Alexander Valley Film Fest Screens Powerful Films About Family This Mother’s Day Weekend

The 8th annual Alexander Valley Film Festival, newly rebranded as AVFest, concludes this Sunday with the documentary Kaepernick & America and a closing night party at Healdsburg’s Barndiva and Matheson restaurants, capping 10 days of in-person screenings in Cloverdale, Geyserville, Healdsburg, Windsor and Santa Rosa.

This year, the festival included 38 feature films and 40 short films from 18 countries. On Saturday and Sunday — Mother’s Day weekend — it will screen two documentaries with powerful stories about family.

Jimmy in Saigon, a feature documentary by Los Angeles-based filmmaker Peter McDowell and executive producer Dan Savage, will make its West Coast premiere Saturday at the Clover Theater in Cloverdale and will screen again Sunday at Orsi Family Vineyards in Healdsburg. Mama Bears, a feature documentary by Emmy award-winning director Daresha Kyi, will play Sunday at Orsi Family Vineyards. Both directors will be in attendance for Q&As after the screenings.

Jimmy in Saigon follows McDowell as he embarks on a decade-long journey that takes him across the United States, Vietnam and France in a quest to learn more about the life and death of his older brother Jim, or Jimmy. Jimmy was drafted into the army during the Vietnam War and returned to Saigon after his tour ended. He died there, under mysterious circumstances, in 1972 when he was 24 and McDowell only five.

The years pass and McDowell’s family grieves Jimmy’s death in silence. But as he grows up, McDowell discovers that he cannot rest with so many unanswered questions about his brother. In an effort to discover the cause of his brother’s death and to find out more about who he was, he seeks out those who knew Jimmy during his final years.

In conversations with Jimmy’s friends and with family members, and by reading over 200 letters his brother wrote and sent, McDowell gains a deeper connection with the older brother he barely knew in life and learns that Jimmy was likely gay. McDowell, who also is gay, uncovers a powerful bond between his brother and a young Vietnamese man, who also has passed away, and ultimately brings their respective families together so that both men can be honored.

“When someone dies, I don’t think closure is really possible,” said McDowell. “Turning deeper within and learning more about oneself and the person is, to me, a more realistic goal. Our family is talking about this much, much more than we ever did.”

On Sunday, Jimmy in Saigon will screen just after Mama Bears at Orsi Family Vineyards in Healdsburg.

Mama Bears premiered at the South by Southwest festival in Austin, Texas, in March 2022. The feature-length documentary follows a groups of conservative, Christian mothers whose lives are transformed when they decide to “affirm and advocate on behalf of their LGBTQ children.” The women, realizing that their love of God cannot come at the expense of their gay and trans children, support one another in a private Facebook group, which they call “Mama Bears.”

The documentary explores the women’s emotional journey, from grief toward personal growth, as they lose the support of their evangelical community and later find a new sense of belonging through the LGBTQ community and the Mama Bears group. They come to realize that faith in God and unconditional love for the LGBTQ community can coexist and they decide to express this through action:

One mother fights an anti-trans bathroom bill in Texas while fiercely advocating for her young daughter; another launches the national Free Mom Hugs movement, which embraces people (figuratively and literally) who have been shunned from their families because of their gender or sexuality; a third joins the Reformation Project, a Christian organization that informs about “the biblical case for LGBTQ inclusion” and shows how Christians can “fully affirm both the Bible and LGBTQ people.”

In a time of pandemic, war and what often appears as irreconcilable political differences, we could all use a reminder that stories about family and love — stories that many of us can relate to, irrespective of who we are, where we came from or what we believe — have the power to bring people together.

Individual tickets to Jimmy in Saigon and Mama Bears can be purchased online at avfilmpresents.org/film-festival/individual-tickets.

What to Eat Right Now in Sonoma County

Bacon Cheeseburger, Dirty Fries with Al Pastor and “Corn” Dog with elote at Buns Only food truck. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

Personal anecdotes about everyday meals are one of the best things about the myriad food newsletters that clutter my inbox every morning. Maybe it’s a great eggs Benedict at a local diner, an unexpectedly tasty margarita or a friend’s towering Hawaiian burger.

Looking through my photo reel, I realized that so many of my own delicious moments end up on the cutting room floor, getting held up for a later print story or just forgotten altogether. What a tragedy!

So, this week, I’m sharing a few recent stops worth checking out. Let’s call it a peek behind the curtain while I’m crafting longer stories. If you like this format, let me know at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com.

Onto the eats!

Lagunitas Brewing Company Taproom

I’ve been to quite a few breweries lately for an upcoming story on food trucks. Even though I’m more of a wine girl than a hops girl, I’m amazed by some of the IPA-ternatives like sour beers, seltzers and thick smoothie hybrids. Oh, heavenly summer, I fell in love with Lagunitas’ Sumpin’ Tiki-ish and summer Mai Tai beer cocktail last weekend. These light and fruity fizzers are tasty, packing a walloping 9.2% alcohol content. The taproom menu is super approachable, with fish and chips, tacos, burgers and sandwiches. But the banh mi tacos with smoked short rib, soy glaze and sriracha aioli were the perfect pairing with an IPA and lemon drop DogTown seltzer. The large outdoor dining patio is dog-, kid- and bro-friendly.

Open 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday, 1280 N. McDowell Blvd., 707-778-8776, lagunitas.com.

