On five sprawling acres on the edge of Sonoma, Peter and Louise Hassen live among sculptures and succulents, bees and birdhouses, wildflowers and herb gardens. Here, on a former poultry farm, the couple has built a life where art and business thrive together.
Louise is the founder of Sonoma Apothecary, a company that produces bath and body products made with organic herbs. She’s also the head gardener for the property, which they’ve named Terraplane Farm. Her husband, Peter, is a multidisciplinary artist, working with video, painting, sculpture, photography, and printmaking. Last summer, Peter displayed three sculptures on the nearby Sonoma Plaza, part of his “Cycles” series.
The works were designed to make both visitors and residents stop to consider the challenges and opportunities of the moment.
Peter explains that his art has connections to recurring themes of nature, science, and spirituality and attempts to connect the dots between people, ideas, and cultures. “I mine the icons and memes of history, looking for commonalities in ideas from the earliest of cultures to contemporary times,” he says. “My goal is to engage viewers in conversation about issues relevant in all of our lives.”
On a former poultry farm, the couple has built a life where art and business thrive together. (Eileen Roche)
Louise and Peter met in San Francisco, then hopscotched their way northward to Sonoma. They purchased their current farm, a former poultry operation that once provided chicken, ducks, and eggs to sailors at a nearby Navy yard, in 2008. “We knew about this property from driving by it over the years and joking about walking up and making an offer.” Turns out, through lucky timing—or perhaps destiny—the Hassens were ready to move just as the farm came on the market. They made an offer immediately.
The Hassens now live in the original 1,500-square-foot, one-bedroom farmhouse, which was built in 1923. The home needed only a light touch with renovations. “Our goal then, and since, is to keep all the old charm of an original stick-built Craftsman style ‘kit house.’ It probably came off a railcar,” explains Peter. “All the 100-year-old double-hung windows still work and have the original wavy glass.”
At the time the couple moved in, very little landscaping existed. Sheets of plywood laid on bare ground formed the walkway up to the house. “The first thing we did was call Tony at Sonoma Materials and order 70 yards of half-inch crushed drain rock to get us off the mud.”
A large bronze sculpture by artist Peter Hassen anchors a path through the meadow on his Sonoma farm. (Eileen Roche)
Louise Hassen harvests herbs to use in custom bath and body products. (Eileen Roche)
Louise, who studied garden design through UC Berkeley Extension (Sonoma landscape architect Nancy Roche was one of her instructors), saw the property as a perfect blank slate on which to create a vibrant and ever-evolving series of outdoor spaces. “I wanted to create enclosed garden ‘rooms’ that felt different from each other,” Louise says. To define and enclose the different spaces, she planted hedges of flowering cherry laurel, boxwood, and Grecian bay laurel.
Inside, the rooms were finished with drought tolerant and deer resistant plants. There’s also a separate agave garden, and another plot where Louise grows cut flowers for bouquets.
Recently, Louise added an apothecary garden of healing plants like lavender, clary sage, aloe, calendula, and lemongrass, many which she uses in her line of bath and body products. She grows other plants just for their fragrance—bergamot, cistus (rockrose) and a collection of scented geraniums.
A long, low shed, formerly a poultry barn, is now shared studio space for seven local artists. (Eileen Roche)
Raised beds for flowers, herbs, and veggies are tucked throughout. (Eileen Roche)Raised beds for flowers, herbs, and veggies are tucked throughout. (Eileen Roche)
Both Peter and Louise work the edible garden, which was expanded as part of the landscape remodel. This time of year, they’re harvesting plenty of tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, and squash, and every week in summer, they are able to donate 50 pounds or more of fresh produce to local nonprofit Friends in Sonoma Helping (FISH). And in a few of the beds, more fragrant herbs, like verbascum, lemon verbena, salvia, and myrtle are grown for their good friend Alison Kilmer, founder of Sonoma’s Uppercase Tea Company.
Beyond the garden, Peter says, “the property has outdoor living for days,” with sitting areas and gathering spaces tucked into the orchard and the apothecary garden. A series of smaller outbuildings includes a farm office, a dining shed in a former garage, a water tower remade into a beautiful library, and a small barn converted into a lounge for music, dancing, and hanging out in the evening, loaded with comfy sofas and seats the couple made from wooden pallets and cushions. And seven local artists of every stripe, from landscape to abstract to pop art, work on the property in studio spaces that have been built into one of the low-slung chicken barns.
The farm’s water tower was repurposed as a library and study. (Eileen Roche)
The covered dining area, fitted into a former garage. (Eileen Roche)
As finicky Sonoma summer weather takes shape, the Hassens find the outdoor spaces offer flexibility for entertaining. One minute, the wind may be howling as it comes in over the Petaluma Gap, then suddenly it switches off. On calm nights, Louise and Peter will welcome guests at long picnic tables in the courtyard or in the garden shed and have dessert in the music lounge, which is often lit by candlelight. If it’s windy, they eat in the covered dining room. “Basically, it’s impossible to make the location call until about 15 minutes before we eat and we know what the weather is doing,” laughs Louise.
The Hassens say they’re continually inspired by the property and work to make it more resilient for the future, and more inviting to the friends and fellow artists they host. “In so many ways, we feel like caretakers for the next generation,” says Louise, “saving the traditional, rustic nature of the old chicken farm at the edge of town, but making it more livable for the 21st century.”
Peter and Louise Hassen. (Eileen Roche)
A Life in Art
“Sonoma is full of such incredibly creative people,” says Louise Hassen, noting how happy she and her husband are to find a network of fellow artists in town. A few favorites:
Leslie Whitelaw
Louise Hassen points to the high-end interior designer’s work at Frog’s Leap Winery as the epitome of simple elegance. nedforrest.com
Roche + Roche Landscape Architecture
Louise studied landscape design with principal Nancy Roche and says she admires how the firm is able to integrate “a sense of the wild” into their designs. 1055 Broadway, Sonoma. 707-933-8302, rocheandroche.com
Sonoma Mission Gardens
The local nursery has a “friendly and knowledgeable staff,” says Louise. A strong selection not only of vegetables and ornamentals, but also succulents and drought-tolerant plants. 851 Craig Ave, Sonoma. 707-938-5775, sonomamissiongardens.com
Fineline Art & Frame
Their framing is high-quality and beautifully done, says Louise, and the owners are always interested in hearing about their customers’ art projects. A lovely place to buy gift wrap, too. 201 W. Napa St., Sonoma. 707-935-3199, finelineartandframe.com
Modern Art West Gallery
A landmark downtown gallery representing the work of Bay Area artists, with a focus on postwar abstract expressionism in California. The gallery will host a solo show of Peter Hassen’s work in the fall. 521 Broadway, Sonoma. 707-210-5275, modernartwest.com
The former Jack & Tony’s in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square will reopen as 1910 Bar and Provisions later this year.
