is all the support we’ve had. We’re sad we didn’t get to say goodbye to everyone in person,” she said.

As the new Cafe Citti takes shape over the next few months, Linda Citti hopes her regulars will understand that they’re mourning the loss of their old restaurant but excited to move forward.

“Just be patient with us,” she said, “we’re starting all over again and we’re not as young as we used to be.”

Petaluma Photographer Turns Flowers Into Instagram Art

Petaluma photographer Susie Dranit likes to keep things simple. Using only her camera, a black foam board backdrop and the light that shines through the windows of her home, she captures the natural beauty of her models — dahlias, peonies and roses that strike a pose for her Instagram account @bobandmarge.

Dranit, whose day job is as a contract manager for a national engineering firm, has always been a “visual person,” able to see and appreciate details others might overlook, she said.

“I think that I was just born that way,” Dranit said. “I can remember being a little girl and seeing things that maybe most kids wouldn’t see.”

Dranit took up photography five years ago. Working remotely at home, she noticed the beautiful light in her house and wanted to capture it. That prompted her to join a local MeetUp group focused on smartphone photography.

“It was perfect for me, an average person just wanting to learn what else I could do with my iPhone,” she said. “That inspired me to dig a little deeper.”

After three years of photographing with her phone, Dranit decided it was time to move up to the next level. She bought a used Nikon camera and started to share her photos on her Instagram account (the handle is a nod to Dranit’s artistic parents).

An avid gardener, she sources flowers for her photographs from her backyard and, during winter, from local flower shops and Trader Joe’s.

“I love that the same flower can look different with time,” she said. Peonies she photographed over the course of five days, for example, transitioned from a flamingo pink to deep pink to a pale peachy blush.

Her simple, spare compositions call to mind Robert Mapplethorpe’s photographs of flowers or Geogia O’Keeffe’s oil paintings. With a keen eye for natural light, Dranit captures the delicate details of her subjects — the thin ridges in a petal, subtle changes in shade and color, the elegance and the tiny flaws. She takes inspiration from Dutch masters of light like Rembrandt and said that museum visits in Amsterdam and Paris piqued her interest in a darker style.

“I remember standing in front of a Dutch master painting and seeing how they painted with such incredible use of light. That fascinated me,” she said. “You stand a foot away and think, is this not real?”

For aspiring photographers, Dranit advises sticking to the old adage “practice makes perfect” and being patient.

“You just get better as you do things more, and it takes time,” she said. In the meantime, for people who want to take their own beautiful photos in natural light, Dranit offers these practical tips.

6 tips for aspiring photographers

Avoid mid-day light which gives a “washed out” look without depth. Early morning or late afternoon light often casts a soft glow that creates more interest.

Experiment with the direction of light on a subject. It can be from the front, back, above, below or the sides. Each will provide a different look. Dranit said she prefers light from the side (called chiaroscuro) to create the perception of depth.

Take lots of photos, often. Practice really can improve your eye for composition, light and creating a mood in an image.

Camera phones take great photos. They are a good way to practice and develop your eye. Instagram galleries are filled with incredible photos taken with camera phones.

Focus on one subject, say an apple on your kitchen counter, and take lots of photos of it. Photograph it at slightly different angles and different times of the day in natural light. Study the differences, which will help you hone in on a style you like.

Browse Instagram and follow galleries with photos you like. Think about what it is you like about different photographers’ styles. This can help you develop your own style.

To view more of Susie Dranit’s photographs, follow her on Instagram @bobandmarge.

The Reckoning: How Five Weeks of Turmoil Rocked Healdsburg to The Core

Protesters cover the both lanes of Healdsburg Ave. in Healdsburg, Thursday, June 11, 2020. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat) 2020

The city of Healdsburg is often cast as the symbol of Wine Country, with a culture of hospitality revolving around its scenic vineyards and upscale dining. But this summer, its residents learned that narrow-mindedness and racism can fester— even in a diverse community that has always considered itself progressive.

Writer Austin Murphy looks back at five weeks of turmoil that rocked the town to the core and the ways residents are trying to move forward.


If the brochures are correct and Healdsburg is the heart of Wine Country, the heart of that heart is the town’s park-like plaza, an Elysian oasis of redwoods, cedars and Canary Island date palms.

The centerpiece of the plaza is a handsome, copper-roofed gazebo that served, before Covid-19, as a bandstand for Healdsburg’s “Tuesdays in the Plaza” summer concert series. While there were no concerts in the square this summer, there was plenty of drama.

On the afternoon of June 11, strings were tied between the gazebo’s pillars. From those strings hung scores of white rectangles, like little sheets on a clothesline.

Were they Tibetan prayer flags? Apartment listings? Missing pet alerts?

They were, in fact, a city’s dirty laundry, fluttering in the breeze for all to see.

This was 17 days after George Floyd had been killed in the custody of Minneapolis police. The civil unrest sparked by his death convulsed the nation and found its way to this city of 12,000, where 30% of the residents identify as Hispanic. The words on those pieces of paper in the gazebo served as pointed reminders that, yes, racism can flourish even in picturesque towns that consider themselves progressive.

