Page 134 – Sonoma Magazine

15 Super Summery Eats and Drinks in Sonoma County

June 2022

By Heather Irwin

Banh mi tacos at Lagunitas Brewing in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/Press Democrat)

It’s the loveliest time of year in Sonoma County, when farm stands are laden with fresh strawberries, flower bouquets and first-of-the-season tomatoes. Boozy outdoor brunches and face-plants into giant waffle cones are now seasonally appropriate, along with hogging a lovely patio table for a little too long.

So, in the spirit of gas economy and weekend adventures, here are 15 recently discovered summery Sonoma County spots worth visiting. They’re all shorts- and sundress-approved and waiting for you to put your Hot Girl (or Boy) summer bod on the back burner and enjoy the delicious things in life.

Santa Rosa

Mangonada from Fru-ta: If summer had a flavor, it would be the sweet, sour, salty, spicy, icy mangonada at Fru-ta. Made with fresh mango, mango sorbet, lime, chamoy (a pickled stone fruit condiment) and lime and dusted with Tajin, it’s everything a cold drink should be. The tamarind paste-wrapped straw just adds to the puckery deliciousness. Pairs perfectly with Takilocos, a mixed bag of Takis rolled corn chips, peanuts, cucumber, lime, jicama and pickled pork rinds. Three Santa Rosa locations: 2770 Stony Point Road, 52 Mission Circle and 3080 Marlow Road. frutaicecream.com. Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.

A Mangonada made by Teresita Fernandez at La Michoacana in Sonoma. The drink consists of blended fresh mango with ice, swirled chamoy sauce, topped with mango chunks and tamarind candy, and a tamarind stick. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)

Shady Oak Barrel House: We love the lineup of food trucks as much as the funky beers at this downtown Santa Rosa brewery. Hang at the picnic tables in the back with some of the area’s best food trucks and pop-ups, including Smackin’ Soul Food, pizza from SoCo Supper Club or burgers from Lunch Box. 420 First St., 707-575-7687, shadyoakbarrelhouse.com. Open 3 to 9 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.

Geyserville

Rosé at Locals Tasting Room: Yes, Virginia, you still can taste wine for free. Though no purchase is required to sample the nearly 80 wines, chances are you’ll find at least one bottle to buy from this collective tasting room. The Dernier-Handal chenin blanc blend is a favorite summer sipper. 21023 Geyserville Ave., 707-814-0713, localstastingroom.com. Open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.

Dank beer and barbecued lamb at Corner Project Ales and Eats: At this family-run brewpub in Geyserville, one brother brews while the other operates the kitchen. More than just fried pub grub, Chef Tom Adamian’s menu includes lots of comforting dishes like meatball sliders, pulled lamb on focaccia with preserved lemons, and a perfect pickled veggie sando on thick slices of bread (my favorite). They also sell beers from other brewers; try the funky Smelltron 3030 from Santa Rosa’s Cooperage Brewing Co. or the super-refreshing Lavender Radler from Rohnert Park-based Old Caz Beer. 21079 Geyserville Ave., 707-814-0110, cornerprojectales.com. Open noon to 8 p.m. Thursday through Saturday, noon to 3 p.m. Sunday.

Healdsburg

La-Yu from SingleThread Farm: The owners of Healdsburg’s SingleThread restaurant have opened their new Dry Creek Valley farm stand, selling fresh flowers and perfect produce ($6 strawberries, worth every penny), as well as artisan donabe clay cooking pots, handcrafted knives and bespoke dishes used at the restaurant. Don’t miss larder items like Chunky La-Yu (chile oil), barrel-aged ponzu and yuzu kosho, a Japanese condiment made with chiles and citrus. 2836 Dry Creek Road, singlethreadfarms.com. Open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Thursday through Monday.

Wine and pizza at Bacchus Landing: An impressive collection of tasting rooms that feature exceptional wines, including AldenAlli (a collaboration between Dan Kosta of Kosta Browne Winery and celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse), The Setting Wines (vintner Jesse Katz of Aperture Cellars) and Smith Story Wine Cellars (Alison Story). Though Bacchus Landing looks like a faux Tuscan villa, there’s plenty of space to lounge, sip and nibble, with a new wood-fired pizza oven and frequent food trucks and pop-ups, including Black Piglet and Bayou on the Bay. 14210 Bacchus Landing Way, 707-395-0697, bacchuslanding.com. Open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Thursday through Monday.