Windsor restaurateurs JC Adams and Brad Barmore of Kin and Healdsburg’s Kin Smoke will turn the long-fallow space in the historic Jacobs building into a cocktail-focused eatery with pizza, sliders and shared plates. Unlike their family-focused restaurants in Windsor and Healdsburg, 1910 Bar and Provisions will have late-night offerings and a full bar, said Adams.
“It will be somewhat like KIN in concept, with something for everyone,” said Barmore.
Known for its iconic brick facade and faded neon “Hotel” sign, the Jacobs building at 115 Fourth St. has a colorful history, most recently as a whiskey bar and modern American restaurant owned by the late Jack Mitchell. (It has been closed since Mitchell’s death in 2020.) Prior to that, it was Capri restaurant, but for many years it was known as Hotel Oliver. (Hotel Oliver was built in 1910.)
Adams and Barmore opened Kin in 2011 and barbecue restaurant Kin Smoke in 2015.
Nashville Fried Chicken at Delicious Dish in Sonoma (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Hidden well off the Sonoma Square, Delicious Dish is an inconspicuous roadhouse that flies so far under the radar that most locals don’t even know about it. And if you’re from out of town, you’d likely only find this offbeat restaurant and outdoor patio by chance.
But with some of the best comfort food around, it’s time for their close-up.
Delicious Dish’s chef/owner Lauren Cotner describes the spot as west Sonoma’s “punk rock little sister.”
Cotner loves to surprise and delight visitors with the unexpected: Snort-worthy Barbie dioramas peek from corners; in a hand-drawn sketch near the front door, SNL actor Chris Farley sports a crown. And in-the-know diners frequent the monthly Delicious Dish movie nights in costume.
You can’t not have fun here.
While sitting on the shady patio filled with blue metal chairs and wooden tables, you’ll find Delicious Dish is one of the few casual, affordable and family-friendly dining spots in the town of Sonoma. The menu isn’t a laundry list of dishes but a curated selection of Cotner’s greatest hits. Going hungry here is not an option.
With food that’s tasty and universally appealing, she and her husband, Charles, focus on nosh-worthy fried chicken sandwiches, everything-but-the-kitchen-sink salads and an often-changing lineup of sandwiches, bowls and weekly specials instead of ego-based menu showpieces.
Chef Lauren Cotner at Delicious Dish in Sonoma (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)California Fried Chicken at Delicious Dish in Sonoma (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
So why hasn’t the restaurant blown up on social media?
In recent years, the roadhouse has suffered some confusion over its mission. To meet business demands, Cotner has offered weekday to-go lunches, catering, weeknight dinners for pickup and delivery and the monthly movie night on the roadhouse’s expansive covered porch. The newly renovated outdoor dining area has a fire pit, movie screen and plenty of space for kids to roam.
The restaurant has been closed on weekends, which means missing out on visitors to Sonoma. But weekend outdoor patio service will begin July 30 (check delicious-dish.square.site for updates).
Cotner also plans to give the roadhouse a funky graffiti art makeover and will expand hours when she can find more help, a current challenge for restaurants everywhere.
Pivoting again and again has been a common response for restaurateurs facing ongoing challenges in the face of the pandemic. Sonoma County’s lack of progress in rebounding from the pandemic worries her. She’s vocal about wanting to attract new visitors with more dynamic businesses in Sonoma.
“I sometimes see parts of the downtown Plaza tumble-weeding. It can be a ghost town. Times are changing, and people need something fresh to keep them coming back,” she said.
Strawberry and blueberry milkshakes at Delicious Dish in Sonoma (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
But Cotner remains optimistic about her adopted hometown. During the pandemic, she donated hundreds of meals to neighbors in need and she pays her staff living wages. She continues to find opportunities to share Delicious Dish food with a larger audience, such as with the dinner boxes she makes for Gold season ticket holders at Transcendence Theater’s summer shows.
Delicious Dish is ready to meet you with warmth and tasty goodness. Just look for the quiet little roadhouse a few blocks down the road from Expected and down the hill from Dullsville.
Best Bets
Fried Chicken Sandwiches, $16: These are the Goldilocks fried chicken sandwiches I’ve been searching for. The chicken breast isn’t too thick or too thin. The buns are soft but not wimpy. The toppings are an absolutely perfect complement, with fresh produce and flavor-packed condiments; and the breading stays crispy-crunchy long enough to eat the whole sandwich. The California is a Lizzo-thick ’wich with avocado, pickled red onion, ranch dressing, roasted poblano peppers and thick heirloom tomatoes. My favorite, however, had to be the Nashville, dripping with pimento cheese, sweet pickled jalapeños, ranch dressing and shredded lettuce. So naughty, but so nice.
Hot Dungeness Crab Melt, $24: Another “where have you been all my life” sandwich loaded with warm Old Bay-spiced crab salad on a buttery brioche bun. A slice of cheddar, thick tomato slices and Meyer lemon mayonnaise elevate this work of food art into Louvre material. It’s worth the price, unlike so many other anemic crab sandos that are just a whisper of seafood on a raft of a bun.
Crab sandwich melt at Delicious Dish in Sonoma (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Fresh Catch Burger, as quoted: Fresh whole fish (usually local halibut) is broken down daily at the shop, and it shows in the clean flavor and moistness of this generously sized burger. A big chunk is sandwiched between potato buns, melted American cheese, fresh dill tartar sauce and pickled cabbage. I’m a serious seafood snob, and this easily satisfied me.
Banh Mi Ahi Poke Bowl Salad, $18: It’s no exaggeration to say I could eat this rainbow of black rice, pickled daikon, cucumber, watermelon radish, cilantro, mint and ruby red chunks of tuna every day. Each bite reveals something new — sweet, crunchy, sour, bitter, herby, umami — presented in a giant bowl that’s heartbreakingly beautiful. Cotner understands the sauce game — she puts both sriracha aioli and a creamy miso dressing on the side.
Homemade shakes, $7: Just yum. No fillers or artificial gunk, just creamy frozen goodness with fresh ingredients and a swirl of whipped cream.
Margherita pizza from L’Oro Di Napoli in Santa Rosa. (L’Oro Di Napoli)
With the downtown Santa Rosa closure of La Vera in 2019 and Mary’s Pizza Shack this year, Fourth Street has been all but crustless. Thankfully, L’Oro Di Napoli has come to the rescue, throwing some seriously Italian pies.