“I don’t want my kid in that Mexican teacher’s class” – statement from white parent to principal during meeting with Latina educator “I grew up in Healdsburg and sometime around 6th or 7th grade a pickup truck with three high school students drove past me as I’m walking down the street and yell ‘F—-g n—–!’” “Go back to where you came from.”

“This white girl told me I would look ‘prettier’ if I straightened my hair more often. F— your Eurocentric beauty standards.”

These accounts of racism were part of an art installation conceived by Cristal Perez and Lupe Lopez, Latinx women and recent graduates of Healdsburg High School. Perez, 20, is a criminology and criminal justice major at Sonoma State University. Lopez, 22, recently earned her degree in sociology at San Francisco State University, and is now a graduate student at Columbia University.

Both were frustrated and disheartened by what Lopez described as “tone-deaf ” comments made by members of the city council in early June. So they cast a wide net on social media, inviting people to share their experiences of racism in Healdsburg.

They got over a hundred. “It was very overwhelming,” said Perez. Those searing responses, on public display in the plaza, shed uncomfortable light on what truly stood at the center of the town. The fragments of injustice blew on slips in the breeze, painful testaments to incidents of white privilege and insidious racism, urging Healdsburg to examine itself.

The five weeks that shook Healdsburg to its core came to a head the night Perez and Lopez debuted their display on the plaza. A protest was planned to coincide with the installation, and hundreds of people showed up. By the end of the evening, what began as a civil exercise had boiled over into a most un-Healdsburg-like display of shouts, recriminations, and anger directed at the town’s 64-year-old mayor, Leah Gold.

Ten days earlier, in the third hour of a Zoom meeting of the city council, Gold had casually dismissed a fellow council member’s attempt to schedule a discussion of the Healdsburg Police Department’s use-of-force policies.

His rebuffed request came as communities across the nation questioned themselves following Floyd’s death. Black Lives Matter protests were sweeping the country. Gold and the four council members who had agreed with her quickly reaped the whirlwind, finding themselves castigated on social media for their alleged blindness to systemic racism and their own white privilege.

That night, Gold stood in the plaza, attempting to explain herself to vocal critics – many of whom had, presumably, voted for her. Now they drowned out the movement’s familiar chant of “No justice, no peace!” with calls for Gold’s resignation.

“I’ve lived here all my life,” said Tomas Morales, one of several people of color who confronted the mayor that evening. “For somebody to be so blind and be in a leadership role of this town is just ridiculous.”

It mattered little to Morales and the growing cohort of Gold critics that the mayor never claimed that racism does not exist in Healdsburg. In the Zoom meeting, she was clearly addressing the narrower subject of the town’s police department.

The protestors were angry, and now they’d found a visible – some would say convenient – target for that anger.

“This town was built on the backs of Mexican farmers,” Morales added. “It’s one thing for people to know us as this little wine destination, tourist, yuppie town, but it’s another for our leadership to…be so blind to what’s always been here.”

Strong-willed and proud of the progressive record she’d compiled during her two terms on the council, Gold underestimated the depth of public outrage. “What’s happening in America right now,” said Ariel Kelley, the CEO of Corazon Healdsburg, who is running for city council in November’s election, “is that a lot of young people are saying ‘Enough is enough. This is our moment.’”

For misjudging that moment, Gold was heaped with criticism that showed no signs of abating. And so, on June 16, the mayor announced that she would resign, to better enable the council “to address these issues of racial equity.” Seeing that she had become “a target,” Gold explained, “they may be more effective if I’m out of the picture.”

“I don’t really need this in my life,” she added, in a less guarded moment.

While Evelyn Mitchell succeeded her as mayor, Gold’s place on the city council was taken by the businessman Ozzy Jimenez, who became just the third Latino council member in the city’s 153-year history, the first in nearly three decades.

“That’s unacceptable,” said State Senator Mike McGuire, D-Healdsburg, of the city’s glaring lack of people of color in positions of power. He described the appointment of Jimenez as “a game changer.”

A month after Gold’s resignation, McGuire did not exactly leap to her defense when given the chance.

“Look, I’ve worked with Leah Gold for many years, and I’m grateful for her dedication to the community,” said McGuire, who grew up in the city, whose family has been there for three generations, and who was once Healdsburg’s youngest mayor.

“But it’s clear there is systemic racism in Healdsburg.”

“This community, like thousands of small towns and big cities across America, is demanding change. And it’s change that has taken too damn long to take hold.

“The reason this has had such lasting power,” he said, referring to the Black Lives Matter movement, “is that it’s coming from the streets up.”The protests have sent “the clear message that we can no longer accept systemic racism and politics as usual.

“We can’t miss this moment. We can’t miss it.”

The initial controversy started at a run-of-the-mill city council meeting on June 1. Council member Joe Naujokas, invited to chime in on “matters of interest,” shared that that he’d been getting feedback from constituents on “the events in Minnesota.”

Floyd had died six days earlier. Demonstrations were sweeping the nation and the Bay Area. Fifteen miles down Highway 101, police were bracing for a third straight night of protests in Santa Rosa, which was under an 8 p.m. curfew. “Given the circumstances we’re seeing around the country,” Naujokas told his colleagues, “a full conversation” on the Healdsburg Police Department’s use-of-force policies seemed in order. He asked that discussion to be put on the agenda for the council’s next meeting.