The Smith Story Wines tasting room at Bacchus Landing in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Smith Story Wines)

Thai at Tuesdays on the Plaza: This relaxed Tuesday gathering with mostly locals features music, arts and our favorite Thai food pop-up, Sangsan. Look for Thai wok omelets and strawberry milk ice from chefs Ploypailin Sakornsin and Jeremy Kuo (both SingleThread alums). Open 5 to 8 p.m. Tuesday on the Healdsburg Plaza and 8:30 a.m. to noon Saturday at the Healdsburg farmers market, sangsanhealdsburg.com.

Monte Rio

Shakshuka at Lightwave Coffee & Kitchen: Located at the Creekside skate park in Monte Rio, this curious little cafe sells smoothies, bagels and Middle Eastern cuisine, including rich, tomato-based shakshuka. Watch for freshly baked desserts and creative specials from owners Ori and Gal Ginzburg. Or just grab a coffee from the walk-up window and watch the gnarly board slides and cringeworthy lip skids. 9725 Main St., 707-865-5169, lightwavecafe.square.site. Open 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.

Petaluma

Strawberries at Stony Point Strawberry Farm Stand: Insiders know this is the spot for the best strawberries. This organic fruit and vegetable farm sells berries still warm from the sun. 735 Stony Point Road, 510-917-0514. Open 8:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily.

Lagunitas Taproom: There’s plenty of fun to be had for humans and dogs at this family-friendly, convivial Petaluma beer garden. The sprawling semi-covered outdoor space has picnic tables for people and plenty of slobbery water bowls for thirsty pooches. Seasonal offerings and tasty grub make it a must. 1280 McDowell Blvd., 707-778-8776, lagunitas.com. Open 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.

Sebastopol

Piggy Punch at Third Pig Bar: This brand-spanking-new bar from the owners of Graton’s Bowman Cellars serves fresh craft cocktails, including the dangerously delicious Piggy Punch made with rum, Swedish Punsch, chicha morada (a purple corn drink), lime and cardamom bitters. They come in piggy cocktail glasses, and you’ll be oinking for more. Classic cocktails like the Mai Tai and Southside (gin, lime, orange bitters and mint) warm the summery, garden-like space. 116 S. Main St., thirdpigbar.com. Open 4 to 10 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday, 4 p.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday.

Singing Frogs Farm at the Sebastopol farmers market: There are so many local farms and farmers markets to love, but this Sunday market has the goods from my favorite permaculture, regenerative, sustainable farms in Sonoma County, including Singing Frogs Farm, a family-run, no-till farm that’s won many awards for its methods. The best of west county is at the Sebastopol market, along with J.E.S. plant-based foods, The Green Grocer and more. 6908 Weeks Way, 707-522-9305, sebastopolfarmmarket.org. Open 10:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. Sunday.

Sonoma

Dinner and a movie at Delicious Dish: Family-safe(ish) cult movies like “Cry Baby” and “Airplane!” pair with a casual patio dinner and plenty of fun at this Sonoma restaurant and catering company. The July 9 dinner (with Johnny Depp as Cry Baby) pays homage to Baltimore with fried green tomato and blue crab melts, Old Bay chips, peach and tomato salad and Baltimore’s famous fudge-iced Berger cookies. 18709 Arnold Drive, 707-721-4231. By reservation only, at deliciousdishsf.com/popup.

Picnic before the show at Transcendence: A night at Jack London State Historic Park watching Broadway stars perform has become a summer tradition. If you’re planning to go, one of the best parts of the evening is the dining experience before the show. You can pack a picnic, but it’s far more fun to grab food from one of several food trucks parked on the grass. Premium picnic table spots can be reserved for $50 when you purchase your tickets. 2400 London Ranch Road, Glen Ellen, 877-424-1414, transcendencetheatre.org.

Windsor

Tea time at Fleur Sauvage Chocolates: After years at farmers markets, Chef Robert Nieto opened his first brick-and-mortar store and kitchen in late 2021. It’s a gourmet dessert wonderland with truffles and cakes from one of the world’s top pastry chefs. Now he and wife Tara have started a Wine Country Tea Time with sweet and savory goodies. 370 Windsor River Road, 707-892-2162, fleursauvagechocolates.com, by appointment only.

Top 10 Camping Spots in Sonoma County

June 2022

By Maci Martell

Glamping tent at the campground at Sugarloaf Ridge State Park. (Sugarloaf Ridge State Park)

Whether you prefer to camp under a canopy of redwoods or near waves crashing on a beach, you’re sure to find your ideal campground in Sonoma County. Click through the above gallery for a few favorite camping spots.