Their Neopolitan-style pizzas have thin centers and signature charred crusts that need little more than a few toppings. We couldn’t get enough of the simple Margherita with San Marzano tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella, Parmesan, olive oil and basil ($20). The Caprese Salad ($13) was also impressive, with a hefty ball of creamy burrata, tomatoes and basil drizzled with olive oil.
The menu is still in development and is currently limited to pizzas and salads. Takeout was a little confusing, but at first blush, we’re hopeful about this new spot.
Canevari’s Deli, famous for its homemade ravioli and stuffed Italian sandwiches, has taken over the kitchens of Third Street Aleworks for a limited pop-up on Fridays and Saturdays.
Serving up crave-worthy checkered tablecloth favorites including meatball sliders, mushroom polenta, Italian cheesesteak, chicken Parmesan, spaghetti and their signature ravioli, the restaurant has become an in-the-know talker, only advertising the pop-up on Instagram.
In May, the popular downtown Santa Rosa brewery announced it was closing its kitchen to focus on opening a new production facility and converting its brewpub into a beer-only taproom.
Kyle and Katina Connaughton during the grand opening of Little Saint in downtown Healdsburg on April 22, 2022. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Healdsburg’s Single Thread is the only California restaurant to make this year’s World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, as announced Monday at a live ceremony in London.
Though the Michelin-starred restaurant slipped from last year’s No. 37 position to No. 50, it bested San Francisco’s Benu and Atelier Crenn, which made the top 50 list in 2021. (Benu came in at No. 97 and Atelier Crenn at No. 72 on a 51 to 100 ranking released before the awards ceremony.)
Single Thread’s top ranking comes on the heels of pandemic challenges for the industry and just five months after the fine-dining destination was forced to close for two months due to a duct fire.
“I’m incredibly proud. It was such a tough year for everyone last year. We’re really honored to have made (the list). It’s such an incredible community of people and friends,” said Single Thread owner and chef Kyle Connaughton from London.
Single Thread is one of only three U.S. restaurants included in the highly competitive awards this year. New York’s Atomix (No. 33, up from No. 43) and Le Bernardin (holding at No. 44) also were on the list.
The Art of Plating dinner with Single Thread’s Kyle and Katina Connaughton in 2018. (Courtesy of Single Thread)
A luxurious dining experience
Opened in 2016, the 55-seat Single Thread restaurant is known for its luxurious dining experience presented over nearly a dozen courses. Chef Connaughton’s painstakingly plated dishes are as much pieces of art as they are food. His menu is inspired by Japanese cuisine and the micro-seasons of the local farm he owns with his wife, Katina, who manages the farm and creates dynamic floral centerpieces for each table in the restaurant.
Each guest receives a bespoke experience, with a custom menu that in past years has included homemade tofu with Osetra caviar, black cod with squash blossoms or kanpachi with wild seaweed and oyster emulsion. The price tag per person can range from $325 to more than $500 with wine pairings. Reservations typically book out months in advance.
“It was just an amazing experience,” said Timo Rivetti, a real estate broker in Petaluma who visited the restaurant recently. “The first impression with the 17 small bites in a floral arrangement was incredible. The combinations of food just melt in your mouth.”
“The service was impeccable, the waiters are impeccably dressed and just everything had an exquisite taste,” he said.
Rhubarb and green tea with almond cream from Single Thread in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Single Thread)
International spotlight on Healdsburg
This is the fourth time Single Thread has made the top restaurants lists released annually by the organization The World’s 50 Best.
The restaurant debuted on the 51-100 list in 2018, taking the No. 91 spot. That year, it was noted as “One to Watch,” which recognizes “rising star” restaurants. It leapfrogged to No. 71 the following year and then to No. 37 in 2021 (the event was canceled in 2020 due to the pandemic).
As Single Thread has continued to garner international acclaim — from the Michelin Guide’s three-star rating to a recent Grand Award from Wine Spectator magazine — it has brought more attention to Healdsburg and other restaurants in the city.
“They have really changed the town. For us to have such a big spotlight just opens the lens for all of us,” said Melissa Yanc, a former Single Thread employee and the co-owner of Healdsburg’s Quail and Condor Bakery and Troubadour Bread and Sandwiches.
“Kyle and Katina’s level of hospitality isn’t just being nice, but being genuine and sincere. They just breathe that,” she said.
Before receiving this year’s World’s 50 Best recognition, the Connaughtons were the driving force behind the highly anticipated, plant-based restaurant Little Saint, which opened in April in the 10,000-square-foot building in downtown Healdsburg that once housed SHED Modern Grange.
Copenhagen restaurant tops the list
Copenhagen’s Geranium was named the best restaurant in the world at Monday’s awards ceremony in London. The Danish capital continued its run as one of the top dining destinations in the world, with three restaurants among the top 50, following last year’s No. 1 ranking from Chef Rene Redzepi’s Noma restaurant.
European restaurants in Italy and Spain were among the most celebrated, though showings from South America (notably Peru), Tokyo and Mexico were strong, too. Pujol in Mexico City was this year’s “Best Restaurant in North America” at No. 5 on the list.
Actor Stanley Tucci hosted this year’s awards ceremony and described Single Thread as “a destination for transportive, seasonal tasting menus as well as for its adjoining, upscale, five-room inn.” The Connaughtons were in the audience in London and shared a hug when their No. 50 position was announced.
The restaurants featured on the coveted list are chosen by a collective of 1,000 international restaurant experts and gourmets, according to The World’s 50 Best group. The list has repeatedly been criticized for its lack of diversity. Male-run restaurants in Europe and North America have dominated the list since it launched 20 years ago, while certain regions and continents, such as the Middle East and Africa, and restaurants run by women have remained absent or underrepresented on the list.
Some also view the individual award “Best Female Chef” as an outdated categorization. This year, Leonor Espinosa of Leo restaurant in Bogotá, Columbia, won the controversial honor.
