Chef Perry Hoffman at Boonville Hotel Lucille Lawrence.
When people head to Mendocino, most make a beeline for the coast. From botanical gardens and ocean-view hikes to train rides through the redwoods, it’s is a dream destination for nature lovers. But there are places along the road that are worth exploring, too.
In Mendocino’s Anderson Valley, low-key towns like Philo and Boonville offer something a little different, from cider tastings in an orchard to multi-course meals by former SHED chef Perry Hoffman. Here’s what not to miss on a visit.
Hendy Woods State Park
Mendocino County is home to a whopping 24 state parks. An ideal spot to stretch your legs, Hendy Woods State Park protects two redwood groves: Big Hendy Grove and Little Hendy Grove. Big Hendy Grove, which covers 80 acres, is the largest and most popular of the two and has a wheelchair-accessible trail.
All cider tastings at Gowan’s in Philo are held outdoors in one of the family’s apple orchards. (Courtesy of Visit Mendocino)
Gowan’s Cider Tasting in the Orchard
Relax in the shade of century-old apple trees while tasting your way through a flight of Gowan’s ciders. The Gowan family has grown apples in Philo for six generations, since 1876. They started making ciders seven years ago and also operate the iconic Gowan’s Oak Tree Fruit Stand just down the road on Highway 128. The family uses a variety of heirloom apples, including Gravenstein, Macintosh and the rare Sierra Beauty, to craft a half-dozen ciders.
Tastings take place in the orchard, Friday through Monday. More opening days may be added later in the summer, so make sure to check the website. A flight of six ciders is $15. Reservations are preferred.
Anderson Valley’s Roederer Estate is the California outpost of France’s family-run Louis Roederer champagne house. Toast to the winery’s 40th anniversary this year with a glass of bubbly — there’s also pinot noir and chardonnay on the tasting menu but it’s the sparkling wine that draws crowds. Since there are only a half-dozen tables on the winery terrace, reservations are recommended.
The Classic Sparkling Flight (Brut, Brut in Magnum, 2015 L’Ermitage Brut, Extra Dry) is $20; the 40th Anniversary Flight (Brut, Library Reserve, 2015 L’Ermitage Brut, 2003 L’Ermitage Late Disgorged Brust, 2013 L’Ermitage Brut Rosé) is $40.
Foursight Wines is a true family affair: Husband and wife Bill and Nancy Charles grow the grapes while their daughter Kristy Charles and her husband, Joseph Webb, make the wine. Taste the family’s pinot noir, semillon and sauvignon blanc in the winery’s shaded backyard Friday through Monday.
Tastings ($20) typically include six to eight pours. Reservations are preferred; limited walk-in appointments are available.
Wine and cheese tasting at Pennyroyal Farm in Boonville. (Courtesy of Visit Mendocino)
Pennyroyal Farm
If you only have time for one stop in Anderson Valley, make it Pennyroyal Farm. Guided tours of the creamery and vineyard include the farm’s solar-powered barn, where you will meet some of the most social goats around. Be prepared to make new friends — every goat has a name.
After the tour, a wine and cheese pairing ($30) is served on a patio overlooking the vineyards. Tours are offered 10:30 a.m. Thursday through Monday; reservations are required.
This casual wine and specialty food market, owned by fine wine and specialty food expert Wendy Lamer, serves up a combination of local and imported wines and artisan food, from tapas like piquillo peppers stuffed with goat cheese to smoked duck breast sliders with sour cherry jam. The wine list is extensive and circles the globe: from right around the corner in Anderson Valley to France’s Rhone region.
The talented team at Boonville Hotel have added yet another delicious reason to spend time in their neighborhood: Offspring Pizza. Watch pizzas slide in and out of the wood-fired oven at this new restaurant, located across the street from the hotel in the Farrer Building.
On a typical day, you’ll find a handful of pizza options on the menu at Offspring. Open Tuesday through Sunday. BYOB.
Pizza from Offspring Wood Fired Pizza at the Farrer Building. (Courtesy of Offspring Wood Fired Pizza)
Make it a Weekend
If you’d like to spend the night, the rooms at Boonville Hotel are dreamy and Instagram-worthy. The hotel restaurant serves multi-course meals by Michelin-starred chef Perry Hoffman, formerly of Healdsburg SHED. A four-course prix fix menu ($68 per person) is served Thursday, Sunday and Monday. On Friday and Saturday, the menu consists of five courses and is $86 per person. Dinner menus for the week are posted every Wednesday on the hotel website. Save time to explore the hotel garden, which is also impressive. Rates start at $195.
The Madrones is another excellent place to rest your head in Anderson Valley. The Mediterranean-inspired resort has nine rooms. Its sister property, The Brambles, is located just next door and has another five rooms. Rates start at $250. The striking compound also boasts a restaurant, a pair of wine tasting rooms, an herbal apothecary and shopping.
A hot air balloon floats over Windsor vineyards. (Kent Porter)
Sure, you could take your special someone on a classic Wine Country date, like a fancy dinner at a Michelin-starred restaurant or a wine tasting for two at a gorgeous vineyard. But if you’re looking for a more out-of-the-box date that the two of you won’t be able to stop talking about, then your search is over.
We’re compiling lively and memorable date ideas across Sonoma County. First up: Santa Rosa. This vibrant city in the heart of the county was ranked among the top 10 “fun places to live in the U.S.” by U.S. News & World Report last year. An abundance of arts, dining and recreational activities — from outdoor excursions to cozy indoor retreats — makes this city a great spot for any type of romantic rendezvous.
Here are 12 fun dates you can only experience in Santa Rosa.
Romance on ice — Snoopy’s Home Ice: Dress in layers to get ready for one of the coolest date night spots in the county — Snoopy’s Home Ice. Whether you’re a novice in need of a partner’s guiding hand on the rink or a skating savant hoping to impress your date on the ice, there are plenty of opportunities to get close and have fun. General skate sessions are $11, plus a $4 skate rental; late-night skate sessions are $9, plus a $2 skate rental. Check the calendar for skate times. After your skating session, snuggle up together with a cup of hot chocolate at the rink’s Warm Puppy Cafe, or head across the street to Kettles Vietnamese Bistro to share a large, steaming bowl of phở and a cocktail.
Art and brews — Museum of Sonoma County: Show off your cultured side and take your date on a saunter through the sculpture garden and art exhibitions at the Museum of Sonoma County. The downtown Santa Rosa museum houses diverse mixed-media art exhibits, drop-in art making classes every second Saturday of the month and a carefully landscaped sculpture garden perfect for a hand-in-hand promenade with your artsy partner. General admission is $10 for adults and $7 for seniors, students and disabled people. After your museum trip, head to the nearby Brew cafe to discuss the artwork over a specialty coffee or craft beer.
425 Seventh St., Santa Rosa, 707-579-1500, museumsc.org
Food, fun and farmers — Santa Rosa Wednesday Night Market: To get your meal, drinks, dancing and other exciting activities in one location, take your date to the Wednesday Night Market in downtown Santa Rosa. From 5-8:30 p.m. every Wednesday in summer through August, the grand community farmers market and street fair boasts rocking live concerts (with ample room to dance), exhibits and entertainers, art and clothing vendors, and of course, dozens of local farmers and food concession stands. Plus, there’s a dedicated Kid Space with plenty of fun activities for the young ones if you couldn’t get a sitter in time for date night. Where else can you stuff your face with Peruvian food and juicy, farm-fresh pluots while jamming to a Tom Petty tribute band?
Rose garden strolls — Luther Burbank Home & Gardens: You could buy your date a dozen roses or, better yet, bring them to a lush garden brimming with hundreds of them. Luther Burbank Home & Gardens has a vast assortment of colorful flowers and plants, from year-round roses and hydrangeas to horticulturist Luther Burbank’s own hand-bred plum trees and Shasta daisies. Garden and museum tours are held 1-4 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday, and the gardens are open to freely roam around every day until dusk. Tours are $10 for adults and $8.50 for seniors, college students and children ages 12-18. If your visit is timed just right, head to Juilliard Park across the street after your garden gallivanting to enjoy free music as part of the annual Live at Juilliard Concert Series, from 5-7 p.m. each Sunday, July 17 to Aug. 21.