“Honest to God,” said Naujokas, six weeks and one mayor later, “I thought it was going to be a no-brainer.”

His idea was met, instead, with a resounding no. Gold gave his idea the thumbs-down, describing her colleague’s proposed discussion as ‘a solution looking for a problem,” and citing the fact that “we don’t have that particular problem in Healdsburg.” Nor were the council’s other members in favor.

Over the past six years, the Healdsburg police had logged just 65 use-of-force incidents, with no shootings or deaths. The mayor was right in pointing out that the town didn’t have a problem with police violence.

She was wrong in surmising that there would be little interest in the conversation Naujokas was trying to kick-start. While it may not have a police problem, Healdsburg does have a racism problem – like most other cities and towns across America. Naujokas, a software engineer who’s lived in Healdsburg for 27 years, knew that. His hope, in calling for a formal discussion of police practices, was that “the community would show up,” and that the subject of racism in Healdsburg would be raised. “People would see that these issues impact a lot of our citizens, and that we need to keep the conversation going.”

It didn’t happen the way he’d planned, but Naujokas definitely got the conversation he wanted. And then some.

Detractors quickly pounced on Gold’s plea, in a June 3 Facebook post, that residents not attend a protest scheduled for following evening in Healdsburg’s downtown plaza – a demonstration that drew more than 600 people and was widely praised for its peaceful nature.

Gold gave further grist to her critics with her tart response to Elena Halvorsen, a local photographer who had emailed to express her displeasure with the mayor’s negative response to Naujokas. “I grew up in Healdsburg and am grateful that I have the opportunity to raise my children here,” wrote Halvorsen. “To say that racism is not a problem in Healdsburg is putting your white privilege on full display.”

In her defense, Gold never said systemic racism does not exist in Healdsburg. But that mattered little as the mayor came to represent something beyond what she had said.

After castigating the mayor for her blindness to “structural racism,” and for silencing “the experiences of thousands of your constituents,” Halvorsen challenged Gold to “examine your own white privilege and racial bias.”

The mayor’s reply was more succinct: “I really don’t know how to respond to your misplaced outrage and the hyperbolic tone of your letter. Perhaps after you have cooled down a bit we can arrange a civil phone conversation.”

That exchange was prominently featured in a petition, posted on Change.org, calling for Gold to resign. Just over one week and 1,800 signatures later, she did.

“I was snippy with her, and I regret that,” said Gold, in mid-July, of her response to Halvorsen. “It wasn’t appropriate.” Elected officials “need to have an endless supply of patience, and at that moment I was out of it.”

The ex-mayor is more combative than contrite, in retirement. Asked if she was sad, Gold replied, “I am sad – for representative democracy.”

Less than a week after the death of George Floyd, she and her fellow council-members were not fully aware of the breadth and depth and urgency of the Black Lives Matter movement.

“We’re not professional politicians,” she said, pointing out that council members essentially volunteer their time. “We get $135 a month. That’s our take-home, honey.”

When Naujokas started talking about a deep-dive discussion on use of force, “We were all just kind of like, ‘What? We all know this isn’t an issue. We’ve had no complaints. Our police chief is awesome.’” “Which is not the same as saying there’s no racism.”

Gold spent two weeks trying to explain to people that her words had been misconstrued. She was trying to reason with a group of people in no mood to be reasoned with.

“They were outraged, and looking for a focus for their outrage. Unfortunately, they focused on us,” she said, referring to the council. “And specifically, me. Which was very inappropriate.”

Five weeks after Gold left office, two other council members announced they would not seek reelection. Both Vice Mayor Shaun McCaffery, the council’s longest-serving member, and first-term council member Naujokas decided, like Gold, that they no longer wanted to serve. Both said they hoped to make room for people of color on the council so new voices could be heard.

Their departures leave three council seats open, ensuring that the political ferment initiated by Naujokas will continue into November and beyond.

While Gold expressed “relief ” to be out of the public eye, it rankles that many of her critics “didn’t know anything about me or my record. To them I was just an old white lady.”

Fluent in Spanish, she spent a year as an undergraduate in Mexico. Gold prided herself on her advocacy for Healdsburg’s Latinx community. When Leticia Romero, former executive director of Corazon Healdsburg, had a problem with tenants facing eviction, “she called me,” says Gold.

After her resignation, Gold got in her small RV and “literally drove into the sunset.” She returned a reporter’s call from a beach in Carmel, sounding as if she’d had quite enough of politics.

“I’m going to be apolitical for quite a while, I think.”

Taking note of the flak Gold was catching, her fellow council members performed an abrupt about-face. “I would just like to apologize for … not recognizing the urgency of the issue [Naujokas] brought before us,” Councilman David Hagele said at a subsequent meeting. “That was tone-deaf on my part, and, to our neighbors that felt marginalized or dismissed, I’m sorry.”

The council took Naujokas’ advice and invited Police Chief Kevin Burke to address it. Burke proposed hiring a bilingual, licensed social worker to fill one of the vacancies in his 18-officer department. That person would provide additional training to other officers in areas such as equity and unconscious bias.

The council loved it. Burke “saw the need for an honest, creative, out of the box proposal, and stepped up,” said Naujokas. “I was proud of our chief in that moment.”