World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2022
50. Single Thread, Healdsburg, California (down from 37)
49. Ikoyi, London, United Kingdom (up from 87)
48. Leo, Bogota, Colombia (down from 46)
47. Oteque, Rio de Janiero, Brazil (new entry)
46. Belcanto, Lisbon, Portugal (down from 42)
45. Narisawa, Tokyo, Japan (down from 19)
44. Le Bernadin, New York City (same)
43. Boragó, Santiago, Chile (down from 38)
42. Quique Dacosta, Dénia, Spain (up from 74)
41. La Cime, Osaka, Japan (new entry)
40. Schloss Schauenstein, Furstenau, Switzerland (up from 59)
39. Sorn, Bangkok, Thailand (new entry)
38. Jordnær, Copenhagen, Denmark (new entry)
37. Fyn, Cape Town, South Africa (new entry)
36. Odette, Singapore (down from 8)
35. The Clove Club, London, United Kingdom (down from 32)
34. Hisa Franko, Kobarid, Slovenia (down from 21)
33. Atomix, New York City (up from 43)
32. Maido, Lima, Peru (down from 7)
31. Arpege, Paris, France (down from 23)
30. Florilege, Tokyo, Japan (up from 39)
29 St Hubertus, San Cassiano, Italy (new entry)
28. Le Clarence, Paris, France (new entry)
27. Hof van Cleve, Kruishoutem, Belgium (up from 36)
26. Restaurant Tim Raue, Berlin, Germany (up from 31)
25. Frantzen, Stockholm, Sweden (down from 6)
24. The Chairman, Hong Kong, China (down from 10)
23. The Jane, Antwerp, Belgium (new entry)
22. Septime, Paris, France (up from 24)
21. Mugariz, San Sebastian, Spain (down from 14)
20. Den, Tokyo, Japan (down from 11)
19. Piazza Duomo, Alba, Italy (down from 18)
18. Alchemist, Copenhagen, Denmark (new entry)
17. Nobelhart & Shmutizg, Berlin, Germany (up from 45)
16. Elkano, Getaria, Spain (same)
15. Reale, Castel Di Sangro, Italy (up from 29)
14. Don Julio, Buenos Aires, Argentina (down from 13)
13. Steirereck, Vienna, Austria (down from 12)
12. Uliassi, Senigallia, Italy (Highest Climber; up from 52)
11. Maido, Lima, Peru (down from 7)
10. Le Calandre, Rubano, Italy (up from 26)
9. Quintonil, Mexico City, Mexico (up from 27)
8. Lido 84, Gardone Riviera, Italy (up from 84)
7. A Casa do Porco, Sao Paolo, Brazil (up from 17)
6. Asador Etxebarri, Atxondo, Spain (down from 3)
5. Pujol, Mexico City, Mexico (up from 9)
4. Diverxo, Madrid, Spain (up from 20)
3. Disfrutar, Barcelona, Spain (up from 5)
2. Central, Lima, Peru (up from 4)
1. Geranium, Copenhagen, Denmark (up from 2)
Ned Hill, owner of La Prenda Vineyard Management has his workers till his vineyard near Glen Ellen so the drip systems penetrate the soil in the correct location. (John Burgess/Sonoma Magazine)
Residents of Sonoma Valley are on the front lines of a reckoning with new regulations to manage the state’s well water. But even in a community that prides itself on sustainability, the long-term path to a healthy aquifer is full of challenges.
One morning in the summer of 2018, Kelly Stober woke up and started to get ready for work. But when she turned on the faucet in her shower, no water came out.
Stober lives in a rural neighborhood a few miles east of downtown Sonoma. Like her neighbors, she relies on a well for drinking water, household uses, and irrigation. And her well, sunk 800 feet into the ground, had run dry.
It was a startling revelation about an unseen and scarce resource. Groundwater runs deep below the Earth’s surface, stored in the cracks between soil and rock, collecting slowly over eons in aquifers that resemble a layer cake.
Experts, though, are fond of another metaphor to depict how that finite resource is at risk of exploitation. They liken groundwater held in aquifers to a big milkshake, with each well a straw. The more straws, the less milkshake to go around.
Sonoma County has among the highest concentration of those straws in California–up to 45,000 registered wells. And Sonoma Valley, one of the world’s prized winemaking regions and home to some 41,000 people from Kenwood to Schellville, has long been singled out as the local area most at risk of depletion.
At the southern end, near San Pablo Bay, saltwater intrusion—the underground creep of brackish water into freshwater stores—has long been a key concern. But the alarms grew last summer as Sonoma Valley’s aquifer showed declines of 15-20 feet in places. That deficit, after another winter of lackluster rains, is part of a long-term pattern of aquifer depletion, fueled by unchecked pumping for irrigation, homes, and other purposes.
Now, amid California’s worst drought in over four decades–and the most pronounced arid streak in the western U.S. in 1,200 years–more of the valley’s wells are turning up dry, say residents and officials who represent the area.
That has heightened fears for residents like Stober and presented new challenges for the region’s winemakers and elected officials, making Sonoma Valley a microcosm of the wider drought-plagued West. The questions being raised here, among neighbors and farmers, government panels and private industry, could have wide ranging implications for the future of development and agriculture in a place that cherishes its rural identity.
The stakes have only grown in the face of new state-mandated regulations that require local commissions to study groundwater use and develop plans to ensure sustainable groundwater supplies in their communities.
“People are being dragged kicking and screaming into having to regulate something that’s been unregulated so far,” says Fred Allebach, a Sonoma Valley resident who leads an advisory panel helping to implement a local plan for groundwater regulation. “There might have to be some limits. I think that’s just a fact in a world of finite resources and a growing population— we have to deal with that.”
Supervisor Susan Gorin, who has represented the valley on the Board of Supervisors for a decade, suggested something drastic may be needed: Halting approvals for new wells entirely.
“Maybe it’s time to stop, take a pause and say, ‘No more wells in our basin until groundwater starts to recover,’” says Gorin, offering up the idea of a moratorium in a May interview. At the very least, she says, “it’s about time that we get serious about more requirements: where the wells are located and the impact they might be having on neighboring wells.”
People are being dragged kicking and screaming into having to regulate something that’s been unregulated so far. There might have to be some limits. I think that’s just a fact in a world of finite resources and a growing population—we have to deal with that.
–Fred Allebach, Chair of the Groundwater Advisory Committee in Sonoma Valley
Sonoma Valley is one of three groundwater basins in Sonoma County—the others are in Petaluma and along the Santa Rosa Plain. Of the three, the 44,000-acre Sonoma Valley basin, with an estimated 900-1,250 domestic wells, is the only one classified by the state as “high priority,” due to the degree of the valley’s dependence on groundwater supplies, its population, and other factors.
But the valley is unique in that it began piloting voluntary groundwater management as far back as 2007, after a study demonstrated signs of aquifer depletion due to overpumping.
“Sonoma Valley was very much the pioneer for the other basins in Sonoma County,” says Caitlin Cornwall, vice chair of the committee advising the Sonoma Valley on its groundwater plan and a senior project manager at Sonoma Ecology Center.
Caitlin Cornwall is a senior planner with the Sonoma Ecology Center and the vice chair of the groundwater advisory committee in Sonoma Valley. (John Burgess/Sonoma Magazine)Wendy Hayes, a watershed ecologist with the Sonoma Ecology Center, measures the depth and flow of Sonoma Creek in Glen Ellen to gauge the amount of water in relation to groundwater stores. (John Burgess/Sonoma Magazine)
Across the state, there are far worse cases of groundwater overuse, and more protracted fights over how to resolve it. South of Stockton, the vast San Joaquin Valley, with some of the nation’s most prosperous farmland, serves as one cautionary tale. Years of overextraction have caused land to sink in some places by as much as 30 feet.