Buns Only

This new-ish food truck is a marriage of burgers, hot dogs and tacos. Perfectly cooked burgers with cheese and bacon and a laundry list of other goodies are some of the most satisfying we’ve come across, along with wacky hot dogs (ours was loaded with elote and crema) and a mound of “dirty fries” with sweet al pastor, guacamole, onions, cheese, escabeche (pickled carrots and jalapeños) and crema. Seek this truck out.

Instagram @bunsonlysr for locations. (If you’re looking for the best way to track local food truck schedules, check out @socofoodtrucks on Instagram.)

Lila’s Streetside Eats

I’ve been tracking this truck for a couple of years but only recently sampled Lila Mathia’s eclectic pub-grub at Parliament Brewing (I’m loving their apricot sour beer). Lila’s Mojo Nachos are a messy mountain of deliciousness with smokey pulled pork, pickled jalapeños, sweet corn, black bean salsa and homemade lime-cilantro crema. The food lineup changes frequently, but her browned butter chocolate chip ice cream sandwiches are a warm-weather version of cookies and milk.

@lilasstreetsideeats on Instagram.

Tips Roadside Test Kitchen

On the fourth Tuesday of each month, this Kenwood roadhouse makes a special four-course dinner on the patio for 50 guests (by reservation only). Long communal tables are a convivial way to try off-menu dishes paired with local wines. If you’re lucky, you’ll get to try Tips’ new pitmaster Damian Brugger’s tasty smoked meats. The next event happens May 24.

8445 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-509-0078, tipsroadside.com

Foie Gras

After the on-again, off-again ban on foie gras in California, it’s been hard to follow whether the fatty goose liver is legal. We must have missed the news during the pandemic: as of 2020, it is legal again. California still bans the sale of foie gras within the state, but it can be purchased and shipped from elsewhere. Before my first bite of foie gras this week, it had been years since I last experienced the silky taste. If you see it on a restaurant menu (it’s cropping up frequently again), you can rest assured that you won’t end up in jail.

Sleek, Modern Fountaingrove Rebuild Listed for $2.8 Million

A sleek and modern 5-bedroom, 5.5-bath home in Santa Rosa’s Fountaingrove neighborhood is currently listed for 2.795 million. The property on 3726 Crown Hill Drive is one of many rebuilds following the 2017 Tubbs Fire, but the design is a departure from the more traditional homes that have dominated this area before and after the fire.

The home was built by Sukhdev Singh, of Eia Mia Inc., who has completed six other projects in Fountaingrove, according to the home’s listing agent, Sudha Schlesinger. Singh brought on architect Fumio Suda to design the home to include the preferences of Singh’s earlier clients. The result is what Schlessigner calls an “edgy contemporary in the sky,” referencing the home’s clean lines and its position high up on the hill overlooking the canyon.

The sleek exterior has strong horizontal lines, a flat roof and little ornamentation; all typical of modern design. The home is surrounded by concrete and the vegetation is minimal: Plants are located away from the walls and in so-called islands, a minimalist aesthetic that is also a more fire-resilient choice. The interior is warmed up by lots of light and textured finishes like quartzite walls in the bathroom, concrete-looking kitchen cabinets and wood paneling to accent a wine shelving.

Design details by Santa Rosa-based stagers, Staged Right, add additional warmth. Stark modernity is countered with touches of rich color (mustard and oranges), nubby-textured fabrics, and furniture (like ottomans and chairs) in playful rounded forms.

The top-of-the-canyon view gives the home that “in the sky” airiness. The burnt trees in the canyon have been cut down, which gives a sense of vastness to the area. Schlesinger says the home is positioned high enough on the hill that you can see red-tailed hawks flying from the windows.

The flat roof can accommodate a rooftop patio, accessible from the inside of the home — a perfect spot for lounging and entertaining. Click through the above gallery for a peek inside.

The home at 3726 Crown Hill Drive is listed with Sudha Schlesinger and Sam Marvi of Engel & Völkers Real Estate. For more information, call 707-889-7778; email sudha@sschlesinger.com or visit findyourwinecountryhome.com/crownhill

Peek Inside the Most Expensive Home Sold in Sonoma Last Month

Editor’s note: This home sold for $7,150,000 (the listing price). It was the most expensive home sold in Sonoma County in April, 2022. 

When Lisa and John Leeb designed their Sonoma home they did it in a way that encourages togetherness. In contrast to most home renovations, the couple decided to make their new home smaller to better suit their needs. They then worked with local Apache Builders to bring their design ideas to fruition. The result — a 3-bedroom, 2.5-bath farmhouse-style home with an expansive great room, lush garden and an animal sanctuary — recently sold for $7,150,000. 

Gathering is a through line in the home’s design. The great room, for example, offers several areas for activities that bring people together: piano playing, lounging, cocktail hour at the bar and meals by the dining table. Upstairs, there’s more space for lounging and playing games and music. The spacious bedrooms also are upstairs, as well as bathrooms, one of which has a tiled shower with a door opening toward the yard, which has an additional shower outdoors.

The home has Sonoma’s signature tranquil-white aesthetic but it has been livened up with colorful artwork and vintage pieces. Contrast is a well-used design tactic throughout the home: A graphic black-and-beige rug offers a weighty counterpoint to an ornamental chandelier in the main bathroom. Modern lamps contrast with moldings and trims in other rooms.

An extra dwelling on the property is just as pretty as the main home, with built-in bunk beds, bathroom and a kitchen. Accents bring the space to life, such as textured fabrics and petrified beehive pendant lamps in the bathroom.