The change kept coming. On her way out the door, Gold expressed the hope that her vacant seat might be filled by a person of color.

Her former colleagues obliged her, unanimously choosing Ozzy Jimenez, the 33-year-old CEO of Noble Folk Ice Cream & Pie Bar. A Piner High grad whose partner, Christian Sullberg, hails from Healdsburg, Jimenez enjoyed broad support in the community. Before convincing the city council to invite him aboard, however, he had to convince himself.

“It wasn’t my intention to civically engage this year,” he said. “But the ex-mayor left the door open for a person of color to fill the seat.”

Is there someone I could mentor? Jimenez recalled asking himself. Perhaps a community leader who needed a good sounding board?

Finally, he arrived at a conclusion: “I was like, I think it’s me. I think I have to do this.”

Jimenez, who is of Mexican descent, has long been acutely aware that nearly a third of Healdsburg “is not represented” in city or state government. Before joining the city council, he worked with non-profits, mainly Healdsburg Forever, to take on stubborn problems like food insecurity and the housing crisis. He’s looking forward, he said, to bringing his “nuanced knowledge” to the job.

“Ozzy stands strong for the most vulnerable in Northern Sonoma County,” noted Sen. McGuire in a congratulatory tweet. “He’s a civic-minded small business owner committed to doing good for his community.”

“I think this is a moment for celebration,” said Evelyn Mitchell, who replaced Gold as mayor, moments after the appointment of Jimenez. “It brings tears to my eyes.”

It was Mitchell who’d swiftly seconded Gold’s opinion, five weeks earlier, that a formal discussion of police use of force was unnecessary, a non-starter.

And it was Mitchell who’d cast the deciding vote allowing Jimenez to serve the remaining 2 ½ years of Gold’s term. The other option was to force him to run for reelection in November, when three other council seats will be up for grabs.

“We have gotten through what has proven to be an incredibly difficult time, and it really opened up our eyes to a lot of issues,” Mitchell went on. “I’m just sorry that it came this way. Nevertheless, we will move forward.”

We’ve seen the protests before, following the deaths of Freddie Gray in Baltimore (2015), Michael Brown in Ferguson, Missouri, (2014), and, closer to home, Andy Lopez in Santa Rosa (2013), to name a few young men of color killed by police.

Fallout from the death of George Floyd has been far more widespread. It has led to a vast reckoning with racism that goes beyond police reform. Doug Hilberman, president of the Sonoma County Alliance, resigned in June after beginning a letter that was posted on the influential business group’s website with the words “ALL lives matter.” That phrase is viewed by the Black Lives Matter movement as offensive, a criticism that dismisses systemic racism that has devalued the lives of Black people.

Across the country, CEOs have resigned, statues have been torn down, and Confederate flags have been banned from NASCAR and U.S. military bases.

What’s different this time?

The author and historian Ibram X. Kendi draws a sharp distinction between being “non-racist” – a neutral, passive outlook – and being actively “antiracist.”

“One either allows racial inequities to persevere, as a racist, or confronts racial inequities, as an anti-racist,” he writes in his 2019 book “How To Be An Antiracist.”

“There is no in-between safe space of ‘not racist.’” One reason the Black Lives Matter movement has gained significant traction across the country since Floyd was killed is that Kendi’s proactive message, his warning against complacency, is resonating with a new generation of activists.

Skylaer Palacios, 25, is a graduate of Healdsburg High School who identifies as Black, Latina, and Native American (Arawak). She was Miss Sonoma County in 2014. While she’s pleased by the movement toward police reform in the wake of Floyd’s death, “it’s not enough.”

Banning chokeholds is a good start, she said.“But that’s treating a symptom, not the root cause.”

Nor is it enough, she added, for the Black Lives Matter protests to simply raise awareness of racial inequality. Reading an article about a protest does not equal “actually being willing to accept that you’re part of it.”

“This is everybody’s problem,” she said.

She remembers standing with her mother near the bleachers at Healdsburg High in 2009 for her brother’s commencement ceremony. They were looking for a place to sit. A woman near them scolded, “Speak English!” even though they had been speaking English.

“I can only imagine that she just saw our skin color and needed to find something to say to try and diminish us.”

Palacios has also expressed interest in running for a city council seat. While her focus would be primarily on affordable housing, she’s also advocating for “cultural awareness.” To her, that topic includes not just racial and ethnic awareness, but the shift she’s seen in Healdsburg from “the culture of the family and community to the culture of luxury and hospitality.”

Lupe Lopez also grew up in Healdsburg. She followed the Black Lives Matter movement and knew she wanted to contribute to it, “but didn’t know how.”

Then Leah Gold and the city council put their feet in their mouths, and a light went on for Lopez. She would give people of color a place to have their voices heard “in town that almost feels like it doesn’t validate them.”

She teamed up with Perez to make it happen. There they stood in the gazebo on June 11 as people filed through the exhibit, their expressions growing serious as they read the stories, and realized how far we have not come, how much work there is still to do.

Making Wine at Home Is a Growing Trend in Sonoma County

Emily Ernst and husband Greg, home winemakers topping off their zinfandel

During harvest, the most prized possession in Emily Ernst’s Geyserville garage isn’t a motorcycle or vintage car, but a 30-gallon plastic bin of fermenting Zinfandel.