Climate change has posed new threats, too, and not just to groundwater supply. During a drought, the concentration of pathogens and other contaminants in drinking water can increase. Heavier rains, floods and mudslides also impact water quality, and fires can damage well systems, leaching toxic chemicals and leading to costly repairs.
California’s response to those alarming trends was to turn a century and a half of hands-off groundwater management on its head. Under a 2014 law seen as then-Gov. Jerry Brown’s most aggressive move against the drought during his tenure, well water use will be regulated and monitored going forward, part of a new framework of government intervention meant to stabilize underground water levels in the state’s 515 groundwater basins within two decades.
“California was, famously, the last state in the West to adopt a state-level requirement for management,” says Ellen Hanak, vice president and director of the PPIC Water Policy Center and a senior fellow at the Public Policy Institute of California. “That said, our law is a lot more comprehensive … We’re starting late, but it’s kind of a nice law in allowing for a lot of local determination of how folks are actually going to do this, but with a backstop”—the state—that’s “actually got teeth.”
The ‘local’ involvement comes in the form of over 260 new public entities, known by the unwieldy common moniker Groundwater Sustainability Agencies, or GSAs. The appointed bodies, each managed locally, are tasked with ensuring the health of the state’s most endangered groundwater basins, including Sonoma Valley. Sonoma Valley’s GSA includes a board of directors representing local water agencies and county government, as well as an advisory committee representing a gamut of interests, including farmers, rural residents, and the environment.
“The GSA’s job is to make sure that there’s still some milkshake there for everybody in the future,” says Allebach, who chairs the Sonoma Valley groundwater agency’s advisory committee.
Critically, however, there is no built-in state financial support for implementing the plans each agency needs to craft. They must find that funding mechanism, a politically fraught task that could result in annual fees never before paid by well users. Elected officials are scrambling to delay that scenario, at least for rural residents, and pony up taxand ratepayer money that would temporarily cover the cost of groundwater management.
But it is likely that one way or another, well owners—residents, farmers, and business owners—will eventually foot the bill.
A pressure gauge in the pump house on the rural property of homeowner Kelly Stober. (John Burgess/Sonoma Magazine)
The water level in Kelly Stober’s rural Sonoma well had been dropping for years by the time it ran dry in late summer of 2018. She was forced to have water delivered by truck as much as twice a week, each delivery costing $250. The following year, despite a long wait list for well drilling—a result of high demand—she had a second 500-foot well installed, at a cost of $65,000. She also installed a system to monitor leaks, pump rates, and water levels.
For the moment, her well is stable. It provides enough water for about two acres of landscaping, with a hundred olive trees, a garden, and some rosebushes. Strober has already removed half her lawn and uses drought tolerant native plants when possible. “We try to be conscientious about our water use,” she says.
Data on the viability of Sonoma Valley’s domestic wells is hard to come by, but Stober’s experience is likely not a rare one. Supervisor Gorin, who lives in a Santa Rosa subdivision at the northern end of Sonoma Valley, says “we know anecdotally that wells are drying up. Residents are having to drill deeper wells at great expense, and when they do drill, they are not finding the water availability.”
Stober is very concerned, as are many other rural residents, about the idea that she might soon be paying money to pump water from her wells. Under the current proposed regulatory fee, residential well owners in the valley’s management zone would pay a flat rate between $48-$80 per year.
Like other local groundwater agencies across the state, Sonoma County’s proposals have included various options: a parcel tax, per-well fees, regulatory fees, and a benefit assessment district, which would require voter approval. But some of the proposed fee rates in the three Sonoma groundwater basins differ widely. In Petaluma, the most sparsely populated basin, for example, some fee options are significantly higher per household, because there are fewer residents to share the cost.
So who carries the burden? And who decides what’s fair?
Some residential well owners like Stober wonder whether additional fees put undue strain on them, pointing to the high cost of well maintenance that they already pay. The $65,000 Stober spent on her second well, she says, doesn’t count the ongoing costs of labor and maintenance.
Many Sonoma Valley residents have voiced concern the proposed fees are just a baseline and may go up, particularly if large-scale aquifer restoration projects are needed in the future. “What I saw proposed didn’t seem like a very high amount,” says Schellville resident Terry Crisler, who needed to drill a new well at her home in November of 2020. “My concern is, what’s the next step?”
But rising fees are not a foregone conclusion, says Sonoma Valley’s groundwater agency administrator Ann DuBay, a longtime spokesperson for Sonoma Water, the county’s main drinking water supplier. The current fees will fund monitoring, data collection, and planning for five years. After that, specific groundwater projects may need additional funding, but that money could come from grants, member agencies, or from well owners. That’s a decision for the next rate and fee study, she says.
“We don’t own the water; we understand that,” says Stober. “We need to come up with a plan.” But, she says, it needs to be fair.
It’s like a prisoner’s dilemma. If somebody thinks someone else is cheating, then they won’t cooperate–and so then everybody loses.” –Fred Allebach
What seems fair to many policymakers is to require those who use the most groundwater—mainly farmers—to pay in a way that covers their majority share of the milkshake.
But Taylor Serres, a sixth-generation wine grape farmer and appointee to the advisory panel for Sonoma Valley’s groundwater agency, argues that adding another financial burden for farmers already operating on tight margins is too much of a strain. She contends that step poses serious risks to the viability of agricultural operations and the rural character of the valley. “There are a lot of extremely unhappy people, both residential and in agriculture,” Serres says.
Supervisor Gorin believes the costs of managing the valley’s groundwater should not be borne entirely by urban residential users—nor entirely by agricultural or rural residential users either. “But for those water users above two acre-feet per year, they have an obligation, a moral obligation, to be part of the community that safeguards the basin,” she says.
Ultimately, says the PPIC Water Policy Center’s Ellen Hanak, the problem is straightforward. “Agriculture is the biggest user,” she says, “and if they’re not paying, then someone’s subsidizing them. It comes down to this question: Who is willing to subsidize ag?”
There don’t appear to be a lot of volunteers, and that’s not just in Sonoma, says Hanak.
Across California, local groundwater agencies have been wrestling with how to assign fees in a way that doesn’t place undue burdens on any one group of users. An in-depth academic study of the first five years of the state law’s implementation across California found the most common obstacles agencies face across the board are lack of trust and divergent interests among stakeholders.