Be sure to check Covid-19 guidelines for campgrounds before your visit.

Brand New Mid-Century Marvel for Sale in Sonoma

June 2022

By Karen Kizer

A masterful new home built in up-to-date, mid-century style is available in Sonoma. The four-bedroom, four-bath, 4,080-square-foot home situated on a hilltop overlooking the Sonoma Valley and San Francisco is available for $9.95 million.

The home’s design by San Francisco-based firm Klopf Architecture embraces mid-century modern tastes to the fullest. This popular design preference doesn’t seem to be going anywhere given our love of seamless indoor/outdoor spaces and the tranquil aesthetic modern designs can offer. Eichler values are fully intact in this design: floor-to-ceiling windows, flat roofs, visible beams and squeaky clean lines with no ornamentation. But a lack of ornamentation doesn’t mean a lack of sumptuousness.

White oak cabinets and Calacatta marble provide rich texture in the kitchen. (Paul Rollins)

The design impact manages to be both strong and subtle. A simply designed cabinet gains its warmth through the rich white oak it’s made from. Calacatta and statuary marbles provide natural but bold accents in the bathrooms and kitchen. Floor-to-ceiling windows just can’t fail on this lot. The sky views at the top of the hill have a dreamy up-in-the-clouds feel.

Staging by Los Angeles-based Meridith Baer Home, with the input of listing agent Ginger Martin, follows through on understated design to achieve maximum beauty. Modern furniture — like armchairs in playful round shapes — adheres strictly to a white, black or tonal palette. Color is used with extreme restraint. There are ribbons of pale blue in a large abstract painting. Produce in dishes successfully serve as the color accents in the single-tone kitchen. The home provides a perfect example of how subtlety can really stun.

Outside, an infinity edge pool keeps the “invisible” aesthetic going. Three repeating wave-shaped lawn chairs with white and gray pillows add a sense of graceful movement and discipline. It’s a bit of an echo to what the architect calls “a rhythmic post and beam design” — referring to the repeating design element along the rear exterior of the home.

Outside, an infinity edge pool keeps the “invisible” aesthetic going. (Paul Rollins)

Landscape by San Francisco-based Arterra Landscape Architects consists of a few plantings chosen for water conservation and fire resistance, according to Martin. The design allows the natural rocky setting to take center stage, while bits of greenery have been added for a subtle sense of lushness. A few rocky outcroppings frame the views and take on the presence of abstract art.

The design takeaway is strong in this home. The concept of “less is more” is very present. It isn’t minimalist, but rather a thoughtful layering of well-designed pieces, exquisite materials and a few playful elements. Sky views don’t hurt either.

This home at 2979 Wood Valley Road is listed by Ginger Martin and Matthew Joseph of Sotheby’s International Realty, 1229 Adams St., St. Helena, 415-516-3939, ginger@gingermartin.com, gingermartin.com.

Petaluma Home Remodeled in an Easy-Breezy Modern Style

June 2022

By Karen Kizer

A sizable home and ADU (2,950 square feet and 1,200 square feet, respectively) with a super-modern meets beachy style is for sale in Petaluma. The dwellings — which together have four bedrooms and four bathrooms — have been renovated into a contemporary style that veers from some of the lovable modern trends we’re seeing right now. It isn’t farmhouse, and it’s not classic mid-century either. The original home was built in 1995 and has been reimagined for living and relaxing according to today’s tastes.

The home has a simple style with the ever-popular whited-out look to give off the calm feel people are craving in today’s busy and visually noisy world. But the tranquility-forward aesthetic has some rich color thrown in. Many stained wood elements are included, such as flooring, bookshelves, kitchen cabinets and furniture.

Elements like aqua-colored dining chairs and multi-colored textiles add vibrant color to the stained woods and white walls of the ADU. (Rob Sullivan – Vanguard Properties)

There are brilliant touches of bright color, too: deep blue tile in the ADU’s kitchen, orange umbrellas outside and a welcome sea-foam-colored paint in the bathroom (hello, ’90s). These elements come together to make an inspired and soothing environment.

When you learn that the homeowners lived in Hawaii, it makes sense that this home would have those satisfying beachy vibes. But there are no clichés here. It’s not all starfish pillows or “sandy feet” signs. The home just borrows the pretty palette of the oceanside for its subdued tropical appearance.

An ADU sits on a second story above the garage offering panoramic views. The design elements are not an afterthought. Details like aqua-colored dining chairs and multi-colored textiles add vibrant color to the stained woods and white walls.