Every year since 2013, Ernst and her husband Greg have picked grapes from the 250 vines in front of their home, de-stemmed and crushed them in rented equipment in their garage, and then poured them into plastic bins to start fermenting, the first step in becoming wine.

Ultimately, the juice ends up in American oak barrels, where it remains for at least a year. And when the couple finally gets the wine into the bottle, they label it Ernst & Ernst—E&E for short. “It’s a passion we take seriously,” says Emily, who adds that the duo has won several Sonoma County Harvest Fair Wine Competition medals. “There’s something special about making your wine in a garage.”

The Ernsts aren’t the only ones embracing hobby winemaking these days. With so many people moving here to indulge in a love of wine, it’s not surprising that a growing group of locals carry on the time-honored tradition of the garagiste. These folks have fermentations bubbling away, and maybe even a barrel or two tucked away to age in the corner of a garage or shed.

With plenty of access to high-quality grapes and with professional winemakers and growers nearby to offer creative input, Sonoma has become a hotbed of the home winemaking movement. Garagistes in other parts of the country obsess no less about their wines but must to make do with lower-quality grapes that are picked and then shipped overnight — not an inspiring kickoff.

“Garage winemakers might be part of the commercial wine industry, or they might have jobs that are entirely separate, but they all share a love of wine and winemaking that they simply can’t shake,” says 86-year-old Healdsburg resident Bob Bennett, considered the grandfather of the local home winemaking movement. “Once you get a taste of what it’s like to make your own, you get hooked.”

Wine presses and barrels and other equipment at the Beverage People, the landmark store in Santa Rosa that helps SoCo home winemakers with the equipment and advice they need.
Wine presses and barrels and other equipment at the Beverage People, the landmark store in Santa Rosa that helps home winemakers with the equipment and advice they need. (Chris Hardy)

Getting started

If anybody knows about garage wines, it’s Bennett. He’s the founder of Garage Enologists of the North County, or GENCO (the name is a subtle nod to the movie “The Godfather”), which is one of two popular garage winemaking clubs in Sonoma County. The other group, Sonoma Home Winemakers, is based in the town of Sonoma. “It’s developed into a real community,” says Bennett.

He started his group in 1994 with a classified ad in the Press Democrat, and the group now has nearly 100 members. They get together monthly, lately over Zoom, to share best practices and listen

to speakers, often well-known winemakers. Until recently, meetings included plenty of tastings, and members encourage each other to submit wines for judging at the Sonoma County Harvest Fair, which rewards home winemakers in a variety of categories.

According to Bennett, the biggest difference between garage winemaking and making wine at a commercial winery facility is scale. Garage winemakers usually are working with a few tons and no more than a couple of barrels. Another difference: Because they’re not bonded, amateur winemakers aren’t legally allowed to sell their wine. Each household can make up to 200 gallons per year; the wine must be given away as gifts.

Because home winemakers are working with such small quantities, they usually buy grapes from friends or local growers looking to offload surplus. One great spot to find grapes of all varieties: an online marketplace run by the Sonoma County Winegrowers. Procuring equipment is important, too. Some garage winemakers own their equipment or share with friends through winemaking clubs or word of mouth. Others turn to The Beverage People, a Santa Rosa company that sells winemaking equipment and supplies, including small-scale crushers, de-stemmers, and presses along with fermentation bins, barrels, bottlers, and more.

Gabe Jackson, president and CFO of The Beverage People, says most customers come in with some basic ideas about winemaking and are exited to experiment and learn by trial and error. The shop also offers garage winemakers the opportunity to submit their wines to a wine lab for information about sugars and acid balance.

“You’d be amazed at the kinds of questions we receive and the conversations we get into,” says Jackson. “People take this stuff very seriously, and it’s great to be able to get them the things they need.’

Making it happen

The winemaking process begins in earnest with harvest. Most garage winemakers like to pick their own fruit to establish a connection with the land, often making harvest and crush into a social event with family and neighbors.

Quinn Donovan, a member of GENCO who recently completed the viticulture program at Santa Rosa Junior College, planned an entire Saturday last fall around harvesting Tempranillo with friends. They got up early to pick at a vineyard outside Windsor and brought the fruit back to Donovan’s garage. After lunch, they de-stemmed the fruit, crushed it, and transferred it into bins to ferment.

“It’s hard work, but I look forward to the process of picking and crushing all year long,” says Donovan, whose day job is in rural development with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. “If I sold the wine for money, it wouldn’t be fun.”

After anywhere from 10-21 days, most of the wine is ready to be transferred into storage vessels. Some winemakers age their juice in oak barrels, just like they do in the big leagues. Others, such as Donovan and his friend, invest in giant glass jars dubbed carboys. Then comes perhaps the hardest part of garage winemaking — standing by and waiting while the wine matures. For white wines, this can six months or longer. For reds, it can be years.

Gary Alvey, a retired firefighter in Healdsburg, is a home winemaker and says one of his favorite moments in the process is taking that first taste and to see how a vintage is shaping up. Over the last 15 years, Alvey and his winemaking partner Mike Sinclair have experienced serious success, taking home two double gold honors for their Sauvignon Blanc. But that recognition pales alongside the fact that his friends think the wine is delicious.