The Sonoma home is set on 1 acre. The garden has a manicured look and consists mostly of geometrically trimmed boxwoods and privets, vines of table grapes and a row of privacy-keeping redwoods. The limited use of plant varieties gives the property a clean look. A trellis, stone fire pit and wood furniture accented with white cushions add to the elegant outdoor scene.

Beyond the manicured garden, things get a little more rustic. There are ten gardening beds, a chicken coop and mini barn, where the Leebs have been housing rescued animals — two miniature horses, a goat and some chickens. 

The animals have been an added source of togetherness in the close-knit Sonoma neighborhood. Neighbors have gathered for “Mailbox Fridays” to chat, sip wine, nibble on appetizers (laid out at the mailbox) and check out the animals at the sanctuary. While the animals will move with the Leebs to their next home, the couple hopes the Mailbox Fridays tradition will continue.

9 of World’s Best Restaurants Are in the North Bay

An artistically presented dish from Farmhouse Inn restaurant in Forestville. (Courtesy of Farmhouse Inn)
The Forbes Travel Guide just announced its 2022 winners for the world’s best restaurants, naming nine of its favorites in the North Bay. Though several have either been closed or have had major chef changes in the last year they still got nods (oddly). Regardless, here is the Forbes list of starred and recommended Sonoma and Napa restaurants. Scroll through the gallery to see the winners…

Sonoma Wineries and Restaurants Team Up for New Pairings

Oyster and chardonnay pairing at Three Sticks Wines in Sonoma. (Courtesy of Three Sticks Wines)

Just in time for long sunny days, some of our favorite wineries, distilleries and restaurants are serving up new and creative pairings.

Medlock Ames in Healdsburg has teamed up with Sonoma County’s only three-star Michelin restaurant, Single Thread, while Three Sticks Wines in downtown Sonoma continues its collaboration with neighboring El Dorado Kitchen. Also in Sonoma, family-owned Hanson of Sonoma distillery has launched a new lunch pairing series.

Forget all the dos and don’ts you’ve been told to follow throughout the years, these unique combinations of food and drinks are deliciously rewriting all of the rules.

A Michelin-starred bento box with wine

In case you needed yet another reason to head to Healdsburg, Medlock Ames has joined forces with Michelin-starred Single Thread Farms and Restaurant for its newest tasting experience.

The Wine Pairing Lunch will include a chef-curated bento box from Single Thread; each item is paired with Medlock Ames’ organically farmed Bell Mountain Vineyard wines. The seated experience will take place in the olive grove next to the winery’s historic Alexander Valley tasting room.

 

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Medlock Ames also is offering a new kind of Wine Country outing at its Bell Mountain Ranch. As part of the winery’s Immersive Sound Experience, visitors can meander through the vineyards, olive grove and California oaks of the 338-acre estate with GPS-cued headphones that provide narration on the winery’s commitment to sustainability and land preservation. Think museum audio guide, but outdoors and with wine at the end of the tour.

The Wine Pairing Lunch with Single Thread at Medlock Ames’ Healdsburg tasting room will be offered once a month throughout 2022, starting in June. Reservations are required. $150 per person.

3487 Alexander Valley Road, Healdsburg, 707-431-8845, medlockames.com

Oysters and chardonnay at the Adobe

In partnership with El Dorado Kitchen in Sonoma, Three Sticks Wines is pairing a flight of three single vineyard chardonnays with half-dozen oysters on the half shell. In addition to learning about terroir and its impact on wine, guests will discover the mostly unknown world of merroir — how the bivalves’ flavors are influenced by their marine surroundings.

The pairing features farmed oysters from both coasts. Oyster selections include the Pickering Passage from South Puget Sound, Washington; the Beausoleil from New Brunswick, Canada; and the Kusshi from Vancouver Island, British Columbia. The oysters are served without lemon or sauce in order not to mask their natural flavor.

Three Sticks’ tasting room is located in the historic Vallejo-Casteñada Adobe, built in 1842 by Captain Salvador Vallejo, the infamous brother of General Mariano Vallejo. It was restored by winery owners Bill and Eva Price and has seating indoors and outdoors on a patio.

The Oysters and Chardonnay experience is offered Monday through Friday, through July. 48 hours notice is required. $95 per person.

143 West Spain St., Sonoma, 707-996-3328, threestickswines.com

A three-course lunch pairing in Sonoma

Hanson of Sonoma distillery is kicking off its new Lunch Pairing Series with a “Land & Sea” feast. The menu will change monthly; first up is a three-course meal that includes Snake River Farms Wagyu steak and Mount Lassen trout paired with three cocktails.

An industry standout for making vodka from grapes instead of grains or potatoes, Hanson of Sonoma launched in 2015 with an organic vodka. Owned and operated by four siblings and their parents, the distillery now produces a variety of vodkas that are all certified organic, from the Original to the flavored Habanero, Cucumber, Meyer Lemon, Mandarin and Ginger.

The distillery’s Lunch Pairing Series is available Friday through Sunday. The menu changes monthly. Reservations are required. $125 per person.

22985 Burndale Road, Sonoma, 707-343-1805, hansonofsonoma.com 

15 Amazing Desserts You Need To Try In Sonoma County

Chocolate Lava Cake from Lazeaway Club at Flamingo Resort in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Sometimes dessert gets short shrift. After a big meal, waving away the dessert menu happens more often than not, but it’s time to embrace your inner sweet tooth. Click through the above gallery for 15 of our favorite sugary goodies.