The home’s sparse and tranquil vibes are carried outside to a stone patio with a simple rectangular pool and hot tub combo. (Rob Sullivan – Vanguard Properties)

The sparse and tranquil vibes are carried outside to a simple rectangular pool and spa combo. The bottom of the pool is lined with pebbles that provide a sensory treat for world-weary feet. The black pebble bottom absorbs temperatures well, according to listing agent Rob Sullivan, allowing the pool to heat on its own. Plants grow separated in “islands” — a disciplined look that’s modern both visually and in terms of fire resistance.

The homeowners tended to a variety of details, from a fire-safe steel roof to super-convenient motorized blinds.

All of this living space is priced at $3.2 million.

For more information, contact listing agent Rob Sullivan with Vanguard Properties, 151 Petaluma Blvd. South, Suite 137, Petaluma, 707-772-9171, vanguardproperties.com/agent-17011-Rob-Sullivan.php.

20 Favorite Hikes in Sonoma County

June 2022

By Michael Barnes & Maci Martell

Peri Olsson of Santa Rosa takes her dog Teddy on a walk at Taylor Mountain Regional Park and Open Space Preserve in Santa Rosa. (Alvin Jornada/The Press Democrat)

This article was originally published in January, 2020.

Grab your backpack, fill up the water jug and lace up those boots. It’s time to take a hike! And, if you’re so inclined, sip some wine: in Sonoma County, there are tasting rooms at the end of the trail. (Remember to call wineries in advance to make sure that they are open, to get hike dates and make reservations).

Jenna Fischer contributed to this article.

Chefs Bring Global Cuisine to New Wine and Food Pairing Series

June 2022

By Heather Irwin

Preeti Mistry curates a team of BIPOC women chefs at J Vineyards & Winery. (Courtesy J Vineyards)

At face value, J Vineyards’ summer wine and food pairing experience, “Shifting the Lens,” will showcase three chefs of color (Jenny Dorsey, Preeti Mistry and Shenarri Freeman), pairing their culinary creations and favorite flavor profiles with J Vineyards wines.

But Mistry isn’t a face-value kind of person. An outspoken activist for food justice and inclusion, Mistry used their platform as a Top Chef Season 6 contestant and as a guest on Michelle Obama’s “Waffles + Mochi” Netflix series to spotlight the need for representation of people of color in the food world (Mistry uses the pronouns they/them).

As a new Sonoma County resident and curator of “Shifting the Lens,” Mistry is expanding Wine Country’s narrow vision of wine and food pairing — cheese, charcuterie, European cuisine — to include global ingredients and underrepresented voices.

“We wanted to do something that not only showcased different cuisines with the wine but went beyond that to the deeper meaning behind the pairings,” Mistry said.

The winery says the event will build on its “legacy of growing, evolving and challenging people’s notions on pairing wine with food,” according to the online description of the chefs’ curated tasting menus.

“At J, we believe that learning about how a meal is made, the story behind its ingredients and how the chef’s experience shaped the dish goes beyond culinary knowledge. It broadens our scope and takes us to a place of discovery and connection,” the winery website says. J Vineyards & Winery is owned by E. & J. Gallo.

During Dorsey’s, Mistry’s and Freeman’s monthlong residencies at J Vineyards, each will prepare a five-course tasting menu that will be featured at the winery’s Bubble Room and host a VIP dinner and discussion.

“It’s so rare for chefs like us, BIPOC (Black, Indigenous and people of color) women, to have the platform and stage, cooking the food of our own culture,” Mistry said of the Indian, Chinese and soul food cuisines featured in the series. “People think these might not pair well with wine, but that’s absolutely not true.”

Mistry, who identifies as a queer, first-generation Indian woman, plans to include green garbanzo beans with stone fruit, sprouted mung puri and hibiscus pani along with burnt masala quail with saffron rice and a dessert of saffron cardamom yogurt pudding. Dorsey’s and Freeman’s menus are still in the works.

Dorsey is the founder of Studio ATAO, a nonprofit that advocates for equitable standards in the hospitality industry. Freeman champions plant-based Southern soul food inspired by her family in North Carolina.

All three chefs focus on farm-to-table cuisine, using fresh and local ingredients, but Mistry said the moniker isn’t unique to European cuisine.

“Right now, I’m in a crunch for sourcing (these meals) at local farms. I’m running around to find someone growing parilla and shiso. It’s about dispelling the myth that the only farm-to-table food is European. Where do you think the rest of us get food?” Mistry said.