“There’s nothing like seeing the look on a friend’s face when they pop open your wine, swirl it around, and say, ‘Man, that’s good!’” he says, noting that he served the award-winning Sauvignon Blanc at his daughters’ weddings in 2015 and 2017. “At the end of the day, that’s really what this entire hobby is all about.”

Feeling inspired?

Budding hobby winemakers in Sonoma County have plenty of resources. A good first step is to reach out to a local home winemaking club for ideas and mentorship. Fall is the perfect time to get started, as most grapes are picked in September and October and are used fresh.

Home winemaker clubs:

Garage Enologists of North County (GENCO), gencowinemakers.com

Sonoma Home Winemakers, sonomahomewine.org

Equipment:

The Beverage People, 1845 Piner Road, Santa Rosa, 707-544-2520, thebeveragepeople.com

Education:

Santa Rosa Junior College Wine Studies program, ag.santarosa.edu/wine-studies

Grape marketplace:

Sonoma County Winegrowers, sonomawinegrape.org

Becoming Farmers: A Couple Builds Their Dream Small Business in Sonoma

Chris and Lori Melançon were living in San Francisco and burning out on the hustle of city life when they started having discussions about buying land and becoming farmers. “We were doing the city thing, the rat race so to speak, working really hard at our corporate jobs and still not able to quite afford the apartment we were in,” Lori recalls.

They talked about purchasing a small plot of land where they could meditate, garden, and, in Lori’s case, practice yoga. After reading “The Omnivore’s Dilemma,” Michael Pollan’s groundbreaking book on the ethical choices we make with the foods we produce and consume, Lori wondered whether she and Chris could be making more responsible choices. They thought the dream of having their own small farm was something that would have to wait until they retired from their current jobs. But then Chris spotted an opportunity.

It was an online real estate listing for a ranch house built in 1920 on four acres of grazing land just southeast of the town of Sonoma. “When he showed me the picture, I had a feeling,” Lori says.

Seven years later, the couple live full-time on the site of what is now Lola Sonoma Farms (“Lola” is Lori’s nickname) and oversee a thriving enterprise. It’s been harder than they ever imagined. Chris said had the couple known then what they know now, they would have ramped things up more slowly, taken a little more time to understand what they were getting into — and started with better fences. “One thing we learned is when you put male and female animals together, they will procreate,” he says with a laugh.

A handsome Wyandotte rooster keeps watch. (Rebecca Gosselin)
Livestock guardian dogs Coal, left, and his sister Kat are a cross between two breeds, Great Pyrenees and Anatolian Shepherd. (Rebecca Gosselin)

They are not typical farmers. Chris, who grew up in Southern California, honored his family tradition by graduating from the U.S. Military Academy at West Point and serving three years as a light infantry officer. Afterward, he went to business school, which led to a career in biotechnology. He met Lori, who grew up in the Bay Area and has an MBA, at the company where they both worked.

Other than tending a small garden near their apartment and taking a few gardening classes, the couple had zero experience with the gritty day-to-day reality of growing crops or raising animals before launching Lola Sonoma Farms. They have since learned by trial and error, by taking advice and counsel from other farmers and by attending classes and networking sessions.

Lola Sonoma Farms produces all kinds of row crops, including rainbow chard. (Rebecca Gosselin)
Lori cuddles a one-week-old mini-Nubian goat. (Rebecca Gosselin)

The Melançons grow a range of produce in hoop houses and beds, which they sell at farmer’s markets and to restaurants. Barns and pastures support 40 hens, 17 goats, 32 pigs and a small herd of sheep. Customers can purchase pork through a farm share program. They also keep bees, offer workshops for making goat cheese, and breed livestock guardian dogs to fend off predators, including coyotes, foxes, and raptors.

The couple’s mission is to further regenerative agriculture and put back into the land what they take from it. They’ve received grant funding to plant a hedgerow that supports organic pest control and pollinators. “We’re not going to solve climate change on 12 acres, but we’re doing our part,” Lori says.

Native bush mallow in bloom along a hedgerow. (Rebecca Gosselin)

The work is hard, and the days and nights are long. This spring, Lori bedded down in a stall with a goat that had gone into labor. Two of the kids were born without complications, but a third was breach, forcing Lori to reach inside and turn the baby, likely saving its life and the life of the mother. Such life-and-death moments carry profound weight for the couple, who say losing an animal unexpectedly is the hardest part of working the farm. “We’ve seen enough of those instances, more than I care to admit,” Chris says. “But when I talk to other farmers, they say they’ve all been there, that it’s part of the profession. You have to focus more on the beginning and not the endings, and move on.”

Chris works the farm full-time, while Lori still has a biotech job. One silver lining of the coronavirus outbreak is that she has been able to work remotely from the couple’s home. Most days, she rises before dawn, pours herself coffee and logs on to a computer for meetings with her colleagues on the East Coast. In the early afternoon, she changes into her grubbies and heads outside for farm chores.