Meet 7 Local Climate Heroes Working to Change the World

Kailea Frederick, 30, Vice-Chair of the Petaluma Climate Commission. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)

These Sonoma County residents are facing the challenges of long-term changes to our climate — and are finding reasons to hope.

The Forester

Dan Falk, Cazadero 

Branches, brush, stumps and vines: Timber and agricultural operations produce a lot of organic waste. And it doesn’t exactly fit in the green bin. A common solution is to send unwanted byproducts up in smoke through large burn piles.

But for Dan Falk and his team at Richardson Ranch—a family-owned lumber, cattle, and wine grape operation near Cazadero—the status quo needed updating. That so-called waste needed to be seen as a usable resource, its valuable carbon returned to the earth rather than lost to the atmosphere, where it would contribute to climate change.

Since 2019, Falk has been a leader in demonstrating a better way to recycle wood waste with the Tigercat 6050 Carbonator.

This $750,000 piece of machinery converts wood into biochar, a process that reduces emissions and allows carbon to be returned to the soil, where it can improve plant health. Falk’s ranch currently has the only Carbonator in California, but Falk leases out the machine for special projects and says that he hopes the idea will catch on widely soon, particularly with all the fire cleanup happening up and down the state each year.

— Nate Seltenrich

Dan Falk, fifth generation Sonoma County resident, Thursday, Jan. 13, 2022 in the hills above Sonoma County. Falk purchased a Tiger Cat Carbonizer a machine the processes a large amount of wood and slash at the right temperature to create biochar. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat) 2022
Rancher Dan Falk recycles wood waste into biochar, a charcoal-like material that can be spread on grasslands to sequester carbon and improve the soil. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)
Dan Falk, fifth generation Sonoma County resident standing on a large large mound of biochar, Thursday, Jan. 13, 2022. Falk purchased a Tiger Cat Carbonizer, a machine the processes a large amount of wood and slash at the right temperature to create biochar. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat) 2022
Rancher Dan Falk recycles wood waste into biochar, a charcoal-like material that can be spread on grasslands to sequester carbon and improve the soil. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)

Generational stewardship: I’m fifth-generation. The land has been in management about 150 years. And if you don’t change with the changing times, you get kind of left behind in the old ways. With the biochar machine, the Carbonator, we’re looking at different ways to grow cleaner, healthier timber trees, and also grasses for our cattle, so they’re healthier, too.

Circular thinking: Using the resources we have, we make a big circle, from the forest to the range and essentially back to the forest again, sustaining the landscape and our ranch by taking what we have and then putting that back in. This helps the land be more productive and supports a healthier climate, by storing carbon instead of releasing it.

Rehabbing soils: The more water that is retained in your rangeland soil, the longer your grass or forage stays green. When we put the carbon back into the forest, trees can stay healthier with more water in these stressed times. It helps from the ground down to rehabilitate soils, to maintain and retain microorganisms, to create a healthier soil profile.

Biochar and fire recovery: Where these machines would really thrive is with fire cleanup. Instead of the typical chipping, grinding, and hauling to the cogeneration plant, you turn around and put all this woody material through the Carbonator and turn it into biochar. You’re producing a significantly lower volume of material, and you’re storing the carbon, which you can put back into the forest. You’re not actually burning up all these resources.

The Inspiration

Kailea Frederick, Petaluma

Last year, Petaluma’s Climate Action Commission embarked on a climate “moonshot” goal of pushing the city to become carbon neutral by 2030. “It’s a huge task, but this is the reality that we need to be facing,” says Kailea Frederick, who has been part of the citizen-led advisory group since its inception. “We have a small window to make these changes. And it’s created a ripple effect in other cities, pushing them towards similar commitments. That’s something I’m really proud of.”

Frederick’s climate work spans geographies, identities, and generations: Raised on Maui and nudged towards activism by her grandmother, she is now raising a family in Petaluma, and works as a campaigner with the NDN Collective, a national Indigenous-led organization focused on climate justice.

Developing climate solutions through a Native lens has been core to her work, explains Frederick, who is of Tahltan, Kaska, and Black American ancestry.

“Indigenous people have brilliant ideas and innovations that need to be invested in if we’re going to get out of this current crisis,” she says.

— Kristin Moe

Kailea Frederick, 30, Vice-Chair of the Petaluma Climate Commission at the Foundry Wharf in Petaluma, California. January 11, 2022. (Photo: Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)
Kailea Frederick believes her work in Petaluma has created ripples of change in other communities. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)

Local resilience: One of the things that keeps me up at night is thinking about how unprepared individuals are for high heat, or fire, or smoke. That really scares me. Disaster preparedness is, in some ways, the conversation of our times. It’s one of the reasons I coauthored the book, “Compassion in Crisis: Learning to Live in an Age of Disaster.” It’s something we could all become more comfortable speaking with each other about.

Kid wisdom: My son is three and a half, and when I’m working, he’ll sometimes ask, “What do you do?” I say, “I’m trying to help the earth feel good, and help people feel good on the earth.” Coming up with these simplified explanations for him has been really grounding.

A quiet power: Because I wasn’t trained in policy and advocacy, I doubted my ability to do this work. But this is something that people can learn. Local commissions hold a lot of power, but it’s a quiet power that most people aren’t aware of. People always ask me the question, “What can I do?” Right now, the answer I have is: become political! This is truly an ”all-handson-deck” moment. There is a place for everyone.