Indie darlings — Summerfield Cinemas and East West Cafe: Switch up your typical dinner-and-a-movie night with an indie film at Summerfield Cinemas followed by a fresh Mediterranean meal at the nearby East West Cafe. Summerfield specializes in independent, art-house and foreign films — perfect for those with eclectic tastes. If you haven’t filled up on popcorn, walk over to East West Cafe to share a colorful Mediterranean Platter and baklava or vegan chocolate cake for dessert. Bonus: The charming Howarth Park is right across the street to walk around and discuss the film.
Walk on the wild side — Safari West: If you’re dating a zoophilist (a lover of animals), treat them to a wildly fun time in Sonoma’s Serengeti. From antelopes to zebras, Safari West’s 400-acre preserve is home to hundreds of animals, and there are plenty of ways to experience the wildlife, Wine Country-style. You can book a private safari, such as the Winos & Rhinos Safari Adventure, where you and your partner can sip wine while touring the preserve and learning about its amusing animals. Don’t forget to reserve a spot at the estate’s Savannah Café for a South African-inspired meal, or book a romantic overnight stay in a luxury glamping tent or cottage.
3115 Porter Creek Road, Santa Rosa, 707-579-2551, safariwest.com
Be kids again — Poppy Bank Epicenter: Relive your childhood with an exhilarating date at Santa Rosa’s epicenter, jammed-packed with exciting activities. The epicenter is home to an arcade, bowling alley, trampoline park, laser tag arena, virtual reality platform, a 3D interactive theater and even an axe-throwing arena. Plus, there are regular weekly events like comedy shows, musical acts, bingo, karaoke and paint nights, which can all be enjoyed along with a meal from the epicenter’s Victory House Sports Bar & Restaurant.
Take to the skies — Wine Country Balloons: Those with vertigo need not apply, as this stunning date will take you over a 1,000 feet in a colorful hot air balloon, with sublime views of vineyards, pristine pastures, oak woodlands and redwood forests. Rest assured the balloon pilots are highly-experienced — chief pilot Scott van der Horst has logged over 8,000 hours of flying hot air balloons, personally hosting more than 50,000 passengers. Reserved flights are $275 per person, and other amenities are available for additional fees, such as a cake for a special occasion or a custom DVD video of your ballooning experience. Wine Country Balloons also offers transportation to and from the launch and landing sites, ending at Kaffe Mocha & Grill for a post-flight champagne brunch.
Get theatrical — 6th Street Playhouse: Let the talented theater company at 6th Street Playhouse dazzle you and your date with a captivating show in the renovated cannery near historic Railroad Square. The playhouse will open this season with its production of Jane Austen’s classic witty romance Pride and Prejudice, beginning Aug. 11, followed by an intimate and sultry performance of the Broadway hit Cabaret beginning Sept. 15. Ticket prices vary. After the play, you and your date can recite show tunes while strolling along the Santa Rosa Creek or treat yourselves to a romantic dinner at the nearby French eatery La Gare.
Climb time — Vertex and Session climbing centers: Get your heart pumping with an adventurous date of bouldering, rope climbing and other physical activities at Santa Rosa’s two climbing gyms. The tall rock climbing walls at Vertex and Session provide a perfect opportunity to support your partner as they find their footing and scale their way to the top. Vertex has aerial skills classes (starting in August) to fly in the air with silk bands, and both centers provide yoga classes for a more relaxed workout together. Day passes at Vertex are $20 for adults, $18 for youth and $16 for the early bird special (8 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Thursday and Friday). Day passes at Session are $25 for adults, $22 for youth, seniors and military, and $20 for the early bird special (before 4 p.m. Monday through Friday).
Vertex, 3358a Coffey Lane, Santa Rosa, 707-573-1608, climbvertex.com; Session, 965 South A St., Santa Rosa, 707-852-1040, sessionclimbing.com
Scavenging sweethearts — Operation City Quest: Work together, and become closer in the process, to solve riddles and hunt for items around downtown Santa Rosa using Operation City Quest’s scavenger hunt app. The organization features fun photo scavenger hunts in cities across the nation, but just one in Sonoma County, starting in Old Courthouse Square to hunt for items within a two-mile radius. There’s even a special date version of the scavenger hunt, with six additional challenges to bond over and learn more about each other. To plan your couple’s scavenger hunt, purchase and redeem tickets on the website (original version is $20 per person and date version is $22 per person), download the app and begin your hunt at the suggested starting location (detailed instructions and a game code will be sent to your email).
Dance the night away — Monroe Hall: Chassé into each other’s hearts at this 2,700-square-foot dance hall that’s been a dancing and social gathering spot since 1922. Monroe Hall has daily events along with exercise and dance classes — from folk dancing and jazzercise sessions to square dancing and hoe downs. Swing, cha-cha and waltz with your partner into the night in this charming and lively hall, learning some new impressive moves along the way. Vaccination is required but masks are optional. Prices range from free to $20 per session, depending on event or class type.
1400 West College Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-824-1008, monroe-hall.com
Jeremiah Kahmoson mountain biking in Annadel-Trione State Park, Santa Rosa, California. (Jerry Dodrill Photography)
Call it the bond forged on two wheels. Rooted in the ruggedness of the local terrain, Sonoma’s bike community is both tight-knit and super-welcoming. Whether you’re a stoked beginner or a grizzled pro, a road warrior or a queen of the mountain, here’s a handle on the rides, the gear, the eats—and some of the outstanding local riders you’ll meet along the way.
Home-Grown and Growing Huge: Sonoma’s Own Grasshopper Race Series
Miguel Crawford has a knack for seeing around corners, glimpsing the future. The former elite mountain biker is the man behind the Grasshopper Adventure Series, a string of uniquely fun, slightly sadistic, gravel-centric sufferfests he describes as “magical mystery tours through the diverse, challenging, and eclectic hills of Sonoma County and beyond.”
The casual, lo-fi, friendly vibe of “Hoppers,” as they’re known, have now beguiled generations of riders, from weekend warriors to rising local stars to world champion mountain biker Kate Courtney and former pro road racers such as Alison Tetrick, Peter Stetina, and Ted King, who describes Crawford’s series as “the OG”—the Original Gangster of the gravel events that have spiked in popularity over the last decade.
The elite riders taking the start at Crawford’s events don’t need to register for Grasshopper events. But they want to. “No one’s telling me to be here,” says top rider Alex Wild. “I don’t have to put them on my schedule. But Mig just puts on such good events, it makes people want to ride them.” The season-opening Low Gap Hopper is a mixed terrain, technical climbing course.
February’s Huffmaster Hopper is 90 miles of rolling gravel roads and tarmac, with fewer climbs. April’s Lake Sonoma is a classic mountain biking track. The person who wins the overall series, Wild concluded, “is an all-around great bike rider.”
Sitting on the ground near the finish of April’s Lake Sonoma race, a portrait in exhaustion, was 60-year-old Erik Schmidt, an environmental consultant from Fairfax. Schmidt returned to the Grasshopper series this spring after a 20-year hiatus. Back then, when Hoppers were in their infancy, they had had a more underground feel. “There was no entry fee, no race numbers. You showed up, they gave you a scrap of paper so you knew the course, and off you went,” he recalled. “Now it’s an official event, it’s a big deal. But the vibe is as cool as ever.”
Sonoma’s own grasshopper race series. (Kim Carroll)
Pump It Up
A pump track is a series of rollers and berms that you wheel around, ideally never having to actually pedal, instead using your momentum, center of gravity, and the angle of track features to “pump” your way around the track. Want to try it? There’s a free public one at Northwest Community Park in Santa Rosa.
“It’s really fun to watch the kids out there,” says Doug McKenzie, who helped create it. “Once kids get the hang of it, they’re whipping around the track.”