On warm summer evenings, the couple enjoys home-cooked meals on their outdoor patio in the glow of string lights. Farm volunteers, many of them WWOOFers (Worldwide Opportunities on Organic Farms), are often invited to share the experience. “You get to meet so many people from around the world, and there’s no better way to share a relationship than over food – especially food you’ve grown,” Lori says.

Having traveled widely, Chris says they can’t imagine a place more suited to fostering their dreams than the place they call home. “I can say pretty confidently I don’t think there is another place on the planet that values the small farmer more than Sonoma County.”

This Sebastopol Shop Offers One-of-a-Kind Native American Arts and Clothing

Leather artist and Comanche descendent Kerry Mitchell, owner of Native Riders in Sebastopol. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

“History seems to be repeating itself”, says leather craftsperson Kerry Mitchell after reopening his Sebastopol business, Native Riders, following months of closure due to the pandemic.

Nearly 50 years ago, Mitchell’s family’s Native American arts and clothing shop in Laguna Beach also closed abruptly. The property on which they operated the store was converted into a parking lot, he explains—ironically enough, right around the time that Joni Mitchell was singing those very lines: ‘They paved paradise, put up a parking lot.’

Mitchell, whose family heritage is Comanche, learned the craft of leatherwork from his father. He cuts, ties, and sews leather, often adding embellishments such as beads, feathers, or coins. He also creates exquisite “augmented denim” and works with vintage Pendleton wool blankets and jackets.

Leather artist and Comanche descendent Kerry Mitchell, owner of Native Riders in Sebastopol. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Leather artist and Comanche descendent Kerry Mitchell, owner of Native Riders in Sebastopol. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Mitchell says work is his therapy and estimates he puts in about 70 hours
a week into his craft and managing the shop, which sells the work of artists from 26 different tribes. He goes to his crafting bench to tinker with pieces in between helping customers, many of whom are fellow artists.

While assisting one customer with a question about materials to make a ceremonial fan, Mitchell suggests crafting a handle from antler instead of wood and adds a precious scrap of smoky-smelling cured hide to the purchase. These details are important, he explains. “It’s more traditional.”

851 Gravenstein Highway S., Sebastopol, 707-829-8544, nativeridersarts.com

Iconic Sonoma County Restaurant Turns 40

Then: Bill and Cindy Price of San Jose enjoy lunch on the patio at John Ash & Co. restaurant at River Rd and Hwy 101 north of Santa Rosa. (The Press Democrat)

John Ash and Co. is celebrating its 40th year in business this month. For a human, that’s middle age. For a restaurant, it’s a miracle.

A restaurant lasting four decades or more is so exceedingly rare that comprehensive statistics for restaurants open more than 10 years don’t even exist. But it’s also exceptional when a restaurant engenders an entirely new genre of cooking, as John Ash and Co. did with Wine Country cuisine.

Taking cues from his time in France, notably Provence, Chef Ash put the bounty of Sonoma County’s farms, ranches and coasts to good use — the original farm to table — rather than simply mimicking other cuisines and using imported or canned products.

Chef John Ash. (Courtesy of John Ash)

In 2000, Ash sold the restaurant he started in 1980, but it continues to carry his name, under the leadership of Executive Chef Thomas Schmidt. And from now until Oct. 25, Schmidt will prepare 40th anniversary prix fixe dinners to pay homage to many of Ash’s early dishes, including Hog Island Oysters Rockefeller, Baby Greens with estate pears and roasted beets, Beef Wellington, Alaskan Halibut in spicy coconut broth, Sticky Date Pudding Cake and a chocolate caramel tart with vanilla bean gelato.

The dinner is $65 per person, and diners can enjoy the restaurant’s lovely outdoor patio. To make a reservation, go to vintnersresort.com/dining

We talked to Chef Ash about his early inspirations, the secrets of a restaurant lasting 40 years and his early influences.

Is there a secret to a restaurant lasting for 40 years?

Hard to believe that John Ash & Company has been around for 40 years. It is often said in the restaurant business that if you can make it for five years, you are doing good. The reason that the restaurant has lasted so long is clearly through the hard work and dedication of so many talented people. I helped start it, but it then took on a life of its own.

What was Sonoma County like when you started John Ash & Co in 1980?

Forty years ago, Sonoma County was a quite different place. Yes, there were wineries, but not so many. (There was) agriculture of all kinds; dairy, cheese, poultry, lamb, beef, fish and shellfish, plus amazing produce were all here, but generally it got shipped down the road to San Francisco or even farther south to Los Angeles.

You’re often called the “Father of Wine Country cuisine,” but in the 1980s there weren’t really any farm-to-table restaurants featuring local products here. How did that change?

It took some time for Sonoma to be recognized for its culinary brilliance. I came to Sonoma County on a dare, having worked in San Francisco for several years. I loved coming up to Sonoma to visit. The countryside and its agriculture reminded me of my time in France. A winemaker friend invited me up for a meal at one of the “best” restaurants in Santa Rosa. It was the middle of summertime and, despite having amazing fresh products nearby, they were serving canned vegetables. My immediate thought: “I could be a big fish in a small pond,” and with the help of some doctor friends, I opened the first John Ash & Company in Montgomery Village in 1980.