The Educator

Tessa Hill, Bodega Bay 

As a young professor, ocean climate scientist Tessa Hill found herself having to footnote her own lectures to account for rapid changes in the marine environment to which she was introducing her students. Then it struck her that she’d been granted a rare gift: the opportunity to help young people cut through the noise about the earth’s future.

“I had a realization that probably the most important part of my job was my time spent in that room with 200 undergraduates, because I had a chance to help those students start to think critically about what they were reading in the newspaper or seeing on TV,” Hill says.

“They were going to go into the world and start their professional lives. They were also going to be voters, and I wanted them to know about the ocean, and I wanted them to vote knowing about the ocean.”

At the UC Davis-Bodega Marine Laboratory in Bodega Bay, Hill researches ocean acidification and its impacts on shellfish and coral, as well as opportunities for carbon storage in seagrasses and other plant life. And as a mother and community leader in Sebastopol, Hill is passionate about public engagement, science education, and holding elected officials accountable for science-based decision-making. “We’re going to spend a lot of time both addressing climate change and also adapting to climate change,” she says, “and the longer the time we take to address it, the more adaptation we have in store.”

— Mary Callahan

Tessa Hill studies the way our oceans adapt to warmer temperatures—and helps her students think more critically about climate change. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Tessa Hill studies the way our oceans adapt to warmer temperatures—and helps her students think more critically about climate change. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

On useful discoveries: One of the things I love about the science we do is that it’s right at the interface. I get to ask really interesting scientific questions about fundamental things that we should know about marine animals and the ocean. But the thing is, I know the answers can then be handed off to the people who can use them.

The web of history:  The issue of climate change doesn’t stand alone. It is completely intertwined with all the other issues we are facing in our country. It’s intertwined with our very long history of racism. It’s intertwined with our history of colonialism and capitalism.

A balance to strike: We have grief, loss, and anxiety about the planet that we’re living on, but we also have the knowledge and [the] actions to take. Those two things, they go together. And acknowledging that both exist is really important. Whatever we can do to cultivate hope and optimism and also tend to the grief and the anxiety and the loss, we have to do those things, because we are not at a place where we can just stop work on these problems.

The Visionary

Steve Heckeroth, Santa Rosa 

Steve Heckeroth hopes to transform farming with electric tractors. It’s a goal he’s had since the early 1990s, when the longtime sustainability expert found himself building electric sports cars from scratch, outfitting replica Porsche Spyder frames with 1,200 pounds of lead-acid batteries.

Heckeroth now serves as Chief Innovation Officer for Solectrac, a Santa Rosa-based company he founded in 2012.

He makes a strong case for tractors and other farm vehicles going electric, not only for sustainability, but for improved functionality—the weight of the batteries carried on board improves traction and balances heavy farm implements. Solectrac currently operates out of a 10,000 squarefoot facility near the airport, where employees perform final assembly and testing of the company’s three tractor models. Last June, Solectrac was acquired by electric-vehicle behemoth Ideanomics, a move that allowed the company to scale production. The company is about to take over a new, even larger space, which the CIO thinks it will probably outgrow within just a few years.

Heckeroth says despite all this progress, he still relishes a good, old-fashioned tractor showdown. “There are guys that are all about ‘noise plus smoke equals power,’” he says. “They’re on their diesel tractor in the tractor pull with my electric, and they’re just getting pulled away like they can’t believe it. They’re immediately converts; they’re like born again.”

— Nate Seltenrich

Steve Heckeroth is the founder and chief innovation officer of Solectrac, which produces electric tractors. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
Steve Heckeroth believes the changeover to electric farm vehicles will spark further innovation in sustainable farming. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

The a-ha moment: I was at the [Mendocino] County Fair [in 1992], and I saw this big cement block on the back of a tractor to balance the weight of the forklift that they had fitted on the front. And I thought, ‘Gosh, that’s a pretty heavy weight. That should be batteries.’ And that’s what made me switch my whole focus from cars to tractors.

Selling points: I think climate change has a lot to do with people’s perception, because it’s pretty hard to deny that the climate is changing at this point. This has helped push electric cars into the forefront of people’s minds. Plus, there are so many advantages to electric: low maintenance, quiet, the instant power. Especially for tractors — I mean, tractors are all about torque.

The market: There are 600 million farms in the world, and only 25 million tractors. So the market is really here for an inexpensive small tractor. I want to fill that market so that subsistence farms can be about 10 to 20 times as productive. If we can get tractors on farms that are using hand tools or oxen, then we can literally feed the world.

Janina Turner frames everyday decisions around choice. 'We don't have to be living in a world fueled by a climate crisis.' (Erik Casto/for Sonoma Magazine)
Janina Turner frames everyday decisions around choice. ‘We don’t have to be living in a world fueled by a climate crisis.’ (Erik Casto/for Sonoma Magazine)

The Youth Leader

Janina Turner, Santa Rosa

Janina Turner is not naive about what’s happening in our world. She is more aware of the challenges confronting us than she might like. She also has faith that the worst can be averted if informed, committed people act with the necessary urgency. “What it really takes is for people to understand that a better future is possible,” Turner says.

“We get a lot of climate messaging that is really doom and gloom, but a part of it is building a better world,” reflected in just housing, smarter transportation, and healthier food, she says. “I think it’s just painting the picture that we don’t have to be living in a world fueled by a climate crisis.”