2880 W. Steele Lane, Santa Rosa.
Hall of Fame: Riders Who Put Sonoma on the Map
Laura Charameda: A member of the US National Team from 1993 to 1998, Charameda won two National Criterium Championships and a bronze medal at Worlds. @lauracharameda
Larissa Connors: A pro mountain biker and Montgomery High School graduate, Connors won the grueling Leadville 100 in Colorado—twice. @larissaconnors
Steven Cozza: The former pro road cyclist also helped spearhead the overturn of the ban preventing LGBTQ+ people from openly participating in the Boy Scouts. @stevencozza
Yuri Hauswald: The former Petaluma teacher was a two-time solo winner of the 24 Hours of Adrenaline and 9th place finisher at the 2006 24-Hour World Championships. @yhauswald
Ted King: The Professional World Tour road racer divides his time between Healdsburg and Richmond, Vermont. @iamtedking
Luke Lamperti: Sebastopol-born Lamperti won seven agegroup youth national championships and this April, at the age of 18, was the youngest-ever winner of the U.S. men’s pro criterium. @lukelamperti
Levi Leipheimer: Olympic bronze medalist, three-time winner of the Tour of California, and the man behind one of Sonoma’s best-loved charity rides, Levi’s GranFondo. @levileipheimer
Top rider Peter Stetina. (Kim Carroll)
Peter Stetina: A Grand Tour road racer turned top-level gravel and endurance mountain biker, Stetina also partners with Healdsburg hotels to offer one-of-a-kind cycling adventures. @pstetina
Alison Tetrick: The Petaluma High School grad rode in prestigious road cycling races including the Tour of California and is now burning up the gravel circuit nationwide. @amtetrick
Tyler Williams: Williams moved to Santa Rosa to train when he was 19 and has been here ever since. Currently, he rides for UCI Continental team L39ION of Los Angeles. @twcycling
High-Viz Jerseys
Rick Pepper of Windsor runs Elevengear Cycling, with a line of U.S.-made cycling kits based off high-visibility patterns used on emergency vehicles in Europe. “They’re like Listerine for the eyes,” Pepper says. “When you’re out riding on the road, being outlandishly, garishly visible is great.” 707-824-2007, elevengear.com
Ron Murdock-Perriera at his Smith & Bergen bike shop in Petaluma. (Courtesy of Ron Murdock-Perriera)
Gear with a Mission
As a native of Guyana and more recently a resident of Brooklyn, Ron Murdock-Perriera brought a fresh perspective when he opened the Smith & Bergen bike shop in his adopted hometown of Petaluma in March 2021.
In addition to selling gear and servicing bikes, Murdock-Perriera hopes to put a dent in cycling’s reputation as sport that needs to work on its diversity. So far it’s been a bumpier ride than he expected, and he’s working hard to source from brands that share his value of inclusiveness. But business is picking up, and he greets everyone who walks in with a friendly hello.
“I don’t break people into categories,” Murdock-Perriera says. “If you ride a bike, you’re a cyclist.”
Sonoma’s own Team Swift, coached by former national champ Laura Charameda, is one of the top road cycling development programs anywhere—notable alumni include Tyler Williams and Luke Lamperti.
“We use the bicycle and their love of the bike to teach life skills,” says Charameda. “They have to talk to the public and write reports.
They’re great ambassadors for our community.” Five top Team Swift riders are traveling to the Junior Tour of Ireland this summer, and the entire team is looking forward to the local Cycle with Champions fundraiser in October, open to all. facebook.com/TeamSwift
Two area mountain bike teams, the Annadel A-Team and the West County Composite, also help shape young talent. Pro rider Larissa Connors is one of the coaches of the 90-member-strong Annadel A-Team, and the West County Composite squad, coached by elite racer Mike Warren, recently won their division at the NorCal Interscholastic Cycling League championships.
Jeremy Sycip, builder of custom bikes. (Chris Hardy / For Sonoma Magazine)
The Frame Maker
For cyclists who have unusual sizes or specific needs, buying bikes off the rack doesn’t always cut it. That’s where Santa Rosa’s Jeremy SyCip comes in, measuring device in hand.
SyCip has built a cult following for his custom bikes, helping thousands of cyclists of all shapes and abilities ride better. Store bought bikes, explains SyCip, are made for the masses. Assembly-line manufacturers can’t know who’s going to ride a bike, “so they have to kind of overbuild it.”
SyCip’s frames start at $2,500, with wheels and other components additional. That’s not wildly more expensive than comparable retail bikes, and with custom made, you know the bike is going to feel right from the first pedal stroke.
Long before adventure racing really took off, Tom “Snap” Gonnella dreamed up the now-legendary Ring of Fire mountain bike race. “It was like Bikestock,” says Gonnella, who owned Gianni Cycling in Occidental at the time and ran the race on mostly private lands west of town from 1993 to 1998.
The archway atop the starting line was wrapped in a thick blanket of poison oak. Huge stands of the noxious weed had to be cleared by hand along the 4.5-mile singletrack course. “That’s why we called it the Ring of Fire,” says Gonnella. The race’s main sponsor was Tecnu, the poison oak remedy. The National Off-Road Bicycle Association refused to partner with Gonnella because they thought the course was too dangerous. “Everybody kept saying, ‘You can’t do this,’” Gonnella remembers. “So I presented a plan and went to the county and they gave me a permit and I bought my own insurance and I did it myself.”
Every race started with a cannon shot, usually blanks, except for one year when organizers shot a real cannonball through someone’s truck. They roasted pigs. They cooked beans in a giant cauldron to supply endless burritos. Kegs of beer flowed nonstop and so did live music. Volunteers lined the dam of a pond with haybales so they could “snowboard” down the face and dive into the water. And it wasn’t uncommon to see racers fly by buck naked, Gonnella says.
“I don’t think it could ever be replicated,” he says. “It was like the renaissance of biking was really coming alive in West County. It was pretty epic.”
Top 5 Indie Bike Shops
Russian River Cycle Service: Owner Brian Borchers builds frames as part of his B-Side bicycles line, but his focus is renting bikes. 6559 Front St., Forestville. 707-887-2453. russianrivercycles.com
Spoke Folk Cyclery: Building upon the legend of the “Healdsburg Wheelmen” formed in 1895, this Healdsburg favorite sells, rents, and customfits bikes – and shares all their favorite local rides. 201 Center St., Healdsburg. 707-433-7171. spokefolk.com
The Hub Cyclery: From shock overhauls to custom builds, this locally owned Cotati treasure will take care of your ride. Owners Chaz and Claire Fetrow always have a tip for a new route. 7880 Old Redwood Hwy., Cotati. 707-795-6670. thehubcyclery.com
Windsor Bike and Sport: Open since 1999, this downtown Windsor hub lives by the motto: “Never leave your bike at home.” 9078 Windsor Road, Windsor. 707-836-9111. windsorbikeandsport.com
Sebastopol Bike Center: Selling new and used bikes and renting cruisers, this downtown Sebastopol shop is a perfect starting point for West County routes. 6731 Sebastopol Ave, Sebastopol. 707-829-2688. sebastopolbike.com
Spoke Folk bike mechanic Drew Merritt installs new cabling. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Santa Rosa’s bike share program is finally set to launch later this fall, with e-bikes available at area SMART train stations. (Courtesy of Sonoma County Transportation Authority)
GOOD NEWS: Santa Rosa’s bike share program, stuck in limbo due to supply-chain issues, is finally set to launch later this fall, with snazzy turquoise e-bikes available at area SMART train stations.
The Helpers
Redwood Trails Alliance: “More trails, better trails” is the unofficial motto of this volunteer trail-building, outdoor advocacy, and environmental stewardship organization. trailsalliance.org
Operation Bicycle: A program of Teen Services Sonoma, this community bike shop sells bikes and offers maintenance and repair services to both local teens and the general public. 207 Nino Marco Square, Sonoma. 707-343-7223
Community Bikes: Founded in 2003, this nonprofit offers classes in bike repair and maintenance to anyone regardless of age, skill level, or financial status. Restored bikes are sold to the public. 4019 Sebastopol Rd., Santa Rosa. 707-579-5811, communitybikessantarosa.org
Best Beginner Rides
On a Road Bike: Santa Rosa to Sebastopol via the Joe Rodota Trail, 8.5 miles. If you’re feeling ready, continue towards Forestville another 5.5 miles via the West County Regional Trail.