J Vineyards & Winery's vine-covered Russian River Valley production facility with its 'Bubble Room' and other hospitality suites is part of the sale deal to E&J Gallo. (courtesy of J Vineyards & Winery) — J Vineyards & Winery’s vine-covered Russian River Valley production facility. (Courtesy of J Vineyards & Winery)

While there were more than 10 chefs on the winery’s shortlist for the residency, Mistry said it came down to a handful of people who really inspired them.

“This is part of a larger vision,” Mistry said. The goal is to create mentorships and showcase people who can bring even more impact and change to the community.

Dorsey’s tasting menu will be at the Bubble Room July 7-10 and July 14-17, with a VIP dinner on July 9. Mistry’s tasting menu will be available Aug. 18-21 and Aug. 25-28, with a VIP dinner Aug. 20. Freeman’s tasting menu will be available Sept. 29 through Oct. 2 and Oct. 6-9, with a VIP dinner on Oct. 1. More details at jwine.com.

A Day Trip on the Russian River, Inspired by Guerneville’s Michael Volpatt

June 2022

By Karen Kizer

outside of Big Bottom Market — Outside of Big Bottom Market in Guerneville. (Courtesy Big Bottom Market)

Michael Volpatt, owner of Big Bottom Market, is perhaps best known for his biscuits, which were one of Oprah’s “Favorite Things” a few years back. But Volpatt, a fixture in this tiny Russian River community, has his hands in the mix in many ways beyond making biscuits.

Volpatt co-owns the Equality Vines tasting room across the street from the market, heads up a local PR firm and volunteers at a nearby pig sanctuary. Not to mention that at the beginning of the pandemic, he became the host of a self-produced cooking show, making livestreams of his homemade meals: “I didn’t know what I was going to do. I hadn’t found my pod yet. So I said, ‘I’m going to do what makes me happiest,’ which is to make my mother’s marinara sauce.”

After finishing a day’s work, Volpatt heads to what he calls his gym, nearby Armstrong Woods, where he hikes the redwood trails and does strengthening exercises. But it’s his connection to the people of Guerneville that seems to fuel his boundless energy and interests.

For a Russian River day trip that would make Volpatt proud, check out these favorite stops below in Guerneville and west county.

Big Bottom Market

Volpatt’s market has terrific takeout, cookbooks and foodie gifts, and partners with winemakers to offer bottles that give back to local charities. 16228 Main St., Guerneville, 707-604-7295, bigbottommarket.com

River’s End Restaurant & Inn

Specializing in spectacular sunsets since the 1920s, this restaurant overlooks the spot where the Russian River slips into the ocean. Try hyper-local Dungeness crab ravioli with wild mushrooms. 11048 Highway 1, Jenner, 707-865-2484, ilovesunsets.com

Christopher Queen Galleries

In nearby Duncans Mills, this two-story gallery features rotating exhibits of contemporary artists on the first floor, and, on the second floor, California landscapes from the 1800s and early 1900s. 4 John Orr’s Gardens, Duncans Mills, 707-865-1318, christopherqueengalleries.com

West County Wines

Flambeaux Wines is run by a family from New Orleans that creates bottles to pair with Southern foods like gumbo and shrimp and grits. And Porter-Bass has been farming with biodynamic practices since the 1980s. Both wineries are open by appointment. Flambeaux Wine, 1333 Jack Pine Road, Healdsburg, 707-637-9019, flambeauxwine.com; Porter-Bass, 11750 Mays Canyon Road, Guerneville, 707-869-1475, porter-bass.com

Equality Vines

The Love Wins sparkling wine celebrates the landmark Supreme Court decision that legalized same-sex marriage. 16215 Main St., Guerneville, 877-379-4637, equalityvines.com

When Pigs Fly Ranch

Some very fortunate pigs are living well at this sanctuary on the Russian River. Wesley, an 800-pounder, will roll over for belly rubs. Visits by appointment. whenpigsflyranch.org

Elk Fence Distillery Opens in Santa Rosa

June 2022

By Sarah Doyle

Gail Coppinger, right, and Scott Woodson, owners of Elk Fence Distillery, make Fir Top Gin, The Briny Deep Whiskey and White Elk Vodka in the only distillery in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

When Scott Woodson approached his friend Gail Coppinger to gauge her interest in distilling, Coppinger needed some clarification.

“Distilled water? Perfume? I had no idea he was talking about whiskey,” recalled Coppinger, who was running an organic produce stand at the time.