A pivotal article appeared in W Magazine in the mid 1980s which described Sonoma as America’s Provence. A nice review of the restaurant was included and that encouraged favorable reviews from the San Francisco Chronicle, Los Angeles Times, New York Times and a slew of culinary magazines such as Food & Wine, Bon Appetit and others. We were launched!

What were some of your early influences?

My bent was very much the same as I experienced in France: fresh seasonal and local foods, ethically grown and carefully prepared with generally French technique. We also emphasized that wine was an especially important part of the meal and an important focus of our offerings. We were one of the first to offer wine suggestions with menu foods. For many years we took on the role of “ecole du vin,” offering regular wine tasting classes and events.

Your foundation is in European culinary traditions, but you also love Asian cuisine. How did that come about?

At the end of the 1980s I was lucky enough to be invited to Japan to share ideas and help promote California food and wine. I spent a month or two each year for the next 15 years doing these promotions and discovered the elegance and sophistication of Japanese cuisine. This led me to a now-lifelong exploration of Asian foods, especially Japanese and Southeast Asian.

What is your culinary legacy?

Five cookbooks, three years on the Food Network and participation with ethical agricultural organizations such as Seafood Watch and the Chef’s Collaborative. I owe it all to that modest Montgomery Village restaurant.

Around Healdsburg with Erika Dawkins

Bon Ton Studio owner Erika Dawkins remembers her parents having lots of visitors. After traveling and studying fashion, she now understands why her hometown attracts so many — like those come from- afar wine interns working the fall harvest. Dawkins met and married one of those interns, Ross Dawkins, a South African winemaker.

Ross, Erika and Sophie Dawkins. (Courtesy of Bon Ton Studio)

Bon Ton Studio is the brick-and-mortar iteration of the online business Erika started while living in southwest Australia for her husband’s job. It offers imported housewares and apparel in her signature

aesthetic: natural materials, a subdued palette, and punches of vibrant color. Her elegant storefront sits across from several businesses owned by friends from her school days, including the El Sombrero taco shop and Noble Folk Ice Cream & Pie Bar. She laughs, “It’s like a Healdsburg High School reunion on this corner.”

Click through the above gallery to see some of Erika’s favorite Healdsburg spots.

 

Spice Up Fall with This Chile Recipe

The names of fall chiles are as colorful as the chiles themselves: Lemon Drop, Satan’s Kiss, Trinidad Scorpion, Carolina Reaper. Cinderella gets its name from its squat, pumpkin-like shape, and the Lunchbox is sweet and mild enough for a child’s lunch.

All chiles start out green; some stay green to maturity. Others take on an array of fall colors as they ripen, from pale yellow to orange, red, purple, even chocolate. Chile season in Sonoma continues until the first frost, usually sometime in November in most areas of the county. Some farmers anticipate this moment, pulling plants and hanging them in a cool barn, where they can be harvested for a few more weeks.

Stuffed Poblanos with Corn Salsa

Serves 4

• 8 poblano chiles

• 4 to 6 ounces Vella Mezzo Secco, Bellwether Carmody, Matos St. George, or similar cheese, sliced

For corn salsa

• 1 large ear of fresh corn

• 2 tablespoons minced red onion

• 1 small serrano chile, minced

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 tablespoon lime juice

• 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

• salt to taste

For serving

• 8 corn tortillas, hot but not crisp

• 1 lime, cut in wedges 

First, make the corn salsa. Cut the kernels off of a large ear of fresh corn, and place in a small bowl. Toss the kernels with the remaining ingredients and a couple pinches of salt. Adjust salt and lime juice to taste.

Using tongs, sear the chiles over a high flame or very hot burner, turning as their skins take on color and loosen. Set aside, cover, and let cool. When cool, preheat the oven to 350 degrees, then use your fingers to peel off the charred skins of the chiles as completely as possible. Cut off the stem ends and pull out the seed cores. Divide the cheese between the chiles and insert into the cavity. Put the stuffed peppers on a lightly oiled baking sheet, set on the middle rack of the oven, and cook until the cheese is melted, about 6 to 7 minutes.

Remove the chiles from the oven. Top with corn salsa, and enjoy hot with corn tortillas and lime wedges.

Volunteers Harvest Surplus Produce for Locals in Need

Duskie Estes with the Farm to Pantry program, Friday, July 10, 2020, picks peaches at a west Dry Creek ranch (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat) 2020

A growing number of volunteers are working to make sure that Sonoma’s fall bounty gets to locals in need by harvesting surplus produce that would otherwise go to waste. Duskie Estes, a popular local chef and Food Network star, says her Healdsburg nonprofit, Farm to Pantry, has over 180 gleaners gathering produce six days a week for food pantries and aid groups.

And Dani Wilcox, founder of Sonoma County Gleaners, says more residents have asked her group to pick fruit and vegetables from smaller backyard gardens. “The people that have that surplus feel they won’t let it go to waste this year,” she explains.

David Goodman, chief executive of the Redwood Empire Food Bank, says

gleaned produce is often a key ingredient in the premade entrees the food pantry makes and distributes.

These donations are needed, especially as the organization has seen demand for its emergency food boxes increase by 300% since the pandemic began. “It’s an opportunity for people to engage in hunger relief who didn’t necessarily have the ability to contribute in other ways,” he says.