On a Mountain Bike: In Windsor’s Foothill Regional Park, the 3-mile loop from the Oakwood Trail to Alta Vista to the Three Lakes Trail has around 500 feet of climbing, perfect to get your tires dirty for the first time.
On a Gravel or Adventure Bike: The Willow Creek Trail fire roads run 18 miles from outside the town of Occidental all the way to the coast. Make an out-and-back ride of any distance you like.
On an E-Bike: Kenwood’s vineyard-studded Lawndale Loop, about 7.5 miles: Warm Springs Road to Lawndale Road to Schultz Road and back to the start via a short stint along Highway 12.
Jeremiah Kahmoson mountain biking in Annadel-Trione State Park in Santa Rosa. (Jerry Dodrill Photography)Romany McNamara mountain biking on Willow Creek trail in west Sonoma County. (Jerry Dodrill Photography)
Best Apps
Sonoma County has a dizzying array of routes that can make trip-planning a challenge—these tools can help riders navigate.
Ride with GPS: Features hundreds of crowd-sourced routes in the county, including the Santa Rosa Cycling Club’s entire library of rides. Navigate turn by turn and pinch to zoom in on elevation gains ahead. The app can be used offline, a major plus when exploring Sonoma’s wild places. ridewithgps.com
Google Maps: The gold standard for automotive maps also comes in handy for cycling adventures. Pick a destination, select the bike icon, press start and away you go. If you sync to headphones, you can listen to the directions as you ride. maps.google.com
Trailforks: Particularly great for mountain bikers, this app includes more than 160,000 trails sourced from riders around the world. Maps can be downloaded for offline use, and there’s an emergency function that will generate your GPS coordinates and the name of the nearest trail should you get too far out there. trailforks.com
Strava: Most useful for keeping score and showing off. All uploaded rides deliver automatic rankings of your times, which others in your network can view and comment on. Route planning functions and the app’s real-time locator feature are behind a paywall. strava.com
The Advocates
The Sonoma County Bike Coalition was founded after several cyclists were hit by cars in high-profile accidents. “They got together and said, ‘We need an advocacy group to make cycling safer and to get our elected officials to take this seriously,’” says executive director Eris Weaver.
Over 20 years later, the nonprofit has 900 paid members and “we don’t have to go begging anymore–jurisdictions come to us to ask our input.”
On July 17, the group presents Ciclovia, a freewheeling celebration of everything bike in Petaluma. bikesonoma.org
Santa Rosa’s Taco Tuesday Rides
When buddies Juan Chavez and Chad Hunt started Taco Tuesday bike rides in downtown Santa Rosa in the spring of 2021, it was mostly to offer friends something different to do and to provide some social engagement after a year’s worth of pandemic isolation. “We started just to get people outside, get people together, have a good time,” Chavez said. “We started because people were bored.” But a year in, this weekly ride is regularly pulling in somewhere close to 70 riders on some evenings and couldn’t be contained if you tried. “It’s its own beast now,” he said. “Why stop having a good time?”
It works like this: Riders of all skill levels, aboard everything from stretch cruisers to beach bombers, many laden with boom boxes and portable speakers, meet at a downtown park before heading out on a meandering, musicfi lled roll through town. They point west to Sebastopol Avenue, where they stop in Roseland for a taco truck dinner at a 25-foot communal table, before returning downtown. The rules are simple: Be safe, be courteous, be friendly, and have fun. That last part is the easiest of all requirements.
Neighbors along the route have come to expect, and love, the weekly rolling parade. “They will literally be sitting on their front porch waiting for us to come by,” Chavez says.
The whole concept has lasted longer than Chavez expected. With its growing numbers and contagious fun, the event has clearly met a community need. “Sometimes I’m in awe of what’s happening,” he said. “We have such stressful lives with everything going on in the world. Let’s listen to good music, get on a bike, have good food, and be with good people.”
Rides open to all. Meet at Santa Rosa’s Humboldt Park, 1172 Humboldt St., every Tuesday night at 5:45 p.m. Wheels up at 6:15 p.m.
Riders heading down McDonald Avenue on their way to the taco trucks in the Roseland neighborhood during the Santa Rosa Taco Tuesday Bike Ride in Santa Rosa. (Erik Castro/For The Press Democrat)
Bikes with Soul
If you wonk out on textbook-perfect TIG welds and minute millimeters of adjustment, then Sean Walling is your bike builder.
The owner of Soulcraft Cycles, a custom workshop in Petaluma, Walling builds race-ready, steel-frame bikes with an old-school, normcore vibe. No flashy gimmicks here: just an honest, high-performance ride with a steel nameplate that oozes understated cool.
How cool was this? High up in the results list from April’s Grasshopper event at Lake Sonoma, mixed in with names widely known in American pro cycling circles, were a pair of teenage siblings from Sebastopol.
There was Vida Lopez de San Roman, a high school sophomore, third in the women’s pro category, though the 16-year-old is used to standing a bit higher on the podium. Since she started racing as a 9-yearold, she has won two age-group national championships in cyclocross and another in mountain biking.
Men’s winner Alex Wild needed a burst in the final miles to hold off Vida’s older brother Ian. The gregarious 18-year-old finished the grueling, 25-mile loop just 17 seconds behind Wild–but 6 ½ and 9 minutes, respectively, ahead of ex-pro road riders Ted King and Levi Leipheimer.
There is considerable athleticism, and some elite cycling chops, in the family tree.
Vida and Ian’s father played professional tennis. Their mother was a dancer, and their aunt twice competed for the U.S. Olympic team in mountain biking.
Despite that pedigree, Vida resisted bike racing for a long time, until a fateful Wednesday evening in Howarth Park nine years ago. “We weren’t riding very seriously,” Ian recalled, “then one of our friends told us to show up for DirtCrits” —races against other kids around a dirt track above Spring Lake. “It’s kind of like, pay $5, get destroyed.
It was super-fun,” said Ian. (DirtCrits are back this summer at Howarth Park; Instagram @thebikepeddler for info.)
Vida now gravitates toward cyclocross and mountain biking, while Ian prefers longer road and gravel events–50 miles, 100 miles or more–which reward his endurance and high threshold for suffering. As they get older, wiser, and stronger, watch out for these two. It won’t be long before everyone knows their names.
Brother and sister Vida and Ian Lopez de San Roman hit the trails at Trione-Annadel State Park in Santa Rosa. (Chad Surmick/The Press Democrat)
Bike Fitting 101
Russian River Cycle Service owner Brian Borchers says he regularly sees a lot of “smoke and mirrors” when it comes to bike fitting, with some experts charging hundreds of dollars for a fit session. “But the majority of people just need their saddle height set right,” he says. russianrivercycles.com
• Saddle height is often most important for beginners, explains Borchers. “If you’re not getting proper leg extension, it robs you of a lot of your power.” For a good fit, Borchers asks riders to sit on the seat with their feet on the ground. When the seat is at a good height, the rider should should be almost on their tiptoes, with their heels in the air and the balls of their feet resting on the ground.
• Bike fitting is a process. Borchers suggests riders make one fitting change at a time, and that they ride at least three or four times between changes to see if the fit makes a difference.
The Church of the Bike
Meet Tim Nicholls, the burly-bearded reverend behind Cycle Chvrch Cycles in Petaluma. “I work all week trying to take care of my family, and on Sundays I try not to do anything but ride. So getting out on a bike is like going to church for me,” he says, by way of explaining the name.
First set of wheels: A Mongoose BMX hand-me-down from his older brother.
Shop niche: 80% service and 20% new or used bikes.
On the walls: Old tools passed on from his grandfather, a library of old trail maps and maintenance books—and a few statues of the Virgin Mary.