“It’s like a prisoner’s dilemma,” says Allebach, who rents a home on a property where the well went dry for several months in 2005. “If somebody thinks someone else is cheating, then they won’t cooperate—and so then everybody loses.”
Sonoma grapegrower and viticulturalist Ned Hill manages a number of local vineyards with his company, La Prenda Vineyards Management. Here, Hill tuns on the drip irrigation at his family vineyard to check for faulty emitter heads. (John Burgess/Sonoma Magazine)
Just how much of the milkshake do Sonoma Valley farmers use? And how would that translate to fees?
There isn’t data available yet to say for certain about use, but roughly 44% of Sonoma Valley land is under active cultivation. Vineyards are the largest water users, relying not just on groundwater but surface water impounded from streams and runoff into ponds, along with recycled water. (Cannabis, a water-intensive crop, is currently not widely grown enough in the valley to have a significant impact on groundwater, county officials say.)
Most farmers have known for a long time that they’d have to pay for water eventually, says Mike Sangiacomo, a third generation grapegrower and board vice chair of the Sonoma Valley groundwater agency. “Agriculture in general knows that they could potentially carry the lion’s share of the fees,” he says. “We just don’t want to carry it all.”
Ned Hill, the owner o f La Prenda Vineyards Management, agrees. “Every year, there are more regulatory burdens,” he says. At the same time, having been born and raised in the valley, he acknowledges the vital importance of managing groundwater: “You’d be sticking your head in the sand to say that it’s not an issue.”
“You’d be sticking your head in the sand to say that it’s not an issue.” – Vineyard Manager Ned Hill
Hill wonders, however, whether policymakers are unfairly penalizing farmers, when homeowners could pay lower rates to maintain a green lawn, for example. “If you’ve got 20 rose bushes, I’m using more water than you are,” he says. “I can’t argue with that. But an acre of grapes is going to use less water than an acre of lawn.”
Stober, who works in real estate, says residents can’t deny that one of the reasons Sonoma Valley is so desirable is because of the vineyards. “So if you start penalizing them, like making them pay for their water— that affects Sonoma County overall.” If vineyards can’t be successful here, she says, “then what are we going to do?”
Caitlin Cornwall echoes her point. If groundwater becomes a limiting factor for viticulture—either because of cost or due to depletion—that land could be put to other uses. “We could see that land abandoned, homes being built, or something else we can’t imagine yet. It’s not a future that anyone wants.”
Sonoma Valley’s long-term housing trends are another unknown factor in the debate over how to balance demands on groundwater. Both Hill and Stober say they’ve seen an influx of new residents in their neighborhoods. Sonoma Valley has gained more part-time residents and more vacation rentals, too, reflecting a pattern that’s playing out in the most sought-after corners of Wine County.
Housing, meanwhile, remains in short supply for middle and working-class families, posing another dilemma with implications for groundwater: More development means less surface area for rain to be absorbed into open ground, reducing the recharge needed to replenish aquifers.
The development tradeoff doesn’t get much mention in public disputes about new construction.
But, Ned Hill points out, “You can’t have it both ways.”
Though the pace of residential growth in Sonoma Valley was dealt a major setback by fires since 2017, it remains a major factor in the long term, with a key underlying question: How many wells can the basin sustainably support?
Supervisor Gorin hinted at that overarching issue when she indicated support for study of a short-term ban on new wells—a possibility that the Board of Supervisors has yet to discuss. At the very least, following a 2021 executive order from Gov. Gavin Newsom, the Sonoma Valley groundwater committee is likely to begin involving itself in a more rigorous permitting process for new commercial and agricultural wells.
Acknowledging that the issue may be politically fraught, Gorin says, “Nothing about this is easy.”
For Cornwall, a well moratorium isn’t the answer. The real issue, she says, is not the number of wells, but total water use across the basin. To address that, she points to a groundwater trading model, which caps total groundwater use, but allows water users to buy and sell water allotments, not unlike the state’s credit system for carbon emissions.
Advocates say the model incentivizes conservation and while allowing for individual flexibility. But the idea is still very new: water agency managers in Ventura County launched the state’s only groundwater trading model just two years ago.
In Sonoma Valley, where the groundwater agency is still focused on implementing and funding its initial sustainability plan, any serious consideration of such a novel program is still a long way off. But, says Ann DuBay, the groundwater agency’s administrator, it’s an intriguing possibility, even as residents’ sense of urgency increases.
“Last summer we saw what happens in a drought without resources to protect groundwater,” says Cornwall. “The drought continues. Delaying action will only make things worse. It’s going to take a funded GSA to reverse the alarming trend that we’re in.”
We’d like to see a future with abundant groundwater, abundant stream flow, oak groves that are going to be able to find water even in a multi-year drought.” – Caitlin Cornwall
With some of the biggest questions still unresolved, Sonoma Valley’s groundwater officials are set to vote this summer on a stopgap measure: a temporary fee for one year, based on groundwater usage and a minimal agency budget. If that compromise stalls, the program will continue to tap funds from participating public agencies, including the city of Sonoma, in effect subsidizing the cost of groundwater regulation from a wider pool of city residents.
The continued struggles, now more than seven years into the new era launched by California’s Sustainable Groundwater Management Act, illustrate the political challenges inherent in marshaling support for government action that too few stakeholders see as a direct benefit.
That perspective often gets lost in the tug-of-war over fees, says Cornwall, who sides with those contending that groundwater management, while costly, also offers long-term assurances for every resident in the valley. “It means well owners won’t have to spend hundreds of thousands of dollars deepening their wells. It means they won’t see their wells depleted by neighboring agricultural wells. It means that the water suppliers— the city of Sonoma and Valley of the Moon Water District—also won’t have to deepen their wells and pass those costs onto their customers. It means that we won’t have to worry about the land sinking. It means that the wells near the southern part of the valley will keep pumping fresh water—and the quality of their water could improve.”
Board members agree there’s a need to better articulate these benefits to those leery of rising costs. Even so, some are wondering if and when the finger-pointing —homeowners vs. grapegrowers, vineyards vs. cannabis operations, new residents vs. longtime ones—will end.
Fred Allebach, the advisory committee chair for the valley’s groundwater agency, says those interests should focus on cooperation, “rather than have it be a circular firing squad.”
Others are more hopeful that constituent groups will be able to work together. They emphasize that with the state law’s requirements laid out in no uncertain terms, there’s really no alternative. “The goal,” says Mike Sangiacomo, is “an equitable and sustainable solution both for the groundwater and for everybody’s businesses and livelihoods.”