The two had met years earlier while working as painting contractors. Coppinger, a house shingler by trade, had moved on from contract work when Woodson showed up at her produce stand to talk whiskey. After catching up, they discovered they both were yearning for a new adventure.

“I approached Gail with the idea of starting a distillery because I remembered how well we worked together,” said Woodson, who has been an avid home brewer since the 1990s. “I knew we would make a good team.”

Today, Coppinger and Woodson are the proud owners and distillers of Elk Fence Distillery, the first craft distillery in Santa Rosa. Located in an industrial building off Santa Rosa Avenue, the small-batch distillery produces an American single malt whiskey, a botanical gin and a barley-based vodka, all poured and sold in their recently opened tasting room.

(As for the name, it refers to the fence bordering a field where Woodson once grew barley. On the other side were elk, and he called the area “the elk fence.” The partners thought it a fitting name for their new venture.)

For Coppinger and Woodson, getting to this point was an exercise in patience and determination that brought a new crop of gray hairs. From ideation to first distillation, the process took about five years, which Coppinger compared to “going through a series of brick walls,” from complications with permits to the 2017 Tubbs Fire.

“You hit one brick wall, you figure out how to go through it and then you keep going,” she said. “Because at some point you’ve gone too far forward to go back.”

An old Steinway upright in the Elk Fence Distillery tasting room in Santa Rosa Tuesday, May 24, 2022. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Breaking new ground

To start distilling, Coppinger and Woodson needed to apply for a distilled spirits permit. But before that, they needed to secure a lease on a distillery location.

Unfortunately, with no distilling experience, they found few property owners were willing to give them a chance — especially considering the flammability risk of spirits production. A year and a half later, they were grateful to obtain a location in Santa Rosa that would eventually become the town’s first distillery ever.

Then came the divorce.

The day before Coppinger and Woodson were scheduled to submit their distiller’s permit application, their attorneys called to discuss an urgent matter: tied-house laws.

In simple terms, federal and state tied-house laws prohibit distillers, brewers and winemakers from pressuring bars, restaurants and retailers to buy their alcohol. The laws came into effect after Prohibition, when alcohol beverage producers would often bribe saloons and retailers to sell their products in exchange for low-interest loans, free draft systems and other perks.

At the time, Woodson’s wife, Cat Cowles, worked for Hog Island Oyster Co., a popular oyster bar in Tomales Bay that had two liquor licenses. According to tied-house laws, that was a conflict of interest.

“If we wanted to be approved for our distiller’s permit, I would need to get a divorce!” Woodson said, laughing. “So that night, I broke the news to Cat. Fortunately, she agreed.”

“One of the things I love about Scotty is that he’s very even-tempered,” Coppinger said. “Nothing really rattles him. In that way, we even each other out. That’s one of the reasons our partnership is so strong and solid.”

By the time Coppinger and Woodson were ready to begin building their distillery, it was 2017, the year of the Tubbs Fire.

“When we told the fire department we wanted to build a distillery, they were like, ‘What?’” Coppinger said. “They had no idea how to handle us because there was no historical framework for building a distillery in Santa Rosa. There are numerous distilleries in Sonoma County, but each town has its own rules. So that made things very complicated.”

It would take three years for Coppinger and Woodson to build the distillery, but they forged ahead with determination throughout the process. To support U.S. manufacturing, they bought high-quality American-made equipment for their facility, including two copper Trident stills from Maine, a roller mill from South Dakota, a wort chiller from Arkansas and a boiler from the small town of Wyoming, Illinois.

Under the gaze of the mounted head of an elk purchased on eBay, co-owner Gail Coppinger checks a tank in the production room at Elk Fence Distillery in Santa Rosa Tuesday, May 24, 2022. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

For the tasting room, the pair cleverly transformed a tired office space adjacent to the distillery into a cozy bar beaming with character. Every object here has a story to tell, from the old-growth redwood bar dating to the 1800s, to the upright antique Steinway piano rescued from a basement, to the dark and dreamy wall art obtained at flea markets throughout the state.

Now, after years of delay, the Elk Fence tasting room is finally open for tastings, tours and select artisan cocktails.

The spirits

Elk Fence Distillery produces three core spirits, including a whiskey, a gin and a vodka.

Briny Deep ($140 a bottle), an American single malt whiskey, is made with local barley sourced from Admiral Malts in Alameda and Grizzly Malts in Rohnert Park. Aged for two years in new American white oak from Minnesota, it’s delightfully drinkable for such a young expression. “If you put good stuff in the barrel, it doesn’t take long to age,” Coppinger said.