Testimonial: “If somebody tries to open a bike shop to make any money, they’re a silly person and they’re in the wrong game. You’re here because you love it, and this is what you want to do.”
Tim Nicholls, the burly-bearded reverend behind Cycle Chvrch Cycles in Petaluma. (Courtesy of Matt Sharkey)
Bikes That Travel
BikePartners is a Santa Rosa bike shop that sells and rents folding bikes, perfect for commuting or for travel, from companies like Brompton, Tern, and Ritchey. Just visiting? They’ll meet you at your hotel and drop off a folding bike that can be stashed in the trunk of a rental car.
Experienced road cyclists love the challenge of Highway 1 along the Sonoma Coast, with its long descents, sharp curves, and jaw-dropping views— for many, it’s an at-least-once-in-your-lifetime kind of ride. But for a much more chill beachfront trip, perhaps one with family in tow, try pedaling along the paved beach access road at Doran Regional Park, then loop over to Bodega Bay’s tiny downtown for some fresh crab sandwiches. parks.ca.gov,parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov
Tour the Vineyards
Three great rides into the heart of Wine Country.
Sonoma Valley: Begin in downtown Glen Ellen near the market, then head west via rolling Dunbar Road and Highway 12 to Kenwood, through the prettiest section of the valley. Make an outand- back loop of any length you like: it’s about 7 miles one-way to St. Francis Winery, and along the way, you’ll pass the wine caves at Deerfield Ranch and the roaring bear sculpture in front of St. Anne’s Crossing. Loop back via Lawndale Road and twisty Warm Springs Road for a change of scenery. Best eats: wood-fired pizzas and gelato at Kenwood’s VJB winery.
Alexander Valley: Begin in downtown Geyserville and head southeast via Highway 128. Along the way, take a peek at the stunning modern architecture at high-end Silver Oak or broad valley vistas at Hanna Winery. It’s a little over 10 miles one-way to the junction with Chalk Hill Road, where you can either decide to push on towards Windsor or loop back to the start, perhaps with a side trip along Pine Flat Road to Red Winery Road to mix things up. Best eats are back where you started in Geyserville at Diavola Pizzeria & Salumeria.
Dry Creek Valley: Begin in downtown Healdsburg and head northwest from town on Dry Creek Road. It’s about 7.5 miles one-way through the heart of the valley, past favorites like Unti Vineyards and Mauritson, to the junction with Yoakim Bridge Road. Turn left on Yoakim Bridge Road, then left again at the junction with West Dry Creek Road. Cross back over to Dry Creek Road at Lambert Bridge Road, then back to town for a total loop of about 16 miles. Best eats along the way are fresh peaches from Dry Creek Peach and sandwiches from the landmark Dry Creek General Store.
Biking on West Dry Creek Road in Healdsburg. (Kim Carroll)A pit stop at Dry Creek General Store. (Kim Carroll)
Dream Rides
Riders come from all over to experience the best of Sonoma’s rural byways. For maps of these picks plus more dream rides, check out the top ten list from the Santa Rosa Cycling Club: srcc.com/TGR.
King Ridge: Park near Cafe Aquatica from Jenner, then take Highway 116 to Cazadero, head out King Ridge Road, to Tin Barn Road. Descend to Hauser Bridge Road, to Seaview Road (where water is available at the top of the climb). Then take Fort Ross Road, descending to Meyers Grade Road to Highway 1, and back toward Jenner.
The Geysers Loop: Take Highway 128 to Red Winery Road, then wind up Geysers Road to Cloverdale and back.
Coleman Valley Road: Starting in Occidental, ride up steep Coleman Valley Road to the coast. Ride north on Highway 1 for a bit, then loop back on Willow Creek Road.
Coleman Valley Road.Medio riders climb Coleman Valley Road during the King Ridge GranFondo. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)
Calling All Women Mountain Bikers
Hella Joy Rides are social, nobody-left behind rides for women who love the trail, winding through Annadel for a couple of hours before circling back to the Trailhouse for sandwiches, soft pretzels—and most likely a beer. July 17, August 6, and September 10; trailhousesantarosa.com for info.
An Ode to Annadel
Mountain bike advocate Jake Bayless has been exploring the trails at Trione-Annadel State Park for over 40 years. Here, in his own words, is what the park means to generations of local mountain bikers.
Adventure reigns: “The thing that stuck with me as a kid is that sense of adventure. Annadel is surrounded on three sides by the city of Santa Rosa, but as a kid, I didn’t realize that. I just felt like it was an adventurous place to go. I still feel that every time I hit the South Burma Trail. I have that renewed sense of nostalgia, looking around and thinking ‘This is fantastic. I’m lost and I’m also safe. This is high adventure.’”
A change in perspective: “For the vast majority of people in the Santa Rosa plains, you spend your life looking up at Fountaingrove, looking up at Hood Mountain, looking up at Bennett Peak. So to be able to get way up into the hills in the park, and to have a completely different view of the mountains and the valleys around—it’s a change of perspective that I would encourage everybody to experience.”
Level up: “There are not many places that are so family friendly, a safe environment for kids to go play on bikes. Then I was also able to show my kids the next level up, the next skill set, whether it was getting over a rock or going way up into the mountains for adventure. And on a hot summer afternoon, there’s nothing quite as fun or as rewarding after a hard ride than hopping into Lake Ilsanjo. In Annadel, there’s always something more, another carrot around the bend.”
Jeremiah Kahmoson mountain biking in Annadel-Trione State Park in Santa Rosa. (Jerry Dodrill Photography)Jeremiah Kahmoson mountain biking in Annadel-Trione State Park in Santa Rosa. (Jerry Dodrill Photography)
Best Pit Stops
Stopping along the way is a must on long, grinding rides— all the better if there’s good food and coffee. After all, as the joke goes, most cyclists are actually in it for the pastries.
Clockwise from center, The Boho Bowl, gluten-free summer squash tartlets, Mochi donuts, Earl Grey polenta olive oil cakes, at The Altamont General Store in Occidental. (Beth Schlanker/Sonoma Magazine)Bread from Quail and Condor Bakery in Healdsburg. (Emma K. Morris)
Salumeria Ovello: 248 W. Napa St., Sonoma. 707-721-1478, ovellosonoma.com
Alex Rodriquez performs a wheelie on his bike while riding around with his friends at Old Courthouse Square in Santa Rosa. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)Devan Tucker leans back to touch the ground while performing a wheelie on his bike at Old Courthouse Square in Santa Rosa. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
The Wheelie Crew
Santa Rosa’s Old Courthouse Square has become a gathering spot for kids involved in the “bikelife movement”—a community of riders who perform tricks in parks and on streets and post videos of their stunts to social media. Alan Cortes, who started riding and learning tricks with his buddies during the pandemic, sees the overall movement as a positive: “Most people are inside being unhealthy and staying in doing nothing, but we’re out here exercising.”
By John Beck, Kerry Benefield, Derek Moore, Austin Murphy, Abigail Peterson, and Ethan Varian
Buffalo chicken empanadas at Vinoma in Rohnert Park. (Courtesy of Vinoma)
Click through the above gallery to see the eight Sonoma County restaurants that made the Yelp Top 100 list.
Vinoma, a gourmet empanada shop in Rohnert Park, has been named the No. 1 place to eat in the Bay Area, according to Yelp.
The Top 100 list released on Monday by the review site that’s often the bane of restaurant owners said the hidden gem has “the best empanadas hands down in the Bay Area.”
The Argentinian-style empanadas are flaky, delicious pockets of dough filled with meat, cheese, vegetables and fruit. Our favorites include beef Carne Suave with scallions, red onions, olives, chopped eggs and spices; the steak and cheese empanada; the al pastor with caramelized pineapple; and the less-traditional plum and bacon empanada. Don’t miss the Apple Crisp for dessert, along with shortbread cookies (alfajores) filled with dulce de leche.
A group of Yelp’s community managers curated the list, covering restaurants from Healdsburg to Santa Cruz, based on various criteria such as “spots are undeniably the tastiest, vibiest and liveliest based on local reviews.” Other methodology included the total volume and ratings of reviews, according to a news release.