But Turner believes it’s an “emergency,” with little time left to make a difference, so she is working the problem on two fronts. In her day job as energy program coordinator at the nonprofit Climate Center, the Sonoma State University grad is focused on efforts to promote policies that reduce reliance on fossil fuels, specifically through increased electrification.

Turner also works as a local leader with the national, youth-directed Sunrise Movement, which advocates for climate justice—the only way, she believes, to ensure that climate solutions don’t leave some people out. Says Turner: “People power translates to political power, and that’s truly how the movement works.”

— Mary Callahan 

A public face: On a national level, whether it’s a protest or a hunger strike, we’re not just targeting politicians to take action, but we’re also being so public because we want the public to know these are causes that are so important, that affect you and everyone around you.

Strength in numbers: Being a part of the Sunrise Movement and, like, any environmental movement, and really fighting for something and being with likeminded people, that’s a great motivator. I’ve really bonded over being part of this community.

Fight for the future: Even though we know that climate change is real and happening and is obviously impacting our future, we still want to fight for a livable future. It’s our right to thrive and to live here. It’s really for my future. It’s for the future generations under me. And it’s hard work. It really does require a lot of positivity, even in the face of a living disaster.

The Planner

Nina Hapner, The North Coast 

When Nina Hapner considers the needs of a changing landscape, she looks forward—and she looks back. As director of environmental planning for the Kashia Band of Pomo Indians of the Stewarts Point Rancheria, Hapner hopes to restore balance to hundreds of acres of tribal land along the North Coast.

She’s also seeking opportunities to blend generational knowledge with modern land management approaches, promoting both the health of the land in which the Kashia people have long held a stake, and the availability of plants and foods important to cultural traditions.

In 2015, the tribe acquired the 678-acre Kashia Coastal Reserve at the northern edge of Salt Point State Park, a move that ensures permanent access to coastal waters, where elders can pass on traditional harvest customs. Hapner, who is of Tsalagi heritage, works closely with Kashia members to develop goals for the land. Her team is working with local partners to monitor changes in marine species important to the tribe, and to collect observations from elders about past ocean and marine life conditions. “Resilience for the Kashia means reciprocity – using resources in such a way that there’s still some the next time you need it,” she says.

— Mary Callahan

Nina Hapner's work in the Kashia Coastal Reserve conserves land for traditional fishing and foraging practices. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
Nina Hapner’s work in the Kashia Coastal Reserve conserves land for traditional fishing and foraging practices. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

Respecting tribal knowledge: Sometimes people say, ‘Oh yeah, I talked to this sixth-generation salmon fisherman, and this is what they told me.’ And when a tribal member tells them the same thing, it’s disregarded. So working with tribal members, we’re trying to get their stories, with the work that we do and the monitoring that we’re putting together.

The coastal reserve: The land has been managed for cattle grazing, sheep grazing, and timber harvesting. That doesn’t fit with the tribe wanting to collect traditional foods, medicinal plants—things that they know about and have been unable to look at in unfettered ways.

A few curveballs: We talk about resilience, and that’s really what we need, but how do we know if we’re resilient? Nobody knows. Every year is a curve. Already this year the amount of snow between the East Coast and the Sierras—holy moly!

The Storyteller

Maya Khosla, Rohnert Park 

As a child, Maya Khosla remembers waking up to her mother’s early morning ritual of listening to the birds. This is how Khosla learned that there was something important about listening to wildlife. “Little did I know, I’d grow up to do a lot of that—both in poetry and in filmmaking, as well as as a biologist. All these pieces come together in that single memory of my mom.”

Khosla has spent years doing biological fieldwork across Sonoma and the North Bay. In 2014, she was asked to study forests that had burned in wildfires. What she observed—and, she says, what hundreds of other studies support—is that, rather than being dead zones, post-fire forests are places where life not only returns, but thrives. “You might say that life returns in waves: insects come in, the birds come for the insects, then hawks and predator birds come for the smaller birds. Then, maybe some chicks fall from the nest onto the ground, and suddenly you have bobcats and mountain lions and bears. All these incredible layers of the wild coming back and claiming it for themselves.”

There’s also new plant growth: leaves, wildflowers, mushrooms. Even the blackened trees may begin to sprout bright-green shoots. “It’s a new aesthetic that we’re not used to,” she says. “To see all of these charcoal-colored trees looking so stark — and they’re also full of life!”

In 2018, Khosla, who has published several volumes of poetry, used her platform as Sonoma County’s Poet Laureate to bring together communities around the topic of healing from fire. She organized a series of community events at burn sites in the early stages of regeneration from the 2017 fires. Youth and adults were invited to meet, write and read their work, surrounded by the post-fire landscape in bloom. Similarly, her films “Firewise: The Scientists Speak” and “Rejuvenation Poem” explore California’s fire ecology — and the policies that shape our relationship to it.

— Kristin Moe

Filmmaker Maya Khosla is currently studying the landscape's recovery—and documenting the pursuits of a young family of foxes—deep in the burn area of the 2020 Walbridge fire. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)
Filmmaker Maya Khosla is currently studying the landscape’s recovery—and documenting the pursuits of a young family of foxes—deep in the burn area of the 2020 Walbridge fire. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)

Let it be: There’s a belief right now that we have to “thin” forests — that if we remove 50% or more of the trees, make it neat and organized, that it’ll behave in a fire. And over and over, the data says that’s not going to happen; the fire races through just the same.

Similarly, if we believe that a forest is “finished” after a fire, that’s an excuse to go in and log it. But if you leave it alone, that carbon remains in place, and you’ve got a beautiful accumulation of biomass. The forest is going to come back. Let it take care of itself, because it will.