White Elk ($35 a bottle) is a barley-based vodka that could stand on its own with just ice and a twist of lemon. Distilled only twice, the spirit retains a subtle sweetness with a hint of malt.

Fir Top ($50 a bottle) is a botanical gin made of juniper, coriander, tangerine and grapefruit from San Francisco Herb Co. It’s fresh, citrusy and destined for a gin and tonic with Fever-Tree tonic.

On certain days, Woodson whips up one or more of his inventive cocktails, like the popular Elksicle, with Fir Top gin, fresh tangerine juice, lemon and apricot liqueur.

The Elk Fence Distillery produces, from left, White Elk Vodka, The Briny Deep Whiskey and Fir Top Gin in the only distillery in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Tastings include a complimentary tour, with additional bottles available for purchase. The spirits are also available at Bottle Barn, Willibee’s and in cocktails at Perch and Plow.

Looking forward, Coppinger and Woodson want Elk Fence Distillery to be a gathering spot, where people can listen to music or learn more about the art of distilling. They also hope to offer classes in distilling someday.

“People know how to make beer and wine, but distilling is often under a veil of secrecy. We want to share our knowledge with others,” Woodson said. “Some people call themselves a master distiller, and I just shake my head. You might know a lot, but you’ll never know everything. That’s why we’re always learning and experimenting.”

Tastings from $10, waived with purchase. 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Fridays and by appointment. 464 Kenwood Court, Suite E, Santa Rosa; 415-497-4338, elkfencedistillery.com

You can reach staff writer Sarah Doyle at 707-521-5478 or sarah.doyle@pressdemocrat.com.

5 Destination Restaurants to Visit in Petaluma

June 2022

By Carey Sweet

Dolsot Bibimbap, rice topped with vegetables and fried egg in a sizzling stone pot with beef, with traditional Korean side dishes from Soban Korean in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Hungry for something different? Check out Petaluma’s new restaurants (welcome, Table Culture and Stellina), a wildly inventive destination (you go, Street Social), a cultural gem (Korean in P-Town!) and a wonderful spot coming soon (hello, Costeaux).

Stellina Pronto

If you’ve never had a cornetto, here’s your chance to fall in love with the soft, lighter Italian-style croissant stuffed with goodies like custard, Nutella or jam. Sugar speckled morning buns beckon, too, as does a phyllo-layered raspberry puff anchored by plenty of pastry cream. At lunch, swoop in for the fabulous focaccia sandwiches — the bread is pillowy, golden, chewy, and so crackly on top it almost looks like fried cheese (get it loaded with Grandma Vera’s meatballs, herbed red sauce, fresh basil and melted provolone).

Nutella cornetto filled with the creamy chocolate and hazelnut spread, drizzled with chocolate ganache, and topped with whole toasted hazelnuts, at Stellina Pronto. (Courtesy Stellina Pronto)

Owners Christian Caiazzo and Katrina Fried got their start in Point Reyes, with their Osteria Stellina, so you’ll see accents like Point Reyes Toma cheese or Cowgirl Creamery’s Mt. Tam Triple Cream cheese on a puff pastry with organic local egg and Petaluma’s Caggiano Company ham. That matcha in the frothy tea, though? It comes straight from Kyoto, Japan.

23 Kentucky St., Petaluma, 707-789-9556, stellinapronto.com

Table Culture Provisions

Chef-owners Stéphane Saint Louis and Steven Vargas like to add twists to classic dishes, for extra “pow” on the palate. So commit to a five- or seven-course tasting menu and you’ll find some creative takes, such as grilled asparagus topped in hollandaise, but also umami-rich X.O. sauce and sweet-salty pepitas. Or scallops with snow peas, but also coconut cream. Or homemade Parker House rolls with bone marrow butter, but also ramp powder and leek flowers. It’s haute cuisine, to be sure, but with the chunky block wall building that looks like a renovated auto repair shop, it feels neighborhood casual, too.

312 Petaluma Blvd. S., Petaluma, 707-559-5739, tcprovision.com

Dessert featuring choux glacé, dulce de lèche and chocolate at Table Culture Provisions in Petaluma. (Courtesy of Table Culture Provisions)

Street Social

Menus are revamped every Tuesday, to keep you coming back for new, delicious, mad scientist surprises like chicken liver mousse kicked up with Ethiopian berbere pepper, or gluten-free golden fried chicken plated with charred sprouting cauliflower and Indonesian sambal chile paste. Owners Marjorie Pier and Jevon Martin also have fun with their beverage list, showering it with small production bottlings from Europe (their orange wine is organic, natural Pinot Grigio Kabaj Sivi from Goriška Brda, Slovenia) and, yep, a variety of canned beers.