“What we pull off here can offer lessons to a lot of other groundwater basins around the state,” agrees Cornwall. “We’d like to see a future with abundant groundwater, abundant stream flow, oak groves that are going to be able to find water even in a multi-year drought. We see benefits to people and to nature. Higher groundwater levels are worth aiming for.”
“Up to this point, we have all thought that it was free, that this was our private water source. But aquifers are the great connector,” says Gorin. The question now, she says, is: “What is right, what is fair, and what is equitable to safeguard the common aquifer that we need?”
Groundwater By the Numbers
40%
Amount of California’s water supplied by underground aquifers in a year of normal rainfall
60%
Amount supplied by underground aquifers in a drought year
15-20 feet
The decline in the level of certain sections of Sonoma Valley’s deep aquifer in 2021, a result of extreme drought combined with unchecked pumping
900-1,250
The estimated number of domestic wells in Sonoma Valley
2,000
The approximate total number of wells in Sonoma Valley, including domestic, agricultural, and public supply wells
94
The number of high- or medium priority groundwater basins across California, accounting for 98% of all groundwater pumping
$727,600
The total spent by the Sonoma Valley groundwater agency in 2020-2021
Smash burger from Sonoma Burger in Sebastopol. (Courtesy of Sonoma Burger)
Looking for a bargain meal in Sonoma County? Sure, there are plenty of usual suspects (taco trucks, fast food) but we spent some time digging a little deeper for some surprisingly delicious picks at restaurants of all stripes — from an Ethiopian vegetable sampler to barbecue, burgers and much more.
Cheap, of course, is pretty subjective. My rubric includes value, quality and quantity. There are also some towns–like Healdsburg–where affordable food can be a challenge to find unless you eat fast food. I’ve personally eaten at all of these spots (and for the most part all of the dishes) and feel pretty confident in my recommendations. Enjoy!
Korean Carrot Salat at Sashinka in Sebastopol. (Sashinka)
It took a war for Chef Sasha St. Germain to realize his dream of serving the Ukrainian food he’s loved since childhood.
Born in the Eastern European country now being battered by ongoing conflict, St. Germain remembers that dishes like pelmeni, piroshki, smoked fish and pickles were familiar favorites in his household, even after his family moved to the United States in 1991.
But until recently, promoting a Ukrainian restaurant was a bit of a hard sell.
“Unfortunately, it took a war,” St. Germain said. “People went from asking me ‘Where is that country?’ to ‘I’m so sorry.’ Well, people know where it is now.”
In late June, St. Germain launched Sashinka at Jasper’s Pub in Sebastopol. (Editor’s note: St. Germain is married to the executive director of Sonoma Family Meal, a nonprofit founded by Heather Irwin.)
Black Sea smoked fish dip and chips at Sashinka in Sebastopol. (Sashinka)Chef Sasha St. Germain of Sashinka in Sebastopol. (Sashinka)
From 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, the Ukrainian food pop-up features approachable but elevated dishes including Chicken Pelmeni (a filled pasta) with black pepper fondue and rye crumbles ($13), eggplant caviar ($9) and crisp cabbage piroshki (a pocket pie) with caramelized “everything” onion dip ($13). For under $30, you can get dinner and a beer.
Summer favorites include Korean Carrot Salat ($9) with grated carrots and sunflower seeds (yes, that’s what Ukrainians call it) and seasonal salat with cucumber, snap peas and caraway ranch dressing ($9).
Trained in fine dining, St. Germain recently moved to Sonoma County from New York, where he worked at several Michelin-starred restaurants focused on more traditional European cuisine. But casual bar dining is truly where his passion lies.
“I’ve always wanted to have a bar with really elevated cuisine. Those are the places I love to go,” he said.
That also means preparing dozens of dine-in and to-go orders from a shoebox-size bar kitchen with a toaster oven and two burners.
“Representation of (Eastern European cuisine) hasn’t always been there. I just want to show people that Eastern European food is approachable if you give it a chance,” he said.
As one of the world’s largest producers of wheat and sunflower seeds, Ukraine has native dishes that St. Germain describes as “humble.” For his menu, he uses dark bread and sunflower oils and seeds.
“We love our bread. It’s not a meal without bread,” he said. The Odesa Open-Faced Sandwich ($12) is a hearty slab of brown bread slathered with cheese, then topped by creamy egg salad. It’s richer than Warren Buffett, but a lot better-looking.
As for the restaurant’s name, St. Germain said it’s a term of endearment. “It’s what my mom calls me when she’s not mad at me.”
St. Germain still has extended family and friends in his war-torn native country, and he feels for both his homeland and Russians who have family members fighting.
“I feel for everyone losing people. There are both sides to every story, but war is never the answer,” he said.
Diners at Shashinka are encouraged to donate to Razom, a humanitarian organization in Ukraine, through razomforukraine.org. Jasper’s Pub, 6957 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol, sashinkaeats.com
Cocktail lineup at Third Pig Bar in Sebastopol. (John Wesley Brewer)
Opening a new craft cocktail bar during the uncertainty of COVID-19 may seem as unstable a proposition as building a house of straw.
But for Alex and Katie Bowman, who just launched Third Pig Bar in Sebastopol, the hope is that their new bar’s foundation of creative cocktails, affable service and playful aesthetic will ensure it’s built to last.
The Bowmans, who own Bowman Cellars winery in Graton, both have long ties to the local community. Alex, whose father founded Bowman Electric, is a third-generation Sonoma County native, and Katie’s grandparents founded the well-known Andy’s Produce Market in Sebastopol.
“In the wine industry, we’re always worried about something, whether it’s fire, the pandemic or the economy,” Alex Bowman said. “But you can’t let that deter you. You just need to know what your bottom line is and weigh your risk.”
Katie, from left, and Alex Bowman, owners of Bowman Cellars, have opened Third Pig Bar in Sebastopol. (John Wesley Brewer)Piggy Punch at Third Pig Bar in Sebastopol. (John Wesley Brewer)
The couple hadn’t considered opening a craft cocktail bar until a wine club member approached them about leasing a vacated space in a building the club member owned in Sebastopol on South Main Street.
Neatly tucked between Bank of the West and Sebastopol Sunshine Café, the narrow space was previously occupied by Ruin Cocktail Bar, an aptly named victim of the pandemic that had sat empty since March 2020.
While the Bowmans considered opening a second tasting room for Bowman Cellars, the idea of a cocktail bar energized them.
“We’ve witnessed a shift in Sebastopol and have seen great demand for craft cocktails,” Alex Bowman said. “There are a few great places in town, but none of them stay open past 9 p.m. We want to give people more options, so we’ll be open until midnight on Fridays and Saturdays.”
Coming up with a name for their new venture wasn’t easy. But he says the idea hit him one evening like a ton of bricks.