The aesthetic of the comeback: One of the things that I’m hearing a lot is that it’s ‘too late’— we can try to tame climate change, but we’re losing everything. But I hope people can think about the aesthetic of the comeback: even when something looks far gone, there is hope that it’ll make the comeback it needs to make, if we don’t drag the machinery of extraction through it and try to tame it in some way.

Weaving poetry and biology: Both, to me, are about intimate connections: the look in the eyes of the great gray owl as she swoops down to get her meal; the sound of a mountain lion you’re tracking— but who is actually tracking you. These intimate moments bring you back into connection with something you maybe gave up hope for. You get centered in that moment of discovery. We are losing a lot. But the hope lies in these little intimate moments that bring you back, and that’s to me at the heart of poetry, and at the heart of biology. It’s where they come together.

 

See Sonoma from Above in These Stunning Photos

Along the coast, Dillon Beach houses perch at the edge of a cliff—as close to the Pacific as you will see in any enclave from San Diego to Vancouver. (John Beck/for Sonoma Magazine)

It was all open space once, a land untamed and unpastured. Animal trails leading to water and Kashia Pomo footpaths eventually gave way to dirt roads worn down by settlers from as far away as Spain and Russia. Later paved over, the byways were replaced by overpasses and interstates.

From an eagle’s view, it might have appeared the land was being carved apart.

As more people arrived in Sonoma County, the lines of demarcation between built and unbuilt spaces spread in a maze of patterns, as farms, subdivisions, parks, downtowns, forests, rivers, gravel mines, and warehouses, all butted up against one another.

Today, the idea of “living on the edge” is less metaphor than reality. From above, these borders appear like seams in a patchwork quilt of human impressions on the land. In southwest Sonoma, a flower pattern is sewn against a solid patch of green, coming to life in a mobile-home park arranged like daisies, each single unit a petal around a pistil-shaped court, a bouquet beside an open meadow.

Above Cloverdale. (John Beck/for Sonoma Magazine)
Above Cloverdale. (John Beck/for Sonoma Magazine)

A fallow field next to an east Petaluma neighborhood lies charred black. Hay farmers live side by side with soccer moms, down the road from a water treatment plant and a hospital. On the eastern edge of Rohnert Park, new development stamps order upon a sea of wild green grass painted with wisps of seasonal pools. And along the coast, Dillon Beach houses perch at the edge of a cliff — as close to the Pacific as you will see in any enclave from San Diego to Vancouver.

These endless boundaries bind together urban, suburban, and rural landscapes, not unlike the lines that artists Christo and Jeanne-Claude played with in their “Running Fence” back in 1976. At night, they occupy the same liminal space evoked by Bruce Springsteen on the album “Darkness on the Edge of Town.” In the daylight, they become ribbons of unending possibility, like those a child might imagine while listening to Shel Silverstein’s “Where the Sidewalk Ends” for the first time.

Looking down from above, it makes you wonder what Sonoma County looked like 500 years ago or 100 years ago or even 10 years ago. Open space hardly means what it once did, before the fires. Then again, there were always fires. And it was all open space once.

Farm-Forward Flavors at Healdsburg’s Little Saint

Purple haze carrots with shaved red cabbage, crunchy rice, XO sauce at Little Saint in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

As chef de cuisine of the much-anticipated Little Saint cafe and restaurant in Healdsburg, Brian Oliver has spent the last seven months studying the subtleties of plant-based emulsifiers.

He’s been on a mission to make sure aquafaba (chickpea water) doesn’t taste like beans and has tackled the challenges of creating a satisfying buttercream without butter or cream. When building an entirely plant-based menu with a Michelin-starred restaurant’s exacting standards, sometimes it’s as much about chemistry as it is about cuisine.

“In the first few months, we were not trying to figure out a menu but exploring the world of plant-based foods,” Oliver said at the restaurant’s April 22 debut. “There was a lot of playing around.”

More than a food hall, the 10,000-square-foot building that once housed SHED Modern Grange has been transformed into multi-use art, music and performance space with a 72-seat restaurant, bar and market selling wine and produce. A collaboration between Kyle and Katina Connaughton of Healdsburg’s upscale Single Thread; designer Ken Fulk; philanthropist Jeff Ubben and his wife, animal activist Laurie Ubben; and program director Jenny Hess, Little Saint aims to forge a new vision for vegan dining and sustainable living.

Chef Bryan Oliver of Little Saint in downtown Healdsburg on April 22, 2022. (Chad Surmick/The Press Democrat)
Chef Bryan Oliver of Little Saint in downtown Healdsburg. (Chad Surmick/The Press Democrat)
Chef Bryan Oliver’s Saintly Greens with red wine vinaigrette at Little Saint during Friday’s grand opening in downtown Healdsburg on April 22, 2022. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Chef Bryan Oliver’s Saintly Greens with red wine vinaigrette at Little Saint in downtown Healdsburg. (Chad Surmick/The Press Democrat)

Not that Little Saint is all about over-constructed, needlessly precious dishes. Thirty acres of dedicated farmland in the Alexander Valley provide the still-warm-from-the-garden seasonal fruits and vegetables that form the menu’s foundation, and Oliver aims to create crave-able cuisine that just happens not to include animal protein.

Still, he said, having the narrow parameters of a meatless, dairy-free and egg-free menu has made for compelling work.