29 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma, 707-774-6185, streetsocial.social

Soban Korean Cuisine

The dishes can be unfamiliar to many palates: golbaengi-muchim, sea snails tossed with vegetables in a sweet-spicy vinaigrette, or doenjang jjigae, a fermented soybean paste soup, for example. But owners Daniel and Sarah Kim also offer more approachable yet still exciting fare like seafood jeon, a hubcap-size, inch-thick pancake studded with chopped shrimp, scallops, squid and tender vegetables, then skillet-fried to a crisp edge and fluffy interior for dipping in sweet-tangy Korean soy sauce.

Kimchi Jjigae, bottom, spicy homemade kimchi soup with pork and organic tofu, and a side of kimchi from Soban Korean in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

This is real deal cooking, as most entrées come with banchan, the colorful collection of small side dishes that are a Korean signature. Here, we savor rainbow selections of homemade kimchi, plus nibbles like marinated bean sprouts, pickled cucumber, fish cake, turnips with red chile, Korean spinach, crisp ueong (gobo root) and yeongeun (lotus root). For spicy plates, be sure to order a Korean beer or soju (vodka-like rice drink) — it will soothe the burn from the delectable kimchi jjigae, a pork-tofu stew swirled with Korean red chile pepper and kimchi.

255 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma, 707-769-3112, sobanpetaluma.com

Costeaux French Bakery

A landmark for nearly 100 years in Healdsburg, the café will boast an outpost later this summer in the historic Hotel Petaluma on Washington Street. Founded in 1923 and owned by the Seppi family since 1981, the bakery is beloved for its hand-shaped, long-fermented artisanal breads baked on an Italian hearth oven. Over the years, the selection has expanded to include treats like chocolate tortes, fruit-nut tarts, feather light macarons, and elaborate cakes. Stop in, too, for a luxurious breakfast (cinnamon walnut bread pain perdu draped in pure Vermont maple syrup) and lunch (hearty, gooey cheese-capped French onion soup, or chicken panino slathered with tangy lemon cilantro mayo on focaccia).

205 Kentucky St., Petaluma, costeaux.com

Meet the Bay Area Filmmaker Who Makes Short Films for Nonprofits

June 2022

By John Beck

Videographer Jake Viramontez sets up his editing station in his Graton studio. Viramontez started a nonprofit to make fundraising videos for other nonprofit groups. His video on Sebastopol’s Ceres Project inspired Sony to gift him their latest FX3 camera and then hired him to direct up to 10 short films for other nonprofits in their Create Action campaign. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

When Jake Viramontez was a kid growing up in San Jose, he loved watching international spy thrillers, remote adventure films — “anything where people would explore and navigate the globe with confidence.”

“I guess I’m still trying to live out that reality,” he says, only days before flying to Germany for a film shoot. At 34, he’s already been to 54 countries, making both advertising films and short promotions for nonprofits. In 2021, after working in Los Angeles for over a decade, he moved to Graton.

On a whim, Viramontez created Free Exposure, an initiative that offered to make films for nonprofits in need at no cost. He started with a short for Our Own, a Los Angeles nonprofit that helps underserved kids with college prep and business internships.

Changing the name of the initiative to “Sown,” he focused his second film on the Ceres Community Project, a life-altering Sebastopol group that works with teen volunteers to grow and make organic meals for those facing serious illness. The work was screened at this year’s Sonoma International Film Festival and can be seen at ceresproject.org.

Nonprofit storytelling

“As a filmmaker you’re always telling the story of the potential of the human spirit; of our ability to overcome obstacles and to emerge on the other side stronger. That’s the hero’s journey. That’s ‘Star Wars.’ That’s ‘The Odyssey.’ And I think nonprofits live that every single day.”

Biggest challenge

“Asking for money for this initiative. I have no problem raising for other people, and I actually really enjoy it. But I’m really bad at asking for money for Sown.”

The takeaway

“It feels like purpose. It’s why I like the name ‘Sown’ so much, because it feels the way that you would look at a giant oak tree – and go, ‘Wow, that started somewhere.’ And it started as an acorn.”

See and learn more about Jake Viramontez’s work at sownforgood.com.