Click through the above gallery go see the eight Sonoma County restaurants that made the list. See the full list and map here.
Midcentury lovers have something to swoon over on Healdsburg’s Chalk Hill Road: A 3-bedroom, 2-bath 1960s home is for sale for $1,895,000.
A steeply pitched roof adds dramatic style to the 1,900-square-foot home, which, according to the listing, was designed in the spirit of Argentine architect Eduardo Catalano. Catalano is famous for the iconic Raleigh House in North Carolina, which was built in 1954 and featured a 4,000-square-foot hyperbolic paraboloid roof (a warped roof similar in shape to a shoehorn or a Pringles potato chip). Similar roofs can be seen on many midcentury buildings; the roof on the Healdsburg home is made out of concrete, which should provide some fire resistant properties.
The home on Chalk Hill Road has floor-to-ceiling, two-story windows that allow for a seamless transition between the indoors and outdoors and showcase the mature oaks on the property. Daylight floods the living space, which connects to the kitchen. At night, the moon and stars can be seen through the windows.
Midcentury design elements can be found throughout the home, like Nelson Bubble lamps, a sizable wall tapestry and a rounded, stainless wood-burning stove. The deck, which overlooks west Sonoma County, has room for several seating areas and the property’s 3.2 acres allow space for a pool, a sizable garden and has space for pets to roam (there’s a built in dog run). A forest borders the property, along with a vineyard, so the home’s residents can enjoy the views just beyond the property line. There’s also a permanent outdoor tent for an at-home glamping experience—a good option for outdoor-loving guests.
This home at 8700 Chalk Hill Road is listed by Ryan Anderton with Sonoma Realty Group, 707-244-7181, sonomarealtygroup.com
A turn-of-the-century 2-bedroom, 2-bathroom Victorian on Sebastopol’s Main Street is currently listed (and under contract) for $979,000.
The home, which is also zoned for commercial use, was built in 1900 and has been carefully updated and modernized. The narrow siding is in great shape and shines brightly in teal paint. All of the old-school charm remains: the wrap-around porch, the round scalloping in the gables, the large stairway approach to the door.
The interior details of the 1372-square-foot home reflect current design trends. Farmhouse favorite shiplap, for example, makes an appearance inside the home, which boasts high ceilings and has been outfitted with modern moldings and trims. Meanwhile, the traditional ornamental style of Victorian homes is referenced in ornate crystal chandeliers. The kitchen has been upgraded with modern appliances and boasts a more transitional style in the cabinets and trims.
In the bathroom, modern tiles and angular fixtures blend well with more traditional-looking cabinets. An oversized Hokusai wave decal above the tub illustrates that vintage decor and modern design can happily inhabit the same home.
Outdoors, a newly-built deck with a side wall is a blank canvas for a seating area and some hanging plants. The large yard includes garden beds, a chicken coop and workshop area.
While the beauty of living in a historic home often comes with some practical inconveniences, like outdated heating and electrical systems, that’s not the case here. According to listing agent Adam Menconi, the duct work has been covered, the floors have radiant heat, and the electrical system has been updated from a knob and tube system. Solar panels have been added to the property, so the new owners can enjoy 19th century aesthetics with 21st century energy efficiency.
Click through the above gallery to take a look inside the home.
This home at 660 South Main Street in Sebastopol is listed with Adam Menconi with Prosper Real Estate, 707-396-2687, adam@prospermoves.com, prospermoves.com
A tray full of ribs and brisket and all the fixings of Austin’s Southern Smoke BBQ at Old Possum Brewing Co. in Santa Rosa. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)
From blister-charred brisket and tri-tip to barbacoa tacos from Mexico, Sonoma’s BBQ traditions run wide and deep. Here’s our guide to the county’s top spots. Plus, meet the Mississippi-raised local pitmaster whose pulled pork, ribs, and sides stack up against the very best.
Click through the above gallery for must-try barbecue dishes.
The brisket emerges from the smoker, glistening with a rich cloak of melty fat that peeks out from beneath charred edges. The aroma is mouthwatering, and Santa Rosa pitmaster Kris Austin handles the bundle gently, almost as if cradling a newborn. It’s been nearly 24 hours since Austin handpicked the slab of heritage beef, raised locally by rancher Joe Matos. By now, the brisket’s been slow-smoked some eight hours over oak and almond wood, then rested in a warming cabinet for another 12 hours before being sliced, thickly and generously, for the plate.
All in all, it’s a pilgrimage—and one for the chef, too. Born in Memphis, Tennessee, and raised in rural Abbeville, Mississippi, pitmaster Kris Austin launched Austin’s Southern Smoke BBQ in Santa Rosa in 2020. But he started working around the family BBQ pit when he was just 10 years old.
“Backyard barbecue was one of those things that our family always had around, because that’s how we spent time together,” says Austin. “Thanksgiving and Christmas and Sunday dinners were the only real indoor meals we’d eat.”
Kris Austin of Austin’s Southern Smoke BBQ at Old Possum Brewing Co. in Santa Rosa. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)
Working with a 55-gallon metal barrel they’d cut in half to make a drum grill and smoker, the family soaked up the ritual of the ‘cue. Austin’s grandfather worked as a cattleman, and his father raised hogs and chickens. For larger cuts, they built a 10-foot-by-10-foot smokehouse with an attachment to hold local oak and pecan logs.
But it was that soot-blackened drum smoker that Austin’s family looked forward to gathering around. “We used that thing for years, until the bottom burned out of it,” Austin says. “Then we made a new one and started all over again.”
Often enough, all it took was someone to announce they were hungry for the grandparents to call everyone over to their house for a big, impromptu burger party, with patties plopped on homemade buns that were always in the pantry.
“The only thing we went to the store for was milk, flour, and sugar,” Austin recalls. He caught catfish, and the family grew all their own vegetables. It never occurred to them to sell their fare, no matter how much they cooked. “We just had a big enough family, so that’s what we did for leisure activities. We were always together, and it was always one of those things you could count on.”
All that changed when Austin won a college football scholarship to William Penn University in Iowa. He met his wife on campus—and, lucky for us, she was born in Sonoma County. The couple moved to Sonoma in 2012, and Austin began working as a personal trainer. “I was kind of over the slowness of Southern life, and I was ready for something new,” he says. “I got to travel to a lot of different cities, see the pace and see the people, and broaden my horizons. And I would always eat barbecue everywhere I went.”
He bought his own 55-gallon drum from Walmart, later upgrading to a professional oset smoker, stoking his love of backyard flame between working with fitness clients. One day, a client asked him if he would cater a barbecue party for her 50th birthday. “I was like, ‘I don’t know if I want to put myself on that kind of a scale just yet,’” he says. “She said, ‘It’s not going to be that many of us, maybe 30 or 40 people,’ and talked me into it.”
The client loved his food, and he had a blast.
“It was a hustle and pressure, but I’m a people person, so it was great being around their intimate family, back in that environment with such camaraderie.”
Locally cured oak and almond wood create the smoke. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)
Austin keeps the seasonings simple: granulated garlic, salt, and pepper. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)
After his personal training work slowed during the pandemic, Austin doubled down on BBQ. He got business guidance from friends, including Peter White of Sugo Trattoria in Petaluma and Maraline Olson of Screamin’ Mimi’s in Sebastopol, and started catering out of his Santa Rosa home. Last summer, he opened a pop-up at Old Possum Brewing, where he built quite a following.
This spring, he left the brewery, taking his growing business to weekly markets in Santa Rosa and Windsor. He’s also planning to teach barbecue classes and cater more events with a new custom trailer set to arrive in the fall.
There’s a real art to shaping the brisket for the smoker, explains Austin. “Aerodynamic, like a bullet. Not too thick, not too thin, to cook very evenly.” He trims the brisket to a quarter-inch of fat, then massages in salt and pepper, so the umami flavor shines.