“I was staring at this pile of bricks in my yard when I suddenly thought of the Three Little Pigs,” he said. “The third little pig built a house of bricks that withstood all the trials and attempts of the Big Bad Wolf. Right now, we don’t know what to expect with everything going on in the world. So let’s build something that is going to last.”
To develop the cocktail menu and oversee back-of-the-house management, Alex Bowman sought the talents of Danielle Peters and Erin Clossey of Good Folks Hospitality, a beverage consultancy based in Sonoma County.
Formerly of (now-closed) Whisper Sisters Cocktails and Provisions in Petaluma, Peters oversees creative development and training at Third Pig Bar, while Clossey manages the back of the house.
“During the planning phase, we spent a lot of time with Alex and Katie to understand their vision and aesthetic,” Peters said. “After that, they gave us creative control.”
The cocktail menu at Third Pig Bar highlights local spirits, bitters and syrups, along with fresh seasonal ingredients from Andy’s Produce Market.
Some cocktails indulge the Three Little Pigs theme, like the tiki-inspired Piggy Punch ($14) and the dark, brooding Big Bad Wolf ($14): a rye-driven elixir with restrained undertones of bergamot and mint. Embracing a spectrum of spirits, the menu also includes classics like the sazerac and mai tai, as well as a few nonalcoholic options. Local beers and wine are also for sale.
“I’ll be the first to admit I have a lot to learn about the bar industry,” Alex Bowman said. “But Katie and I know how to be authentic, provide great hospitality and hire a great team. If you come into any Bowman establishment — whether it’s our winery, our bar or our house — you’re going to get great service and feel at home. That’s our ultimate goal.”
Third Pig Bar: 116 S. Main St., Sebastopol. Open 4-11 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 4 p.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday, and 2-8 p.m. on Sunday. thirdpigbar.com, instagram.com/thirdpigbar
Chef Perry Hoffman at Boonville Hotel Lucille Lawrence.
When people head to Mendocino, most make a beeline for the coast. From botanical gardens and ocean-view hikes to train rides through the redwoods, it’s is a dream destination for nature lovers. But there are places along the road that are worth exploring, too.
In Mendocino’s Anderson Valley, low-key towns like Philo and Boonville offer something a little different, from cider tastings in an orchard to multi-course meals by former SHED chef Perry Hoffman. Here’s what not to miss on a visit.
Hendy Woods State Park
Mendocino County is home to a whopping 24 state parks. An ideal spot to stretch your legs, Hendy Woods State Park protects two redwood groves: Big Hendy Grove and Little Hendy Grove. Big Hendy Grove, which covers 80 acres, is the largest and most popular of the two and has a wheelchair-accessible trail.
All cider tastings at Gowan’s in Philo are held outdoors in one of the family’s apple orchards. (Courtesy of Visit Mendocino)
Gowan’s Cider Tasting in the Orchard
Relax in the shade of century-old apple trees while tasting your way through a flight of Gowan’s ciders. The Gowan family has grown apples in Philo for six generations, since 1876. They started making ciders seven years ago and also operate the iconic Gowan’s Oak Tree Fruit Stand just down the road on Highway 128. The family uses a variety of heirloom apples, including Gravenstein, Macintosh and the rare Sierra Beauty, to craft a half-dozen ciders.
Tastings take place in the orchard, Friday through Monday. More opening days may be added later in the summer, so make sure to check the website. A flight of six ciders is $15. Reservations are preferred.
Anderson Valley’s Roederer Estate is the California outpost of France’s family-run Louis Roederer champagne house. Toast to the winery’s 40th anniversary this year with a glass of bubbly — there’s also pinot noir and chardonnay on the tasting menu but it’s the sparkling wine that draws crowds. Since there are only a half-dozen tables on the winery terrace, reservations are recommended.
The Classic Sparkling Flight (Brut, Brut in Magnum, 2015 L’Ermitage Brut, Extra Dry) is $20; the 40th Anniversary Flight (Brut, Library Reserve, 2015 L’Ermitage Brut, 2003 L’Ermitage Late Disgorged Brust, 2013 L’Ermitage Brut Rosé) is $40.
Foursight Wines is a true family affair: Husband and wife Bill and Nancy Charles grow the grapes while their daughter Kristy Charles and her husband, Joseph Webb, make the wine. Taste the family’s pinot noir, semillon and sauvignon blanc in the winery’s shaded backyard Friday through Monday.
Tastings ($20) typically include six to eight pours. Reservations are preferred; limited walk-in appointments are available.
Wine and cheese tasting at Pennyroyal Farm in Boonville. (Courtesy of Visit Mendocino)
Pennyroyal Farm
If you only have time for one stop in Anderson Valley, make it Pennyroyal Farm. Guided tours of the creamery and vineyard include the farm’s solar-powered barn, where you will meet some of the most social goats around. Be prepared to make new friends — every goat has a name.
After the tour, a wine and cheese pairing ($30) is served on a patio overlooking the vineyards. Tours are offered 10:30 a.m. Thursday through Monday; reservations are required.
This casual wine and specialty food market, owned by fine wine and specialty food expert Wendy Lamer, serves up a combination of local and imported wines and artisan food, from tapas like piquillo peppers stuffed with goat cheese to smoked duck breast sliders with sour cherry jam. The wine list is extensive and circles the globe: from right around the corner in Anderson Valley to France’s Rhone region.
The talented team at Boonville Hotel have added yet another delicious reason to spend time in their neighborhood: Offspring Pizza. Watch pizzas slide in and out of the wood-fired oven at this new restaurant, located across the street from the hotel in the Farrer Building.
On a typical day, you’ll find a handful of pizza options on the menu at Offspring. Open Tuesday through Sunday. BYOB.
Pizza from Offspring Wood Fired Pizza at the Farrer Building. (Courtesy of Offspring Wood Fired Pizza)
Make it a Weekend
If you’d like to spend the night, the rooms at Boonville Hotel are dreamy and Instagram-worthy. The hotel restaurant serves multi-course meals by Michelin-starred chef Perry Hoffman, formerly of Healdsburg SHED. A four-course prix fix menu ($68 per person) is served Thursday, Sunday and Monday. On Friday and Saturday, the menu consists of five courses and is $86 per person. Dinner menus for the week are posted every Wednesday on the hotel website. Save time to explore the hotel garden, which is also impressive. Rates start at $195.
The Madrones is another excellent place to rest your head in Anderson Valley. The Mediterranean-inspired resort has nine rooms. Its sister property, The Brambles, is located just next door and has another five rooms. Rates start at $250. The striking compound also boasts a restaurant, a pair of wine tasting rooms, an herbal apothecary and shopping.