“It’s almost freeing, in a lot of ways, to have limitations when you cook. You kind of stay in certain lanes,” he said.

Though the Little Saint team is still getting its bearings, a year of delays afforded the staff extra time for research and development. The purposefully cozy vibe and professionalism have been evident from the start.

Farm to your plate

You won’t find a fresh tomato on the menu at Little Saint until tomatoes are in season in Sonoma County. Here, the menu is driven by exactly what’s happening on the Connaughton’s 24-acre Single Thread Farm and the nearby Little Saint Farm.

Eschewing animal proteins was a natural evolution, according to Kyle Connaughton.

The couple’s steadfast commitment to micro-seasonality — using ingredients only at their moments of peak perfection— has brought international acclaim and three Michelin stars to Single Thread just five years after it opened. Little Saint delivers that same farm-to-table ethos at a fraction of the prices, with dishes from $5 hummus or lavash to $39 cauliflower biryani for two, with a middle $14 to $24 range for many dishes.

“The menu reflects this moment in the season, showcasing what’s here in Sonoma County today,” Kyle Connaughton said.

That also means preserving, pickling and drying ingredients for later use and a “closed loop” that encourages as little waste as possible.

For instance, Executive Bar Director Matthew Seigel’s Little Saint bar program uses the cooking water from beets and purple carrots to add color and an earthy bass note to cocktails. Chickpea water becomes foam. Working with Oliver, he tries to find uses for nearly everything coming into or out of the kitchen.

Cocktail from Little Saint in Healdsburg. (Chad Surmick/The Press Democrat)
Cocktail from Little Saint in Healdsburg. (Chad Surmick/The Press Democrat)
Cocktail from Little Saint in Healdsburg. (Chad Surmick/The Press Democrat)
Cocktail from Little Saint in Healdsburg. (Chad Surmick/The Press Democrat)

Drinks like the Frances Fizz combine pisco and Aperol, purple carrots and a sprinkle of dehydrated beet powder, sumac and salt. It’s dangerously delicious.

The pastry program, overseen by Single Thread’s pastry chef Baruch Ellsworth, is especially challenging without butter, eggs or milk. He uses vegan butter, nut and grain milk and egg replacements like flax.

“I wouldn’t take this opportunity unless I was willing to fail,” Ellsworth said. “The difficult part is getting the consistency regular and figuring out why. Making one batch isn’t the same as making 25 times the amount for retail. Sometimes the easiest things are the hardest.”

Keep in mind that dishes frequently change, even daily, but whatever’s on the menu will impress.

Best Bets

A grab-and-go “Larder” selection is available from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. It includes dips, prepared salads (beet salad with coconut yogurt, potato salad with soy milk aioli, farro with fresh asparagus), green salads, beverages and desserts. Bread from Melissa Yanc and Sean McGaughey of Quail and Condor are also available. It’s a good toe-dip into the flavors of Little Saint.

Soft Lavash ($5) with Shichimi Togarashi ($5), Quail and Condor Seeded Levain ($5) with Red Lentil Hummus, Pumpkin Seed Dip and Cultured Cashew Spread (all three dips for $14): The chorus of flavors work so harmoniously. Rip up the pocketed bread showered with dukkha-mimicking togarashi (chile, seaweed, sesame seed, orange peel) to dip in red lentil hummus with chile oil. Pumpkin seed dip has an earthier, nuttier flavor. We’re most fond of the cultured cashew spread, a creamy and tart cream-cheese like dip.

Cultured cashew spread, pumpkin seed dip, red lentil hummus with soft lavash at Little Saint in Healdsburg, 2022. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Cultured cashew spread, pumpkin seed dip, red lentil hummus with soft lavash at Little Saint in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Saintly Greens ($12): This is what every salad dreams of being — today’s mix of sunny field greens, herbs and lettuces, plus perhaps a slice of radish or carrot. An impossibly simple red wine vinaigrette dresses this natural beauty without overpowering it.

Roasted Beets ($15): This one is worth trying even if you hate beets. Pickled golden beets are tossed with fresh mandarins, pistachio and mint. Every bite is slightly different, but the zing of citrus and mint elevates the stalwart root veggies.

Purple Haze Carrots ($16): These deep purple carrots are cooked to just-tender, adding sweetness without falling apart. Crispy black rice looks a bit like dirt, a playful foil to the ground-dwelling vegetable, but adds a subtle crunch. A vegan version of XO sauce (a garlicky, smoky condiment usually made with dried fish and scallops) on top adds umami without the seafood.

Cauliflower Biryani for two ($39): Basmati rice, curried cauliflower and pickled golden raisins are finished in a wood-fired oven and topped with crispy onions and dried rose petals. Easily enough for three (or four), it’s a hearty Indian-inspired rice dish that lets the aromatic spices of cinnamon, turmeric, black pepper and nutmeg do all the talking. Sweet pickled kohlrabi and citrus hot sauce ramp up the flavors even more.

Rhubarb and Strawberry Tart ($14): You can’t go wrong with the seasonal fruit dessert. Sweet strawberry sauce is topped with crisp, acidic rhubarb for a light end to the meal.

Little Saint: The coffee and pastry bar is open from 6 a.m. to 4 p.m. The grab-and-go cafe is open from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Table service at the restaurant is from 6 to 9:30 p.m.; reservations are highly recommended as there is limited first-come, first-served seating. No reservations are needed for the bar. 25 North St., Healdsburg, littlesainthealdsburg.com.