Coaxing exquisite tenderness, just a gentle hint of smoky flavor, and that perfect pink ring is an all-day aair, as Austin nudges the temperatures up or down, depending on the mix of meats sharing the 8-foot-by-2.5foot G Stacks smoker.
Between hours of shoveling wood and ash, Austin crafts side dishes from scratch: sweet, crackly-crust cornbread, savory collard greens dotted with smoked turkey, fries, pickled onions, and coleslaw. He also makes two kinds of sauces: a sweet heat of vinegar, ketchup, molasses, brown sugar, and spices, plus a vinegar-mayo based white sauce that turns pinkish with smoked paprika.
It may be 11 p.m. before the brisket is ready.
“If I probe the meat and it feels tender, I pull it,” he says. “I read the temperature sometimes, but I can feel and understand texture. I know a lot of people think it’s crazy, but touching it is the old way for a lot of the great pitmasters out there. I’m not scarred up, but roughed up, for sure. It takes a lot of time to build up callouses on your hands so you can feel it without being in excruciating pain—fresh skin and nerves, yeah.”
A full rack of ribs, straight from the smoker, glistening with melted fat. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)
Collard greens by Kris Austin of Austin’s Southern Smoke BBQ. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)Kris Austin of Austin’s Southern Smoke BBQ. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)
Finally, he goes home, waking at 6:30 the next day to get his children to school, before returning to work. Then, and only then, is the meat ready to be sliced, cut into slabs, pulled, or chopped.
“Coming into the kitchen on a Saturday, my mother and grandmother would always be cooking dishes to be ready for Sunday dinner, because they always had the notion that the flavors meld and become more powerful,” he explains. “They have time to sit and love on each other.”
He mops a trace of sweat from his forehead, and smiles.
“It’s those traditions I like to keep going—and bring that Southern love to Sonoma County.”
Austin’s Southern Smoke BBQ
At the Wednesday Night Market in downtown Santa Rosa, the Friday Night Live street fair in Cloverdale, and occasional Thursday farmers markets in Windsor. Plus pop-ups at the Veterans Memorial Building in Santa Rosa on July 15, July 29, and August 26— first come, first served.
Check @austins_smoke_bbq on Instagram or austinssouthernsmokebbq.com.
More Outstanding Local ‘Cue
Barbecue To Groove To–BBQ Smokehouse Bistro
Owner-Pitmaster: Larry Vito
Must try: The four meat platter with 20-hour smoked Texas beef brisket, 18-hour smoked North Carolina pulled pork, Southern Louisiana smoked chicken thighs, and 7-hour smoked, spiced, Memphis pork ribs. Layer on the sauces, too—the “original,” a thin, tomato-y brew kicked up with vinegar, soy sauce, Worcestershire and a touch of anchovy; the vinegar-tangy North Carolina sauce; or hotsweet mustard.
More: Chef Vito trained at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, was friends with James Beard, and worked at top San Francisco restaurants. But his real love is barbecue, so now he dedicates his time to an industrial smoker parked outside his tiny kitchen, stocking it with apple, oak and nut wood and coaxing out meats imbued with a ruby hue and deep smoke flavor. There’s live music most weekends, including Michael B. Serious, a Sebastopol favorite.
Must Try: The new Bourdain sandwich, in honor of culinary god Anthony Bourdain: slow ‘n’ low smoked Texas-style brisket on a toasted ciabatta bun with ham, pepper jack, arugula, chimichurri, and “crime sauce,” a spicy blend of mayo, ketchup, mustard, garlic, chopped pickles, and horseradish.
More: The roadhouse structure welcomes with a saloon interior and funky, country-charm décor, and the occasional visit by horseback riders or neighboring goats. This is fine-dining barbecue from a chef who crafts his fare with Latin American and African accents. The patio’s various mesquite and oak-fired Argentine grills, and hickory fueled smokers send forth succulent stuff like Duroc heritage breed pulled pork shoulder, pork spare ribs, and a killer hand-ground, 6-ounce, all-natural Angus brisket and chuck patty, towering with shredded iceberg, pickles, smoked and grilled onions, a house cheese blend (American, jack, and cheddar), and crime sauce on a toasted Portuguese bun.
Must Try: Beef short ribs (note: get there early—they sells fast!)
More: Crowds cheer when the shiny black, “Smoky Goodness” food truck pulls up for popups at breweries and events. Brisket, ribs, and pork boast charcoal-black exteriors and gorgeous, pink insides. Grab specials, if you’re lucky, like the El Chicano, a Southern-style take on the Cubano sandwich, layering smoked brisket, pepper jack cheese, house made pickled onions, and classic yellow mustard stacked on a Franco American hoagie roll.
Check the website for daily/weekly pop-up locations. 707-595-7427, camachosbbq.com
‘Cue With Ocean Views–Ginochio’s Kitchen
Owners-Pitmasters: The Ginochio family
Must Try: The Moo Sandwich, a messy joy with mounds of 14-hour, cherry-wood smoked, barbecue sauce-mopped brisket¤on a toasted French roll with lettuce, onion, and tomato.
More: The Ginochios are Italian, but they are known for their first-rate Texas-style barbecue. The patio’s open roof and big windows allow for spectacular views of marina boats and, occasionally, fish-stealing seals.
Must Try: The Maui Mash of smoked pulled pork and peach barbecue sauce with diced pineapple and pickled onions on a bed of kettle chips.
More: Look for the lime green and chrome truck parked next to the PeeWee Golf & Arcade. It’s pure, piggy happiness here, with gnaw-off-the-bone pork ribs, and pulled pork sandwiches topped with all kinds of goodness. Try the Volcano, with homemade jalapeño pepper jelly, crispy onions, and sriracha aioli, or the “Viet-Nom, Nom, Nom” of pickled daikon, carrot, and garliccilantro aioli. Sometimes there’s smoked pork belly, too.
Must Try: The Hawaiian BBQ plate, with dry-rubbed, 6-hour smoked baby back ribs, plus teriyaki beef and chicken, served with steamed rice, macaroni salad and braised cabbage.
More: A new Southern Pride smoker was installed this year, turning out tender brined chicken, tri-tip, linguiça sausage, and the signature ribs. Mix it up with housemade sauces, such as tangy-sweet, Memphis smoky-savory, and Cajun hotspicy.
500 East Cotati Ave., Cotati. 707-242-3383, jadedtoad.com
Feeding The Family–Kinsmoke
Owners-Pitmasters: JC Adams and Brad Barmore
Must Try: “The Whole Fam Damily” combo, loaded with a full rack of St. Louis style ribs, half a chicken, a half-pound homemade hot link, a half-pound Texas link, a half-pound of pulled pork shoulder, and 1 pound combo cut brisket (a mix of lean and gloriously fatty meat), plus your choice of eight sides, including apple-horseradish slaw, spiced sweet potato tots, and Cajun hush puppies.
More: Follow the scent of flamefed California oak and cherry wood to the big barbecue pit out back, then make your way inside for a feast. The smoke-kissed meat comes unadorned—choose from delicious sauces like zingy North Carolina vinegar, gutsy South Carolina mustard, Hellfire, Bourbon Dijon, and Alabama white.
304 Center St., Healdsburg. 707-473-8440, kinsmoke.com
Barbecue chicken with a salad and curry rice at Red Bee BBQ in Santa Rosa. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)
Asian Fusion ‘Cue–Red Bee BBQ
Owner-Pitmaster: Geer Li
Must Try: The large combo plate of spicy pulled chicken and rustred, Chinese-style barbecue pork. It’s dressed with stir-fried Thai chile peppers and fiery-sweet, chunky red chile sauce, and comes with macaroni salad and fried or white rice.
More: Chef Li comes from Beijing, China, and when asked what’s in the housemade meat marinade and sauces, replies, “chiles and a whole lot of things.” These meats are less about subtle smoke, and more about the vibrant seasonings. Big portions (1/3 pound) of brisket, pork shoulder, or St. Louis ribs slathered with a sweet glaze. It all works deliciously.
750 Stony Point Road, Santa Rosa. 707-541-6536. Also 8970 Brooks Road S., Windsor. 707-836-4099, redbeebbq.com
Southern-Style Salads–Sweet T’s Restaurant + Bar
Owners: Dennis and Ann Tussey; Pitmaster: George Ah Chin
Must Try: The house salad, with a toss of organic mixed greens, romaine, tomatoes, cucumbers, carrots, cheddar, red onion, crostini, and spicy jalapeño buttermilk dressing, crowned in your choice of quarter-pound of garlic-rubbed brisket, pulled pork, pulled chicken or tri-tip, or blackened chicken, shrimp, salmon filletor catfish.
More: Meats emerge juicy, rimmed in fuchsia-pink after a leisurely time in the Southern Pride smoker, and the cooks work wonders with the fryer and skillets, too. Salads are fresh and filling, including a loaded Caesar, spinach salad topped with paprika-cayenne ribs pulled from the bone, and mixed greens with eggs, cheddar, and fried chicken.
Regional, Radical and Rarified Tastes — War Pigs BBQ
Owner-Pitmaster: Larry Hillix
Must Try: The “Porky McPorkeson” pulled pork sandwich, topped with a housemade beef hot link, slightly sweet slaw, and tart pickles on a soft, squishy bun to soak up the tangy sauce.
More: This mobile smoker popup offers it all—blister-charred Texas style brisket, California style chicken and tri-tip, Kansas City-style pork ribs, Mexican style barbacoa tacos, smoked fried chicken, and vegetarian smoked mushroom tacos with chile sauce. The special blend of spices and rubs is inspired by the acclaimed Gary Park of G’s Slow Smoked BBQ in Florida.
Check the website for daily/weekly pop-up locations. 707-508-5551, bbqhustlers.com
Everett & Jones BBQ is opening at the Graton Resort & Casino in Rohnert Park. (Shamar Cotton / Instagram)
And some big BBQ news:
Everett and Jones BBQ, a mainstay of Oakland’s barbecue culture since 1973, is opening at Graton Resort & Casino later this summer. It’s the local chain’s first location outside the East Bay—and if you love BBQ like we do, you’re going to want to check it out. eandjbbq.com
Guests enjoying cold drinks on the patio overlooking the Russian River at Stumptown Brewery in Guerneville, Calif., on April 20, 2013. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Wine Country is also beer country — with plenty of local brews and outdoor patios to park your caboose and sip an IPA or two. Click through the above gallery for six of our favorite beer gardens in Sonoma County.
The hardworking trio behind Barber Lee Spirits in Petaluma makes spirits they like to drink. Apparently they have good taste, because the oldest and largest spirits competition in the world just declared Barber Lee’s Absinthe Blanche the best absinthe in the world.
The San Francisco World Spirits Competition, founded in 2000 and featuring entries from around the globe, awarded Barber Lee’s Absinthe Blanche “Best of Class” at its 2022 awards gala held at the Ritz Carlton in San Francisco.
Barber Lee Spirits’ Absinthe Blanche was awarded ‘Best of Class’ by the San Francisco World Spirits Competition (SFWSC). (Courtesy of Barber Lee Spirits)
“It’s a huge deal,” said Lorraine Barber, co-owner of three-year-old, family-run distillery in Petaluma. “It lets a really broad market know about our tiny, grain-to-glass production. It helps to boost our energy and boost awareness of our brand.”
The 2022 San Francisco World Spirits Competition attracted almost 5,000 entries. Blind taste tests were conducted by more than 60 judges (bartenders, bar owners, educators, and more) to determine the winners. In addition to Best of Class and Best in Show, spirits also received double gold, gold, silver and bronze awards.
To make its absinthe, Barber Lee triple distills white wine, creating a white brandy base. This process adds sweetness to counteract the bitterness typically associated with the spirit. Eight organic herbs, including wormwood, are then added to the still to steep before the spirit is distilled one final time. The result is a 130 proof absinthe with 65% alcohol.
“If you try our absinthe it’s like Good & Plenty [licorice candy] on the head. It’s anise candy,” said Barber.
Barber Lee Spirits is located in downtown Petaluma. (Courtesy of Barber Lee Spirits)
The Absinthe Blanche wasn’t the only Barber Lee spirit to catch the judges’ attention — the distillery’s Apple Brandy won double gold.
To craft their brandy, Barber Lee first makes cider from fresh-pressed Gravenstein apples from Sebastopol and then distills it and ages it for at least one year in new charred American oak. The distillery’s Single Malt Rye Whiskey and Heirloom Corn Bourbon both earned silver awards in the competition.
“It really puts some wind under our wings to just keep doing what we are doing,” said Barber.
Barber Lee Spirits’ downtown Petaluma tasting room is open Thursday through Sunday. 120 Washington St., Petaluma, 707-971-7107, barberleespirits.com
Oaxacan-style Molotes from Lucha Sabina food truck in Roseland. (Courtesy of Lucha Sabina)
Here are the latest news from Sonoma County’s dining scene.
The Nectary on the Move
The Nectary, those power juicers ready to rev up your morning, have moved from their location at The Barlow in Sebastopol to 7300 Healdsburg Ave. in Sebastopol.
If you’ve never been, it’s a fascinating trip down the rabbit hole of superfoods, teas, medicinal mushrooms (of the non-psychoactive type), nut milks, raw food and drinks that will put your morning green smoothie to shame.
A new favorite: Into the Wild Blue Yonder smoothie bowl is as pretty to look at as it is to eat, stockpiled with fruit, chia seeds, cashew mylk and ginger and colored with Blue Majik spirulina.
Open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily, 707-829-2697, thenectary.net. Also at 312 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-473-0677.
Mitote Food Park Opens
The long-awaited Mitote Food Park in Roseland has officially opened, now featuring beer, wine and Mexican-inspired cocktails along with food trucks including Lucha Sabina and Maria Machetes. One note: The Charro Negro seafood food truck that’s a Mitote standby is on hiatus as Chef Rodrigo Mendoza prepares to open Goldfinch in Sebastopol.
A ribbon-cutting celebration with sample bites from food trucks will take place 4-6 p.m. July 14. 665 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa. Facebook.com/mitotefoodpark
Caldo de Chamorro de Borrego with mushroom from Lucha Sabina in Roseland’s Mitote Food Park. (Courtesy of Lucha Sabina)Tacos with mole at Maria Machetes in Roseland’s Mitote Food Park. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Goldfinch Replaces K&L Bistro
Goldfinch is replacing K & L Bistro, which closed in May. Owners of The Livery, a forthcoming event, coworking space and food hall, purchased the longtime bistro and hope to open the restaurant this fall. According to Chef Rodrigo Mendoza, the menu will focus on plant-based ingredients with meat as a “condiment.” Stay tuned for more details.
Howard Station Cafe in Occidental has officially hit middle age! A favorite brunch spot on the way to the coast, the family-owned restaurant serves up egg-cellent omelets, buttermilk pancakes and Smash burgers. Plus, the patio is Fido-friendly and they have a secret dog menu.
Open from 7:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Friday through Wednesday (closed Thursday). 3611 Bohemian Highway, Occidental, 707-874-2838, howardstationcafe.com
(From front) The original Eggs Benedict, the Howard’s Egg Sandwich, the Howard’s Club sandwich, freshly squeezed orange juice and a cappuccino at the Howard Station Cafe in Occidental. (Beth Schlanker/Sonoma Magazine)The Belgian waffle with strawberries and cream, the original Eggs Benedict, freshly squeezed orange juice and a cappuccino at the Howard Station Cafe. (Beth Schlanker/Sonoma Magazine)
Zee’s Diner to Reopen as Brothers Cafe
The former Zee’s Diner is slated to reopen later this summer in west Santa Rosa as a breakfast-to-dinner diner. Javier and Jorge Borges, formerly of Hole in the Wall Cafe in Sebastopol, are opening their own restaurant at the oft-changing space. More details as the space gets closer to opening.
All cider tastings at Gowan’s in Philo are held outdoors in one of the family’s apple orchards. (Courtesy of Visit Mendocino)
